Lesson Guide Princess Bodice Draping: Beginner Module 1 – Prepare the Dress Form

Home , Bodice, Cut (clothing), Dress form, Ease (sewing), Grain (textile), Princess line

Step 1 Apply style tape to your dress form to establish the bust level. Tape from the left apex to the side seam on the right side of the dress form.

1 Module 1 – Prepare the Dress Form

Step 2 Place style tape along the front princess line from shoulder line to waistline.

2 Module 1 – Prepare the Dress Form

Step 3A On the back, measure the neck to the waist and divide that by 4. The top fourth is the shoulder blade level.

3 Module 1 – Prepare the Dress Form

Step 3B Style tape the shoulder blade level from center back to the armhole ridge. Be sure that your guidelines lines are parallel to the floor.

4 Module 1 – Prepare the Dress Form

Step 4 Place style tape along the back princess line from shoulder to waist.

5 Lesson Guide Princess Bodice Draping: Beginner Module 2 – Extract Measurements

Step 1 To find the width of your center front block, measure the widest part of the cross chest, from princess line to centerfront and add 4”. Record that measurement.

6 Module 2 – Extract Measurements

Step 2 For your side front block, measure the widest part from apex to side seam and add 4”.

7 Module 2 – Extract Measurements

Step 3 For the length of both blocks, measure from the neckband to the middle of the waist tape and add 4”.

8 Module 2 – Extract Measurements

Step 4 On the back, measure at the widest part of the center back to princess style line and add 4”. This will be the width of your center back block.

9 Module 2 – Extract Measurements

Step 5 Measure the widest part of the side back panel and add 4”.

10 Module 2 – Extract Measurements

Step 6 Measure from the back neckband to the shoulder blade level and record that measurement.

11 Lesson Guide Princess Bodice Draping: Beginner Module 3 – Prepare Muslin Blocks

Step 1 The next step is to prepare your muslin blocks. Begin by removing the selvage edge of the muslin.

12 Module 3 – Prepare Muslin Blocks

Step 2 Referring to your recorded measurements, measure and then tear all four sections of the princess bodice.

13 Module 3 – Prepare Muslin Blocks

Step 3 Press each block. Remember to always press in the direction of the grain.

14 Module 3 – Prepare Muslin Blocks

Step 4A Use your L square to check that your muslin corners are at right angles.

15 Module 3 – Prepare Muslin Blocks

Step 4B Turn your muslin block over and re-block them so that your grains are at right angles to each other.

16 Module 3 – Prepare Muslin Blocks

Step 5 Press your pieces again, this time using steam to set the grain.

17 Module 3 – Prepare Muslin Blocks

Step 6 If necessary, re-block your pieces and then give them a final pressing.

18 Lesson Guide Princess Bodice Draping: Beginner Module 4 – Measurements & Mark Guidelines

Step 1A You will need the following measurements when marking your muslin blocks beginning with the front: Neckband to bust level.

19 Module 4 – Measurements & Mark Guidelines

Step 1B Measure apex to center front.

20 Module 4 – Measurements & Mark Guidelines

Step 1C Measure side seam to the apex plus 1/8” added ease.

21 Module 4 – Measurements & Mark Guidelines

Step 2 On your center front muslin block measure in 1” from the right side edge and drag a guideline down, this represents center front.

22 Module 4 – Measurements & Mark Guidelines

Step 3 Measure down from the top your neckband to apex measurement and drag a guideline across, this is the bust level.

23 Module 4 – Measurements & Mark Guidelines

Step 4 On the bust level, place a mark representing center front to apex.

24 Module 4 – Measurements & Mark Guidelines

Step 5 Lay your side front panel alongside your center front panel. Drag a guideline across the side front panel in line with the bust guideline of your centerfront panel.

25 Module 4 – Measurements & Mark Guidelines

Step 6A Divide the side front panel lengthwise and crease.

26 Module 4 – Measurements & Mark Guidelines

Step 6B Drag a guideline down on this crease.

27 Module 4 – Measurements & Mark Guidelines

Step 7 Measure in 1” from the left side of the center back panel and drag a guideline down, this is center back.

28 Module 4 – Measurements & Mark Guidelines

Step 8 Measure down from the top, your neckband to shoulder blade measurement and drag a guideline across for the shoulder blade level.

29 Module 4 – Measurements & Mark Guidelines

Step 9 Measure up from the shoulder blade guideline to the neckline and place a neckline crossmark.

30 Module 4 – Measurements & Mark Guidelines

Step 10 Lay your side back panel alongside your center back panel. Drag a guideline across the side back panel in line with the shoulder blade level of the center back panel.

31 Module 4 – Measurements & Mark Guidelines

Step 11A Divide the side back panel lengthwise and crease.

32 Module 4 – Measurements & Mark Guidelines

Step 11B Drag a guideline down from this crease.

33 Module 4 – Measurements & Mark Guidelines

Step 12A Once you marked your muslin blocks give a final blocking.

34 Module 4 – Measurements & Mark Guidelines

Step 12B Press your blocks in preparation for draping.

35 Lesson Guide Princess Bodice Draping: Beginner Module 5 – Center Front Panel: Draping

Step 1 Bend back your 1” extension and finger press both center front and center back panel. Never iron the folded extension as it will stretch the grain.

36 Module 5 – Center Front Panel: Draping

Step 2 Begin the drape by lining up the apex marking on the center front muslin to the apex of the dress form. Secure it with 2 pins.

37 Module 5 – Center Front Panel: Draping

Step 3 Pin along the center front to the neckline, keeping the muslin bust level, level to the bust level of the dress form.

38 Module 5 – Center Front Panel: Draping

Step 4 As you pin the center front from bust level to waistline make sure that you allow for bust ease. Meaning that you do not pin the muslin flat to the form in the area between the left and right apex points.

39 Module 5 – Center Front Panel: Draping

Step 5A Smooth the muslin around the neckline and with your fingernail make a crease.

40 Module 5 – Center Front Panel: Draping

Step 5B Using your fabric shears cut away a rectangular piece of muslin at the center front neckline 1” up and 1” over.

41 Module 5 – Center Front Panel: Draping

Step 5C Then release the neckline by slashing into the neckline excess to the creaseline. Be careful not to cut beyond the crease.

42 Module 5 – Center Front Panel: Draping

Step 6 Pin the shoulder neckline intersection and the shoulder princess intersection.

43 Module 5 – Center Front Panel: Draping

Step 7 Continue to pin along the princess line to the waistline.

44 Lesson Guide Princess Bodice Draping: Beginner Module 6 – Center Front Panel: Marking & Truing

Step 1A Mark the center front muslin in a counterclockwise direction.

45 Module 6 – Center Front Panel: Marking & Truing

Step 1 Mark the center front muslin in a counterclockwise direction. Place a dash mark at center front.

46 Module 6 – Center Front Panel: Marking & Truing

Step 2 Make a few small dots along the neckline.

47 Module 6 – Center Front Panel: Marking & Truing

Step 3 Crossmark the shoulder/neckline intersection.

48 Module 6 – Center Front Panel: Marking & Truing

Step 4 Crossmark the shoulder/princess intersection.

49 Module 6 – Center Front Panel: Marking & Truing

Step 5 Looking through the muslin, dot along the inside edge of the style tape from the shoulder to the waistline.

50 Module 6 – Center Front Panel: Marking & Truing

Step 6 Crossmark the princess waistline intersection at the middle of the waist tape.

51 Module 6 – Center Front Panel: Marking & Truing

Step 7 Dot the waistline and place a dash at the centerfront/waistline intersection.

52 Module 6 – Center Front Panel: Marking & Truing

Step 8 Before removing the center front muslin from the dress form, be sure that you have captured all of your markings.

53 Module 6 – Center Front Panel: Marking & Truing

Step 9A Square a line for ¼” at the center front/neckline intersection.

54 Module 6 – Center Front Panel: Marking & Truing

Step 9B True the neckline with your French curve.

55 Module 6 – Center Front Panel: Marking & Truing

Step 10A With your red pencil, drop your center front neckline ¼” or to accommodate a col- lar, drop ½”.

56 Module 6 – Center Front Panel: Marking & Truing

Step 10B Then blend the new neckline to the shoulder seam. Make sure that center front is a right angle.

57 Module 6 – Center Front Panel: Marking & Truing

Step 11 Add ½” seam allowance to the new lowered neckline.

58 Module 6 – Center Front Panel: Marking & Truing

Step 12A Connect the shoulder/neck and the princess/shoulder markings with your ruler.

59 Module 6 – Center Front Panel: Marking & Truing

Step 12B Then add 1” seam allowance.

60 Module 6 – Center Front Panel: Marking & Truing

Step 13 Using your hip curve, connect the apex to the waistline on the princess line.

61 Module 6 – Center Front Panel: Marking & Truing

Step 14 Flip the hip curve over and connect the apex to shoulder seam on the princess line, though you may need to do this in two steps to get a smooth line.

62 Module 6 – Center Front Panel: Marking & Truing

Step 15 Add ½” seam allowance to the princess line seam.

63 Module 6 – Center Front Panel: Marking & Truing

Step 16A Trim the excess muslin at the princess seam.

64 Module 6 – Center Front Panel: Marking & Truing

Step 16B Trim the shoulder excess muslin.

65 Module 6 – Center Front Panel: Marking & Truing

Step 16C Trim the new lowered neckline.

66 Module 6 – Center Front Panel: Marking & Truing

Step 17 Place your center front drape back on the dress form. Make sure that you put it back on the way you draped it matching all key points: neckline, center front, waistline, princess line and the shoulder neckline intersection.

67 Lesson Guide Princess Bodice Draping: Beginner Module 7 – Side Front Panel: Draping

Step 18 Sink your pins flat into the dress form on the shoulder and princess seam in preparation for draping the side front panel.

68 Module 7 – Side Front Panel: Draping

Step 1A Measure the side seam to the princess seam on the bust level. Divide that number in half with your tape measure.

69 Module 7 – Side Front Panel: Draping

Step 1B Place a pin on the top edge of the style tape in the middle.

70 Module 7 – Side Front Panel: Draping

Step 2 Looking through the muslin, align the middle of your side front panel at the bust level to the pin on the dress form. Secure your muslin to the form with 2 pins.

71 Module 7 – Side Front Panel: Draping

Step 3 Place 2 more pins at the bust level/princess intersection.

72 Module 7 – Side Front Panel: Draping

Step 4 Continue to pin alternating directions, trapping ease between the apex and the side seam on the bust level.

73 Module 7 – Side Front Panel: Draping

Step 5A Smooth the muslin up and over the chest area, placing pins at the shoulder/princess intersection.

74 Module 7 – Side Front Panel: Draping

Step 5B Pin the shoulder/armhole intersection.

75 Module 7 – Side Front Panel: Draping

Step 5C Pin at the underarm/side seam intersection.

76 Module 7 – Side Front Panel: Draping

Step 6 Pin along the princess line to the apex.

77 Module 7 – Side Front Panel: Draping

Step 7 Keeping your guideline at a right angle to the bust level, secure a pin at the waist/ guideline intersection.

78 Module 7 – Side Front Panel: Draping

Step 8 Continue to pin along the guideline. This will help prevent pulling as you continue to pin the princess line from apex to the waistline.

79 Module 7 – Side Front Panel: Draping

Step 9A Slash into the middle guideline but be careful to stop at the waist tape. This releases the muslin over the high hip.

80 Lesson Guide Princess Bodice Draping: Beginner Module 8 – Side Front Panel: Marking & Truieng

Step 9B Secure another pin at the waistline/princess intersection and at the side seam/waistline intersection.

81 Module 8 – Side Front Panel: Marking & Truieng

Step 1 Begin marking by placing a crossmark at the shoulder/armhole intersection.

82 Module 8 – Side Front Panel: Marking & Truieng

Step 2 Crossmark the princess/shoulder intersection.

83 Module 8 – Side Front Panel: Marking & Truieng

Step 3 Looking through the muslin, dot the princess line until you reach the waistline. Make sure that you are marking on the same side of the style tape as you marked the centerfront panel. I prefer to mark with dots instead of dashes. It is easier to connect dots and not dash marks, when truing the seam later on. 84 Module 8 – Side Front Panel: Marking & Truieng

Step 4 Place a crossmark at the waistline/princess intersection at the middle of the waist tape.

85 Module 8 – Side Front Panel: Marking & Truieng

Step 5A Dot along the middle of the waistline until you reach the side seam.

86 Module 8 – Side Front Panel: Marking & Truieng

Step 5B Crossmark the side seam/waistline intersection.

87 Module 8 – Side Front Panel: Marking & Truieng

Step 6 Then, crossmark the side seam/underarm intersection.

88 Module 8 – Side Front Panel: Marking & Truieng

Step 7 Place dots along the armhole ridge from the shoulder/armhole intersection until you reach the level of the screw plate.

89 Module 8 – Side Front Panel: Marking & Truieng

Step 8 Place a crossmark at the screw level.

90 Module 8 – Side Front Panel: Marking & Truieng

Step 9 Place two dash marks, one 2” above and another 2” below the apex.

91 Module 8 – Side Front Panel: Marking & Truieng

Step 10 Remove pins in this area and then transfer the marks onto the center front panel. These notches will help when easing the bust fullness.

92 Module 8 – Side Front Panel: Marking & Truieng

Step 11 Unpin the side panel from the dress form but make sure that you have captured all of you markings first.

93 Module 8 – Side Front Panel: Marking & Truieng

Step 12 Then remove the center front panel, in preparation for trueing.

94 Module 8 – Side Front Panel: Marking & Truieng

Step 13 With your side front panel facing up, place your hip curve on the princess line and connect the dots.

95 Module 8 – Side Front Panel: Marking & Truieng

Step 14 You will have to flip the curve over several times to get the best line.

96 Module 8 – Side Front Panel: Marking & Truieng

Step 15 Add ½” seam allowance with your clear plastic ruler.

97 Module 8 – Side Front Panel: Marking & Truieng

Step 16 Slash into the armhole excess muslin stopping about 1” away from the armhole markings.

98 Module 8 – Side Front Panel: Marking & Truieng

Step 17 Trim the excess muslin from the princess seam.

99 Module 8 – Side Front Panel: Marking & Truieng

Step 18 Slash into the princess line seam allowance of the center front panel.

100 Module 8 – Side Front Panel: Marking & Truieng

Step 19 Turn back the princess seam allowance then finger press the seam.

101 Module 8 – Side Front Panel: Marking & Truieng

Step 20 Pin the princess seam, front panel over side panel, matching the notches and trapping the ease between the notches.

102 Module 8 – Side Front Panel: Marking & Truieng

Step 21A Using your plastic ruler connect the shoulder/neckline to the shoulder/armhole.

103 Module 8 – Side Front Panel: Marking & Truieng

Step 21B Add 1” seam allowance and trim.

104 Module 8 – Side Front Panel: Marking & Truieng

Step 22 Place your front drape back on the dress form. Make sure that you put it back on the way you draped it. Match all key points and intersections beginning with the front neckline, shoulder/neckline and shoulder/armhole.

105 Module 8 – Side Front Panel: Marking & Truieng

Step 23 Sink your pins flat into the dress form on the shoulder seam allowance, in preparation for draping the back.

106 Module 8 – Side Front Panel: Marking & Truieng

Step 24A Pin at the screw level, along centerfront, but remember bust ease.

107 Module 8 – Side Front Panel: Marking & Truieng

Step 24B Match your muslin marks with the waist tape at center front.

108 Module 8 – Side Front Panel: Marking & Truieng

Step 25A Pin at the underarm.

109 Module 8 – Side Front Panel: Marking & Truieng

Step 25B Pin at the waist on the side seam.

110 Module 8 – Side Front Panel: Marking & Truieng

Step 26A Place a row of pins about 1” away from the side seam.

111 Lesson Guide Princess Bodice Draping: Beginner Module 9 – Center Back: Draping

Step 26B Remove your side seam pins at the underarm and at the waist. Turn the fabric back on itself securing it with holding pins on top and bottom, in preparation for draping the back.

112 Module 9 – Center Back: Draping

Step 1A Place the center back panel on the dress form and pin at the neckline and at the shoulder blade level.

113 Module 9 – Center Back: Draping

Step 1B Continue to pin along center back to the waistline.

114 Module 9 – Center Back: Draping

Step 2 Add a pinch of ease on the shoulder blade guideline midway between the center back and the princess line.

115 Module 9 – Center Back: Draping

Step 3 Pin at the shoulder blade guideline/princess intersection.

116 Module 9 – Center Back: Draping

Step 4 Continue to pin across the shoulder blade in alternating directions.

117 Module 9 – Center Back: Draping

Step 5A With your fingernail, crease the neckline.

118 Module 9 – Center Back: Draping

Step 5B Then slash into the crease to release the muslin.

119 Module 9 – Center Back: Draping

Step 6A Trim the excess muslin at the neckline to keep it from curling.

120 Module 9 – Center Back: Draping

Step 6B Then pin at the shoulder/neckline intersection.

121 Module 9 – Center Back: Draping

Step 7 Halfway between the shoulder/neck and the shoulder/armhole intersection, take a pinch of ease.

122 Module 9 – Center Back: Draping

Step 8A Gently tug on the muslin over the shoulder.

123 Module 9 – Center Back: Draping

Step 8B Place a pin at the shoulder princess intersection and a holding pin on the muslin excess.

124 Module 9 – Center Back: Draping

Step 9 Pin along the princess line to the waistline, smoothing the muslin as you pin.

125 Module 9 – Center Back: Draping

Step 10A Slash into the muslin to the bottom of the waist tape to release the hip.

126 Module 9 – Center Back: Draping

Step 10B Place pins at the princess/waistline intersection.

127 Lesson Guide Princess Bodice Draping: Beginner Module 10 – Center Back: Marking & Trueing

Step 10C And along the middle of the waist tape to center back.

128 Module 10 – Center Back: Marking & Trueing

Step 1 Begin marking in a clockwise direction. Place a dash at centerback neckline and dots along the neckline.

129 Module 10 – Center Back: Marking & Trueing

Step 2 Place a crossmark at the neckline/shoulder intersection.

130 Module 10 – Center Back: Marking & Trueing

Step 3A Dot along the shoulder seam.

131 Module 10 – Center Back: Marking & Trueing

Step 3B Crossmark the shoulder/princess intersection.

132 Module 10 – Center Back: Marking & Trueing

Step 4A Continue to dot the princess seam to the waistline on the inside of the styletape to match what you did on the front.

133 Module 10 – Center Back: Marking & Trueing

Step 4B Place a notch dash mark 3” below the shoulder blade level on the princess seam.

134 Module 10 – Center Back: Marking & Trueing

Step 5 Place a crossmark at the waistline/princess intersection.

135 Module 10 – Center Back: Marking & Trueing

Step 6A Continue to dot the center of the waist tape.

136 Module 10 – Center Back: Marking & Trueing

Step 6B Place a dash at center back waist.

137 Module 10 – Center Back: Marking & Trueing

Step 7 Check that you have captured all of your markings and then remove your center back drape from the dress form.

138 Module 10 – Center Back: Marking & Trueing

Step 8 Remove the ease pin from the shoulder blade guideline.

139 Module 10 – Center Back: Marking & Trueing

Step 9 Square a line for about ¼” off the center back neckline.

140 Module 10 – Center Back: Marking & Trueing

Step 10A True the neckline with your French curve.

141 Module 10 – Center Back: Marking & Trueing

Step 10B Add ½” allowance.

142 Module 10 – Center Back: Marking & Trueing

Step 10C Trim the excess.

143 Module 10 – Center Back: Marking & Trueing

Step 11A Place your hip curve on the princess seam and true from shoulder to waistline.

144 Module 10 – Center Back: Marking & Trueing

Step 11B You may need to flip the ruler, depending upon the curve.

145 Module 10 – Center Back: Marking & Trueing

Step 11C Add ½” seam allowance to the princess line.

146 Module 10 – Center Back: Marking & Trueing

Step 11D Trim the excess seam allowance.

147 Module 10 – Center Back: Marking & Trueing

Step 12A Put your center back drape back on the dress form the way that you draped it. Sink pins flat into the dress form at the shoulder.

148 Lesson Guide Princess Bodice Draping: Beginner Module 11 – Side Back Panel: Draping

Step 12B Sink pins into the princess seam allowances, in preparation for draping the side back panel.

149 Module 11 – Side Back Panel: Draping

Step 1A With your tape measure, find the middle of your dress form’s side panel at the underarm.

150 Module 11 – Side Back Panel: Draping

Step 1B Sink a pin marker into the dress form at that point.

151 Module 11 – Side Back Panel: Draping

Step 2A Line up the middle of your muslin side back panel to the pin marker and to the shoulder blade level.

152 Module 11 – Side Back Panel: Draping

Step 2B Secure a pin at the at the armhole ridge.

153 Module 11 – Side Back Panel: Draping

Step 3 Place pins along the shoulder blade level trapping in a pinch of ease from the armhole ridge to the princess seam. Pin in alternating directions.

154 Module 11 – Side Back Panel: Draping

Step 4A Making sure that your guideline is a right angle to the shoulder blade level, pin the guideline to the dress form from shoulder blade to waist.

155 Module 11 – Side Back Panel: Draping

Step 4B Slash into the guideline to release the hip, stopping at the waist tape.

156 Module 11 – Side Back Panel: Draping

Step 5 Smooth the muslin up and over the cross back area and place a pin at the shoulder/ princess intersection.

157 Module 11 – Side Back Panel: Draping

Step 6 Pick up an ease pinch in the middle of the shoulder.

158 Module 11 – Side Back Panel: Draping

Step 7 Gently tug the muslin over the shoulder and secure it with a pin at the shoulder/armhole intersection and on the muslin excess.

159 Module 11 – Side Back Panel: Draping

Step 8 Looking through the muslin at your center back marking, pin along the princess line from shoulder to just above the waistline.

160 Module 11 – Side Back Panel: Draping

Step 9 Pick up a pinch of ease at the waistline between the guideline and princess line.

161 Module 11 – Side Back Panel: Draping

Step 10 Continue pinning the princess line to the waist.

162 Module 11 – Side Back Panel: Draping

Step 11A Slash into the shoulder blade guideline, stopping at the armhole ridge.

163 Module 11 – Side Back Panel: Draping

Step 11B Trim away excess muslin within 1” of the upper armhole.

164 Module 11 – Side Back Panel: Draping

Step 12 Remove the holding pins on the front at the underarm and at the waist.

165 Module 11 – Side Back Panel: Draping

Step 13 Place a pin at the back underarm.

166 Module 11 – Side Back Panel: Draping

Step 14A Join the front to the back at the armhole/side seam intersection.

167 Module 11 – Side Back Panel: Draping

Step 14B Then join the front and back side seam at the waist.

168 Module 11 – Side Back Panel: Draping

Step 14C Pat the side seam flat with the palm of your hands.

169 Module 11 – Side Back Panel: Draping

Step 14D Make sure that the side seams balance, meaning that your side seam’s edges will either match exactly or have the same differential both top and bottom.

170 Lesson Guide Princess Bodice Draping: Beginner Module 12 – Side Back Panel: Marking and Trueing

Step 14E If you find that there is a difference, remove your waist pin and readjust the back waist until top and bottom side seams are equal.

171 Module 12 – Side Back Panel: Marking and Trueing

Step 1 Place a crossmark at the princess /shoulder intersection.

172 Module 12 – Side Back Panel: Marking and Trueing

Step 2 Dot along the shoulder seam and place a crossmark at the shoulder/armhole intersection.

173 Module 12 – Side Back Panel: Marking and Trueing

Step 3 Dot the back armhole to the shoulder blade level.

174 Module 12 – Side Back Panel: Marking and Trueing

Step 4A Looking through the muslin to the center back panel, dot along the back princess line.

175 Module 12 – Side Back Panel: Marking and Trueing

Step 4B Transfer the ease notch.

176 Module 12 – Side Back Panel: Marking and Trueing

Step 5 Continue marking the princess line and place a crossmark at the waistline.

177 Module 12 – Side Back Panel: Marking and Trueing

Step 6 Dot along the center of the waist tape to the side seam.

178 Module 12 – Side Back Panel: Marking and Trueing

Step 7 Crossmark the back side seam at the waistline and at the armhole.

179 Module 12 – Side Back Panel: Marking and Trueing

Step 8 Check to be sure that you have captured all of your markings.

180 Module 12 – Side Back Panel: Marking and Trueing

Step 9 Remove your side back muslin from the dress form, keeping the side seams pinned together.

181 Module 12 – Side Back Panel: Marking and Trueing

Step 10 With the front muslin facing up, carefully reposition your underarm and waistline pins so that they are at right angles to the tight bodyline.

182 Module 12 – Side Back Panel: Marking and Trueing

Step 11 Connect the underarm to the waistline with your clear plastic ruler.

183 Module 12 – Side Back Panel: Marking and Trueing

Step 12A To accommodate a sleeve, drop the underarm 1”.

184 Module 12 – Side Back Panel: Marking and Trueing

Step 12B Extend out ½” at the tight body line.

185 Module 12 – Side Back Panel: Marking and Trueing

Step 12C Then reconnect the new lowered extended underarm to the waistline.

186 Module 12 – Side Back Panel: Marking and Trueing

Step 13A Place your tracing paper face-up under the side seam. Using your tracing wheel, trace the waistline marking, the tight body line and underarm line, the new lowered extended side seam and armhole line.

187 Module 12 – Side Back Panel: Marking and Trueing

Step 13B Check to be sure that you’ve captured all of the markings.

188 Module 12 – Side Back Panel: Marking and Trueing

Step 14A Add 1” seam allowance.

189 Module 12 – Side Back Panel: Marking and Trueing

Step 14B Trim the excess seam allowance.

190 Module 12 – Side Back Panel: Marking and Trueing

Step 15 Square a line for about ½” at a right angle off the lowered extended side seam.

191 Module 12 – Side Back Panel: Marking and Trueing

Step 16 Remove the underarm and waist pins and then separate the back from the front.

192 Module 12 – Side Back Panel: Marking and Trueing

Step 17 Separate the back and front and remove the ease pin.

193 Module 12 – Side Back Panel: Marking and Trueing

Step 18 With your side back panel facing up, use your hip curve to connect the back princess seam markings. Re-position the curve as you go.

194 Module 12 – Side Back Panel: Marking and Trueing

Step 19A Remove the shoulder ease pin and then add ½” seam allowance to the princess seam.

195 Module 12 – Side Back Panel: Marking and Trueing

Step 19B Trim the excess muslin.

196 Module 12 – Side Back Panel: Marking and Trueing

Step 20 Before trueing you back armhole, drag a guideline down from the armhole/shoulder blade intersection for about 2”.

197 Module 12 – Side Back Panel: Marking and Trueing

Step 21A True your upper armhole.

198 Module 12 – Side Back Panel: Marking and Trueing

Step 21B Then flip your curve and true the lower armhole. Don’t let your curve extend beyond the guideline.

199 Module 12 – Side Back Panel: Marking and Trueing

Step 22A Add ½” seam allowance.

200 Module 12 – Side Back Panel: Marking and Trueing

Step 22B Trim the excess muslin.

201 Module 12 – Side Back Panel: Marking and Trueing

Step 23 True the front armhole with your French curve connecting the shoulder, the screw level marking and the lowered extended armhole.

202 Module 12 – Side Back Panel: Marking and Trueing

Step 24A Add ½” seam allowance.

203 Module 12 – Side Back Panel: Marking and Trueing

Step 24B Trim the excess muslin.

204 Module 12 – Side Back Panel: Marking and Trueing

Step 25A Slash along your center back princess seam allowance.

205 Module 12 – Side Back Panel: Marking and Trueing

Step 25B Fingerpress the seam allowance.

206 Module 12 – Side Back Panel: Marking and Trueing

Step 25C Pin the center back panel over the side back panel, matching the notch as you pin.

207 Module 12 – Side Back Panel: Marking and Trueing

Step 25D Add another notch ¼” away below the first.

208 Module 12 – Side Back Panel: Marking and Trueing

Step 26 Using your styling curve, true your shoulder seam. Flip the curve to get a nice smooth line.

209 Module 12 – Side Back Panel: Marking and Trueing

Step 27A Add 1” seam allowance.

210 Lesson Guide Princess Bodice Draping: Beginner Module 13 – Final Steps

Step 27B Trim the excess.

211 Module 13 – Final Steps

Step 1A Fingerpress the back side seam allowance.

212 Module 13 – Final Steps

Step 1B Pin the back over the front.

213 Module 13 – Final Steps

Step 2A Use your ruler to square a line off center back at the waist for about 1”.

214 Module 13 – Final Steps

Step 2B Square a line off center front waist.

215 Module 13 – Final Steps

Step 3 Square a line off the side seam at the waist for ½”.

216 Module 13 – Final Steps

Step 4A Use your styling curve to connect the waist at the side seam to the center front.

217 Module 13 – Final Steps

Step 4B Flip the curve over and connect the side seam to the center back.

218 Module 13 – Final Steps

Step 5A Add 1” seam allowance to the waist.

219 Module 13 – Final Steps

Step 5B Trim the excess muslin.

220 Module 13 – Final Steps

Step 6A Fingerpress the back shoulder seam allowance.

221 Module 13 – Final Steps

Step 6B Pin the back over the front, matching the princess seams on the shoulder.

222