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Convertible Collar Construction
Convertible Collar Construction Directory Click any image to go to that section Yoke/Facing Options: Intro and Gallery By far the most common set-up for a The purpose of this introductory section is to convertible-collar shirt is that it has front facings feature and compare the range of other options and a yoke, and that these two details don’t touch, also, if less commonly, in use beyond this classic as in the example at right. one, before I proceed to work step-by-step through a handful of useful variants . Many other possible That is, the facings don’t extend far enough combinations, and of course, variations on the towards the shoulders at the neckline that they’ll ones here, are conceiveable and may suit your meet with or join to the fronts of the yoke layers. As project better, so feel free to experiment. a result, the yoke construction steps aren’t integrated into the collar steps and are completed, in front at least, before the collar is begun, so the options for using the yoke as a back facing are eliminated. The steps for this classic arrangement are described below in Variation #5, in the Front Facing Only category. Collar Insertion Options Step-By-Step No Yoke or Facings Required Front facings Only Front and Back Facings, or Yoke Used as Facing Variation 1: Collar Applied as Band Variation 3: Collar’s Back Neckline Edge-Stitched Variation 6: Back Facings 1 3 and Facings Secured at Shoulder Seams 6 Options: Options: 1. Edge-stitched neckline 2. -
Cloth, Fashion and Revolution 'Evocative' Garments and a Merchant's Know-How: Madame Teillard, Dressmaker at the Palais-Ro
CLOTH, FASHION AND REVOLUTION ‘EVOCATIVE’ GARMENTS AND A MERCHANT’S KNOW-HOW: MADAME TEILLARD, DRESSMAKER AT THE PALAIS-ROYAL By Professor Natacha Coquery, University of Lyon 2 (France) Revolutionary upheavals have substantial repercussions on the luxury goods sector. This is because the luxury goods market is ever-changing, highly competitive, and a source of considerable profits. Yet it is also fragile, given its close ties to fashion, to the imperative for novelty and the short-lived, and to objects or materials that act as social markers, intended for consumers from elite circles. However, this very fragility, related to fashion’s fleeting nature, can also be a strength. When we speak of fashion, we speak of inventiveness and constant innovation in materials, shapes, and colours. Thus, fashion merchants become experts in the fleeting and the novel. In his Dictionnaire universel de commerce [Universal Dictionary of Trade and Commerce], Savary des Bruslons assimilates ‘novelty’ and ‘fabrics’ with ‘fashion’: [Fashion] […] It is commonly said of new fabrics that delight with their colour, design or fabrication, [that they] are eagerly sought after at first, but soon give way in turn to other fabrics that have the charm of novelty.1 In the clothing trade, which best embodies fashion, talented merchants are those that successfully start new fashions and react most rapidly to new trends, which are sometimes triggered by political events. In 1763, the year in which the Treaty of Paris was signed to end the Seven Years’ War, the haberdasher Déton of Rue Saint-Honoré, Paris, ‘in whose shop one finds all fashionable merchandise, invented preliminary hats, decorated on the front in the French style, and on the back in the English manner.’2 The haberdasher made a clear and clever allusion to the preliminary treaty, signed a year earlier. -
My Bernette Sewing Machine Mastery Workbook – B37
MASTERY BOOK SERIES SEWING MACHINES BERNETTE SEWING MACHINE WORKBOOK For bernette models b37 and b38 ©2017. Permission granted to copy and distribute in original form only. Content may not be altered or used in any other form or under any other branding. TABLE OF CONTENTS Introduction ........................................... 3 Sewing Machine Needles ...................... 4 Thread .................................................... 6 bernette Presser Feet ............................ 7 Stitch Selection ...................................... 8 Securing Stitches ................................... 9 Turning Corners ..................................... 10 Zigzag Stitch .......................................... 11 Blind Hem .............................................. 12 Triple Straight Stitch ............................. 13 Overlock Stitch ...................................... 14 Stretch Stitch ......................................... 15 Buttonholes .......................................... 16 Attaching Buttons ................................. 17 Stitching Zippers .................................... 18 Decorative Stitching .............................. 19 Satin Stitching ....................................... 20 Stitch Combinations/Memory ............... 21 Alphabets ............................................... 22 The information in this workbook applies to bernette models: b37 and b38. Double Needle Stitching ....................... 23 Note: Some exercises apply only to certain models Supplies ................................................. -
I Was Tempted by a Pretty Coloured Muslin
“I was tempted by a pretty y y coloured muslin”: Jane Austen and the Art of Being Fashionable MARY HAFNER-LANEY Mary Hafner-Laney is an historic costumer. Using her thirty-plus years of trial-and-error experience, she has given presentations and workshops on how women of the past dressed to historical societies, literary groups, and costuming and re-enactment organizations. She is retired from the State of Washington . E E plucked that first leaf o ff the fig tree in the Garden of Eden and decided green was her color, women of all times and all places have been interested in fashion and in being fashionable. Jane Austen herself wrote , “I beleive Finery must have it” (23 September 1813) , and in Northanger Abbey we read that Mrs. Allen cannot begin to enjoy the delights of Bath until she “was provided with a dress of the newest fashion” (20). Whether a woman was like Jane and “so tired & ashamed of half my present stock that I even blush at the sight of the wardrobe which contains them ” (25 December 1798) or like the two Miss Beauforts in Sanditon , who required “six new Dresses each for a three days visit” (Minor Works 421), dress was a problem to be solved. There were no big-name designers with models to show o ff their creations. There was no Project Runway . There were no department stores or clothing empori - ums where one could browse for and purchase garments of the latest fashion. How did a woman achieve a stylish appearance? Just as we have Vogue , Elle and In Style magazines to keep us up to date on the most current styles, women of the Regency era had The Ladies Magazine , La Belle Assemblée , Le Beau Monde , The Gallery of Fashion , and a host of other publications (Decker) . -
Tailoring Series TECHNIQUES for TAILORING UNDERLINING a TAILORED GARMENT—Underlining Is a Second Layer of Fabric. It Is Cut By
tailoring series TECHNIQUES FOR TAILORING UNDERLINING A TAILORED GARMENT—Underlining is a second layer of fabric. It is cut by the garment pattern pieces and staystitched to the wrong side of the corresponding outer sections before any seams are joined. The two layers are then handled as one. As a general guide, most suit jackets and coats look more pro- fessional when underlined. Underlining is especially recommended for lightweight wool materials, loosely woven materials and light- colored materials. For additional information on selecting fabrics for underlining and applying the underlining, see Lining a Shirt 01' Dress HE 72, N. C. Agricultural Extension Service. STAYSTITCHING—Staystitch all outer garment pieces before construction begins. If garment is underlined, stays-titching is done when the two layers of fabric are sewn together. Staystitch 1/3 in. outside seamline (on the seam allowance). Stay- stitch “ with matching cotton thread on all curved *areas that may stretch during construction such as necklines, side seams, shoulder seams, armholes, and side seams of skirt. Use directional stitching always to prevent stretching of fabric and to prevent one layer of fabric from riding. The direction to stitch is indicated by small arrows on the pattern on the seamlines. INTERFACINGS—Select a high quality hair canvas for the front and collar of coats and jackets. The percentage of wool indicates the quality—the higher the wool content of the canvas the better the quality. Since a high percentage of wool makes the hair canvas fairly dark in color, it cannot be used successfully under light-colored fabrics. In these cases use an interfacing lighter in color and lower in wool content. -
Impoved Family Manual.Pdf
FORM 7129 . July 7, 1891. Supersedes Form 7006 . DIRECTIONS FOR USING THE 1MPKO),7r,D IAPXIL~q SIXGER st.-AWING ACHINE1 THE SINGER MANUFACTURING GO., NEW YORK. 1891 . DIRECTIONS FOR USING ~ ~- ~ ~~- -~~ e~ == " ~~ ~ . ce ca ~ ~ c . ~~-- ' -- m_--' B . ..................... ~ a 8 w ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ " THE IMPROVED FAMILY SINGER . FIG. 2. ~1E4 __._Stop Motion _.,.Right Lag IMPROVED FAMILY MACHINE, WITH STAND. DIRECTIONS FOR USING FIG. 3. OILING PLACES SHOWN BY ARROWS . AILING PLACES SHOWN BY ARROWS. DIRECTIONS FOR USENG THE 11112er Y rr+peoved Parr,Iiy t4achile. To Oil the Machine. Be sure that every part is clean before you commence to sew. If the machine runs hard at any time, IT IS CERTAIN that someplace has not been oiled. Oil holes will be found for all bearings which cannot be reached without them. Each place requiring oil is indicated by an arrow head in the cuts on the opposite page. The shuttle should be oiled sparingly, but often, if the machine is in constant use ; always be careful to use no more oil than is needed, a single drop being sufficient at any point. If the machine runs hard after standing idle for some time, use a little kero- sene oil or benzine on the wearing points, run rapidly, zvi~e clean, and then oil with the BEST slerni oil, which should always be used. To make sure of getting good oil, buy it at at any of the Company's offices or from its authorized representatives. The genuine oil is put up in bottles which have The Singer Manufacturing Company's " trade-mark " blown in their panel, and bear the Company's label. -
Round 'N Round, We Go Circular Embroidery
Circular Embroidery Attachment Round ‘n Round, We Go (BERNINA Foot #83) Brought to you by: Foot #83 Circular Embroidery Attachment An attachment for most BERNINA (legacy and classic editions) for sewing in circles with any stitch on your machine How to install the attachment: • Within the box you will find a booklet of detailed instructions, the flat metal attachment, a special screwdriver and two flat head set screws (one is a spare). • There is a small screw hole on the bed of the machine, close to the throat plate. The metal attachment has a corresponding hole. Line up the holes, place the set screw in these holes and use the special screwdriver to fasten the attachment to the machine. • Do not over-tighten the screw. • The flat head of the screw allows the fabric to smoothly slide over the attachment. • The metal attachment has a sharp, positioning pin with a rubber cap. The cap protects your fingers from the sharp pin and holds the fabric in place on the attachment. The • The positioning pin is attached to a black tab with grooves. There are notches along the metal bar for locking the pin in place. Positioning Pin • The positioning pin can be adjusted to the desired size circle you want to sew. Press on the black tab to gently slide the setting pin. Do not push or pull on the pin to make the size adjustment because it can become bent or dislodged. What size can I do? • The distance from the setting pin to the sewing machine needle is the radius of the circle. -
The American Lady-Tailor Glove-Fitting System of Dress Making
' : - . fdfl . - . ... • • . 1 i , 1 • • • • i ft) '•-.; r i. # i ' ".. - i ! It r it ; . CvAMDkPS^ fedt Improved and Simplified. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. ®|ap. - ®W'Sl l 1« # Slielf .vGr..2? fc UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 4$ f. L Second Edition.] [Price, Five Dollars, THE AMERICAN Lady-Tailor Gloye-Fitting- System OP- DRESS-MAKING Invented and Taught by ^ • Mrs, Elizabeth Gartland IN HER SCIENTIFIC COLLEGE. KE^nSED, iLLTJSTBiLTED # SlIMIIF'IQjIIF'IEID- PHILADELPHIA, PA. 1884. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1884, by Mrs. Elizabeth in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. : IMPORTANT NOTICE. \K^ To all whom it may Concern : —Only those purchasing this Book from me or my authorized agents are hereby licensed to use my Systems of Cutting and Fitting, set forth in this work, the contents of which I have secured by copyright. And no person shall have any right whatever to sell or teach in any manner, my system, without first procuring from me or my duly authorized agents a license in writing, signed by me, specifying how and in what way it may be used. MRS. E. GARTLAND, 15 SOUTH 13th STREET, PHILADELPHIA, PA. LEADING PARIS FASHION MAGAZINES And they can be had at any time by the single number or by subscrip- tion; post-paid, at the prices given in the following list One Six Three Single Year. Months. Months. Copy. *Aquarelle Mode Weekly 9 16 20 9 9 00 $ 5 00 45c. *Album de la Toilette Semi-Monthly.. 7 25 4 00 2 25 45c. *Coquet Semi-Monthly. -
Analysis of Dress Pattern of Body Fitting Without Waist Dart on Chiffon Fabrics
Advances in Social Science, Education and Humanities Research, volume 242 2nd International Conference on Vocational Education and Training (ICOVET 2018) Analysis of Dress Pattern of Body Fitting Without Waist Dart on Chiffon Fabrics Idah Hadijah1) Endang Prahastuti2) Fashion Technology Department Fashion Technology Department Universitas Negeri Malang Universitas Negeri Malang Anik Dwi Astuti3) Fashion Technology Department Universitas Negeri Malang Abstract— The type of research used is descriptive by using position of the shoulder line that tends to backward qualitative approach with observation technique, interview, through the base of the arm, and the position of the front and documentation method. Objects in this study were the neckline is loose and bumpy". forms of dresses. They consisted of 3 models, each model Similarly, the results of research Prahastuti (2012: 28) consisted of 8 dresses. The total objects were 24 dresses. concluded, there is a difference position of the fitting The results of the study of Dress Model I, II, and III, viewed from: (1) the position of the dress fitting factor, not fit on the point basic pattern women's clothing chartmant system on waist line, neck size, and armscye ; (2) using the waist dart at various body shapes of women. Fayoomy (2014) : “that, the front; and (3) in terms of the position of wise grain in reality there is no such thing as standard or perfect chiffon fabric, used length wise grain. Position of the wise figure, the formulas for constructing basic flat pattern has grain of the chiffon fabric from the waistline until the lower designed and developed for the standard figure”. -
Elejq . 5W4” \/ Inventor
Jan. 29, 1963 ' C..RUBIO 3,075,202 PIN COLLAR STAYS Filed June 13, 1955 8 , \ / 7 3 .ELEJQ . 5W4” \/ INVENTOR. 5. [40 I5 4 Carlos Ruble 3,b75,2d2 United States Patent 0 " 1C6 Patented Jan. 29, 1353 1 2 FIGURE 7 is a plan view showing a modi?ed form of 3,075,202 angular adjustable stay for collars. PIN COLLAR STAYS FIGURE 8 is a plan view showing a modi?ed form of Carlos Rubin, 126 E. 83rd St, New York, N.Y. cross adjustable collar stay, according to the invention. Filed June 13, 1955, Ser. No. 514,840 FIGURE 9 is a plan view showing another modi?ed 2 Claims. (El. 2-132) form of collar stay with unitary main body construction. FIGURE 10 is a front elevational view of the collar This invention relates to improvements in devices for stay shown in FIGURE 9. staying and smoothing shirt collars and the like. FIGURE 11 is a right end-elevational View of the collar An object of the invention is to provide a novel and im stay shown in FIGURE 9. proved shirt collar stay which is carried by the collar in FIGURE 12 is a plan view showing another modi?ed order to retain the collar in unwrinkled form, and with a form of quadrilateral stay of a type suitable for collars smooth attractive appearance. also. ' Another object of the invention is to provide a novel The presently disclosed devices are convenient for main and improved shirt collar stay which may be employed on 15 taining the most attractive and uniform appearance de any type of shirt collar, whether or not it is equipped sired in connection with the wearing of shirt collars. -
PANTS for WOMEN==Fas[1Ion and Fit
n PANTS FOR WOMEN==Fas[1ion and Fit Cooperative Extension Service Oregon State University Corvallis Extension Circular 742 October 1969 CONTENTS Pattern "Selection 3 Fabric Selection 3 Accurate Measurements 3 Pattern Preparation 3 Designing Your Own Pants 5 Pattern Layout and Cutting 6 Marking i . 6 Preparing for the First Fitting 6 Fitting 6 Common Fitting Problems 7 Posture and Figure Variations 8 Pants for Bowlegs 9 Stitching 10 Making Free-Hanging Linings 10 Preparing Waistbands 10 Applying Waistbands 12 Making Hems 12 Fants for Vv omen=-IT ash ion and Jrit ELAINE K. CARLSON Extension Clothing Specialist, Oregon State University Pants have become an important part of the modern wardrobe and may be worn for nearly every occasion. Even though the names and styles of pant-type garments change with fashion, the need for a good fit is always the same. The directions in this circular are for making pants with side seams, zipper placket, applied waistband, and a lining (optional). PATTERN SELECTION marked to indicate center front, center back, and both side seams. Use a three-inch strip of firmly woven fab- The pattern size is determined by the hip size, taken ric, folded in thirds to make a one-inch strip. Edge eight to nine inches below the waistline. This keeps pat- stitch both edges. Use different colored threads to indi- tern alterations to a minimum. Choose a pattern with a cate center markings and side markings. full-length leg, even though you plan to make shorter Record your measurements in the first column of the pants. -
Course Syllabus & Itinerary, THTR 216, Maymester 2015 the Art
Course Syllabus & Itinerary, THTR 216, Maymester 2015 The Art, History, & Business of London Fashion We will explore many facets of the business of style that make London one of the most cutting-edge and influential fashion capitals of the world. Our study will begin with an overview of fashion history and its connection to the fine and decorative arts. We will learn about the origins of Haute Couture, from its roots in England and France in the 19th century, to today’s well known designers and trendsetters who have kept this cosmopolitan city at the forefront of the industry. Dynamic British designers from the 20th and 21st century at the heart of our study, who have continually pushed boundaries and changed rules of etiquette in their quest for fashion to mirror political, economic, and sociopolitical changes in society, include: Charles Frederick Worth, considered to be the father of Haute Couture; Mary Quant and her mini-skirt revolution; Vivienne Westwood and her influence on the world of punk fashion; Alexander McQueen and his creation of artful garments; and Stella McCartney and her ethical, sustainable approach to design. Excursions will include trips to: world renowned museums, to study works of fine and decorative art and historic examples of clothing; theatrical performances, to compare the theatricality of stage costumes and the principles of stage design to both runway and everyday fashion; the Making of Harry Potter, to see how designers create artful film designs; and a variety of commercial fashion venues, in which contemporary