3 Beautiful Bags Exclusive extract from the forthcoming A Bag for All Reasons

Lisa Lam Contents

Getting Started Adjustable Straps Bound Edges Basic Equipment Piped Edges The Machine Inserting Linings: Pull Through Using Patterns and Turn Out Method Modifying Patterns Understanding Patterns Projects Fabric Types The Compact Groceries Tote Fabric Preparation and Cutting Techniques The Fashionista Baby Bag Flush Zip Pocket The Fashionista Changing Mat Top Edge Zip The Fashionista Shoulder Strap Pad Slimline Concealed Top Edge Zip Magnetic Snaps The 3-in-1 Convertible Backpack Open-End Straps Templates Closed-End Straps

 Getting Started Basic Equipment If you sew as a hobby, the chances are you already have most of the essential equipment for bag making. As with Marking, measuring and pinning most things you get what you pay for, ✧ Disappearing marker – this is my favourite type of marker because it is more precise than so buy the best you can afford and chalk. Make your marks as desired and they will disappear within 48 hours. Always do a test on a you’ll need to replace items less often. small swatch of fabric to check suitability first.

✧ Hera marker (or bone folder) – this useful tool makes an indent in your fabric from pressure only, so it’s perfect if your fabric is unsuitable for a disappearing marker. It is also great for pre- creasing fabric when making folds or .

✧ Tape measure – to make measurement conversions easier, choose a with both metric and imperial measurements printed Cutting on the same side. ✧ Rotary cutter – a rotary cutter greatly increases ✧ Sewing – I love flower flathead pins because the speed and accuracy of fabric cutting. Also they are pretty and they prevent sore fingertips, look out for rotary blade sharpeners, which will sometimes caused by pushing pins through lots save you money on replacing dull blades. of layers.

✧ Cutting mat – for use with a rotary cutter. ✧ Hand-sewing needle – although you will be Choose one that has both imperial and metric mostly sewing by machine, there are times when gridlines (inches and centimetres). The gridlines hand sewing is unavoidable – such as when the are also really helpful when drafting your own can’t reach the areas you need bag patterns. to , or when sewing on for example. ✧ Dressmaking – choose scissors that all the way through to the tip, are as heavy as is comfortable (as the weight aids cutting stability), and are angled with the handles raised upwards.

✧  scissors – small, fine-pointed scissors are essential for precision snipping. Sharpen up …

✧  ripper – for unpicking seams and perfect Keep blades on all cutting for making tiny incisions for magnetic snaps and equipment sharp for safer and . Always replace dull seam rippers to more precise cutting. prevent you from having to push too hard, which could result in slipping and tearing the fabric.

Getting Started Bag-making tools – for of use and None of these tools are exotic or hard to to make long-lasting bags, obtain. They are all simple items, which I have use good quality all-purpose collected over the years. To make life easier polyester thread. It might and to get the best results from your bag be tempting to buy cheaper making, try adding these items to your tool kit. thread but this breaks more easily, which makes it unsuitable for bag making. Bodkin – a bodkin is used for speedy threading of cord or elastic through fabric tubes or casings. Loop turner – this simple Attach the cord/elastic tool is used for turning to the bodkin and thread fabric tubes the right the bodkin through your way out for speedy fabric tube. fabric strap making.

Tailors awl – an awl is useful for making holes in fabric for rivets, poking out corners in fine straps (when turning out), or even coaxing small parts of your bag underneath the sewing machine foot (to help the grab the fabric). Sewing clips/mini Two types are available – bulldog clips – use one with a sharp point, the these strong clips to other with a ballpoint tip. hold pieces of fabric together temporarily when sewing pins are Hole punch – use a hole unsuitable, such as punch to cut neat holes when your layers are in fabric for eyelets or very thick. popper snaps. This hole punch has various sized hole-cutter attachments and a smaller grip, which is great for small hands. Hammer and pliers – use a small hammer when you are working with rivets and eyelets (). Fabric glue – use Use two pairs of pliers for good-quality clear- opening and closing metal drying fabric glue for rings and links in purse when sewing isn’t an chains. Jewellery pliers option. Good fabric are especially suited to glue can be just as those with small hands. effective as stitching.

Getting Started The Sewing Machine A sewing machine is the most important tool in making bags but it doesn’t need to be a grand or costly affair. There are only two features that I insist on: a powerful motor and a free arm. The others listed here, while not essential, are useful to have.

Variable speed selector – this is different from the speed controlled by a foot pedal; it Needle up/down – there’s overrides the pedal by setting the maximum always lots of stopping and starting speed of the machine. in bag making and having a button that tells the machine to stop with Long arm – gives the needle down is so useful. When you extra table the needle is down your work can’t space to the right escape and you can turn neat and of the needle, great precise corners. for when you are sewing large or bulky bags as there Thread cutter – having are times when your threads cut at the you don’t want to touch of a button isn’t scrunch up your necessary, but it is bag to fit it under certainly very nice. the machine.

Free arm – incredibly useful in bag making. It makes sewing narrow fabric tubes (such as sleeves) and small- to medium- sized purses much easier.

✧ Powerful motor – a must for coping with all of those fabric Don’t be shy in the shop – ask to have a flick through the (and ) layers. machine manual. Also look on the internet for support and user manuals for your machine. ✧ Good stability – when sewing at breakneck speeds or working with thick layers, the last thing you want is your ✧  winding system – different sewing machines have machine to shake and judder. Choose a machine that has different systems for bobbin winding. While in the shop, a good weight and a wide, stable base. Ask to see or test ask to see how the bobbin is wound and check you are the machine in action at maximum speed. happy with the method.

✧ Build quality – how solid does the machine feel? I prefer ✧ Dual feed system – this is a feature on some sewing heavy machines (the more metal the better) because they machines that makes working with several and/or thick will last longer (with fewer machine services) and they layers much easier because this system feeds the layers will vibrate less. through the machine evenly and at the same speed. In normal sewing, the bottom layer gets fed through the ✧ Instruction manual – I am a stickler for a good manual machine just before the top layer and this results in the because no matter how experienced you are there will be top layer creeping forwards, which can be a real pain. plenty of occasions when you’ll need to turn to it for help.

Getting Started Machine feet There are various feet required for different kinds of stitches and applications, so you need to think about the stitches you want to use and research to see which types of feet are appropriate for your needs. If you are about to purchase a sewing machine, see which feet are supplied with the machine, then ask the dealer if they will throw in some extra feet for free (and ask about any other freebies too!).

clear foot foot non-stick foot seam standard allowance presser foot guide

✧ Standard presser foot – this is the foot that you will ✧ Zipper foot – makes sewing very close to the edge of an make the most use of. With this versatile foot you can item much easier, and is also essential for sewing zips. sew straight and , and the majority of the more decorative stitches too. ✧ Non-stick foot – this foot is brilliant for ‘sticky’ fabric such as laminated cotton, oilcloth, vinyl and leather. ✧ Clear presser foot – this is a standard presser foot, but instead of being metal, it’s made from transparent ✧ Seam allowance guide – this is not a foot, but is a plastic, which makes seeing things like notches and handy metal edge that screws to the bed of the machine markings on your fabric so much easier. and is very useful for professional-looking topstitching. Set your desired on the guide, then butt ✧ Piping foot – if you’re going to sew with any amount the edge of your work to the seam allowance guide and of piping, a piping foot is a must. away you go.

Machine stitches I’ve been making bags for over eight years and in that time I’ve only ever used two machine stitches. Zigzag stitch – every now and again I use zigzag to stitch over the raw edges – this is of fabric to prevent it basically the only stitch from fraying. I ever really use.

Getting Started Using Patterns The patterns at the back of the book are all full-size, which means there is no need for a photocopier. Some of the projects have two or more pieces (which are indicated on the patterns), others have just one pattern piece and some projects simply use rectangles given as measurements within the project instructions.

Get a large sheet of suitable paper. I usually use 1 pale tissue paper, but you can also use , greaseproof (wax) paper or dressmaking paper. Iron the paper and the pattern sheet on a low setting.

Lay the paper over your chosen pattern piece 2 and, using pins or sticky tape, secure the paper to the pattern so that it can’t move around.

Take a soft leaded pencil (you don’t want to rip 3 holes in your paper with a hard pencil) and trace a around your pattern shape. Also trace the various pattern markings, notches and darts if appropriate. Fig a Use a soft leaded pencil to trace the patterns and See Fig a. pattern markings to get nice easy-to-see outlines, and you’ll avoid ripping the tracing paper. Lay out your traced pattern pieces onto your 4 fabric. Align your pattern with the fabric’s straight . If the pattern piece instructs you to place it on a fold, fold your fabric as shown in Fig b. Pay attention to the direction of your pattern – are the pattern pieces the right way up? Accordingly, is the pattern on your fabric also the right way up?

Pin your pattern pieces to your fabric and 5 cut the fabric around the pattern shapes. See Fig c. Alternatively, you can your patterns to your fabric and then trace around the outline of your pattern pieces with disappearing marker or b chalk to get an outline for fabric cutting. Fig b To place a pattern piece on a fold, fold the fabric wrong Transfer any pattern markings and notches from sides together and position the fold line of the pattern onto 6 the pattern piece to your fabric pieces using the folded edge of the fabric. chalk or disappearing marker. See Fig d.

Getting Started c d

Fig c I prefer to pin and cut around the pattern pieces Fig d While the pattern is still pinned to the fabric, transfer because it’s faster than tracing the pattern and then cutting. the various pattern markings onto the fabric.

Label snob … Label your pattern pieces before and after Increasing the size using them; fold them carefully, and • First decide how much larger you would like store in an envelope. Also store in the your finished bag to be. Take that measurement, envelope any notes you make during bag divide it in half and add that halved measurement construction, ready for next time. all around the edge of the bag pattern piece(s). Say, for example, you want your finished bag to be 10cm (4in) larger overall; you would add a 5cm (2in) margin all around the outside of the bag pattern piece(s). Always remember to add on your seam allowance if you haven’t already.

• N.B. If your pattern piece is marked with a ‘place Modifying on fold’ instruction you will need to add your margin around all pattern edges except the edge Patterns where you are instructed to ‘place on fold’. If you are a sewing ‘newbie’ the thought of Decreasing the size deviating from a pattern may seem like a crazy • First decide how much smaller you would like thing to do, but it’s actually very easy to make your finished bag to be. Take that measurement, pattern modifications to suit you (or your outfit!). divide it in half and subtract that halved In their simplest form, bags are a front, a back measurement from all around the edge of the and a couple of handles. But you can jazz up bag pattern piece(s). Say, for example, you want even a basic bag by changing its size, adding a your finished bag to be 10cm (4in) smaller overall; pocket, inserting a zip or a snap, or changing the you would subtract a 5cm (2in) margin from all handles, for example. Here you will find guidance around the inside of the bag pattern piece(s), on changing the size of the bag as the first step remembering to include your seam allowance if to modifying a pattern. Because bag making is you haven’t already. less complicated than dressmaking you’ll find that it’s far more forgiving if you haven’t quite • N.B. If your pattern piece is marked with a ‘place got the measurements 100 per cent right. In fact, on fold’ instruction you will need to subtract your half the fun of bag making is that you can often margin from around all pattern edges except the make it up as you go along. I do it all the time! edge where you are instructed to ‘place on fold’.

Getting Started Understanding Patterns Besides the pattern shape, there is a variety of other information on the pattern pieces. This brief guide will help you understand what the terms mean and what they are for.

pattern piece name and notch standard information

Top

grain line The 3-in-1 Convertible Backpack (Pocket Flap)

5 of 5

3 Includes 1cm ( ∕8in) seam allowance

snap marking seam allowance information

✧ Seam allowance – this is the distance between the edge of the fabric piece(s) and the . So, if a pattern indicates that the seam allowance is 1cm 3 3 Language skills … ( ∕8in), you need to sew your stitches 1cm ( ∕8in) in from the edge of the fabric. A pattern should always state the seam You’ll quickly become familiar with allowance size and whether or not it has been included in sewing terms and abbreviations. the pattern. Keep referring back to these pages until you become confident. ✧ Grain lines – these are the two pointed arrows that help you to align the pattern piece with the straight grain of the fabric. The top arrow points to the top edge of the fabric and the bottom arrow points to the bottom edge of the fabric. The straight grain of the fabric runs parallel to the selvedge (the non-fraying edge of the fabric, which often has the company and fabric name printed on it).

Getting Started ✧ Fold lines – when a pattern piece says ‘place on fold’ you ✧ Other markings – magnetic snap/bag handle hook/zip need to fold your fabric wrong sides together and place pocket etc. markings need to be traced onto your patterns, the appropriate edge of the pattern piece onto the fabric and then transferred to your fabric pieces. fold. In this way, the resulting cut fabric piece will be double the size; a mirror image joined at the fabric fold.

✧ Notches – these are the small vertical lines that appear on the pattern piece outline. These useful markings help you to match up seams and fabric edges accurately. Pattern pieces that need joining up will have corresponding notches. Transfer pattern notches to your fabric pieces using a disappearing marker or make small nicks with sharp scissors.

Glossary of terms and abbreviations In addition to the patterns, you will also need to be able to follow the written instructions for each technique or project. The following terms are used throughout this book and in other commercial patterns.

✧ Bag /bag exterior – most bags have a lining and ✧ Topstitching – a line of stitches that runs close and an exterior, which essentially means that most bags parallel to an edge on the right side of your work. The consist of two bags (the inside bag and the outside distance between the stitches and the edge will vary bag). Each bag is made separately before being joined according to your preference or the instructions in together towards the end of construction. In this book the project. Topstitching is very useful in that it often I refer to the inside bag as the ‘lining bag’ and the serves both decorative and reinforcing functions. outside bag as the ‘exterior bag’. ✧ Turning right side out (sometimes abbreviated ✧ Clip – clipping your seam allowance helps seams lie flat – TRSO) – simply means that you need to turn your when you turn your project right side out by reducing (inside out) work the right way out. Turning wrong bulk in the seams (especially curved seams). For side out means the reverse of the above. inward curves cut small V-shapes pointing towards the ✧ WS – wrong side – the reverse or back of your work stitching along the seam allowance close, but not too or fabric. close, to the stitching. For outward curves make small scissor nicks pointing towards the stitching (again, not ✧ WST – wrong sides together – bring two pieces of too close to the stitching). fabric together so that the wrong sides of the fabrics are touching each other. ✧ Clip corners – snipping off the seam allowance reduces bulk in the seams of straight corners and makes for ✧ WSO – wrong side out – the wrong side of your work/ smoother and sharper corners on your bag when it is fabric is outwards. turned right side out. This results in neater rectangular ✧ WSU – wrong side up – the wrong side of your work/ pockets or fabric straps, for example. Before turning fabric is facing upwards. right side out, off the corner tips of your work ✧ RS – right side – the good or the front side of your fabric close, but not too close, to the stitching. or work. ✧ Raw edges – refers to the cut, unstitched and ✧ RST – as WST, but with the right side. unfinished edges of fabric. ✧ RSO – as WSO, but with the right side. ✧ Sewing in a box formation – particularly useful for stitching strap ends down securely onto your work. ✧ RSU – as WSU, but with the right side. Stitch the item in a box shape for extra strength and durability.

Getting Started Fabric Types Fabric falls into two main categories: dress (or fashion) weight and upholstery/curtain (or home dec) fabric. As bag makers, we can use both types – dress-weight fabric is generally better suited to bag linings and upholstery fabric is better for bag exteriors, However, that is only a loose rule and there are interfacing tricks that you can apply to your fabrics to override that rule. Here are some fabric suggestions that work a treat for bag making.

Linen This versatile, hardwearing and natural fabric is available in both dress and home dec weight. The linen that bag Laminated cloth/oilcloth makers like to use is the Usually used for the exterior natural biscuit-coloured of bags, this vinyl-coated home dec weight fabric. fabric comes in fantastic The colour of the undyed prints and has a tough cloth with its attractive waterproof surface, making it irregular weave makes it Cotton/quilt fabric This perfect for swim bags, travel a great foil for embroidery type of fabric is used both in bags and wash bags. The and/or patterned fabrics. the lining and the exterior vinyl has a tendency to stick of bags. Cotton is available to the bed of your sewing in many different weights, machine making sewing with but for bag making try to it quite awkward (see tip). use mid-weight cotton and up. Quilting fabric is usually made from cotton and comes in a fantastic array of Oilcloth know-how ... colourful, beautiful and fun If you plan to sew with prints. You can use cotton for laminated cloth regularly, it is almost any type of bag. worth investing in a non-stick sewing machine foot.

Getting Started Canvas/denim Usually Velvet This is a luxury fabric used for the exterior of that has fabulous depth Wool/suiting fabric Usually bags, canvas is available in of colour and a strokeable used for the exterior of bags, different weights. Choose texture. The nicest velvet is wool is fabulous for bag the heaviest weight that your made from cotton. Velvet is making. Wool is available in sewing machine can cope available in different weights different weights, patterns with. Canvas is strong and – choose the heaviest weight and textures. Its incredible it has rugged good looks. Be that your sewing machine can depth of colour and its yummy sure to use a jeans needle cope with. Velvet frays easily texture make wool a luxurious when sewing with canvas so it’s wise to sew with a fabric to work with and use. and denim. I think canvas wider seam allowance. If your Wool is hardwearing, but for looks best on larger bags such velvet is quite thick or you bag making it usually requires as shoppers, messenger bags, will be sewing through a few interfacing of some kind. Wool travel bags and beach bags. layers use a jeans needle. Try has a more open weave so a using velvet for handbags, strong dressmaking needle clutches and special is sufficient. Try using wools occasion bags. Corduroy is for handbags, clutches and similar to velvet in its uses messenger bags. and material qualities.

Silk/satin Used both as the exterior or lining, silks and satins are luxury fabrics that have beautiful looks, texture and movement. Silk looks gorgeous pleated or gathered. Try to stick to heavier weight silk/satin because it’s more durable and Faux/real suede Usually used for the exterior of bags, easier to sew with, while fine silk and faux suede is similar in nature to velvet. Real suede satin are very slippery. Natural dupion silk is dense and harder to sew through than woven faux is sturdy, has a lovely soft-sheen and an suede. If you feel that suede is too fragile for your bags interesting texture from the small slubs in it can be strengthened with interfacing. Be sure to use the fabric. Shimmery satin fabric makes a a leather needle for sewing suede. Try using real suede glamorous lining in an evening bag. Use a for smaller special occasion bags and small handbags. fine sewing machine needle when sewing Real and faux leather is similar in its uses to suede but with silk or satin. Try using silk or satin for has a shiny surface, often requiring a non-stick sewing any special occasion bags and purses. machine foot.

Getting Started Fabric Preparation and Cutting There’s nothing like making a start on a new sewing project. But before you rush in with your scissors it’s worth taking time to prepare and cut your fabrics in a methodical way. The following tips will help you speed up the cutting process and end up with a more professional-looking bag.

Fabric preparation tips ✧ If you want to be able to wash your bags, you will need to pre-wash your fabric to prevent the fabric from shrinking during washing. Put your fabric in a mesh bag to help prevent the raw edges fraying in the washing machine. Note: I don’t pre-wash my fabrics because I don’t think it’s a good idea to wash bags. I prefer to ‘spot wash’ by dabbing the affected area with a moist cloth and a mild detergent.

✧ Rather than washing your fabrics, you could a try using fabric protector sprays instead to help repel dirt and block stains. Always read the Fig a Wherever possible iron fusible interfacing (if using) instructions and test the spray on a small piece onto the WS of fabrics before pattern cutting. This saves the of your fabric first to ensure it is suitable. bother of having to match up and iron an interfacing pattern piece to the fabric pattern piece. ✧ Always iron your fabrics thoroughly before cutting them.

✧ Speed things up by ironing woven fusible interfacing (if using) to the wrong side of fabrics before cutting out. See Fig a.

✧ A finger presser is a handy non-heat tool that can be used in place of an iron. The flat surface is angled so that it can effectively flatten seams open or make folds in fabric – perfect for when working with laminated cloth or for ‘quickie’ ironing jobs during sewing.

✧ It is always a good idea to use a pressing cloth b when ironing onto the RS of your fabrics. A pressing cloth will protect your precious work Fig b A rotary cutter makes cutting straight edges so much from dirt, scorch and water marks from your iron. faster and neater. If you have a steady hand, a rotary cutter is great for curved edges too. Always use a rotary cutting mat – they not only protect your table, they also help keep the blade sharper for longer.

Getting Started Fabric cutting tips ✧ Always cut on a flat surface and clear the decks before you get cutting.

✧ Always use sharp scissors or a sharp rotary cutter for cutting your fabrics. This will ensure that you get clean and accurate cuts every time. If you are using a rotary cutter ensure that you cut on a rotary cutting mat. See Fig b.

✧ Follow the grain lines on your patterns to ensure that fabric designs don’t appear wonky (see c Understanding Patterns). Fig c Another pattern cutting time-saving trick is to stack ✧ Try laying the fabrics and interfacing/interlining and pin the fabric and interfacing pieces on top of each other pieces carefully on top of each other and then before cutting. laying the pattern pieces on the top before pinning all layers and cutting. See Fig c. However, if your stacked up layers are too tall you will end up with very scruffy edges and your scissors won’t be happy at having to cut through all of those layers. If this is the case, try layering your lining and exterior fabrics together and cutting, and then layer your interlinings together and cutting.

✧ If using fabrics with a directional pattern and you are layering your fabrics before cutting (as suggested above) be sure to check that your d fabrics are the right way up. You don’t want to end up with fabric pattern pieces with designs Fig d Sewing clips are essential when working with that are upside down. laminated cotton and are quick and easy to use.

Working with laminated cotton Though they may look the same, the new laminated cotton fabrics differ from the heavier oilcloths. ✧ Reinforcing: for larger bags and/or hardworking Laminated cottons are far more home sewing- bags, I strongly recommend ironing woven machine friendly. I’ve had lots of fun experimenting fusible woven interfacing onto the WS of the with this fabric and I’ve found it a treat to sew fabric. Use steam to ensure a good bond. Without with. Here are some tips to help ensure you enjoy interfacing, the fabric has a tendency to stretch. working with it too! ✧ Clip together: never use sewing pins on ✧  Ironing : if you are careful, laminated cotton can laminated cotton. Sewing pins will ‘scar’ the be ironed/steam ironed. Always iron on the WS fabric leaving unsightly holes that cannot be using a medium setting and pass the iron over removed. Instead use sewing clips or mini the fabric in quick sweeping movements. Never bulldog clips to hold pattern pieces together let a hot iron sit on the fabric or it will pucker before stitching. See Fig d. and misshape.

Getting Started Techniques Flush Zip Pocket This is probably my most commonly used type of pocket because it’s so useful. A flush zip pocket is the perfect solution for keeping important items safe. This style of pocket is usually placed up and away from the bottom of your bag.

You will need Need to know • To gauge the width of your pocket fabric decide how wide you • Nylon all-purpose want your pocket to be and add two lots of seam allowance. The zip, at least 10cm 1 pocket fabric width should always be at least 8cm (3 ⁄8in) longer (4in) shorter than the width of your pocket than your zip. • 2 pieces of fabric for the • To gauge the height of your pocket fabric decide how high you pocket. To gauge the want your pocket to be (measuring from the zip itself to the bottom width and height of your edge of the pocket) and add 5cm (2in). pocket fabric pieces 3 see Need to know • All seam allowances are 1cm ( ⁄8in) unless stated otherwise. • Ruler • Make up your pockets and stitch them to your bag fabric BEFORE • Hand- constructing your bags. • Zipper sewing machine foot •  • 6mm (¼in) double- sided tape • Disappearing marker

Trim the zip – if your zip is too long, trim it to 1 the desired length. Cut the zip from the zip pull side. Ensure that you leave at least a 2cm (¾in) clearance for the zip side seam allowance. a See Fig a. Fig a Trim the zip to size from the zip pull end. Ensure that you leave a 2cm (¾in) clearance to the side of your cut for the zip side seam allowance.

Techniques The beauty of nylon … I prefer nylon zips because you can safely cut them and sew through them without hurting your scissors or sewing machine.

Stitch the zip pull ends together – take a hand- 2 sewing needle and hand stitch the zip pull ends together. See Fig b. b

Mark and make a hole for the zip – take your Fig b Hand stitch the zip pull ends together for a 3 zip and measure the length of the zip teeth (not professional-looking zip – you don’t have to be very neat the length of the zip itself). Now draw a rectangle as these hand stitches won’t be on show. 3 as wide as your zip teeth by 1cm ( ⁄8in) high onto the WS centre of one of the pocket fabric pieces. This rectangle will be the hole for your zip and it needs to be drawn at least 5cm (2in) down from the top edge of your pocket fabric. Finally, in the middle of the rectangle draw a centre line with a V-shape at both ends. See Fig c1–c2.

c2

Fig c1–c2 To gauge the width of the rectangle, measure the length of the zip teeth (not the whole zip). The rectangular hole needs to be drawn at least 5cm (2in) down from the top edge of pocket fabric.

c1

Techniques Stitch the pocket fabric piece to your bag 4 fabric – place the pocket fabric WSU onto your bag fabric piece at least 7cm (2¾in) down from the top edge of your bag fabric to provide enough clearance for you to add internal fasteners (if using) and for you to sew your lining to your exterior at a later stage. Pin the pocket piece into position and stitch the pocket fabric to the bag fabric – stitch only on the rectangle. See Fig d1–d2.

d1 d2

Fig d1–d2 There is a clearance of 7cm (2¾in) between the top edge of the pocket fabric and the top edge of the bag fabric; stitch only along the rectangle outline.

Cut the rectangular hole and feed the fabric 5 through the hole – using the seam ripper make a small incision in the central line of the rectangle large enough for your scissors. You need to cut though both layers of the fabric. Cut along the entire length of the central line. Also cut along the V-shapes, but avoid cutting into the stitching of the outer rectangle. See Fig e.

e

Fig e Cut along the central line. When you reach the V- shapes, cut into them as well, but don’t get too close to the outer rectangle stitching.

Techniques Feed the pocket fabric through the hole – pull 6 the pocket fabric through the rectangular hole to the WS of the bag fabric (as if you are posting a fabric letter). See Fig f. Thoroughly iron the RS and the WS of the rectangular hole.

Stitch the zip to the bag fabric – apply a strip 7 of double-sided tape to both long edges of the RS of the zip (so that the edges of the tape and the zip match) and peel off the backings. Take your bag fabric RSU and place the rectangular hole onto the zip. Manipulate the edges of the rectangle until it is lying evenly on the zip and the zip is positioned perfectly central within the rectangle. Press down to bond. Attach the zipper foot to your sewing f 1 machine and stitch all around the zip 2mm ( ⁄16in) from the edge of the rectangle. See Fig g1–g2. Fig f Pull every piece of the pocket fabric through the rectangular hole.

g1 g2

Fig g1–g2 The zip is taped into a straight and even position inside the rectangle ready to be sewn to the bag fabric; stitch all along the edge of the rectangle to secure the zip to the bag fabric.

Assemble the rest of the pocket – turn your bag 8 fabric over so that the WS of the pocket and the zip is facing up. Place the remaining pocket fabric WSU onto the pocket piece (with zip attached). Fold the top edge of the bag fabric down out of the way so you can begin pinning and stitching along the top edge of the pocket. Pin and stitch all around the pocket. As you sew, ensure the bag fabric is kept out of the way to avoid stitching through it. h See Fig h. The pocket is now complete. Fig h The pocket pieces are pinned together. The bag fabric is folded out of the way to avoid sewing through it while the pocket is stitched together.

Techniques Top Edge Zip This tutorial shows you how to insert a top edge zip into a pencil case, but the method would be the same for a tote bag, for example. Zips may look scary, but they are quite simple to apply. Start off with this top edge zip technique and you’ll wonder why you stayed away from them for so long. Need to know • All seam allowances are 3 1cm ( ⁄8in) unless stated You will need otherwise. • Nylon all-purpose zip, 20cm (8in) • 2 pieces of home dec exterior fabric, 24 x 10cm (9½ x 4in) for the exterior main body • 2 pieces of home dec Trim the zip with the zip tabs – take exterior fabric, 4 x 3.5cm 1 one of the zip tab fabric pieces RSU 3 (1½ x 1 ∕8in) for the and fold under one of the short edges 3 zip tab a 1cm ( ∕8in). Place the folded edge of the • 2 pieces of lining fabric zip tab onto the RS of one of the ends of 24 x 10cm (9½ x 4in) for Fig a Fabric tabs on the zip will the zip and stitch along the folded edge. make the zip lie flat at the top the lining main body corners of the case and also help to See Fig a. The raw zip tab edge should • Zipper sewing make it look pretty. meet the zip end edge. Repeat with the machine foot other zip tab and the other end of the zip. • Pins Attach one side of the zip onto one • Pointy tool (such as a 2 side of the pencil case – make a knitting needle) zipper sandwich as follows. Starting from the bottom: lining fabric piece RSO on the bottom, zip RSO in the middle, and exterior piece WSO on the top. Carefully and neatly match up all of the edges and pin the layers at the long top edge. See Fig b. Attach the zipper foot to your sewing machine b and stitch through the three layers, along the pencil case top edge. Stitch 3 Fig b Make up a three-layered with a 5mm ( ∕16in) seam allowance. zippy sandwich as shown.

Techniques c1 Figc2 c1–c2 along the folded edge – this should

Fig c1–c2 Topstitch along the folded edge – this should Topstitch the zip on the RS of the pencil case be the result: one zip inserted neatly into your lining and 3 – flip the layers over so that the exterior and the exterior fabrics. zip is RSO. Topstitch neatly along the folded edge of the exterior fabric. Repeat steps 2 and 3 with the other side of the zip and the exterior and lining fabric pieces. See Fig c.

Pin and stitch the pencil 4 case together – nb: ensure the zip is unzipped. Flip the fabric layers over so that the RS of the lining pieces are touching each other and the RS of the exterior pieces are touching each other. Match up the edges all around and pin – the zip will naturally curve towards the lining. See Fig d1. Stitch all around the pencil case, but d1 d2 1 leave a gap of 8cm (3 ∕8in) in the bottom edge of the lining. See Fig d1 Pin the case as shown, the Fig d2 Following the drawn line, stitch Fig d2. Clip off all corners. zip will naturally curve up towards along the sides and bottom of the case the lining. leaving a gap in the lining.

Turn the pencil case right side 5 out – reach into the gap in the lining and through the open zip to turn the pencil case RSO. See Fig e. So that’s why the zip needed to Careful clipping … be open! Push all the corners out When clipping off using a pointy tool such as a fat all the corners, take knitting needle. extra care not to cut through your stitches. Stitch the gap in the lining 6 shut – fold the raw edges of the 3 gap 1cm ( ∕8in) into the hole, press e and topstitch the hole shut. Smooth out any bumps and iron the case. Fig e Pull the exterior case out through the hole in the case lining.

Techniques Slimline Concealed Top Edge Zip

This zip closure not only looks very neat and sophisticated (because it is hidden from view) it also brings the bag’s top edges closer together – perfect for when your bag is wide at the base and you want a slim, streamlined look at the top.

Need to know You will need • Interface the lining fabric if necessary – the steps that follow assume that • Nylon all-purpose zip, the you have already interfaced your fabric. same length as the top edge of one of your lining • In order for this zip to work there needs to be a gap at both ends of the pattern pieces zip on the finished bag. The gaps enable you to grab the zip in order to open and close it. Also, the gaps will accommodate the fitting of a . • 1 piece of exterior The width of the gaps is determined by how large your fingers are and fabric for the zip tab, also the width of your bag gusset (if using). For example, if your gusset 7 x 5cm (2¾ x 2in) pattern piece is 9cm (3½in) wide, divide that number by two and add on 3 • Ruler one lot of seam allowance. If your seam allowance is 1cm ( ⁄8in) the final 1 • Zipper sewing gap would be 5.5cm (2 ⁄8in). This is the MINIMUM gap that is needed at machine foot each end of the zip. If your bag does not have a gusset, you still need a gap of at least 4cm (1½in). The gap measurement is needed for Step 4. • Disappearing marker 3 • All seam allowances are 1cm ( ⁄8in) unless stated otherwise. • This style of zip is inserted into the bag lining BEFORE you construct the bag lining but AFTER sewing any pockets to the lining.

Easy as ABC … This zip is easy to insert. You just chop off a band from the bag lining top edge, insert a zip onto the lining top edge and then stitch the band back onto the bag lining. Simple!

Techniques Make the zip tab – take the zip tab fabric and 1 fold it in half by bringing the short edges RST. 3 Stitch along the long side edges with a 0.5cm ( ⁄16in) seam allowance. Iron the seams open. Fold the raw 3 open edge seam down 0.5cm ( ⁄16in) to the WS and iron. Turn the tab RSO. See Fig a.

Stitch the zip tab onto the zip – half close the 2 zip. Take the closed end of the zip and insert it into the zip tab. See Fig b1. Position the zip centrally inside the tab and push the zip end all the way inside the tab. Stitch in place all around the 1 tab with a 3mm ( ⁄8in) seam allowance. See Fig b2. a Set aside. Fig a One zip tab ready to be attached onto the end Decide on the depth of the zip to determine the of the zip. 3 height of your zip top band pieces – the zip top band is trimmed off from the top edge of the lining fabric. To determine the height of the zip top band, decide how far down you want your concealed zip to sit inside your bag. Then, take that measurement and add on your bag top edge seam allowance to get the total height of the zip top band. For medium to large bags a depth of 4cm (11/2in) from the finished top edge works well. In this example, 3 if your bag top edge seam allowance is 1cm ( ⁄8in), the total height of your zip top band would be 5cm (2in). Trim off the zip top band from the top edge of both your bag lining pieces. See Fig c. b1 b2 Pin the zip to the bag lining pieces – determine 4 the width of the gap for both ends of the zip (see Fig b1 The ‘closed end’ is the end of the zip from where you Need to know). Mark the gap measurement on the close the zip. Fig b2 The result. RS top edge of one your bag lining pieces (one each side). Fully open the zip, take one of the free RSO

Pins or clips? Do not use pins on fabrics that will be scarred by the pinholes, such as laminated cotton or suede leather. Instead, clip the fabrics together with sewing clips or mini bulldog clips. c Fic c Determine the height of the zip top band and then cut the zip top band from the top edge of the bag lining.

Techniques ends and fold it back and up at a 90-degree angle, 1cm (3⁄8in) to the WS. See Fig d1. Take the folded zip end (still RSO) and place it onto the RS bag lining onto the gap measurement marking. Matching the edges, continue pinning or clipping the zip to the top edge of the bag lining. See Fig d2. When you reach the other Take the strain … gap measurement marking, fold the zip downwards As you stitch over both zip folded so it is pointing towards the bottom edge of the bag ends, be sure to sew a few stitches lining. See Fig d3. Stitch the zip half to the bag lining in forward and reverse. This will help 1 top edge with a 3mm ( ⁄8in) seam allowance – ensure reinforce these high-stress areas. the ends of the zip remain folded as you stitch over them. Repeat with the other side of the zip and the bag lining piece.

d1 d2 d3

Fig d1 Fold the free end of the zip Fig d2 Neatly match the top edge Fig d3 When you reach the other back at an angle as shown and pin of the zip to the lining top edge. gap marking, pull the zip down or clip the fold in place. Pin or clip both together. away from the lining top edge, as you don’t want this end of the zip to be stitched through in the next step.

Stitch the zip top band onto the zip (and bag 5 lining) – take one of the zip top band pieces and place it WSO onto the RS top edge of the bag lining (thus creating a zip sandwich). See Fig e. Match the top edges and pin or clip together. Stitch the zip top band in place along the top edge with a 0.5cm (3⁄16in) seam allowance. Repeat with the other zip top band and bag lining piece. You can now complete the construction of your bag lining and the rest of your bag.

e

Fig e Create a zip sandwich by placing the zip top band onto the bag lining top edge.

Techniques Magnetic Snaps A magnetic snap closure will keep your bag or pocket flaps securely closed, and is so speedy and easy to apply.

You will need • Magnetic snap Need to know • 2 pieces of woven fusible • Even if your fabric is heavy, it’s essential to reinforce the magnetic snap interfacing, 2.5cm (1in) area of the fabric. This is because the fabric will be put under repeated square, for magnetic snap strain by the pulling of the magnet. reinforcement • If your bag is made from a few fabric and interfacing layers, or your fabrics • 2 pieces of sew-in are on the heavy side, cut a small, round magnet-sized hole though your fleece, 2.5cm (1in) square, interlining layers (if using). This exposes the magnet so it doesn’t lose its for magnetic snap strength through all of the layers. reinforcement • Seam ripper • Insert snaps BEFORE assembling your bag lining, bag exterior or bag flap.

Reinforce the magnetic snap fabric area – iron 1 a fusible interfacing square to the WS of the fabric where you have chosen to insert your magnetic snap. Place a square of fleece over the interfacing square. See Fig a.

Make incisions for the snap and apply – using 2 a seam ripper, make two tiny incisions though all fabric and reinforcement layers. See Fig b. Take a b one half of the magnetic snap and push the prongs through the incisions through the RS of the bag Fig a On the WS of the fabric fabric. Place a metal washer over the progs at the iron a piece of interfacing back of the fabric and push the prongs down firmly at the magnetic snap area away from each other. See Fig c. Repeat Steps 1–2 then hold in place a square for the other half of the magnetic snap. of fleece over the interfacing ready for the next step.

Fig b Be gentle with your seam ripper, you don’t want to make the holes too big. Fig c View of the magnetic snap half from the WS of the bag. Push the prongs down firmly. The layers for fleece and c interfacing will greatly reinforce the fabric.

Techniques Open-End Straps These straps are quick and easy to make and are strong. Make smaller and shorter versions of this type of strap for handle loops – used for attaching certain types of bag handles to your bags. You can add metal rings to handle loops if desired. Open-end straps/handle loops are sewn in between the bag lining and exterior.

Need to know You will need • To gauge the width of your strap fabric, first decide how wide you want your • Your choice of fabric finished strap to be. Take that measurement and multiply it by four. If you want in your chosen length your finished strap to be 4cm (1½in) wide, your strap fabric needs to be 16cm (plus two lots of (6¼in) wide. your chosen seam allowance). See Need • For comfort, add a little fusible fleece padding to the inside of your straps. to know for how to To gauge the width of the fleece take the finished width measurement of your gauge the width of strap and divide it by two. If your finished strap is 4cm (1½in) wide, your fleece your strap fabric needs to be 2cm (¾in) wide.

• The appropriate 3 • All seam allowances are 0.5cm ( ⁄16in) unless stated otherwise. interfacing or padding for your choice of fabric • Make up the bag lining, the exterior and the open-end straps/handle loops. • Fusible fleece (optional). Then stitch the handles in place to the RS of the exterior BEFORE you stitch the See Need to know for lining and the exterior together. how to gauge the width of your strap fleece

Prepare your bag strap fabric – ensure the strap fabric has 1 been ironed, then iron the fusible interfacing (if using) to the WS of the bag strap fabric. Then iron the fleece strip (if using) to the centre WS of the bag strap.

Fold and iron your strap – with your strap fabric WSU 2 fold the strap so that it resembles a book jacket cover as follows. With the strap fabric WSU fold the fabric in half lengthways and iron the centre crease. Open out and fold the long edges of the fabric to the centre crease and iron. Fold the whole strap in half lengthways again. See Fig a.

a Stitch the strap – take the folded strap, give it an iron and 3 pin along the long open edge. Topstitch along both long Fig a Fold the strip of fabric so that the folds edges of the strap. The strap is now complete and ready to look like a book jacket cover. sew onto your bag (see Need to know).

Techniques Closed-End Straps As with open-end straps, these are quick and easy to make and are strong. Make these straps when you want to make adjustable straps or you want to attach the ends of your bag straps onto the exterior side of your bag, or if you want to add metal rings or trigger hooks to the strap ends.

You will need Need to know • To gauge the width of your strap fabric, first decide how wide you want your • Your choice of fabric in finished strap to be. Take that measurement and multiply it by four. If you want your chosen length plus your finished strap to be 4cm (1½in) wide, your strap fabric needs to be 16cm two lots of your chosen (6¼in) wide. seam allowance. See Need to know for how to • For comfort, add a little fusible fleece padding to the inside of your straps. gauge the width of your To gauge the width of the fleece take the finished width measurement of your strap fabric strap and divide it by two. If your finished strap is 4cm (1½in) wide, your fleece • The appropriate needs to be 2cm (3¾in) wide.

interfacing or padding 3 • All seam allowances are 0.5cm ( ⁄16in) unless stated otherwise. for your choice of fabric • Fusible fleece (optional). • Closed-end straps are usually applied to bag at the VERY END of bag See Need to know for construction. If you want to add this style of strap to the front of your bag, finish how to gauge the width making up your bag and stitch the strap ends to the RS exterior of your bag of your strap fleece through all of the layers for strength.

Prepare your bag strap fabric – ensure the strap fabric has 1 been ironed then iron the fusible interfacing (if using) to the WS of the strap fabric. Then iron the fleece strip (if using) to the centre WS of the strap.

Fold and iron your strap – with your strap fabric WSU fold 3 2 both short edges in 1cm ( ∕8in) and iron the crease. Now fold the strap so that it resembles a book jacket cover as follows. With the strap fabric WSU fold the fabric in half lengthways and iron the centre crease. Open out and fold the long edges of the fabric to the centre crease and iron. Fold the whole strap in half lengthways again. See Fig a. a

Stitch the strap – take the folded strap, give it an iron and Fig a Fold in the short edges of the strap before 3 pin along the long open edge. Topstitch all around the folding the strip of fabric so that folds look like a strap. The strap is now complete and ready to sew onto your book jacket cover. bag (see Need to know). Techniques Adjustable Straps There is something really satisfying about making and using adjustable straps. Not only are they super practical they also look very swish.

You will need Need to know • A finished closed-end • To gauge the length of your adjustable strap decide how long strap (see previous technique). To gauge the you want the maximum length of your strap to be, then add length of the closed-end 10cm (4in). If you want the maximum length to be 1m (39in), strap see Need to know your closed-end strap needs to be 110cm (43in) long. 3 • 2 D-rings, as wide as • All seam allowances are 0.5cm ( ⁄16in) unless stated otherwise. your finished strap, each with its own • An adjustable strap is attached to your bag at the END of bag handle loop (made from making. In order to attach an adjustable strap to your bag you open-end straps, see will need to attach handle loops (see previous technique) with a previous technique) D-ring attached. • 1 strap slider that is as wide as your finished strap

Attach the handle loops – attach the handle 1 loops (with D-rings attached) to the side seam of your bag and complete the construction of stitch the strap your bag. end down

Stitch the metal slider to the strap – take 2 your strap WSU and thread one end of the strap through the centre bar of the slider. Pull RS the strap end so it is free from the slider, pin and stitch the fabric end down. See Fig a. slider

Fig a Pull the strap end through the slider so there is a enough clearance for you to stitch the end down.

Techniques Continue threading the strap – take the free end of the strap and 3 handle loop thread it through the D-ring of one of the handle loops. Thread the strap end back through the slider and then RS thread it through the other D-ring of free end WS the other handle loop. Stitch the end down ensuring the strap end is folded onto the WS of your strap. See Fig b1–b2. Your adjustable strap is now slider strapped in and good to go! b1

towards other handle loop

RS

Fig b1–b2 Thread the strap through one of the D-rings and then back through the slider. slider Finally fold the end of the strap under the b2 other D-ring and stitch the end down.

Below An adjustable strap in action on this very cute school-style satchel.

Techniques Bound Edges an edge has the effect of adding an attractive fabric border to the edge. This makes it a good way of adding a flash of colour and strengthening the edge. Try binding the top edges of pockets, the top edge of your bag or your bag flaps.

Need to know • To gauge the height of the binding tape, decide on the height of the finished 1 bound edge, multiply that by 4 and add 3mm ( ∕8in). If you want your finished 3 5 You will need bound edges to be 1cm ( ∕8in) tall, your binding will need to be 4.3cm (1 ∕8in). • To gauge the length of the binding, measure all around the edge of the item • 1 strip of folded and 1 and add 8cm (3 ∕8in) for folding in. pressed bias binding. 3 To gauge the height and • All seam allowances are 0.5cm ( ∕16in) unless stated otherwise. length of your binding see Need to know • If trimming pocket tops, make up your pocket and add the binding BEFORE stitching the pocket to your bag. Fold in both short edges of the binding at either end so as to conceal the raw edges. • If trimming bag flaps, make up your flap and apply the binding BEFORE stitching the flap to your bag.

Fold and press the binding – take the pre-folded 1 binding tape and press an off-centre crease across the length of the binding. See Fig a.

a Fig a Fold the binding lengthways so that the bottom folded edge doesn’t quite meet the top folded edge.

Techniques Stitch the open binding to the edge – with the 2 shorter folded side facing upwards unfold the binding. With binding opened and WSU, fold in the short edge at the start of the binding. Place the top edge of the opened binding WSU onto the RS top edge. Ensure that you are pinning the shorter folded side (from Step 1) to the item. Match the edges and pin all around. When you almost reach the end of the item, trim the excess binding so that the ends overlap. Pin in place. Stitch the binding 1 to the top edge of the item with a 3mm ( ∕8in) seam allowance. See Fig b1–b2.

Alternatively, stitch the open binding to the 3 pocket top edge – if you are binding a pocket b1 top, fold in the short edge first before your begin pinning. When you reach the end of the pocket fold in the short edge again as before. Stitch the binding 1 to the top edge of the item with a 3mm ( ∕8in) seam allowance.

Fold up the binding and topstitch to finish – 4 fold the binding back up over the top edge of the item. The folded off-centre crease of the binding (from Step 1) should butt up snugly with the top edge of the item. Pin the folded binding in position. You’ll notice that the binding is taller on the WS. Stitch the binding close to the bottom edge of the binding on the RS of the item. The stitches from the front will easily catch the bottom edge of the binding on the WS because the WS binding is taller. b2 See Fig c1–c2. Fig b1–b2 Fold in the edge at the start of the binding before pinning. The end of the binding is trimmed long enough to overlap the start of the binding thus concealing the raw edge.

c1 c2

Fig c1–c2 The result from the front and from the back. Because the binding is taller at the back, the stitches from the front will easily catch the bottom edge of the binding at the back.

Techniques Piped Edges A fine strip of coloured piping adds impact. Pipe the top, bottom and side edges and/or flaps of your bags. This tutorial shows how to make piping and how to insert a continuous line of piping around the top edge of a bag.

You will need Need to know • This top edge piping technique needs to be used in conjunction with • 1 strip of bias binding the pull through and turn out method of inserting bag linings (see to cover the cord. To following technique). gauge the height and length of your binding • To gauge the height of the piping covering, measure your piping see Need to know cord around the perimeter, and add two lots of your seam allowance, 1 • 1 length of piping plus 3mm ( ⁄8in). cord the same length • To gauge the length of the piping, measure around all around the edge as the bias binding of the item and add 5cm (2in) for folding in. • Piping sewing 3 machine foot • All seam allowances are 0.5cm ( ⁄16in) unless stated otherwise. • Seam ripper • When piping the top edge of your bag, apply the piping to the RS of • Disappearing marker the exterior bag AFTER you have finished constructing the exterior and BEFORE you sew the lining to the exterior.

Make up the piping – take the bias binding, 1 unfold both long edge folds and lightly iron the bias strip. Using the folds (that you have just lightly ironed) as a guide, trim off the long edges at the folds on both sides. Fold the binding in half by bringing the long edges together and iron the centre crease. Lay the piping cord down the centre crease so that it butts right up against the crease. Attach the piping foot to your sewing machine and position the cord underneath the groove in the foot. 1 Adjust the needle position 3mm ( ∕8in) to the right of the edge of the cord and stitch the piping, stopping 5cm (2in) from the end. See Fig a. a

Fig a The start of the piping is fully stitched in while the other end is left open by 5cm (2in) for folding in.

Techniques Begin to stitch the piping to the bag exterior – 2 lay the raw top edge of the piping onto the RS top edge of the bag exterior back (this way the piping join won’t be on display at the front of your bag). Match up the raw edges and pin. With the piping foot still attached to your machine begin stitching the piping 4cm (11/2in) in from the end. Ensure that your stitches lie slightly to the right of the piping stitches made in Step 1. Stitch all around the bag top edge 5cm (2in) short of the end of the piping. See Fig b. b

Fig b The open-ended part of the piping is on the left side. This gap between the piping ends will make it easier for you to create a join in the piping in the next step.

c1 c2 c3

Fig c1 Make a mark where the start of the piping (on the right) falls onto the end of the piping (on the left). Fig c2 Unpick a few stitches in the piping and trim the piping to the mark you made previously. Fold in the short edge of the open end of the piping (on the left) then lay the closed end of the piping (on the right) inside the open end. The piping cord ends should now be touching each other. Fig c3 The result will be a neat join on the piping.

Create a join in the piping – lay the open-ended Stitch the lining and the exterior together 3 part of the piping flat against the bag top edge, 4 (with piping sandwiched in between) – make and then lay the sealed part of the piping on top up the bag lining (leaving a gap in the bottom edge of the open end as shown. Make a mark where the of the lining for turning out). Insert the bag exterior sealed end of the piping falls onto the open end. RSO into the bag lining WSO. The RS of the two See Fig c1. Now trim the piping cord inside the bags should now be touching each other. Match open end of your piping to the mark that you just the raw top edges and side seams and pin. Firmly made. If necessary use a seam ripper to undo any run your fingernail along the piping edge (through stitches to allow you access to the piping cord. Fold the lining) so you can more clearly see the outline in the short edge of the open end of the piping and of the piping underneath. With the piping foot lay the closed end of the piping into the open end. still attached to your machine position the piping See Fig c2. Fold up the ends of the open-ended underneath the groove of the piping foot. Stitch piping (with the sealed end tucked inside), pin and as close as you can to the piping without actually stitch the piping ends starting and stopping at your stitching though it. Stitch all around the top edge original stitches (from Step 2). See Fig c3. of the bag. The piping is now attached and you can continue with the rest of the bag construction.

Techniques Inserting Linings: Pull Through and Turn Out Method This method is suited to soft structure bags and it is particularly useful when your bag handles are heavy. This is because the handles are attached to the bag in the ‘down’ position so they don’t need supporting (or to be kept out of the way of your stitching) during bag construction.

You will need Need to know 3 • All seam allowances are 1cm ( ⁄8in) unless stated • Your constructed otherwise. The seam allowance for the top edge of bag lining my bags is never less than this. • Your constructed bag exterior • This method takes a little time, but it is very • Bag handles (if using) forgiving when it comes to fitting your lining and • Pins, sewing clips or exterior together before pinning and stitching. mini bulldog clips • Pressing cloth

Assemble the bag lining – make up your bag 1 lining (including adding any lining pockets if using). As you stitch your lining together leave a large enough gap in the bottom or side edge for turning out.

Assemble the bag exterior – make up your bag 2 exterior. Turn your bag exterior RSO. Stitch the handles to the bag exterior – with 3 ready-made bag handles (if using) attached, stitch bag handle loops to the RS top edge of the bag exterior. The handle loops need to be pointing downwards. Or attach handmade bag straps (if a using) to the bag exterior top edge. The bag straps need to be pointing downwards. See Fig a. Fig a Stitch your bag straps WSO into the RS top edge of the bag exterior.

Techniques b c

Fig b Fully insert the exterior RSO into the lining WSO. Fig c Gently pull the exterior bag out through the gap in the lining.

Add the lining to the exterior – place the bag 4 exterior RSO into the bag lining WSO. The RS of the lining and the exterior should now be touching each other. Match top edges and side seams. See Fig b.

Pin the lining bag to the exterior bag – use Mystery movements … 5 pins or mini bulldog clips to hold the lining and Even if you are precise with your pattern the exterior together and stitch all round the top cutting and seam allowances, fabrics can edge. Reach into the gap in the lining and pull the stretch or move around – it’s mysterious, exterior bag out through the hole. See Fig c. but it happens! Using this method you can slightly stretch or squash the lining to fit Replace the lining back in to the exterior – at if it is a less-than-perfect match. 6 the same time turn the lining RSO and push the lining into the emerging bag exterior. Stitch the gap in the lining shut by pushing the raw edge into the hole and topstitching the open edge. See Fig d. Smooth out any bumps and iron the bag using a pressing cloth.

Finishing touches (optional) – topstitch the top 7 edge of the bag for extra strength and a neat and decorative finish.

d

Fig d Neatly push the raw edges of the gap in the lining into the hole and topstitch it shut.

Techniques The Compact Groceries Tote

Never be caught out without a reusable bag again. This super- useful groceries bag rolls up to a compact size that fits easily into your handbag, just perfect for those impromptu shopping trips. And it’s reversible too, meaning you can choose the side that best coordinates with your outfit that day – nifty!

Interior view Choose two pretty Trigger hook Even a simple tote Alternative colourway Give the fabrics for the exterior and lining, bag can be glammed up with shiny bag a different look using bright with contrasting handles. metal findings. fabrics with large-scale patterns.

Clever decorative topstitching Features you’ll love strengthe the bag handles (meaning you can do away with in acing) Tr k fo ping the bag to a puchchair (stroer) or your handbag

y-to-i e and a ractiv king envelope-style fla om Reversible, making it twice the fun

Finished size: 37 x 39 x 7cm (14½ x 153∕8 x 2¾in)

The Compact Groceries Tote

Need to know You will need • There is no pattern for the bag main body as all you need • 1 piece of quilt-weight are fabric rectangles. Pattern measurements are given in the fabric for exterior, 50cm Preparation panel. (½yd) x 112cm (44in) wide • I recommend quilt-weight fabric because this is thin enough to • 1 piece of quilt-weight roll up into a small size, but is strong enough to take the weight fabric for lining, 50cm of your groceries. (½yd) x 112cm (44in) wide 3 • 1 piece of contrast fabric • All seam allowances are 1cm ( ∕8in) unless stated otherwise. for bag handles, trigger • Pattern pieces for the bag handles are given in the pull-out loop and wraparound section and include the seam allowance. strap, 50cm (½yd) x 112cm (44in) wide • Sewing threads to match the fabrics • Set of metal popper snaps • Silver trigger hook, 2.5cm (1in) wide Preparation • Disappearing marker Cut the fabric pieces as follows: • Loop turner or safety pin The Compact Groceries Tote (Main Body) is a 44.5 x 42cm (171/2 x 161/2in) portrait rectangle • 2 x exterior fabric • 2 x lining fabric From the Compact Groceries Tote (Handles) pattern piece (see pull-out section) • 4 x contrast fabric Also cut: 3 • 1 piece of contrast fabric, 6 x 5cm (2 ⁄8 x 2in), for the trigger loop • 1 piece of contrast fabric, 24 x 10cm (91/2 x 4in), for the wraparound strap

The Compact Groceries Tote The trigger loop and wraparound strap

Stitch the trigger loop – fold the trigger loop 1 fabric in half by bringing the long edges RST, pin 3 and stitch along the long edges with a 0.5cm ( ⁄16in) seam allowance. Iron the seams open, turn the tube RSO and iron.

Attach the trigger hook to the trigger loop – a 2 topstitch the trigger loop along both long edges 1 3mm ( ⁄8in) from the edge. Thread the ring of the Fig a Stitch the trigger hook in place on the trigger loop. trigger hook through to the centre of the loop. Fold the loop in half over the ring and stitch across the loop to secure the trigger hook in place. See Fig a. Set aside.

Stitch the wraparound strap – take the 3 wraparound strap fabric WSO. Fold in half by bringing the long edges together, iron the centre crease and open out. Fold both the long edges to the crease you have just made and then fold in one 3 of the short edges by 1cm ( ⁄8in). See Fig b. Now fold up the whole strap along the centre crease and topstitch all around the folded edges of the strap 1 3mm ( ⁄8in) from the edge. Set aside. b

Fig b Fold in the long and short edges of the wraparound strap as shown.

The bag handles

Stitch the handles – bring two of the handle 4fabric pieces RST, pin and stitch along the side edges (including the curved edges) with a 0.5cm 3 ( ⁄16in) seam allowance. Clip the curves, iron the seams open and turn RSO. Smooth out and iron the handle again. See Fig c. Repeat with the other two handle fabric pieces.

c

Fig c Clipping the curves will make the curved area of the handle lie flat and therefore easier to turn RSO.

The Compact Groceries Tote Topstitch the handle – stitch five lines of stitches 5 along the length of the handle. Set the stitch length to 2.5–2.8. Topstitch the handle along both 1 side edges 3mm ( ∕8in) from the edge. Stitch another three lines of stitches 13mm (1/2in) apart from each other down the length of the handle. See Fig d. Repeat with the other handle. Set the handles aside.

Quick ‘n’ clever … d If you are using plain or simple patterned fabric for the handles, try Fig d The lines of topstitching on the handles are both topstitching with a contrasting thread decorative and strengthening. colour for an attractive design feature.

The bag exterior

Stitch the trigger loop to the bag exterior – take 6 the trigger loop (with trigger hook attached) and pin the raw short edges of the loop to the RS of one of the fabric exterior pieces. Position the loop on the 3 RS right-hand edge, 6cm (2 ⁄8in) down from the top edge. Match the raw edges, pin and stitch in place 3 with a 0.5cm ( ⁄16in) seam allowance. See Fig e. e Stitch the wraparound strap to the exterior 7 bag – select one of the exterior fabric Fig e When you stitch the trigger loop onto the exterior pieces to be the back of the bag. Take the fabric, ensure the trigger hook is facing into the fabric. wraparound strap and place the short raw edge of the strap onto the RS centre top edge of the selected fabric exterior piece. Pin in place and 3 stitch with a 0.5cm ( ⁄16in) seam allowance.

Stitch the exterior bag bottom edge – bring 8 the bag exterior pieces RST (ensuring the wraparound strap is at the top edge). Match all edges, pin and stitch the bottom edge. Iron the seam open.

Insert the envelope-style flat bottom – with 9 the bag WSO take the bottom of the bag and push the bottom seam up into the bag (in between f1 f2 the exterior fabric layers) to 5cm (2in) on both side edges and pin. See Fig f1–f2. Fig f1–f2 Push the bottom edge of the bag up in between the bag exterior fabric layers; push up until the raw edges of the bag bottom edge are 5cm (2in) up inside the bag. Check the other side is even and pin both side edges.

The Compact Groceries Tote Stitch the exterior bag sides – neatly match 10 the side edges of the exterior and pin and stitch both side edges together. Iron the seams open and turn the bag RSO.

The bag lining

Attach the handles to the bag lining – take 11 a bag handle with the raw short edges facing away. Position the handle ends on the RS centre top g edge of one of the lining pieces – place the handle ends 5cm (2in) apart from each other. Match the Fig g Space the handle ends 5cm (2in) apart from each other raw edges of the lining and handle ends, pin and on the RS centre top edge of the lining. stitch. See Fig g. Repeat with the other handle and lining piece.

Stitch the bag lining – sew the lining as in 12 Steps 8–10, except when stitching the bag bottom edge together you need to leave a gap of 10cm (4in) for turning the bag RSO at a later stage. Side to side … Leave the lining bag WSO. For a professional finish, always match the side seams of the lining and the exterior bag when pinning Assembling the bag and stitching them together.

Stitch the lining bag to the exterior bag 13 – insert the lining using the pull-through and turn out method (see Inserting Linings: Pull Through and Turn Out Method, Steps 4–6 in the Techniques section).

Topstitch the top edge of the bag – set 14 the stitch length to 2.5–2.8 and topstitch all 1 around the top edge of the bag, 3mm ( ∕8in) from the edge. Now topstitch around the bag again, this 3 time 1cm ( ∕8in) away from the line of stitches you have just made. See Fig h.

h

Fig h The two lines of topstitching not only look attractive, they also reinforce the top of the bag, the wraparound strap and the handles.

The Compact Groceries Tote Apply the first half of the popper snap to the 15 wraparound strap – place the bag RSU with the front facing up (and the wraparound strap at the back). Take the wraparound strap and fold it down over to the front of the bag. See Fig i1. Take the free end of the wraparound strap and mark an ‘X’ in 3 the centre 1cm ( ∕8in) up from the strap end. See Fig i2. Follow the popper kit instructions to insert the domed button (‘female’) half of the popper snap into the ‘X’ mark you have just made. See Fig i3.

i1 i2 i3

3 Fig i1 Pull the wraparound strap Fig i2 Mark an ‘X’ 1cm ( ∕8in) Fig i3 Insert the top (domed) half down from the back of the bag to up from the strap end. of the popper snap into the strap the front of the bag. end as shown.

Apply the second half of the popper snap 16 to the wraparound strap – where you position the second half of the popper snap is up to you – it depends on how tight you want to tie the wraparound strap around your rolled-up bag. So, pull the wraparound strap back into the ‘up’ position. Have a marker ready, roll up the bag and wrap the wraparound strap around the bag as tightly as you like. Mark an ‘X’ where the first popper half falls onto the wraparound strap. See Fig j. Follow the popper kit instructions to insert the dimple (‘male’) half of the popper snap into the j ‘X’ mark you have just made. All done! Now you’re ready to hit the shops … Fig j Wrap the strap as tightly as you want around the rolled- up bag and make a mark where the first popper snap half falls onto the strap.

The Compact Groceries Tote 1 2 3

6

This tote rolls up with the minimum of fuss and slips effortlessly into your handbag, meaning you always have a shopping bag handy for 4 5 those unscheduled ‘just-got-to- have-it’ retail moments.

Make it mine … Size – this bag is a breeze to size up or size down because the pattern is a simple rectangle shape.

Pockets – if you can’t get enough of pockets, try inserting a slip pocket or two to both sides of the bag.

Handles – make a fancy-looking tote bag using ready- made bag handles.

Embellishments – try adding pretty buttons to the base of the handmade straps. The Fashionista Baby Bag

This feature-rich bag will give mums a helping hand on family outings. A roomy bag with a soft, curvy shape, it has pockets-a-plenty – easy-access side pockets, a large back pocket for storing a matching changing mat, two secure front pockets, and a main interior compartment for separating toys, food, wipes and clothes … there’s even room for mum’s stuff too!

Front view The Velcro fastening Back view The large back Interior view The interior has on the front pockets allows fast pocket is where the cute matching compartments to separate out access to your everyday essentials. changing mat is stored. baby’s stuff from your own.

Features you’ll love

the designer price tag

Ten pockets and a large main

purpose a-day bag (work in the day

Finished size: 42 x 34 x 10cm (16½ x 133∕8 x 4in)

The Fashionista Baby Bag

You will need Preparation Cut the fabric and interfacing pieces as follows • 1 piece of laminated cotton (see pull-out section for pattern pieces): fabric for exterior, 125cm (1¼yd) x 137cm (54in) wide From the Fashionista Baby Bag (Main Body) pattern piece • 1 piece of laminated cotton • 2 x exterior fabric fabric for lining, 150cm • 2 x lining fabric (1½yd) x 137cm (54in) wide • 2 x sew-in interlining • 2 x woven fusible interfacing • Sewing threads to match the fabrics From the Fashionista Baby Bag (Back Pocket) pattern piece • 1 piece of woven fusible • 1 x exterior fabric interfacing, 200cm (2yd) • 1 x lining fabric x 90cm (35½in) wide • 1 x woven fusible interfacing • 1 piece of heavy sew-in From the Fashionista Baby Bag (Front Pocket) pattern piece interlining, 200cm (2yd) • 1 x exterior fabric x 90cm (35½in) wide • 1 x lining fabric • 1 x woven fusible interfacing • Elastic for pockets, 200cm 3 (2yd) x 5mm ( ⁄16in) wide From Fashionista Baby Bag (Front Pocket Flap) pattern piece • All-purpose nylon zip for • 2 x exterior fabric the main bag, 50cm (19¾in) • 2 x lining fabric • 2 x woven fusible interfacing • All-purpose nylon zip for the lining pocket, From the Fashionista Baby Bag (Side Pocket) pattern piece 7 30cm (11 ⁄8in) • 2 x exterior fabric • 2 metal O-rings for • 2 x lining fabric the handle loops, • 2 x woven fusible interfacing 4cm (1½in) wide From the Fashionista Baby Bag (Gusset) pattern piece • Metal slider, 4cm • 2 x exterior fabric (1½in) wide • 2 x lining fabric • 2 pieces of Velcro, 8cm • 2 x woven fusible interfacing 1 • 2 x sew-in interlining (3 ∕8in) x 2.5cm (1in) wide • Zipper sewing machine From Fashionista Baby Bag (Internal Pocket #1) pattern piece foot • 2 x lining fabric • Walking/non-stick/roller From Fashionista Baby Bag (Internal Pocket #2) pattern piece sewing machine foot • 2 x lining fabric • Disappearing marker From the Fashionista Baby Bag (Internal Divided Pocket) • Pressing cloth pattern piece • Finger presser (optional • 2 x lining fabric but recommended) Transfer all pattern notches and markings to the fabric • Sewing clips or mini with a disappearing marker bulldog clips Also cut: 5 • 1 piece of exterior fabric, 22 x 15cm (8 ⁄8 x 6in), for the handle loops • 1 strip of exterior fabric, 127 x 15cm (50 x 6in), for the adjustable strap • 1 piece of exterior fabric, 7 x 5cm (23 x 2in), for the zip tab • 2 pieces of lining fabric, 30.5 x 20cm (12 x 8in), for the lining flush zip pocket

The Fashionista Baby Bag Need to know • A will help you ease through the multiple layers in this design. • ‘Clip together’ means use sewing clips to hold fabric pieces together. Do not use pins as they will pierce the laminated cotton and ruin it. • Laminated cotton offers the ultimate in convenience and wipe-clean practicality for this project – it is also a real treat to sew with (see Working with Laminated Cotton in the Techniques section). • Other fabric possibilities are suitably interfaced quilt-weight fabric, cotton linen blends and medium-weight home dec fabric. Do not use heavyweight fabrics, as the layers will be too thick. • The patterns for the back pocket and both internal elasticated pockets are on the Main Body pattern piece. For the various pocket patterns simply fold the top edge of the pattern as instructed on the pattern.

3 • All seam allowances are 1cm ( ∕8in) unless stated otherwise. • Pattern pieces are given in the pull-out section and include the seam allowance.

The interfacing, strap The back and and handle loops internal pockets

Interface the exterior bag front/back, gusset, Make the elasticated back pocket – bring the 1 front/side/back pockets and front pocket flaps 5 exterior and lining back pocket fabric pieces – iron the woven fusible interfacing pattern pieces RST. Stitch at the top edge, finger press the seam to their respective WS exterior pattern pieces. open and flip the layers over to the RS. Make a casing for the elastic by topstitching the RS top Interface the interior bag front/back and 5 edge of the pocket 1.5cm ( ⁄8in) from the edge. Cut 2 gusset – lay the sew-in interlining pattern off a 42cm (161/2in) length of elastic and thread pieces onto their respective WS lining pattern 3 it through the casing. With 1cm ( ⁄8in) of elastic pieces and treat as one layer. sticking out of both casing ends, stitch the elastic 3 down 0.5cm ( ⁄16in) from the side edges. See Fig a. Make the bag strap – take the adjustable strap 3 fabric and make one closed-end strap (see Closed-End Straps in the Techniques section). Set aside.

Make the handle loops – take the handle loop 4 fabric and fold in half lengthways RST. Stitch the long raw edges together, finger press the seam open, turn the tube RSO and divide into two equal lengths. Thread an O-ring onto each of the handle loops. Set aside.

Fig a Hold the elastic in place with your fingers as you stitch it in place inside both ends of the casing. a

The Fashionista Baby Bag Make the #1 and #2 internal pockets – make #1 6 and #2 internal pockets in the same way as the elasticated back pocket (see Step 5). Both pockets are made entirely from lining fabric, so for both pockets, bring the pocket pieces RST and stitch in Snug fit … the same way. If you would like tighter, springier Make the elasticated side (x 2) and internal pockets, reduce the amount of elastic 7 divided pockets – bring the exterior and lining used in the casing. Do not reduce by side pocket fabric pieces RST. Stitch along the top and more 2 .5cm (1in) per pocket though, bottom edges, finger press the seams open and turn or the pocket will pull in on the sides RSO. Make the casing in the top edge of each pocket of the bag. and insert a 16cm (61/4in) length of elastic, in the same way as in Step 5. Repeat with the internal divided pocket pieces, using a 42cm (161/2in) length of elastic.

Trim the main bag zip with a tab – cut the zip to 845cm (173in). Take the zip tab fabric piece and trim one end of the long main bag zip with a tab (see Slimline Concealed Top Edge Zip, Steps 1–2, in the Techniques section).

The front pocket

Stitch the Velcro to the front pocket – take 9 one of the Velcro pieces and stitch the hook (bristly) part of the Velcro onto one of the Velcro pattern markings on the pocket RS exterior. Repeat for the other Velcro piece and other Velcro pattern marking. b1

Stitch the front pocket pieces together – Fig b1 Fold the pleats almost to the centre top edge 1 10 bring the pocket lining and exterior pieces of the pocket. Aim to leave a 3mm ( ∕8in) gap between the RST, match all edges, clip and stitch along the top pleats for the next step. edge. Finger press the seam open and flip the layers over so that both layers are RSO.

Stitch concertina pleats into the pocket – 11 with the pocket RSO, fold the left-hand side concertina . Bring pattern marking ‘point A’ up 1 and over to 2mm ( ⁄16in) from the centre top edge of the pocket and clip the fold in place. Repeat for the right-hand side pleat. See Fig b1. Now topstitch along the top edge of the pocket. Stitch with a 3 0.5cm ( ⁄16in) seam allowance – at the same time stitching over the pleats to secure them in place. See Fig b2. b2

Fig b2 Topstitching the top edge of the pocket finishes the pocket and it also stitches the concertina pleats in place.

The Fashionista Baby Bag Stitch the front pocket to the bag front – 12 place the front pocket RSO onto the RS exterior. Carefully match up the bottom and side edges of the pocket and the bag front. Also ensure that the top edge of the pocket is level (and not wonky). Clip the pieces together and stitch the front pocket to the bag front. Stitch down the centre of the pocket in between the pocket pleats (through all layers). See Fig c. Then stitch along the pocket bottom and side edges with a 0.5cm 3 ( ⁄16in) seam allowance. c

Fig c Stitch through the small gap between the pleats – so 1 that’s what the 3mm ( ⁄8in) was for!

The front pocket flaps

Stitch the Velcro to the front pocket flap 13 lining – take one of the Velcro loop (fuzzy) pieces and stitch it onto the Velcro pattern markings on one of the RS flap lining pieces. Repeat for the other Velcro piece and flap lining piece.

Stitch the flap pieces together – bring one of 14 the flap lining and exterior pieces RST. Match all edges and stitch together all around leaving a d 9cm (31/2in) gap in the top edge for turning out. Clip the corners and finger press the seams open. Turn Fig d Stitching two lines of stitches on the top edge RSO through the gap. Topstitch all around the flap of the flap will reinforce this high-stress area. 1 3mm ( ⁄8in) from the edge (stitching the gap shut as you sew). Repeat for the other pocket flap.

Stitch the pocket flaps to the bag front – 15 take one of the pocket flaps RSO (you can bring the Velcro pieces on the pocket and the flap together). Position the flap straight top edge onto one of the bag exterior pocket flap pattern markings. Stitch in place along the top edge of the flap only. Stitch directly through the topstitching on the flap. Then stitch another line below 0.5cm 3 ( ⁄16in) away from the topstitching. Repeat with the other flap. SeeFig d.

The Fashionista Baby Bag The exterior gusset

Stitch the gusset pieces together – bring the 16 two gusset exterior pieces RST. Match the edges, stitch together at the wider short edge and finger press the seam open.

Stitch the side pocket to the exterior gusset 17 – place one of the side pockets RSO on a side pocket pattern marking on the gusset RS. Match the pocket and gusset side edges and stitch along the 3 e pocket bottom and side edges with a 0.5cm ( ⁄16in) seam allowance. See Fig e. Repeat with the other Fig e Stitch the side pocket onto the gusset. The pocket side pocket. should gape open on the gusset.

The exterior back and exterior assembly

Stitch the back pocket to the bag back 18 exterior – place the back pocket RSO onto the RS exterior back. Carefully match up the bottom and side edges and ensure the pocket top edge is level (and not wonky). The elasticated pocket top edge will pull on the side edges of the pockets – don’t worry about that, they’re meant to. Clip the pieces together and stitch the back pocket to the bag back.

Stitch the exterior bag front and bag back f 19 to the gusset – bring the exterior gusset and the bag front exterior pieces RST. Match the bottom edge centre of both pieces then match all edges Fig f Cut the excess fabric off both the short edges of the gusset. I always make my too long, just in case! and notches. Clip the two pieces together and stitch around the bottom and sides on the gusset side. Repeat with the bag back, except this time stitch on the bag exterior side. Trim off the excess gusset fabric at both gusset top edges. See Fig f. Turn the bag RSO and iron using a pressing cloth.

Smooth operator … As you stitch around the curves, periodically stop to check that the gusset corner fabric is not bunching up under your needle and smooth it out if necessary.

The Fashionista Baby Bag The lining

Stitch internal pockets #1 and #2 to the 20 lining – place pocket #1 (the taller pocket) RSO onto one of the RS lining main body pieces. Clip and stitch together as in Step 18, except with 1 a 3mm ( ∕8in) seam allowance. Place pocket #2 RSO directly onto pocket #1. Carefully match the bottom and side edges of the two pockets, clip and stitch 3 together as before, except with a 0.5cm ( ∕16in) seam allowance. See Fig g. g

Insert the flush zip pocket into the lining – Fig g Pockets #1 and #2 are stitched to the main body lining 21 insert a flush zip pocket into the main body in such a way as to be layered on top of each other. lining piece (that has no pockets on it). Take the internal zip pocket zip and both zip pocket fabric pieces and insert a flush zip pocket into the centre 1 of the lining piece, 8cm (3 ∕8in) down from the top edge (see Flush Zip Pocket, Steps 2–8, in the Techniques section) – the zip hole (in Step 3 of 5 Flush Zip Pocket) needs to be 27cm (10 ∕8in) wide.

Stitch the internal divided pocket to the 22lining – place the pocket RSO onto the main body RS lining piece (below the flush zip pocket). Position the centre bottom edge of the pocket 8cm 1 (3 ∕8in) up from the centre bottom edge of the main body lining. Ensure the top edge of the pocket is level, match the side edges and clip together. Stitch the side edges of the pocket to the fabric in the same way as in Step 17. Then stitch the 1 bottom edge of the pocket with a 3mm ( ∕8in) seam h allowance. Distribute the elastic evenly inside the casing and (stitching through all layers) stitch a Fig h Stitch along the entire height of the pocket to create a central divider in the pocket. See Fig h. central divider. Be sure to sew securing stitches at both ends.

Still divided? Think about what you want to store in the internal divided pocket and stitch as many division lines onto it as you like. If you are making this bag for work/college, you might want to stitch divisions for pens.

The Fashionista Baby Bag Insert the slimline concealed top edge zip 23 into the lining – trim 4.5cm (13in) from the top edge of both main body lining pieces (reserve the trimmed pieces, you’ll need them for the zip top band). Take the trimmed zip from Step 8 and insert a slimline concealed top edge zip into the main body lining pieces (see Slimline Concealed Top Edge Zip, Steps 4–5, in the Techniques section – in 3 Step 4 the zip gap measurement is 6cm/2 ⁄8in).

Stitch the gusset pieces together – bring 24 the two gusset lining pieces RST. Match the edges, stitch together at the wider short edge and i finger press the seam open. Fig i Stitch the handle loop (with ring pointing down) to the Stitch the lining bag front and back to the centre top edge of the gusset short edge. 25 gusset – stitch the lining back and front to the gusset as in Step 19. With the zip stitched into the main body lining pieces it is a bit more awkward, but you should find that the zip does not prevent you from completing this step.

Stitch the handle loops to the gusset – take 26 one of the folded handle loops (with O-ring attached) and stitch it to the top of the short edge centre of the WS lining gusset. Stitch with a 0.5cm 3 ( ⁄16in) seam allowance. Repeat with the other handle loop. See Fig i. Assembling the bag

Stitch the lining bag to the exterior bag – 27 insert the lining RSO into the exterior bag. The WS of both bags should now be touching each other. Now fold the top edges of both bags down 3 1cm ( ⁄8in) to the WS then clip them both together before stitching. See Fig j1–j2.

j1 j2

Fig j1 As you can’t iron directly on laminated cotton, work Fig j2 When you reach the gussets, ensure that the your way all around folding down the top edges of both the handle loops are pulled up from between the exterior lining and the exterior bags. Work on small sections at a time, and the lining bags. fold the top edges of the lining and the exterior down, match the folded edges and clip together.

The Fashionista Baby Bag Topstitch the top of the bag – topstitch all 3 28 around the top of the bag with a 0.5cm ( ⁄16in) seam allowance. As you stitch around the gusset and handle loops, ensure that the handle loops are level (and not wonky). Hold the handle loops in place with your fingers as you stitch over them.

Attach the adjustable strap and slider to 29 the bag – attach the strap and metal slider to the bag (see Adjustable Straps, Steps 2–3, in the Techniques section). That’s a yummy looking baby bag you’ve made! Now, how do you fancy an equally cute matching changing mat and shoulder strap pad? If so, read on …

When your hands are full you need a bag that can keep all of your gear really organized and easy to get at. This baby-changing bag looks pretty, but is designed to be super-practical and ready for (almost) anything!

Make it mine … Fabric – make a bold, blocky bag using different coloured vibrant solids for the main body, gusset, numerous pockets and pocket flaps. Or go for a more nursery look with pastel solids instead.

Strap – if you are short on time, or happen to have one to hand, a ready-made strap can be attached with trigger hooks into the O-rings instead of making the adjustable strap.

Embellishments – the pocket flaps are crying out for embellishments, such as beads and buttons. Match the type you use carefully to your fabric for a coordinated look. You could also clip some dangly baby-friendly charms into the O- rings to give you something for baby to play with while you are changing him. ‘Accessorize It’ The Fashionista Changing Mat

This cute but practical travel baby-changing mat, will not only keep baby comfy, it also neatly stores baby-changing essentials. This changing mat coordinates with the Fashionista Baby Bag but it will still look the business in your existing baby bag, or it would make a lovely gift for a new mum or mum-to-be.

View 1 The mat and pockets fold View 2 Transparent pockets make View 3 The mat is a compact size, and unfold single-handedly to help it easy to see where everything is but there is still enough wriggle make changes quicker. to save fumbling around. room for a little one!

Features you’ll love material on both sides, but the side

The pockets are made from

5 Finished size: 61 x 32cm (24 x 12 ⁄8in)

The Fashionista Changing Mat

Need to know You will need • Please read the advice in the Fashionista Baby Bag project • 1 piece of laminated cotton before starting. fabric for exterior, 50cm (½yd) x 137cm (54in) wide • For the lining (or baby-changing) side I have used table protector. It is usually white foam that has been embossed with • 1 piece of table protector hexagon shapes (the other side has a felt-like texture). It is (foam type) for lining, 50cm (½yd) x 137cm (54in) wide perfect for this project as it is sturdy, wipe-clean, soft and not too thick to sew with. It should be quite easy to get hold of. • Clear vinyl for the zip and 3 slip pockets, 50cm (½yd) • All seam allowances are 1cm ( ∕8in) unless stated otherwise. x 137cm (54in) wide • Pattern pieces are given in the pull-out section and include the • 1 piece of woven fusible seam allowance. interfacing, 50cm (½yd) x 90cm (35½in) wide • Bias binding, 165.5cm (65in) x 2.5cm (1in) wide • Sewing threads to match the fabrics • 2 pieces of Velcro, 7cm (2¾in) x 2.5cm (1in) wide • All-purpose nylon zip, Preparation 40cm (15¾in) Cut the fabric and interfacing pieces as follows: • Zipper sewing machine From the Fashionista Changing Mat (Main Body) pattern foot piece (see pull-out section) • Walking/non-stick/roller • 1 x exterior fabric sewing machine foot • 1 x lining fabric (table protector) • Disappearing marker • 1 x woven fusible interfacing • Finger presser (optional Transfer all pattern notches and markings to the fabric but recommended) with a disappearing marker • Sewing clips or mini Also cut: 7 bulldog clips • 1 piece of clear vinyl, 31 x 25cm (121/4 x 9 ⁄8in), for the internal zip pouch 5 • 1 piece of clear vinyl, 55 x 38cm (21 ∕8 x 15in), for the nappy (diaper) slip pocket

The Fashionista Changing Mat The interfacing and Velcro

Interface the exterior pattern pieces – iron the 1 woven fusible interfacing pattern piece to the WS exterior main body pattern piece.

1 Make the Velcro tab – cut a 36cm (14 ⁄8in) length 2 from the bias binding. Fold the bias into thirds. See Fig a1. Take the loop (fuzzy) part of the Velcro and stitch it to the tab (through all layers) 1.5cm 5 ( ⁄8in) down from a short edge. Stitch along the short a1 edges of the Velcro only. Then topstitch all around 1 the folded bias with a 3mm ( ⁄8in) seam allowance Fig a1 As you fold the bias binding into thirds, match up the (at the same time stitching though the long edges long side edges. of the Velcro). See Fig a2–a3. Set aside.

Stitch the Velcro to the exterior – take the 3 hook (bristly) part of the Velcro and stitch it (hook side up) to the exterior RS at the Velcro pattern marking. Stitch all around the Velcro with 1 a 3mm ( ⁄8in) seam allowance.

The internal zip pouch

Attach the zip to one side of the pouch – fully open the zip. Working from the open (free) 4 a2 a3 end of the zip, place one of the short edges of the vinyl along one of the long RS edges of the zip, match the edges and clip together. See Fig b1. Fig a2 This tricksy stitching (seen from RS) means that the topstitching and the Velcro stitching look nice and Attach the zipper foot to your machine and stitch neat together (rather than a looking like a messy tangle 3 the zip to the vinyl short edge with a 0.5cm ( ⁄16in) of stitching). Fig a3 View from WS. seam allowance. Repeat with the other side of the zip and the other vinyl short edge. See Fig b2.

b1 b2

Fig b1 Open the zip and match the short edge of the vinyl to Fig b2 You should now have a vinyl tube with a zip running one of the long edges of the zip. through the centre.

The Fashionista Changing Mat Topstitch the zip on the RS of the pouch – fold 5 the vinyl back at the zip stitches you made in the previous step. Press the fold firmly with your fingers. Attach the non-stick foot to your machine 1 and topstitch along the RS folded edge 2mm ( ⁄16in) away from the edge. Repeat with the other side of the zip and then fully close the zip. See Fig c.

d1

Fig d1 Stitch along the same short edge of the pouch where the zip pull is located. Clip off the corners.

c

Fig c Use a non-stick foot and topstitch along the RS folded edge of the vinyl – this should be the result.

Stitch one of the short edges of the tube shut – 6 turn the vinyl tube WSO. Ensuring the zip is in a central position, flatten the tube and stitch one d2 of the short edges shut. See Fig d1. Open the zip, turn the pouch RSO and finger press the stitched Fig d2 Before you cut the zip, ensure that the zip pull is on short edge to flatten it. Topstitch along the stitched the part of the zip that you want to retain. If you accidentally cut the zip pull off the zip it’s nearly impossible to get it back 3 short edge of the pouch, 0.5cm ( ⁄16in) away from the on again. edge. Ensure the zip pull is half open on the pouch before trimming off the excess zip to match the open short edge of the pouch. See Fig d2. Set aside. The nappy (diaper) slip pocket

Trim the short edge of the slip pocket – cut a 7 38cm (15in) length of bias binding, fold it in half lengthways RST and iron the fold. Place the folded bias over one of the short edges of the vinyl and 1 stitch in place to bind the edge. Stitch 2mm ( ⁄16in) from the edge of the bias.

Fold the pocket and bind the pocket – 8 measuring from the bound short edge of the vinyl, measure and mark 25.5cm (10in) along the long edge of the vinyl. Fold the vinyl at the mark you have just made and match the edges. Cut a 30.5cm (12in) length of bias binding and fold in one

The Fashionista Changing Mat Assembling the mat

Stitch the Velcro tab to the curved top edge 10 – take the Velcro tab (loop/fuzzy side facing up) and place the short raw edge of the tab onto the centre curved top edge of the RS mat exterior. Match the edges, clip together and stitch with a 3 0.5cm ( ⁄16in) seam allowance.

Stitch the pockets to the exterior – take the e 11 internal zip pouch RSO and place the short raw edge of the pouch onto the long side edge of Fig e To bind the side edge of the pocket, take the folded the exterior RS at the internal zip pouch pocket short edge of the bias and line it up with the folded short pattern marking. Match the edges, clip together 3 edge of the pocket. and stitch with a 0.5cm ( ⁄16in) seam allowance. Repeat with the nappy (diaper) slip pocket. 3 of the short edges 1cm ( ⁄8in) to the WS. Fold the Stitch the exterior to the lining – bring the bias in half lengthways RST and iron the fold. Place lining and exterior pieces RST, match all the folded bias over one of the raw side edges of 12 edges and clip together. Stitch all around the mat the pocket. Stitch in place to bind the edge. See 1 leaving an 18cm (7in) gap in the bottom edge for Fig e. Stitch 2mm ( ⁄16in) from the edge of the bias. turning out. Repeat with the other side edge of the pocket.

Stitch the central divider in the slip pocket – 9 find and mark the centre line of the pocket. Fold the remaining length of bias in the same way as in Step 8 and stitch it down the centre off the pocket. Curvalicious … See Fig f. To make turning out easier and neater, clip off the corners and make small scissor nicks along the curved top edge seam, but do not cut too close to the stitching.

Turn the mat RSO and topstitch – turn the 13 mat RSO through the gap in the bottom. Take your time to push out all the corners, the sides and the curved top edge. Push the raw edges of the gap f into the hole and clip the gap shut. To help prevent the layers from moving during topstitching, use Fig f Create a central divider in the pocket. Using bias to sewing clips to clip all around the edges of the mat. divide the pocket reinforces the pocket centre and it looks Topstitch along the top and side edges of the mat nice too! 3 with a 1cm ( ⁄8in) seam allowance. When you get to 3 the bottom edge, topstitch with a 0.5cm ( ⁄16in) seam allowance, stitching the gap shut as you sew. All done! You now have a cute, comfy and organized place to change baby on the go!

The Fashionista Changing Mat ‘Accessorize It’ The Fashionista Shoulder Strap Pad

Here is a supremely useful accessory for your baby bag – a comfy shoulder strap pad. This one coordinates with the Fashionista Baby Bag but you can use this pad on any bags with straps that are 4–5cm (11–2in) wide. If you have a favourite bag that you’d like to make more comfortable to wear – give this a try!

View 1 When you’ve got a lot of View 2 Velcro fastenings mean View 3 The reverse is made from gear in your bag, a pad stops the you can remove the pad when not table protector, which is padded strap digging in to your shoulder. needed, or transfer it to other bags. for total carrying comfort.

Features you’ll love Made from practical on both sides

your shoulder Finished size: 20 x 7cm (8 x 2¾in)

The Fashionista Shoulder Strap Pad

Need to know You will need • Please read the advice in the Fashionista Baby Bag and • 1 piece of laminated cotton Fashionista Changing Mat projects before starting.

fabric for exterior, 23cm 3 • All seam allowances are 1cm ( ∕8in) unless stated otherwise. (9in) x 10cm (4in) wide • 1 piece of table protector • Pattern pieces are given in the pull-out section and include (foam type) for lining, 23cm the seam allowance. (9in) x 10cm (4in) wide 3 • Bias binding, 95cm (37 ∕8in) x 2.5cm (1in) wide • Sewing threads to match the fabrics • 2 pieces of Velcro, 3.5cm 3 (1 ∕8in) x 2.5cm (1in) wide • Zipper sewing machine Preparation foot Cut the fabric and interfacing pieces as follows: • Walking/non-stick/roller From the Fashionista Shoulder Strap Pad (Main sewing machine foot Body) pattern piece (see pull-out section) • Disappearing marker • 1 x exterior fabric • Sewing clips or mini • 1 x lining fabric (table protector) bulldog clips Transfer all pattern notches and markings to the fabric with a disappearing marker

Make the bottom tabs – cut two 11cm 3 The tabs 2 (4 ⁄8in) strips of binding from the bias strip. Fold one of the strips in half widthways. Take one of the hook (bristly) parts from one of the Make the top tabs – cut two 12.5cm (5in) Velcro pieces and stitch it to the folded tab strips of bias from the bias strip. Fold in 1 3 (through all layers) 0.5cm ( ⁄16in) down from half widthways. Take one of the loop (fuzzy) the folded short edge. Stitch in the same way parts from one of the Velcro pieces and stitch as in Step 1. it to the folded tab (through all layers) 1.5cm 5 ( ⁄8in) down from the folded short edge. Stitch Stitch the bottom tabs to the exterior along the short edges of the Velcro only. Then, 3 – take one of the bottom tabs (hook/bristly topstitch all around the folded bias with a side up) and place the short raw edge of the 1 3mm ( ⁄8in) seam allowance (at the same time tab onto the exterior RS at one of the bottom stitching though the long edges of the Velcro). tab pattern markings. Stitch in place with a Repeat for the other top tab. The result will 1 3mm ( ⁄8in) seam allowance. Repeat with the look very similar to Fig a2 in the Fashionista other bottom tab. See Fig a. Changing Mat. Set aside.

The Fashionista Shoulder Strap Pad in Step 4 on the RS of the strap pad fold the bias 3 back to 0.5cm/ ⁄16in) and when stitching the binding on the RS of the pad stitch in the ditch (directly in the seam between the bottom of the binding and the pad exterior fabric). The binding on the WS side should be tall enough to catch the stitches from the RS. See Fig b.

a

Fig a Stitch both the bottom tabs in position to the exterior as shown.

Stitch the top tabs to the exterior – stitch the 4 top tabs to the exterior piece in the same way as in Step 3. For neatness, aim to get the bottom and side edges of the top and bottom tabs to line up perfectly with each other. b

3 Fig b Aim for a bind width of 0.5cm ( ⁄16in) on the RS of the Assembling the strap pad pad. Stitch in the ditch (I’m pointing to the stitches here) to secure the binding on the WS of the pad. Bring the exterior to the lining and bind both 5 together – bring the exterior and lining pieces WST, match all edges and stitch together with a 1 3mm ( ⁄8in) seam allowance. Take the remaining For the stylish mum and baby on the go, a pretty and length of bias and bind the pad (see Bound Edges, practical baby bag complete with matching changing mat Steps 1, 2 and 4, in the Techniques section, except and comfy shoulder pad. All the style with all the substance! The 3-in-1 Convertible Backpack

This versatile bag does triple duty: you can carry it as a backpack, as a shoulder bag and (with its grab handle) as a handbag. The practical design not only looks stylish, it also goes the distance. It’s not the easiest bag you’ll ever make, but it will wow your friends with it’s shop-bought looks and triple-action practicality!

Back view 1 Large enough for a Back view 2 Trigger loops allow Bellows pocket A mixture of whole day’s worth of college/work/ you to change it from a backpack roomy pockets will keep all your sightseeing or as an overnight bag. to a shoulder bag in seconds. belongings organized.

Features you’ll love

your shoulder a rest and let your back take the weight

tickets in the convenient front pockets

Finished size: 33 x 38 x 17cm (13 x 15 x 6¾in)

The 3-in-1 Convertible Backpack

Need to know You will need • A walking foot will help you ease through the multiple layers in • 1 piece of fabric for exterior, this design. 150cm (1½yd) x 112cm (44in) wide • For this project I recommend buying bias binding (over making your • 1 piece of fabric for lining, own) because store-bought bias has just the right weight-to-strength 150cm (1½yd) x 112cm ratio. (44in) wide • Use quilt-weight fabric or cotton linen blends. If you are going to use • Bias binding for trim and home dec fabric use a lighter weight non-woven fusible interfacing. ties, 350cm (3¾yd) x 2.5cm (1in) wide • Sewing securing stitches at the start and end of your stitching (a few stitches in forward and reverse) will increase the life of your bag. • Sewing threads to match 3 the fabrics • All seam allowances are 1cm ( ∕8in) unless stated otherwise. • 1 piece of woven fusible • Pattern pieces are given in the pull-out section and include the interfacing, 150cm (1½yd) seam allowance. x 90cm (35½in) wide • 1 piece of sew-in compressed fleece, 150cm (1½yd) x 114cm 7 (44 ∕8in) wide • 1 piece of table protector (foam type) for bag bottom 7 reinforcement, 25cm (9 ∕8in) Preparation x 90cm (35½in) wide • 2 metal D-rings for Cut the fabric and interfacing pieces as follows (see the top handle loops, pull-out section for pattern pieces): 4cm (1½in) wide From the 3-in-1 Convertible Backpack (Main Body) • 2 metal D-rings for the pattern piece bottom handle loops, • 2 x exterior fabric 2.5cm (1in) wide • 2 x lining fabric • 3 metal D-rings for the flap • 2 x sew-in fleece ring loops, 2.5cm (1in) wide • 2 x woven fusible interfacing • 2 metal trigger hooks, From the 3-in-1 Convertible Backpack (Front Pocket) 4cm (1½in) wide pattern piece • Metal slider, 4cm • 1 x exterior fabric (1½in) wide • 1 x lining fabric • 1 x sew-in fleece • 4 magnetic snaps, • 1 x woven fusible interfacing 18mm (¾in) From the 3-in-1 Convertible Backpack (Main Flap) • 6 metal eyelets pattern piece (grommets), 14mm (½in) • 1 x exterior fabric • Nylon all-purpose zip, • 1 x lining fabric at least 28cm (11in) • 1 x sew-in fleece • Zipper and walking sewing • 1 x woven fusible interfacing machine feet From the 3-in-1 Convertible Backpack (Pocket Flap) • Disappearing marker pattern piece • Pressing cloth

The 3-in-1 Convertible Backpack • 2 x exterior fabric • 2 x lining fabric • 2 x sew-in fleece • 2 x woven fusible interfacing From the 3-in-1 Convertible Backpack (Bag Base) pattern piece • 1 x exterior fabric • 1 x lining fabric • 1 x sew-in fleece • 1 x woven fusible interfacing • 1 x table protector (for the bag base reinforcement) Transfer all pattern notches and markings to the fabric with a disappearing marker Also cut: • 1 piece of exterior fabric, 14 x 15cm (51/2 x 6in), for the top handle loops • 1 piece of woven fusible interfacing, 14 x 7.5cm (51/2 x 3in), for the top handle loops • 1 piece of exterior fabric, 14 x 10cm (51/2 x 4in), for the bottom handle loops • 1 piece of woven fusible interfacing, 14 x 5cm (51/2 x 2in), for the bottom handle loops • 2 pieces of exterior fabric, 84 x 15cm (33 x 6in), for the adjustable strap • 2 pieces of sew-in fleece, 82 x 7.6cm (321/4 x 3in), for the adjustable strap • 1 piece of exterior fabric, 24 x 15cm (91/2 x 6in), for the grab handle • 1 piece of sew-in fleece, 24 x 7.6cm (91/2 x 3in), for the grab handle 7 • 1 piece of exterior fabric, 30 x 12cm (11 ⁄8 x 43in), for the bag back loop and flap reinforcement 7 • 2 pieces of lining fabric, 30 x 23cm (11 ⁄8in x 9in), for the flush zip pocket • 8 pieces of woven fusible interfacing, 2.5cm (1in) square, for the magnetic snap reinforcement • 8 pieces of sew-in fleece, 2.5cm (1in) square, for the magnetic snap reinforcement

The 3-in-1 Convertible Backpack The interfacing and flap binding Potential pickle … Interface the exterior fabric pieces – iron the To prevent confusion it’s worth 1 woven fusible interfacing pattern pieces to their labelling each piece as you cut it respective WS exterior pattern pieces. – it is also a good idea to iron the interfacing pieces to their appropriate Fold and iron the flap bias binding – cut off fabric pieces as soon as they are cut. 2 143cm (561/4in) from the bias binding and set aside (this will be used to bind the pocket and main bag flaps). Fold the bias almost in half lengthways 1 so that the leading edge is 3mm ( ⁄8in) down from the other edge and iron the crease. See Fig a.

The handles and straps

Make the top and bottom handle loops – take 3 the top handle loop fabric and woven fusible interfacing and make one open-end strap (see Open-End Straps in the Techniques section). Divide the resulting strap into four equal lengths. Thread a D-ring onto each of the handle loops. Repeat for the (narrower) bottom handle loops. Set aside. a Make the grab handle – take the grab handle fabric and sew-in fleece and make one open- Fig a Fold the binding nearly in half so there is gap of 3mm 4 1 end strap (see Open-End Straps in the Techniques ( ⁄8in) between the two edges. section). To created a quilted effect on the handle (and to reinforce it) stitch another two lines of stitches spaced evenly apart down the entire length of the handle. Set aside.

Stitch the adjustable strap – bring the strap 5 fabric pieces RST and stitch together at one of the short edges. Iron the seam open and lay the fleece down the WS centre length of the fabric. The short edges of the fleece need to butt up to each other in the centre of the fabric strip. See Fig b. Make a closed-end strap (see Closed-End Straps in the Techniques section). Topstitch the strap all around the edge. Stitch another two lines on the b strap (as in Step 4) to create a quilted effect.

Add the metal hardware to the adjustable Fig b Neatly butt the short edges of the fleece in the centre of the fabric strip. 6 strap – this will be a detachable adjustable strap

The 3-in-1 Convertible Backpack with a trigger hook on both ends. Begin by threading one of the trigger hooks onto one end of the strap. Thread the same end through the central bar of the slider. Fold the strap end over the slider bar to the WS by 5cm (2in) and stitch the end down in a box formation. See Fig c1. With the strap WSO (and the slider and trigger hook facing left) take the free end of the strap and thread it back through the slider. See Fig c2. Finally thread the other trigger hook onto the free end of the strap, fold the end down to the WS by 5cm (2in) and stitch down as before. See Fig c3.

c1 c2

Fig c1 Thread the hook onto one strap end and then stitch Fig c2 Thread the free end of the strap back though the slider. the slider into the same end.

c3

Fig c3 The completed adjustable strap. The strap should have one trigger hook that is fixed to a strap end and the other trigger hook (and the slider) should be free moving.

The 3-in-1 Convertible Backpack The main flap and front pocket flaps

5 Make the flap ring loops – cut three 22cm (8 ⁄8in) pieces of 7 bias from the unfolded bias strip. Take one of the pieces and, 3 with the binding WSO, fold in both short edges 1cm ( ⁄8in). Turn the binding so that the short edges are facing top and bottom. Fold the binding as shown in Fig d1–d3. Fold the two remaining bias pieces in the same way.

d1 d2

Fig d1 Fold the binding nearly in half so the bottom folded Fig d2 With the metal D-ring threaded though to the centre edge meets the raw short edge of the bias at the top edge. of the bias, fold the whole thing in half. This will result a Pinch the folds with your fingers. strong double layer of bias to hold the ring, while minimizing bulk at the top edge.

Tab-tastic tip … d3 Using bias binding like this to make tabs is a great way to make perfectly Fig d3 Stitch the open edges of the flap ring loop shut. Stitch in a box formation – the long edges of the box coordinating tabs and it’s a whole lot should be 2cm (3in). faster than sewing tabs from fabric!.

The 3-in-1 Convertible Backpack Partly stitch the flap ring loops to the flap 8 exterior pieces – start with the main flap exterior. Take the main flap ring loop (with ring pointing down) and place it onto the RS centre bottom edge of the main flap exterior. Position the flap ring loop so that the top edge of the bias loop is 1 3cm (1 ⁄8in) up from the bottom edge of the flap. (To help with positioning see the finished result inFig e.) Hold the flap ring loop in place with your fingers and stitch the ring loop to the main flap exterior along the top edge of the flap ring loop only. Try to stitch through the top edge of the stitched box e of the flap ring loop. SeeFig e. Repeat with both pocket flap exterior pieces and flap ring loops. Fig e Stitch only the top edge of the flap ring loop to the exterior flap. We will stitch the bottom half down in Step 12. Insert the magnetic snap to the flap lining – 9 take the main flap lining fabric and iron a magnetic snap reinforcement fusible interfacing square to the WS, behind the pattern markings for the magnetic snap. Place one of the sew-in fleece reinforcement squares over the interfacing. Insert the non-magnetic part of the snap through the RS of the flap lining at the magnetic snap pattern marking (see Magnetic Snaps in the Techniques section). Repeat for the front pocket flaps.

Stitch the main flap lining and exterior 10 together – lay the main flap sew-in fleece piece onto the WS of the main flap lining, match all edges and treat as one layer. Bring the main flap lining and the main flap exterior pieces WST. Match all edges, pin and stitch together along the bottom 3 and side edges with a 0.5cm ( ⁄16in) seam allowance. Avoid stitching through the flap ring loop by keeping it folded out of the way.

Trim the main flap with bias binding – for 1 f 11 the main flap cut a 74cm (29 ⁄8in) length off the folded bias flap binding. Starting at the top Fig f One bias-bound flap. It doesn’t matter that the short side edge, bind the bottom and side edges of the edges of the binding are left raw – they won’t be visible on main flap (seeBound Edges, Steps 2 and 4, in the finished bag. the Techniques section). I have been deliberately generous with the binding length (better too much than too little) so you will most likely need to trim off excess bias. As you bind the flap, keep the flap ring loop folded up and out of the way. See Fig f.

The 3-in-1 Convertible Backpack Finish stitching the flap loop to the main 12 flap – attach the zipper foot to your machine. Fold the flap loop into the ‘down’ position. Stitch the main flap loop to the flap along the bottom edge of the rectangle you stitched in Step 8. See Fig g.

Lucky strike … g Try to stitch through the bottom edge of the stitched box of the flap Fig g You are aiming for the flap loop to be stitched onto the ring loop. If you are lucky your flap nice and straight. stitches will line up with the binding stitches on the flap.

Stitch the pocket flap lining to the pocket 13 flap exterior – lay one of the pocket flap sew- in fleece pieces onto the WS of one of the pocket flap lining pieces, match all edges and treat as one layer. Bring the pocket flap lining and the pocket flap exterior pieces RST. Match all edges, pin and stitch together along the top edge only. Iron the seam open and flip the layers over to turn the flap RSO. Repeat with the other pocket flap.

Trim the pocket flap with bias binding – for 14 each pocket flap cut a 34.5cm (131/2in) length of the folded bias binding. Staring at the top side h edge, bind the bottom and side edges of the pocket flap as in Step 11, except fold in both short edges of Fig h One bound pocket flap. Notice how the folded-in edges 3 of the bias are in line with the side top edges of the flap. the binding 1cm ( ⁄8in) before pinning the binding to the pocket flap (seeBound Edges, Step 3, in the Techniques section). Trim off any excess bias. Repeat with the other pocket flap. SeeFig h.

Finish stitching the flap loop to the pocket 15 flaps – finish stitching the flap loops to the pocket flaps in the same way as Step 12.

The 3-in-1 Convertible Backpack The front pocket

Stitch the pocket flaps to the bag front 16 exterior – take one of the pocket flaps WSU (with snap facing away). Position the straight edge of the flap onto one of the bag exterior pocket flap pattern markings. Pin and stitch in place along the 3 straight edge of the flap with a 0.5cm ( ⁄16in) seam allowance. Stitch another line above with a 1cm 3 ( ⁄8in) seam allowance. Repeat with the other pocket flap. i1 Insert the magnetic snaps to the pocket Fig i1 Fold the left-hand side concertina pleat as shown here. 17 exterior – iron a magnetic snap reinforcement fusible interfacing square to the WS of the pocket fabric, behind each of the magnetic snap pattern markings. Place one of the sew-in fleece reinforcement squares over the interfacing. Insert the magnetic part of the snap through the RS of the fabric at the magnetic snap pattern marking (see Magnetic Snaps in the Techniques section).

Stitch the pocket exterior to the pocket 18 lining – lay the front pocket lining fleece piece onto the WS of the front pocket lining fabric, match all edges and treat as one layer. Bring the pocket lining and the pocket exterior pieces RST, match all edges and pin and stitch along the top i2 edge. Iron the seam open and flip the layers over so that both layers are RSO. Topstitch the top edge Fig i2 Stitching along the concertina folds adds strength and 3 with a 1cm ( ⁄8in) seam allowance. definition.

Stitch concertina pleats into the pocket – 19 with the pocket RSO, fold the left-hand side concertina pleat. Bring pattern marking ‘point A’ up and over to the centre top edge of the pocket. See Fig i1. Iron both folds of the concertina pleat. Stitch along both folds of the concertina pleat; starting from the bottom edge, stitch along one of the 1 concertina folds with a 3mm ( ⁄8in) seam allowance. Ensure the needle stitches though all layers of the pocket. Stitch as far up towards the pocket top edge as you can. You may find the pocket is too bulky to stitch all the way to the very top (don’t worry if you don’t quite make it). Stitch the other concertina fold in the same way. Repeat with the right-hand side concertina pleats. See Fig i2. j

Fig j Peel apart the concertina pleats of the pocket so you can stitch along the vertical centre of the pocket more easily.

The 3-in-1 Convertible Backpack Stitch the pocket to the bag exterior front Attach the top handle loops to the BBLFR – 20 – select one of the bag exterior main body 25choose one side of the BBLFR to be the WS. pieces to be the bag front. Place the front pocket Take one of the folded top handle loops (with D-ring RSU onto the RS bag exterior front. Ensure the attached) and place it with the ring pointing away centre top and bottom edges of the pocket line up onto one of the WS long edges of the BBLFR. with the vertical centre of the bag exterior. Neatly Position the handle loop 4cm (11/2in) in from the side match the bottom and side edges of the pocket and edge. Hold the handle loop in place with your 3 the bag exterior fabric and pin. Stitch the vertical fingers and stitch to the BBLFR with a 0.5cm ( ⁄16in) centre of the pocket to the bag exterior (stitch seam allowance. See Fig l. Repeat with the other through all layers). See Fig j (previous page). Stitch handle loop. the bottom and side edges of the pocket to the bag 3 exterior with a 0.5cm ( ⁄16in) seam allowance.

Insert the main flap magnetic snap to the 21 bag front exterior – iron a magnetic snap reinforcement fusible interfacing square to the WS of the bag front exterior, behind the pattern markings for the magnetic snap. Place one of the sew-in fleece reinforcement squares over the interfacing. Insert the magnetic part of the snap through the RS bag exterior at the magnetic snap pattern marking (see Magnetic Snaps in the Techniques section).

The bag exterior back k

Stitch the bottom handle loop to the bag Fig k Stitch the bottom handle loop to the RS bag exterior 22 exterior bottom edge – take one of the folded at the handle loop pattern marking. bottom handle loops (with D-ring attached) and place it onto one of the bag exterior back handle loop pattern markings. The D-ring should point away from the bottom edge, and the raw edges of the handle loop and the bottom edge of the fabric should match. Hold the handle loop in place with your fingers and stitch to the bag exterior with a 3 0.5cm ( ⁄16in) seam allowance. See Fig k. Repeat with another bottom handle loop.

Stitch the main flap to the bag exterior – 23place the main flap RSU onto the centre RS of the bag back exterior. Position the straight edge of the flap onto the bag exterior main flap pattern marking. Pin and stitch in place along the straight 3 l edge of the flap with a 0.5cm ( ⁄16in) seam allowance.

Make the bag back loop and flap Fig l The raw bottom edge of the handle loop should be 5 24 reinforcement (BBLFR) – fold the BBLFR 1.5cm ( ⁄8in) down from the top edge of the BBLFR. fabric in half by bringing the long edges RST. Stitch all along the open edges leaving an 8.5cm 3 (3 ⁄8in) gap in the long edge for turning out. Clip the corners and iron the seams open. Turn RSO through the gap and iron.

The 3-in-1 Convertible Backpack Attach the grab handle to the BBLFR – 26 position the short edges of the grab handle onto the centre of the BBLFR (on the same long edge as the handle loops). Space the short edges of the grab handle 2.5cm (1in) apart. Hold the handle in place with your fingers and stitch to the BBLFR 3 with a 0.5cm ( ⁄16in) seam allowance. See Fig m.

Assembling the bag exterior

m Stitch the main body exterior pieces together – lay a main body fleece piece onto 27 Fig m The short edges of the grab handle should be 1.5cm each of the WS main body exterior pieces, match (5⁄8in) down from the top edge of the BBLFR. all edges and treat as one layer. Bring the exterior main body pieces RST. Match all the edges, pin and stitch together at both side edges.

Stitch the base reinforcement to the exterior 28 base – trim off 2cm (3in) all around the base reinforcement pattern piece (the table protector). Position, pin and stitch the reinforcement piece onto the centre WS of the exterior base. Stitch 3 all around 1cm ( ⁄8in) away from the edge of the protector. Stitch another line all around, this time 1 3cm (1 ⁄8in) away from the edge. If you like you 1 can draw the 3cm (1 ⁄8in) stitching line onto the protector as a guide.

Stitch the exterior base to the main body 29 – lay the base fleece piece onto the exterior n WS base pieces, match all edges and treat as one layer. Bring the exterior base and the exterior bag Fig n Pin (or clip) and stitch on the bag side – it’s easier than RST. Match all edges and notches, pin and stitch stitching on the base side. all around. If there is excess fabric at the curved corners of the base, make small pleats at the corners and stitch through them – they will form attractive gathers. Clip the curved corners. Turn RSO. See Fig n.

Taking sides ... Stitching on the bag side (rather than the base side) is easier because you have a clearer view of any bumps that may need adjusting or smoothing down.

The 3-in-1 Convertible Backpack Assembling the bag lining Assembling the bag

Insert the flush zip pocket into the lining – Stitch the lining bag to the exterior bag 30 trim the zip to 28cm (11in). Take the zip and 33 – insert the lining using the pull-through two zip pocket lining fabric pieces and insert a and turn out method (see Inserting Linings: Pull flush zip pocket into the centre of one of the lining Through and Turn Out Method, Steps 4–6 in the pieces, 10cm (4in) down from the top edge (see Techniques section), stitching all around the top 5 Flush Zip Pocket, Steps 2–8, in the Techniques edge with a 1.5cm ( ⁄8in) seam allowance. section). In Step 3, the zip hole needs to be 25cm 7 – topstitch three (9 ⁄8in) wide. Topstitch the top of the bag 34 lines of stitches around the top of the bag. Insert the magnetic snap to lining – iron This will look decorative and will reinforce the bag. 31 a magnetic snap reinforcement fusible With the bag flap open and tucked out of the way, interfacing square to the WS of the bag lining topstitch all around the RS top edge with a 3mm 1 pieces, behind the pattern markings for the ( ⁄8in) seam allowance. Then topstitch a second line 3 magnetic snap. Place one of the sew-in fleece with a 1cm ( ⁄8in) seam allowance. Finally, topstitch reinforcement squares over the interfacing. Insert a third line with a 5cm (2in) seam allowance. the magnetic part of the snap through the RS bag lining back and insert the non-magnetic part to the bag lining front at the pattern markings (see Magnetic Snaps in the Techniques section). Stitch the main body and base lining pieces Hold steady … 32 together – bring the lining main body pieces RST. Match all the edges, pin and stitch together at To prevent the lining riding up above both side edges leaving an 18cm (7in) gap in one of the exterior as you topstitch, pin all the side edges for turning out. Stitch the lining base around the top edge of the bag. to the lining main body in the same way as Step 29.

Apply eyelets (grommets) to the bag top 35 edge – follow the eyelet kit instructions to apply the eyelets to the RS top edge through the eyelet pattern markings.

Make the drawstring tie – take the 36 remaining strip of bias, fold in both short 3 edges 1cm ( ∕8in) to the WS, fold the strip in half lengthways RST and iron. Topstitch all around the 1 tie with a 3mm ( ∕8in) seam allowance. Thread the tie through the eyelets.

Attach the strap – thread the strap through 37 the D-rings of the top handle loops and clip the trigger hooks into the D-rings of the bottom handle loops to assemble the backpack straps. Alternatively, clip the trigger hooks into the D- rings of the top handle loops to create the shoulder strap, and adjust to the desired length using the slider. Woohoo, it’s finished, well done! Yep, that was an epic project, but look at your amazing new convertible bag!

The 3-in-1 Convertible Backpack Cart all of your gear around in comfort and style! This roomy bag stores loads, but it is also organized thanks to large front pockets and an internal zip pocket.

Make it mine … Pocket tabs and loops decorative, you could –omit as thethese tabs if andyou loopswant to are simplify purely the bag. Or, if you like you can swap the flap ring loops for decorative buttons or wooden toggles

Pocket closures – if you’re feeling adventurous, try swapping the magnetic snaps for twist locks.

Top bag closure – if you have a phobia of eyelets (grommets) don’t let that stop you making this bag – in place of eyelets, make a casing for the top of the bag and thread the ties through this instead.

Pockets – sticking with the ‘simplify it’ theme, you could omit the flush zip pocket from the lining too. Templates

To download full-size, printable templates for all of the beautiful bags in this eBook please go to: http://www.mycraftivity.com/V8105

Top Top Top

Fashionista Baby Bag (Gusset) 2 of 5 Fashionista Shoulder Strap Pad Place Top Edge 1 of 1 of Zip Pocket here

Fashionista Baby Changing Mat (Main Body) Place inner edge Place on fold 1 of 1 of Velcro Straps on dashed lines

Place Top Edge of Nappy Slip Pocket here

Place Bottom Edge of Side Pocket onto dashed line Compact Groceries Tote (Handle) 1 of 1 (Exterior) lcro Placement Ve

Place on fold

Top

Fold down for Back Pocket Pattern Top

Point A Top Fashionista Baby Bag (Front Pocket Flap) Fold down for lining pocket #1 5 of 5

Velcro Placement Velcro Placement (Lining) (Exterior)

Fold down for lining pocket #2

Fashionista Baby Bag Place on fold (Front Pocket) Top 3 of 5

Fashionista Baby Bag Place on fold (Side Pocket) Fashionista Baby Bag 4 of 5 (Main Body) 1 of 5 Place on fold

Templates Find everything you need – from craft supplies Loved this eBook? to inspiring books – here at: Be sure to get your own copy of Lisa Lam’s www.rucraft.co.uk , A Bag for All Reasons next amazing book, Join the online crafting which features these three beautiful bags, community! plus nine more incredible bag making rucraft @rucraft projects, easy-to-follow tips and techniques,

and three full-size, pull-out pattern sheets. Coming May 2012

Lisa Lam is a London College of Fashion graduate A Bag for who is founder of U-Handbag.com a Re� o� – an online store specializing in bag making supplies. Her first book,The Bag Making Bible is an international bestseller, selling over 60,000 copies worldwide to date (when she was told that she had to sit down).

Other titles you might like:

Sew your own bags, purses and accessories for every occasion Lisa Lam

Follow Lisa’s blog: www.u-handbag.typepad.com

Visit the shop: www.u-handbag.com

All details correct at time of publication. A DAVID & CHARLES BOOK © F&W Media International, Ltd 2012

David & Charles is an imprint of F&W Media International, Ltd Brunel House, Forde Close, Newton Abbot, TQ12 4PU, UK

F&W Media International, Ltd is a subsidiary of F+W Media, Inc., 10151 Carver Road, Cincinnati OH45242, USA

Text and designs copyright © Lisa Lam 2012 Layout and Photography © F&W Media International, Ltd 2012

This digital edition published in 2012 All material excerpted from A Bag for All Reasons (D&C, May 2012)

Layout of this digital edition may vary depending on reader hardware and display settings.

Lisa Lam has asserted the right to be identified as author of this work in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act, 1988.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, by photocopying, recording or otherwise, without prior permission in writing from the publisher.

The designs in this book are all copyright © Lisa Lam. The author consents to the sale of hand stitched designs only. Consent does not extend to factory manufacture for mass production and/or sales. Consent does not extend to supply to any third party for mass production and/or sales

The author and publisher have made every effort to ensure that all the instructions in the book are accurate and safe, and therefore cannot accept liability for any resulting injury, damage or loss to persons or property, however it may arise.

Names of manufacturers and product ranges are provided for the information of readers, with no intention to infringe copyright or trademarks.

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

ISBN-13: 978-1-4463-5725-5 ePub ISBN-10: 1-4463-5725-2 ePub

ISBN-13: 978-1-4463-5724-8 PDF ISBN-10: 1-4463-5724-4 PDF

This digital edition developed by LJ Interactive for: F&W Media International, Ltd Brunel House, Forde Close, Newton Abbot, TQ12 4PU, UK

Publisher: Alison Myer Acquisitions Editor: Katy Denny Editor: James Brooks Project Editor: Ame Verso Art Editor:Charly Bailey Photo Art Direction: Michelle Thompson Photo Styling: Jodi Kahn Photographers: Scott Jones and Jack Kirby Production Manager: Beverley Richardson

F+W Media publishes high quality books on a wide range of subjects. For more great book ideas visit: www.rucraft.co.uk