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Tailoring Series TECHNIQUES for TAILORING UNDERLINING a TAILORED GARMENT—Underlining Is a Second Layer of Fabric. It Is Cut By
tailoring series TECHNIQUES FOR TAILORING UNDERLINING A TAILORED GARMENT—Underlining is a second layer of fabric. It is cut by the garment pattern pieces and staystitched to the wrong side of the corresponding outer sections before any seams are joined. The two layers are then handled as one. As a general guide, most suit jackets and coats look more pro- fessional when underlined. Underlining is especially recommended for lightweight wool materials, loosely woven materials and light- colored materials. For additional information on selecting fabrics for underlining and applying the underlining, see Lining a Shirt 01' Dress HE 72, N. C. Agricultural Extension Service. STAYSTITCHING—Staystitch all outer garment pieces before construction begins. If garment is underlined, stays-titching is done when the two layers of fabric are sewn together. Staystitch 1/3 in. outside seamline (on the seam allowance). Stay- stitch “ with matching cotton thread on all curved *areas that may stretch during construction such as necklines, side seams, shoulder seams, armholes, and side seams of skirt. Use directional stitching always to prevent stretching of fabric and to prevent one layer of fabric from riding. The direction to stitch is indicated by small arrows on the pattern on the seamlines. INTERFACINGS—Select a high quality hair canvas for the front and collar of coats and jackets. The percentage of wool indicates the quality—the higher the wool content of the canvas the better the quality. Since a high percentage of wool makes the hair canvas fairly dark in color, it cannot be used successfully under light-colored fabrics. In these cases use an interfacing lighter in color and lower in wool content. -
Ajsl ,QJI 8Ji)9
ajsL ,QJI 8jI)9 MINSTRY OF SOCIAL AFFAIRS L",uitom cz4 /ppaLf ('"oduaDon P'"zuocz1 Volume 2 TAILORING //, INTEGRATED SOCIAL SERVICES PROJECT aLSioJ 8jsto!*14I 3toj3JI J54o 4sjflko MINSTRY OF SOCIAL AFFAIRS cwitom c92/I/2a'LEf ?'oduation 57P/D 0 E15 ('uvzicul'um JoL CSPP nstzucto~ Volume 2 TAILORING g~jji~JI 6&= z#jJEi l tl / INTEGRATED SOCIAL SERVICES PROJECT wotsoi stoim 1oj3jw jsi.Lo 6suJf PREFACE The material which follows is .J l.a ,,h &*.aJIL& . part of a five volume series assem bled by the faculty and students of . 3aJ e~- t.l. -, r'- ,tY.. the University of North Carolina at L_:J q L--, X4 0-j VO Greensboro, Department of Clothing and Textiles, CAPP Summer Program. The CAPP, Custom Appar,1 Production LFJI L,4.," ,'"i u .U. J l Process, Program was initiated in Egypt as a part of the Integrated Social Services Project, Dr. Salah L-,S l k e. L C-j,,. El Din El Hommossani, Project Direc- - L0 C...J L'j tor, and under the sponsorship of 4 " r th Egyptian Ministry of Social !.Zl ij1.,1,,.B= r,L..,J1....J Affairs and the U.S. Agency for - .Jt , . -t. International Development. These materials were designed for use in . J L.Jt CSziJtAJI #&h* - L*J training CAPP related instructors t .L-- -- J and supervisors for the various programs of the Ministry of Social ._ . , .. .. Affairs and to provide such person- L , *i. l I-JL-j 6 h nel with a systematica,'ly organized und detailed curriculum plan which JL61tJ J..i..- J" could be verbally transferred to O| ->. -
80739083.Pdf
3-~"'81 8-1355 ~.(O~ All About ... • Pattern Selection • Fabric Selection • Contemporary Techniques • Fusible Interfacings • Finishing Tips CONTENTS Page Pattern Selection. ............................................... .. 3 Fabric Selection ................................................ .. 3 Notions. ....................................................... .. 3 Pressing Points ................................................. .. 4 Inner Fabrics. .................................................. .. 4 Underlining. ................................................. .. 4 Interfacing. .................................................. .. 4 Lining. ..................................................... .. 5 Preparation ............................................ .. 5 Fabric. ...................................................... .. 5 Pattern Fit. .................................................. .. 5 Cutting and Marking. ......................................... .. 5 Comparison of Custom and Contemporary Tailoring Techniques. ...... .. 5 Front and Back Interfacing. ...................................... .. 5 Fusible Method-Front. ...................................... .. 5 onfusible Method-Back Reinforcement. ....................... .. 6 One-Piece Method. ........................................ .. 6 Two-Piece Method ......................................... .. 6 Applying Back Reinforcement .................................. .. 7 Lapel and Roll Line ............................................. .. 7 Marking the Roll Line , 8 Taping the -
Super Stitches Sewing
Copyright © 2014 by RotoVision SA All rights reserved. Published in the United States by Potter Craft, an imprint of Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House LLC, a Penguin Random House Company, New York. www.pottercraft.com www.crownpublishing.com POTTER CRAFT and colophon is a registered trademark of Random House LLC. Library of Congress Cataloguing-in-Publication Data is available. ISBN: 978-0-7704-3479-3 eBook ISBN: 978-0-7704-3480-9 Photography: Sherry Heck Illustrations: Robert Brandt Cover photographs: Jen Campbell v3.1 Contents Cover Title Page Copyright How to use this book Section 1 Machine Stitches Straight stitch Basting stitch Zigzag stitch Three-step zigzag stitch Stem stitch Triple straight stitch Ric rac stitch Straight blind hem stitch Stretch blind hem stitch Manual buttonhole Automatic buttonhole Rounded buttonhole Keyhole buttonhole Stretch buttonhole Eyelet stitch Bound buttonhole Button stitch Overcasting stitch Stretch overedge stitch Double overedge stitch Closed overlock stitch Slant pin stitch Reverse overcast stitch Shell stitch Crescent stitch Serpentine stitch Fix stitch Auto backtack stitch Bartack stitch Darning stitch Honeycomb stitch Cross-stitch Walls of Troy stitch Feather stitch Fagoting stitch Rampart stitch Appliqué stitch Reverse appliqué stitch Asterisk stitch Ladder stitch Lattice stitch Pin stitch Double triangle stitch Quilt stitch Arrowhead stitch Banner stitch Bead stitch Diamond stitch Domino stitch Decorative stitches Section 2 Hand Stitches Backtack Backstitch Running stitch Basting -
EC74-493 Menswear... Front & Back Interfacing for Jackets
University of Nebraska - Lincoln DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln Historical Materials from University of Nebraska- Extension Lincoln Extension 1974 EC74-493 Menswear...Front & Back Interfacing for Jackets Jane Speece Follow this and additional works at: http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/extensionhist Speece, Jane, "EC74-493 Menswear...Front & Back Interfacing for Jackets" (1974). Historical Materials from University of Nebraska- Lincoln Extension. 4244. http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/extensionhist/4244 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Extension at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Historical Materials from University of Nebraska-Lincoln Extension by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. EC 74-493 ~ 'I !1.• \ \ \ Extension Service \ \ University of Nebraska- Lincoln College of Agriculture Cooperating with the \ U.S. Department of Agriculture and the College of Home Economics \ \ J. L Adams, Director \ \ \ \ ' \ MENSWEAR: FRONT AND BACK INTERFACING FOR JACKETS Jane Speece Extension Specialist (Clothing) Methods of tailoring menswear have increased some goat hair. If this is not available, use the within the last few years. Fusing products have cotton and rayon or cotton and polyester canvas. been used in tailoring to add a new element. About two yards of interfacing canvas should be Unstructured tailoring with few interfacings, often enough for the front interfacing plus undercollar with no lining or shoulder pads, has introduced a interfacing and shoulder pads. casual look. Techniques used in constructing wo Since menswear interfacing is built up through men's wear have been used in some men's jackets to the shoulder and chest area, you will also need gain a similar appearance. -
Contemporary . Techniques , - Fusible Interfacings - Finishing Tips Contents
B-l~5' , All About ... • Pattern Selection • Fabric Selec.tion -Contemporary . Techniques , - Fusible Interfacings - Finishing Tips Contents Pattern Selection 00000•000000000000000000 3 Fabric Selection.. 00000000000000000000•000•0000000000000•00•00000• 3 Notions 0 •••• 0 0 0 0 0 0 ••••• 0 0 0 0 0 0 000.0000.000 ••••• 000000•00000 •• 0 • 0 • 3 Inner Fabrics .... 0 0 0 •• 0 • 0 0 0 0 •• 0 •••••••••• 00000000000 •• 0 0 0 0 •• 0 0 0 0 • 3 Pressing Points . 0 0 •• 0 • 0 0 0 0 •• 0•00000000•00•00000000•000 ••• 0 0 0 0 •• 0 • 4 4 Prep~~~~~;~ :::: ~ :::: :-: :::::::::::::::::::::::: :.: :::::::::::::::: 4 ~ Pattern Fit 0 0 0 0 • 0 0 0 0 00000•000000000 0, 0 0 0 0 0 •• 00000•00•00000000 4 Marking. 000•00000000000•000•000•0 ••• 0 • 0- 00000000 •• 0 0 0 0 •• 0 0 0 0 4 Comparison of Custom and Contemporary Tailoring Techniques 0 0 0 0 • 0 • 0 4 Contemporary Tailoring Techniques 000•00•0•00•0•000•000•000•0•00 •• 4 ~ Darts .. 0 0 • 0 ••••• 00•000•0•000 0.' 0•0•000000•000000000•0000•0 •• 4 Lapped Method 0 0 • 0 0 0 0 0 0 •• 00•00000000000000•00000•00000 •• 4 Abutted Method 0 0 •• 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 •• 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 •• 0 0 0 0 0 • 0 ••• 0 • 0 0 4 Fusible Interfacing. 0 ••• 000000•0•00000 •• 0 0 • 0 0 0 • 0 •••••••• 0 0 4 Front Unit 0 •• 0 ••• 0 ••• 0000000•0•0 •••••• 0 0 0 0 •••••• 0 0 0 • 0 •• 0 •• 0 0 5 ~larking the Roll Line 0 0 • 0 ••••••• 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 ••••• 0 •• 0 • 0 • 0 0 0 0 5 Taping the Edges 0 0 0 • 0 •••••• 0 •••••• 0 0 • 0 • 0 •• 0 •• 0 ••• 0 •• 0 0 •• 5 ~lachine :\lethod... -
Preview Pages
Easily find the stitch you’re looking for with this handy guide, which is arranged by skill level and then divided into stitch selector functional and decorative stitches. skill level 1 functional stitches Tacking page 56 Slip tacking page 57 Diagonal tacking page 58 Running stitch page 61 Backstitching page 62 Overcasting page 63 Gathering page 64 Gauging page 65 Oversewing page 66 Herringbone stitch Slip stitch page 69 Serge stitch page 70 Prick stitch page 71 Slip hemming page 73 French tack page 78 page 67 Thread marking page 79 Tailor’s tack page 80 Chain bar tack page 81 Bar tack page 82 Straight tack page 83 Stab stitch page 84 Press studs page 88 Covered press studs Hooks and eyes page 90 Hooks and bars page 91 Buttons: two holes Buttons: four holes page 89 page 92 page 93 Mattress stitch, seaming Mattress stitch, seaming Mattress stitch, seaming Darning page 101 Grafting page 102 rows to rows page 96 stitches to stitches page 97 stitches to rows page 98 decorative stitches Split stitch page 113 Daisy stitch page 114 Seed stitch page 115 Sheaf stitch page 116 Stem stitch page 117 Blanket stitch page 120 Long and short blanket Laced running stitch Fly stitch page 126 Closed fl y stitch page 127 stitch page 121 page 123 Feather stitch page 128 Closed feather stitch Long-armed feather stitch Double feather stitch French knots page 132 Brick stitch page 134 page 129 page 130 page 131 Single cross stitch Cross stitch in horizontal Three-quarter cross stitch Horizontal swiss darning Vertical swiss darning Single beads page 158 page 136 -
REGISTRATION FORM | 866-554-8559 March 1–4, 2012
WWW.SEWEXPO.COM MANAGED BY: 866-554-8559 FASHION SEWING SHOPPING! SEMINARS! WORKSHOPS! SHOWS! STARS! 1 Sewing & SewingStitchery & Stitchery expo • February expo • march 25 - 128,–4, 20102012 NEEDLE EXPLanation We have SO many classes, seminars, and teaching events, we hope this “needle graphic” is helpful as you look at the many options available to you and choose your favorites. 2012 SEMINAR AND CLASS DESCRIPTIONS ONE-NEEDLE SEMINARS These traditional lecture/demo seminars are the hallmark DateS & TIMES of the Sewing & Stitchery Expo. Time: 45 minutes Gates open ............................................. 8:00 am Cost: $5 in advance. $6 at the show March 1, 2, 3 ....................... 8:00 am–6:00 pm TWO NEEDLE SEMINARS March 4 (Sunday) ............... 8:00 am–4:00 pm These classes will be presented in a lecture-demo for- Hands-On Seminars begin ..................... 8:00 am mat. Each class will teach a complete project or a spe- cific technique—and an extensive, educational handout In-Depth Seminars begin ....................... 8:00 am will be part of the class. Seminars Begin ....................................... 8:30 am Time: 1 hour 30 minutes Vendors Open ......................................... 8:30 am Cost: $20 THREE NEEDLE SEMINARS Students signing up for this class expect to learn a sew- TABLE OF CONTENTS ing and/or embellishing technique through a hands-on learning experience. Time: 2 hours 30 minutes Special Events ..................................................... 1 Cost: $30 One Needle Seminars ......................................... 2 Kit Fees: (See class descriptions) Two Needle Seminars ....................................... 18 Sewing Machine No Sewing Class (Machine Machine Three Needle Seminars .................................... 21 Provided) Class Four Needle Seminars........................................31 FOUR NEEDLE SEMINARS Style Shows ....................................................... 36 These classes are the half-day classes that take place Free Stage Shows ............................................. -
Education Media Center.; South Caroliria State Dept
DOCUMENT RESUME ED 090 408 CE 001 275 AUTHOR Blanton, Harriet; And Others TITLE Clothing and Textiles II. Semester Course. Draft. INSTITUTION Clemson Univ., S.C. Vocational Education Media Center.; South Caroliria State Dept. of Education, Columbia. Office of Vocational Education. PUB DATE 73 NOTE 64p.; For other guides in the unit, see CE 001 266-274 and CE 001 276 and 277 EDRS PRICE MP-$0.75 HC-$3.15 PLUS POSTAGE DESCRIPTORS Behavioral Objectives; Clothing Design; *Clothing Instruction; Consumer Education; Curriculum Development; *Curriculum Guides; Educational Resources; Evaluation Methods; *High School Curriculum; Homemaking Education; *Secondary Grades; Teacher Developed Materials; *Textiles Instruction IDENTIFIERS Fashion Models; South Carolina ABSTRACT The clothing and textiles guide for a second level semester course for grades 10-12 identifies objectives and learning experiences with basic reference to developmental tasks, needs, interests, capacities, and prior learning experiences of students. It was developed for use with students who exhibited skill and a high degree of satisfaction from projects constructed in Clothing and Textiles 1. The concepts presented in the guide are: custom tailoring and fashion design, tailored clothing, fashion design, and modeling techniques. Under each concept, three columns list behavioral objectives, learning and evaluation experiences, and teaching resources. (AO 411 t 1 '.22.,1.. Draft ClothingSemester and TextilesCourse II ConsumerOfficeState and PreparedDepartment ofHomemaking Vocational by: of Education EducationEducation Section VocationalColumbia, InEducation CooperationSouth CarolinaMedia with: Center29201 Clemson,Clemson So 1973"th UniversityCarolina 29631 Acknowledgements seriesof theGratefulThe ofguide. guideSaturday appreciation for writingClothing issessions and extended Textiles and to individual II,the afollowing second work level personsfrom semesterDecember who contributed course,1972 to wasMay to developed 20,the 1973.development in a Mr.andMrs.for EvansMrs. -
3 Beautiful Bags Exclusive Extract from the Forthcoming a Bag for All Reasons
3 Beautiful Bags Exclusive extract from the forthcoming A Bag for All Reasons Lisa Lam Contents Getting Started Adjustable Straps Bound Edges Basic Equipment Piped Edges The Sewing Machine Inserting Linings: Pull Through Using Patterns and Turn Out Method Modifying Patterns Understanding Patterns Projects Fabric Types The Compact Groceries Tote Fabric Preparation and Cutting Techniques The Fashionista Baby Bag Flush Zip Pocket The Fashionista Changing Mat Top Edge Zip The Fashionista Shoulder Strap Pad Slimline Concealed Top Edge Zip Magnetic Snaps The 3-in-1 Convertible Backpack Open-End Straps Templates Closed-End Straps Getting Started Basic Equipment If you sew as a hobby, the chances are you already have most of the essential equipment for bag making. As with Marking, measuring and pinning most things you get what you pay for, ✧ Disappearing marker – this is my favourite type of marker because it is more precise than so buy the best you can afford and chalk. Make your marks as desired and they will disappear within 48 hours. Always do a test on a you’ll need to replace items less often. small swatch of fabric to check suitability first. ✧ Hera marker (or bone folder) – this useful tool makes an indent in your fabric from pressure only, so it’s perfect if your fabric is unsuitable for a disappearing marker. It is also great for pre- creasing fabric when making folds or pleats. ✧ Tape measure – to make measurement conversions easier, choose a tape measure with both metric and imperial measurements printed Cutting on the same side. ✧ Rotary cutter – a rotary cutter greatly increases ✧ Sewing pins – I love flower flathead pins because the speed and accuracy of fabric cutting. -
Em4586 1980.Pdf (1.463Mb)
J._ \ ~ ' ;} ~, \J 'J7 /v\~ s i1s1 - c_ ( J f ")_. - • TAILORfilG Cooperative Extension College of Agriculture Washington State University Pullman, Washington - - - TAILORING PROJECT REQUIREMENTS Dorothy A. Ettl, Extension Clothing Specialist To complete tailoring you should: Diane S. Triplett, Home Economics Assistant • Learn ten new skills for tailoring from the 4-H Clothing Construction Skills Checklist, C 0677. Plan, select, and make at least one wardrobe item that will include some of the new tailoring construction skills. All ten new skills do not WHAT YOU'LL DO IN THIS PROJECT have to be on the garment you make. You can learn the other skills on additional garments or Tailoring is a special type of clothing construc by practicing on fabric samples. tion. It uses construction techniques to build and mold permanent shape into a garment. It re quires attention to detail, patience, and accuracy PLANNING YOUR PROJECT to make a garment that will hold its shape through repeated wearings and cleanings. Several types of garments will work well for tailoring: The tailoring project is designed for 4-H members who have learned the basic skills in Units 1, 2, Menswear Women's Clothing and 3 and have completed at least two special in suits coats terest projects. jackets suits vests jackets or blazers In the tailoring project you will learn: pants skirts topcoats pants • The characteristics of wool. dresses • The characteristics of a tailored garment. - , Pattern selection and fitting techniques for When you choose a pattern, think about the tailoring. clothes you have now, the places you go, the things you do, and your personal body lines and , Selection of fabric and notions for different coloring. -
Hand Stitches for Artisan Tailoring
HAND STITCHES FOR ARTISAN TAILORING INDEX 1. Tailor’s tacks 2. Pad stitch 3. Pick stitch 4. “Punto pelota” - Crossed stitch 5. Herringbone stitch 6. Basting stitch 7. Fell stitch 8. Buttonhole stitch 1. TAILOR’S TACKS Tailor’s tacks are made using cotton basting thread. They’re used to transfer markings from one piece of fabric to another. To create the tacks, baste along the marks you want to transfer. Leave every second stitch very loose. When you’ve basted all the markings, pull the two layers of fabric apart and cut the threads through the middle. Be careful not to cut the fabric. 2. PAD STITCH Pad stitching is used in the following parts of the jacket: - Canvas: the stitch is made with cotton thread. It’s used to hold every layer of the canvas together: interlining, horsehair canvas and felt. Make medium-length skewed stitches through every layer of fabric, going from top to bottom. Don’t allow any ease in. - Lapels: use regular sewing thread in a matching colour. In the lapels, the pad stitch holds the canvas and front panel together. It also gives the lapel its roll. Make small skewed stitches, going from top to bottom. Shape the lapel as you sew. - Collar: use regular sewing thread in a colour that matches the felt undercollar. The pad stitching fixes the felt to the fabric. It also gives the undercollar its roll and curved shape. Make small skewed stitches following the shape of the undercollar. 3. PICK STITCH For the pick stitch, use regular sewing thread.