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Em4586 1980.Pdf (1.463Mb) J._ \ ~ ' ;} ~, \J 'J7 /v\~ s i1s1 - c_ ( J f ")_. - • TAILORfilG Cooperative Extension College of Agriculture Washington State University Pullman, Washington - - - TAILORING PROJECT REQUIREMENTS Dorothy A. Ettl, Extension Clothing Specialist To complete tailoring you should: Diane S. Triplett, Home Economics Assistant • Learn ten new skills for tailoring from the 4-H Clothing Construction Skills Checklist, C 0677. Plan, select, and make at least one wardrobe item that will include some of the new tailoring construction skills. All ten new skills do not WHAT YOU'LL DO IN THIS PROJECT have to be on the garment you make. You can learn the other skills on additional garments or Tailoring is a special type of clothing construc­ by practicing on fabric samples. tion. It uses construction techniques to build and mold permanent shape into a garment. It re­ quires attention to detail, patience, and accuracy PLANNING YOUR PROJECT to make a garment that will hold its shape through repeated wearings and cleanings. Several types of garments will work well for tailoring: The tailoring project is designed for 4-H members who have learned the basic skills in Units 1, 2, Menswear Women's Clothing and 3 and have completed at least two special in­ suits coats terest projects. jackets suits vests jackets or blazers In the tailoring project you will learn: pants skirts topcoats pants • The characteristics of wool. dresses • The characteristics of a tailored garment. - , Pattern selection and fitting techniques for When you choose a pattern, think about the tailoring. clothes you have now, the places you go, the things you do, and your personal body lines and , Selection of fabric and notions for different coloring. Think carefully about the way you want layers of a garment. to look and then select the lines and silhouette • Construction skills used for three different that will help you achieve this look. types of tailoring: Custom, Dressmaker, and Contemporary. Study or review the information in Unit 3 and • New hand and machine sewing skills. Challenging Patterns about design, line, and color. , Pressing skills and equipment used in tailoring. , Care and storage requirements for tailored The pattern you select can make construction of garments. the tailored garment relatively simple or very dif­ ficult. A pattern with few seams and simple Keep a record of your plans and use the 4-H details will be easier than a more intricate design. Clothing Construction Record, C 0675. Share what you learn with others by demonstrating, ex­ Select a wool or wool blend to use as the fashion hibiting, and modeling in the fashion revue. fabric for your tailoring project. The fabric may be either woven or knit. { If you want to work with Use this project booklet along with other a different fabric, enroll in the challenging fabrics reference material as you select a pattern, fabric, project.) Wool is recommended for its ability to and construction methods or techniques for your hold a molded shape as well as for its durability, - tailoring project. resiliency, and warmth. A firm fabric is easier to work with, but a tweed or other loosely woven made from good quality recycled wool can be fabric may be used successfully when under­ more desirable than one of poor quality virgin lined. wool. Some recycled wools are blended with new wools to improve the quality of the fabric. Select a fabric color that will highlight your per­ sonal coloring and coordinate with your ward­ Wool yarns may be classified as worsted or robe. If the fabric has a design, be sure that it will woolens, depending on fiber quality and the be appropriate for the pattern you have selected. manufacturing process used: Remember that extra yardage and more time is required for matching plaids, checks, stripes, • Worsteds are made from long fibers. Worsted and fabrics with diagonal effects. yarns are smooth, hard, even, and compact. Good quality worsteds are usually lightweight. Select the best quality fabric you can afford. They tailor well, resist wrinkling, and take a sharp crease. Worsteds usually wear well, * ACTION IDEA. Look for tailored garments in although gabardine and serge tend to become fashion magazines and in stores. Learn to shiny. recognize the standards of a well-tailored . Woolens are made from shorter fibers. They garment. Compare the cost of a home-sewn have a softer, fuzzier look and are usually tailored garment with a similar garment in woven more loosely than worsteds. Woolen ready-to-wear. fabrics do no~ hold as sharp a crease as worsteds, but since they are softer, they resist wrinkling and do not get shiny. WOOL FABRIC FACTS Wool yarns can be made into a variety of fabrics: Wool is a natural animal fiber-the fleece of sheep or lambs. Goat or camel hair may also be • Boucle has a surface that is knotted or looped. classified as wool under the Wool Products Labeling Act. Most wool is clipped from live • Challis is a soft, lightweight, plain, or twill­ weave fabric. It has a smooth look and is - sheep; poorer quality (pulled wool) is removed from the hides of slaughtered sheep. The wool is available in solid colors or prints. sorted, graded, and then washed or cleaned to • Crepe has a lightly texturized or pebbled sur­ remove dirt and natural oils. face. Crepe fabric holds its shape and is available in many weights. There are two classifications for wool fibers by . Flannel has a slightly napped surface. law: . Fleece has a lush, fuzzy, napped surface. It is . Virgin wool or new wool has never been pro­ warm, but lightweight. cessed in any way before being manufactured . Gabardine has a hard finish and a clear sur­ into the finished product. face. It is a twill-weave with diagonal lines that • Recycled wool is wool that has been re­ are fine and more pronounced than in serge. claimed from scraps of knitted, woven, or The lines cannot be seen on the wrong side of felted fabric or from wool products. These pro­ the fabric. ducts may or may not have been used by the • Serge has a twill-weave rib on both the right consumer. and wrong sides of the fabric. It is available in many weights. Because quality can vary within the classifica­ • Tweed is rough-textured, sturdy fabric which tions identified on the label, it is important to look is characterized by a mixed-color effect. It is at the quality of the product. Good quality virgin available in many weights and may be a plain, wools are strong and resilient. However, a fabric twill, or herringbone weave. - . Felt is made by treating layers of fibers with moisture, heat, and pressure. It has a tightly matted, smooth surface . - . Doubleknit wool can be recognized by the thinly ribbed surface and flat finish. The front and reverse sides are similar. The maximum 0 amount of stretch is crosswise rather than on PURE WOOL WOOL BLEND the bias . Singleknit wool such as jersey has a soft sur­ duct is at least 60% wool. To use these marks, face. There is a fine ribbing on the right side manufacturers' products must pass the Wool and a different appearance on the back. Bureau's performance tests, including fiber con­ tent, colorfastness, and inspection for quality of Advantages of Wool in Clothing workmanship. The marks appear on the product label or hangtag . • Wool is warm and comfortable. Because of its natural absorbency, it absorbs moisture readily without making the wearer feel cold or damp. TAILORING STANDARDS • Wool is cool in lightweight fabrics. It breathes and lets heat out and air in to keep the body dry Garments that are well tailored have certain and cool. things in common, regardless of the type of tailoring used. Knowing the standards of a well­ • Wool fibers are resilient and elastic so the tailored garment will help you in setting goals fabrics resist wrinkling. and in garment construction. They also will help • Wool is supple and will yield with body you when you buy a tailored garment. movements. The fabrics tailor well because they can be molded to shape with heat and The standards are: - moisture. • Wool dyes easily, permitting a wide range of • Fits correctly . colors. • Is well pressed . • Edges of collar, lapel, front, etc. are thin and Limitations of Wool curl slightly toward the body. • Wool fabrics are apt to be attacked by moths • Properly interfaced to mold to the body and unless treated to resist them. hold its shape. • Wool requires care in laundering and dryclean­ • Collar lies against the garment with no seam or ing to prevent felting and relaxation shrinkage. undercollar showing. Covers back neck seam. Chlorine bleaches may yellow or even dissolve • Detail work is well done. Corners are square. wool. Collar points are the same length and shape. • Wool garments tend to stretch during wear Zipper insertion is smooth, even, and in­ and if handled excessively when wet. They conspicuous. Fabric design is matched at the should be allowed to "rest" between wearings. seams. • Buttonholes are well made, evenly spaced, and Wool Marks the right length for the buttons. The Wool Bureau controls use of the • Handsewing is even and inconspicuous. "Woolmark" and "Woolblend Mark" symbols. • Lining fits smoothly into the garment and does The Wool mark identifies products made of 100% not interfere with the set and drape of the gar­ - wool. The Wool blend Mark certifies that the pro- ment. TAILORING METHODS General Standards There are several tailoring methods. The method When you select interfacing, consider: you choose will depend upon: Purpose. What overall look or shape is - • Your sewing ability. desired? A heavier interfacing creates a crisp look; a lighter weight gives a softer look.
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