Andover Pullover and Jacket Pattern and Tutorial Terra's

Andover Pullover and Jacket Pattern and Tutorial v Terra’s Treasures v

Materials

• Fabric -Woven Cotton, Flan- nel, Wool, Fleece, Polyester Blend, Twill, Corduroy, Sta- ble Knit, Sweatshirt Fleece. (Pre-wash your fabric.) • Medium Fusible Interfacing • Separating Zipper (For Jack- et Option) • Two 1” Buttons • One 1/2” Button (Optional for Pullover) • Piping 1 yard (Optional) • 3/8” Wide Elastic- 1/4 yard

3/8” Seam allowance included

This is not for commercial use. You may not resell this pattern. Copyright of Terra Jennings 2014

Pg. 1 Andover Pullover and Jacket © Terras Treasures 2014 Size Chart

Yardage

45” width fabric *Additional fabric may be required to match stripes or one way designs.

Finished Measurements

Pg. 2 Andover Pullover and Jacket © Terras Treasures 2014 Printing Instructions: To print the pattern, make sure page scaling is set to none and auto rotate and center is selected. Print off the page with the 2” test box (page 36) and adjust set- tings as needed to match size. Print off the rest of the pattern. Tape the pattern together with the numbers in sequence to make this:

Also, to print one size, select the layers option from adobe and unselect the unwanted sizes.

Leave page numbers, text, and borders selected.

Cutting Layout: Lay the pattern pieces on the fabric following the grain. The grain will be the length of your fabric.

Pg. 3 Andover Pullover and Jacket © Terras Treasures 2014 Cutting the Pullover and Jacket: • Cut one front piece on the fold for the pullover. Or add the zipper allowance to the front and cut two front pieces, mirror image. • Cut two pocket pieces. • Cut two sleeve pieces, mirror image (Short or long). • Cut one back piece on the fold. • Cut two hood pieces, mirror image. • Cut two tab pieces. • Cut one placket for pullover option. (Not Jacket).

• Interfacing: • Cut one placket piece. • Cut one tab piece.

• For the unlined pullover: • Extend the placket piece by 18”, making a long rectangle.

Pg. 4 Andover Pullover and Jacket © Terras Treasures 2014 Cutting the Lining (Jacket Only): • Cut two front pieces, mirror image. • Cut two sleeve pieces, mirror image (Short or long). • Cut one back piece on the fold. • Cut two hood pieces, mirror image.

• For the lined hood pullover: • Cut two hood pieces, mirror image.

Elastic: • *Cut 2 pieces of elastic: 6-12m-3T 3 3/4” 4T-8 4” 10-16 4 1/4”

Pg. 5 Andover Pullover and Jacket © Terras Treasures 2014 Sewing the Jacket:

• On the right side of the fabric, mark the button placement and the pocket placement.

• On the wrong side of the fabric, mark the pleat using the dotted line on the pattern piece.

• Lay both front pieces right side together and baste together along the middle seam using a 7/8” seam allowance.

Pg. 6 Andover Pullover and Jacket © Terras Treasures 2014 • Lay the bodice flat and press the seam open.

• Place your zipper right side down, centering the zipper with the seam. Pin in place. Stitch along side each side of the zipper with a 3/8” seam allowance from the side of the seam.

• Remove the basting stitches.

Pg. 7 Andover Pullover and Jacket © Terras Treasures 2014 Sewing• the Pullover: • • Lay the front bodice flat and mark the pockets and button placement.

• On the wrong side of the fabric, mark the pleat from the dashed line on the pattern piece.

• Mark the center of the bodice by folding it in half and pressing.

Pg. 8 Andover Pullover and Jacket © Terras Treasures 2014 Sewing the Pockets: • For piping on the pockets, take the piping and place it raw edges together with the edges of the pocket. Right sides together. Using a zipper foot, sew the piping to the pocket following the stitching on the piping. Re- peat with other pocket.

• Grab the rope inside the piping and pull out 2”. Trim off 1 1/2”. Work the rope back into the piping. Repeat with the other 3 sides.

• With the piping folded in towards the pocket, fold the top down 1/4” and then another 3/4”. Stitch in place.

Pg. 9 Andover Pullover and Jacket © Terras Treasures 2014 • For pockets without piping, stitch along the edge of the pocket with 3/8” seam allowance. Use that line to press under the seam allowance of the pocket. Repeat with other pocket.

• With edges folded in towards the pocket, fold the top down 1/4” and then again 3/4”. Press flat.

• Stitch in place and repeat with other pocket.

Pg. 10 Andover Pullover and Jacket © Terras Treasures 2014 • Now take one of the elastic pieces and thread it through the top casing. Stitch in place on both sides. Repeat with other pocket.

• Using the marks on the front of the bodice, pin your pocket in place.

Pg. 11 Andover Pullover and Jacket © Terras Treasures 2014 • Stitch along the pocket. Re- peat with other pocket.

Sewing the Pleats:

• Fold the bodice so the drawn line is facing out. Crease along that line. Stitch the bodice together 1/2” from the folded edge stopping at the end of the line.

• Lay the bodice flat and flat- ten out the seam allowance so that the drawn line is in the center, matching the stitching. Press flat or pin in place.

Pg. 12 Andover Pullover and Jacket © Terras Treasures 2014 • Stitch 1/8” along each side. Stop when the line stops. (It helps to place a pin there to mark the end.

• It should look like this from the front. Repeat with the other side.

• Working from the right side of the fabric, fold the fabric at the top of the shoulder where the triangle marking is. Fold so the outside of the fold is facing towards the sleeve. Baste in place.

Pg. 13 Andover Pullover and Jacket © Terras Treasures 2014 • Next fold the pleat at the neckline. The top of the triangle is the center of the pleat. The ends of the triangle are the ends of the pleat.

• Fold the center of the bodice right sides together with the top of the triangle in the center.

• Now fold again, tucking the fold under the bodice so the outside of the pleat is facing the center of the bodice. baste in place.

Pg. 14 Andover Pullover and Jacket © Terras Treasures 2014 • Repeat with the other side of the bodice. (For the pullover there will be 1” between the pleats.) Baste in place. The pleats should now look like this: Repeat with the other side of the bodice.

• There will be a 1” gap between the pleats.

• Take the back bodice and place it right sides together with the front bodice. Stitch together at the shoulders. Serge or zigzag the edges.

Pg. 15 Andover Pullover and Jacket © Terras Treasures 2014 Sewing the unlined hood: • Place the hood piece right sides together and stitch in place along the top and back. Zigzag or serge the edges.

• Now open the hood to match the top seam with the back seam. Line up the top opening and stitch closed. Zigzag or serge the edges.

• Find the center of the bodice and clip 3/8” along the fold.

Pg. 16 Andover Pullover and Jacket © Terras Treasures 2014 • Pin the hood right sides together with the neckline. The back seam of the hood should match up with the center of the back neckline. Stitch in place and serge or zigzag the edges.

• The front of each side of the hood should match up with the clip at the center front bodice.

• Iron the interfacing to the wrong side of the placket. Use the pattern piece to draw the placement of the placket.

• Fold the placket together lengthwise and cut to the interfacing.

Pg. 17 Andover Pullover and Jacket © Terras Treasures 2014 • Take the placket piece and place it right side to wrong side of the bodice. Line up the center of the drawn rectangle with the pressed center of the bodice. Pin in place. (The top of the interfacing should be at the neckline). Sew over the drawn rectangle.

• It should look like this from the front of the bodice:

• Cut down the center of the rectangle, angling off to both corners making a triangle. Clip to each corner but not through the seam.

Pg. 18 Andover Pullover and Jacket © Terras Treasures 2014 • Now pin the strips of fabric to the hood on each side. Using the same seam allowance as the placket, stitch the strips in place stopping 1” before the top hood seam.

• Measure where each strip would meet the top hood seam and mark. Place both strips right sides together and stitch in place where the marker is. Trim off any ex- cess.

• Stitch the rest of the strip in place. The strip seam should match with the top hood seam.

• Turn the placket to the right side of the bodice and press flat.

Pg. 19 Andover Pullover and Jacket © Terras Treasures 2014 • Fold under the binding and placket 1/4” and press flat.

• Fold the placket and binding over the seam allowance to cover the stitching on the right side of the hood and bodice. Pin in place and stitch. Stop stitching once you reach the end of the placket opening. It helps to place a pin there to mark the end.

• Fold the placket with the shorter side under.

• Then fold the longer side over the top of the shorter side.

• Fold under the bottom of the placket 1/4” and pin in place.

Pg. 20 Andover Pullover and Jacket © Terras Treasures 2014 • Pin the placket to the front of the bodice.

• Stitch in place with a square. I like to also sew an X through it.

Sewing the lined hood: • Take the placket piece and place it right side to wrong side of the bodice. Line up the center of the drawn rectangle with the pressed center of the bodice. Pin in place. (The top of the interfacing should be at the neckline). Sew over the drawn rectangle.

Pg. 21 Andover Pullover and Jacket © Terras Treasures 2014 • It should look like this from the front of the bodice:

• Cut down the center of the rectangle, angling off to both corners making a triangle. Clip to each corner but not through the seam.

• Turn the placket to the right side of the bodice and press flat.

• Fold under each side of the placket 1/4” and press flat.

Pg. 22 Andover Pullover and Jacket © Terras Treasures 2014 • Fold the placket over the seam allowance to cover the stitching on the right side of the hood and bodice. Pin in place and stitch. Stop stitching once you reach the end of the placket opening. It helps to place a pin there to mark the end. Repeat with the other side.

• Fold the placket with the shorter side under.

• Then fold the longer side over the top of the shorter side.

• Fold under the bottom of the placket 1/4” and pin in place.

Pg. 23 Andover Pullover and Jacket © Terras Treasures 2014 • Pin the placket to the front of the bodice.

• Stitch in place with a square. I like to also sew an X through it.

• Place the hood piece right sides together and stitch in place along the top and back. Repeat with the lining hood pieces.

Pg. 24 Andover Pullover and Jacket © Terras Treasures 2014 • Now open the hood to match the top seam with the back seam. Line up the top opening and stitch closed. Repeat with the lining hood pieces.

• Place the outer hood right sides together with the bodice neckline. Each end of the hood should over- hang by 3/8” each side of the placket. Stitch in place.

• Repeat with the lining hood piece.

Pg. 25 Andover Pullover and Jacket © Terras Treasures 2014 • Take both hood pieces and place them right sides together. Tuck the bodice inside. Stitch around the hood leaving a 3” gap at the top.

• Trim the corners.

• Turn right side out and tuck in the remaining seam allowance. Press flat and top stitch in place.

Sewing the Jacket and Pullover: • Take one of the sleeve pieces and place it right sides together with the front and back bodice. (The sleeve has a front and back side, so make sure to match the front with the front bodice etc). Stitch in place. Repeat with the other sleeve. serge or zigzag the edges.

Pg. 26 Andover Pullover and Jacket © Terras Treasures 2014 • Place the front and back bodice pieces together and align the sleeves. Stitch together in an L shape. Zigzag or serge the edges. Repeat with the other side.

• Lay the bodice flat and tuck the pleats in place. They should not overlap your button markers. Press flat or pin in place.

• With small stitches, sew the pleats in place aligned with the button markers so that they will be covered by the button tab. Make sure to backstitch so those stitches stay.

• Iron the interfacing to the wrong side of one of the button tab pieces. Place the tab guide centered over the piece and trace around it.

Pg. 27 Andover Pullover and Jacket © Terras Treasures 2014 • Place the tab pieces right sides together and stitch together using the drawn line. Leave a 2” opening in the center.

• Trim the edges to 1/8” ex- cept where the opening is.

• Turn right side out and press flat. Topstitch around the tab.

• Using the tab guide, mark where the ends of each button hole should be.

• Sew your button holes and attach your buttons.

• (Optional) Sew a small button and button hole on the placket where it will be covered by the button tab.

• For the pullover, hem the bottom and sleeves by folding the edge under 1/4” and then another 1/2”. Stitch in place.

Pg. 28 Andover Pullover and Jacket © Terras Treasures 2014 Finishing the Jacket: • Place the main hood pieces right sides together and sew along the top and back.

• Open up the hood so that the top and back seam meet. Align the top opening and stitch closed. Set the hood aside.

• Take the two front bodice lining pieces and the back lining piece and place them right sides together. Stitch together at the shoulders.

• Take one of the lining sleeve pieces and place it right sides together with the front and back bodice. (The sleeve has a front and back side, so make sure to match the front with the front bodice etc). Stitch in place. Repeat with the other sleeve. Pg. 29 Andover Pullover and Jacket © Terras Treasures 2014 • Place the front and back bodice pieces together and align the sleeves. Stitch together in an L shape. Re- peat with the other side.

• Fold under the bodice center edges 1/2”. Press flat.

• Pin the bottom of the lining bodice to the bottom of the jacket bodice. Keep the folded edge turned. Line up each edge to just cover the zipper stitching.

• Stitch in place.

Pg. 30 Andover Pullover and Jacket © Terras Treasures 2014 • Do not sew over the zipper seam allowance. If neces- sary, remove a few stitches and restitch.

• Fold under the zipper seam allowance 3/8”.

• Pin in place.

• Fold the lining up and over. Pin it in place along each side, just covering the zipper stitching.

Pg. 31 Andover Pullover and Jacket © Terras Treasures 2014 • Stitch the sides in place and top stitch around the bottom. Pin the lining neckline and main neckline together and baste in place.

• Fold the lining sleeve edges and jacket edges under 1/2”.

• Line up the sleeve lining edges and jacket edges. Pin in place and stitch them together.

• Place the lining hood pieces right sides together and stitch together along the top and back.

Pg. 32 Andover Pullover and Jacket © Terras Treasures 2014 • Open up the hood and align the top and back seams. Align the top opening and stitch shut.

• Take the jacket hood and place it right sides together with the jacket bodice. Extend the hood 3/8” over the front zipper and stitch in place. Repeat on the other side with the lining hood.

• Place both hoods right sides together with the bodice sandwiched in the middle. Stitch around both sides leaving a 3” opening.

• Clip the corners next to the top zipper.

Pg. 33 Andover Pullover and Jacket © Terras Treasures 2014 • Turn the hood right sides out and topstitch around the hood. Sew the two buttons on the bodice.

And You’re Done! • Enjoy your beautiful handiwork!

• Thank you so much for purchasing my pattern. If you have any questions please email me at [email protected]

Pg. 34 Andover Pullover and Jacket © Terras Treasures 2014 Pg. 35 Andover Pullover and Jacket © Terras Treasures 2014 16 2” 14

7 © Andover Pullover and Jacket by Terra’s Treasures 2014 16

2 12

16 10

14 16 12 10 © Andover Pullover and Jacket by Terra’s Treasures 2014 8 6

5T 12

10 4T

3T 7

6 2T

5T 18-24m 5 12-18m 4T © Andover Pullover and Jacket by Terra’s Treasures 2014 8 14

12 6

6 2T

18-24m © Andover Pullover and Jacket by Terra’s Treasures 2014 16 14 12 10 8 7 6 Back 5T 4T 3T 2T 18-24m 12-18m 6-12m

7 6

16 4T 14 12 3T 10 Front 8 7 2T 6 18-24m 5T 12-18m 4T 3T 6-12m 2T 18-24m 12-18m 6-12m

Andover Pullover 8 and Jacket

18-24m

12-18m

6-12m

Andover Pullover and Jacket 10-16 Pocket Guide9Front Cut 1 on Fold (Pullover) Cut 2 Mirror Image (Jacket)

6-12m

On Fold) Cut 2 Mirror Image Mirror 2 Cut Fold) On

(Do Not Cut Front Piece Piece Front Cut Not (Do Tape To Front Pattern Piece Pattern Front To Tape

Place on Fold on Place 10 Grain Line Grain © Andover Pullover and Jacket by Terra’s Treasures 2014 Cut 2 Mirror Image Cut 2 Lining (For Jacket Option) 113/8” Seam Allowance © Andover Pullover and Jacket by Terra’s Treasures 2014 Cut 2 Mirror Image Cut 2 Lining (For Jacket Option)

6-12m

12-18m

18-24m 2T 123T

6-12m-3T Pocket Guide

Button placement Grain Line Grain

133/8” Seam Allowance © Andover Pullover and Jacket by Terra’s Treasures 2014 © Andover Pullover and Jacket by Terra’s Treasures 2014

6-12m 12-18m 10-16 (Cut 2elastic 41/4”) 18-24m 2T 3T 4T 14 5T 6

7 8

Grain Line Cut 1Interfacing Cut 2 Tab and Jacket Andover Pullover 15

3/8” Seam Allowance 3/8”

6-12m 12-18m 18-24m 2T 3T 4T 5T 6 7 8 10 12 14 16 6

7 8 10 12 14

Andover Pullover 6-12m 8 12 6 7 10 3T 16 5T 2T 12-18m 18-24m 4T and Jacket 14

12 14 16 8 10 6 7 4T 5T Tab Guide 2T 3T 6-12m 15 Do Not16 Cut Fabric 12-18m18-24m © Andover Pullover and Jacket by Terra’s Treasures 2014 16

178

6-12m-3T (Cut 2 elastic 3 3/4”)

Andover Pullover and Jacket

Pocket Line Grain Cut 2

16 14

12 1810

208

2118-24m

5T 4T

3T 2T 18-24m 12-18m 7 22 6-12m

© Andover Pullover and Jacket by Terra’s Treasures 2014 Grain Line Grain Andover Pullover and Jacket Hood Cut 2 Mirror Image23 Cut 2 Lining Mirror Image © Andover Pullover and Jacket by Terra’s Treasures 2014 6

2418-24m

Andover Pullover and Jacket Back Cut 1 on Fold Cut 1 Lining (For25 Jacket Option) © Andover Pullover and Jacket by Terra’s Treasures 2014

Place on Fold Grain Line Grain Grain Line Grain 26 © Andover Pullover and Jacket by Terra’s Treasures 2014 © Andover Pullover and Jacket by Terra’s Treasures 2014

3/8” Seam Allowance 3/8” 27

Cut here for unlined hood

Cut here for jacket hood

Cut here for lined pullover hood 6-12m

Andover Pullover and Jacket 27 28Front Lining Cut 1 on Fold (For Jacket Option) © Andover Pullover and Jacket by Terra’s Treasures 2014

Place on Fold Grain Line Grain

3/8” Seam29 Allowance

6-12m 6 12-18m 18-24m 2T 3T 4T 5T © Andover Pullover and Jacket by Terra’s Treasures 2014 8, 10, 12, 14, 16 3T, 4T, 5T, 6, 7

6-12m, 12-18m, 18-24m, 2T For unlined pullover, extend this piece 18” Andover Pullover and Jacket Placket Cut 1 Cut 1 interfacing 30 Line Grain

7 8 10 12 14 16 © Andover Pullover and Jacket by Terra’s Treasures 2014 31 © Andover Pullover and Jacket by Terra’s Treasures 2014 3/8” Seam Allowance Fold on Place