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80739083.Pdf 3-~"'81 8-1355 ~.(O~ All About ... • Pattern Selection • Fabric Selection • Contemporary Techniques • Fusible Interfacings • Finishing Tips CONTENTS Page Pattern Selection. ............................................... .. 3 Fabric Selection ................................................ .. 3 Notions. ....................................................... .. 3 Pressing Points ................................................. .. 4 Inner Fabrics. .................................................. .. 4 Underlining. ................................................. .. 4 Interfacing. .................................................. .. 4 Lining. ..................................................... .. 5 Preparation ............................................ .. 5 Fabric. ...................................................... .. 5 Pattern Fit. .................................................. .. 5 Cutting and Marking. ......................................... .. 5 Comparison of Custom and Contemporary Tailoring Techniques. ...... .. 5 Front and Back Interfacing. ...................................... .. 5 Fusible Method-Front. ...................................... .. 5 onfusible Method-Back Reinforcement. ....................... .. 6 One-Piece Method. ........................................ .. 6 Two-Piece Method ......................................... .. 6 Applying Back Reinforcement .................................. .. 7 Lapel and Roll Line ............................................. .. 7 Marking the Roll Line , 8 Taping the Roll Line .......................................... .. 8 Steam Pressing. .............................................. .. 8 Fusible Method of Padding Lapel. .............................. .. 8 Machine Method of Padding Lapel. ............................. .. 8 Collars ........................................................ .. 9 Fusible Method of Shaping Undercollar. ......................... .. 10 Determining and Marking the Collar Roll Line ................... .. 11 Taping Undercollar Roll Line. .................................. .. 11 Machine Method of Shaping Undercollar. ........................ .. 11 Attaching Collar. ............................................. .. 12 Sleeves and Sleeve Treatments. ................................... .. 13 Sleeve Heads. ............................................... .. 14 Shoulder Pads. ............................................... .. 15 Hems 16 Tailored Hems ............................................... .. 16 Fusible Interfacing ......................................... .. 16 Sew-in Interfacing. ......................................... .. 16 Quick Methods. .............................................. .. 17 Linings 17 Making a Pattern. .......................................... .. 17 Assembling the Lining. ..................................... .. 18 For a Center Back Vent. .................................... .. 18 Finishing Tips .................................................. .. 18 Comparison Chart of Custom and Contemporary Tailoring Techniques. ......................................... .. 19 References ..................................................... .. 20 TAILORING FOR TODAY Alma Fonseca* Almost too busy to sew, much less Fabric Selection Other fabrics such as synthetic tailor? Don't worry anymore- suedes and pile fahrics, including vel- In choosing a fashion fabric, splurge today's tailoring techniques elimi- vet, velveteen and corduroy, make a little and select a favorite color, a nate all the handwork that is so time- nice blazers or elegant pockets, col- luxurious texture or a beautiful print. consuming. Fusing and machine lars, cuffs and lapels. Because of the Refer to the back of the pattern en- techniques make tailoring fast and pile, these fabrics will require special velope for specific fabric recommen- easy, so you can create those classic techniques. dations. and versatile fashions that you love. apped fabrics and plaids, stripes Look for good quality fabric, tightly Some fabrics and situations call for or other designs that need to be constructed, either woven or knitted, traditional tailoring techniques. Be- matched require more time for cut- in a medium weight. When consider- cause many commercial sewing ting and pressing. Watch your budget ing heavy weights, keep in mind that manuals covering those traditional by coordinating colors and textures several thicknesses will be added techniques are available, this pub- with the rest of your wardrobe. when the garment is constructed. lication emphasizes contemporary Wool or wool blends are recom- techniques only and should supple- mended because of their ability to Notions ment your pattern guidesheets. hold a molded shape as well as otions and tools are important Contemporary tailoring is faster for their durability, resiliency and supplies for tailoring. You will need than custom tailoring because most warmth. the basics, such as quality thread, of the hand sewing is eliminated by Popular woolens include melton, proper size needles, very sharp scis- substituting fusible interfacings and crepe, camel cloth, gabardine, tweed, sewing machine techniques. sors and plenty of pins. Twill tape, double knits and flannel. Linen, de- cotton or polyester V4 inch (6 mm) nim, pique, seersucker, heavier cot- wide, or rayon seam tape, will pre- Pattern Selection tons and raw silk tailor nicely into vent stretching along shoulder seams, For a first-time tailoring project, suits or warm weather coats and jack- roll lines and edges and preserve the choose a pattern with simple lines ets. tailored shape for the life of the gar- and few design details. Since a jack- ment. et, coat or suit is usually a long-term Select buttons suitable for the fash- investment, consider a classic style ion. For example, sporty leather but- which can be worn several years. If shoulder shopes tons look great on corduroy. Jeweled you need guidance selecting the cor- rolled buttons are attractive on lush, solid rect pattern size, refer to the Exten- collnr colored velvets. Plain sew-through or sion publication, Pattern Selection, shank buttons blend to any design and (B-1440). are the most versatile. Plain sew- The following techniques are illus- through buttons can be sewn on by trated using a classic single-breasted machine quicker than sewing on jacket with a notched collar and shank buttons by hand. lapel, set-in sleeves, patch pockets Shoulder pads and sleeve heads are and lining (Figure 1). If your pat- notions you may either buy or make tern has raglan, dolman or kimono yourself. Shoulder pads that you make sleeves or a shawl collar, the same give support and shaping needed to tailoring principles can be adapted. fmible even out the shoulder line. They are Features such as vents can be interfacing explained more thoroughly, with in- eliminated to speed tailoring. buttonholes interfaced structions for making them, in the hem section, "Sleeves and Sleeve Treat- ments," on page 13. *Extension clothing specialist, The Texas A&M University System. Figure 1. Classic single-breasted jacket. 3 Marking aids such as tracing you will need, such as fabric for a Always be sure that the garment wheels, tracing paper, tailor's chalk lining that was not called for on the fabric can withstand the steam and and water erasable pens or pencils can pattern or fabric for making your pressure required for fusing. speed marking of hems, buttonholes, shoulder pads and sleeve heads. Interfacings are available in several darts and roll lines. Sewing aids, such Shoulder pads and sleeve heads are types and weights-the wovens (fus- as basting tape, glue sticks and fusible made of polyester fleece fabric. ible hair canvas and fusible interfacing webbing, eliminate the need for pin- without hair), nonwovens and knits. ning or basting. Underlining Several different weights are often ap- Organize your sewing notions and Underlining provides shape, body propriate in one garment. For exam- tools so they are readily accessible, and support. Choose underlining fab- ple, a lighter weight interfacing can and follow recommended package in- ric by the amount of body needed to be fused to lapels and pockets. structions for each aid. For more in- create the look you want from your Always follow manufacturer's direc- formation in selecting sewing notions fashion fabric. Underlining will make tions for fusing because directions dif- and tools, see Extension publication, light colored fabrics opaque and will fer from product to product. Sewing Tools, (B-1265). allow you to use speed techniques The amount of interfacing you will (like fusing) on fabrics that otherwise need to buy may vary according to would not accept them. use. For instance, if you want more Pressing Points To underline, machine stitch or structure in the front of your jacket, Careful pressing is essential for ev- glue a nonfusible underlining close to you will need more interfacing and/or ery sewing project, especially in the edge of the fashion fabric in the a heavier weight interfacing. Also, in tailoring. The combination of inner seam allowances. A lightweight fus- the back of your garment, you may shaping and pressing actually shapes ible interfacing can also be used as an want to use more interfacing than the the tailored garment. The pressing underlining. Underline all pattern pattern calls for. equipment you need may include: a pieces. If the garment fabric is a dark A nonfusible interfacing, such as steam iron; a press cloth; a tailor's color or tightly woven, omit underlin-
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