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Convertible Collar Construction
Convertible Collar Construction Directory Click any image to go to that section Yoke/Facing Options: Intro and Gallery By far the most common set-up for a The purpose of this introductory section is to convertible-collar shirt is that it has front facings feature and compare the range of other options and a yoke, and that these two details don’t touch, also, if less commonly, in use beyond this classic as in the example at right. one, before I proceed to work step-by-step through a handful of useful variants . Many other possible That is, the facings don’t extend far enough combinations, and of course, variations on the towards the shoulders at the neckline that they’ll ones here, are conceiveable and may suit your meet with or join to the fronts of the yoke layers. As project better, so feel free to experiment. a result, the yoke construction steps aren’t integrated into the collar steps and are completed, in front at least, before the collar is begun, so the options for using the yoke as a back facing are eliminated. The steps for this classic arrangement are described below in Variation #5, in the Front Facing Only category. Collar Insertion Options Step-By-Step No Yoke or Facings Required Front facings Only Front and Back Facings, or Yoke Used as Facing Variation 1: Collar Applied as Band Variation 3: Collar’s Back Neckline Edge-Stitched Variation 6: Back Facings 1 3 and Facings Secured at Shoulder Seams 6 Options: Options: 1. Edge-stitched neckline 2. -
My Bernette Sewing Machine Mastery Workbook – B37
MASTERY BOOK SERIES SEWING MACHINES BERNETTE SEWING MACHINE WORKBOOK For bernette models b37 and b38 ©2017. Permission granted to copy and distribute in original form only. Content may not be altered or used in any other form or under any other branding. TABLE OF CONTENTS Introduction ........................................... 3 Sewing Machine Needles ...................... 4 Thread .................................................... 6 bernette Presser Feet ............................ 7 Stitch Selection ...................................... 8 Securing Stitches ................................... 9 Turning Corners ..................................... 10 Zigzag Stitch .......................................... 11 Blind Hem .............................................. 12 Triple Straight Stitch ............................. 13 Overlock Stitch ...................................... 14 Stretch Stitch ......................................... 15 Buttonholes .......................................... 16 Attaching Buttons ................................. 17 Stitching Zippers .................................... 18 Decorative Stitching .............................. 19 Satin Stitching ....................................... 20 Stitch Combinations/Memory ............... 21 Alphabets ............................................... 22 The information in this workbook applies to bernette models: b37 and b38. Double Needle Stitching ....................... 23 Note: Some exercises apply only to certain models Supplies ................................................. -
Tailoring Series TECHNIQUES for TAILORING UNDERLINING a TAILORED GARMENT—Underlining Is a Second Layer of Fabric. It Is Cut By
tailoring series TECHNIQUES FOR TAILORING UNDERLINING A TAILORED GARMENT—Underlining is a second layer of fabric. It is cut by the garment pattern pieces and staystitched to the wrong side of the corresponding outer sections before any seams are joined. The two layers are then handled as one. As a general guide, most suit jackets and coats look more pro- fessional when underlined. Underlining is especially recommended for lightweight wool materials, loosely woven materials and light- colored materials. For additional information on selecting fabrics for underlining and applying the underlining, see Lining a Shirt 01' Dress HE 72, N. C. Agricultural Extension Service. STAYSTITCHING—Staystitch all outer garment pieces before construction begins. If garment is underlined, stays-titching is done when the two layers of fabric are sewn together. Staystitch 1/3 in. outside seamline (on the seam allowance). Stay- stitch “ with matching cotton thread on all curved *areas that may stretch during construction such as necklines, side seams, shoulder seams, armholes, and side seams of skirt. Use directional stitching always to prevent stretching of fabric and to prevent one layer of fabric from riding. The direction to stitch is indicated by small arrows on the pattern on the seamlines. INTERFACINGS—Select a high quality hair canvas for the front and collar of coats and jackets. The percentage of wool indicates the quality—the higher the wool content of the canvas the better the quality. Since a high percentage of wool makes the hair canvas fairly dark in color, it cannot be used successfully under light-colored fabrics. In these cases use an interfacing lighter in color and lower in wool content. -
That Was a T-Shirt!!! We Need Tops! While Cotton Tops Are Easy to Make, Knit Tops Are the Most Versatile Due to the Forgiving Stretch
That was a t-shirt!!! We need tops! While cotton tops are easy to make, knit tops are the most versatile due to the forgiving stretch. Because of the challenges in working with knit fabric, updating a t-shirt is the perfect compromise. Our goal is to have someone look at our top and say “that was a t-shirt?!” All hemlines need to be removed and restyled and the neckline needs to be either ruffled (size small and some medium) or trimmed. Here are some guidelines that we are looking for. Simply sewing a decorative stitch or zigzag over the existing hemline (sleeves and bottom hem) does not make visual changes to the t-shirt. Please cut off the existing hemline and if you like, you can make it shorter. If you have a serger, you can finish the edge prior to hemming but because the knit does not ravel it is not necessary. You also do not need to turn over the edge prior to hemming. Sleeves Match the sleeves and cut off both hems at the same time. You can cut straight or at an angle and make it a cap sleeve Use a decorative stitch for the hemming, variegated thread looks great! Use either white or black thread in the bottom as variegated thread is expensive. Remember to sew on the right side with your finger on the bottom feeling for the fabric edge. Watch for those sales and coupons!! Sulky blendables, 30 weight, 100% cotton is very nice to use. If you hem with a straight stitch, make it a little longer perhaps 3.0 and add some elastic to make it gathered at the hem edge. -
About Pins Guide Reformatted Layout 1 2/17/12 11:34 AM Page 1
023-507P8 All about Pins Guide reformatted_Layout 1 2/17/12 11:34 AM Page 1 SELECTING THE PROPER STRAIGHT PIN Select pins according to the type of pin, length of pin, type of pin head, type of metal from which it is made & project for which it will be used. Applique STRAIGHT PINS Applique Short length helps position and hold appliques during hand sewing Ball Point BAll point Rounded tip is specially designed for knits and lingerie fabrics Beading e d long BAll point i Long pin for use on medium-weight knit fabrics u g s BeAding Bridal and Lace n Large head is ideal for lace, open-weave fabrics and beading crafts i p t BridAl And lAce u Extra-fine pin for use on delicate or lightweight fabrics and lace o b Color Ball color BAll a l General purpose sewing pin for medium-weight fabrics l a extrA-long color BAll Extra-long for lofty fabrics, quilt basting & home decor sewing Craft crAft Extra-long pin for heavyweight fabrics, home decor projects and crafts dressmAker Dressmaker General purpose sewing pin suitable for medium-weight fabrics flAt flower or flAt Button Extra-long, fine pin with flat head for lace, eyelet, loose weaves, lofty Flat Flower fabrics and home decor more projects, tips & techniques at Joann.com ® free Flat Button 023-507P8 All about Pins Guide reformatted_Layout 1 2/17/12 11:34 AM Page 3 glAss HeAd SPECIALTY PINS T-Pin A general purpose pin with a heat-resistant glass head used for medium- corsAge & Boutonniere weight fabrics Black and white, pearlized head used for pinning corsage or flower onto Glass Head garment for -
Lesson Guide Princess Bodice Draping: Beginner Module 1 – Prepare the Dress Form
Lesson Guide Princess Bodice Draping: Beginner Module 1 – Prepare the Dress Form Step 1 Apply style tape to your dress form to establish the bust level. Tape from the left apex to the side seam on the right side of the dress form. 1 Module 1 – Prepare the Dress Form Step 2 Place style tape along the front princess line from shoulder line to waistline. 2 Module 1 – Prepare the Dress Form Step 3A On the back, measure the neck to the waist and divide that by 4. The top fourth is the shoulder blade level. 3 Module 1 – Prepare the Dress Form Step 3B Style tape the shoulder blade level from center back to the armhole ridge. Be sure that your guidelines lines are parallel to the floor. 4 Module 1 – Prepare the Dress Form Step 4 Place style tape along the back princess line from shoulder to waist. 5 Lesson Guide Princess Bodice Draping: Beginner Module 2 – Extract Measurements Step 1 To find the width of your center front block, measure the widest part of the cross chest, from princess line to centerfront and add 4”. Record that measurement. 6 Module 2 – Extract Measurements Step 2 For your side front block, measure the widest part from apex to side seam and add 4”. 7 Module 2 – Extract Measurements Step 3 For the length of both blocks, measure from the neckband to the middle of the waist tape and add 4”. 8 Module 2 – Extract Measurements Step 4 On the back, measure at the widest part of the center back to princess style line and add 4”. -
Round 'N Round, We Go Circular Embroidery
Circular Embroidery Attachment Round ‘n Round, We Go (BERNINA Foot #83) Brought to you by: Foot #83 Circular Embroidery Attachment An attachment for most BERNINA (legacy and classic editions) for sewing in circles with any stitch on your machine How to install the attachment: • Within the box you will find a booklet of detailed instructions, the flat metal attachment, a special screwdriver and two flat head set screws (one is a spare). • There is a small screw hole on the bed of the machine, close to the throat plate. The metal attachment has a corresponding hole. Line up the holes, place the set screw in these holes and use the special screwdriver to fasten the attachment to the machine. • Do not over-tighten the screw. • The flat head of the screw allows the fabric to smoothly slide over the attachment. • The metal attachment has a sharp, positioning pin with a rubber cap. The cap protects your fingers from the sharp pin and holds the fabric in place on the attachment. The • The positioning pin is attached to a black tab with grooves. There are notches along the metal bar for locking the pin in place. Positioning Pin • The positioning pin can be adjusted to the desired size circle you want to sew. Press on the black tab to gently slide the setting pin. Do not push or pull on the pin to make the size adjustment because it can become bent or dislodged. What size can I do? • The distance from the setting pin to the sewing machine needle is the radius of the circle. -
Elejq . 5W4” \/ Inventor
Jan. 29, 1963 ' C..RUBIO 3,075,202 PIN COLLAR STAYS Filed June 13, 1955 8 , \ / 7 3 .ELEJQ . 5W4” \/ INVENTOR. 5. [40 I5 4 Carlos Ruble 3,b75,2d2 United States Patent 0 " 1C6 Patented Jan. 29, 1353 1 2 FIGURE 7 is a plan view showing a modi?ed form of 3,075,202 angular adjustable stay for collars. PIN COLLAR STAYS FIGURE 8 is a plan view showing a modi?ed form of Carlos Rubin, 126 E. 83rd St, New York, N.Y. cross adjustable collar stay, according to the invention. Filed June 13, 1955, Ser. No. 514,840 FIGURE 9 is a plan view showing another modi?ed 2 Claims. (El. 2-132) form of collar stay with unitary main body construction. FIGURE 10 is a front elevational view of the collar This invention relates to improvements in devices for stay shown in FIGURE 9. staying and smoothing shirt collars and the like. FIGURE 11 is a right end-elevational View of the collar An object of the invention is to provide a novel and im stay shown in FIGURE 9. proved shirt collar stay which is carried by the collar in FIGURE 12 is a plan view showing another modi?ed order to retain the collar in unwrinkled form, and with a form of quadrilateral stay of a type suitable for collars smooth attractive appearance. also. ' Another object of the invention is to provide a novel The presently disclosed devices are convenient for main and improved shirt collar stay which may be employed on 15 taining the most attractive and uniform appearance de any type of shirt collar, whether or not it is equipped sired in connection with the wearing of shirt collars. -
Simplified Sewing: Hems
South Dakota State University Open PRAIRIE: Open Public Research Access Institutional Repository and Information Exchange SDSU Extension Fact Sheets SDSU Extension 1964 Simplified Sewing: Hems Cooperative Extension South Dakota State University Follow this and additional works at: https://openprairie.sdstate.edu/extension_fact Recommended Citation South Dakota State University, Cooperative Extension, "Simplified Sewing: Hems" (1964). SDSU Extension Fact Sheets. 865. https://openprairie.sdstate.edu/extension_fact/865 This Fact Sheet is brought to you for free and open access by the SDSU Extension at Open PRAIRIE: Open Public Research Access Institutional Repository and Information Exchange. It has been accepted for inclusion in SDSU Extension Fact Sheets by an authorized administrator of Open PRAIRIE: Open Public Research Access Institutional Repository and Information Exchange. For more information, please contact [email protected]. .. ... -~--- - --v · . --,-.-.- , -. ·. ..•, .. ·'··· .••,.,. - .t:\. --(. ......., • ... ·\•i• ....,.,•-•1•,··...- .,.. "\' ·,- • • • -:\. -: ·):.~\:,..,:}:,:.·,:,..,:;:,:.~:,-:-,:.0:.- ·,~\:,.!;;;; ··:,:.\!.t:,-;..:,t;.,:,:,:.i:1:,:.'.:.•; .-·F_:,~::::_:.~:~~~~~;.:::z~:;:'.·---~-~;:~~L ::·.1~~~~1::.:;.:_;~~: File Copy FS244 THE l-lE~I of your dress can have the "professional - Wearer should stand in a natural position with look" or the "homemade look." In general, the best arms at sides and weight on both feet. hem is the least conspicuous, and every step in making a hem is planned with this in mind There are several methods of marking a hem. You may use any one of these: The professional touch is recognize-cl by the follow- ing characteristics: Various types of chalk markers or pin markers - Inconspicuous from the right side Yardstick - Even distance from the floor Tailor's square. - Wide enough for good proportion and to gi\.re With some of these you can mark enough weight to hang well your own hem; others require a - Even in width help«. -
To Complete the Pattern Join Bodice #1 to #2 at Circle Front Bodice #1
To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle Chapter 2 Chapter 4 Chapter 6 Chapter 19 Front Bodice #1 1/2” FACING N CUT 1 FABRIC ON FOLD CUT 2 WITH FACING CUT 2 EXTENSIO INTERFACING USE FOR: GRAINLINE LAYOUT CUTTING FABRIC PATTERN MARKINGS DARTS SEAMS COLLARS CLOSURES CENTER FRONT FOLD To completeTo the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle TO COMPLETE THE PATTERN JOIN BODICE #1 TO #2 AT CIRCLE STITCH TO MATCHPOINTS FOR DART TUCK FRONT BODICE #2 Front Bodice #2 Chapter 2 Chapter 4 Chapter 6 Chapter 19 STITCH TO MATCHPOINTS FOR DART TUCKS To complete the pattern join bodice #3 to #4 at circle Chapter 2 Chapter 4 Chapter 6 Back Bodice #3 CUT 2 FABRIC USE FOR: CK SEAM GRAINLINE LAYOUT CUTTING FABRIC CK FOLD PATTERN MARKINGS DARTS SEAMS COLLARS CENTER BA CUT HERE FOR CENTER BA To completeTo the pattern join bodice #3 to #4 at circle STITCH TO MATCHPOINTS FOR DART TUCKS Back Bodice #4 Chapter 2 Chapter 4 Chapter 6 Chapter 4 Chapter 11 Chapter 14 Chapter 17 MATCHPOINT Front Skirt #5 CUT 1 FABRIC USE FOR: V SHAPED SEAM WAISTBAND WAIST FACING BIAS WAIST FINISH CURVED/ALINE HEM BIAS FALSE HEM CENTER FRONT FOLD Chapter 4 Chapter 11 Chapter 14 Front Yoke #6 CUT 1 FABRIC CUT 1 INTERFACING USE FOR: V SHAPE SEAM WAISTBAND WAIST FACING BIAS WAIST FINISH C. F. FOLD C. F. MATCHPOINT Chapter 4 Chapter 6 Chapter 10 Chapter 11 Chapter 14 Chapter 17 MARK DART POINT HERE Back Skirt #7 CUT 2 FABRIC USE FOR: SEAMS ZIPPERS WAISTBAND WAIST FACING BIAS WAIST FINISH CURVED ALINE HEM BIAS FALSE HEM Chapter 4 CUT ON FOLD Chapter 12 Chapter 17 H TC NO WHEN -
Taking Shape DARTS ADD SHAPE TURNING a FLAT PIECE of FABRIC INTO a THREE-DIMENSIONAL FORM to MATCH the CONTOURS of the BODY LINDA TURNER GRIEPENTROG
Techniques Taking Shape DARTS ADD SHAPE TURNING A FLAT PIECE OF FABRIC INTO A THREE-DIMENSIONAL FORM TO MATCH THE CONTOURS OF THE BODY LINDA TURNER GRIEPENTROG ustline, hip, waistline to tummy, elbow and shoulder. Darts can be horizontal, vertical or anywhere in between, straight or curved, but the stitching principles are the same. BThe goal of quality dart stitching is smooth, pucker-free points that don’t call attention to themselves. SHAPING A single-point dart is shaped like a triangle, and when stitched it takes a wedge of fabric out of the garment allowing for controlled fullness at the point. A single dart may be on the lengthwise fabric grain, angled or slightly curved. (1) A double-point or contour dart is diamond or rugby ball shaped, and is used to shape the waistline, leaving fullness at both ends for the bust and hip. (2) A French dart is a curved shape from the garment side seam to the bustline. This dart has cut edges joined like a seam. (3) V9082 Vintage Vogue, 1960. Misses’ A5(6-8-10-12-14) E5(14-16-18-20-22). Sew Rating: Average. Price code Orange. Illustrations: Theresa O’Connell Theresa Illustrations: 1 2 3 26 SEW TODAY May/June 2019 MARKING to anchor the stitches. Stitch (7) and stitch toward the point, Darts are indicated on the along the line, removing the A third technique for dart then repeat for the other pattern tissue by either solid pins as you get to them. Taper point, slightly overlapping or dashed lines and a dot the stitching to the point the beginning stitching lines at the point. -
Measurement Chart
Measurement Chart NAME: ___________________________________ DATE: __________________ 1. High bust circumference: 2. Full bust circumference: 2a. Distance between bust points: 3. Distance from shoulder/neck point to bust point: 4. Waist circumference: 5. High Hip circumference: 5a. Distance from waist: 6. Full hip circumference: 6a. Distance from waist: 7. Stride (crotch length) plus 1" to 2": 8. Length from waist to floor minus 1": 9. Shoulder length: 10. Upper arm circumference: 11. Sleeve length: 12. Back width: 13. Back length to waist: © The Sewing Workshop Fitting the Bust: Ease Chart Garment Minimum Bust Ease Blouse, Dress 2½" to 3" Unlined jacket 3" to 4" Lined jacket 3½" to 4½" Coat 4" to 5" Fitting the Bust: Ease Chart © The Sewing Workshop Fitting the Back: Ease Chart Garment Minimum Back Ease Blouse, Dress ½" to 1" Jacket 1" Coat 1" to 2" Fitting the Back: Ease Chart © The Sewing Workshop Fitting Sleeves: Ease Chart Garment Minimum Upper Arm Ease Blouse 1" to 1½" Dress 1½" to 2" Unlined jacket 3" to 4" Lined jacket 3" to 4½" Coat 4" to 5½" Fitting Sleeves: Ease Chart © The Sewing Workshop Fitting Pants: Ease Chart Minimum Pants Ease Waist 1" to 2" Hip 2" - Fitted Pants 4" - Elastic Waist Pants Crotch Length 1" - If hips are less than 37" 1½" - If hips are 37"-40" 2" - If hips are 40" or more Fitting Pants: Ease Chart © The Sewing Workshop How to Measure For Successful Fitting by Linda Lee Tips! Tips! Tips! Gather Your Tools Know Your Notions Two very specific tools are recommended: Elastic - Use 1”-wide Stretchrite woven polyester flat non-roll elastic.