Colorado 4-H Guide for Clothing Judges
Standards of Quality Clothing Construction
Introduction
One of our basic tasks in evaluating or judging is to be able to recognize and identify the standards that give a garment a finished, professional look. There are many techniques that can be used to accomplish the same end product. Each of us has techniques that we like and techniques that we dislike. In an objective evaluation it is essential to play down our personal preferences and to build upon identified and accepted standards.
In general, there are some standards that apply to almost all techniques. Almost all construction techniques should result in an area, finish or detail that is:
• Inconspicuous o Flat and smooth o Free from bulk o Stitching a uniform distance from an edge or fold • Functional • Durable –stitching uniform and secure
Specific standards that can be expected in good construction are listed on the following pages. They are organized by techniques and/or areas, and the techniques are presented in alphabetical order.
Overall Appearance
Be objective when considering the overall appearance and appeal of a garment. It may be helpful to think about there being at least one especially pleasing feature about this garment, reflecting the many hours of though, effort and creativity that went into its construction. It may be the design, fabric, use of unusual technique or detail. Particularly neat and well-done machine or handstitching, etc.
o Overall neatness and cleanliness o Plaids, stripes, checks and other designs matched at seams o Fabric with a direction in design or nap issued in garment in one direction unless garment design requires variation. o Pressing is done throughout construction o Notions compatible with fabric and garment design, color, fiber and weight o Basting threads removed, sewing threads clipped o Care label is sewn into garment, is desirable but not mandatory
Belts o Secure o Even in length and width o Flat, smooth, free from bulk o Uniform in appearance o Straight belt, uniform in width o On grain of fabric o Contour belt, smooth, gradual o Placed in direction of pull curves o Equally distant apart o Interfaced o Correct length, allows button to o Corners are square pass easily and yet small enough o Shape at end of belt, a sharp to hold garment closed point, gradual curve o Correct placement o Closure is appropriate, attractive o On right front of women’s and durable garment o On left front of men’s Bindings garments o Overlapping occurs where o Smooth, uniform, flat or rounded it was designed, i.e., as appropriate center front, center back, o Seams graded to eliminate bulk side seams at neck, fullest o Stitching is straight part of bust, and waist o Width is uniform (unless design o Rectangle is no wider than ¼” requires variation) except for bulky fabrics o Lips are even width Buttons o Lips meet exactly at center of rectangular opening o Size is appropriate to fabric and o Facing securely fastened—back style of garment of buttonhole finished o Function o Securely Worked Buttonholes fastened o Color is o May be hand-worked or machine- well made coordinated with fabric o Flat o Have a shank; allows room for o Secure; all stitched intact fabric layers that lie under them o Even in length and width o Reinforced on the wrong side o Uniform in appearance with interfacing, reinforcement o Length of stitch button o Regularity of stitch o A space, in good proportion, o Stitched in thread that matches between fabric button and o On the grain of the fabric edge of o Cut in direction of pull; eliminates garment gaping o Placed in o Equally distant apart relation to o Correct length; allows button to buttonholes; when buttoned, pass through easily and yet small layers are completely flat and enough to hold garment closed smooth o Correct placement o On right front of women’s Bound Buttonholes garment o On left front of men’s o Flat garment o Overlapping occurs where Cuffs it was designed; center front, center back, side o Flat, smooth free from bulk seams o Enclosed seams trimmed o Important placement and graded points are at neck, fullest o Interfacing cushions seam part of bust and waist; allowance other buttons evenly o Interfaced spaced between; lowest o Even in width button located above hem o Only top cuff is visible
Darts
o Tapered and smooth o Come to a tapered point o Free of puckers or bubble o Securely fastened at end Collars o Appear as straight lines from outside of garment o Free from bulk o Evenly spaced, if in groups o Curved seams clipped or o Matched from left or right side of wedged body in shape and length o Seams trimmed, graded o Well pressed o Only top collar is visible o Over rounded ham if o Built-in roll prevents under intended for curved collar from showing section of body o Understitching holds the o Vertical darts pressed under collar in place toward center o Interfaced o Horizontal darts pressed o Enclosed seam is invisible on down outside o Interfacing gives cushion between upper collar and seam allowance o Collar carefully pressed o Same shape left to right o Curve of collar o Angle of collar points o Location in relation to center front or center back
Facings
o Flat, smooth, free from bulk o No pulling o No hand tacking visible on outside Not visible from outside o o No visible hand stitches o No construction imprints pressed on outside o Securely held in place o By understitching o Adequate ease for comfort o By tacking only at seams o Correct amount of ease for and darts smoothness o Enclosed seam o Neither too loose nor too o No wider than ¼” tight o Graded, clipped, or o Wrinkles which pull and wedged draw indicate too little o Edge is secure, stable and free ease from raveling o Wrinkles that lie in folds o May or may not require a indicate too much ease finish Balance o If finished, finish is flat, smooth, free from bulk o From right to left o From top to bottom Fitting o From front to back
The purpose of fitting is to hold flat cloth Overall Smoothness and Freedom from pieces to a curving body and allow the wrinkles garment to be comfortable and attractive. Good fit is based on five o Smooth on the body factors: Grain, Line, Ease, Balance and o Free from wrinkles Overall smoothness and freedom from o Enhances appearance of wearer wrinkles. o Good design on wearer o Line Grain o Color o Length-wise grain is o Texture perpendicular to the floor o o Cross-wise grain is parallel to the For Example ---Sleeves floor Grain o Grain-line on right half of garment o Cross-wise grainline parallel to matches grainline on left half of floor above the elbow garment o Length-wise grainline perpendicular o the floor above Line the elbow o Silhouette lines on garment follow silhouette lines on the body Line o Shoulder seams are on o Sleeve cap rests at end of top of shoulder shoulder o Vertical seams fall o Curve of armhole is smooth and perpendicular to the floor gradual o Vertical side seams cut body in half Ease o Circumference lines follow body o Sleeve has adequate room for circumference—neckline, upper arm waistline and armhole o Sleeve is smooth and free from o Darts point toward and stop short wrinkles of fullest part of the are they o Diagonal wrinkles pointing shape to the cap indicate needed o Hem is parallel to the floor length
Ease o Cross-wise folds at the o Seams are matched under arm indicate needed o Grain of hem matches that room of garment for smoothness o Long sleeve has adequate length o Inconspicuous; unless meant to be decorative Balance o Uniform in width o Short sleeve is balanced on the o If top stitched, stitching is uniform arm and corresponds with other top o Pokes neither forward nor stitching on the garment back o Hand stitches are evenly spaced, o Doesn’t hug the arm secure, free from drawing and o Fullness is smooth and even invisible on outside o Not puffy or puckered o Fusing hems are acceptable o Fullness is even front and o Carefully pressed to avoid ridges back o Depth appropriate for fabric, style of garment, and size of individual Overall smoothness and freedom o Garment hangs evenly and from wrinkles gracefully o Sleeve is eased into blouse, not o Uniform distance from the the blouse eased into the sleeve floor o Adequate width to suit Gathers present styles to provide weight to hang well o Uniform, evenly distributed; non Interfacing are stitched so as to form pleats o Full and attractive o Adds shape, body and support o Not pressed flat o Without bulk o Adequate fullness so not o Without changing the to appear skimpy character of the fabric o Enhances the hand of the fabric Hems o Color blends with color fabric or enhances it o Free from bulk o Serves as a cushion between the o Appropriate width for garment and the seam weight of fabric allowances o Fullness reduced or o Not visible; covered by the facing controlled by easing or o Free from raveling shrinking; free from o Interface seams and darts are pleating treated to eliminate bulk o Seams pressed open and graded Lining o Seams clipped at edge of pleats o Conceals the inner construction o Flat and smooth o Color coordinated with fashion o If required, finished to fabric prevent raveling; not all o Care coordinated with fashion fabrics require a finish fabric o If finished, finish does not o Fits smoothly inside the garment add bulk or create a ridge o Has a neat, clean finish o Free from pleats o Lining and garment seamlines o Is only slightly larger than are aligned the area on which it rests o Allowance for body movement o Vertical pleat in back lining Plackets and turns toward right side of body o Flat and neat o Folds at bottom of sleeve o Free from bulk and at garment hem allow o Functional for ease o Secure and durable A free hanging lining is attached o No pulling at corners to garment at hemline at seams o No raw or raveling with French tacks o edges
o Made in matching fabric and thread
Necklines
o Smooth, gradual curves; if called for in design o Flat and free from bulk o Interfaced
o To prevent stretching o To provide stability Pleats, Tucks o Staystitched to prevent stretching o Uniform in width unless design requires variation in width o On straight of grain o Flat and pressed in one direction except on released tucks and unpressed pleats o Free from pressed-in ridges o Free from marks from basting, pins
Needlework
o General standards to consider when needlework is used as design on garment: o Secure o Uniform
o Flat and smooth; free from unwanted pulling
o Correct technique used
o Attractive
o Enhances the garment
Pockets o Stitching is secure, even and inconspicuous Patch Pockets o Flat and smooth o Decorative and attractive o Even stitching o Stitching suitable to fabric and Pressing garment design o Hem in proportion to shape and o Garment surface is smooth and size of pocket free from wrinkles o Upper corners are reinforced o Original appearance of the fabric o Square corners are mitered has been maintained o In pairs, the pockets are o No overpressing balanced and are uniform or o No sheen coordinated in size and shape o No flattened nap or pile o No imprints or construction details on outside of garment o No stretching or shrinking o No water spots o Seams and darts are pressed smoothly on the stitching line; fabric does not fold over stitching In-Seam Pocket line or look bubbled o Not visible unless meant to be o Garment areas pressed over decorative curves where garment will fit over o Lies flat; does not gap curves-shaping pressed in o Seam is reinforced to prevent stretching Seams
o Good stitching o Balanced tension o Even stitch length o Uniform pressure o Matching color thread o Thread appropriate . Type of thread . Fiber o Free from runs or pulling o Reinforced at ends with Bound, Welt and Flap with Welt Pockets back stitching or knotting o Flat, uniform, fabric around o Seam allowances are flat and pocket not stretched smooth o Seams graded, corners trimmed, o Even in width curves clipped and/or wedged to o Free from bulk reduce bulk . Crossed seams are o Even width welts trimmed o Uniform corners, free from pulling . Enclosed seams or drawing are trimmed and o Facing is securely stitched and graded pressed, free from bulk, does not o Lie flat; curved seams are show clipped or wedged o Free from puckering . Reinforced with o Pressed open or in correct stay at under arm direction for purpose curve o Free from raveling . Gusset used . Finished, if needed o Free from raveling; soft finish on . Finish is flat, seam allowance if needed to smooth and free prevent raveling from bulk . Finish prevents raveling o Fullness eased and smooth o Crossed seams meet o Design patterns and plaids meet
Snaps, Hooks & Eyes, Other
Fasteners
o Neat Small even stitches Sleeves o o Buttonhole stitch nice, but not necessary Smooth o Finishing stitches do not Curve of arm hole is o o show on right side of smooth and gradual garment Nicely rounded car o Secure Kimono sleeves o o Are reinforced on wrong . Free from drawing o side—usually with or pulling interfacing . Seam allowance Hooks are usually placed clipped in under- o 1/8” from edge of overlap arm so it will be –secure and lie . Evenly eased in flat, neck is sewn down shoulder and upper Functional; correct placement of arm o the two parts Free from bulk; underarm seam o allowance trimmed or clipped Stitching Fullness evenly distributed o Ease not puckered or puffy o Even and smooth Evenly distributed front o o Free from tangles and back ease o Starts and finishes at ends of . Gathers evenly o seams distributed when Length of stitch is appropriate for gathering is o the fabric intended in design Stitches equal in length except Reinforced o o where shortened for Reinforced stitching in arm o reinforcement hole in area of strain o Balanced tension o Kimono sleeve o Free from skipped or broken o Stay can be woven seam spots binding, twill tape, or o Thread ends are backstitched or grosgrain ribbon knotted and clipped o Underneath band extends for fasteners; upper band is even Top Stitching with zipper closing
o Even stitches Zippers o Balanced tension o Provides an attractive decorative o Placket, when closed, is flat and effect (see stitching) smooth o Free from puckering Understitching o Zipper does not buckle or poke o Holds facing in place; neckline, o Tape does not show, unless part cuff, collar of design o Not visible on outside of garment o Stitching is straight and even o Thread blends with fabric o Placket is open to end of zipper o Done from right side through teeth unless zipper has been fabric layers of facing and seam shortened; then chain or coil is allowances before seam securely held with several allowances are trimmed, graded, stitches clipped or notched o Correct length to be useful o Slides easily and does not hang Waistbands o Compatible weight with fabric o Horizontal seams meet across o Smooth, free from bulk the placket opening o Uniform in width o Space has been allowed at back o On-grain zipper for hook and eye, snap or o Interfaced other fastener to relieve strain on o Overlap flush zipper with placket; underlap extends beyond the placket and under the band o Turned completely o Corners are square o Tab comes to a point o Skirt or pants eased onto band
Waistline Seams Judging Recycled Garments o Inconspicuous, smooth and flat o All seams and details finished Things to remember: and pressed before waistline was o Recycled garments started with stitched worn clothing; fabric should be o Secured with a waistline stay worth the time and effort needed o Adds reinforcement to construct a new garment. o Prevents stretching Recommend simple designs and Seams quick garments. o matched o Some jeans garments won’t have Topstitching seam finishes due to thickness o Uniform, corresponds with and firmness of the denim. It is other topstitching on too think for most home sewing garment machines to sew through in some o Appropriate for garment cases. Hand sewing may be Width used in some areas. o Uniform o Same techniques apply to recycle o Appropriate for fabric, style knits as for knit construction, i.e., o Provides enough weight to one turn over and top stitch for make garment hang well edges. Recommend eliminating bulk and achieving finished look. Edge Finishes o Compatible fabrics should be used if combining two fabrics in Unfinished one garment. o Appropriate for knit fabrics that o Use your head---think! Common do not ravel sense is a good guide. o Finished with catch stitch or fusible web Edge-stitched o Appropriate for fabrics that ravel little o Machine stitching ¼” from edge o Finished with catch or blind stitch or fusible web Turned and stitched o Appropriate on lightweight fabrics with relatively straight design o Hem edge turned under ¼” o Finished with catch, blind or slip stitch Finishes and Techniques Seam binding
o Appropriate for all fabrics, Hems especially hose that ravel easily Appearance o Binding compatible with fashion o flat, smooth, fabric and durable inconspicuous from right Overlaps hem edge by ¼” side unless decorative o o Finished with blind or catch stitch Ease Hong Kong fullness in flared hem o o Appropriate for garments with controlled with ease and relatively straight lines and shrinking interlined garments, provides Hand-stitching bound edge even, secure, free from o o Binding compatible with fashion drawing, inconspicuous fabric, straight and even o single thread used application, finished with slip or o stitches about 3/8” apart catch stitch Pressing Faced upper hem edge should o o Appropriate for use with bulky not imprint or cause ridge fabrics, if fabric is insufficient, as on outer garments decorative effect, or to stiffen o Appropriate facing material used • Inconspicuous on right side of o Facing ends joined smoothly and garment without bulk • Avoid on garments that may be o Finished with slip stitch dried at very high temperatures Seam covering Lettuce leaf o A nylon net available in 5/8-1 ¼” • Appropriate only on stretch knits wide which covers the edge of a that do not run seam is stitched on with straight • Decorative or zig zag stitches • Hem allowance trimmed to 3/8” and turned to wrong side, Types of Stitches stitched with medium zig-zag, fabric stretched enough to Blindstitch produce desired curl • Particularly suitable for medium Rolled and heavy weight fabrics • Appropriate for sheer fabrics • Top edge of hem folded back and • Finished width no more than ¼”, stitching done ¼” from edge preferable 1/8” • Also called “tailor’s hem” Catchstitch • Particularly suitable for knit fabric because it stretches • Upper and lower rows of stitches are same distance apart • Thread slightly loose Slipstitch • Desirable when stitching should Seams be invisible from both sides of garment Appearance • Stitches evenly spaced • Flat and smooth, whether straight Topstitched or curved • Appropriate on narrow hems in • Free from runs, pulls and puckers sporty garments or as design Bulk detail when appropriate to fabric • Seams graded • Appropriate thread, stitched • Corners trimmed length and stitch pattern used • Curves clipped and/or wedged • Stitching straight, flat and even Finish Machine blindstitch • Appropriate for fabric and style of • Appropriate for straight or very garment (see seam finishes) slightly flared garments of Fullness medium weight fabrics • Eased and smooth (as in • Only single thread of right side of sleeves, princess seam) garment caught by offset Placement machine stitch • Crossed seams meet • Stitching straight and even Pressing • Open in correct direction for Special Hems purpose Pressure Fused • Uniform • Appropriate on garments with Reinforced relatively straightlines or narrow • At ends with backstitching or hem if very flared knotting Stitch length than both seam allowances, • Uniform, appropriate to fabric and centered under seams of purpose garment Tension • Topstitching even distance from • Balanced edge Thread • Appropriate type and fiber, Seam Finishes matching color unless decorative Width Appearance • Seam allowance even • Flat, smooth, no raveling Appropriate Types of Seams • Use only when necessary • Fabrics that are firm do not ravel Topstitched do not need to be finished • Used on garments where tailored • Finished according to fabric, or sporty look is appropriate design and use of garments • Flat and smooth, stitching is Finishes straight and even Unfinished • Stitch length appropriate • For fabrics that do not ravel French (usually only stable knits and • Appropriate for sheer fabric bonded fabrics) • Should not be used on curved Pinked seams • Provides a decorative effect • Finished seam allowance no • Not always a functional seam wider than ¼” finish as it sometimes ravels, Mock French particularly if garment is • Appropriate for lightweight fabrics laundered frequently • Not as easy to do on curved • Could be strengthened with seams one row of stitching • Finished seam allowance even Edge-stitched Flat-Felled • For fabric with slight • Used on garment where tailored degree of raveling or sporty look is appropriate • Stitching is straight and • difficult on curved seams even, 1/8” to ¼” from edge • Finished seam no wider than 3/8” Zig-Zag • Finished from right side of • Desirable for many fabrics garment, seam width even, • On plain seams overcast stitching edge seam allowance • Straight and even using stitch size Welt (Mock Flat-Felled) appropriate to weight of • Used on garments where tailored fabric or sporty look is appropriate • On sheer and open fabrics • Under seam allowance trimmed stitch both seam to ¼”, stitching straight and even allowances together with a Slot small stitch close to seam • Appropriate as decorative effect line and trim close to zig- with medium to heavy weight zag fabric Hand overcast • • Underlay strip of matching or Diagonal even • coordinating fabric, slightly wider Stitches using single thread, not drawn tight Clean finish • Inside edge of waist band to • Satisfactory for light weight eliminate bulk fabrics • Stitch 1/8” from the raw edge, turn under on stitching line and stitch again, close to edge Double-stitched • Appropriate for sheer fabrics • Second row of stitching 1/8” from seam line straight and even, trimmed close to second row of stitching Bound • Appropriate for unlined jacket or coat, often used with bulky, heavy fabrics (especially those that ravel easily, such as heavy woven woolen coat or suit fabric) • Binding appropriate for fashion fabric, stitching straight and even Hong Kong • Appropriate as a special technique for a custom look in garments • Binding appropriate for fashion fabric, stitching straight and even Seared • Appropriate for nylon and/or polyester fabrics that ravel badly, such as taffeta, ripstop and chambray • “melting” should be at very edge, invisible, and done evenly Selvages
Treatment • On fabrics that shrink, clipped through every 5” – 6” to prevent drawing Uses • Seam finish on straight seams • Apron ties and sides of apron • Hem finish (i.e. border prints) Glossary of Terms
The following terms are used in sewing. Many are similar, others may be unfamiliar. These brief definitions may be helpful. Term Where Definition Purpose Illustration Clip Inside curve To cut perpendicular through Allow seam seam allowance to regular allowance to lie intervals, close to but not flat. through line of stitching.
Clip Inside To cut through an angle in a Allow seam corner seam allowance, close to but allowance to lie not through the point of the flat corner formed by the line of stitching Wedge Outside To snip out small wedge Eliminate bulk (or notch) curve shaped bits of fabric in the seam allowance, close to but not through the line of stitching
Trim Outside To cut off the corner of the Eliminate bulk corner seam allowance, close to but no through the point of the corner formed by the line of stitching
Trim Seams To cut a seam allowance to a Eliminate bulk narrower width
Grade Seams To cut seam allowances in Eliminate bulk, graduated widths eliminate ridge from showing on right side
Understitching Facings To trim the facing seam Prevent facing allowance, grade the facing from rolling to and garment seams if right side needed, press both toward the facing and stitch both seam allowances and the facing close to the seamline on the facing Sear Seam edge To slightly melt the cut edge Prevent raveling of a nylon or polyester fabric that ravels badly such as taffeta, ripstop or chambray by running it through a candle flame or heating the edge with a soldering iron Serge Seam edge By machine, apply many Prevent raveling stitches to cover the edge of seam allowance