SPEEDING AHEAD

FOOTWEAR NEWS | JULY 14, 2014 | VOLUME 70 | NO. 24 Will Kevin Plank’s big bet on running pay off for Under Armour?

TOUR DE COUTURE 10 styles that sizzled on the Paris runways

ONE ON THE RUN Why a lower profile could boost Hoka One One’s image POP TRACKS

Athletic brands punch up the palette for spring, showing white, gray and black sneakers with dazzling neon accents. Here, fresh technical running looks for men by MIZUNO and for women by PUMA.

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n Baltimore’s Locust Point, a hub of former industrial buildings now turned into homes for hipsters Iand businesses, activity was thriv- ing last Tuesday, even as tempera- tures threatened the 100-degree mark. It was shortly after 1 p.m., and a dozen fitness-minded people were outside on Under Armour’s replica of a football field doing pushups, lifting weights, lunging and running sprints. They were all young and buff, and they were committed to sweat-testing company gear. Inside the adjacent building overlook- ing the company-branded field (nearly everything here has the interlocking UA logo somewhere on it), Kevin Plank sat at a conference table in his office, talking about where the nearly $3 billion athletic brand he built is headed next and his obsession with fixing the things Under Armour doesn’t excel at. Known for fostering an aggressive, if at times brash, corporate culture, Plank was open about lessons he’s learned as CEO of a major company and the advice he’s received along the way — some of which he gleaned from famous connections. For instance, he’s been known to text Armour’s More determined than ever, Kevin Plank opens up about getting Under Armour’s shoe biz right and why running is critical to the brand’s success. Plate BY NEIL WEILHEIMER PHOTO: COURTESY OF UNDER ARMOUR COURTESY PHOTO:

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former U.S. Secretary of State Colin Powell for detergent factory that professional counsel, and he once benefited from now houses about 1,300 advice casino king Steve Wynn gave him after employees), execu- the firm’s initial public offering in 2005. tives are most excited “He said that I will be tested, tested with medi- about the latest line ocrity. And that people will justify decisions to of running footwear me and they will give every financial reason as to and its expanded New SpeedForm why I should do something,” Plank said. “But he use of SpeedForm looks, including the said, you’re running your brand, know what you technology. much-anticipated Gemini, near right and your brand stand for.” After launch- It’s no surprise, then, that Plank and his team ing the $100 SpeedForm Apollo in February to have been methodically plotting how to translate much retail success, Under Armour is betting the Under Amour name into top-notch footwear even bigger for spring ’15 with a broader collec- According to a recent Running USA report, the product. tion. It will debut SpeedForm Gemini, a $130 number of people getting active in the sport has He and his executives learned some harsh les- shoe targeting the run-specialty channel. It also grown 70 percent in the last decade. The study sons about the sneaker space after their splashy, plans to follow up with another trainer called revealed record numbers of female finishers and superhyped push into the non-cleated market SpeedForm Apollo Vent. people completing half-marathons. What’s more, in 2008 failed to connect with consumers. Plank Executives believe the SpeedForm prod- new types of races have also fueled interest in the openly acknowledged the product was not up to ucts, which are made in a bra factory instead sport, from Color Runs and Tough Mudder-like the company’s standards. of a traditional footwear production facility, competitions to zombie races. Since then, the firm has hired Dave Dombrow, will differentiate the company from other “While [Under Armour] is growing market now head of footwear design. It quietly opened brands — and, of course, boost total footwear share in running, it’s still the No. 6 brand. There a footwear and design center in Portland, Ore., sales, which are expected to hit $400 million are a lot of brands to get past to compete with in Nike Inc.’s backyard in the spring of 2013. this year, up from $300 million in 2013. The Nike. The best category to do that in is run- (The center began with two workers and quickly line has distinguishing traits such as a close fit ning,” SportsOneSource’s Powell said. “[Choos- swelled to 28; plans call for 50 employees there and a seamless heel, and uses materials that ing footwear] is a very personal decision for a by the end of 2015.) Then in October, Under enhance breathability. runner. They take their decisions very seriously. Armour promoted longtime staffer — and The Gemini, in particular, features a cushion- That’s the category Under Armour ought to be Plank’s first partner — Kip Fulks to president ing system underfoot that allows the material to pushing hard in. Let some of the other things go of product, in addition to his existing COO role. adapt based on how hard the runner strikes the to the back burner — like basketball, where Nike And in March of this year, the firm added former ground. has 95 percent of the market.” Mizuno and Nike executive Fritz Taylor to its “Running is key to who we are now, but it’s Executives said they have the strategy right ranks, charging him with the business side of all also key to who we are going to be in the future,” this round. And they have little doubt consum- running footwear. Dombrow said. ers will see the difference. The manpower moves are paying off. Industry To help tell the new product story, Under “When we launched our SpeedForm Apollo, experts said Under Armour’s footwear is a far cry Armour will begin “a substantial marketing we unlocked about 50 percent of the potential. from where it began. push” early next year. The campaign is expected We unlocked some cool new ways to manufac- “The footwear has steadily developed its own to include a mix of TV, print and digital spots, ture shoes,” Fulks said. “But with Gemini, we Under Armour personality,” said Matt Powell, as well as grassroots efforts at small running took it to the next level. With the Gemini, we an analyst at SportsOneSource. “The shoes events and major marathons. Top brass said the just learned more. We also hired more people don’t look like other companies’ shoes, and firm will announce new race sponsorships in the with a wealth of knowledge on biomechanics, their early shoes did. They were very derivative. coming weeks. (Under Armour typically spends on engineering, industrial design, textiles. We Now they have their own design point of view 11 percent of revenues on marketing each year.) didn’t have those people three years ago.” and personality.” The timing couldn’t be better, as participation Analysts said the new product also gives the Inside company headquarters (a former in running events is on the rise. firm “price stratification” with retailers. “They’ve executed on strategy really well,” said Camilo Lyon, an analyst with Canaccord Genuity. “They have footwear from $70 to $130, and hit other increments up to that. And that Running is key to who we are now, but it’s also matters. They can get into sporting goods, mid- tier retailers and now the specialty channel.” key to who we are going to be in the future.” Still, winning over consumers will be a hard — Dave Dombrow slog. While Plank is clearly up for the fight, it’s easy to see his frustration with the stigmas attached

(continued on page 21) JOHN AQUINO PHOTO:

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Nature’s Nurture The dog days of summer are calling Ken Downing. Neiman Marcus’ SVP and fashion director intends to take a break from his jet-setting lifestyle before the busy fashion-week diary kicks off in September. “My summer is mini-breaks at my country house on a lake. I live on an airplane, [so Ken Downing spending] time with my dog and the tranquility of the country is my perfect bliss,” Downing said. He also plans to flex his green thumb at his recently acquired acreage near Dallas, which he hopes to transform into a sculpture garden. Meanwhile, Karen Katz, Neiman Marcus Group president and CEO, is using her vacation time to get in touch with nature. The company leader is packing her “Masters of hiking boots and heading with her husband Alan Sex” cast to the mountains. “We’re leaving Dallas’ 100-de- gree heat behind and heading to the wildflower Selling Sex capital of the world: Crested Butte, Colo.,” Katz “Masters of Sex” is mastering footwear looks for season said. “We’ll be high up in the mountains at two, where costume designer Ane Crabtree showcases Guest Lists elevations over 9,000 feet where it’ll be a cool 70 period footwear for the show set in the early 1960s. “What I want is for the viewer to identify with characters Here comes the bride. Louise and Vince Ca- degrees, making for some very long and challeng- so much that they don’t feel the separation between past muto traveled to Montecito, Calif., to watch ing hikes with friends.” or present, there is something so classic about their longtime business partner Jessica Simpson [style],” said Crabtree. Here, the costumer shares marry Eric Johnson. Insiders told Spy Urban Edge shoe secrets and how the show has updated — that several bridesmaids donned custom Heather Williams is back. Though the founder and outdated — her wardrobe. Jessica Simpson looks, while Simpson of H Williams took a break for financial SPY herself paired her Carolina Herrera gown reasons back in fall 2011, the Any challenges with shoe selection? with custom Brian Atwood pumps. “I was Brooklyn-based designer has “We love to be absolutely realistic head to toe, excited to work with Jessica for her wedding relaunched her label for with late ’50s to early ’60s period attire. Our favorite day and create something to reflect the fall and spring — footwear looks were always the most delicate. And her bubbly personality,” Atwood said. and it’s got a whole when shooting in Los Angeles, it was 90 degrees and

Resort style OF BRANDS URTESY shoes would disintegrate. Actors wore their shoes for 12 “She wanted a fabulous platform new look, including to 18 hours.” sandal that had great support; chunky slip-ons and mules. “Before, my line was she wanted to be able to dance strictly dress,” she said. “[Now], in doing more What footwear styles can we expect for season two? all night long in them.” Louise casual product, the edginess can be really mas- “High heels and platforms didn’t exist back then. We Camuto’s adventures don’t stop culine, so I wanted to put some femininity in turned to shoes that resemble period shoes, but they are Atwood’s there. “Every summer, I look the product.” Williams spent the past few years sketch brand spanking new. For our principals, we use modern- forward to taking our 10-year-old consulting for brands such as DKNY, where she day shoes — Calvin Klein does a really clean pump son to visit my family in Sweden where I grew eventually partnered with a factory to relaunch with not too high of a heel. We also use Nine up,” she said. “It’s a beautiful country and nice with a more contemporary price point (styles West and some Italian brands as well. For the to experience it with him. It’s important that he range from $279 to $595). But don’t mistake gents, Michael [Sheen] has been wearing a knows his heritage, both Italian and Swedish.” the collection’s urban vibe for unrefined: The very classic wingtip by Brooks Broth- ers. We also search on Zappos.com for When she’s back at home, Camuto has some designer has three friends who have requested comfort shoes because those look sort sweeter plans: “We take frequent trips to the her shoes for their wedding days. “People want of period. This season, we are looking beach and [New York Italian restaurant] Sant [something different],” she said. “They want for a bit of a lower kitten heel for the Ambroeus for ice cream.” something they could wear again.” early 1960s.” SPOTTED ... Has your style been taking a trip back in time, then? Bill Clinton alongside Michael Greenberg and the Skechers team. “Being a costume designer, you can be self- The former President was on hand to give the keynote address at Lizzy less and do whatever is needed for the actors the brand’s annual Global Conference to about 1,500 team members. Caplan and directors. Then there are moments of extreme selfishness, where I sketch something “Within America, all over the world, people who believe in win-win scenarios, who really are trying to build networks of creative coopera- Michael Greenberg on a napkin at breakfast that I want for Lizzy and Bill Clinton [Caplan]. I will take that to the tailor, and he tion, are making good things happen,” Clinton said to the crowd. says, ‘Madam, you should have that as well.’” By Kristen Henning, with contributions from Christian Allaire and Khia Mercer PHOTOS: MASTERS OF SEX: COURTESY OF SHOWTIME; DOWNING: COURTESY OF NEIMAN MARCUS; ATWOOD SKETCH, H WILLIAMS STYLE, SKECHERS: CO SKECHERS: H WILLIAMS STYLE, SKETCH, ATWOOD OF NEIMAN MARCUS; COURTESY DOWNING: OF SHOWTIME; COURTESY OF SEX: MASTERS PHOTOS:

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Titan Takes On Three New Collections

BY KRISTEN HENNING partment stores, including The collection, priced Nordstrom, and indepen- Gwen Stefani around $150, features NEW YORK — For Titan Industries dent boutiques for spring with a Gx shoe detailed wedges and Inc., 2014 is all about rebuilding. ’15. Since its launch, the line elevated ballerina flats After a shaky past year, the has perfomed well on the that sell at independent Huntington Beach, Calif.-based ShoeDazzle site. boutiques. company is updating its portfolio in “Gx has performed very Ouaknine said com- a bid to become more competitive. well for us and exceeded our fort brands can be more For spring ’15, Titan will launch Gx expectations from a sales reliable, in terms of stay- by Gwen Stefani on a broad scale, perspective,” said Tim Cal- ing power, than fashion partner with comfort line Olivia lahan, SVP of merchandising labels that rely heavily Childs and take over the license for for the site. “The collection on trends. Cynthia Vincent footwear. has resonated well with our “I’ve always been jeal- The new lines will join four other clients. Everything is acces- ous of companies with licensed brands at Titan — L.A.M.B., sibly priced yet on trend.” a comfort business,” Badgley Mischka, Joe’s Jeans and Ouaknine echoed the said Ouaknine, who Charles Jourdan — plus in-house importance of smart pricing dabbled in the business brands Penny Loves Kenny and for the collection in the $100 with Flogg. (After two French Follies, for a total of nine sweet spot. “[With Gx], we years, Titan is ending its labels. (Titan recently severed ties need to be more creative relationship with Flogg, with comfort brand Flogg . The firm with the design so we can whose designer, Carol has partnered with a rotating cast make the product as great de Leon, is moving of brands over the past few years, as L.A.M.B. but available at forward with the brand including Bebe, Betsey Johnson and a more accessible price,” on her own.) CeCe L’Amour. ) Ouaknine said. Titan has also “We’ve had an amazing run here, The executive, who changed its relationship and then we hit a wall in 2013,” Titan has been working closely with Vivienne West- CEO Joe Ouaknine said. “The biggest with the songstress on the wood, still manufactur- challenge we had was that dress shoes product, said colorful high heels and on-screen singing competition “The ing its shoes but no longer bound by were dead and not selling. We decided wedges with intricate uppers and a Voice” as a judge in September. a formal licensing relationship with to make some changes, and things are few tomboy elements are on deck for For her part, Stefani told Footwear the brand. already looking better.” spring. “Gwen is the coolest person News that her decade-long partner- That move enabled Titan, who had After producing Gwen Stefani’s I know. She’s patient, she’s engaging, ship with Titan made the company a already been working with Cynthia L.A.M.B line for about a decade, and it’s her taste,” he said, adding that natural collaborator for the new line. Vincent on production, to add the the firm is taking its relationship Stefani’s exposure will increase “They work hard to execute my designer as a licensee, according to with the pop star further with further when she joins aesthetic and work with us to make Ouaknine. For Vincent, she is excited the launch of a lower-priced line A spring ’15 look [product] that not only has style and to spend more time on what she’s called Gx by Gwen Stefani. from Olivia Childs attitude, but are also high quality most passionate about: design. “Lo- The collection, which retails and priced well,” the singer said. gistics took up too much time, and the for around $100, launched “Before we started working on Gx, product didn’t get my full attention,” exclusively on ShoeDazzle earlier they showed me they had the ability said Vincent, who first launched her this year and will roll out in de- to source and manufacture really footwear division in 2006. “Now my impressive product.” [goals] are more tangible. I have a lot In addition to the launch of Gx, Ti- more support in bringing the shoes tan is also diving deeper into the com- back to where I started.” fort market. The firm unveiled Olivia While on her own, Vincent was Now my [goals] are more Childs, founded by Julie Johnson in working with factories in the U.S., 2013, at the FFANY show in June. Italy and Portugal. Now Titan will tangible. I have a lot more support Of her decision to partner with move manufacturing to China and Titan, Johnson said, “This enables Mexico, which will enable the brand in bringing the shoes back to me to make sure I have great pro- — sold at Bloomingdale’s, Saks and duction. I will have more access to Neiman Marcus — to slightly lower its where I started.” — Cynthia Vincent materials and metals, and it opens price points. Down the line, Vincent me up to have much more creativity also plans to launch a contemporary

with the brand.” line, CV, with the Titan family. OF TITAN COURTESY PHOTOS:

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Bread & Butter Buyers Seek the Unique BY KRISTEN ALLEN owner Dag Lübke, who was at the Nobrand for boutiques in the east- their feet anymore,” Fuglsang said. Swedish Hasbeens booth ordering ern German state of Brandenburg. To that end, slip-ons made a BERLIN — The mood among shoes he described as “timeless” She was on the hunt for loafers strong showing at the trade fair, buyers and vendors at last week’s with a fashion-forward flair. and low boots for both men and particularly for men’s shoes. Bread & Butter was optimistic, He typically stocks well-estab- women, leaning toward details in- Chunky, wearable heels and though some were still cautious lished brands such as Converse and cluding playful yet subtle variations platform sandals with zigzag soles amid Europe’s continuing economic Birkenstock at his store, Wohnge- in material and texture. “It’s hard to were also part of many women’s recovery eorts. schwisterchen, which specializes in get customers in the stores because collections. For sneakers and The echo of the financial crisis Scandinavian children’s goods and of online sales, so styles have to loafers, muted metallics were big, remains, “but [the economy] is get- women’s wear. But like other retail- really knock us out,” she said. as well as mixed textures and ting better, slowly improving even ers, he emphasized the need for One sign of economic recovery is a patterns such as flower motifs in bad markets like Spain — though unique details to entice customers. renewed focus on craftsmanship, said ranging from muted calico to exu- people are careful,” said Swedish “The main problem is online Jakob Fuglsang, founder of Denmark- berant tropical prints. Hasbeens CEO Patric Blixt. competition, so we try to find based vendor Shoe the Bear. Changes are also in store for Being a “category leader” in brands and models that aren’t “People are willing to pay more the Bread & Butter fair itself, with wooden-soled shoes has helped necessarily available there,” for better quality, whereas a few organizers announcing its return to the Swedish clog company grow Lübke said. years ago [the decision to pur- Barcelona in January 2015. It will, despite economic anxieties, with His quest for originality was chase] was price-based,” he said. however, be back in the German classic styles remaining popular in shared by buyers like Mandy Regardless of which styles they capital that summer, followed by the the industry, Blixt said. Lietzmann, who was selecting sought, buyers agreed on one event’s first foray into the Asian mar- Standing testament to that suc- “classic styles with something spe- major requirement: comfort. ket with a Seoul, South Korea, show a cess was Hamburg boutique co- cial” from Portuguese shoemaker “People don’t want to destroy few months later in September.

FN0714P09.indd 9 7/10/14 3:44 PM 07102014154518 The UA SpeedForm™ Apollo destroys the rules of footwear construction. We craft each shoe in a clothing factory to create the precision feel, fi t, and comfort you know from Under Armour performance apparel. It’s the shoe we were born to make. FNRUNNING FEATURES SHOES CHANGE COLOR × BEST OF COUTURE

Back to Black There’s nothing neutral about spring’s sophisticated all-noir running looks. Sporty styles get a jolt of energy from bright accents, like with these lightweight trainers for men and women by TOPO ATHLETIC. PHOTOGRAPHED BY THOMAS IANNACCONE

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FN0714P11.indd 11 7/9/14 5:54 PM 07092014175741 Running loves its all-over brights, but for spring ’15, the freshest men’s and women’s styles marry vivid color pops with sophisticated steel tones. PHOTOGRAPHED BY THOMAS IANNACCONE

GREY

of S

SHADE

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FN0714P12,13.indd 12 7/9/14 5:55 PM 07092014175623 Market Editor: Jennifer Ernst Beaudry Running loves its all-over Fashion Editor: Mosha Lundström Halbert brights, but for spring ’15, the Assistant Fashion Editor: Christian Allaire freshest men’s and women’s styles marry vivid color pops with sophisticated steel tones. PHOTOGRAPHED BY THOMAS IANNACCONE

From left: Women’s mesh- upper runner by FILA; women’s lightweight trainer from BROOKS; stability shoe for women from KARHU; women’s neutral running sneaker by SAUCONY; men’s stability model by KARHU; FILA’s mesh-upper running style for men; SAUCONY’s men’s neutral runner; men’s lightweight shoe by BROOKS.

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FN0714P12,13.indd 13 7/9/14 5:55 PM 07092014175640 HAUTE COUTURE

Direct from Paris, the fall ’14 10couture presentations offered a variety of fresh footwear statements. The offhand 1 pairing of handcrafted formal Chanel wear with flats — be they sandals or brogues — pointed forward, while bold booties and pumps added a sharp touch to all the frippery on display.

PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI

7 Bouchra Jarrar

6 Giambattista Valli 8 Elie Saab

FN0714P14,15.indd 14 7/10/14 4:17 PM 07102014161909 2 Dior 4 Viktor & Rolf 5 Schiaparelli 3 Valentino

9 Versace 10 Armani Privé

FN0714P14,15.indd 15 7/10/14 4:17 PM 07102014161911 ISSUE DATE 8/18 • CLOSE DATE 8/6

The FN PLATFORM Issue IS COMING

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For more information on advertising, contact Sandi Mines, Vice President, Publisher, at 212.630.4872, or your FN salesperson. MARKETPLACESPECIAL ATHLETIC SECTION

Full Blast Experiential races like the global Color Run attract athletes of all ages and levels with upbeat marketing and a color story that goes from head to foot — and all over everything else. FOR MORE, SEE PAGE 19

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from our athletes and wear testers has been good. We’re shipping in July, and that’s the shoe we On the Fly think will sway the naysayers. Who are those naysayers? Jim Van Dine aims to take Deckers’ running brand to 2 JVD: Younger people on the show floors new heights. BY JENNIFER ERNST BEAUDRY think of them as clown shoes, although there’s less and less of that as time goes by. But [the sneakers] don’t fit neatly into historical oka One One is poised to categories. All our shoes are inherently stable, take flight. Jim Van Dine for example, so we have no “stability” shoes. The Richmond, Calif.- That’s our biggest challenge, overcoming the based running brand, rigid thinking that people have had about what Hknown for its supersized constitutes a running shoe. sneakers and “Time to Fly” tagline, has made You’ve expanded your endorsement ros- quick progress since its 3 ter beyond trail and ultrarunners. Has acquisition in 2012 by Goleta, Calif.- that affected your business? based Deckers Outdoor Corp. (the JVD: For a lot of people, signing elite track and deal was completed last spring). It has field athletes is changing their mindset. As we expanded to around 750 doors today make racing shoes and spikes, [that product] is from 180 in 2013. going to conform to normal conventions. When “We’re experiencing tremendous Deckers bought Hoka, the brand had a number of growth, in the neighborhood of 300 per- ultramarathon runners, and we’re still very com- cent to 350 percent [in year-over-year mitted to that and have signed new ultrarunners. sales],” said the brand’s president, Jim But we wanted to sign some elite track athletes as Van Dine. “We’re not going to continue a demonstration that this isn’t just for old broken at that pace indefinitely, but we see runners and ultramarathoners. Even superelites there is still lots of opportunity.” like Leo Manzano benefit from wearing the To fuel the momentum, Van Dine shoes. It’s a brand reset for a lot of people. And transitioned at the beginning of the while most runners don’t really care about elite year to focusing full time on Hoka. stars, younger athletes, like high school cross- Previously, he was also supervising country runners, look up to role models. sister brand Ahnu Footwear, which he founded, and Tsubo. What moves are you making in terms of The running label has also added 4 distribution? industry vets Mark Mastalir and Rob JVD: For spring ’15, we’re expanding the Purvy as VPs of marketing and product, product line dramatically so we can segment respectively. And Hoka The lower-profile and have a whole [separate offering] for sporting has hired 14 field service Clifton model goods and athletic specialty. Running specialty reps, who host clinics running brand. will have its own product, and we’re going into and demo runs at Here, Van Dine sounds The Sports Authority, Finish Line and places like stores around the off on executing smart that. It’s too early to write orders, but they’ve country. reinventions and winning indicated a willingness to take us on, and we’re Van Dine said those over the skeptics. excited but staying focused and committed. outreach efforts touch 400 to 500 runners a week. High- Are you moving away from Hoka One How does moving into the broader sport- profile endorsement deals, such as a multiyear 1 One’s quintessential “maximal” look with 5 ing goods channel fit into your larger agreement inked in April with 2012 Olympic these new lower-profile styles? goals? silver medalist Leo Manzano, have further raised JVD: We’ve categorized the business into two JVD: Deckers never acquired Hoka to be a niche Hoka’s profile. groups: “ultrasize,” which is the original shoes, brand. My main responsibility is to make sure The product line is evolving as well. Van Dine and then “oversize,” the lower-profile shoes. The the brand has no ceiling, that we can grow to said that this month, Hoka will debut more lower- business is trending to be 55 percent oversized whatever extent the market allows. And there are profile sneakers that should help the label reach and 45 percent ultrasized. The oversized shoes numerous athletic brands that surpass $1 billion new consumers. And for spring ’15, it will launch a are super plush, and they’re still larger than in annual revenue, and I don’t think that’s an line of shoes targeted to the sporting goods chan- conventional shoe dimensions, but they’re a little impossible target, although I’m not saying that

nel, an entirely new distribution avenue for the closer to what has been normal. The response would happen in the next few years. ONE OF HOKA COURTESY PHOTOS:

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PHOTOS: KYLE ERICK SEN Brights Rainbow athletes of all stripes. into play shades for neon brought Skechers and Nike, from Asics styles to match. shoes Standout hued brightly and wildvolume outfits with N.Y.,in Brooklyn, cranked the up at event latest the finale. runners But race the rockin’ at and during its dye biodegradable inbright, participants dousing fun, on emphasis the puts Planet,”the global the Color Run series 5K on Happiest “The With tagline the 07092014150347 MARKETPLACE They Are Wearing ×ATHLETIC JULY 14, 2014 | |19 7/9/14 3:02PM FN0714P20.indd 20 20 | ATHLETIC × MARKETPLACE good relationships.”good door andhavejust started some We’ve beengetting ourfoot inthe and shoefittings for[companies]. tions, butalsodoinghealthfairs been pitchingtothecorpora- 5k trainingprogramthatwe’ve focus onthat.We haveourown business, andwe’llhaveabigger aftermorecorporatewellness go “One thingwe’ve donethisyearis Portland, Ore. Co-owner, FitRightNW, Robb Finegan offerings frombig-box retailers.” quality brandstodistinguish our apparel fromless-distributed we arebuyingmorelifestyle a moreevenflow oftraffic.And apparel andaccessoriestocreate out thestore tobetter integrate footwear try-on areasthrough- more comfortable,spreadthe seats tomaketheexperience ing roomswithcurtainsandlove specialists, trickedoutourdress- particular. We havehiredapparel apparel sales —andwomen’s in “We areputting atonoffocuson Syracuse, N.Y. Co-owner, Fleet Feet Sports, Ed Griffin |JULY 14, 2014 store whilealso beingagreatrunningstore.” amateurs. We needtolearnhow tobethatkindof compared withpeoplewhosellapparel, we’re Among runningstores, we’re oneofthebest. But buying andsales techniques—there’s alot tolearn. adjusting ourstore merchandising, replenishing, togrow,going itneedstobethroughapparel.We’re “We’re putting alot ofeffortintoapparel.Ifwe’re President, JackRabbit Sports, NewYork Lee Silverman Burning Question  nine-month investment inanewPOS Founder, BigPeach RunningCo., Atlanta be challenged atcustomerbe challenged retention. This willconnectourdatabaseswith consumer andtransaction friendly.” social mediaandshoppinginforma- Peach isnodifferent—continuesto system thatconnectsthepurchases additional pairsandforother prod- channel acrosstheboard—andBig ucts. It’llalsomakecashwrapsnot a necessity, sowe’llbemuchmore tion, andwillgreatlyincreasethe continue toshopatBigPeach for and [information]ofguests. Our “We’ve madeasix-figure,six-to likelihood that[customers] will Mike Cosentino the Second the Second Half of the Half ofthe getting that thewayweneedittobe.” Operationally,look good. we’re working on all thoseSKUs, butyouwantthespaceto ing afractionofthebusiness, wecan’t have [we cancarry].Whenyouhaveastore do- the inventory mixandthelevelsofproduct second store [inFebruary], isfiguringout “Our internalfocus, sinceweaddedour Naperville, Ill. Owner, Naperville RunningCo., Kris Hartner Have You Made for Made for Strategic Strategic Changes Changes

BY

JENNIFER What What Year?

ERNST

BEAUDRY 7/9/14 12:42PM

PHOTOS: SILVERMAN: GEORGE CHINSEE; HARTNER: FAIRCHILD ARCHIVES; ALL OTHERS: COURTESY OF RETAILERS INSIDER Under Armour × UP FRONT

“We have to do a better job of retraining our “We also believe obesity and health is a mas- traditional wholesale partners, who maybe said, sive issue for the world. And the next big category Armour’s Plate ‘No, I tried your footwear three or four years is going to be proactive health and medicine. (continued from page 6) ago,’” Plank said. “The company we were four Right now we have no information about our to his company long ago. years ago is so drastically di erent.” bodies, unless you’re a diabetic drawing blood “We are constantly burdened by people say- One major di erence: Under Armour entered three times a day,” he added. ing, ‘Oh, no. They are the apparel guys. They the acquisitions game for the first time in its 18- Plank and crew said they hope MapMyFitness don’t make shoes.’ I don’t know who made those year history. will not only o er body analytics to users, but also rules of saying you’re an apparel brand or you’re Last November, it agreed to pay $150 million provide the company with actionable insights. a footwear brand,” the chairman and CEO said. for MapMyFitness Inc., maker of applications For instance, of the 27 million registered app “Everybody is generally making their things in that let athletes record and share data from their users — up from 20 million when Under Armour generally the same places. But some are now workouts online using GPS technology. snagged it — the average person runs about di erentiating, like with SpeedForm and using a Talking about his recent buy and sounding 3.1 miles. To that end, company executives are bra factory. The unique thing is that when we go o on its potential, Plank got a glint in his eyes. discussing how to build the optimal shoe for that to a new market, we have the ability to reintro- He has lately been a crusader-in-chief for good distance. duce ourselves.” health. Additionally, top bosses have data on the times To prove his point, Plank rattled o numbers “You can pull up your bank balance on your of day people run and the weather conditions as easily as football stats. phone, you can pull up stock prices, you can find they are most willing to head out in. The goal, In the U.S. market, wholesale distribution out how much gas and oil your car needs. But they said, is to build product around that infor- of footwear accounts for 11 to 13 percent of when you see a doctor every 12 or 18 months, mation. company sales, he said. The consumer appetite they pull out a manila folder, ask how you feel, “Running is the biggest place where you have for footwear is even stronger in Under Armour and you’re thinking, the most valuable asset I to play as a company,” Plank said. “You have the stores, where shoes make up about 20 to 25 have in life is my health and you have no data on most discerning consumer there who’s the most percent of sales. Meanwhile in China, 40 percent it whatsoever other than when I was here last?” knowledgeable about footwear. If you can win of sales are for footwear. Plank said. there, you can win anywhere.”

FOOTWEAR NEWS 2014 EDITORIAL CALENDAR

ISSUE DATE SPACE CLOSE EDITORIAL FEATURE

JULY 7/7 6/26 Men’s Runway 7/14 7/2 Paris Couture, Running Athletic 7/21 7/10 Outdoor Retailer Issue, In Person: Jim Zwiers • Distribution: Outdoor Retailer 7/28 7/17 FFaNY Pre-Show Issue • Distribution: FFaNY

AUGUST 8/4 7/24 FFaNY Show Issue • Distribution: FFaNY 8/11 7/31 FN PLATFORM Pre-Show Issue • Distribution: FN PLATFORM 8/18 8/6 FN SPY: VEGAS • Distribution: NSRA Conference, FN PLATFORM, WWDMAGIC, Project LV 8/18 8/6 FN PLATFORM Show Issue, Comfort, Athletic / Outdoor Footwear News is the premier destination for the Distribution: NSRA Conference, FN PLATFORM, WWDMAGIC, Project LV, footwear industry’s classified and career listings. The Atlanta Shoe Market 8/25 8/14 The MICAM Show Issue, FN PLATFORM Show Wrap-Up, Flip Flops Distribution: The MICAM Show, Surf Expo SEPTEMBER 800.423.3314 9/8 8/28 Foot Locker Milestone, Kids-Special Section, Materials & Components, Sustainability • Distribution: SMOTA, Children’s Great Event Shoe Show, OR FAX 212.779.7248 NE & NW Materials Show DEADLINE: 2PM (ET) WEDNESDAY PRIOR TO 9/15 9/4 China Issue • Distribution: The MICAM Shanghai, Fashion Access DATE OF PUBLICATION 9/22 9/11 Must Buys Spring • Distribution: Sole Commerce

FN0714P05,06,21.indd 21 7/10/14 6:36 PM 07102014183706 Embassy Sweets Gianvito Rossi is having a major shoe moment — and luxury e-tailer Mytheresa wanted to celebrate it. The Munich-based online store held a party with the women’s designer last Monday at the Italian embassy in Paris. The festive night featured food, wine and Mytheresa founder Susanne Botschen, and even a few famous faces, among them Academy Award-winner Jared Leto. PHOTO: STÉPHANE FEUGÈRE STÉPHANE PHOTO: On the Cover: Photographed by THOMAS IANNACCONE

FN IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 70, NO. 24. JULY 14, 2014. FN (ISSN 0162-914X) is published weekly (except for the first weeks in March and September, third weeks in May, November and December, fourth weeks in April and June, and fifth weeks in September and December) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg, Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre., Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO FOOTWEAR NEWS, P.O. Box 6357, Harlan, IA 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTION, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 6357, Harlan, LA 51593, call 866-963-7335, or email customer service at [email protected]. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 800-662-2275, option 7. Basic one-year subscription price: U.S. $72, Canadian $149; foreign $295. Regular single-copy cost $10. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes unde- liverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to FOOTWEAR NEWS, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permission requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax requests to 212-630-5883. For reprints, please email [email protected] or call Wright’s Media 877-652-5295. For reuse permissions, please email [email protected] or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at www.footwearnews.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. Occasionally we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 6357, Harlan, IA 51593 or call 866-963-7335. FOOTWEAR NEWS IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR ANY DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANU - SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSID - ERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY FOOTWEAR NEWS IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. 22 | | JULY 14, 2014

FN0714P22.indd 22 7/10/14 3:05 PM 07102014150628 WHAT HAPPENS IN VEGAS... IS ALL HERE.

FEBRUARY 2014

WHAT ’S VEGAS BUZZ COOKING HOT SHOPS WITH VEGAS’ & COOL SIPS TOP CHEFS THE TRENDS THAT HAVE

BUYERS PIECE OF TALKING BRITNEY HITTING THE STRIP

WITH FERGIE

JESSICAWHERE WILL THE BILLION-DOLLAR GIRL GO NEXT? JESSICA SIMPSON TALKS ABOUT NEW LAUNCHES, HER LOVEJAMS FOR PLATFORMS AND WHY VINCE CAMUTO RULES.

It’s a sure bet when you advertise in the FN SPY Vegas Issue—the insider’s guide to the hottest trends, people, and shoes in the footwear industry.

ISSUE DATE: 8/18/14 | AD CLOSE: 8/6/14

FOR MORE INFORMATION ON ADVERTISING, CONTACT SANDI MINES, VP, PUBLISHER, AT 212.630.4872, OR YOUR FN SALESPERSON