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Lesson Guide Princess Bodice Draping: Beginner Module 1 – Prepare the Dress Form

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Lesson Guide Princess Bodice Draping: Beginner Module 1 – Prepare the Dress Form Lesson Guide Princess Bodice Draping: Beginner Module 1 – Prepare the Dress Form Step 1 Apply style tape to your dress form to establish the bust level. Tape from the left apex to the side seam on the right side of the dress form. 1 Module 1 – Prepare the Dress Form Step 2 Place style tape along the front princess line from shoulder line to waistline. 2 Module 1 – Prepare the Dress Form Step 3A On the back, measure the neck to the waist and divide that by 4. The top fourth is the shoulder blade level. 3 Module 1 – Prepare the Dress Form Step 3B Style tape the shoulder blade level from center back to the armhole ridge. Be sure that your guidelines lines are parallel to the floor. 4 Module 1 – Prepare the Dress Form Step 4 Place style tape along the back princess line from shoulder to waist. 5 Lesson Guide Princess Bodice Draping: Beginner Module 2 – Extract Measurements Step 1 To find the width of your center front block, measure the widest part of the cross chest, from princess line to centerfront and add 4”. Record that measurement. 6 Module 2 – Extract Measurements Step 2 For your side front block, measure the widest part from apex to side seam and add 4”. 7 Module 2 – Extract Measurements Step 3 For the length of both blocks, measure from the neckband to the middle of the waist tape and add 4”. 8 Module 2 – Extract Measurements Step 4 On the back, measure at the widest part of the center back to princess style line and add 4”. This will be the width of your center back block. 9 Module 2 – Extract Measurements Step 5 Measure the widest part of the side back panel and add 4”. 10 Module 2 – Extract Measurements Step 6 Measure from the back neckband to the shoulder blade level and record that mea- surement. 11 Lesson Guide Princess Bodice Draping: Beginner Module 3 – Prepare Muslin Blocks Step 1 The next step is to prepare your muslin blocks. Begin by removing the selvage edge of the muslin. 12 Module 3 – Prepare Muslin Blocks Step 2 Referring to your recorded measurements, measure and then tear all four sections of the princess bodice. 13 Module 3 – Prepare Muslin Blocks Step 3 Press each block. Remember to always press in the direction of the grain. 14 Module 3 – Prepare Muslin Blocks Step 4A Use your L square to check that your muslin corners are at right angles. 15 Module 3 – Prepare Muslin Blocks Step 4B Turn your muslin block over and re-block them so that your grains are at right an- gles to each other. 16 Module 3 – Prepare Muslin Blocks Step 5 Press your pieces again, this time using steam to set the grain. 17 Module 3 – Prepare Muslin Blocks Step 6 If necessary, re-block your pieces and then give them a final pressing. 18 Lesson Guide Princess Bodice Draping: Beginner Module 4 – Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 1A You will need the following measurements when marking your muslin blocks begin- ning with the front: Neckband to bust level. 19 Module 4 – Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 1B Measure apex to center front. 20 Module 4 – Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 1C Measure side seam to the apex plus 1/8” added ease. 21 Module 4 – Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 2 On your center front muslin block measure in 1” from the right side edge and drag a guideline down, this represents center front. 22 Module 4 – Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 3 Measure down from the top your neckband to apex measurement and drag a guide- line across, this is the bust level. 23 Module 4 – Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 4 On the bust level, place a mark representing center front to apex. 24 Module 4 – Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 5 Lay your side front panel alongside your center front panel. Drag a guideline across the side front panel in line with the bust guideline of your centerfront panel. 25 Module 4 – Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 6A Divide the side front panel lengthwise and crease. 26 Module 4 – Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 6B Drag a guideline down on this crease. 27 Module 4 – Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 7 Measure in 1” from the left side of the center back panel and drag a guideline down, this is center back. 28 Module 4 – Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 8 Measure down from the top, your neckband to shoulder blade measurement and drag a guideline across for the shoulder blade level. 29 Module 4 – Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 9 Measure up from the shoulder blade guideline to the neckline and place a neckline crossmark. 30 Module 4 – Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 10 Lay your side back panel alongside your center back panel. Drag a guideline across the side back panel in line with the shoulder blade level of the center back panel. 31 Module 4 – Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 11A Divide the side back panel lengthwise and crease. 32 Module 4 – Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 11B Drag a guideline down from this crease. 33 Module 4 – Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 12A Once you marked your muslin blocks give a final blocking. 34 Module 4 – Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 12B Press your blocks in preparation for draping. 35 Lesson Guide Princess Bodice Draping: Beginner Module 5 – Center Front Panel: Draping Step 1 Bend back your 1” extension and finger press both center front and center back pan- el. Never iron the folded extension as it will stretch the grain. 36 Module 5 – Center Front Panel: Draping Step 2 Begin the drape by lining up the apex marking on the center front muslin to the apex of the dress form. Secure it with 2 pins. 37 Module 5 – Center Front Panel: Draping Step 3 Pin along the center front to the neckline, keeping the muslin bust level, level to the bust level of the dress form. 38 Module 5 – Center Front Panel: Draping Step 4 As you pin the center front from bust level to waistline make sure that you allow for bust ease. Meaning that you do not pin the muslin flat to the form in the area between the left and right apex points. 39 Module 5 – Center Front Panel: Draping Step 5A Smooth the muslin around the neckline and with your fingernail make a crease. 40 Module 5 – Center Front Panel: Draping Step 5B Using your fabric shears cut away a rectangular piece of muslin at the center front neckline 1” up and 1” over. 41 Module 5 – Center Front Panel: Draping Step 5C Then release the neckline by slashing into the neckline excess to the creaseline. Be careful not to cut beyond the crease. 42 Module 5 – Center Front Panel: Draping Step 6 Pin the shoulder neckline intersection and the shoulder princess intersection. 43 Module 5 – Center Front Panel: Draping Step 7 Continue to pin along the princess line to the waistline. 44 Lesson Guide Princess Bodice Draping: Beginner Module 6 – Center Front Panel: Marking & Truing Step 1A Mark the center front muslin in a counterclockwise direction. 45 Module 6 – Center Front Panel: Marking & Truing Step 1 Mark the center front muslin in a counterclockwise direction. Place a dash mark at center front. 46 Module 6 – Center Front Panel: Marking & Truing Step 2 Make a few small dots along the neckline. 47 Module 6 – Center Front Panel: Marking & Truing Step 3 Crossmark the shoulder/neckline intersection. 48 Module 6 – Center Front Panel: Marking & Truing Step 4 Crossmark the shoulder/princess intersection. 49 Module 6 – Center Front Panel: Marking & Truing Step 5 Looking through the muslin, dot along the inside edge of the style tape from the shoul- der to the waistline. 50 Module 6 – Center Front Panel: Marking & Truing Step 6 Crossmark the princess waistline intersection at the middle of the waist tape. 51 Module 6 – Center Front Panel: Marking & Truing Step 7 Dot the waistline and place a dash at the centerfront/waistline intersection. 52 Module 6 – Center Front Panel: Marking & Truing Step 8 Before removing the center front muslin from the dress form, be sure that you have captured all of your markings. 53 Module 6 – Center Front Panel: Marking & Truing Step 9A Square a line for ¼” at the center front/neckline intersection. 54 Module 6 – Center Front Panel: Marking & Truing Step 9B True the neckline with your French curve. 55 Module 6 – Center Front Panel: Marking & Truing Step 10A With your red pencil, drop your center front neckline ¼” or to accommodate a col- lar, drop ½”. 56 Module 6 – Center Front Panel: Marking & Truing Step 10B Then blend the new neckline to the shoulder seam. Make sure that center front is a right angle. 57 Module 6 – Center Front Panel: Marking & Truing Step 11 Add ½” seam allowance to the new lowered neckline. 58 Module 6 – Center Front Panel: Marking & Truing Step 12A Connect the shoulder/neck and the princess/shoulder markings with your ruler. 59 Module 6 – Center Front Panel: Marking & Truing Step 12B Then add 1” seam allowance. 60 Module 6 – Center Front Panel: Marking & Truing Step 13 Using your hip curve, connect the apex to the waistline on the princess line. 61 Module 6 – Center Front Panel: Marking & Truing Step 14 Flip the hip curve over and connect the apex to shoulder seam on the princess line, though you may need to do this in two steps to get a smooth line. 62 Module 6 – Center Front Panel: Marking & Truing Step 15 Add ½” seam allowance to the princess line seam. 63 Module 6 – Center Front Panel: Marking & Truing Step 16A Trim the excess muslin at the princess seam.
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