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Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán 01_306284-ffirs.qxp 7/21/08 1:38 PM Page i Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán 2009 by David Baird & Juan Cristiano Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s: “Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.” —Booklist “Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —Glamour Magazine “Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.” —Des Moines Sunday Register “Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.” —Knight Ridder Newspapers 02_306284-ftoc.qxp 7/21/08 1:47 PM Page vi 01_306284-ffirs.qxp 7/21/08 1:38 PM Page i Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán 2009 by David Baird & Juan Cristiano Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s: “Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.” —Booklist “Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —Glamour Magazine “Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.” —Des Moines Sunday Register “Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.” —Knight Ridder Newspapers 01_306284-ffirs.qxp 7/21/08 1:38 PM Page ii About the Authors A writer, editor, and translator, David Baird has lived several years in different parts of Mexico. Now based in Austin, Texas, he spends as much time in Mexico as possible. A former resident of Mexico City, Los Angeles native Juan Cristiano has written exten- sively about destinations in Mexico and Latin America, the United States, and Western Europe. Published by: Wiley Publishing, Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 Copyright © 2008 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authoriza- tion through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978/750-8400, fax 978/646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Pub- lishing, Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317/572-3447, fax 317/ 572-4355, or online at http://www.wiley.com/go/permissions. Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN 978-0-470-30628-4 Editor: Melinda Quintero Production Editor: Jonathan Scott Cartographer: Liz Puhl Photo Editor: Richard Fox Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services Front cover photo: Swimming beachside in Cancún. Back cover photo: Maya god Chac Mool. For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800/762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax 317/572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in the United States of America 54321 02_306284-ftoc.qxp 7/21/08 1:47 PM Page iii Contents List of Maps vi What’s New in Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán 1 by David Baird & Juan Cristiano 1 The Best of Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán 4 by David Baird & Juan Cristiano 1 The Best Beach Vacations . .4 7 The Best Shopping . .10 2 The Best Cultural Experiences . .5 8 The Hottest Nightlife . .11 3 The Best Archaeological Sites . .5 9 The Most Luxurious Hotels . .11 4 The Best Active Vacations . .8 10 The Best Inexpensive Inns . .13 5 The Best Places to Get Away 11 The Best Unique Inns . .13 from It All . .9 12 The Best Restaurants . .14 6 The Best Museums . .10 2 The Yucatán, Tabasco & Chiapas in Depth 16 by David Baird 1 The Yucatán, Tabasco & Dining Service Tips . .32 Chiapas Now . .16 4 Art & Architecture 101 . .32 2 A Look at the Past . .21 5 Religion, Myth & Folklore . .34 It’s Just a Game . .22 Gods & Goddesses . .35 A Sticky Habit . .25 6 The Lay of the Land . .35 3 Eating & Drinking . .29 7 Books, Film & Music . .36 3 Planning Your Trip to the Yucatán, Tabasco & Chiapas 41 by Juan Cristiano 1 Visitor Information . .41 4 Getting There & Getting Around . .50 2 Entry Requirements . .42 5 Money & Costs . .56 Cut to the Front of the Airport 6 Health . .59 Security Line as a Registered Smoke-Free Mexico? . .62 Traveler . .44 7 Safety . .62 3 When to Go . .46 8 Specialized Travel Resources . .63 Calendar of Events . .47 9 Sustainable Tourism . .67 What’s Biting When? . .49 02_306284-ftoc.qxp 7/21/08 1:47 PM Page iv iv CONTENTS It’s Easy Being Green . .69 Choosing an Air & Hotel Package . .72 Frommers.com: The Complete 11 Special-Interest Trips . .73 Travel Resource . .70 12 Staying Connected . .75 10 Packages for the Independent Online Traveler’s Toolbox . .76 Traveler . .71 13 Tips on Accommodations . .77 4 Suggested Yucatán Itineraries 79 by David Baird 1 The Regions in Brief . .79 3 An Eco-Adventure for the 2 Northern Yucatán in a Week . .82 Entire Family . .84 4 La Ruta Maya . .86 5 Cancún 88 by Juan Cristiano 1 Orientation . .89 4 Beaches, Watersports & The Best Websites for Cancún . .91 Boat Tours . .109 Fast Facts: Cancún . .92 5 Outdoor Activities & Attractions . .112 2 Where to Stay . .94 6 Shopping . .114 3 Where to Dine . .103 7 Cancún After Dark . .115 6 Isla Mujeres & Cozumel 118 by David Baird 1 Isla Mujeres . .118 2 Cozumel . .131 The Best Websites for Isla An All-Inclusive Vacation Mujeres & Cozumel . .120 in Cozumel . .134 Fast Facts: Isla Mujeres . .122 Fast Facts: Cozumel . .136 The Caribbean Coast: The Riviera Maya, Including 7 Playa del Carmen & the Costa Maya 149 by David Baird 1 Puerto Morelos & Vicinity . .153 4 Tulum, Punta Allen & Sian Ka’an . .173 2 Playa del Carmen . .157 The Sian Ka’an Biosphere Fast Facts: Playa del Carmen . .160 Reserve . .177 Choosing an All-Inclusive 5 Cobá Ruins . .178 in the Riviera Maya . .164 6 Majahual, Xcalak & the 3 South of Playa del Carmen . .166 Chinchorro Reef . .181 02_306284-ftoc.qxp 7/21/08 1:47 PM Page v CONTENTS v 7 Lago Bacalar . .182 9 Side Trips to Maya Ruins 8 Chetumal . .184 from Chetumal . .186 8 Mérida, Chichén Itzá & the Maya Interior 193 by David Baird The Best Websites for Mérida, Haciendas & Hotels . .210 Chichén Itzá & the Maya Interior . .194 2 The Ruins of Uxmal . .222 1 Mérida: Gateway to the Maya 3 Campeche . .230 Heartland . .195 Fast Facts: Campeche . .233 Daily Festivals & Special Events 4 The Ruins of Chichén Itzá . .237 in Mérida . .198 Fast Facts: Mérida . .199 5 Valladolid . .245 9 Tabasco & Chiapas 250 by David Baird 1 Villahermosa . .251 Fast Facts: San Cristóbal 2 Palenque . .257 de las Casas . .268 3 San Cristóbal de las Casas . .265 4 Tuxtla Gutiérrez . .279 The Zapatista Movement & Chiapas . .266 Appendix A: Fast Facts, Toll-Free Numbers & Websites 285 1 Fast Facts: The Yucatán Peninsula, 2 Toll-Free Numbers & Websites . .290 Tabasco & Chiapas . .285 Appendix B: Survival Spanish 293 Index 301 General Index . .301 Restaurant Index . .311 Accommodations Index . .309 02_306284-ftoc.qxp 7/21/08 1:47 PM Page vi List of Maps Mexico 6 Playa del Carmen 159 The Yucatán, Tabasco & Chiapas in Tulum Ruins 175 Depth 18 The Yucatán’s Lower Caribbean The Yucatán Peninsula 80 Coast 183 Tabasco & Chiapas 83 What to See & Do in Mérida 201 Northern Yucatán in a Week 84 Where to Stay & Dine in Mérida 209 An Eco-Adventure for the Entire Kabah Ruins 227 Family 85 Sayil Ruins 229 La Ruta Maya 87 Labná Ruins 230 Isla Cancún (Zona Hotelera) 95 Campeche 231 Downtown Cancún 97 Chichén Itzá Ruins 239 Isla Mujeres 119 Villahermosa 253 Cozumel 133 Where to Stay & Dine in San Miguel de Cozumel 137 Palenque 261 The Yucatán’s Upper Caribbean San Cristóbal de las Casas 267 Coast 151 The Chiapas Highlands 281 03_306284-flast.qxp 7/21/08 1:40 PM Page vii An Invitation to the Reader In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommenda- tion, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to: Frommer’s Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán 2009 Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 An Additional Note Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experi- ences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets. Other Great Guides for Your Trip: Frommer’s Cancún & the Yucatán Day by Day Frommer’s Portable Cancún Frommer’s Mexico 2009 Frommer’s Spanish PhraseFinder & Dictionary Pauline Frommer’s Cancún & the Yucatán 03_306284-flast.qxp 7/21/08 1:40 PM Page viii Frommer’s Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system.
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