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Taking Your Measurements \ I / \ I / ' ------/ / ' ,,,__
• 1mp s __ ...,... ___ _. _____ ___ ,,. -, Bulletin 498 / January 1956 / ' : TAKING YOUR MEASUREMENTS \ I / \ I / ' ------ / / ' ,,,__..... --- ------- ./ _,."' / / --- --- 1 -------------- \ \ ' A good looking dress is a well-fitted dress. Achieving a good fit depends upon three things: knowing your own figure measurements, selecting the size and type pattern which most nearly corres ponds to your measurements, and then making any necessary alterations in the pattern before cutting your dress. This leaflet tells you how to take your measurements and provides a place for you to record them. What Is A Well-fitted Dress? A dress that fits you well adapts itself to your body. Ir brings out your good points and skillfully hides your poor ones. You will know a good fit by- Direction of grain of fabric. - Crosswise yarns are parallel to the floor at the center-front and back busdine, and at the hipline, unless the dress has unusual style details. lengthwise yarns are at right angles to the floor at the center-front and back of both skirt and bodice of a dress. lengthwise yarns on the sleeve cap lie in the direction of the arm when it hangs straight at the side . This varies slightly on different figures but in general the crosswise yarns are also parallel are straight in front and back of your arm except to the floor. when special style features, such as extended shoul Direction of seam lines. - Seam lines that ders, requir.e otherwise. lie and hang straight keep your dress in proper li~e The waistline seam appears to be straight around on your figure. -
Tailoring Series TECHNIQUES for TAILORING UNDERLINING a TAILORED GARMENT—Underlining Is a Second Layer of Fabric. It Is Cut By
tailoring series TECHNIQUES FOR TAILORING UNDERLINING A TAILORED GARMENT—Underlining is a second layer of fabric. It is cut by the garment pattern pieces and staystitched to the wrong side of the corresponding outer sections before any seams are joined. The two layers are then handled as one. As a general guide, most suit jackets and coats look more pro- fessional when underlined. Underlining is especially recommended for lightweight wool materials, loosely woven materials and light- colored materials. For additional information on selecting fabrics for underlining and applying the underlining, see Lining a Shirt 01' Dress HE 72, N. C. Agricultural Extension Service. STAYSTITCHING—Staystitch all outer garment pieces before construction begins. If garment is underlined, stays-titching is done when the two layers of fabric are sewn together. Staystitch 1/3 in. outside seamline (on the seam allowance). Stay- stitch “ with matching cotton thread on all curved *areas that may stretch during construction such as necklines, side seams, shoulder seams, armholes, and side seams of skirt. Use directional stitching always to prevent stretching of fabric and to prevent one layer of fabric from riding. The direction to stitch is indicated by small arrows on the pattern on the seamlines. INTERFACINGS—Select a high quality hair canvas for the front and collar of coats and jackets. The percentage of wool indicates the quality—the higher the wool content of the canvas the better the quality. Since a high percentage of wool makes the hair canvas fairly dark in color, it cannot be used successfully under light-colored fabrics. In these cases use an interfacing lighter in color and lower in wool content. -
Sew Any Fabric Provides Practical, Clear Information for Novices and Inspiration for More Experienced Sewers Who Are Looking for New Ideas and Techniques
SAFBCOV.qxd 10/23/03 3:34 PM Page 1 S Fabric Basics at Your Fingertips EW A ave you ever wished you could call an expert and ask for a five-minute explanation on the particulars of a fabric you are sewing? Claire Shaeffer provides this key information for 88 of today’s most NY SEW ANY popular fabrics. In this handy, easy-to-follow reference, she guides you through all the basics while providing hints, tips, and suggestions based on her 20-plus years as a college instructor, pattern F designer, and author. ABRIC H In each concise chapter, Claire shares fabric facts, design ideas, workroom secrets, and her sewing checklist, as well as her sewability classification to advise you on the difficulty of sewing each ABRIC fabric. Color photographs offer further ideas. The succeeding sections offer sewing techniques and ForewordForeword byby advice on needles, threads, stabilizers, and interfacings. Claire’s unique fabric/fiber dictionary cross- NancyNancy ZiemanZieman references over 600 additional fabrics. An invaluable reference for anyone who F sews, Sew Any Fabric provides practical, clear information for novices and inspiration for more experienced sewers who are looking for new ideas and techniques. About the Author Shaeffer Claire Shaeffer is a well-known and well- respected designer, teacher, and author of 15 books, including Claire Shaeffer’s Fabric Sewing Guide. She has traveled the world over sharing her sewing secrets with novice, experienced, and professional sewers alike. Claire was recently awarded the prestigious Lifetime Achievement Award by the Professional Association of Custom Clothiers (PACC). Claire and her husband reside in Palm Springs, California. -
Key Details We Look for at Inspection
Key Details We Look for at Inspection Please not that these lists are not all inclusive but highlight areas that most often cause difficulty. Additional details are included on spec sheets for individual costumes. Boys’ Costumes Achterhoek: 1. Overall appearance of costume 2. Do you have the correct hat? This is the high one. Volendam is shorter. 3. The collar extends to the edge of the shirt and can be comfortably buttoned at the neck. 4. Ring on scarf and is visible above vest. If necessary use a gold safety pin to hold the ring in place. 5. Is the scarf on the inside of the vest, front and back? 6. Shirt buttons are in the center of the front band 7. The vest closes left over right. 8. The chain is in the 2nd buttonhole from the bottom 9. Welt pockets are made correctly and in the correct position. 10. Pants clear shoes. 11. Pants have a 6” hem Marken: 1.Overall appearance of costume 2.Red shirt underneath jacket 3.Red stitching on jacket placket 4.Closes as a boy (L. over R.) 5.Pants at mid-calf when pulled straight 6.Pants down 1” from waist Nord Holland Sunday: 1. Overall appearance of costume 2. Correct hat and scarf 3. Neck - can fit 1 finger 4. 2 dickies (one solid and one striped) 5. Jacket - collar flaps lay smooth 6. Buttonholes are horizontal 7. Jacket closes as a boy (left over right) 8. Cord, hook and eye at back of pants 9. Pants clear shoes 10.6 inch hem Noord Holland Work: 1. -
Coats & Clark Surelock Serging Thread in a Contrasting Color Coats
HIP PATCHWORK TUNIC Lori Harder PO BOX 472147, CHARLOTTE, NC 28247 USA SEWING I SKILL LEVEL: INTERMEDIATE Featuring Coats & Clark Surelock Thread Fashion a patchwork tunic from recycled sweaters for a cute back-to- school look. Give it a deconstructed look by overlocking the seams on the right side of the tunic. MEASUREMENTS pattern piece this wide at the Girls 5/6 (adaptations given for top + 3/8” on each side for seam other sizes) allowance. For the width of the bottom of the pattern piece CUTTING add 1 inch or more to the above Prepare the sweater. measurement. To determine 1. Measure down from the length of pattern piece have shoulder seams to bustline child try on sweater and measure - approximately 6 ¾” for a from bustline down to desired girl’s size 5/6 and cut sweater length at hips and subtract 1 ½” around bustline. Use lower for the band. For the band use section of sweater to cut 2 the bustline measurement of the MATERIALS bands. sweater divided by 2 x 2 ¼”). Coats & Clark Surelock Serging Thread in a contrasting color 2. Cut 2 bands 2 ¼” x 12 ¾” cross Coats & Clark Button and Craft thread* grain for waistband SEWING 1 Fitted sweater 3. From the other sweater 4. Skirt: Pin one color sweater 3 or 4 colors of sweater fabric fabrics, cut 12 pieces of fabric to another at sides, Buttons * various colors using the wrong sides together and Serger/Overlock Sewing Machine pattern piece serge - stretching as you sew Pins to make the ru ed lettuce Scissors NOTE: If making a di erent size edge e ect. -
Textiles for Dress 1800-1920
Draft version only: not the publisher’s typeset P.A. Sykas: Textiles for dress 1800-1920 Textile fabrics are conceived by the manufacturer in terms of their material composition and processes of production, but perceived by the consumer firstly in terms of appearance and handle. Both are deeply involved in the economic and cultural issues behind the wearing of cloth: cost, quality, meaning. We must look from these several perspectives in order to understand the drivers behind the introduction of fabrics to the market, and the collective response to them in the form of fashion. A major preoccupation during our time frame was novelty. On the supply side, novelty gave a competitive edge, stimulated fashion change and accelerated the cycle of consumption. On the demand side, novelty provided pleasure, a way to get noticed, and new social signifiers. But novelty can act in contradictory ways: as an instrument for sustaining a fashion elite by facilitating costly style changes, and as an agent for breaking down fashion barriers by making elite modes more affordable. It can drive fashion both by promoting new looks, and later by acting to make those looks outmoded. During the long nineteenth century, the desire for novelty was supported by the widely accepted philosophical view of progress: that new also implied improved or more advanced, hence that novelty was a reflection of modernity. This chapter examines textiles for dress from 1800 to 1920, a period that completed the changeover from hand-craft to machine production, and through Europe’s imperial ambitions, saw the reversal of East/West trading patterns. -
Trims, Labels, Treads, Elastics, Underlying Fabrics, Zippers, Butto
10/12/2009 1 TRIMS AND FINDINGS Chapter 8 2 Findings and Trims Findings: trims, labels, treads, elastics, underlying fabrics, zippers, buttons, other closures, other miscellaneous items Trims: subdivision of findings – decorative materials – ribbons, braids, laces, other narrow fabric trims, appliqués, flowers, beads, sequins, other decorative items Findings/trims usually aren’t the reason for purchase but they are often the reason for discarding a garment 3 Performance Finding/trim must reflect same quality level as the fabric Performance of finding or trim could negate the performance of the body fabric Ex. If fabric is dry-clean only, the trims must be dry-cleanable 4 Establishing specs Often established by the suppliers themselves or by the manufacturers in partnership w/ the suppliers Too many types of findings and trims to be an expert on all and be able to write accurate specs on all – best to rely on the supplier of the specific type of finding you need 5 Aesthetic performance Must complement the appearance of the garment Must be considered in concert with the design, construction, and finish of the garment Need to be attractive, fashionable, and functional to help sell the garment 6 Functional Performance Includes utility and durability of the finding Utility includes: dimensional stability, appearance retention, comfort, ease of care, and safety Durability includes: strength, abrasion resistance, and degradation by chemical & other elements 7 Performance, Cont. Design, materials, and constructions of a garment interact to determine -
Facts About Fitting Agricultural Extension Service
South Dakota State University Open PRAIRIE: Open Public Research Access Institutional Repository and Information Exchange SDSU Extension Circulars SDSU Extension 1960 Facts about Fitting Agricultural Extension Service Follow this and additional works at: http://openprairie.sdstate.edu/extension_circ Part of the Agriculture Commons Recommended Citation Service, Agricultural Extension, "Facts about Fitting" (1960). SDSU Extension Circulars. 618. http://openprairie.sdstate.edu/extension_circ/618 This Circular is brought to you for free and open access by the SDSU Extension at Open PRAIRIE: Open Public Research Access Institutional Repository and Information Exchange. It has been accepted for inclusion in SDSU Extension Circulars by an authorized administrator of Open PRAIRIE: Open Public Research Access Institutional Repository and Information Exchange. For more information, please contact [email protected]. • Extension Circular 593 FITTING \ ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' .,,_-, ' , ...... ' ' I ' \ \ ' ' I • ' ' ' ' ..... -- -- ' - COOPERATIVE EXTENSION SERVICE SOUTH DAKOTA STATE UNIVERSITY, BROOKINGS U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE FACTS ABOUT • • • F I T T I N G A garment that fits well looks as if it "belongs" to are square shoulders, wide shoulders, narrow sloping . he wearer. Such a garment adapts itself to the stand- shoulders, rounded shoulders in the back, prominent ing, sitting, and moving positions of the person wear- back hips or side hips, sway back ( exaggerated hollow ing it. It is neither too loose nor too tight and it feel s at the waistline), large upper arm, very thin arms, and looks comfortable. It brings out the good points in short or long arms, short or long waist. the individual's figure and skillfully hides poor ones. Insuring a good fit may depend on fitting after the Begin With the Pattern basic fitting dress is cut and basted or after the ready- it is important then, if you are going to make a gar- made dress is bought. -
80739083.Pdf
3-~"'81 8-1355 ~.(O~ All About ... • Pattern Selection • Fabric Selection • Contemporary Techniques • Fusible Interfacings • Finishing Tips CONTENTS Page Pattern Selection. ............................................... .. 3 Fabric Selection ................................................ .. 3 Notions. ....................................................... .. 3 Pressing Points ................................................. .. 4 Inner Fabrics. .................................................. .. 4 Underlining. ................................................. .. 4 Interfacing. .................................................. .. 4 Lining. ..................................................... .. 5 Preparation ............................................ .. 5 Fabric. ...................................................... .. 5 Pattern Fit. .................................................. .. 5 Cutting and Marking. ......................................... .. 5 Comparison of Custom and Contemporary Tailoring Techniques. ...... .. 5 Front and Back Interfacing. ...................................... .. 5 Fusible Method-Front. ...................................... .. 5 onfusible Method-Back Reinforcement. ....................... .. 6 One-Piece Method. ........................................ .. 6 Two-Piece Method ......................................... .. 6 Applying Back Reinforcement .................................. .. 7 Lapel and Roll Line ............................................. .. 7 Marking the Roll Line , 8 Taping the -
Sewing Math: How to Add, Subtract, Multiply & Divide
PAGE 8 KITCHEN-KLATTER MAGAZINE, SEPTEMBER, 1974 it's gathered and full, the best proce dure is to sew the skirt to the bottom of the bodice and add an attractive purchased belt. If it's fairly straight or A-line, you can do that, or you can set SEWING MATH: it on flat and neat to the knit bodice, turn the seam upward (again toward the HOW TO ADD, knit) and topstitch. It's entirely possi SUBTRACT, ble, if your girl needs even more MULTIPLY & DIVIDE length, to cut the knit bodice long enough for a dropped waistline; then by Mary Feese the "new" dress can be worn with or without a belt, as its wearer prefers. As you re-use fabrics, you'll find buttons, zippers, and some trim that you don't need for the project in hand, yet that are too good to throw away. You look at that title and wonder, figures, the problems are somewhat Save them! Small buttons store well in "What on earth does that mean?" Well, different. Anything that fits this month pill bottles; larger ones can be put simply this: you can add, subtract, may not do so next month! Let's say into plastic sandwich bags to keep multiply, and divide with items of she has a good dress, whose fabric is them together, yet easily visible. To clothing your family already owns. Re well worth redoing - but there's just re-use zippers and various trims, take cycle, alter, remake, restyle, hand no room in the bustline. The "tank the time to spray-starch and press them down, freshen up - and come out with top" idea can solve this one. -
July 1909 : Bulletin of the United States Bureau of Labor, No. 83
DEPARTMENT OP COMMERCE AND LABOR BULLETIN OF THE BUREAU OF LABOR NO. 8 3 -JULY, 1909 ISSUED EVERY OTHER MONTH WASHINGTON GOVERNMENT PRINTING * OFFICE 1909 Digitized for FRASER http://fraser.stlouisfed.org/ Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis Digitized for FRASER http://fraser.stlouisfed.org/ Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis CONTENTS. Page. Women’s trade union movement in Great Britain, by Katherine Graves Busbey, A. B.: History of the movement........ ........................................ .............................. 1-5 Obstacles to organization of women................................................................. 5-10 Occupations temporary..................... ...................................................... 6 Low wages and low standard of living.................................................... 6,7 Class distinctions........................................................................................ 8,9 Liability to victimization and apathy...................................................... 9,10 Attitude of male trade unionists to organization of wom en ........................ 11-18 Growth of organization among women workers............................................ 18-22 Results of organization of women workers......................................................22-32 Aid secured through legal proceedings....................................................22,23 Recent legislation.........................................................................................23-25 Crusade against living-in and truck -
Em2246 1962.Pdf
AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE WASHINGTON STATE UNIVERSITY PULLMAN, WASHINGTON EXTENSION WORK IN AGRICULTURE AND HOME ECONOMICS IN COOPERATION W ITH U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE December, 1962 E. M. 2246 GARMENT FITTING Hazel L. Roberts Extension Clothing Specialist In ready to wear, do not purchase garments which require a good deal of making over. Remaking darts or shortening a waist or hem length does not involve as much work as remodeling a shoulder line which may involve resetting both sleeves and collar. The fit of a garment depends on the balance of its lines on the individual figure. This involves crosswise, lengthwise and seam lines. Figure 1 Figure 2 Crosswise grain is parallel to the floor at bust line and hip line. Lengthwise grain of the sleeve cap lies in the direction of the arm when it hangs straight at the sidee Side seams are perpendicul ar to the floor. E.M. 2246 Page 2 SOME COMMON FITTING PROBLEMS TO FIT THE BODICE, KEEP THE CROSSWISE GRAIN OF THE FABRIC STRAIGHT ACROSS THE BUSTLINE - Shoulder line too long - in addition to being uncomfortable the too long shoulder line may pull the neckline from the side of the neck. Rip out the sleeve and recut armhole using a pattern as a guide. It is best to shorten the shoulder line in the pattern before the garment is cut. - Shoulder line too short. If the fabric is firm, make a smaller seam at the armhole shoulder line. Lengthen the shoulder line of the pattern be fore cutting the garment. - Shoulders too square for shoulder line of garment - indicated by diagonal wrinkles from shoulder tip to center front or back.