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Convertible Collar Construction
Convertible Collar Construction Directory Click any image to go to that section Yoke/Facing Options: Intro and Gallery By far the most common set-up for a The purpose of this introductory section is to convertible-collar shirt is that it has front facings feature and compare the range of other options and a yoke, and that these two details don’t touch, also, if less commonly, in use beyond this classic as in the example at right. one, before I proceed to work step-by-step through a handful of useful variants . Many other possible That is, the facings don’t extend far enough combinations, and of course, variations on the towards the shoulders at the neckline that they’ll ones here, are conceiveable and may suit your meet with or join to the fronts of the yoke layers. As project better, so feel free to experiment. a result, the yoke construction steps aren’t integrated into the collar steps and are completed, in front at least, before the collar is begun, so the options for using the yoke as a back facing are eliminated. The steps for this classic arrangement are described below in Variation #5, in the Front Facing Only category. Collar Insertion Options Step-By-Step No Yoke or Facings Required Front facings Only Front and Back Facings, or Yoke Used as Facing Variation 1: Collar Applied as Band Variation 3: Collar’s Back Neckline Edge-Stitched Variation 6: Back Facings 1 3 and Facings Secured at Shoulder Seams 6 Options: Options: 1. Edge-stitched neckline 2. -
Sewing Machine Decorative Stitches
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Schmetz Needle Guide
NEEDLE GUIDE Needle Anatomy Butt: The beveled end allows easy insertion in the needle bar. Shank: Household needles have a flat shank, while commercial and industrial needles have round, threaded, notched or other special shanks. Shanks allow perfect positioning of the needle in the sewing machine needle bar. Shoulder: The sloping area transitioning between the shank and blade. Schmetz color codes appear on the shoulder. Blade: Needle size is determined by the blade diameter (i.e., size 75 is .75mm) Groove: The groove cradles and guides thread to the eye. The length and size of the groove vary according to needle type. Scarf: The indentation above the eye that allows the bobbin hook to smoothly grab the thread under the throat plate to create a stitch. The shape and size of the scarf vary according to needle type. Eye: The hole through which thread passes. The shape and size of the eye vary according to needle type. Point and Tip: Length, shape and size vary according to needle types. Change Your Needle 130/705 H Damaged or worn needles result in: Household sewing machines require a needle with a flattened shank. All needles in this system have a flattened shank for perfect needle • Broken or shredded threads positioning in the needle bar in relation to the hook. • Skipped stitches • Puckered fabrics • Damaged fabrics Schmetz Works with All Sewing Machines! • Uneven threads Schmetz needles work with all new, current and older household sewing machines! Replace Your Needle It’s the easiest way to How to Read a Needle Package improve your stitch quality. -
Islander Sewing Systems: Tuesdays at Two with Janet Pray and Jessica
Islander Sewing Systems: Tuesdays at Two With Janet Pray and Jessica Johnson Index Through June 2019 Subject Type Topics Video Date Alterations Charge at least $10 to hem a pair of pants October 2, 2018 Alterations Tip If asked to hem pants or sew on a button, show the person who asked how October 2, 2018 Alterations Learn how to do alterations for any figure "flaws" and make it a priority for April 9, 2019 one's sewing education Alterations One can just say no to requests for alterations. Give the person who asks for October 2, 2018 alterations a high price; the individual will accept or say no. If one accepts alterations, do it under your conditions Batting Tip Use two layers of Insulbrite or similar batting with a silver backing, not one December 18, 2018 layer. Temporarily adher fabric to back, quilt top, and then put on the binding Bias Tape Maker Demo Make bias tape strip twice as wide as needed using iron and Simplicity Bias July 10, 2018 Tape Maker Books & DVDs Connie Crawford's Patternmaking Made Easy is a textbook, but filled with 3/27/18 & 11/13/2018 good information Books & DVDs Easy Zipper class is available online or on DVD and includes five different 4/24/18 & 8/28/2018 zipper techniques. The class is also on SewBetter.com Books & DVDs Fitting and Pattern Alteration by Elizabeth Leichty and Judith Rasband is an 5/15/2018 & 5/30/18 excellent resource, or take a class from Lorraine Henry Books & DVDs Gail Yellen's It's All About Embelishments is a good resource for decorative April 24, 2018 serger techniques. -
My Bernette Sewing Machine Mastery Workbook – B37
MASTERY BOOK SERIES SEWING MACHINES BERNETTE SEWING MACHINE WORKBOOK For bernette models b37 and b38 ©2017. Permission granted to copy and distribute in original form only. Content may not be altered or used in any other form or under any other branding. TABLE OF CONTENTS Introduction ........................................... 3 Sewing Machine Needles ...................... 4 Thread .................................................... 6 bernette Presser Feet ............................ 7 Stitch Selection ...................................... 8 Securing Stitches ................................... 9 Turning Corners ..................................... 10 Zigzag Stitch .......................................... 11 Blind Hem .............................................. 12 Triple Straight Stitch ............................. 13 Overlock Stitch ...................................... 14 Stretch Stitch ......................................... 15 Buttonholes .......................................... 16 Attaching Buttons ................................. 17 Stitching Zippers .................................... 18 Decorative Stitching .............................. 19 Satin Stitching ....................................... 20 Stitch Combinations/Memory ............... 21 Alphabets ............................................... 22 The information in this workbook applies to bernette models: b37 and b38. Double Needle Stitching ....................... 23 Note: Some exercises apply only to certain models Supplies ................................................. -
Bobbinwork Basics by Jill Danklefsen
SPECIAL CLASSROOM EDITION BOBBINWORK BASICS BY JILL DANKLEFSEN obbinwork is a technique that places heavy decorative 4. The type of stitch chosen as well as the type of “bobbin yarn” Bthreads on the surface of the fabric, sewn as machine-fed selected will dictate how loose the tension needs to be adjusted decorative stitches or as freemotion stitches. Typically, these on the bobbin case. threads, yarns, and cords are too large to fit through the eye of the sewing machine needle. So, in order to achieve a “stitched 5. Remember the rule of tension adjustment --“Righty, Tighty -- look”, you sew with the heavy decorative thread wound onto a Lefty, Loosey” bobbin and placed in the bobbin case of the machine. 6. Use a “construction quality” thread on the “topside” of your machine, as the needle tension will usually be increased. Think of the top thread as literally pulling the “bobbin yarn” into place to form the stitch pattern. 7. Bobbins can be wound by hand or by machine. Whenever possible, wind the bobbin using the bobbin winder mechanism on the machine. This will properly tension the “bobbin yarn” for a better stitch quality. 8. Bobbinwork can be sewn with the Feed dogs up or down. If stitching freemotion, a layer of additional stabilizer or the use of a machine embroidery hoop may be necessary. 9. Select the proper presser foot for the particular bobbinwork YARNS AND THREADS SUITABLE FOR BOBBINWORK technique being sewn. When working with the heavier “bobbin yarns”, the stitches produced will be thicker. Consider selecting • Yarns (thinner types, often a foot with a large indentation underneath it, such as Foot used for knitting machines) #20/#20C.This foot will ride over the stitching much better. -
Tailoring Series TECHNIQUES for TAILORING UNDERLINING a TAILORED GARMENT—Underlining Is a Second Layer of Fabric. It Is Cut By
tailoring series TECHNIQUES FOR TAILORING UNDERLINING A TAILORED GARMENT—Underlining is a second layer of fabric. It is cut by the garment pattern pieces and staystitched to the wrong side of the corresponding outer sections before any seams are joined. The two layers are then handled as one. As a general guide, most suit jackets and coats look more pro- fessional when underlined. Underlining is especially recommended for lightweight wool materials, loosely woven materials and light- colored materials. For additional information on selecting fabrics for underlining and applying the underlining, see Lining a Shirt 01' Dress HE 72, N. C. Agricultural Extension Service. STAYSTITCHING—Staystitch all outer garment pieces before construction begins. If garment is underlined, stays-titching is done when the two layers of fabric are sewn together. Staystitch 1/3 in. outside seamline (on the seam allowance). Stay- stitch “ with matching cotton thread on all curved *areas that may stretch during construction such as necklines, side seams, shoulder seams, armholes, and side seams of skirt. Use directional stitching always to prevent stretching of fabric and to prevent one layer of fabric from riding. The direction to stitch is indicated by small arrows on the pattern on the seamlines. INTERFACINGS—Select a high quality hair canvas for the front and collar of coats and jackets. The percentage of wool indicates the quality—the higher the wool content of the canvas the better the quality. Since a high percentage of wool makes the hair canvas fairly dark in color, it cannot be used successfully under light-colored fabrics. In these cases use an interfacing lighter in color and lower in wool content. -
About Pins Guide Reformatted Layout 1 2/17/12 11:34 AM Page 1
023-507P8 All about Pins Guide reformatted_Layout 1 2/17/12 11:34 AM Page 1 SELECTING THE PROPER STRAIGHT PIN Select pins according to the type of pin, length of pin, type of pin head, type of metal from which it is made & project for which it will be used. Applique STRAIGHT PINS Applique Short length helps position and hold appliques during hand sewing Ball Point BAll point Rounded tip is specially designed for knits and lingerie fabrics Beading e d long BAll point i Long pin for use on medium-weight knit fabrics u g s BeAding Bridal and Lace n Large head is ideal for lace, open-weave fabrics and beading crafts i p t BridAl And lAce u Extra-fine pin for use on delicate or lightweight fabrics and lace o b Color Ball color BAll a l General purpose sewing pin for medium-weight fabrics l a extrA-long color BAll Extra-long for lofty fabrics, quilt basting & home decor sewing Craft crAft Extra-long pin for heavyweight fabrics, home decor projects and crafts dressmAker Dressmaker General purpose sewing pin suitable for medium-weight fabrics flAt flower or flAt Button Extra-long, fine pin with flat head for lace, eyelet, loose weaves, lofty Flat Flower fabrics and home decor more projects, tips & techniques at Joann.com ® free Flat Button 023-507P8 All about Pins Guide reformatted_Layout 1 2/17/12 11:34 AM Page 3 glAss HeAd SPECIALTY PINS T-Pin A general purpose pin with a heat-resistant glass head used for medium- corsAge & Boutonniere weight fabrics Black and white, pearlized head used for pinning corsage or flower onto Glass Head garment for -
Impoved Family Manual.Pdf
FORM 7129 . July 7, 1891. Supersedes Form 7006 . DIRECTIONS FOR USING THE 1MPKO),7r,D IAPXIL~q SIXGER st.-AWING ACHINE1 THE SINGER MANUFACTURING GO., NEW YORK. 1891 . DIRECTIONS FOR USING ~ ~- ~ ~~- -~~ e~ == " ~~ ~ . ce ca ~ ~ c . ~~-- ' -- m_--' B . ..................... ~ a 8 w ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ " THE IMPROVED FAMILY SINGER . FIG. 2. ~1E4 __._Stop Motion _.,.Right Lag IMPROVED FAMILY MACHINE, WITH STAND. DIRECTIONS FOR USING FIG. 3. OILING PLACES SHOWN BY ARROWS . AILING PLACES SHOWN BY ARROWS. DIRECTIONS FOR USENG THE 11112er Y rr+peoved Parr,Iiy t4achile. To Oil the Machine. Be sure that every part is clean before you commence to sew. If the machine runs hard at any time, IT IS CERTAIN that someplace has not been oiled. Oil holes will be found for all bearings which cannot be reached without them. Each place requiring oil is indicated by an arrow head in the cuts on the opposite page. The shuttle should be oiled sparingly, but often, if the machine is in constant use ; always be careful to use no more oil than is needed, a single drop being sufficient at any point. If the machine runs hard after standing idle for some time, use a little kero- sene oil or benzine on the wearing points, run rapidly, zvi~e clean, and then oil with the BEST slerni oil, which should always be used. To make sure of getting good oil, buy it at at any of the Company's offices or from its authorized representatives. The genuine oil is put up in bottles which have The Singer Manufacturing Company's " trade-mark " blown in their panel, and bear the Company's label. -
Comparison of Household Sewing Machine Needle Features
Comparison of household sewing machine needle features The Universal Needle is often used as a standard needle for all types of sewing projects because it allows easy processing of many materials. For those who sew a lot and place greater demands on seam quality, SCHMETZ offers a diverse range of special household sewing machine needles. The needle designations already provide indications on the respective fields of application. This overview additionally shows detailed information on the characteristics of household sewing machine needles compared to the Universal Needle. Basic characteristics of sewing machine needles Comparison of household sewing machine needle features Features Needle size Canu System Needle Shank Butt Eye Eye Scarf Transition Flatte- Point style Surface Special feature NM NM NM NM NM NM NM NM NM NM type diameter to eye length width scarf to ning 60 65 70 75 80 90 100 110 120 130 A O1 O2 O3 eye U1 22:15 2 130/705 H Universal 2.04 33.9 regular regular regular regular regular slightly rounded nickel •••••••••• Needle 22:15FB2 130/705 H SUK Jersey 2.04 33.9 regular regular regular regular regular medium ball nickel •••• Needle point 22:80FB2 130/705 H-S Stretch 2.04 33.9 shorter narrow deeper special reduced medium ball nickel ••• Needle point 22:82FB1 HAx1 SP Super 2.04 33.9 shorter wide special special reduced medium ball chrome reinforced blade, ••• Stretch point enlarged eye and groove Needle 22:30FB2 130/705 H-J Jeans 2.04 33.9 regular regular regular regular regular medium ball nickel reinforced blade ••••• Needle -
4-H Fibres and Fabrics Series Discovering Tops and Bottoms
4-H Fibres and Fabrics Series Discovering Tops and Bottoms Introduction Sewing is a creative way to design and make your own style of clothing. Now that you have learned basic skills from Exploring Fibres and Fabrics, it is time to get creative and plan a sewing project. Learning to do by doing is the perfect way to learn new sewing Table of Contents techniques. Introduction 1 To be an expert at something you must always be continuing to learn more Project Summary 2 technical skills. The more skills you have the more interesting and the Skill Builder 1: more creative you can be with your sewing. In this project you will learn Ready . 3 about specialty fabrics and how to identify their fibre content, about interfacings, sewing machine needles, pressing tools, and fabric care. Skill Builder 2: 6 Set . You will be doing lots of interesting hands on activities that will teach you Skill Builder 3: 10 more sewing skills. You will complete this project by sewing your very own Sew! Top and Bottom. Skill Builder 4: 13 Sewing Techniques Skill Builder 5: 16 Sew Some More Skill Builder 6: 19 Voila! Sew Much Fun Showcase 25 This Sew Much Fun box will appear throughout the man- Challenge ual. Check out the great website link ideas wherever you Portfolio Page 27 see Sew Much Fun. These links will lead you to fun online content to help you with your 4-H project. - Draft 2009 - Meet Needles! Needles knows lots of stuff! Needles will tell you neat and Learning is 3D! important information To help you get the most out of throughout your manual. -
Elejq . 5W4” \/ Inventor
Jan. 29, 1963 ' C..RUBIO 3,075,202 PIN COLLAR STAYS Filed June 13, 1955 8 , \ / 7 3 .ELEJQ . 5W4” \/ INVENTOR. 5. [40 I5 4 Carlos Ruble 3,b75,2d2 United States Patent 0 " 1C6 Patented Jan. 29, 1353 1 2 FIGURE 7 is a plan view showing a modi?ed form of 3,075,202 angular adjustable stay for collars. PIN COLLAR STAYS FIGURE 8 is a plan view showing a modi?ed form of Carlos Rubin, 126 E. 83rd St, New York, N.Y. cross adjustable collar stay, according to the invention. Filed June 13, 1955, Ser. No. 514,840 FIGURE 9 is a plan view showing another modi?ed 2 Claims. (El. 2-132) form of collar stay with unitary main body construction. FIGURE 10 is a front elevational view of the collar This invention relates to improvements in devices for stay shown in FIGURE 9. staying and smoothing shirt collars and the like. FIGURE 11 is a right end-elevational View of the collar An object of the invention is to provide a novel and im stay shown in FIGURE 9. proved shirt collar stay which is carried by the collar in FIGURE 12 is a plan view showing another modi?ed order to retain the collar in unwrinkled form, and with a form of quadrilateral stay of a type suitable for collars smooth attractive appearance. also. ' Another object of the invention is to provide a novel The presently disclosed devices are convenient for main and improved shirt collar stay which may be employed on 15 taining the most attractive and uniform appearance de any type of shirt collar, whether or not it is equipped sired in connection with the wearing of shirt collars.