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Home , Cut (clothing), Grain (textile), Overlock, Tailor, Topstitch, Trim (sewing)

Techniques

Taking Shape DARTS ADD SHAPE TURNING A FLAT PIECE OF FABRIC INTO A THREE-DIMENSIONAL FORM TO MATCH THE CONTOURS OF THE BODY LINDA TURNER GRIEPENTROG

ustline, hip, waistline to tummy, elbow and shoulder. Darts can be horizontal, vertical or anywhere in between, straight or curved, but the stitching principles are the same. BThe goal of quality stitching is smooth, pucker-free points that don’t call attention to themselves.

SHAPING A single-point dart is shaped like a triangle, and when stitched it takes a wedge of fabric out of the garment allowing for controlled fullness at the point. A single dart may be on the lengthwise fabric , angled or slightly curved. (1) A double-point or contour dart is diamond or rugby ball shaped, and is used to shape the waistline, leaving fullness at both ends for the bust and hip. (2) A French dart is a curved shape from the garment side to the . This dart has edges joined like a seam. (3)

V9082 Vintage Vogue, 1960. Misses’ A5(6-8-10-12-14) E5(14-16-18-20-22). Sew Rating: Average. Price code Orange. Illustrations: Theresa O’Connell Theresa Illustrations:

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26 SEW TODAY May/June 2019 MARKING to anchor the stitches. (7) and stitch toward the point, Darts are indicated on the along the line, removing the A third technique for dart then repeat for the other tissue by either solid as you get to them. Taper point, slightly overlapping or dashed lines and a dot the stitching to the point the beginning stitching lines at the point. Depending on as you near it, but do not (9). To stitch a French dart, the length, there may be backtack at the point as it can follow the same process intermediate dots along the create an unsightly bubble. outlined above, and join the It’s important to taper the open edges like a seam (10). stitching line. shorten It’s important to transfer stitching line at the point and stitch Because this shape of dart length the dots to the fabric using a not to simply keep stitching is on the bias grain, it’s easy marking method appropriate at a sharp angle, then jump to stretch it as you sew. A to the fabric—from chalk to right off the fold, which will narrow stay tape inserted ’s tacks. Some sewers later create a bubble at the 8 into the stitching line helps opt to simply clip the dart dart end. prevent distortion. stitching is to shorten the lines at the open end of a To anchor the narrow end, stitch length as you get single dart and only mark the 1 TRIMMING AND within /2" (13mm) of the dots along the stitching line. CLIPPING point, then stitch off the (4) Depending on the fabric, it fold and may be helpful to away anchor the some of the dart wedge ends using either method described above. (8) Some sewers actually 6 prefer to there are several schools of stitch darts 4 thought among sewers. Some from the prefer to simply stitch off the point to folded edge and leave thread the wider STITCHING ends long enough to tie (6), section, To stitch a dart, fold the snugging them to the dart tip, reasoning 11 1 1 fabric right sides together then clipping /4"- /2" that it’s matching the stitching lines easier to get bulk. In sheer or transparent 9 fabrics, the dart fold a smooth 1 point than approaching it /4" (6mm) from the stitching from the dart length. line, thus eliminating the To stitch a double dart, begin sewing at the widest portion

7 5 (6-13mm) away. and marked dots. in place Other sewers prefer to simply at right angles to the stitching stitch off the fold edge, then line (5). lift the and sew Begin stitching at the widest several stitches above the dart 10 12 end of the dart, backtacking point to anchor the stitching. continued overleaf

SEW TODAY May/June 2019 27 show-through (11). fold as it’s pressed (14). the stitching line (16). a lapped dart also helps If an overlocker isn’t For French darts, press the SPECIAL TREATMENT to reduce bulk. To make a available, add a second row seam allowances open, and SLOT OR FLAT DARTS lapped dart, cut along the 1 of stitching /8" (3mm) from maintain the fold at the point Stitching a dart in fabrics upper stitching line (or the the first, then trim. Double like real or faux suedes and line closest to the centre for darts need to be clipped at can get quite bulky the widest point to allow with multiple layers on the them to lie flat and shape to garment inside. To eliminate the body (12). bulk, and add a decorative design line to the garment, PRESSING cut the darts on the stitching 1 Press the dart flat, as it was line up to /4" (6mm) from the stitched, avoiding pressing point. (17) a fold or crease at the point. Press a narrow strip of fusible Then use a curved surface, web like Steam-A-Seam2 like a pressing ham, to under both cut edges. (18) 20 15 press the dart into position. Pressing over a ham avoids flattening and creating (15). folds or bubbles at the dart For bulky fabrics, like heavy , slash the foldline to within 1" (255mm) of the point and press the dart open to reduce bulk. On loosely woven fabrics, it may be necessary to finish the cut 20 edges to prevent raveling, using either 18 vertical darts). (20) a seam To reinforce the dart tip, Place a narrow strip of 1 lightly fuse a /2" (13mm) sealant or or other lightweight matching square of matching fabric in a zigzag fabric under the opening and place under the point. Place stitch. carefully butt the dart edges; 13 fusible web along the overlap An press in place. Using a narrow wrong side, then lap the dart alternate zigzag or three-step zigzag, pressing span the dart edges to hold method for them in place or use a straight single-point stitch to each side of darts is to 13 insert a point(s). tiny metal Most darts are pressed crochet with the fold in a single hook or direction—down for 16 heat-

horizontal darts and to the proof bias 21 garment centre for vertical pressing bar into the stitched dart wedge and press the stitching lines. (21) folded fabric flat, allowing Topstitch the overlapping some bulk on both sides of 19

the joining (19). Leave thread ends long

14 enough to tie on the underside. darts (13). To avoid making an LAPPED DARTS 22 impression on the garment Also good to use on real or right side, place a narrow strip faux leathers and suedes, of brown paper under the dart 17 edges in place (22). O’Connell Theresa Illustrations:

28 SEW TODAY May/June 2019 Banish Underlined the Bulk Garments Depending on the fabric, darts pressed to one side may still appear bulky. • To help equalise the 1 thickness, cut a 1" to 1/2" (25-38mm) wide bias strip of fabric or slightly longer than the dart. • Centre the strip under the dart so it will be caught in the stitching. Stitch the dart (A). • Press the dart in one direction and the added strip in the opposite direction along the stitching line, trimming in a shape similar to the dartB (B). ✂ A Handling darts in garments that are underlined can be done two ways. The darts may be stitched separately in the garment and underlining layer before they are joined, pressing the bulk of the darts in opposite directions. V9082 Or, the underlining pieces may be basted to the garments and stitched as one layer. When using this method, secure the layers together with staystitching at the garment edges and baste down the dart foldlines, then stitch the layers as one. When underlining sheer garments, the second method

is preferable as it prevents A B show-through to the outside.

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