Sleeveless Blouse Tutorial by Marianne Jeffrey Adventurousquilter.Blogspot.Com
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Sleeveless Blouse Tutorial By Marianne Jeffrey Adventurousquilter.blogspot.com #sleevelessblousebyAQ Quick and easy to make! 1 Fabric Requirements This blouse tutorial has been written to suit any size; you take vital measurements and decide from several options offered. You will need up to: 2 yards of cotton fabric It is highly recommended you use cotton sateen as it drapes well. However you could use quilting cotton. I have found that a high quality yet lighter & softer quilting cotton such as some of those manufactured by Art Gallery Fabrics or M & S Textiles Australia drape well for use in cotton clothing. Harmony Art Organic Design has fabulous organic cotton sateen, you can buy it here: https://organiccottonplus.com/collections/prints-harmony-art Spoonflower also has a cotton sateen available in their range and offers a multitude delightful fabric designs by indie designers: https://www.spoonflower.com/ Rayon is another fabric option that drapes well but be sure to wash and dry before making the blouse to preshrink! Lightweight linen is also a great option or a linen/rayon blend! In dressmaking it is common for sewists to make a “wearable muslin” In simple terms a “muslin” involves making a ‘test’ garment from cheap fabric such as muslin to perfect the garment size, cut etc before using high quality fabrics for the final garment. A “wearable muslin” is made from cheaper quality fabric than your final garment, so that it is a wearable piece of clothing once it is complete! If you choose to do this you can shop the clearance aisle of large retailers such as Joann, Hobby Lobby, Walmart, Spotlight etc to buy cheap yardage for your test garment. #sleevelessblousebyAQ ©adventurousquilt.blogspot.com Marianne Jeffrey 2 This tutorial uses French seams, you only need a simple straight stitch for most of the seams and a zig zag stitch to finish a few raw edges. NOTE: French seams for the underarm curve will require an additional step to ensure the seam curves smoothly see page 22 for those details. 3 Measurement: #sleevelessblousebyAQ Step 1: Using a tape measure, measure the length from just above your clavicle near the neck to your hip bone this will determine the minimum length of your blouse: Length of blouse: _________________ Measurement 1 ©adventurousquilt.blogspot.com Marianne Jeffrey Step 2: Measure your hips all the way around this will determine the width of your blouse front and back: Step 3: Hip measurement ÷ 4 = min width blouse pattern piece at hip Hip ÷ 4 : ____________________ Measurement 2 Step 4: Measure from your clavicle near the neck to the broadest part of your bustline. Bust dart point: ________________ Measurement 3 4 ©adventurousquilt.blogspot.com Marianne Jeffrey Pattern Drafting 5 Draft your paper pattern! Adding seam, hem, and fit allowance: It is important to add 1” seam allowance for our French seams. Additional width is also added to make the blouse fit easily and some additional length for hemming. • Add 3 inches to measurement 2 • Add 3 inches to measurement 1 Blouse Front Measurement 2 inches + 3 Measurement Measurement 1 + 3 inches Step 1: Draw a rectangle towards the bottom of your piece of paper that has the dimensions of measurement 1 and 2 with seam allowance added as detailed above. ©adventurousquilt.blogspot.com Marianne Jeffrey 6 Step 2: Mark a point measurement 3 to the right of the top of the blouse as shown in this diagram. Mark a point 5 inches in from the midline. Draw a line connecting the two dots. Measurement 3 5 inches midline Step 3: Draw two parallel lines to the edge of the paper as shown in this diagram. This adds the neckline strap allowance. ©adventurousquilt.blogspot.com Marianne Jeffrey 5 inches 7 Draft your bust darts! Many women will need to add a bust dart. Unless you are very flat chested. I add a dart 1.5” from the underarm point. The size of your dart will depend on your bust size, perhaps start with a 1” dart allowance as shown in the diagrams over page. Measurement 3 The bust dart point is added at the center line of your pattern piece and measurement 3 away from the top neck/shoulder line. ©adventurousquilt.blogspot.com Marianne Jeffrey 8 ©adventurousquilt.blogspot.com Marianne Jeffrey Now fold, press and pin your paper dart. Then using a ruler and rotary cutter trim the pattern piece diagonal sleeve line to ensure it is still a straight diagonal line now that the dart is pinned in place! This may trim away a small triangle of the neck strap allowance, don’t worry! When you un-pin your dart the sleeveline will no longer be a straight diagonal line. But as long as it is a straight diagonal line when the dart is pinned/sewn you can easily hem the sleeveline during construction. 9 Step 4: Cut out your pattern! BLOUSE FRONT ©adventurousquilt.blogspot.com Marianne Jeffrey Blouse Back Step 1: Pin the dart the trace around your blouse front, because it no longer sits flat the easiest way to do this is to mark each corner then take the pattern away and join the dots with a ruler and pencil. Draw a line as shown below — 2 inches up from the point and 5 inches to the right of the point. This creates the keyhole back. 2 “ 5 inches 10 Step 2: Cut out your blouse back. BLOUSE BACK ©adventurousquilt.blogspot.com Marianne Jeffrey This blouse has a cute, keyhole opening at the back! ☺ 11 Drafting a pattern for your neckline facing: The facing fabric for the keyhole back is a exactly the same as the 2 inches of your blouse back that is surrounding the keyhole. Make sure you align the edge of your pattern piece with the edge of the paper! Place a piece of paper under your blouse back pattern and trace the neckline. As shown by the two black lines Remove the blouse back and draw a line 2” above the existing diagonal line. This creates a 2” strip that will be the back facing pattern. Cut out the back facing pattern. You can trim away excess fabric from the point of your facing as shown below: 2 inches 2 inches This facing pattern is for the fabric that you can see on the inside of the blouse back keyhole in this image, it allows our back neckline to be a neat, tidy finish, free of raw edges. I add a clothing tag to my rear facing made from selvedge so I can remember the fabric line and fabric designer. ©adventurousquilt.blogspot.com Marianne Jeffrey 12 Cutting Fabric ©adventurousquilt.blogspot.com Marianne Jeffrey Pattern Layout First — Cut a 1.5” wide strip from the selvedge to make the blouse strap as shown over page. Cut line Cut line Fold of fabric Place the blouse front pattern Place the blouse back pattern along the fold of the fabric, pin in along the fold of the remaining place, and cut around your fabric, pin in place and cut out blouse front. your blouse back. DON”T forget to Finally cut the facing piece from mark your dart leftover fabric ensuring you place it on the fold of the fabric as position with shown here: tailors chalk! Fold of fabric 13 14 Blouse Construction ©adventurousquilt.blogspot.com Marianne Jeffrey 15 Attaching your facing! Using a zig zag stitch or serger, overcast all the way around the outer edge of the facing to prevent fraying. I use a zig zag stitch with a length of 1.6 and a width of 2 on my Brother sewing machine. Attaching your facing! Pin the facing right sides together to the keyhole V on the blouse back. Stitch in place 1/4” from the edge. Snip with sharp scissors in towards the stitching at the V get very close but do not cut the thread! ©adventurousquilt.blogspot.com Marianne Jeffrey 16 Fold the facing back pressing as you go so that it lies perfectly inside the keyhole of the blouse back. Topstitch it in place 5/8” from the edge. You have attached the facing!!! Yay! Bust Darts Mark your bust darts with tailors chalk as shown Then fold the dart, press and pin into place: 17 Stitch along the dart fold line all the way to the point. When you finish and lay the blouse front flat it should look like this: See how my blouse front now sits well over the dressfom bust with no gaping around the sleeveline! Bust dart start point Bust dart finish point 18 Hem your sleeve line for both FRONT & BACK pieces this will secure the dart flap at the same time, make sure it is pressed downwards away from the neckline: Wrong side of fabric Right side of fabric So close to finished! Place blouse front and blouse back together right sides out and sew French side seams as shown on page 3: 19 Hem your neckline both FRONT & BACK, be sure to leave the ends open so that your strap can be threaded through! Wrong side of fabric Right side of fabric Thread your strap through the neckline strap allowance. I gather mine as desired on the front only and then stitch it in place at the edge so that I get uniformity of gathering with every wear: 20 Hemming ©adventurousquilt.blogspot.com Marianne Jeffrey The bottom of the blouse must be hemmed before the blouse is complete! Wrong side of fabric Right side of fabric Simple machine sewn hem: Fold over and press 1/4” of fabric. Fold over again this time 1/2” Press flat and stitch along the edge of the hem casing to secure it to the blouse.