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Tailoring Series TECHNIQUES for TAILORING UNDERLINING a TAILORED GARMENT—Underlining Is a Second Layer of Fabric. It Is Cut By
tailoring series TECHNIQUES FOR TAILORING UNDERLINING A TAILORED GARMENT—Underlining is a second layer of fabric. It is cut by the garment pattern pieces and staystitched to the wrong side of the corresponding outer sections before any seams are joined. The two layers are then handled as one. As a general guide, most suit jackets and coats look more pro- fessional when underlined. Underlining is especially recommended for lightweight wool materials, loosely woven materials and light- colored materials. For additional information on selecting fabrics for underlining and applying the underlining, see Lining a Shirt 01' Dress HE 72, N. C. Agricultural Extension Service. STAYSTITCHING—Staystitch all outer garment pieces before construction begins. If garment is underlined, stays-titching is done when the two layers of fabric are sewn together. Staystitch 1/3 in. outside seamline (on the seam allowance). Stay- stitch “ with matching cotton thread on all curved *areas that may stretch during construction such as necklines, side seams, shoulder seams, armholes, and side seams of skirt. Use directional stitching always to prevent stretching of fabric and to prevent one layer of fabric from riding. The direction to stitch is indicated by small arrows on the pattern on the seamlines. INTERFACINGS—Select a high quality hair canvas for the front and collar of coats and jackets. The percentage of wool indicates the quality—the higher the wool content of the canvas the better the quality. Since a high percentage of wool makes the hair canvas fairly dark in color, it cannot be used successfully under light-colored fabrics. In these cases use an interfacing lighter in color and lower in wool content. -
That Was a T-Shirt!!! We Need Tops! While Cotton Tops Are Easy to Make, Knit Tops Are the Most Versatile Due to the Forgiving Stretch
That was a t-shirt!!! We need tops! While cotton tops are easy to make, knit tops are the most versatile due to the forgiving stretch. Because of the challenges in working with knit fabric, updating a t-shirt is the perfect compromise. Our goal is to have someone look at our top and say “that was a t-shirt?!” All hemlines need to be removed and restyled and the neckline needs to be either ruffled (size small and some medium) or trimmed. Here are some guidelines that we are looking for. Simply sewing a decorative stitch or zigzag over the existing hemline (sleeves and bottom hem) does not make visual changes to the t-shirt. Please cut off the existing hemline and if you like, you can make it shorter. If you have a serger, you can finish the edge prior to hemming but because the knit does not ravel it is not necessary. You also do not need to turn over the edge prior to hemming. Sleeves Match the sleeves and cut off both hems at the same time. You can cut straight or at an angle and make it a cap sleeve Use a decorative stitch for the hemming, variegated thread looks great! Use either white or black thread in the bottom as variegated thread is expensive. Remember to sew on the right side with your finger on the bottom feeling for the fabric edge. Watch for those sales and coupons!! Sulky blendables, 30 weight, 100% cotton is very nice to use. If you hem with a straight stitch, make it a little longer perhaps 3.0 and add some elastic to make it gathered at the hem edge. -
Lesson Guide Princess Bodice Draping: Beginner Module 1 – Prepare the Dress Form
Lesson Guide Princess Bodice Draping: Beginner Module 1 – Prepare the Dress Form Step 1 Apply style tape to your dress form to establish the bust level. Tape from the left apex to the side seam on the right side of the dress form. 1 Module 1 – Prepare the Dress Form Step 2 Place style tape along the front princess line from shoulder line to waistline. 2 Module 1 – Prepare the Dress Form Step 3A On the back, measure the neck to the waist and divide that by 4. The top fourth is the shoulder blade level. 3 Module 1 – Prepare the Dress Form Step 3B Style tape the shoulder blade level from center back to the armhole ridge. Be sure that your guidelines lines are parallel to the floor. 4 Module 1 – Prepare the Dress Form Step 4 Place style tape along the back princess line from shoulder to waist. 5 Lesson Guide Princess Bodice Draping: Beginner Module 2 – Extract Measurements Step 1 To find the width of your center front block, measure the widest part of the cross chest, from princess line to centerfront and add 4”. Record that measurement. 6 Module 2 – Extract Measurements Step 2 For your side front block, measure the widest part from apex to side seam and add 4”. 7 Module 2 – Extract Measurements Step 3 For the length of both blocks, measure from the neckband to the middle of the waist tape and add 4”. 8 Module 2 – Extract Measurements Step 4 On the back, measure at the widest part of the center back to princess style line and add 4”. -
Impoved Family Manual.Pdf
FORM 7129 . July 7, 1891. Supersedes Form 7006 . DIRECTIONS FOR USING THE 1MPKO),7r,D IAPXIL~q SIXGER st.-AWING ACHINE1 THE SINGER MANUFACTURING GO., NEW YORK. 1891 . DIRECTIONS FOR USING ~ ~- ~ ~~- -~~ e~ == " ~~ ~ . ce ca ~ ~ c . ~~-- ' -- m_--' B . ..................... ~ a 8 w ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ " THE IMPROVED FAMILY SINGER . FIG. 2. ~1E4 __._Stop Motion _.,.Right Lag IMPROVED FAMILY MACHINE, WITH STAND. DIRECTIONS FOR USING FIG. 3. OILING PLACES SHOWN BY ARROWS . AILING PLACES SHOWN BY ARROWS. DIRECTIONS FOR USENG THE 11112er Y rr+peoved Parr,Iiy t4achile. To Oil the Machine. Be sure that every part is clean before you commence to sew. If the machine runs hard at any time, IT IS CERTAIN that someplace has not been oiled. Oil holes will be found for all bearings which cannot be reached without them. Each place requiring oil is indicated by an arrow head in the cuts on the opposite page. The shuttle should be oiled sparingly, but often, if the machine is in constant use ; always be careful to use no more oil than is needed, a single drop being sufficient at any point. If the machine runs hard after standing idle for some time, use a little kero- sene oil or benzine on the wearing points, run rapidly, zvi~e clean, and then oil with the BEST slerni oil, which should always be used. To make sure of getting good oil, buy it at at any of the Company's offices or from its authorized representatives. The genuine oil is put up in bottles which have The Singer Manufacturing Company's " trade-mark " blown in their panel, and bear the Company's label. -
Knitting Teacher | Designer | Author Construction Basics: When It Comes to Fit, Every Sweater Construction Has Different Needs
knitting teacher | designer | author Construction Basics: When it comes to fit, every sweater construction has different needs. When getting the fit we want we must consider not only required ease for that construction, but also how each sweater works with bust, armhole and shoulder. The armhole fit can be the most confusing when looking at sweaters other than the set-in sleeve. So how do the chest, armholes and shoulder size connect? If you have a large bust and narrow shoulders, you’ll need to consider how you narrow your sweater as you move to your shoulders, in your armhole shaping of course! Let’s take a look at your six basic sweater shapes: 1) Drop Shoulder: Cabled Coat by Patty Lyons Armhole: General Properties: - Top of sleeve must be very wide in a traditional drop - Easiest to knit, unshaped. shoulder for it to fit you right. - Perfect backdrop for complex stitch patterns, cables, and - In a traditional drop shoulder, the armhole depth is half of color work. the upper arm; the arm folds in half and seams into the side - No armhole shaping. of the sweater. This will create an armhole depth at least 1” – 2” deeper than a set-in sleeve. Fit considerations: - In the more modern drop shoulder style, the sleeve is - Size will be based on your full chest measurement. narrower. To fit the body without bunching under the arm, - Must be knit with a lot of ease, usually 6” – 8”. This is the body must be wide enough for the sleeve to hit farther because part of the body “drops down” to become the top down on the upper arm. -
Simplified Sewing: Hems
South Dakota State University Open PRAIRIE: Open Public Research Access Institutional Repository and Information Exchange SDSU Extension Fact Sheets SDSU Extension 1964 Simplified Sewing: Hems Cooperative Extension South Dakota State University Follow this and additional works at: https://openprairie.sdstate.edu/extension_fact Recommended Citation South Dakota State University, Cooperative Extension, "Simplified Sewing: Hems" (1964). SDSU Extension Fact Sheets. 865. https://openprairie.sdstate.edu/extension_fact/865 This Fact Sheet is brought to you for free and open access by the SDSU Extension at Open PRAIRIE: Open Public Research Access Institutional Repository and Information Exchange. It has been accepted for inclusion in SDSU Extension Fact Sheets by an authorized administrator of Open PRAIRIE: Open Public Research Access Institutional Repository and Information Exchange. For more information, please contact [email protected]. .. ... -~--- - --v · . --,-.-.- , -. ·. ..•, .. ·'··· .••,.,. - .t:\. --(. ......., • ... ·\•i• ....,.,•-•1•,··...- .,.. "\' ·,- • • • -:\. -: ·):.~\:,..,:}:,:.·,:,..,:;:,:.~:,-:-,:.0:.- ·,~\:,.!;;;; ··:,:.\!.t:,-;..:,t;.,:,:,:.i:1:,:.'.:.•; .-·F_:,~::::_:.~:~~~~~;.:::z~:;:'.·---~-~;:~~L ::·.1~~~~1::.:;.:_;~~: File Copy FS244 THE l-lE~I of your dress can have the "professional - Wearer should stand in a natural position with look" or the "homemade look." In general, the best arms at sides and weight on both feet. hem is the least conspicuous, and every step in making a hem is planned with this in mind There are several methods of marking a hem. You may use any one of these: The professional touch is recognize-cl by the follow- ing characteristics: Various types of chalk markers or pin markers - Inconspicuous from the right side Yardstick - Even distance from the floor Tailor's square. - Wide enough for good proportion and to gi\.re With some of these you can mark enough weight to hang well your own hem; others require a - Even in width help«. -
To Complete the Pattern Join Bodice #1 to #2 at Circle Front Bodice #1
To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle Chapter 2 Chapter 4 Chapter 6 Chapter 19 Front Bodice #1 1/2” FACING N CUT 1 FABRIC ON FOLD CUT 2 WITH FACING CUT 2 EXTENSIO INTERFACING USE FOR: GRAINLINE LAYOUT CUTTING FABRIC PATTERN MARKINGS DARTS SEAMS COLLARS CLOSURES CENTER FRONT FOLD To completeTo the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle TO COMPLETE THE PATTERN JOIN BODICE #1 TO #2 AT CIRCLE STITCH TO MATCHPOINTS FOR DART TUCK FRONT BODICE #2 Front Bodice #2 Chapter 2 Chapter 4 Chapter 6 Chapter 19 STITCH TO MATCHPOINTS FOR DART TUCKS To complete the pattern join bodice #3 to #4 at circle Chapter 2 Chapter 4 Chapter 6 Back Bodice #3 CUT 2 FABRIC USE FOR: CK SEAM GRAINLINE LAYOUT CUTTING FABRIC CK FOLD PATTERN MARKINGS DARTS SEAMS COLLARS CENTER BA CUT HERE FOR CENTER BA To completeTo the pattern join bodice #3 to #4 at circle STITCH TO MATCHPOINTS FOR DART TUCKS Back Bodice #4 Chapter 2 Chapter 4 Chapter 6 Chapter 4 Chapter 11 Chapter 14 Chapter 17 MATCHPOINT Front Skirt #5 CUT 1 FABRIC USE FOR: V SHAPED SEAM WAISTBAND WAIST FACING BIAS WAIST FINISH CURVED/ALINE HEM BIAS FALSE HEM CENTER FRONT FOLD Chapter 4 Chapter 11 Chapter 14 Front Yoke #6 CUT 1 FABRIC CUT 1 INTERFACING USE FOR: V SHAPE SEAM WAISTBAND WAIST FACING BIAS WAIST FINISH C. F. FOLD C. F. MATCHPOINT Chapter 4 Chapter 6 Chapter 10 Chapter 11 Chapter 14 Chapter 17 MARK DART POINT HERE Back Skirt #7 CUT 2 FABRIC USE FOR: SEAMS ZIPPERS WAISTBAND WAIST FACING BIAS WAIST FINISH CURVED ALINE HEM BIAS FALSE HEM Chapter 4 CUT ON FOLD Chapter 12 Chapter 17 H TC NO WHEN -
Undergarments : Extension Circular 4-12-2
University of Nebraska - Lincoln DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln Nebraska 4-H Clubs: Historical Materials and Publications 4-H Youth Development 1951 Undergarments : Extension Circular 4-12-2 Allegra Wilkens Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/a4hhistory Part of the Service Learning Commons Wilkens, Allegra, "Undergarments : Extension Circular 4-12-2" (1951). Nebraska 4-H Clubs: Historical Materials and Publications. 124. https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/a4hhistory/124 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the 4-H Youth Development at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Nebraska 4-H Clubs: Historical Materials and Publications by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. Jan. 1951 E.G. 4-12-2 o PREPARED FOR 4-H CLOTHrNG ClUB GIRLS EXTENSION SERVICE UNIVERSITY OF NEBRASKA COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE AND U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE COOPERATING A W. V. LAMBERT, DIRECTOR C i ( Undergarments for the Well Dressed 4-H Girl Allegra Wilkens The choosing or designing of the undergarments that will make a suitable foundation for her costume is a challenge to any girl's good taste. She may have attractive under- wear if she is wise in the selection of materials and careful in making it or in choosing ready-made garments. It is not the amount of money that one spends so much as it is good judgment in the choice of styles, materials and trimmings. No matter how beautiful or appropriate a girl's outer garments may be, she is not well dressed unless she has used good judgment in making or selecting her under - wear. -
Rockland Gazette : October 20, 1871
Sjtf Iscklantj Sa^tte, PUBLISHED KVEEY FRIDAY' MORNING BY *w»lvrl-u\,n Tn lacflOy, In Presses, Type and other VOSE & PORTER, business’ weYn' “ P^e"™ 01 ““ “y >«»■■» In tho STYI K d ,0 execute, IN a n reiu o K At No. 5 Custom-House Block. ’’■'rk/such a s11 1>Eal,ATC11>e™ 7 description ol Job t e n , m © s C a t a i v 7 UeS.’a B^ , a " s’ T o w n R e p w ts Il paid strictly in advance—per annum, $2,00 Circular * BlU-Heada: Blanks, Il paym ent is delayed 0 m onths 2,25 11 not paid till the close ol the year, 2,50 ^AMME8; LABELS j0®“ New subscribers are expected to make the Ca rd s, pr o g . first payment in advance. "'In, P o u trs, 4tc. (TT* No paper will He discontinued until a l l Ar H and B ills , Shop a r e a r a g e s are paid, unless at tho option oi the pub- B . lishore. Particular attention paid to LZ Single copies five cents—lo r sale a t th e office and at the bookstores. V O L . 26. ROCKIAND, M AINE, FRIDAY, OCTOBER 20, 1871. PR IN TIN G IN COL OKS Z. POPE VOSE. J. B. PORTER. N O . 45 B R O N Z IN G , ate. ‘Hum 1 I advise you to put that chair The out-of door world was very love she had worn during her lifetime came t o d v n . -
Darts - a Reverse Approach By: Linda74sews
Darts - A Reverse Approach By: Linda74Sews http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/darts-a-reverse-approach The subject is darts – one of the mostly commonly performed and easily done techniques for any experienced garment sewer. As we all know, darts play an important role in creating curves and shaping a garments silhouette. And, when executed well help create a professional look in clothing. In contrast, poorly executed darts can make a garment look “homemade.” So, what’s the big deal? Yes, for most sewers we don’t give them much thought. Within a matter of minutes they’re done. But, as I have learned teaching many new sewists, this simple technique can be a daunting one. Sewing darts for the first time can consume an inordinate amount of time to accomplish when conventional methods are employed. But, it doesn’t have to be that way. I have painfully watched new sewers struggle sewing darts for the first time. Where they (and let’s face it a lot of us, too) go wrong is sewing beyond the dart’s end point or short ending the points that produce the dreaded pucker. Or, simply not being able to follow the dart leg properly. A task most sewists can perform with relative ease and precision can take 3-4 times as long for the beginner. This simple sewing basic should be, for all practical purposes, a cinch to master. The objective of sewing the perfect dart is pretty straightforward. Follow a properly marked, and pinned, dart leg to a precise end point without overshooting, backstitching or short ending it. -
Measurement Chart
Measurement Chart NAME: ___________________________________ DATE: __________________ 1. High bust circumference: 2. Full bust circumference: 2a. Distance between bust points: 3. Distance from shoulder/neck point to bust point: 4. Waist circumference: 5. High Hip circumference: 5a. Distance from waist: 6. Full hip circumference: 6a. Distance from waist: 7. Stride (crotch length) plus 1" to 2": 8. Length from waist to floor minus 1": 9. Shoulder length: 10. Upper arm circumference: 11. Sleeve length: 12. Back width: 13. Back length to waist: © The Sewing Workshop Fitting the Bust: Ease Chart Garment Minimum Bust Ease Blouse, Dress 2½" to 3" Unlined jacket 3" to 4" Lined jacket 3½" to 4½" Coat 4" to 5" Fitting the Bust: Ease Chart © The Sewing Workshop Fitting the Back: Ease Chart Garment Minimum Back Ease Blouse, Dress ½" to 1" Jacket 1" Coat 1" to 2" Fitting the Back: Ease Chart © The Sewing Workshop Fitting Sleeves: Ease Chart Garment Minimum Upper Arm Ease Blouse 1" to 1½" Dress 1½" to 2" Unlined jacket 3" to 4" Lined jacket 3" to 4½" Coat 4" to 5½" Fitting Sleeves: Ease Chart © The Sewing Workshop Fitting Pants: Ease Chart Minimum Pants Ease Waist 1" to 2" Hip 2" - Fitted Pants 4" - Elastic Waist Pants Crotch Length 1" - If hips are less than 37" 1½" - If hips are 37"-40" 2" - If hips are 40" or more Fitting Pants: Ease Chart © The Sewing Workshop How to Measure For Successful Fitting by Linda Lee Tips! Tips! Tips! Gather Your Tools Know Your Notions Two very specific tools are recommended: Elastic - Use 1”-wide Stretchrite woven polyester flat non-roll elastic. -
Literary-Sites.Pdf
Whether you're an armchair traveler or road trip warrior, join us on a journey through America to visit homes, restaurants, bookshops, hotels, schools, museums, memorials and the occasional monument linked to some of our nation's Jewish authors. Along the way you'll gain insight into how these celebrated-and not so celebrated-writers lived and wrote. NEW YORK, NY Built in 1902, the Algonquin Hotel still famous exchanges: for example, Noel friend, Frederik Pohl, writes of how stands in all its Edwardian elegance at Coward’s compliment to Ferber on her Isaac’s father tried to prevent him from 59 West 44th Street. In its restaurant, new suit. “You look almost like a man,” reading pulp fiction sold in the store be beyond the signature oak-paneled lobby, he said, to which Ferber replied, “So do cause it would interfere with his school is a replica of the celebrated Round Table you.” Kevin Fitzpatrick, a Dorothy Parker work, but Isaac convinced him that a pe at which, from 1919 to 1929, a group researcher, leads walking tours devoted riodical such as Amazing Stories was fine, of sharp-tongued 20-somethings came to Round Table members; download the because, although fiction, it was “sci together for food, drink (no alcohol in schedule at dorothyparker.com. Show ence.” Asimov’s Foundation and Robot se the Prohibition years) and repartee. The Algonquin’s management a published ries are said to have inspired Gene Rod- daily gathering purportedly got its start work or one in progress and receive a denberry’s Star Trek.