Stitches and Seam Techniques
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Cora Ginsburg Llc Titi Halle Owner
CoraGinsburg-11/2006.qxd 11/22/06 11:26 AM Page 1 CORA GINSBURG LLC TITI HALLE OWNER A Catalogue of exquisite & rare works of art including 17th to 20th century costume textiles & needlework Winter 2006 by appointment 19 East 74th Street tel 212-744-1352 New York, NY 10021 fax 212-879-1601 www.coraginsburg.com [email protected] EMBROIDERED LINEN FOREHEAD CLOTH English, ca. 1610 Triangular in shape and lavishly embellished, a forehead cloth—also called a cross-cloth or crosset—was a feminine accessory sometimes worn with a coif, an informal type of cap. Rare after the mid-seventeenth century, forehead cloths first appeared in conjunction with the coif around 1580; embroidered with patterns to match, they were worn around the forehead and draped over the coif with the point facing backwards. Though the occasions on which a lady might wear a forehead cloth are not fully known, it seems that they were used for bedside receptions and in times of sickness. In his 1617 travels through Ireland, English author Fynes Moryson observed that, “Many weare such crosse-clothes or forehead clothes as our women use when they are sicke.” The remarkable embroidery seen here shows the practiced hand of a professional. Much fine needlework was accomplished domestically in sixteenth- and seventeenth-century England, but there were also workshops and skilled individuals that catered to the luxury trade. The Broderers’ Company, an organization for professional needleworkers, was founded under Royal Charter in 1561; specialists were also retained for wealthy private households, and journeymen embroiderers were hired as necessity demanded. -
Winter Mitten Making
1 Winter Mitten Making By: Kielyn & Dave Marrone Version 2.0, October 2015 http://lureofthenorth.com 2 Note 1- This booklet is part of a series of DIY booklets published by Lure of the North. For all other publications in this series, please see our website at lureofthenorth.com. Published instructional booklets can be found under "Info Hub" in the main navigation menu. Note 2 – Lure Mitten Making Kits: These instructions are intended to be accompanied by our Mitten Making Kit, which is available through the “Store” section of our website at: http://lureofthenorth.com/shop. Of course, you can also gather all materials yourself and simply use these instructions as a guide, modifying to suit your requirements. Note 3 - Distribution: Feel free to distribute these instructions to anyone you please, with the requirement that this package be distributed in its entirety with no modifications whatsoever. These instructions are also not to be used for any commercial purpose. Thank you! Note 4 – Feedback and Further Help: Feedback is welcomed to improve clarity in future editions. For even more assistance you might consider taking a mitten making workshop with us. These workshops are run throughout Ontario, and include hands-on instructions and all materials. Go to lureofthenorth.com/calendar for an up to date schedule. Our Philosophy: This booklet describes our understanding of a traditional craft – these skills and this knowledge has traditionally been handed down from person to person and now we are attempting to do the same. We are happy to have the opportunity to share this knowledge with you, however, if you use these instructions and find them helpful, please give credit where it is due. -
EC71-475 Relining Coats and Jackets Jane Speece
University of Nebraska - Lincoln DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln Historical Materials from University of Nebraska- Extension Lincoln Extension 1971 EC71-475 Relining Coats and Jackets Jane Speece Follow this and additional works at: http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/extensionhist Speece, Jane, "EC71-475 Relining Coats and Jackets" (1971). Historical Materials from University of Nebraska-Lincoln Extension. 4065. http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/extensionhist/4065 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Extension at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Historical Materials from University of Nebraska-Lincoln Extension by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. E. C. 71·475 I ~ I ~ 0-t I ~: I I I RELINING -+- __ _I . I I I I COATS and JACKETS I I I _I __ _ ~W:(ClEKW\ElD) \~ DGT 11 1971 COLLt.GE OF P.GRICUUURE UBRP.RY EXTENSION SERVI CE f \ UNI VERS ITY OF NEBRASKA COLLEGE OF AGR ICULTURE ' ' COOPERATI NG W ITH THE U .S. DEPARTMENT OF AGR ICULTURE • AND THE COLLEGE OF HOME ECONOMI CS. '•·····•" E. F. FROLI K, DEAN; .J. L. ADAMS, D I RECTOR 1elininR COATS and JACKETS By Jane Speece Extension Specialist (Clothing) establish The fabric of a coat or jacket usually is good long after straight the lining begins to wear. Relining the garment, which is not of grain difficult to do once the procedures are known, could put a favorite garment back into your wardrobe to give you many more years of wear. The first step is to rip out the old lining. -
23. Embroidery As an Embellishment in Fabric Decoration
EMBROIDERY AS AN EMBELLISHMENT IN FABRIC DECORATION By OLOWOOKERE PETER OLADIPO Department of Fine and Applied Arts, Federal College of Education, Osiele, Abeokuta. Abstract Nigeria is endowed with abundant human, natural and material resources, which could be used in different vocational practices. Practitioners have consistently practiced their art with attention to uniqueness and high quality forms, styles and content. Embroidery as a decorative process in Art has played principal roles in entrepreneurship development. Hence, this paper made a critical analysis of the forms, content and significant of embroidery in art, the thread colours, fabric motifs and pattern suitable for a successful embroidery design would also be considered. The general conclusion is that if embroidery is properly done, it would increase the embroiderers sense of creativity in our societal growth and the interested individual should be encourage to learn the craft so that the tradition will remain forever. Embroidery is an interesting stitching technique by which coloured threads, generally of silk or wool are used with a special needle to make a variety of stitches, and it is used to make an attractive design on garment, wall hanging or upholstery pieces. In Nigeria today, embroidery clothing are used far and wide and its unique feature and elegance remain the ability to trill and appeal to the people’s fervent love for it whereby the artisan considered different textile materials such as guinea brocade, damask and bringing out the significance of thread with which it is worked. Ojo (2000) defined, embroidery as an art of making pattern on textiles, leather, using threads of wool, linen, silk and needle. -
Multifunctional Blanket Stitch By: Magdamagda
Multifunctional Blanket Stitch By: magdamagda http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/multifunctional-blanket-stitch What better time for hand sewing revelations than now when my sewing machine is in service? sigh I have been thinking about this for some time – one type of hand stitch that comes in handy in so many situations! I’ll point out the ones I thought about, new ideas are welcome! Known as the “blanket stitch” it can back up your sewing machine in some situations or even go where no sewing machine has gone before!!!! First this is how it’s done: I prefer to stitch right to left. Bring the thread to front at desired distance from the edge ( about 2 mm for buttonholes, 4-5 mm for serging). Take the thread over the edge of the cloth and pull the needle back to front through the same point. Make a loop around this thread segment at the cloth edge level. At some distance from the first “entry point” (3-4 mm for serging) and at the same distance from the edge thrust the needle from front to back and pull the needle through the loop formed by the remaining thread. You can help yourself by keeping the thread over the index finger of the left hand while doing so. Repeat, repeat, repeat..:) Tip: If you are serging, make sure not to pull the thread too much and cause the fabric to pluck. If you’re working on a button hole or doing some embroidery work pull the thread just right so that the thread remains straight: not too loose, not too tight:) Tip-tip:) : If the thread gets twisted on itself , you can straighten it out by sliding the needle close to the fabric and running the thread through your fingers from the fixed end towards the loose end (a few times) Note: Whatever you plan to use this stitch for, you’ll find it ideal when dealing with curved lines! A video to catch the basic move: Step 1 — [serging] Multifunctional Blanket Stitch 1 Use it for: 1) Serging (overcasting the raw edges of a fabric to prevent unraveling).. -
Hobby 1142-Manual-EN.Pdf
hobby114 2 Owner´s manual 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 28 8 9 27 211 2626 100 202 111 191 122 188 25 141 24 151 233 16 171 22 122 11 2020 133 Parts of your hobby™ 1142 sewing machine 1 Bobbin winder stop 2 Bobbin winder spindle 3 Hole for extra spool pin 4 Spool pin 5 Carrying handle 6 Bobbin thread guide 7 Take-up lever 8 Foot pressure dial 9 Face plate 10 Thread cutter 11 Buttonhole lever 12 Needle threader 13 Slide for lowering the feed dog 14 Needle plate 15 Accessory tray 16 Throat plate 17 Throat plate release button 18 Thumbscrew 19 Needle screw 20 Presser foot lifter 21 Thread tension dial 22 Reverse stitch lever 23 Power switch 24 Connecting socket 25 Stitch length dial 26 Stitch selector dial 27 Handwheel 28 Stitch width dial Congratulations on purchasing your new PFAFF® hobby! Your hobby is so easy to use and offers a whole range of features and accessories for you to explore. Please spend some time reading these operating instructions as it is a great way to learn the machine and also to make full use of the features. Your Pfaff dealer will be at your service with any help or advice you need. We wish you many enjoyable hours of sewing ! Some fabrics have excess dye which can cause discoloration on other fabric but also on your sewing machine. This discoloring may be very difÀ cult or impossible to remove. Fleece and denim fabric in especially red and blue often contain a lot of excess dye. -
Hemmer Foot (ESG-HF) Instructions
Baby Lock Sewing Accessories Hemmer Foot (ESG-HF) Instructions This foot is designed to curl under a 3mm double hem while stitching with either a straight stitch or a decorative Parisian hemstitch. Works best on lightweight fabrics. 4. Position the fabric (reverse side facing up) under the presser This presser foot can be used on a sewing machine with a foot. Lower the needle 3 mm from the edges of the fabric, zigzag stitch width up to 7 mm. lower the presser foot, then sew 2 or 3 stitches. 1. Remove presser foot and attach snap-on narrow hemmer foot. 5. Raise the needle and the presser foot, and then hold the ends of the upper thread and lower thread to prevent them from being pulled out of the fabric and pull the fabric out from the front of the presser foot. 2. Select the straight stitch (center needle position). 3. Connect the foot controller so that both hands are free to guide the fabric. 6. Holding both threads, pass them through the curled part HINTS: If too little fabric is wrapped around the curl and a of the presser foot and pull them toward the back of the threefold seam is not being sewn: pull the fabric held in your presser foot. Wrap the fabric around the curled part of the right hand to the left in order to increase the amount of fabric presser foot in the same way. Position the edge of the fabric wrapped in the presser foot curl. At the same time, carefully just behind the needle and lower the presser foot. -
Powerhouse Museum Lace Collection: Glossary of Terms Used in the Documentation – Blue Files and Collection Notebooks
Book Appendix Glossary 12-02 Powerhouse Museum Lace Collection: Glossary of terms used in the documentation – Blue files and collection notebooks. Rosemary Shepherd: 1983 to 2003 The following references were used in the documentation. For needle laces: Therese de Dillmont, The Complete Encyclopaedia of Needlework, Running Press reprint, Philadelphia, 1971 For bobbin laces: Bridget M Cook and Geraldine Stott, The Book of Bobbin Lace Stitches, A H & A W Reed, Sydney, 1980 The principal historical reference: Santina Levey, Lace a History, Victoria and Albert Museum and W H Maney, Leeds, 1983 In compiling the glossary reference was also made to Alexandra Stillwell’s Illustrated dictionary of lacemaking, Cassell, London 1996 General lace and lacemaking terms A border, flounce or edging is a length of lace with one shaped edge (headside) and one straight edge (footside). The headside shaping may be as insignificant as a straight or undulating line of picots, or as pronounced as deep ‘van Dyke’ scallops. ‘Border’ is used for laces to 100mm and ‘flounce’ for laces wider than 100 mm and these are the terms used in the documentation of the Powerhouse collection. The term ‘lace edging’ is often used elsewhere instead of border, for very narrow laces. An insertion is usually a length of lace with two straight edges (footsides) which are stitched directly onto the mounting fabric, the fabric then being cut away behind the lace. Ocasionally lace insertions are shaped (for example, square or triangular motifs for use on household linen) in which case they are entirely enclosed by a footside. See also ‘panel’ and ‘engrelure’ A lace panel is usually has finished edges, enclosing a specially designed motif. -
2000 Proceedings Cincinnati, OH
Cincinnati, OH USA 2000 Proceedings DOGWOOD IN GREEN AND GOLD Tammy Abbey Central Washington University, Ellensburg, WA 98926 The purpose in creating this piece is to design an elegant garment through the combination of two very different techniques, metalsmithing and sewing. This design was inspired by extensive study in both metalworking and sewing and by blooming dogwood. The garment can be described as a dark green, fully lined dress in a polyester crepe satin. It is designed with princess lines and a gold charmeuse godet in the back. The dress is strapless and supported by the metal "lace." The "lace" is formed with brass blossoms and leaves that wrap the shoulders and overlap the front and the back of the dress. Brass blossoms also accent the godet. Construction began with an original pattern which was hand drafted. A muslin test garment was sewn, fitted and used to adjust the pattern. The main body of the dress was sewn and an invisible zipper was installed. A godet was sewn into the back. A polyester lining was sewn and then added to the dress. After the body of the dress was completed, the metal work began. Blossoms and leaves were cut from sheet brass. Then each was individually chased (hand shaped with the use of hammers and tools.) The pieces were given a copper patina (coloring) and brass brushed to a matte golden color. A dress form was used to assemble a base web of brass chain onto which the blossoms were sewn into place with thread and wire. Two blossoms and chain were added in the back to accent the godet and to contain it. -
'Sublime Stitches' Aida Page 5 Patterns 62
'Sublime Stitches' Aida Page 5 Patterns 62- 74 Full Design Area: 16.07 x 29.57 inches worked on 14 count AIDA 225 x 414 stitches Material: Minimum size - 26 x 40 inches to allow for embroidery frame and mounting Suggested fabric: Zweigart 14 count Aida, white, antique white or cream The sample was worked on Zweigart 14 count Aida, white Over dyed or space dyed fabrics may detract from the design - select carefully! There are 12 pages of patterns. One page will be placed in 'Freebies' in Blackwork Journey every month. Each pattern or group of patterns have their: Individual numbers, Technique, Threads and beads used, Chart, Picture and Method. Each month join a printout of the chart to the one before. The final chart will consist of 12 pages arranged in the order as shown above. Please follow the main chart carefully to place and work the different patterns. The embroidery may differ slightly. Where patterns overlap between the pages do not start the pattern. The part patterns are there to help in the placing of the design. As additional pages are added the part patterns will be complete. Do not add beads to the design until all 12 pages have been worked. The sample was worked in DMC and Anchor floss in four shades including DMC 310 as the base colour. Cross stitch is worked in TWO strands over two threads, back stitch is worked in ONE strand over two threads. Threads used: DMC 310 Black, three skeins Anchor 1206 variegated, or DMC 815 Garnet, three skeins DMC 415 Pearl grey, one skein DMC 414 Steel grey, one skein Metallic threads used: Rainbow Gallery Petite Treasure Braid PB01, one card or DMC Lights Effects E3852 Dark Gold, one skein DMC Lights Effects E317 DMC 996 electric blue is used on the chart to show ONE strand of 415 and ONE strand 414 together to make two strands for pulled thread work stitches. -
Attic Heirlooms
Attic Heirlooms Attic Heirlooms by Trish 2019 February Ornament Attic Heirlooms www.attic-heirlooms.com [email protected] Like us on our Attic Heirlooms Facebook page! This is free for individual use only for a limited time. No commercial use of the patterns are allowed without receiving prior permission. The pattern is a free download for you to print and use. It is only available free during the month it is offered. Kits can be ordered anytime at: www.attic-heirlooms.com The kit will contain all the fabric needed to make the ornament, paper backed fusible and any embellishing items for that month if applicable. French knot - Hold the needle in your right hand. With your left hand, wrap the thread around the needle 1-3 times, de- pending on the size of knot you want. Be sure needle points away from the fabric when you wrap the thread and wrap it Attic Heirlooms close to where the thread comes through the fabric. Insert the needle close to where it came out. Holding the knot in place, you can pull the needle to the wrong side of fabric. Lazy daisy stitch – Blanket stitch Hold thread down with Take an upright the thumb and insert stitch the thread 3 needle where it first came up with the came out. Bring point needle pointed out a short distance down, keeping the thread under away keeping the needle 2 on top of the thread. the needle and coming out Fasten the loop down on the line. 1 with a short stitch. Attic Heirlooms by Trish 2019 February Ornament Read all instructions before starting 1. -
Stitch Chart
Stitch Chart Memo • When any of the following stitches (reverse stitch patterns) are selected, pressing (Reverse/ Reinforcement stitch button) will sew reverse stitches. Stitch 110 stitches 00 02 05 No. 100 stitches 00 01 04 When any other stitch is selected, pressing (Reverse/Reinforcement stitch button) will sew reinforcement stitches. • The stitch pattern symbols indicate the following. 1 Left needle position a d e 2 b d e Middle (center) needle position c 3 Right needle position 4 Reverse stitch pattern 5 Reinforcement stitch pattern Note • The walking foot can only be used with straight or zigzag stitch patterns. Do not sew reverse stitches with the walking foot. • When using the twin needle, set the machine to the twin needle mode. For details, refer to the Operation Manual. *1 Twin needle can be used by attaching zigzag foot “J”. For details on using the twin needle, refer to the Operation Manual. No. Stitch width Stitch length Presser (mm (inch)) (mm (inch)) Stitch 110 100 Stitch name/Applications stitches stitches foot Auto. Auto. model model Manual Manual Straight stitch (Left) 0.0 (0) 2.5 (3/32) 00*1 00*1 J General sewing, gather, pintuck, etc. 0.0 - 7.0 0.2 - 5.0 (0 - 1/4) (1/64 - 3/16) Straight stitch (Left) 0.0 (0) 2.5 (3/32) 01*1 –JGeneral sewing, gather, pintuck, etc. 0.0 - 7.0 0.2 - 5.0 (0 - 1/4) (1/64 - 3/16) Straight stitch (Middle) 3.5 (1/8) 2.5 (3/32) 02*1 01*1 J General sewing, gather, pintuck, etc.