©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Cancún, & the Yucatán

Cancún & Around p58 p80 Yucatán State & the Maya Heartland p103 p150 Isla Cozumel p90 & Southern Campeche Coast State p133 p207

Chiapas & Tabasco p233

Ashley Harrell, Ray Bartlett, Stuart Butler, John Hecht PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to Cancún, CANCÚN & ISLA COZUMEL. . . . 90 Cozumel & the Yucatán. . . 4 AROUND ...... 58 History...... 91 Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán Map...... 6 Cancún ...... 60 Sights...... 93 Cancún, Cozumel & History...... 60 Activities...... 95 the Yucatán’s Top 16. . . . 8 Sights...... 60 Festivals & Events ...... 98 Need to Know...... 16 Beaches...... 60 Sleeping...... 98 First Time ...... 18 Activities...... 61 If You Like ...... 20 Eating...... 99 Month by Month. . . . . 23 Sleeping...... 62 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . 101 Itineraries ...... 26 Eating...... 65 Entertainment ...... 101 Diving & Snorkeling. . . . 32 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . 70 Shopping...... 101 Exploring Maya Ruins . . . 37 Entertainment ...... 71 Eat & Drink Like Shopping...... 71 RIVIERA MAYA . . . . 103 a Local...... 42 North of Cancún. . . . . 75 Travel with Children. . . . 51 ...... 105 Regions at a Glance. . . . 54 ...... 75 . . . . . 108 ...... 75 ...... 118

POLA DAMONTE VIA GETTY IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES © ...... 119 ISLA MUJERES. . . . 80 Around Tulum ...... 127 History...... 82 ...... 131 Sights...... 82 Beaches...... 82 COSTA MAYA & Activities...... 82 SOUTHERN Sleeping...... 85 CARIBBEAN COAST...... 133 Eating...... 86 Felipe Carrillo Puerto . . . 135 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . 88 ...... 136 PLAYA DEL CARMEN P108 Shopping...... 88 ...... 139 Laguna ...... 140 ...... 143 BONNIEBC/SHUTTERSTOCK © MATTEO COLOMBO/GETTY IMAGES © Corredor Arqueológico. . . 147 Corozal Town ...... 149

DÍA DE MUERTOS P25 CENOTE SUYTUN P199 Contents

UNDERSTAND

YUCATÁN STATE & CAMPECHE STATE. . . 207 Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán Today. . . . 258 THE MAYA Campeche...... 209 HEARTLAND. . . . . 150 History...... 260 Northern Campeche . . . 218 Mérida ...... 151 Yucatecan Pomuch...... 218 Way of Life...... 268 South of Mérida...... 171 Hecelchakán...... 218 The Ancient Maya. . . . 273 ...... 171 Bécal...... 219 Land & Wildlife. . . . . 278 Grutas de Calcehtok . . . .. 171 Hopelchén...... 220 ...... 171 Chenes Sites...... 220 Santa Elena...... 174 Edzná...... 221 ...... 175 Southwestern Coast . . . 223 Ruta Puuc...... 176 Champotón...... 223 Ruinas de Mayapán. . . . 177 Sabancuy...... 224 Cenotes de Cuzamá . . . . 178 Isla Aguada...... 224 Ticul...... 178 Ciudad del Carmen. . . . . 225 SURVIVAL Oxkutzcab...... 180 Southeastern GUIDE Tekax ...... 181 Campeche...... 227 West & North Balamkú...... 227 of Mérida...... 182 Directory A–Z...... 286 ...... 227 Celestún...... 182 Transportation . . . . . 297 Chicanná & Becán. . . . . 229 Dzibilchaltún...... 185 Language...... 304 Xpujil ...... 230 Progreso ...... 185 Index...... 313 Zoh-Laguna...... 231 East of Progreso . . . . . 187 Map Legend...... 319 Río Bec...... 232 Eastern Yucatán State. . . 187 Hormiguero ...... 232 ...... 187 Chichén Itzá ...... 190 & Valladolid...... 197 TABASCO...... 233 Ek’ Balam...... 202 Chiapas ...... 236 Tizimín...... 203 San Cristóbal Río Lagartos...... 204 de las Casas...... 236 SPECIAL El Cuyo...... 205 Around San Cristóbal FEATURES de las Casas...... 244 San Felipe ...... 206 Off the Beaten ...... 245 Track Map ...... 30 , Yaxchilán & the Diving & Snorkeling. . . . 32 Carretera Fronteriza . . . . 250 Exploring Maya Ruins. . . 37 Tabasco ...... 253 Yucatán Peninsula Cenotes...... 166 Villahermosa...... 254 3D Chichén Itzá. . . . . 190 Comalcalco...... 255 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 26 NATALIYA HORA/GETTY IMAGES ©

Plan Your Trip Itineraries

•# Cancn QUINTANA

ROO É

YUCATÁN

•# Puerto

Morelos É Playa del Carmen

•#

É É É

•# É •# Cob Isla Coumel Gran

É Cenote É •#

É

•# Tulum

1 WEEK Cancún & the Riviera Maya

After a day or two in Cancún, make your The road from Cancún to Cobá is way south about 30km and stop in Puerto chock-full of surprises. Along the way Morelos to duck out to the beach, browse you’ll find fun-filled cenotes (limestone for handmade crafts and get in some snor- sinkholes), astonishing Maya ruins and keling or diving. sweet little beach towns with sugar- Next, spend a little time beach-­ white sands. bumming and partying in uberchic Playa del Carmen, a large city with a dizzying Get things started with a dip in the sap- array of restaurants, bars and discos. phire waters along the Zona Hotelera Playa, as it’s called, is a good jumping- (hotel zone) of Cancún or hit the secluded off point for Isla Cozumel, where you can beaches north of downtown on Isla Blanca, enjoy some of the best diving in the world, then return to town for dinner, drinks and quiet beaches on the island’s windswept perhaps some salsa dancing. side and a pleasant town plaza. Frequent ferries run between Playa and Cozumel. 27 PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN It i nerar i es

Puerto Morelos (p105)

Back on the mainland, you’ll definitely and marvel at jungle ruins connected by want to make time for Tulum, where ancient paths. Stop for lunch at a lakeside Maya ruins are perched atop a spectacular restaurant in Cobá, then on the way back cliff overlooking the Mexican Caribbean. to Tulum, drop by the Gran Cenote for a While at the site, take the stairs down to swim or snorkel in a large sinkhole with the beach and have a refreshing swim to small fish. cool off. Stay the night in Tulum’s town, This easy 170km trip stays close to where the main drag is lined with hap- Cancún and there’s frequent transport to pening bars and restaurants, or head 3km all of these destinations, or you can just south to the coast and get a bungalow in rent a car. Tulum’s hip and happening Zona Hotelera. With an early start, take off for the Maya ruins of Cobá (find the road to Cobá at Tulum’s north end). Once inside this archaeological site, rent a bicycle 28 PE3K/SHUTTERSTOCK © 10 DAYS Maya Country

The architectural and artistic achievements of the Maya are prominently displayed PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN across the peninsula. Though the ancient cities are long abandoned, the Maya people and their traditions are still very present. One can spend weeks, even months, visiting all the ruins, archaeological museums and small Maya towns. It

i For background, visit the shiny Museo Maya nerar de Cancún in the heart of the Zona Hotelera in Cancún, where admission includes access to adjoining Maya ruins. i es Hit the road the next day and spend a day or two in the colonial town of Valladolid, a former Maya ceremonial center with a climbable pyra- mid near the town square. For some respite from your Maya itinerary, drop by Cenote X’Kekén y Samulá on your way out of town and take a plunge into a spectacular limestone cavern pool. Next set aside a day for Chichén Itzá, a Maya archaeological site that was named one of the ‘new seven wonders of the world.’ Get an early start to beat the tour-bus crowds. Head slightly further south for a bird-watching or cultural tour with Yucatán Jay Expeditions & Tours in their local community. A route then leads to Oxkutzcab and Tekax, offering glimpses of traditional Maya life. While in Oxkutzcab, check out the nearby Grutas de Loltún, the largest cave system on the peninsula. JOHN MITCHELL/ALAMY STOCK © The following day move on to Santa Elena, which makes a fine base for exploring the

impressive ruins of Uxmal, Kabah and several #• Cancún other archaeological sites tucked away in the É Chichén Valladolid

rolling Puuc hills. Itzá #•#• Uxmal É #• After crossing the Yucatán-Campeche border, Cenote X'Kekén y Samulá #• #• Santa Elena #• #• Oxkutzcab stop at , where in a nearby village, É

Hopelchén #• Tekax

É you can see the tradition of beekeeping. Campeche #• É #• Grutas de Loltún Make your way to the walled city of Campe- #• Hopelchén che, a good base for visiting Edzná, a formi- Edzná dable Maya site with a five-story temple. The peninsula’s south harbors numerous fascinating É but scarcely visited remnants of classic ensconced in the vast Reserva de la

#•Reserva de la Biosfera Calakmul. É Biosfera Calakmul Extend your explorations for several days to the ruins of Palenque and the contemporary Palenque #•

Maya domain of San Cristóbal de las Casas, É eIe both in Chiapas. ateaa San Cristóbal #• Most destinations on this route are reach- de las Casas eI able by bus or shared transport vehicles, but for Top: Grutas de Loltún (p176) some you’ll need to hire a car, taxi or go with a Bottom: mask, Museo Maya de Cancún (p60) tour operator. 29 10 DAYS Maya Country

The architectural and artistic achievements of the Maya are prominently displayed PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN across the peninsula. Though the ancient cities are long abandoned, the Maya people and their traditions are still very present. One can spend weeks, even months, visiting all the ruins, archaeological museums and small Maya towns. It

For background, visit the shiny Museo Maya i de Cancún in the heart of the Zona Hotelera in nerar Cancún, where admission includes access to adjoining Maya ruins. i Hit the road the next day and spend a day or es two in the colonial town of Valladolid, a former Maya ceremonial center with a climbable pyra- mid near the town square. For some respite from your Maya itinerary, drop by Cenote X’Kekén y Samulá on your way out of town and take a plunge into a spectacular limestone cavern pool. Next set aside a day for Chichén Itzá, a Maya archaeological site that was named one of the ‘new seven wonders of the world.’ Get an early start to beat the tour-bus crowds. Head slightly further south for a bird-watching or cultural tour with Yucatán Jay Expeditions & Tours in their local community. A route then leads to Oxkutzcab and Tekax, offering glimpses of traditional Maya life. While in Oxkutzcab, check out the nearby Grutas de Loltún, the largest cave system on the peninsula. The following day move on to Santa Elena, which makes a fine base for exploring the

impressive ruins of Uxmal, Kabah and several #• Cancún other archaeological sites tucked away in the É Chichén Valladolid

rolling Puuc hills. Itzá #•#• Uxmal É #• After crossing the Yucatán-Campeche border, Cenote X'Kekén y Samulá #• #• Santa Elena #• #• Oxkutzcab stop at , where in a nearby village, É

Hopelchén #• Tekax

É you can see the tradition of beekeeping. Campeche #• É #• Grutas de Loltún Make your way to the walled city of Campe- #• Hopelchén che, a good base for visiting Edzná, a formi- Edzná dable Maya site with a five-story temple. The peninsula’s south harbors numerous fascinating É but scarcely visited remnants of classic Maya civilization ensconced in the vast Reserva de la

#•Reserva de la Biosfera Calakmul. É Biosfera Calakmul Extend your explorations for several days to the ruins of Palenque and the contemporary Palenque #•

Maya domain of San Cristóbal de las Casas, É eIe both in Chiapas. ateaa San Cristóbal #• Most destinations on this route are reach- de las Casas eI able by bus or shared transport vehicles, but for some you’ll need to hire a car, taxi or go with a tour operator. 30 Off the Beaten Track Cancún Cozumel Yucatan

DLAM DE RA & SAA CLARA t PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN G u l f o f mañana Progreso M e x i c o Sisal MÉRIDA

KCA Celestún Umán

OFF T H E Ticul Bécal B Oxkutzcab Bolonchén B de Rejón

EATEN Campeche Hopelchén Santa SAA RSA AMPAK Rosa

TRA Dzibalchén t Champotón Xmaben

CK Puerto Real EL TIGRE Ciudad del Río San P Xpujil Carmen Escárcega

Comalcalco edro La Venta Candelaria Cárdenas Villahermosa Reforma Catazajá Emiliano Zapata Teapa Tenosique Pichucalco Palenque

R ío Gri j al Ocozocoautla va Soyalo Ocosingo Frontera Corozal San Cristóbal Bethel Tuxtla Chiapa de las Casas Juiquipilas Gutiérrez de Corzo Amatenango del Valle M E X I C O Arriaga Comitán Tonalá Puerto Arista G U A T E M A L A Boca del Cielo Pijijiapan EL RE

Mapastepec s Escuintla I Huixtla Tuxtla Chico P A C I F I C Tapachula H C O C E A N C a Ciudad t Hidalgo 31

km miles

R LAARS RÍO LAGARTOS a Dzilam de

San Bravo TRIP YOUR PLAN Crisanto Chiquilá I Santa Clara Cancún Tizimín Izamal Puerto Kantunil Morelos Cuzamá Playa del Valladolid Carmen San Miguel

de Cozumel OFF T H E

Tulum PA ALLE Santa Rosa B PUNTA ALLEN EATEN Felipe Carrillo Puerto TRA PUNTA HERRERO

M E X I C O CK Nohbec PA ERRER a DZIBANCHÉ Mahahual C s Chetumal s K I CENOTES MIGUEL Xcalak COLORADO C A R I B B E A N S E A DAC t I

CEES MEL B E L I Z E CLRAD a C s

H O N D U R A S ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 311

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy.

for joining me whenever possible. Huge thanks OUR READERS to Sarah Stocking for the editorial wisdom and Many thanks to the travelers who used the advice, to my co-author John, and the rest of last edition and wrote to us with helpful the LP staff. To all people I met or who helped hints, useful advice and interesting anec- me along the way, especially Naomi, Vivian, dotes: Odile, Ale, Eziquiel, Fabiola, Selena, Yuli, Alex, and so many others. Thanks so much. Can’t Kirsten Aitken, Sieska Bervoets-Martens, Ryan wait to be back again soon. Crawford-Emery, Rikke Hald, Anna Iwanek, Liv Kirk, Patrice Racine, Madeline Ravesloot, Jimmy Seymour, Ellen van Steen, Karen Wallace, Ken Woods John Hecht Very special thanks to Jesus Navarrete, Ursula Reischl, Chicken Willy, destination editor Sarah WRITER THANKS Stocking, co-author Ray Bartlett and to all the Ashley Harrell quintanarooenses for their generous support I’d like to thank a few wonderful people (and and the good times. As always, my heartfelt one enthusiastic dog) for accompanying me gratitude to Lau for taking care of the kitties through various parts of Mexico. Stacey Auch and everything else. and Erin Morris, let us be friends and road-trip warriors forever. Amy Guthrie, Carlos Andrade, Savannah and Nico, you are fabulous hosts and ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS people. Adam Williams and Isabella Cota, we’ll Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, always have Patrick Miller. Matt Levin, you’re a Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated joy to eat tacos with. And Dad, you’re a gentle- World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate man and a champion. Love you. Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44. Ray Bartlett Chichén Itzá illustration pp190–1 by Michael Thanks first and always to my family and Weldon friends, for letting me go on these adventures Cover photograph: El Castillo, Chichén Itzá, and still remembering me when I get back, or Vincent St Thomas/Alamy © 312 BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND

tions by Mauricio Velázquez Book Designers Brooke THIS BOOK de León. This guidebook was Giacomin, Jessica Rose This 8th edition of Lonely produced by the following: Assisting Editors Judith Planet’s Cancún, Cozumel & Destination Editor Bamber, Samantha Cook, the Yucatán guidebook was Sarah Stocking Barbara Delissen, Andrea curated by Ashley Harrell and Senior Product Editors Dobbin, Alison Morris, Lauren researched and written by Vicky Smith, Grace Dobell O’Connell Ray Bartlett, Stuart Butler Regional Senior Assisting Cartographer and John Hecht. The previous Cartographer Michael Garrett edition was researched and Corey Hutchison Cover Researcher written by John Hecht and Brendan Dempsey-Spencer Lucas Vidgen with contribu- Product Editors Hannah Cartmel, Ross Taylor Thanks to Vicky Smith ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 313

Index

A Dzibilchaltún 185 Yaxchilán 253 Playa Garrafón 82 accessible travel 286 Edzná 221-3, 222 Zona Arqueológica El Playa Norte 82 accommodations 18, 286-8, Ek’ Balam 202 Rey 60 Playa Norte (Ciudad del see also individual El Castillo 192 architecture Carmen) 225 locations El Castillo Real 95 books 275 Playa Palancar 93 children 52 El Cedral 93 colonial 21-2 Playa Secreto 82 language 304-5 El Palomar 174 Maya 275-7 Punta Coco 75 activities 288, see also El Tigre 228 art galleries, see museums Punta Esmeralda 109 canoeing & kayaking, Gran Juego de Pelota 193 IK Lab 120 Punta Laguna 128 diving & snorkeling, Gran Pirámide 173 Museo de Arte Popular de Punta Mosquito 75 horseback riding, Yucatán 155 kitesurfing, paddleboard- Grupo de las Mil Tankah 128 ing, surfing, swimming, Columnas 194 Museo Fernando García Bécal 219-20 Ponce-Macay 151-4 zip-lining Grutas de Becán 229-30 agriculture 278 Balankanché 195 Museo Subacuático de beer 47, 105 Arte 61 air travel 53, 297-8 Hormiguero 232 beekeeping 224, 269 Palacio de Gobierno 154 Aké 179 Isla Cerritos 206 148 arts 22, see also crafts, Kabah 175-6 Akumal 118-19 literature, music bicycling 302-3 Kinich-Kakmó 188 alcohol 47 Atasta Peninsula 225 Chetumal 143 Kinich-Ná 148 aluxes 107 ATMs 292 Mérida 157 amber 243 La Venta 256 Playa del Carmen 111 animals 279-81, see also Labná 177 San Cristóbal de las individual species Loltún 176 B Casas 241 ants 130 Malpasito 256 Bahías de Punta Tulum 121 aquariums 109 Mayapán 177-8 Solimán 128 birds & bird-watching archaeological sites 20, Oxkintok 171 Balamkú 227 279-80 37-41, 230 Palacio del balché 47 books 279 Balamkú 227 Gobernador 172 ball courts 270 Isla Contoy 75 Becán 229-30 Palenque 245-50, 246 Casa de las Tortugas 174 Laguna Bacalar 140 Bonampak 252-3 Plan de Ayutla 252 Cobá 130 Reserva de la Biosfera Ría Calakmul 227-9 Río Bec 232 Cuadrángulo de las Celestún 183-4 Monjas 172 Casa de la Vieja 174 San Miguelito 60 San Felipe 206 Gran Juego de Pelota 193 Casa de las Tortugas 174 Santa Rita 149 Valladolid 199 Palenque 247 Casa del Adivino 173 Santa Rosa boat travel 298-9, 299 Chicanná 229-30 Xtampak 220-1 bargaining 19 boat trips bathrooms 295 Chichén Itzá 15, 190-7, 177 Laguna Bacalar 140 193, 15, 190-1 Tohcok 221 beaches Río Lagartos 204 251 Toniná 251 Bahías de Punta body artists 147 Solimán 128 Cobá 11, 128-31, 129, 11 Tulum ruins 10, 120-1, Bonampak 252-3 Cancún 60-1 Comalcalco 256 120, 10 books 258 Capitán Dulché 82 Cuadrángulo de las Uxmal 171-4, 173 architecture 275 El Cielo 94 Monjas 172 Xcambó 187 bird-watching 279 Isla Holbox 75 Dzibanché 147-8 177 history 261, 263, 266, 267 Isla Mujeres 82 Xpujil 230-1 Maya 261, 263, 267, 269, Mahahual 137 Yamil Lu’um 60 273, 275, 276 Playa Bonita 213-14 border crossings 148, 298 Map Pages 000 Playa del Carmen 109 breweries 105 Photo Pages 000 314 budgeting 17, 287, 289 Grutas de X’tacumbilxu- children, travel with 22, departures taxes 298 bus travel 299-300, 303 na’an 221 51-3 Día de Muertos 25, 24 business hours 17, 292-3 celestial plan 277 chilis 44 Díaz, Porfirio 266 Celestún 13, 182-5, 13 chocolate 44 disabilities, travelers cell phones 16, 294 churches & cathedrals with 286 C cenotes 9, 112, 167, 279, Catedral de Nuestra diving & snorkeling 20, Calakmul 12, 227-9, 12 INDEX INDEX 166-7 Señora de la Purísima 32-6 Campeche 14, 56, 209-18, Aktun-Ha 128 Concepción 209 Akumal 118 210-11, 14 Cenote Angelita 120 Catedral de San Ilde- Cancún 61 Campeche State 207-32, fonso 154 B-F Cenote Azul (Laguna Isla Cozumel 33, 96-8  208 Iglesia de Jesús 154 Bacalar) 140-1 Isla Mujeres 82-5 accommodations 207 Iglesia de San Antonio  Cenote Azul (Playa del Mahahual 137 climate 207 de Padua 178 Carmen) 112 Playa del Carmen 109-11 food 43-4, 207 Iglesia de San Francisco Cenote de Yokdzonot 179 Puerto Morelos 105 highlights 208 de Asis 181, 219 Cenote Kikil 203 Punta Allen 131-2 travel seasons 207 Iglesia La Mejorada 155 Cenote Manatí 128 safety 36 Cancún 15, 54, 60-74, , San Juan Bautista 182 59 Cenote Sagrado 194 Tulum 120-1 62, 66, 15 Templo de San Ber- Cenote Santa nardino 199 Xcalak 139 accommodations 58, Barbara 178 Templo de San Juan 245 dolphins 131-2, 225 62-5, 68 Cenote Suytun 199 Templo & Exconvento de Dos Ojos 112, 167, 166 activities 61 Cenote X’Kekén y Los Santos Reyes 203 drinking water 290 beaches 60-1 Samulá 199 Templo & Ex-Convento drinks 46-7 climate 58 Cenote Zací 199, 8-9 de Santo Domingo de language 305-6 day trips 64 Choo-Ha 130 Guzmán 237-40 driver’s licenses 300 drinking Cristalino Cenote 112 Ciudad del Carmen 225-7 & nightlife 70-1 driving, see car travel Cuzamá 167, 178, 167 climate 16, 23-5 entertainment 71 driving tours 84, 84 diving & snorkeling 34 climate change 297 food 58, 65-70 DVDs 286 Dos Ojos 112, 167, 166 Cobá 11, 128-31, 129, 11 highlights 59 Dzibilchaltún 185 Dzibilchaltún 185 cochinita pibil 163 information 72-3 Dzitnup 167, 199, 166 Dzitnup 167, 199, 166 colectivos 303 orientation 72 El Tigre 228 Comalcalco 255-6 resorts 68 Gran Cenote 128, 167, combis 303 E safety 61, 72 35, 166-7 consulates 288-9 economy 258-9 shopping 71-2 Hacienda San Lorenzo Corozal Town 149 ecotourism 76, 282 sights 60 Oxman 199 Corredor Arqueológico Edzná 221-3, 222 tours 61 Ik Kil Parque Eco- 147-9 Ek’ Balam 202-3 travel seasons 58 Arqueológico 195-6 Costa Maya 55, 133-49, El Cuyo 206 travel to/from 73 Miguel Colorado 228 134 El Tigre 228 travel within 73-4 Multún-Ha 130 accommodations 133 electricity 288 canoeing & kayaking Tamcach-Ha 130 climate 133 embassies 288-9 Isla Holbox 75 X’Canché Cenote 203 food 133 emergencies 17 Laguna Bacalar 140 Zacil-Ha 128 highlights 134 language 306 Laguna Milagros 143 Chaltún Há 188 travel seasons 133 Emiliano Zapata 251 Playa del Carmen 112 Champotón 223-4 courses 288 endangered species 281 car travel 300-2 Chetumal 143-7, 144 cooking 157 environmental issues 272, Carnaval 23, 98, 143, 159 Chiapa de Corzo 251 language 105, 111-12, 282, 283-4, 297 caste war 183, 265-6 Chiapas 56, 236-53, 234-5 135, 157 etiquette 19 cathedrals, see churches & accommodations 233 crafts 22, 165 events, see festivals & cathedrals activities 251 crocodiles 280 events caves climate 233 Cuauhtémoc 188 exchange rates 17 Aktun Chen 108 food 44, 233 culture 268-72 Grutas de highlights 234 currency 16, 292 Balankanché 195 F people 237 Cuzamá 167, 178, 167 Grutas de Calcehtok 171 farms 82 travel seasons 233 cycling, see bicycling Grutas de Loltún 176 Felipe Carrillo Puerto 135-6 Chicanná 229-30 festivals & events 23-5, Chichén Itzá 15, 190-7, 193, see also individual D locations 15, 190-1 dance 121, 272 Map Pages 000 Carnaval 23, 98, 143, 159 chikungunya virus 289-90 dangers, see safety Photo Pages 000 Día de Muertos 25, 24 dengue fever 289-90 315 Feria de San Cristóbal Caste War, the 265-6 Isla Mujeres 12, 54, 80-9, libraries 209 24, 24 Independence 265 81, 83, 12 literature 271 Mérida Fest 23 Itzáes 262-3 accommodations 80, local experiences 87 Río Lagartos 205 Maya 260-2 85-6 Semana Santa 159 Mennonites 214 activities 82-5 Vernal Equinox 23 beaches 82 M Mexican Revolution Mahahual 136-9 filming 293 266-7 climate 80 INDEX malaria 290 films 258-9, 271 oil production 267 drinking & nightlife 88 Maní 179 fishing Olmec civilization 260 driving tours 84 mangroves 280 Akumal 118 pirates 213 food 80, 86-8  F-M maps 291-2 Punta Allen 131-2 Spanish conquest & highlights 81  markets Río Lagartos 204 colonization 263-4 information 88-9 Campeche 217 San Felipe 206 Toltecs 262 shopping 88 Cancún 71, 72 Xcalak 139 267 sights 82 Isla Cozumel 100 flamingos 183, 183-4, 204, hitchhiking 302 travel seasons 80 Isla Holbox 77 13, see also birds & holidays 293 travel to/from 89 Isla Mujeres 87 bird-watching honey 224, 269 travel within 89 Mérida 154 food 9, 22, 42-6, 289, 9, Hopelchén 220 itineraries 26-31 Puerto Morelos 107 42-3 Hormiguero 232 Izamal 187-90 Valladolid 201 children 52-3 horseback riding Iztamatul 188 cooking courses 157 Chetumal 143 Maya 181, 273-7, see also archaeological language 48-50, 305-6 Isla Cozumel 96 J sites Fortress (Laguna Isla Holbox 75 jaguars 280 architecture 275-7 Bacalar) 140 Playa del Carmen 111 jipijapas 220 astronomy 277 huipiles 272 body art 147 G hurricanes 279 books 261, 263, 267, 269, gardens, see parks & K 273, 275, 276 Kabah 175-6 gardens calendar 277 I kayaking, see canoeing & gay travelers 291 codices 264, 266 immigration 297 kayaking geography 278-9 community-based indigenous peoples 237 Kimbilá 188 golf 96 tourism 76 insurance 291, 300 kitesurfing 121, 206 Gran Cenote 128, 167, 35, internet access 291 community-based tours 166-7 135, 199 internet resources 17 Grutas de Calcehtok 171 history , 260-2 Isla Aguada 224-5 L Grutas de Loltún 176 La Rutas de los language 268, 308 Isla Cerritos 206 guayaberas 272 Conventos 179 museums 60, 109, 135, Isla Contoy 14, 75, 14 Lacandone people 237 143, 155, 185, 212, Isla Cozumel 13, 55, 90- Lacandón Jungle 254 213, 219 102, 91, 92, 94, 13 H Lacanjá Chansayab 251 people 181 haberno chilis 44 accommodations 90, Lagos de Montebello 251 Popol Vuh 274 Habuk 188 98-9 Laguna Bacalar 11, 140- religion 270-1, 273-5 haciendas activities 95-8 2, 11 Mayapán 177-8 Hacienda Granada 161 climate 90 Laguna de Términos 226 measures 286 Hacienda La Luz 256 diving & snorkeling 33, Laguna Milagros 143 Mennonites 214 Hacienda Mundaca 82 96-8 Laguna Miramar 251 Mérida 11, 151-71, 156-7, Hacienda Real de drinking & nightlife 101 Laguna Rosada 187 11, 21 Salinas 182 entertainment 101 Landa, Friar Diego de 264 accommodations 159-62 Hacienda San Lorenzo festivals & events 98 activities 157 Oxman 199 food 90, 99-100 languages 16, 19, 304-8 courses 157 Hacienda Santa Rosa 161 highlights 91 courses 105, 111-12, 135, 157 day trips 170 hammocks 168 information 101-2 food 48-50 drinking & nightlife 164 health 289-91 shopping 101 Spanish 304-7 entertainment 164 children, travel with 52 sights 93-5 useful phrases 19 festivals & events 159 Hecelchakán 218-19 travel seasons 90 Yucatec Maya 308 food 162-4 henequén 161, 168 travel to/from 102 Le Bazaar 78 information 168 hepatitis A 289 travel within 102 leaf-cutter ants 130 sights 151-7 history 260-7 Isla de Pájaros 225 legal matters 291 tours 157-9 books 261, 263, 266, 267 Isla Holbox 10, 75-9, 10 LGBTIQ+ travelers 291 travel to/from 168-70 travel within 170-1 316 meteorites 261 N itineraries 26-31 San Felipe 206 mobile phones 16, 294 national parks & reserves travel seasons 16, 23-5 San Juan Chamula 244-5 monasteries 188 20-1, 282-3, see also plants 282 Santa Elena 174-5 money 16, 17, 288, 292 parks & gardens Playa del Carmen 14, 108- Selva Lacandona 254 motorcycle travel 300-2 Parque Nacional Isla 18, 110, 14 Síijil Noh Há 135 museums, see also art Contoy 14, 75, 14, 21 accommodations 112-14 smoking 286

INDEX INDEX galleries Parque 94 activities 109-11 snorkeling, see diving & Casa de los Venados 199 Reserva de la Biosfera El beaches 109 snorkeling Casa de Montejo 151 Triunfo 251 courses 111-12 Southern Caribbean Coast, Reserva de la Biosfera La M- Centro Cultural y drinking & nightlife 115 see Costa Maya  Encrucijada 251 T Artesanal 188 festivals & events 112 Spanish language 304-7  Choco-Story 174 Reserva de la Biosfera spider monkeys 280 Pantanos de Centla food 114-15 Dzibilchaltún 185 sports 270 256 safety 115-17 Gran Museo del Mundo surfing 96 Reserva de la Biosfera shopping 115 Maya 155 Ría Celestún 183-4 sights 109 swimming 21 Museo Arqueológico de Reserva de la Biosfera tours 112 Aktun-Ha 128 Campeche & Fuerte de Sian Ka’an 132 travel to/from 117-118 Cenote Azul (Laguna San Miguel 213 Bacalar) 140-1 newspapers 286 travel within 117-18 Museo Arqueológico del Cenote Manatí 128 Camino Real 219 numbers 305 politics 258-9 Cenote X’Kekén y Pomuch 218 Museo de Arte Popular Samulá 199 de Yucatán 155 Popol Vuh 274 O Cenote Zací 199, 8-9 Museo de la Arquitectura Ocosingo 251 population 259, 269-70 Maya 212 Cobá 130 off the beaten track 30-2 postal services 293 Museo de la Ciudad 154 El Corchito 185 opening hours 17, 292-3 Progreso 185-7 Museo de la Cultura Gran Cenote 128 Oxkintok 171 public holidays 293 Maya 143 Hacienda San Lorenzo Oxkutzcab 180-2 Puerto Morelos 105-8, 27 Museo de la Guerra de Oxman 199 Punta Allen 131-2 Castas 183 Laguna Bacalar 140 Punta Laguna 127-8 Museo de Naturaleza y P Laguna Yal-Kú 118 Arqueología 227 paddleboarding 85 Playa del Carmen 112 Museo de San Roque 199 palaces 154 Q Puerto Morelos 105 Museo del Ámbar de Palenque 245-50, 246 food 43 Zacil-Ha 128 Chiapas 240 parks & gardens Museo del Archivo Gen- Jardín Botánico Dr eral de Estado 210 R T Alfredo Barrera religion 259, 270-1, 273-5 Tabasco 56, 253-6, 234-5 Museo del Cacao 240 Marín 105 reserves, see national accommodations 233 Museo El Palacio 210 Jardín Botánico Xmuch parks & reserves activities 256 Museo Frida Kahlo Haltún 212 resorts 68 climate 233 Riviera Maya 109 Parque la Ceiba 109 Río Bec 232 food 233 Museo Maya de Cancún Parque Santa Lucía 154 60, Río Lagartos 204-6 highlights 234 28 Parque-Museo La Museo Maya Santa Cruz Venta 254 Riviera Maya 55, 103-32, travel season 233 Xbáalam Naj 135 Punta Sur 82 104 talking cross 266 Museo Regional de accommodations 103 Síijil Noh Há 135 taxes 292, 298 Antropología 254-5 climate 103 passports 297 taxis 303 Museo Subacuático de food 103 Tekax 182 Arte 61, photography 272, 293 36 highlights 104 Tekit 179 Museo Victoriano pirates 213 travel seasons 103 Telchac Puerto 187 Nieves 225 planning, see also indi- Ruta Puuc 176-7 telephone services 294-5 Na Bolom 237 vidual locations temascal 276 Palacio Cantón 155 budgeting 17 theme parks 108 Parque-Museo La calendar of events 23-5 S Venta 254 Cancún, Cozumel & the Sabancuy 224 Ticul 178-80 Santa Elena Museum 175 Yucatán basics 16-17 safety 293-4 183 music 271-2 Cancún, Cozumel & the Cancún 61, 72 time 16, 295 Yucatán regions 54-6 children, travel with 52 language 307 children, travel with diving & snorkeling 36 tipping 19, 292 22, 51-3 Palenque 249 Tixkokob 179 first time 18-19 San Cristóbal de las Casas Tizimín 203-4 Map Pages 000 internet resources 17 Photo Pages 000 236-44, 238-9 Tohcok 221 317 toilets 295 typhoid fever 290 Golondrinas 252 Y tourist information 295 Tzeltale people 237 Cascada Welib-Já 252 Yaxchilán 253 tours Tzotzile people 237 Misol-Ha 251 Yucatán State 56, 150-206, Campeche 214 weather 16, 23-5 152-3 Cancún 61 websites 17 U accommodations 150 Celestún 183-4 Uaymitún 187 weights 286 activities 179 INDEX INDEX Chiapas 252 universities 155 whale sharks 75, 77, 10 climate 150 Mérida 157-9 wildlife reserves, see na- Uxmal 171-4, 173 food 43, 150 Playa del Carmen 112 tional parks & reserves highlights 152 Río Lagartos 204 wildlife-watching, see travel seasons 150  T-Z birds & bird-watching,  San Cristóbal de las V Yucatec Maya 308 Casas 240-1 vacations 293 individual species Tulum 121-2 Valladolid 198-202, 198, women travelers 296 Valladolid 200 28-9 World Heritage sites Z zika virus 290-1 traditional dress 272 Vernal Equinox 23 Calakmul 227-9 zip-lining travel to/from Cancún, Villahermosa 254-5 Campeche 14, 56, 209- Cozumel & the Yucatán visas 16, 295-6 18, 210-11, 14 Cobá 130-1 297-9 volunteering 111, 296 Chichén Itzá 15, 190-7, Playa del Carmen 112 travel within Cancún, 193, 15, 190-1 Puerto Morales 105 Cozumel & the Yucatán Palenque 245-50, 246 Riviera Maya 108 17, 299-303 W Uxmal 171-4, 173 Zacil-Ha 128 walking tours 116, Tulum 119-27, 122 116 Zoh-Laguna 231-2 water, drinking 290 Tulum ruins 10, 120-1, zoos 105 120, 10 water park 61 X turtles 82 waterfalls Xcalak 139-40 TV 286 Cascada de las Xpujil 230-1 318 NOTES ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 319

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkeling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Eating Subway/Subte station Glacier Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Tram Park/Forest Cafe Underground station Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Entertainment Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Ashley Harrell After a brief stint selling day-spa coupons door-to-door in South Florida, Ashley decided she’d rather be a writer. She went to journalism grad school, convinced a newspaper to hire her, and started covering wildlife, crime and tourism, some- times all in the same story. Fueling her zest for storytelling and the unknown, she traveled widely and moved often, from a tiny NYC apartment to a vast California ranch to a jungle cabin in Costa Rica, where she started writing for Lonely Planet.

Ray Bartlett Yucatán State & the Maya Heartland, Campeche State Ray has been travel writ- ing for nearly two decades, bringing Japan, Korea, Mexico, Tanzania, , Indonesia and many parts of the United States to life in rich detail for top-industry publishers, newspapers and magazines. His acclaimed debut novel, Sunsets of Tulum, set in the Yucatán, was a Midwest Book Review 2016 Fiction pick. Among other pursuits, he surfs regularly and is an accomplished tango dancer.

Stuart Butler Chiapas & Tabasco Stuart has been writing for Lonely Planet for a decade, and during this time he’s come eye to eye with gorillas in the Congolese jungle, met a man with horns on his head who could lie in fire, huffed and puffed over snow- bound Himalayan mountain passes, interviewed a king who could turn into a tree, and had his fortune told by a parrot. When not on the road he lives in South- west France with his wife and two young children

John Hecht Cancún & Around, Isla Mujeres, Isla Cozumel, Riviera Maya, Costa Maya & the Caribbean Coast Los Angeles native John has contributed to more than a dozen Lonely Planet guidebooks and trade publications, mostly focused on Mexico and Central America. He is also a published food and entertainment writer. He head- ed down Mexico way more than two decades ago and he’s still livin’ the Mexican dream in his adopted home of Mexico City.

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 8th edition – July 2019 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78657 487 9 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 2019 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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