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Clothing of Kansas Women, 1854-1870
CLOTHING OF KANSAS WOMEN 1854 - 1870 by BARBARA M. FARGO B. A., Washburn University, 1956 A MASTER'S THESIS submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree MASTER OF SCIENCE Department of Clothing, Textiles and Interior Design KANSAS STATE UNIVERSITY Manhattan, Kansas 1969 )ved by Major Professor ACKNOWLEDGMENTS The author wishes to express sincere appreciation to her adviser, Dr. Jessie A. Warden, for her assistance and guidance during the writing of this thesis. Grateful acknowledgment also is expressed to Dr. Dorothy Harrison and Mrs. Helen Brockman, members of the thesis committee. The author is indebted to the staff of the Kansas State Historical Society for their assistance. TABLE OP CONTENTS PAGE ACKNOWLEDGMENT ii INTRODUCTION AND PROCEDURE 1 REVIEW OF LITERATURE 3 CLOTHING OF KANSAS WOMEN 1854 - 1870 12 Wardrobe planning 17 Fabric used and produced in the pioneer homes 18 Style and fashion 21 Full petticoats 22 Bonnets 25 Innovations in acquisition of clothing 31 Laundry procedures 35 Overcoming obstacles to fashion 40 Fashions from 1856 44 Clothing for special occasions 59 Bridal clothes 66 SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS 72 REFERENCES 74 LIST OF PLATES PLATE PAGE 1. Bloomer dress 15 2. Pioneer woman and child's dress 24 3. Slat bonnet 30 4. Interior of a sod house 33 5. Children's clothing 37 6. A fashionable dress of 1858 42 7. Typical dress of the 1860's 47 8. Black silk dress 50 9. Cape and bonnet worn during the 1860's 53 10. Shawls 55 11. Interior of a home of the late 1860's 58 12. -
Taking Your Measurements \ I / \ I / ' ------/ / ' ,,,__
• 1mp s __ ...,... ___ _. _____ ___ ,,. -, Bulletin 498 / January 1956 / ' : TAKING YOUR MEASUREMENTS \ I / \ I / ' ------ / / ' ,,,__..... --- ------- ./ _,."' / / --- --- 1 -------------- \ \ ' A good looking dress is a well-fitted dress. Achieving a good fit depends upon three things: knowing your own figure measurements, selecting the size and type pattern which most nearly corres ponds to your measurements, and then making any necessary alterations in the pattern before cutting your dress. This leaflet tells you how to take your measurements and provides a place for you to record them. What Is A Well-fitted Dress? A dress that fits you well adapts itself to your body. Ir brings out your good points and skillfully hides your poor ones. You will know a good fit by- Direction of grain of fabric. - Crosswise yarns are parallel to the floor at the center-front and back busdine, and at the hipline, unless the dress has unusual style details. lengthwise yarns are at right angles to the floor at the center-front and back of both skirt and bodice of a dress. lengthwise yarns on the sleeve cap lie in the direction of the arm when it hangs straight at the side . This varies slightly on different figures but in general the crosswise yarns are also parallel are straight in front and back of your arm except to the floor. when special style features, such as extended shoul Direction of seam lines. - Seam lines that ders, requir.e otherwise. lie and hang straight keep your dress in proper li~e The waistline seam appears to be straight around on your figure. -
Instructions-BUTTON-UP-DRESS.Pdf
BUTTON-UP DRESS ISSUE 39 SKILL LEVEL In the Folds patterns are designed to inspire and encourage modern makers to create garments that are beautiful both inside ABOUT CONTENTS and out. Through selected techniques and construction details, IN THE In the Folds aims to encourage thought-provoking and ABOUT IN THE FOLDS 3 memorable making experiences - helping you enjoy each stitch in PATTERNS FOLDS the process. PATTERNS GARMENT OVERVIEW 4 Techniques may differ slightly to the home sewing methods you (INCLUDING FABRIC SUGGESTIONS AND NOTIONS) are used to, but in some cases industrial finishes will give you the cleanest and most professional finish. SIZING + GARMENT 5 MEASUREMENTS Seam allowances are marked on each pattern piece and detailed (INCLUDING FABRIC REQUIREMENTS) in each step. You will notice that in some cases the seam allowances meet each PRINTING THE PATTERN 6 other at different angles at the end of the seam. This is so that PRINTING PLAN 7 when you press the seam allowances open the seams will sit flush with the edges and will help you get a really clean finish. CUTTING YOUR FABRIC 8 In the Folds patterns are designed to include thoughtful Consider using fabric SUGGESTED CUTTING PLAN 9-10 details and interesting techniques so that you can enjoy the from your stash before process of making the garment as much as the end result. going to buy something INSTRUCTIONS 11-20 new. I dare you. If we slow down and take in every stitch, we can better You might be surprised GLOSSARY 21 our skills, appreciate the amazing things we can do with by what you find there. -
“Al-Tally” Ascension Journey from an Egyptian Folk Art to International Fashion Trend
مجمة العمارة والفنون العدد العاشر “Al-tally” ascension journey from an Egyptian folk art to international fashion trend Dr. Noha Fawzy Abdel Wahab Lecturer at fashion department -The Higher Institute of Applied Arts Introduction: Tally is a netting fabric embroidered with metal. The embroidery is done by threading wide needles with flat strips of metal about 1/8” wide. The metal may be nickel silver, copper or brass. The netting is made of cotton or linen. The fabric is also called tulle-bi-telli. The patterns formed by this metal embroidery include geometric figures as well as plants, birds, people and camels. Tally has been made in the Asyut region of Upper Egypt since the late 19th century, although the concept of metal embroidery dates to ancient Egypt, as well as other areas of the Middle East, Asia, India and Europe. A very sheer fabric is shown in Ancient Egyptian tomb paintings. The fabric was first imported to the U.S. for the 1893 Chicago. The geometric motifs were well suited to the Art Deco style of the time. Tally is generally black, white or ecru. It is found most often in the form of a shawl, but also seen in small squares, large pieces used as bed canopies and even traditional Egyptian dresses. Tally shawls were made into garments by purchasers, particularly during the 1920s. ملخص البحث: التمي ىو نوع من انواع االتطريز عمى اقمشة منسوجة ويتم ىذا النوع من التطريز عن طريق لضم ابر عريضة بخيوط معدنية مسطحة بسمك 1/8" تصنع ىذه الخيوط من النيكل او الفضة او النحاس.واﻻقمشة المستخدمة في صناعة التمي تكون مصنوعة اما من القطن او الكتان. -
Sewing Technique: Lock Stitch (Hem 1”)
Sewing Technique: Lock Stitch (Hem 1”) The lock stitch is a hand stitch used for hemming purposes. It gives a secure hold with limited view of the thread on the outer side of the garment. STEP 1: Stay stitch ¼-inch from the fabric edge. (A stay stitch is a single line that is used for guidance and to keep the fabric from fraying. It is a normal stitch length and backstitching is a personal preference.) STEP 2: Fold the hem edge back 1-inch. Press fold in order to make a crease in the fabric. Press fabric 1 again ¼-inch. This press will follow the stay stitch seam. STEP 3: Secure thread to the folded edge of fabric on stay stitch line in order to hide the knot. STEP 4: Moving left, make a small stitch (1/2 to ¾ inch). The stitch should first go through the ¼-inch fold; then a small stitch is made that only goes through the outside layer of the garment. Pull thread gently back through to the inside of the garment. Avoid pulling the thread tight as the needle passes back through the loop created from the stitch. 5 3 5 STEP 6: To tighten lock stitch, pull thread to the left. STEP 7: Continue moving left and repeating step 5 until seam is complete. STEP 8: Once finished, secure thread to prevent it from unraveling. NOTE: The lock stitch can be used in place of a catch stitch. 7 6 Industry Standards for a Well-Constructed Hem: • Hem is level • Hem lies flat • No puckers, twists, or extra bulk • Hand stitching is not visible on correct side of garment • Hand stitches are evenly spaced • Topstitching is even and parallel to hemline References: Readers Digest. -
Tailoring Series TECHNIQUES for TAILORING UNDERLINING a TAILORED GARMENT—Underlining Is a Second Layer of Fabric. It Is Cut By
tailoring series TECHNIQUES FOR TAILORING UNDERLINING A TAILORED GARMENT—Underlining is a second layer of fabric. It is cut by the garment pattern pieces and staystitched to the wrong side of the corresponding outer sections before any seams are joined. The two layers are then handled as one. As a general guide, most suit jackets and coats look more pro- fessional when underlined. Underlining is especially recommended for lightweight wool materials, loosely woven materials and light- colored materials. For additional information on selecting fabrics for underlining and applying the underlining, see Lining a Shirt 01' Dress HE 72, N. C. Agricultural Extension Service. STAYSTITCHING—Staystitch all outer garment pieces before construction begins. If garment is underlined, stays-titching is done when the two layers of fabric are sewn together. Staystitch 1/3 in. outside seamline (on the seam allowance). Stay- stitch “ with matching cotton thread on all curved *areas that may stretch during construction such as necklines, side seams, shoulder seams, armholes, and side seams of skirt. Use directional stitching always to prevent stretching of fabric and to prevent one layer of fabric from riding. The direction to stitch is indicated by small arrows on the pattern on the seamlines. INTERFACINGS—Select a high quality hair canvas for the front and collar of coats and jackets. The percentage of wool indicates the quality—the higher the wool content of the canvas the better the quality. Since a high percentage of wool makes the hair canvas fairly dark in color, it cannot be used successfully under light-colored fabrics. In these cases use an interfacing lighter in color and lower in wool content. -
CO Guide to Judging Clothing
Colorado 4-H Guide for Clothing Judges Standards of Quality Clothing Construction Introduction One of our basic tasks in evaluating or judging is to be able to recognize and identify the standards that give a garment a finished, professional look. There are many techniques that can be used to accomplish the same end product. Each of us has techniques that we like and techniques that we dislike. In an objective evaluation it is essential to play down our personal preferences and to build upon identified and accepted standards. In general, there are some standards that apply to almost all techniques. Almost all construction techniques should result in an area, finish or detail that is: • Inconspicuous o Flat and smooth o Free from bulk o Stitching a uniform distance from an edge or fold • Functional • Durable –stitching uniform and secure Specific standards that can be expected in good construction are listed on the following pages. They are organized by techniques and/or areas, and the techniques are presented in alphabetical order. Overall Appearance Be objective when considering the overall appearance and appeal of a garment. It may be helpful to think about there being at least one especially pleasing feature about this garment, reflecting the many hours of though, effort and creativity that went into its construction. It may be the design, fabric, use of unusual technique or detail. Particularly neat and well-done machine or handstitching, etc. o Overall neatness and cleanliness o Plaids, stripes, checks and other designs matched at seams o Fabric with a direction in design or nap issued in garment in one direction unless garment design requires variation. -
Placket Construction Options
Placket Construction Options 1 Type1: Two Separate Bound Edges on a rectangular stitching box The key to this structure is that the bindings are initially stitched only to the seam allowances on each side, and NOT stitched across the end, of the clipped box, which means that they, and the clipped triangle at the bottom, remain loose and can be arranged before the nal nishing to go on either side of the fabric, as well as either over or under the other, after joining them at the sides. The widths and lengths of the bindings and the space between the sides of the clipped box determine all the other options available in this most exible of all the placket types I know of. Variation 1: Both bindings t inside the stitching box If you cut the bindings so the nished, folded widths of both are equal to or smaller than the space between the initial stitching lines, as shown above, you can arrange both ends at the clipped corners to all go on one side of the fabric (right or wrong side), along with the clipped triangle on the garment. You’ll get the best results if the underlapping binding is slightly smaller than the overlapping one. This can be man- aged by taking slightly deeper seam allowances when you join this piece, so they can initially be cut from the same strip. Or, you can place one end on each side with the Both ends on RS One end on RS, Both ends on WS triangle sandwiched in between. -
Elegant Table Runner H
Elegant Table Runner Designed By Patty Peterson Featuring Kreinik Metallic Machine Sewing Threads Finished size 11.5" X 40.75" ave you ever wondered how you can use the decorative stitches on H your sewing machine? Well here’s a quick and easy project where you can combine your machine’s decorative stitches with beautiful metallic threads and make an absolutely elegant table accessory. Whether you make it for your own home or as a gift, this table runner project will help you see the possibilities of those decorative machine stitches in a whole new light! ! SUPPLY LIST: 1.!!! Kreinik Metallic Machine Sewing Threads (34 colors available). This project uses:! Fine Twist threads: 0001 SILVER, 0002 PEWTER, 0003 WHITE GOLD, 0006 ANTIQUE DK GOLD 2.!!! Kreinik Silver Metallized Gimp:! 0030 SILVER, 0032 ANTIQUE GOLD, 0033 BRASSY GOLD! 3.!!! Size 14 Topstitch needle 4.!!! Sewing or embroidery machine/combination 5.!!! Walking foot or dual feed foot to construct table runner 6.!!! Tear-away stabilizer (depending on your hoop size) 7.!!! Bobbin thread 8.!!! Scissors 9.!!! Kreinik Custom Corder!™ 10. !If you plan on embroidering out the stitches in your embroidery hoop you will need 3/4 yard of Kona Bay, Black cotton fabric !! 11. If you are sewing the decorative stitches you will need!1/2 yard Kona Bay, Black cotton fabric 12.! Background fabric 13" x 44" (WOF) width of fabric (our model uses light weight patterned nylon)! 13.! Backing fabric: Kona Bay, Black cotton 13" X 44" (WOF) 14. !Extra fabric to sew test stitches, such as a couple of 6" x 6" squares 15. -
Lapped Zipper Lapped Zippers Are Often Found on Skirts at the Waistband
Sewing Technique: Lapped Zipper Lapped zippers are often found on skirts at the waistband. A lapped zipper is constructed so that the zipper is not visible. The zipper will remain closed throughout the process of inserting the zipper. All sewing is done on the inside of the garment except for topstitching. Remember to always keep the needle positioned between the zipper foot and the zipper teeth when sewing. NOTE: Throughout this tutorial, the term “placket” will be used. A placket is the fabric that surrounds and reinforces fasteners in a garment. In this instance, the fastener referred to in this tutorial is a zipper. STEP 1: On the wrong side of the fabric, measure and mark the placket opening BASTING where the zipper STITCH will be placed. Do this by measuring from the top of the garment down along the seam to the zipper bottom stop. Take into consideration the REGULAR composition of garment and if there will be a waistband or MACHINE STITCH any other special feature at the top of the zipper. Mark the placement of the bottom stop with a marking pencil. STEP 2: While sewing the seam, machine stitch the seam closed until the marked point of the bottom of the zipper, backstitch, then switch to a basting stitch for the distance of the placket seam. Press seam allowance open. $-05)*/( CONSTRUCTION 6UBI4UBUFJTBOBóSNBUJWFBDUJPOFRVBMPQQPSUVOJUZJOTUJUVUJPO STEP 3: Replace sewing machine foot with a zipper foot. Place zipper face down with the teeth centered on the pressed open seam on the inside of the garment, matching top and bottom stops with marks. -
'L::C Make a Gathered Skirt
H7l.f -·'1~ 'l::c Make A Gathered Skirt CIRCULAR 580 OCTOBER 1964 AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE VIRGINIA POLYTECHNIC INSTITUTE BLACKSBURG, VIRGINIA Make a Gathered Skirt Prepared by MarrJaret Groseclose, Err:tension ClothinrJ Specialist •Many girls like gathered skirts and they Make a Placket • are easy to make. Plump girls look best in 1. Work with the side seam where the gored skirts. When you make a gathered opening was left for the placket. skirt, you learn to make seams, put in a 2. Fold back the front placket extension placket, fit a waistband, hem a skirt, and put to the seam line. Press and pin. on a fastener. You study what to look for in 3. Machine stitch the length of the placket choosing a fabric and how to prepare it for opening 5/ 8" from the folded edge. Stitch cutting a garment. This will help you in diagonally to the folded edge (or seam line), making other garments. catching the back extension. 4. Clip the back seam allowance almost Supplies You Will Need to the stitching line, approximately 1/2" be- low the end of the placket. Include a sewing box, thread to match 5. Press the side seams open. background of fabric, hooks and straight eyes, 6. Two snap fasteners may be used to i:maps, and fabric. The amount of fabric keep the placket closed. needed will be twice the length of your skirt, including 3" for hem plus 5" for waistband. Figure 2 Measure and Cut 1. Straighten the fabric. 2. If you are using 2 lengths for the skirt, cut a 5-1/8" strip across the fabric for the band. -
Stitch Setting Chart
STITCH SETTING CHART STITCH SETTING CHART The following chart shows information for each utility stitch concerning applications, stitch lengths, stitch widths, and whether or not the twin needle mode can be used. Stitch width Stitch length Presser foot [mm (inch.)] [mm (inch.)] Twin Stitch Stitch name Applications needle Auto. Manual Auto. Manual Straight stitch General sewing, gather, pintuck, (Left) etc. Reverse stitch is sewn while 0.0 0.0 - 7.0 2.5 0.2 - 5.0 OK pressing “Reverse/ (0) (0 - 1/4) (3/32) (1/64 - 3/16) ( J ) Reinforcement Stitch” button. Straight stitch General sewing, gather, pintuck, (Left) etc. Reinforcement stitch is sewn 0.0 0.0 - 7.0 2.5 0.2 - 5.0 OK while pressing “Reverse/ (0) (0 - 1/4) (3/32) (1/64 - 3/16) ( J ) Reinforcement Stitch” button. Straight stitch General sewing, gather, pintuck, (Middle) etc. Reverse stitch is sewn while 3.5 0.0 - 7.0 2.5 0.2 - 5.0 OK pressing “Reverse/ (1/8) (0 - 1/4) (3/32) (1/64 - 3/16) ( J ) Reinforcement Stitch” button. Straight stitch General sewing, gather, pintuck, (Middle) etc. Reinforcement stitch is sewn 3.5 0.0 - 7.0 2.5 0.2 - 5.0 OK while pressing “Reverse/ (1/8) (0 - 1/4) (3/32) (1/64 - 3/16) ( J ) Reinforcement Stitch” button. Triple stretch General sewing for 0.0 0.0 - 7.0 2.5 1.5 - 4.0 OK stitch reinforcement and decorative (0) (0 - 1/4) (3/32) (1/16 - 3/16) ( J ) topstitching Stem stitch Reinforced stitching, sewing and 1.0 1.0 - 3.0 2.5 1.0 - 4.0 OK decorative applications (1/16) (1/16 - 1/8) (3/32) (1/16 - 3/16) ( J ) Decorative Decorative stitching, top 0.0 0.0 - 7.0 2.5 1.0 - 4.0 OK stitch stitching (0) (0 - 1/4) (3/32) (1/16 - 3/16) ( J ) Basting stitch Basting 0.0 0.0 - 7.0 20.0 5.0 - 30.0 NO (0) (0 - 1/4) (3/4) (3/16 - 1-3/16) Zigzag stitch For overcasting, mending.