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Dressmaking up to Date

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PRICE, 25 CENTS or Is. PUBLISHED BY THE BUTTERICK PUBLISHING COMPANY, Limited AT THE BUTTERICK BUILDING, NEW YORK PARIS LONDON NEW YORK TORONTO Copyright, /QOj, by The Butter ick Publishing Co., Limited. Entered at Stationers’ Hall. A ll rights reserved. ■r o: ; < A Dressmaking, TUp to Date h.-K'ARV,^ rorS^BiS1 f'flsi $cp»es jits,wiYW( { . > i SfcP Hi ; « Ooiwngns umt J-^/ o2 &. I c/C61 / a 1X733! COPY f;s> . 3 FRONTISPIECE —THE SEWING CIRCLE HAND-SEWING STITCHES IMPORTANT POINTS AND AIDS IN DRESSMAKING THE CORRECT METHOD OF ALTERING PATTERNS SHIRT-BLOUSES DRAPED WAISTS SKIRTS NOVEL, ARTISTIC SEAMS WEDDING AND EVENING GOWNS THE TAILOR-MADE GOWN COATS AND JACKETS PRACTICAL AND ORNAMENTAL STITCHES BIAS BANDS AND FOLDS—TURNING CORNERS AN EMPIRE TEA-GOWN DESIRABLE GARMENTS FOR MATERNITY WEAR MAKING /ND FINISHING UNDERWEAR THE BATH-ROBE. CHILDREN’S CLOTHES BOYS’ SUITS XTlp to 5>ate inning (EirrU SDressmahtrtg, TUp to Date SIMPLE SEWING STITCE1ES AKING A KNOT.—Holding the threaded needle in the right hand, twist the end of the thread once and a half, around the forefinger of the left hand; press, roll downward on the ball of the thumb, twisting once or twice; slip off and draw down M with the middle finger of the left hand. BASTING.—There are two kinds of basting; even and uneven. In even basting the stitches; and spaces are the same length; in uneven basting, as its name implies, the stitches are so formed that they are not of equal length. EVEN BASTING STITCH.—Start with a knot in basting and always have it on the right side; it is more easily removed. Pass No. 1.—Even Basting the needle over and under the material, mak¬ ing the stitches and the spaces the same size. To fasten the thread, take a stitch twice over No. 2.—Uneven Basting the last stitch. (No. 1.) UNEVEN BASTING.—In uneven basting the stitch and space are not of equal length. The same directions are followed as for even basting, except that the stitch which is taken up on the needle is about one-third shorter than the space covered by the thread, as seen at No. 2. RUNNING.—In running, the stitches are shorter than in basting and spaces and stitches are the same length. It is used on seams that need not be very strong. BACK-STITC PI.—In back-stitch, a short stitch is taken on the upper and a longer one on the under side, bringing the needle out a stitch in advance. Insert the needle No. 4.—Combination Stitch to meet the last stitch, passing No. 3.—Back-Stitch it under the material and out again a stitch in advance of the one last taken. (No. 3.) This is used on seams lequiring strength, to sew raw edges together, and also in stitching sleeves in a gai ment. Fasten by carefully taking two stitches over the last ones which were made. HALF-BACK STITCH.—This is the same as back-stitch, with the exception that the stitch is taken half-way back instead of all the way, leaving a small space between each stitch. 3 4 DRESSMAKING, UP TO DATE COMBINATION STITCH.—This consists of one back-stitch and two small running stitches, as shown at No. 4, and is used on seams not requiring very great strength. It is fastened like back-stitch. FRENCH SEAM.—This is made by joining a narrow seam on the right side and trimming evenly, close to the stitching; turn the seam on the wrong side, crease the edge and take off another seam a quarter of an inch deep. This must fully cover the edges of the previous seam; consequently the first seam must be trimmed off evenly and the second seam be of sufficient depth to cover this, else instead of a smooth finished seam the raw edges will protrude on the right side. The method is shown at No. 5. FLAT FELL SEAM.—A fell is a seam hemmed down to protect the raw edge. Place the edges together, baste a three-eighths of an inch seam and sew with combination stitch. If the goods is bias, stitch so that the needle follows the thread of the goods and prevents ravelling. Remove the bastings; trim off the edge which is toward you close to the iine of sewing, turn the other edge down flat to cover the line of sewing, press hard with the thumb nail, then baste and hem. (No. 6.) OVERCASTING.—Overcasting is a slanting stitch, used to keep raw edges from ravelling. In taking the stitch the needle should always point toward the left shoulder. Hold the No. 5.—French Seam material loosely in the left hand. Do not use a knot, but turn the end of the thread to the left and take the first two stitches over to fasten. Make the stitches about one- eighth of an inch apart a n d one- eighth of an inch deep. Keep the spaces No. 6.—Flat Fell Seam bet w e e n the stitches even, as shown at No. 7. No. 7.—Overcasting OVERHANDING.— ' Selvages in muslin and certain other materials are best joined by overhanding. Baste the muslin with the two selvages together and overhand with close stitches over and over the edge, taking up as few threads of the material as possible, as shown at No. 8, so that when finished the edge will be smooth and flat and not form a cord. CAT-STITCHING.— Cat-stitching, or, as it is sometimes called, catch- stitching, is a small stitch No. 9. Method of Cat-Stitching used to hold the edges of flannel and various edges in dressmaking. In the former, place the No. 8.—Overhanding pieces of flannel together and run a seam, taking an ’ occasional DRESSMAKING, UP TO DATE 5 back-stitch. Trim off one edge and press the other edge flat to cover the seam, holding the material as shown at No. 9. Insert the needle under the flat seam at the upper left-hand corner; cross the edge and take a small stitch a few threads to the right through all thicknesses; cross again and insert the needle as pictured, taking a similar stitch, always pointing the needle to the left and encasing the raw edges. Finish the seam, the effect being shown at No. 10. Seams in flannel are also pressed open and cat-stitched, working the stitches over the raw edge of each side of the seam, thus holding both down well, as shown at No. 11. Cat-stitch - ing is re¬ ferred t o frequently in the No. 11.—Cat-Stitch on Open Seam following chapters for holding No. 10.—Finished Cat-Stitching down the edges of collars, sleeves, etc., and in other places where it is neces¬ sary to hold an edge firmly. In these instances it may be made by taking a small stitch at the upper side, then • ‘ iwr ■ - ... another across the edge and below, but making a plain I '■ i:!;; 1 ... ... stitch instead of a cross-stitch. This stvle of cat-stitch is k i . ■ if ■ ■ .. -—z.:z:zz:.: worked from right to left. No. 12.—Hemming HEMMING.—A hem is a fold of goods turned down and folded over to protect a raw edge. The first turn of a hem is the most important; if even, the second turn will be even also. Always turn a hem toward you. The hemming stitch is a slanting stitch, the needle point¬ ing directly across the middle of the left thumb. In turning a hem, crease the edge over one-quarter of an inch exactly, creasing with the thumb and forefinger. Mark a card for the width of the hem, place the end of the card at the turned edge and id; mark the desired width, making a perfo¬ . f ‘ ration with a pin. Move the line to the ' left and make another perforation; con¬ e 4 tinue across the material. Fold the hem on the perforation. Baste with even basting. In hemming do not use a knot. Pointing the needle toward you (to the right), insert it under the fold, close to the right hand. Draw the needle through, leaving a little of the thread to be tucked under and then sewed down, point the needle toward the middle of the left thumb and take up one or two threads of No. 13.—Folding for Mitred Corners the cloth and the same of the fold (No. 12). Hold the hem across the end of the fore¬ finger of the left hand, but not too tight. Continue hemming in this manner. It is impor¬ tant to have all the stitches slant in the same direction and of uniform size. DRESSMAKING, UP TO DATE MITRED CORNERS.—A mitred corner is the joining of two edges to form a right angle. Make quarter-inch turnings on the edges to be hemmed, then turn over the desired hem width. Open the material, turn one corner toward the centre and crease exactly where the lines of the hem cross, as seen at No. 13. A quarter of an inch below (or toward the point) fold and cut the corner on the crease last made. Arrange the remaining corners the same. Turn the edge of the diagonal cut in on the crease, as shown at No. 14, fold the hem down all around, bringing the mitred corners together and hem the sides. Hem the mitred corners but do not catch through the under material. SQUARE COR¬ NER.—Fold the turned hem down, and where the hems cross in the corner fold back and crease hard.
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