• 1mp s __ ...,... ___ _. _____ ___ ,,.­ -, Bulletin 498 / January 1956 / ' : TAKING YOUR MEASUREMENTS \ I / \ I / ' ------ / / ' ,,,__..... --- ------- ./ _,."' / / --- --- 1 -------------- \ \ ' A good looking dress is a well-fitted dress. Achieving a good fit depends upon three things: knowing your own figure measurements, selecting the size and type pattern which most nearly corres­ ponds to your measurements, and then making any necessary alterations in the pattern before cutting your dress. This leaflet tells you how to take your measurements and provides a place for you to record them. What Is A Well-fitted Dress? A dress that fits you well adapts itself to your body. Ir brings out your good points and skillfully hides your poor ones. You will know a good fit by- Direction of grain of fabric. - Crosswise yarns are parallel to the floor at the center-front and back busdine, and at the hipline, unless the dress has unusual style details. lengthwise yarns are at right angles to the floor at the center-front and back of both skirt and bodice of a dress. lengthwise yarns on the sleeve cap lie in the direction of the arm when it hangs straight at the side . This varies slightly on different figures but in general the crosswise yarns are also parallel are straight in front and back of your arm except to the floor. when special style features, such as extended shoul­ Direction of seam lines. - Seam lines that ders, requir.e otherwise. lie and hang straight keep your dress in proper li~e The waistline seam appears to be straight around on your figure. For instance, shoulder seams set your figure-actually it dips slightly in front, follow­ becomingly and smoothly in a straight line along the ing the natural waist ,curve. top of the shoulder. Underarm waist seams and skirt seams hang Armhole seams make a good curve underneath straight down-no swinging to the back or front. your arm and over the top of your shoulder. They The seam line that begins at the shoulder neck-curve TEACHING • RESEARCH EXTENSION EXTENSION SERVICE STATE COLLEGE OF WASHINGTON Pullman, Washington and follows the underarm seam of the blouse to the your pattern. Also measure from one skirt side bottom of the skirt seems to make a continuous seam across the fullest part of the hip to the other straight line. side seam to get the back hip measure. Smooth lines. - You can expect some folds 4. Upper arm: Drop your arm naturally. to form in a dress as you move. But when you sit Have your friend measure around the fullest part oi stand still, there should be no unbecoming folds of your arm. This is usually in line with the base of or fitting wrinkles at the bustline, waistline, shoul­ the armhole. derline or across the hips. 5. Bodice back length: Measure from the Wearing comfort. - The properly-fitted dress prominent vertebra at the base of your neck straight is comfortable when you stand, sit, or move around. down the back to your waistline. It is snug where fashion demands, but never feels 6. Bodice front length: Measure from the tight or strained. high point on your shoulder, dose to the base of The old system of clothing construction was to neck, over the bustline to your waistline. Also meas­ cut out a dress, try it on, fit, rip and refit. No more. ure from the high point on shoulder to your bust­ Know your measurements; then buy the size and line tip. type of pattern which rnost nearly meets these meas­ 7. Arm length: Measure from top of your urements. This means fewer pattern alterations and shoulder at the normal armhole seam over bent a better fitting garment. elbow to wrist. 8. Back shoulder width: Measure 4 . inches down your back from the base of your neck. Mark Measurements Determine the place with a pin. Now measure from one arm­ Pattern Size hole seam across the pin to other armhole seam. Hold arms slightly forward as you take this measure­ Plan to wear a smooth-fitting, light-weight cot­ ment. This allows for ease of shoulder movement. ton dress or your slip when you have your measure­ 9. Underarm length: Place a ruler flat under ments taken. Be sure to remove the belt and wear your arm as high as it will go while your arm is the foundation garment you will wear with your finished garment. Have a friend help take your measurements so you can maintain normal posture. Watch yourself in a full length mirror, if possible. Take snug but not tight measurements. Use a meas­ uring tape that does not stretch. FIRST, tie a cord around your waist, snugly but not tightly. Then bend slightly to each side. The cord will move to the crease at your natural waist­ line. See where each measurement is taken on the figures below. Take yours and record them on the last page: 1. High bust: Pass the tape around your body, under your arms and over your chest above the fullest part of your bust. Keep the tape straight across your back. This is sometimes called a chest measure. 2. Waist: Pass the tape around your waist right over the cord. Draw tape as snug as you like your garment to fit at the waistline. 3. Full hip measure: On one side hipline measure down 7 inches from your natural waistline. · Mark the place with a pin. Repeat measurement on the other hip and· also mark with a pin. Pass tape straight around your figure and over the pin5. This measurement is taken 7 inches down so it can be compared with the hip measurement given on dropped naturally. Measure from bottom of ruler to your natural waistline. Record Your Measurements 10. Full bust measure: Pass tape around you, 1. High bust under your arms and over the fullest part of your bust. Keep tape straight, and just snug enough to 2. Waist stay in place but still loose enough so you can run 3. Fun · hip measure your fingers underneath it. back hip measure Also measure from one underarm seam across the fullest part of the bust to the other underarm 4. Upper arm seam to get the front bust measure. 5. Bodice back length 11. Shoulder seam length: Measure from the 6. Bodice front length base of your neck to the socket bone where the arm joins the shoulder. This is your normal armhole line. To bustline tip If you put your finger where the socket bone should 7. Length of arm be, and then raise your arm up and down, you can. 8. Back shoulder width easily find the spot. If your shoulders are narrow in proportion to 9. Underarm length your hips, or if they are narrow in proportion to 10. Full bust measure the large muscle in your arm, you may want to ex­ Front bust measure tend the measurement slightly to give a better figure proportion. 11. Shoulder seam length 12. Skirt length: Have your friend take the 12. Skirt length plus hem slcirt measurements as you stand perfectly straight. c. Front ·check to be sure your skirt hangs evenly. Then take the length measurement. in four places: From the 1. 'side front center waistline to the length you want; r. Side from each side and from the center back waistline. c. Back Add a hem allowance to each measurement. You may prefer to take these measurements to the floor and subtract the same skirt length, without hem depth, from each measurement. If you have these measurements, it is possible to complete your dress, even including the hem, · before putting it on. Lesson 2 The four skirt lengths may differ, but don't You will learn about pattern types and how im­ be alarmed at that. Figures are not all perfectly portant they are if you wish to get a pattern which proportioned. The main thing is to have your skirt gives you a well-fitted dress with only a few alter­ hang evenly. ations. Note: You may also wish to divide the waist This bulletin is adapted from a bulletin of the ·( 2.) into front and back measurements, as you did same name which was prepared by the clothing for the hip ( 3.), and the bust ( 10.). specialist of Iowa State College. Published and distributed in furtherance of the Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, by the State College of Washington Extension Service, R. M. Turner, Director, and the U.S. Department of Agnculture cooperating. 5m-1255-litho .