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Contemporary . Techniques , - Fusible Interfacings - Finishing Tips Contents B-l~5' , All About ... • Pattern Selection • Fabric Selec.tion -Contemporary . Techniques , - Fusible Interfacings - Finishing Tips Contents Pattern Selection 00000•000000000000000000 3 Fabric Selection.. 00000000000000000000•000•0000000000000•00•00000• 3 Notions 0 •••• 0 0 0 0 0 0 ••••• 0 0 0 0 0 0 000.0000.000 ••••• 000000•00000 •• 0 • 0 • 3 Inner Fabrics .... 0 0 0 •• 0 • 0 0 0 0 •• 0 •••••••••• 00000000000 •• 0 0 0 0 •• 0 0 0 0 • 3 Pressing Points . 0 0 •• 0 • 0 0 0 0 •• 0•00000000•00•00000000•000 ••• 0 0 0 0 •• 0 • 4 4 Prep~~~~~;~ :::: ~ :::: :-: :::::::::::::::::::::::: :.: :::::::::::::::: 4 ~ Pattern Fit 0 0 0 0 • 0 0 0 0 00000•000000000 0, 0 0 0 0 0 •• 00000•00•00000000 4 Marking. 000•00000000000•000•000•0 ••• 0 • 0- 00000000 •• 0 0 0 0 •• 0 0 0 0 4 Comparison of Custom and Contemporary Tailoring Techniques 0 0 0 0 • 0 • 0 4 Contemporary Tailoring Techniques 000•00•0•00•0•000•000•000•0•00 •• 4 ~ Darts .. 0 0 • 0 ••••• 00•000•0•000 0.' 0•0•000000•000000000•0000•0 •• 4 Lapped Method 0 0 • 0 0 0 0 0 0 •• 00•00000000000000•00000•00000 •• 4 Abutted Method 0 0 •• 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 •• 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 •• 0 0 0 0 0 • 0 ••• 0 • 0 0 4 Fusible Interfacing. 0 ••• 000000•0•00000 •• 0 0 • 0 0 0 • 0 •••••••• 0 0 4 Front Unit 0 •• 0 ••• 0 ••• 0000000•0•0 •••••• 0 0 0 0 •••••• 0 0 0 • 0 •• 0 •• 0 0 5 ~larking the Roll Line 0 0 • 0 ••••••• 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 ••••• 0 •• 0 • 0 • 0 0 0 0 5 Taping the Edges 0 0 0 • 0 •••••• 0 •••••• 0 0 • 0 • 0 •• 0 •• 0 ••• 0 •• 0 0 •• 5 ~lachine :\lethod.... 0 0 0 •••• 0 •• 0 • 0 0 0 ••••••••• 0 0 ••••••• 0 0 •• 5 Applying Intelfacing and Padding. 0 •••••••• 0 0 •••• 0 ••• 0 • 5 Taping the Roll Line .. 0 ••• 0•000•00000 •• 0 •• 00•000•0•0• 6 Steam Pressing . 0 •• 0 0 0 • 0 0 0 • ; 0 ••••••••• 0 0 ••••• 0 0 0 0 0 ••• 7 ~lethod Fusible . 0 ••• 0 0 0 0 •••• 0 • 0 ••• 0 •••••• 0 ••• 0 0 0 0 ••••••• 7 Applying Intelfacing 0 •• 0 ••• 0 0 0 0 0 ••••••• 0 ••• 0 0 0 0 0 •••••• 7 Pad Stitching Substitute ... 0 ••• 0 • 0 0 •• ' ••• 0 0 0 0 •••• 0 0 •• 0 • 7 Taping the Roll Line 0000000•00•0 ••••••• 0 •• 0 •••••••• 0 • 7 Steam Press. 0 •• 0 •••• 0•0•0•0•000•0•0 ••••• 0 • 0 • 0 0 0 • 0 ••• 7 Alternate Fusible ~lethod Using One-\Vay Stretch- Nonwoven Fusible Interfacing ... 0 ••• 0 •••••• 0 0 ••• 0 7 Buttonholes 0 • 0 ••• 0 ••• 0 ••••• 0 • 0 • 0 •• 0 ••••••• 0 •••••• 7 Seam Finishes 0 0 0 ••••• 0 •• 0 • 0 • 0 0 ••••••• 0 ••••••••• 0 ••••••• 0 7 Back Unit. 0 0 0 0 •• 00 ••••••••••••••••• 0 ••••••••••••• : 8 :\laking Back Reinforcement. 0' • 0 • 0 0 0 0 0 ••••••• 0•0000•0•00• •• 8 • One-Piece :\lethocl 0 • 0 • 0 •• 0 • 0 ••••• 0 0 ••• 0 • 0 •••••••• 0 8 Two-Piece :\'lethod 0 •••••••••• o. 8 Applying Back Reinforcement 0 ••••••••••••• 0 • 0 ••••••• 0 •• 0 0 0 9 Collars 000•0000000•000000•0•00 •••••••• 0 0 0 •••••• 0 0 0 0 0 0 • 0 0 0 9 Shaping - Machine Method 0 0 0 0 0 • 0 •••••• 0•0000000•0•0 '. 9 Shaping - Fusible Method .. 0 • 0 0 0 0 •• 0 0 0 0 • 0 •• 0 0 0 0 0 0 ••• 0 9 Attaching Collar. .. 0 0 ••• 0 0 •••• 0 • 0 • 0 •••• 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 ••• 0 • 0 0 0 • 0 0 10 Sleeve Treatments 0 0 •••••••• 0 0 0 • 0 •• 0 • 0 0 0 0 0 0 • 0 ••• 0 •••• o. 10 ~ Sleeve Heads 0 •••• 0 0 0 0 ••••• 0 0 0 • 0 0 J o 0 0 •• 0 • 0 0 •• 0 • 0 0 0 0 •••••• 10 Shoulder Pads ... 0 • 0 0 0 ••• 0 0 0 0 0 • 0 • 0 0 •• 0 0 • 0 •• 0•0•0000•00000 10 Hems.. 0 0 0 0 ••• 0 0 0 0 •• 0 0 •••••• 0 0 0 ••••• 0 • 0 0 0 ••••• 0•000000000000 11 Tailored Hems 0 ••••• 0 ••• 0•0•000•00000000•000000 o' 11 Sew-in Interfacing .. 0 ••• 0 ••••• 0000•0•00000•00000 •••• 0 0 11 Fusible Interfacing ... 0 •• 0•000•000•00000 •••••• 0 •• 0 0 • o. 12 ~lethods Quick 0 0 0 ••• 0 0 • 0 0 ••• 0000000000•0 •• 00•000000000 o. 12 Linings 0 ••• 0 •••••• 0 •••••••••••••••• 0 0 0 ••••••• 0 0 • 0 0 0 0 0 0 •••••• 12 Making a Pattern .. 0 • 0 •• 0 0 0 • 0 0 0 ••••••••••• 0 •••••••••• 0 • • •• 12 ~ Assembling the Lining 0 0 0 •• 0 0 • 0 ••••••••• 0 0 ••••••• 0 0 •••••• 1.3 Finishing Tips ..... 0 0 0 • 0 0 ••• 0 0 ••• 0 ••••• 0 0 0 0 • 0 •• 0 0 0 ••••••••• 0 o. 1.3 References 0 • 0 • 0 ••••••••••• 0 • 0 •••••••••• 0 0 0 0 0 0 • 0 •• 0 ••••••• 0 • 0 ••• 0 14 " Tailoring for Today Barbara Field* Almost too'busy to sew, much less weights, keep in mind that several more thoroughly, with instructions tailor? Don't worry anymore - to- thicknesses will be added when the for making them, under the section day's tailoring techniques forego all garment is constructed. Popular "Sleeve Treatments." the hand work that is so time- woolens include melton, crepe, consuming. New fusing and machine camel cloth, gabardine, tweed, dou- Inner Fabrics techniques make tailoring fast and ble knits and flannel. Appropriate easy, so you can create those classic pile fabrics include velvet, velveteen Buy inner fabrjcs at the same time and versatile fashions that you love. and cord~roy. These fabrics make that you buy your fashion fabric. Some fabrics and situations call for nice blazers or elegant contrast col- Check fabric compatibility by elI-ap- traditional tailoring techniques. Be- lars, cuffs and lapels. Linen, denim, ing'them together and feeling the cause many commercial sewing pique, seersucker, heavier cottons overall effect of weights and tex- manuals are available on that 'sub- and raw silk tailor nicely into suits or tures. Also, compare care rcquire- Il'lents. Be sure to buy an\' extra ject, this publication is dedicated to warm weather coats and jackets. s~lch contemporary techniques only, and Plaids, stripes or other designs that yardage you may need ({s fabric should serve as a supplement to your need to be matched require previ- for a lining that was not called f(>r on attem guidesheets. , ous experience with these types of the pattern or for making your own fabrics. Keep an eye on your budget shoulder pads (Figure 1). • Pattern Selection by coordinating colors and textures with the rest of your wardrobe. For a first-time tailoring project, choose a pattern with simple lines Notions and few design details. Since a jack- et, coat or suit is usually a long-term Notions and tools are important investment, consider a classic style supplies when tailoring. You will which can be worn several years. If need the basics, such as q{lality you need guidance selecting'the cor- thread, proper size needles, very rect pattern size, refer to Extension sharp scissors and plenty of pins. publication M P-1222 Pattern Selec- Twill tape, cotton or polyester in 1/4 - tion. inch (6 mm) width, will help prevent stretching and preserve the tailored Interfacing Fabric Selection shape for the life of the garment. ~iIIlIl~.-/ Select buttons suitable for the In choosing a fashion fabric, fashion. For example, leather but- ;...;;r",;.....<----+_I_nterlining splurge a little and select a favorite tons with a sporty look are great on color, a luxurious texture or a beauti- corduroy and velveteen. JeweJed ful print. Look for good quality fab- buttons are attractive on lush, solid ric, tightly constructed, either wo- colored velvets. Plain sew-through Lining veri or knit, in a medium to heavy or shank buttons blend to any design weight. \Vhen considering heavy and are the most versatile. Shoulder pads and sleeve head6 *Former Extensi()h project assistant-clothing, are notions' you may either buy or Figure 1. Four innerfabrics to shotL' order of The Texas A&M University System. make yourself. ThJey are explained application 3 InterE1cings for tailoring should be sleeve seams and shrinking fullness mark with tailor tacking. Ifconfident firm and closely WO\'en or well- in sleeve caps; a point presser, used of fit, Y4-inch (6mm) snips into fabric structured. Interf~l(.'ings are a\'ailable for pressing open hard-to-reach at notches are a quick marking meth- in several types and weights - the seams such as in lapels; and a pound- od. \\'hen using fusibles with water traditional hair canvas, which is dry ing block or clapper for making erasable products. mark after fusing clean only, and many \vashable and sharp creases or flattening faced as steam will usually er,lse the mark- imitation hair canvas interbcings, edges. For pressing techniques re- ings. both fusible and sew-'n types. Some garding fusibles, read manufactur- specially structured nonwovens are er~s directions carefully. To have suitable ()r interbcings. This will be success with fusibles, use the tim- indicated on the holt. ing, amount of heat and type of The amount of interbcing to buy moisture that each manufacturer re- Comparison of Custom and may vary according to use. For in- commends for its particular fusible Comtemporary Tailoring stance, if you want more structure in interfacing. Techniques the front of your jacket, more bbric is needed to make a chest piece. Read your pattern guidesheet Also, you may \\'<lI1t interbcing in carefully, referring to the chart on the back of your garment not pro- Preparations page 14 which compares tailoring techniques.
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