Rachel (BL50A) Instruction and Reference Guide
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Cora Ginsburg Llc Titi Halle Owner
CoraGinsburg-11/2006.qxd 11/22/06 11:26 AM Page 1 CORA GINSBURG LLC TITI HALLE OWNER A Catalogue of exquisite & rare works of art including 17th to 20th century costume textiles & needlework Winter 2006 by appointment 19 East 74th Street tel 212-744-1352 New York, NY 10021 fax 212-879-1601 www.coraginsburg.com [email protected] EMBROIDERED LINEN FOREHEAD CLOTH English, ca. 1610 Triangular in shape and lavishly embellished, a forehead cloth—also called a cross-cloth or crosset—was a feminine accessory sometimes worn with a coif, an informal type of cap. Rare after the mid-seventeenth century, forehead cloths first appeared in conjunction with the coif around 1580; embroidered with patterns to match, they were worn around the forehead and draped over the coif with the point facing backwards. Though the occasions on which a lady might wear a forehead cloth are not fully known, it seems that they were used for bedside receptions and in times of sickness. In his 1617 travels through Ireland, English author Fynes Moryson observed that, “Many weare such crosse-clothes or forehead clothes as our women use when they are sicke.” The remarkable embroidery seen here shows the practiced hand of a professional. Much fine needlework was accomplished domestically in sixteenth- and seventeenth-century England, but there were also workshops and skilled individuals that catered to the luxury trade. The Broderers’ Company, an organization for professional needleworkers, was founded under Royal Charter in 1561; specialists were also retained for wealthy private households, and journeymen embroiderers were hired as necessity demanded. -
Sewing Machine Decorative Stitches
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Schmetz Needle Guide
NEEDLE GUIDE Needle Anatomy Butt: The beveled end allows easy insertion in the needle bar. Shank: Household needles have a flat shank, while commercial and industrial needles have round, threaded, notched or other special shanks. Shanks allow perfect positioning of the needle in the sewing machine needle bar. Shoulder: The sloping area transitioning between the shank and blade. Schmetz color codes appear on the shoulder. Blade: Needle size is determined by the blade diameter (i.e., size 75 is .75mm) Groove: The groove cradles and guides thread to the eye. The length and size of the groove vary according to needle type. Scarf: The indentation above the eye that allows the bobbin hook to smoothly grab the thread under the throat plate to create a stitch. The shape and size of the scarf vary according to needle type. Eye: The hole through which thread passes. The shape and size of the eye vary according to needle type. Point and Tip: Length, shape and size vary according to needle types. Change Your Needle 130/705 H Damaged or worn needles result in: Household sewing machines require a needle with a flattened shank. All needles in this system have a flattened shank for perfect needle • Broken or shredded threads positioning in the needle bar in relation to the hook. • Skipped stitches • Puckered fabrics • Damaged fabrics Schmetz Works with All Sewing Machines! • Uneven threads Schmetz needles work with all new, current and older household sewing machines! Replace Your Needle It’s the easiest way to How to Read a Needle Package improve your stitch quality. -
Islander Sewing Systems: Tuesdays at Two with Janet Pray and Jessica
Islander Sewing Systems: Tuesdays at Two With Janet Pray and Jessica Johnson Index Through June 2019 Subject Type Topics Video Date Alterations Charge at least $10 to hem a pair of pants October 2, 2018 Alterations Tip If asked to hem pants or sew on a button, show the person who asked how October 2, 2018 Alterations Learn how to do alterations for any figure "flaws" and make it a priority for April 9, 2019 one's sewing education Alterations One can just say no to requests for alterations. Give the person who asks for October 2, 2018 alterations a high price; the individual will accept or say no. If one accepts alterations, do it under your conditions Batting Tip Use two layers of Insulbrite or similar batting with a silver backing, not one December 18, 2018 layer. Temporarily adher fabric to back, quilt top, and then put on the binding Bias Tape Maker Demo Make bias tape strip twice as wide as needed using iron and Simplicity Bias July 10, 2018 Tape Maker Books & DVDs Connie Crawford's Patternmaking Made Easy is a textbook, but filled with 3/27/18 & 11/13/2018 good information Books & DVDs Easy Zipper class is available online or on DVD and includes five different 4/24/18 & 8/28/2018 zipper techniques. The class is also on SewBetter.com Books & DVDs Fitting and Pattern Alteration by Elizabeth Leichty and Judith Rasband is an 5/15/2018 & 5/30/18 excellent resource, or take a class from Lorraine Henry Books & DVDs Gail Yellen's It's All About Embelishments is a good resource for decorative April 24, 2018 serger techniques. -
23. Embroidery As an Embellishment in Fabric Decoration
EMBROIDERY AS AN EMBELLISHMENT IN FABRIC DECORATION By OLOWOOKERE PETER OLADIPO Department of Fine and Applied Arts, Federal College of Education, Osiele, Abeokuta. Abstract Nigeria is endowed with abundant human, natural and material resources, which could be used in different vocational practices. Practitioners have consistently practiced their art with attention to uniqueness and high quality forms, styles and content. Embroidery as a decorative process in Art has played principal roles in entrepreneurship development. Hence, this paper made a critical analysis of the forms, content and significant of embroidery in art, the thread colours, fabric motifs and pattern suitable for a successful embroidery design would also be considered. The general conclusion is that if embroidery is properly done, it would increase the embroiderers sense of creativity in our societal growth and the interested individual should be encourage to learn the craft so that the tradition will remain forever. Embroidery is an interesting stitching technique by which coloured threads, generally of silk or wool are used with a special needle to make a variety of stitches, and it is used to make an attractive design on garment, wall hanging or upholstery pieces. In Nigeria today, embroidery clothing are used far and wide and its unique feature and elegance remain the ability to trill and appeal to the people’s fervent love for it whereby the artisan considered different textile materials such as guinea brocade, damask and bringing out the significance of thread with which it is worked. Ojo (2000) defined, embroidery as an art of making pattern on textiles, leather, using threads of wool, linen, silk and needle. -
Hobby 1142-Manual-EN.Pdf
hobby114 2 Owner´s manual 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 28 8 9 27 211 2626 100 202 111 191 122 188 25 141 24 151 233 16 171 22 122 11 2020 133 Parts of your hobby™ 1142 sewing machine 1 Bobbin winder stop 2 Bobbin winder spindle 3 Hole for extra spool pin 4 Spool pin 5 Carrying handle 6 Bobbin thread guide 7 Take-up lever 8 Foot pressure dial 9 Face plate 10 Thread cutter 11 Buttonhole lever 12 Needle threader 13 Slide for lowering the feed dog 14 Needle plate 15 Accessory tray 16 Throat plate 17 Throat plate release button 18 Thumbscrew 19 Needle screw 20 Presser foot lifter 21 Thread tension dial 22 Reverse stitch lever 23 Power switch 24 Connecting socket 25 Stitch length dial 26 Stitch selector dial 27 Handwheel 28 Stitch width dial Congratulations on purchasing your new PFAFF® hobby! Your hobby is so easy to use and offers a whole range of features and accessories for you to explore. Please spend some time reading these operating instructions as it is a great way to learn the machine and also to make full use of the features. Your Pfaff dealer will be at your service with any help or advice you need. We wish you many enjoyable hours of sewing ! Some fabrics have excess dye which can cause discoloration on other fabric but also on your sewing machine. This discoloring may be very difÀ cult or impossible to remove. Fleece and denim fabric in especially red and blue often contain a lot of excess dye. -
Bobbinwork Basics by Jill Danklefsen
SPECIAL CLASSROOM EDITION BOBBINWORK BASICS BY JILL DANKLEFSEN obbinwork is a technique that places heavy decorative 4. The type of stitch chosen as well as the type of “bobbin yarn” Bthreads on the surface of the fabric, sewn as machine-fed selected will dictate how loose the tension needs to be adjusted decorative stitches or as freemotion stitches. Typically, these on the bobbin case. threads, yarns, and cords are too large to fit through the eye of the sewing machine needle. So, in order to achieve a “stitched 5. Remember the rule of tension adjustment --“Righty, Tighty -- look”, you sew with the heavy decorative thread wound onto a Lefty, Loosey” bobbin and placed in the bobbin case of the machine. 6. Use a “construction quality” thread on the “topside” of your machine, as the needle tension will usually be increased. Think of the top thread as literally pulling the “bobbin yarn” into place to form the stitch pattern. 7. Bobbins can be wound by hand or by machine. Whenever possible, wind the bobbin using the bobbin winder mechanism on the machine. This will properly tension the “bobbin yarn” for a better stitch quality. 8. Bobbinwork can be sewn with the Feed dogs up or down. If stitching freemotion, a layer of additional stabilizer or the use of a machine embroidery hoop may be necessary. 9. Select the proper presser foot for the particular bobbinwork YARNS AND THREADS SUITABLE FOR BOBBINWORK technique being sewn. When working with the heavier “bobbin yarns”, the stitches produced will be thicker. Consider selecting • Yarns (thinner types, often a foot with a large indentation underneath it, such as Foot used for knitting machines) #20/#20C.This foot will ride over the stitching much better. -
Stitches and Seam Techniques
Stitches and Seam Techniques Seen on Dark Age / Medieval Garments in Various Museum Collections The following notes have been gathered while attempting to learn stitches and construction techniques in use during the Dark Ages / Medieval period. The following is in no way a complete report, but only an indication of some techniques observed on extant Dark Ages / Medieval garments. Hopefully, others who are researching “actual” garments of the period in question will also report on their findings, so that comparisons can be made and a better total understanding achieved. Jennifer Baker –New Varangian Guard – Hodegon Branch – 2009 Contents VIKING AND SAXON STITCHES 1. RUNNING STITCH 2. OVERSEWING 3. HERRINGBONE 4. BLANKET STITCH SEAMS 1. SEAMS 2. BUTTED SEAMS 3. STAND-UP SEAM 4. SEAMS SPREAD OPEN AFTER JOIN IS MADE 5. “LAPPED” FELL SEAM 6. FELL SEAM WORKED ON WRONG SIDE OF GARMENT FINISHES ON RAW EDGES OF SEAMS SEWING ON TABLET WOVEN BRAID HEMS OTHER STITCHES FOUND IN ARCHEOLOGICAL FINDS REFERENCES 1 Stitches and Seam Techniques VIKING AND SAXON STITCHES There are only four basic stitches to master: 1. RUNNING STITCH , 2. OVERSEWING, ALSO KNOWN AS OVERCAST STITCH OR WHIP STITCH 3. HERRINGBONE , ALSO KNOWN AS CATCH STITCH 4. AND BLANKET STITCH. ALSO KNOWN AS BUTTONHOLE STITCH Running stitch is probably the easiest to start with followed by oversewing. With these two stitches you can make clothing. The other two are for decorative edging. These directions are for a right handed person, if you are left handed remember to reverse all directions. 2 Stitches and Seam Techniques RUNNING STITCH A running stitch is done through one or more layers of fabric (but normally two or more), with the needle going down and up, down and up, in an essentially straight line. -
Powerhouse Museum Lace Collection: Glossary of Terms Used in the Documentation – Blue Files and Collection Notebooks
Book Appendix Glossary 12-02 Powerhouse Museum Lace Collection: Glossary of terms used in the documentation – Blue files and collection notebooks. Rosemary Shepherd: 1983 to 2003 The following references were used in the documentation. For needle laces: Therese de Dillmont, The Complete Encyclopaedia of Needlework, Running Press reprint, Philadelphia, 1971 For bobbin laces: Bridget M Cook and Geraldine Stott, The Book of Bobbin Lace Stitches, A H & A W Reed, Sydney, 1980 The principal historical reference: Santina Levey, Lace a History, Victoria and Albert Museum and W H Maney, Leeds, 1983 In compiling the glossary reference was also made to Alexandra Stillwell’s Illustrated dictionary of lacemaking, Cassell, London 1996 General lace and lacemaking terms A border, flounce or edging is a length of lace with one shaped edge (headside) and one straight edge (footside). The headside shaping may be as insignificant as a straight or undulating line of picots, or as pronounced as deep ‘van Dyke’ scallops. ‘Border’ is used for laces to 100mm and ‘flounce’ for laces wider than 100 mm and these are the terms used in the documentation of the Powerhouse collection. The term ‘lace edging’ is often used elsewhere instead of border, for very narrow laces. An insertion is usually a length of lace with two straight edges (footsides) which are stitched directly onto the mounting fabric, the fabric then being cut away behind the lace. Ocasionally lace insertions are shaped (for example, square or triangular motifs for use on household linen) in which case they are entirely enclosed by a footside. See also ‘panel’ and ‘engrelure’ A lace panel is usually has finished edges, enclosing a specially designed motif. -
Round 'N Round, We Go Circular Embroidery
Circular Embroidery Attachment Round ‘n Round, We Go (BERNINA Foot #83) Brought to you by: Foot #83 Circular Embroidery Attachment An attachment for most BERNINA (legacy and classic editions) for sewing in circles with any stitch on your machine How to install the attachment: • Within the box you will find a booklet of detailed instructions, the flat metal attachment, a special screwdriver and two flat head set screws (one is a spare). • There is a small screw hole on the bed of the machine, close to the throat plate. The metal attachment has a corresponding hole. Line up the holes, place the set screw in these holes and use the special screwdriver to fasten the attachment to the machine. • Do not over-tighten the screw. • The flat head of the screw allows the fabric to smoothly slide over the attachment. • The metal attachment has a sharp, positioning pin with a rubber cap. The cap protects your fingers from the sharp pin and holds the fabric in place on the attachment. The • The positioning pin is attached to a black tab with grooves. There are notches along the metal bar for locking the pin in place. Positioning Pin • The positioning pin can be adjusted to the desired size circle you want to sew. Press on the black tab to gently slide the setting pin. Do not push or pull on the pin to make the size adjustment because it can become bent or dislodged. What size can I do? • The distance from the setting pin to the sewing machine needle is the radius of the circle. -
Comparison of Household Sewing Machine Needle Features
Comparison of household sewing machine needle features The Universal Needle is often used as a standard needle for all types of sewing projects because it allows easy processing of many materials. For those who sew a lot and place greater demands on seam quality, SCHMETZ offers a diverse range of special household sewing machine needles. The needle designations already provide indications on the respective fields of application. This overview additionally shows detailed information on the characteristics of household sewing machine needles compared to the Universal Needle. Basic characteristics of sewing machine needles Comparison of household sewing machine needle features Features Needle size Canu System Needle Shank Butt Eye Eye Scarf Transition Flatte- Point style Surface Special feature NM NM NM NM NM NM NM NM NM NM type diameter to eye length width scarf to ning 60 65 70 75 80 90 100 110 120 130 A O1 O2 O3 eye U1 22:15 2 130/705 H Universal 2.04 33.9 regular regular regular regular regular slightly rounded nickel •••••••••• Needle 22:15FB2 130/705 H SUK Jersey 2.04 33.9 regular regular regular regular regular medium ball nickel •••• Needle point 22:80FB2 130/705 H-S Stretch 2.04 33.9 shorter narrow deeper special reduced medium ball nickel ••• Needle point 22:82FB1 HAx1 SP Super 2.04 33.9 shorter wide special special reduced medium ball chrome reinforced blade, ••• Stretch point enlarged eye and groove Needle 22:30FB2 130/705 H-J Jeans 2.04 33.9 regular regular regular regular regular medium ball nickel reinforced blade ••••• Needle -
Stitch Chart
Stitch Chart Memo • When any of the following stitches (reverse stitch patterns) are selected, pressing (Reverse/ Reinforcement stitch button) will sew reverse stitches. Stitch 110 stitches 00 02 05 No. 100 stitches 00 01 04 When any other stitch is selected, pressing (Reverse/Reinforcement stitch button) will sew reinforcement stitches. • The stitch pattern symbols indicate the following. 1 Left needle position a d e 2 b d e Middle (center) needle position c 3 Right needle position 4 Reverse stitch pattern 5 Reinforcement stitch pattern Note • The walking foot can only be used with straight or zigzag stitch patterns. Do not sew reverse stitches with the walking foot. • When using the twin needle, set the machine to the twin needle mode. For details, refer to the Operation Manual. *1 Twin needle can be used by attaching zigzag foot “J”. For details on using the twin needle, refer to the Operation Manual. No. Stitch width Stitch length Presser (mm (inch)) (mm (inch)) Stitch 110 100 Stitch name/Applications stitches stitches foot Auto. Auto. model model Manual Manual Straight stitch (Left) 0.0 (0) 2.5 (3/32) 00*1 00*1 J General sewing, gather, pintuck, etc. 0.0 - 7.0 0.2 - 5.0 (0 - 1/4) (1/64 - 3/16) Straight stitch (Left) 0.0 (0) 2.5 (3/32) 01*1 –JGeneral sewing, gather, pintuck, etc. 0.0 - 7.0 0.2 - 5.0 (0 - 1/4) (1/64 - 3/16) Straight stitch (Middle) 3.5 (1/8) 2.5 (3/32) 02*1 01*1 J General sewing, gather, pintuck, etc.