Tailoring Series TECHNIQUES for TAILORING UNDERLINING a TAILORED GARMENT—Underlining Is a Second Layer of Fabric. It Is Cut By
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Convertible Collar Construction
Convertible Collar Construction Directory Click any image to go to that section Yoke/Facing Options: Intro and Gallery By far the most common set-up for a The purpose of this introductory section is to convertible-collar shirt is that it has front facings feature and compare the range of other options and a yoke, and that these two details don’t touch, also, if less commonly, in use beyond this classic as in the example at right. one, before I proceed to work step-by-step through a handful of useful variants . Many other possible That is, the facings don’t extend far enough combinations, and of course, variations on the towards the shoulders at the neckline that they’ll ones here, are conceiveable and may suit your meet with or join to the fronts of the yoke layers. As project better, so feel free to experiment. a result, the yoke construction steps aren’t integrated into the collar steps and are completed, in front at least, before the collar is begun, so the options for using the yoke as a back facing are eliminated. The steps for this classic arrangement are described below in Variation #5, in the Front Facing Only category. Collar Insertion Options Step-By-Step No Yoke or Facings Required Front facings Only Front and Back Facings, or Yoke Used as Facing Variation 1: Collar Applied as Band Variation 3: Collar’s Back Neckline Edge-Stitched Variation 6: Back Facings 1 3 and Facings Secured at Shoulder Seams 6 Options: Options: 1. Edge-stitched neckline 2. -
Londa Rohlfing - Memory T-Shirt
Londa Rohlfing - Memory T-Shirt Londa digs in, filters, and combines men’s collared polo knit shirts and seven dress shirts into strikingly artistic tops so the men in your life better lock their closets! Mannequin 1: The Khaki/Black Shirt Interesting collar edge - how it flows over the shoulder to the back 1. Asymmetrical/Informal Balance - accented with woven striped shirt set in from behind to fill in low neckline. 2. Combination of textures - couched edges for ‘finish’ - more on how to couch later. Yarn ‘connects’ everything, finishes edges. 3. Light hand stitching as center of interest - also on back, and sleeves 4. Bound neckline using knit fabric 5. Even Daddy’s ‘spot’ is OK! 6. Original uneven hemline - bound slits at side seams Mannequin 2: The Periwinkle Shirt 1. Symmetrical/Formal balance 2. Curved line of inset check knit shirt flows over the shoulder/sleeve seam - had to stitch shoulder seams, insert sleeves before working the check shirt ‘fill-in’ at the chest. 3. Reason for lower yoke, to cover up the logo embroidery at left chest. 4. Wider at shoulders always makes hips look slimmer 5. Use of polo collar - wrong side as ‘outside’ to not show ‘worn’ folded edge of collar. 6. Bias is ALWAYS better/more flattering - check shirt inset. 7. ALWAYS stay-stitch neckline edges. 8. Bound neckline finished with bias tie fabric. 9. Bias cut 2 layer ‘Fabric Fur’ + yarn = the trim. 10. Somewhat wild eye-attracting ‘hairy’ Couched yarn connects everything and adds some ‘pizazz. 11. Sleeves - tie label covers insignia at sleeve, bias Fabric Fur + yarn trim connects with rest of the shirt. -
Taking Your Measurements \ I / \ I / ' ------/ / ' ,,,__
• 1mp s __ ...,... ___ _. _____ ___ ,,. -, Bulletin 498 / January 1956 / ' : TAKING YOUR MEASUREMENTS \ I / \ I / ' ------ / / ' ,,,__..... --- ------- ./ _,."' / / --- --- 1 -------------- \ \ ' A good looking dress is a well-fitted dress. Achieving a good fit depends upon three things: knowing your own figure measurements, selecting the size and type pattern which most nearly corres ponds to your measurements, and then making any necessary alterations in the pattern before cutting your dress. This leaflet tells you how to take your measurements and provides a place for you to record them. What Is A Well-fitted Dress? A dress that fits you well adapts itself to your body. Ir brings out your good points and skillfully hides your poor ones. You will know a good fit by- Direction of grain of fabric. - Crosswise yarns are parallel to the floor at the center-front and back busdine, and at the hipline, unless the dress has unusual style details. lengthwise yarns are at right angles to the floor at the center-front and back of both skirt and bodice of a dress. lengthwise yarns on the sleeve cap lie in the direction of the arm when it hangs straight at the side . This varies slightly on different figures but in general the crosswise yarns are also parallel are straight in front and back of your arm except to the floor. when special style features, such as extended shoul Direction of seam lines. - Seam lines that ders, requir.e otherwise. lie and hang straight keep your dress in proper li~e The waistline seam appears to be straight around on your figure. -
Clothing, Conformity, and White-Collar Masculinity, by Erynn Masi De Casanova Trenton M
University of Nebraska - Lincoln DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln Sociology Department, Faculty Publications Sociology, Department of Spring 2016 Review of Buttoned Up: Clothing, Conformity, and White-Collar Masculinity, by Erynn Masi de Casanova Trenton M. Haltom University of Nebraska-Lincoln, [email protected] Follow this and additional works at: http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/sociologyfacpub Part of the Family, Life Course, and Society Commons, and the Social Psychology and Interaction Commons Haltom, Trenton M., "Review of Buttoned Up: Clothing, Conformity, and White-Collar Masculinity, by Erynn Masi de Casanova" (2016). Sociology Department, Faculty Publications. 559. http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/sociologyfacpub/559 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Sociology, Department of at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Sociology Department, Faculty Publications by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. CULTURE , S OCIETY & M ASCULINITIES 8(1) ■ 91 Buttoned Up: Clothing, Conformity, and White-Collar Masculinity , by Erynn Masi de Casanova. Ithaca: ILR/Cornell University Press, 2015. 275 pp. ISBN 978-0- 8014-5418-9 (hb) 978-1-5017-0049-1 (pb) Erynn Masi de Casanova’s Buttoned Up: Clothing, Conformity, and White-Collar Mas - culinity (2015) draws on white-collar men’s discussion of their fashion choices to shed light on how masculinity, work-type, class, race, and geographic region shape their styles of dress. Each chapter highlights a piece of what goes on in men’s heads as they dress for work: workplace dress codes (both official and unofficial), family inspiration, for whom they dress, and the pitfalls of being too fashionable or not trendy enough. -
Instructions-BUTTON-UP-DRESS.Pdf
BUTTON-UP DRESS ISSUE 39 SKILL LEVEL In the Folds patterns are designed to inspire and encourage modern makers to create garments that are beautiful both inside ABOUT CONTENTS and out. Through selected techniques and construction details, IN THE In the Folds aims to encourage thought-provoking and ABOUT IN THE FOLDS 3 memorable making experiences - helping you enjoy each stitch in PATTERNS FOLDS the process. PATTERNS GARMENT OVERVIEW 4 Techniques may differ slightly to the home sewing methods you (INCLUDING FABRIC SUGGESTIONS AND NOTIONS) are used to, but in some cases industrial finishes will give you the cleanest and most professional finish. SIZING + GARMENT 5 MEASUREMENTS Seam allowances are marked on each pattern piece and detailed (INCLUDING FABRIC REQUIREMENTS) in each step. You will notice that in some cases the seam allowances meet each PRINTING THE PATTERN 6 other at different angles at the end of the seam. This is so that PRINTING PLAN 7 when you press the seam allowances open the seams will sit flush with the edges and will help you get a really clean finish. CUTTING YOUR FABRIC 8 In the Folds patterns are designed to include thoughtful Consider using fabric SUGGESTED CUTTING PLAN 9-10 details and interesting techniques so that you can enjoy the from your stash before process of making the garment as much as the end result. going to buy something INSTRUCTIONS 11-20 new. I dare you. If we slow down and take in every stitch, we can better You might be surprised GLOSSARY 21 our skills, appreciate the amazing things we can do with by what you find there. -
2013 Proceedings New Orleans, Louisiana 70 Years of Fashion In
New Orleans, Louisiana 2013 Proceedings 70 Years of Fashion in the Chinese Dress—Exploring Sociocultural influences on Chinese Qipao’s Hemline Height and Waistline Fit in 1920s-1980s Lushan Sun, University of Missouri, USA Melody LeHew, Kansas State University, USA Keywords: Chinese, qipao, hemline, waistline The evolving dynasties and periods in Chinese history have always been accompanied with unique changes in its dress. Under the globalized society today, Chinese fashion has also left its footprint in the international fashion industry through which the world gains further understanding of the Chinese culture. The Chinese dress for woman, qipao or cheongsam in Cantonese, has evolved through a variety of silhouettes and styles under the quick changing cultural environment in the 1900s. Today, it has been accepted and internationally recognized as the distinctive national dress for the Chinese woman. According to the principle of historical continuity, “each new fashion is an outgrowth or elaboration of the previously existing fashion” (Sproles, 1981, p.117). Qipao may be traced back as early as Shang dynasty (1600-1046 B.C.) in a form of long robe, and it has flourished through different cultures and dynasties and periods in China (Liu, 2009). Its most commonly known origin lies in Qing dynasty (1644-1911) in the Chinese feudal society. Elements of both Manchu and Han ethnic dresses contributed in shaping the original qipao style during this time. The Republican Era (1911-1949), a transitional time from the feudal to modern Chinese society, accompanied with revolutionary changes in qipao styles. During this period, qipao was the main site of woman’s fashion and became “a stage for debates about sex, gender roles, aesthetics, the economy, and the nation” (Finanne, 2007, p.141). -
ALDI Textiles
ALDI Textiles ALDI Textiles Guideline 2 Aloe Vera. Recognises the demand all on its own. A Aloe vera micro capsules are attached to the textile fibres using a binder. The friction from wearing causes the microcapsules to burst and release the moisturising substance. The advantage of the microcapsules is the fact that the encapsulated substance is only released when the fabric is mechanically stressed. Through the addition of the aloe vera capsules, the garment hydrates and moisturises the skin. Anti-Pilling. Reduces pilling. A Anti-pilling is a special finishing process for reducing the formation of pilling, meaning lint, in predominantly synthetic materials. This is primarily achieved through a mechanical process or heat treatment. ALDI Textiles Guideline 3 Breathable. Keeps you dry and keeps moisture away. B Breathable fabrics are defined as textiles which possess certain physiological properties which above all wick moisture away from the skin. Such materials may also be water-resistant and therefore protect against rain. See also: Cool & Fresh, COOLMAX® ALDI Textiles Guideline 4 Cotton. The all-rounder among textiles. C Cotton is derived from the soft seed hair of the cotton plant. The plant thrives in countries with a sub-tropical climate, such as the USA, Egypt, India, and South Africa, and in terms of volume is one of the most important raw textiles materials in the world. The quality of cotton wool is dependent on its fineness, strength, fibre length and consistency. See also: Wool, virgin wool, organic cotton, Pima cotton PROPERTIES: It is skin-friendly: Due to its softness, it is very pleasant on the skin. -
Stretching Unprimed Vs. Pre-Primed Canvas for Painting
INFORMATION JUST PAINT SHEETS 8/07 No. 3 Developed in collaboration with Conservator James Bernstein and Golden Artist Colors, Inc. Stretching Unprimed vs. Pre-primed Canvas for Painting Pre-stretching traditional size. A stretched linen canvas by the weave in an unfavorable position. It is itself on a humid day would become taut. wisest to pre-stretch as a separate step. This Unprepared Canvas When there is an animal glue size on a linen aligns the weave as fabric tension is For ultimate fabric choice, unprimed canvas, the animal glue swells and the canvas estimated. If a fabric is very responsive, the canvas offers the most possibilities. The becomes less tight. Conversely, a linen first stretching may be done barehanded artist is not limited by the variety or size of canvas by itself on a dry day would become (without pliers), as the canvas should not fabrics available pre-primed. limp. However, animal glue under dry initially be stretched too taut. Allowance has If starting with unprepared linen, cotton, conditions shrinks and becomes taut. Thus to be left for subsequent wetting and rinsing or other fabric for painting, preliminary the opposite natural behaviors of linen and that will tighten the fabric significantly preparation of the canvas is essential. A animal glue are dynamically opposed and (albeit temporarily). common misunderstanding is that the help hold each other in tow. The pre-stretched canvas should be application of size or ground layer coatings This dynamic is not as well balanced for gradually and uniformly moistened and then will correct or compensate for all sorts of cotton canvas. -
My Bernette Sewing Machine Mastery Workbook – B37
MASTERY BOOK SERIES SEWING MACHINES BERNETTE SEWING MACHINE WORKBOOK For bernette models b37 and b38 ©2017. Permission granted to copy and distribute in original form only. Content may not be altered or used in any other form or under any other branding. TABLE OF CONTENTS Introduction ........................................... 3 Sewing Machine Needles ...................... 4 Thread .................................................... 6 bernette Presser Feet ............................ 7 Stitch Selection ...................................... 8 Securing Stitches ................................... 9 Turning Corners ..................................... 10 Zigzag Stitch .......................................... 11 Blind Hem .............................................. 12 Triple Straight Stitch ............................. 13 Overlock Stitch ...................................... 14 Stretch Stitch ......................................... 15 Buttonholes .......................................... 16 Attaching Buttons ................................. 17 Stitching Zippers .................................... 18 Decorative Stitching .............................. 19 Satin Stitching ....................................... 20 Stitch Combinations/Memory ............... 21 Alphabets ............................................... 22 The information in this workbook applies to bernette models: b37 and b38. Double Needle Stitching ....................... 23 Note: Some exercises apply only to certain models Supplies ................................................. -
Jennifer Brunton 2017
The Zibby Garnett Travelling Fellowship Report by Jennifer Brunton MLitt Technical Art History. The Cleveland Museum of Art, Ohio, USA. th th 9 July – 16 July 2017. Zibby Garnett Travel Fellowship Report Jennifer Brunton 2017 Table of Contents Introduction 1 1.1 Overview 1 1.2 Budget 2 Placement Overview 3 2.1 Cleveland 3 2.2 The Cleveland Museum of Art 4 3.1 Learning Objectives 4 4.1 Day 1: Stretching the First Canvas 6 4.2 Day 2: Part One. Working on a Glue Size Recipe 8 4.2.1 Day 2: Part Two: Preparing a Glue Ground Layer 10 4.3 Day 3: The Second Canvas and WOW! 11 4.3.1 WOW! (Wade Oval Wednesday) 13 4.4 Day 4: Experimenting with Ground Recipes 13 4.5 Day 5: Last Day and Boiling the Third Canvas 14 4.6 Back in Glasgow: Stretching the Huckaback Canvas 16 Conclusion 19 Acknowledgements 20 Appendix 1 21 Appendix 2 22 Appendix 3 24 Zibby Garnett Travel Fellowship Report Jennifer Brunton 2017 Image Credits All images not credited are copyright of the author, with permission from The Cleveland Museum of Art, Ohio. Figure 1. http://www.lib.utexas.edu/maps/world_cities/cleveland.jpg Figure 2. http://www.clevelandart.org/sites/default/files/images/homepage- feature/full/BannerBenefit_desktop.jpg Figure 22. http://www.universitycircle.org/events/2017/06/14/wow-wade-oval-wednesdays Zibby Garnett Travel Fellowship Report Jennifer Brunton 2017 Introduction. 1.1 Overview. My name is Jennifer Brunton, I am 22 years of age, and currently studying for a post- graduate degree in Technical Art History at the Centre for Textile Conservation and Technical Art History at the University of Glasgow. -
Sewing Technique: Lock Stitch (Hem 1”)
Sewing Technique: Lock Stitch (Hem 1”) The lock stitch is a hand stitch used for hemming purposes. It gives a secure hold with limited view of the thread on the outer side of the garment. STEP 1: Stay stitch ¼-inch from the fabric edge. (A stay stitch is a single line that is used for guidance and to keep the fabric from fraying. It is a normal stitch length and backstitching is a personal preference.) STEP 2: Fold the hem edge back 1-inch. Press fold in order to make a crease in the fabric. Press fabric 1 again ¼-inch. This press will follow the stay stitch seam. STEP 3: Secure thread to the folded edge of fabric on stay stitch line in order to hide the knot. STEP 4: Moving left, make a small stitch (1/2 to ¾ inch). The stitch should first go through the ¼-inch fold; then a small stitch is made that only goes through the outside layer of the garment. Pull thread gently back through to the inside of the garment. Avoid pulling the thread tight as the needle passes back through the loop created from the stitch. 5 3 5 STEP 6: To tighten lock stitch, pull thread to the left. STEP 7: Continue moving left and repeating step 5 until seam is complete. STEP 8: Once finished, secure thread to prevent it from unraveling. NOTE: The lock stitch can be used in place of a catch stitch. 7 6 Industry Standards for a Well-Constructed Hem: • Hem is level • Hem lies flat • No puckers, twists, or extra bulk • Hand stitching is not visible on correct side of garment • Hand stitches are evenly spaced • Topstitching is even and parallel to hemline References: Readers Digest. -
That Was a T-Shirt!!! We Need Tops! While Cotton Tops Are Easy to Make, Knit Tops Are the Most Versatile Due to the Forgiving Stretch
That was a t-shirt!!! We need tops! While cotton tops are easy to make, knit tops are the most versatile due to the forgiving stretch. Because of the challenges in working with knit fabric, updating a t-shirt is the perfect compromise. Our goal is to have someone look at our top and say “that was a t-shirt?!” All hemlines need to be removed and restyled and the neckline needs to be either ruffled (size small and some medium) or trimmed. Here are some guidelines that we are looking for. Simply sewing a decorative stitch or zigzag over the existing hemline (sleeves and bottom hem) does not make visual changes to the t-shirt. Please cut off the existing hemline and if you like, you can make it shorter. If you have a serger, you can finish the edge prior to hemming but because the knit does not ravel it is not necessary. You also do not need to turn over the edge prior to hemming. Sleeves Match the sleeves and cut off both hems at the same time. You can cut straight or at an angle and make it a cap sleeve Use a decorative stitch for the hemming, variegated thread looks great! Use either white or black thread in the bottom as variegated thread is expensive. Remember to sew on the right side with your finger on the bottom feeling for the fabric edge. Watch for those sales and coupons!! Sulky blendables, 30 weight, 100% cotton is very nice to use. If you hem with a straight stitch, make it a little longer perhaps 3.0 and add some elastic to make it gathered at the hem edge.