Apparel and Textile Production I

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FAMILY AND CONSUMER SCIENCES EDUCATION | Career and Technical Education

FA31

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Worksheets in this workbook are labeled as (click for direct links): 1. Developed CTE Blueprint 2. Developed CTE Blueprint Primer 3. Important Policies 4. Acknowledgements 5. Assessment and Equipment

Each Blueprint contains the: 1. Official course number and title 2. Program area 3. Course description 4. Hours of instruction 5. Recommended maximum enrollment 6. Prerequisite courses 7. Career cluster alignment with completers noted where applicable 8. Essential standard and indicator numbers 9. Essential standard and indicator statements 10. Relative course weights for each essential standard and indicator statements 11. RBT Designation for each essential standard and indicator 12. Column for Local Use 13. Integrated Skill Areas 14. Contact information 15. Most current version date

Career Cluster Two-letter Abbreviations: 1. Agriculture, Food, & Natural Resources AG 2. Architecture & Construction AC 3. Arts, A/V Technology, & Communications AR 4. Business Management & Administration BM 5. Education & Training ED 6. Finance FN 7. Government & Public Administration GV 8. Health Science HL 9. Hospitality & Tourism HT 10. Human Services HU 11. Information Technology IT 12. Law, Public Safety, Corrections & Security LW 13. Manufacturing MN 14. Marketing MK 15. Science, Technology, Engineering, & Mathematics ST 16. Transportation, Distribution & Logistics TD

North Carolina Career and Technical Education Developed CTE Course Blueprint Family and Consumer Sciences Education FA31 Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015 Course Description:In this course students are introduced to the Apparel and Textile industry in the areas of design, textiles Hours of Instruction: 135-180 and apparel engineering. Emphasis is placed on students applying these design and engineering skills to create and produce apparel products. Art, literacy, mathematics, and science are reinforced. Work-based learning strategies Recommended Maximum Enrollment: 20 appropriate for this course include service learning and job shadowing. Apprenticeship and Cooperative education are not available for this course. Family, Career and Community Leaders of America (FCCLA) competitive events, community Prerequisite: None service, and leadership activities provide the opportunity to apply essential standards and workplace readiness skills through authentic experiences. Foundational: AR, MN Career Enhancement: Cluster(s): Completer: Aligned Credential or Certification: Work-Based Workbased Learning: Service Learning and Job Learning Shadowing

ES # Unit Titles/Essential Standards and Objective Statements Course RBT Integrated Skill Local Use Obj # (The Learner will be able to:) Weight Designation Areas Total Course Weight 100% 1.00 Understand the apparel industry and design 27% B2 A/E/CD/CS/SC/SS 1.01 Remember the apparel industry 12% A1 A/E/SS 1.02 Understand apparel design 15% B2 A/CD/CS/SC

2.00 Understand textiles 20% B2 A/CD/CS/SC 2.01 Understand fibers, fabrics, and finishes 15% B2 A/CD/CS/SC 2.02 Understand care of textile products 5% B2 A/CD/CS/CS

3.00 Understand apparel engineering 53% B2 A/E/CD/CS/SC 3.01 Understand body measurements, sizing and patterns 18% B2 A/CD/CS 3.02 Understand tools and equipment 10% B2 A/CD/CS/SC 3.03 Understand engineering and construction 25% B2 A/E/CD/CS/SC

Contact [email protected] for more information

Career and Technical Student Organizations (CTSO) are an integral part of this curriculum. CTSOs are strategies used to teach course content, develop leadership, citizenship, responsibility, and proficiencies related to workplace needs. Career and Technical Education conducts all activities and procedures without regard to race, color, creed, national origin, gender, or disability. The responsibility to adhere to safety standards and best professional practices is the duty of the practitioners, teachers, students, and/or others who apply the contents of this document.

This blueprint has been reviewed by business and industry representatives for technical content and appropriateness for the industry. Developed CTE Course Blueprint

A course blueprint lays out the framework of the curriculum for a given course.

The blueprint includes units of instrucon, essenal standards in each unit, and the specific objecves for each essenal standard. The blueprint illustrates the relave weight of the units, essenal standards, and objecves within the course. Each essenal standard and objecve reflects the intended level of learning through two dimensions that reflect the Revised Bloom’s Taxonomy (RBT). The Knowledge Dimension is represented with leers A-D, and the Cognive Process Dimension is represented by numbers 1-6.

The blueprint should be used by teachers to plan the course of work for the year, prepare daily lesson plans, and construct instruconally valid interim assessments. Statewide assessments are aligned directly with the course blueprint. This blueprint and other aligned curriculum products and assessments are developed using the Revised Bloom’s Taxonomy. Reference: Anderson, Lorin W. (Ed.), Krathwohl, David R. (Ed.), et al., A Taxonomy for Learning, Teaching, and Assessing: A Revision of Bloom’s Taxonomy of Educaonal Objecves, Addison Wesley Longman, Inc., New York, 2001.

Column Heading Column information ES# ES=Essential standard number (two digits); Obj.=Objective number (unique course identifier plus essential standard number and two-digit objective number). Obj.#

Statements of unit titles, essential standards per unit, and specific objectives per essential standard. Each essential standard statement or specific objective begins with an action verb and makes a Essential Standard and complete sentence when combined with the stem “The learner will be able to. . .” (The stem appears once in Column 2.) Outcome behavior in each essential standard/objective statement is Objective Statements denoted by the verb plus its object.

Local Use Space for use by Local Education Agencies.

Course Weight Shows the relative importance of each objective, essential standard, and unit. Course weight is used to help determine the percentage of total class time that is spent on each objective.

Classification of outcome behavior in essential standards and objective statements in Dimensions according to the Revised Bloom’s Taxonomy. (Cognitive Process Dimension: 1 Remember, RBT Designation 2 Understand, 3 Apply, 4 Analyze, 5 Evaluate, 6 Create) (Knowledge Dimension: A Factual Knowledge, B Conceptual Knowledge, C Procedural Knowledge).

Shows links to other academic areas. Integrated skills codes: A=Arts; E=English Language Arts; CD=Career Development; CS=Information/Computer Skills; H=Healthful Living; M=Math; SC=Science; Integrated Skill Area SS=Social Studies. Disclaimer Statement Contributions of many individuals and from many written resources have collectively made this curriculum guide possible. The major authors, however, do not claim or guarantee that its contents will eliminate acts of malpractice or negligence. The responsibility to adhere to safety standards and best professional practices is the duty of the practitioners, teachers, students, and/or others who apply the contents of this document.

This guide was developed with federal CARL D. PERKINS Career and Technical Education ACT of 2006 funds.

All materials in this guide may be reproduced for educational purposes only.

Internet Policy Career and Technical Education curricula and 21st Century Skills require students to use many technologies, including the Internet. Each school should have an Internet use policy, and all students should sign the school Internet policy prior to beginning any class that uses such technologies. Students who violate the school’s Internet policy must be held accountable for his/her actions and face appropriate consequences deemed necessary by the school in accordance with the school’s policies. Teachers must use extreme caution when assigning Internet activities to students. Teachers must preview sites, which can change daily, prior to ANY activity. If the teacher determines a website used in an activity is inappropriate, or students are not mature enough to behave properly and according to the school’s Internet policy, the teacher should make alternate arrangements for completing the activity.

Course Guide and Assessment Item Policy Classroom test item banks and course guides developed under the leadership of the North Carolina Department of Public Instruction are owned by the NCDPI. Classroom test item banks and course guides are provided for the use of North Carolina public school teachers and agencies. It is a violation of this policy for anyone to post or use any classroom test item banks, individual test items, or course guides on the Internet unless they are in an area that is password protected. The password must be unique so that it cannot be easily guessed by unauthorized users. Teachers who post classroom test item banks, individual test items, or course guides for classroom use can share the password only with students within their classrooms and with other North Carolina school systems’ teachers in Career and Technical Education. Acknowledgements and Special Thanks Special thanks to the following educators who developed this blueprint: Beth Bell Ph.D Heritage High School Kimberly Clark South Caldwell High School Lisa Harrington Lee County High School Dawn Harrison Apex High School Malena Robinson Mountain Heritage High School Kim Smith Harnett Central High School Traci Steele West Rowan High School Susan P. Way East Carteret High School

Anna Blancett Editor

Special thanks to the following business and industry representatives who assisted in the development of this blueprint: April Bush Fashion Summit Gigi Kormous Edwards Designer Dr. Diane Ellis Fashion Merchandising and Design, Meredith College Dr. Mike Fralix President and CEO, TC2 Dr. Cynthia Istook College of Textiles, NC State University Mike Restaino Vice President of Sourcing, Design and Operations, Belk Holly Woodruff Merchandise Manager, VF Corporation

Project Director Sherry P. Williams Consultant, Family and Consumer Sciences Education

State Staff for Family and Consumer Sciences Education Reno Palombit Consultant, Family and Consumer Sciences Education Sherry P. Williams Consultant, Family and Consumer Sciences Education Janet Johnson State Advisor, Family, Career and Community Leaders of America Trey Michael, PMP Special Assistant for Curriculum Development, CTE Carol Short Secton Chief for Curriculum, CTE JoAnne Honeycutt Director, CTE Post-Assessment Specifications

The post-assessment will be a 100-item multiple choice test administered through the NC Instructional Management System.

The course is designed using the Revised Bloom’s Taxonomy (RBT). Subsequently, the post-assessment is aligned directly to the objective and specific content unpacked for each objective. It is directly aligned to the RBT level of the objective and the reflective manner in which the content is organized. For example, if content is unpacked as facts, then test items will assess factual information. If a procedure is unpacked, then test items will assess steps in the procedure.

Equipment List and DPI Facilities Guidelines The CTE Equipment List document may be found here: http://www.ctpnc.org/cte/equipment/ The DPI facilities guidelines may be found here: http://www.schoolclearinghouse.org 1.01

COURSE FA31 – Apparel and Textile Production I ESSENTIAL Understand the apparel industry and 1.00 B2 27% STANDARD design. OBJECTIVE 1.01 A1 12% Remember the apparel industry. 1. What were the influences that affected the fashion industry during the Industrial Revolution? 2. What inventions were significant for the apparel industry during the ESSENTIAL 19th century? QUESTIONS 3. Which fashion designers were most influential during the 19th and 20th centuries? 4. How has the internet and fast fashion affected the fashion industry?

UNPACKED CONTENT

A. Industrial Revolution 1. Flying shuttle 2. Spinning Jenny 3. Cotton Gin 4. Spinning Mule 5. Elias Howe B. 19th Century 1. Sewing Machine 2. Paper Pattern 3. Ready-to-wear 4. Ebenezer Butterick 5. Charles Worth 6. Levi Strauss C. 20th C entury 1. Standardized sizes 2. WWI & WWII 3. Christian Dior 4. Coco Chanel D. 21st Century 1. Internet 2. Fast Fashion

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015 1

INSTRUCTIONAL ACTIVITIES 1.00 Understand the fashion industry and design 1.01 Remember the apparel industry A. Industrial Revolution Portfolio Option: Throughout this curriculum we offer a portfolio option. Look for this ╬ icon throughout the curriculum. This is an opportunity for your students to collect their work throughout the class. This website offers a digital component. Key Terms Flying Shuttle Cotton Gin Spinning Mule Spinning Jenny Elias Howe 1.  Introductory activity for Apparel I: What is the presence of the Apparel/Textile Industry in North Carolina? The teacher will ask: What comes to mind when you hear the expression Apparel/Textile Industry? Do we have Apparel/Textile Industries in our town, county, state? The students will watch this video about the history of the Apparel/Textile Industry in North Carolina.  Facilitate a discussion with students on the role that Fashion has played in history.  Students will select an influential person, machine, or equipment from the Industrial Revolution to the 21st century. Distribute the Fashion History Project Rubric handout  Students will research their topic and write a 2 to 4 research paper.  Teacher is to create a blank time line on a large roll of paper.  Students are to search for pictures and interesting facts on their topics, along with the time period.  Using www.vocaroo.com Students will record their interesting information and create a QR code to add to the time line.  In the appropriate location, students will add their pictures and QR code to the time line.

Instructional Resources Roll of Paper with time line Computer Fashion History Project Rubric Handout Still Standing YouTube Video www.vovaroo.com

Common Core Connection  Teacher partner with the US History or World History class and have them divide the timeline. Have the history class do research and put their information and QR on the top of the timeline and Apparel Textile and Design class put their pictures and QR codes on the bottom half.  Invite the school to view the timeline.

Literacy Strategy: A Research Paper is a tool that helps students think about the content, reflect on their knowledge of the content, and share their knowledge with their teacher. share their thoughts with the teacher.

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015 2

A. Industrial Revolution 2.  Distribute Industrial Revolution PowerPoint Notes Handout  Show Industrial Revolution PowerPoint  Students will complete the Industrial Revolution Notes Handout

Instructional Resources Industrial Revolution PowerPoint Industrial Revolution Notes Handout

3.  Students will view the Flocabulary: http://youtu.be/eutUTVpdWDc Ask the students to write down as many inventions or changes they notice in the rap video.  When the video is over have students share the inventions they saw. Were there any that are important to the fashion industry? What were they? Why do you think they were important?  Break the students up into four groups. Assign each group an invention: flying shuttle, spinning jenny, cotton gin, and spinning mule. Pass out the Debate Handout found in the instruction resources. In the general topic section, have them put: Which Industrial Revolution invention changed fashion the most?  Students are to do research on their invention and come up with arguments to support their invention’s influence. List arguments on the debate handout.  Have each group present their arguments. Students should take notes. After the arguments, give the groups time to write down explanations as to why their invention was more influential than other groups. Students can discuss rebuttals as a class.  Have the class vote on which invention they feel was the most influential to fashion during the Industrial Revolution.

Instructional Resources: Flocabulary video Handout Computer

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015 3

1.01 Remember the apparel industry. B. 19th Century Key Terms Sewing Machine Ebenezer Butterick Paper Pattern Charles Worth Ready-to-wear Levi Strauss 1.  Facilitate a discussion about the historical influences of Levi Strauss. Discuss the changes that jeans may have taken during his lifetime. What changes have they made from 1902 to now?  Show the Levi Strauss Prezi: http://prezi.com/tdduyz3djmbd/levi-strauss/?kw=view-tdduyz3djmbd&rc=ref- 14257747 Students will complete the Levi Strauss Notes Handout found in the Instruction Resources folder.  Assign students to groups and ask each group to design a new style of jeans that they think would be popular today. Discuss their design and any interesting features.

Instructional Resources: Levi Strauss Prezi Levi Strauss Notes Handout 2.  Distribute 19th Century Powerpoint Notes Handout  Show 19th Century Powerpoint  Have students fill in the notes Handout

Instructional Resources 19th Century PowerPoint 19th Century Notes Handout

Literacy Strategy: A Reading or Listening Handout is a tool that prompts students to look for specific details in a reading passage or demonstration. The Guide helps students recognize information that is of primary importance. Because students must complete the information required by the handout, it helps to keep students alert and attentive and increases their reading comprehension and listening skills.

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015 4

1.01 Remember the apparel industry. C. 20th Century Key Terms Standardized Sizes Christian Dior World War I Coco Chanel World War II 1.  Have students research on World War I, World War II, and War rationing.  Students are to create a PowerPoint or Prezi explaining how World War I, World War II, and rationing affected the fashion industry. Include pictures and videos in the presentation.

Instructional Resources Computers

2.  Have students watch either the Coco Chanel movie or this short biography http://www.biography.com/people/coco-chanel-9244165/videos  Distribute the Coco Chanel Rubric handout (print out landscape)  Have students write a 1-2 page research paper on the life of Coco Chanel.

Instructional Resources Coco Chanel Movie or website Coco Chanel Rubric Handout 3.  Distribute 20th Century PowerPoint Notes Handout  Show 20th Century PowerPoint  Have students fill in the notes Handout

Instructional Resources 20th Century PowerPoint 20th Century Notes Handout

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015 5

1.01 Remember the apparel industry. D. 21st Century Key Terms Internet Fast Fashion 1.  Distribute 21st Century Powerpoint Notes Handout  Show 21st Century Powerpoint  Have students fill in the notes Handout

Instructional Resources 21st Century PowerPoint 21st Century Notes Handout 2. Portfolio Option ╬  Facilitate discussion on the Fashion Cycle.  Distribute the Fashion from the Past Rubric Handout.  Divide students into groups of two or three. Students are to create a polyvore (www.polyvore.com) collection set. Have them create looks that are popular today that reflect styles from the past. Students are to identify the style and how it is linked to the past.  Have students write a paragraph describing each look, how it is linked to the past, and which century the design is inspired from.  Groups are to present the fashion form the past creations.

Note to teacher: Students can be assigned decades or have them do 5 or 6 different decades

Instructional Resources Computer Fashion from the Past Rubric Handout

3.  Divide students into 6 groups.  Assign groups an influential person from 1.01. (Ebenezer Butterick, Charles Worth, Levi Strauss, Coco Chanel, Christian Dior, and Patent wars between Elias Howe/Issac Singer.  Distribute Blast from the Past Rubric handout  Students will create a video introducing themselves. They will tell about who they are and why they are so important to fashion. The patent war group can create a video debate.

Instructional Resources Blast from the Past Rubric Handout Computer Recording equipment

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015 6

D. 21st Century 4. Industry Connection  Have students watch the video on PBS about Fashion and Politics; http://video.pbs.org/video/2241082339/  After the video, have students create an account or log onto Polyvore; http://www.polyvore.com/ and design an appropriate outfit for a presidential candidate, male or female.  Have the students present their outfit set to the class.

╬ Portfolio option: Have students print off their outfit set from Polyvore and write a description of the outfit and why it would be appropriate for a presidential candidate.

Instructional Resources Computer

5. Review  Distribute the Crossword Puzzle handout.  Have students complete the Crossword Puzzle handout review.  There is a key provided titled, Crossword Puzzle Key

Instructional Resources Crossword Puzzle Handout Crossword Puzzle Key

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015 7

Apparel and Textile Production I

1.01 -19th Century Notes Activity

Sewing Machine- Before the invention of the sewing machine people had to create garments by hand.

In 1846, the first American patent was issued to______for "a process that used thread from two different sources."

Elias Howe's machine had a needle with an eye at the point. The needle was pushed through the cloth and created a loop on the other side; a shuttle on a track then slipped the second thread through the loop, creating what is called the______.

Sewing machines did not go into mass production until the ______, when ______built the first commercially successful machine.

Singer built the first sewing machine where the needle moved ______rather than the side-to-side and the needle was powered by a foot treadle.

Previous machines were all hand-cranked. However, Isaac Singer's machine used the same lockstitch that Howe had patented.

Elias Howe sued Isaac Singer for ______and won in 1854

______- changed the face of home sewing forever by creating the first graded (different sizes) ______. The company he founded continues to lead the way in make-it-yourself fashions 150 years later.

In the beginning, he only offered ______patterns.

In ______they began offering women’s' dress patterns.

______- A pattern in sewing and fashion design is the paper or cardboard template from which the parts of a garment are ______onto fabric before cutting out and assembling

Before Paper Patterns, people who sewed would lay out their fabrics and then ______the fabric cuts they wanted to make.

Ellen Butterick, wife of Ebenezer, remarked to her husband how handy it would be if she had some sort of pattern to guide her in making her fabric cuts, a pattern that was the correct size for her son. Thus paper patterns were born.

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

1.01-19th Century Notes Activity

______- a fashion designer who is widely considered ______

He is credited as the first designer to put ______onto the clothing he manufactured.

Worth's designs are notable for his use of lavish fabrics and trimmings, his incorporation of elements of historic dress, and his attention to fit

______; is the term for factory-made clothing, sold in finished condition, and in standardized sizes.

Also called ______.

______were the first ready-to-wear garments to be mass-produced during the War of 1812.

High-quality ready-to-wear garments for men became generally available soon thereafter.

______-the inventor of the quintessential American garment, the blue jean.

In 1872 ______, a Reno Nevada tailor writes to Levi Strauss, telling him about the process he invented to rivet the pocket corners on men’s pants to make them stronger. He suggests the two men take out a patent on the process together and Levi agrees.

In ______Levi Strauss & Jacob Davis are granted a patent on the process of riveting pants by the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office on May 20. It is patent number 139,121 and this is the invention of the blue jean.

Originally called ______.

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

1.01-19th Century Notes Activity

Answer Key

Sewing Machine- Before the invention of the sewing machine people had to create garments by hand.

In 1846, the first American patent was issued to Elias Howe for "a process that used thread from two different sources."

Sewing machines did not go into mass production until the 1850's, when Isaac Singer built the first commercially successful machine.

Singer built the first sewing machine where the needle moved up and down rather than the side-to-side and the needle was powered by a foot treadle.

Previous machines were all hand-cranked. However, Isaac Singer's machine used the same lockstitch that Howe had patented.

Elias Howe sued Isaac Singer for patent infringement and won in 1854

Ebenezer Butterick- changed the face of home sewing forever by creating the first graded (different sizes) sewing pattern. The company he founded continues to lead the way in make-it-yourself fashions 150 years later.

In the beginning, he only offered men's and boys' patterns.

In 1866 they began offering women’s' dress patterns.

Paper Pattern - A pattern in sewing and fashion design is the paper or cardboard template from which the parts of a garment are traced onto fabric before cutting out and assembling.

Before Paper Patterns, people who sewed would lay out their fabrics and then hand draw the fabric cuts they wanted to make.

Thus paper patterns were born.

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

1.01-19th Century Notes Activity

Answer Key

Charles Worth- a fashion designer who is widely considered Father of Haute Couture

He is credited as the first designer to put labels onto the clothing he manufactured.

Worth's designs are notable for his use of lavish fabrics and trimmings, his incorporation of elements of historic dress, and his attention to fit

Ready-to-Wear; is the term for factory-made clothing, sold in finished condition, and in standardized sizes.

Also called prêt-à-porter.

Military uniforms were the first ready-to-wear garments to be mass-produced during the War of 1812.

High-quality ready-to-wear garments for men became generally available soon thereafter.

Levi Strauss-the inventor of the quintessential American garment, the blue jean.

In 1872 Jacob Davis, a Reno Nevada tailor writes to Levi Strauss, telling him about the process he invented to rivet the pocket corners on men’s pants to make them stronger. He suggests the two men take out a patent on the process together and Levi agrees.

In 1873 Levi Strauss & Jacob Davis are granted a patent on the process of riveting pants by the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office on May 20. It is patent number 139,121 and this is the invention of the blue jean.

Originally called waist overalls.

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015 19th Century

Apparel & Textile Production I - Summer 2014 1

Key Terms

Sewing Machine- Before the invention of the sewing machine people had to create garments by hand.

● In 1846, the first American patent was issued to Elias Howe for "a process that used thread from two different sources."

● Elias Howe's machine had a needle with an eye at the point. The needle was pushed through the cloth and created a loop on the other side; a shuttle on a track then slipped the second thread through the loop, creating what is called the lockstitch.

Apparel & Textile Production I - Summer 2 2014

Key Terms Continued

• Sewing machines did not go into mass production until the 1850's, when Isaac Singer built the first commercially successful machine.

• Singer built the first sewing machine where the needle moved up and down rather than the side‐to‐side and the needle was powered by a foot treadle.

• Previous machines were all hand‐cranked. However, Isaac Singer's machine used the same lockstitch that Howe had patented.

• Elias Howe sued Isaac Singer for patent infringement and won in 1854.

Apparel & Textile Production I - Summer 3 2014

1 Sewing Machine Videos

● Video 1

● Video 2

Apparel & Textile Production I - Summer 4 2014

● In the beginning, he only offered men's' and boys' patterns.

● In 1866 they began offering women's' dress patterns.

Apparel & Textile Production I - Summer 5 2014

● Paper Pattern- A pattern in sewing and fashion design is the paper or cardboard template from which the parts of a garment are traced onto fabric before cutting out and assembling

● Before Paper Patterns, people who sewed would lay out their fabrics and then hand draw the fabric cuts they wanted to made.

● Ellen Butterick, wife of Ebenezer, remarked to her husband how handy it would be if she had some sort of pattern to guide her in making her fabric cuts, a pattern that was the correct size for her son. Thus paper patterns were born.

Apparel & Textile Production I - Summer 6 2014

2 ● Charles Worth- a fashion designer who is widely considered the Father of Haute Couture.

● He is credited as the first designer to put labels onto the clothing he manufactured.

● Worth's designs are notable for his use of lavish fabrics and trimmings, his incorporation of elements of historic dress, and his attention to fit.

Apparel & Textile Production I - Summer 7 2014

● Ready-to-Wear; is the term for factory-made clothing, sold in finished condition, and in standardized sizes.

● Also called prêt-à-porter.

● Military uniforms were the first ready-to-wear garments to be mass-produced during the War of 1812.

● High-quality ready-to-wear garments for men became generally available soon thereafter.

Apparel & Textile Production I - Summer 8 2014

● Levi Strauss-the inventor of the quintessential American garment, the blue jean.

● In 1872 Jacob Davis, a Reno Nevada tailor, writes to Levi Strauss, telling him about the process he invented to rivet the pocket corners on men’s pants to make them stronger. He suggests the two men take out a patent on the process together and Levi agrees.

● In 1873 Levi Strauss & Jacob Davis are granted a patent on the process of riveting pants by the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office on May 20. It is patent number 139,121 and this is the invention of the blue jean. Apparel & Textile Production I - Summer 9 ● Originally called waist overalls2014

3 Levi Srauss Videos/Articles

● http://www.levistrauss.com/about/heritage

● http://us.levi.com/shop/index.jsp?categoryId=18816 896

● http://www.history.com/this-day-in-history/levistrauss-and-jacob-davis-receive-patent-for-blue- jeans

● http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JzJtv14Ieb4

Apparel & Textile Production I - Summer 10 2014

Apparel and Textile Design

20th Century Notes Activity

______In 1937, the U.S. Department of Agriculture prepared to conduct a study of women's body measurements for the purpose of creating a sizing system which the entire industry could follow. Before, there were no standardized sizes and there were no guidelines for sizing patterns or clothing.

In the ______companies asked the National Bureau of Standards to do research and provide a reliable industry sizing guide.

The resulting commercial standard was distributed by NBS to the industry for comment in 1953, formally accepted by the industry in 1957, and published as ______(CS)215-58 in 1958.

World War I ______The wartime economy, the change in population demographics, the expanding domestic economy (with more people working), and the shift to women in the ______all had a tremendous impact on fashion.

Before WWI, ______was the main fashion house. People looked to French designers to see what was in style.

The most lasting change happened to ______. Hems which had risen from floor length to ankle length prior to the war, rose to mid calf length by 1916, and have stayed that high, or higher, ever since.

World War II______The government found it necessary to ______food, gas, and even clothing during that time.

Nylon and wool were both needed by the military and ______was banned in the USA after the attack on Pearl Harbor.

______Emerged as a Fashion Leader.

Girdles were out as the ______was needed for the war effort.

______became a staple of women who worked in factories and soon gained widespread acceptance for casual wear

In February of 1947, Christian Dior introduced his ______, a style that shocked and outrages some and thrilled others.

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

20th Century Notes Activity

______a French fashion designer whom is one of the most important couturiers of the twentieth century.

In ______, he launched his first collection which featured the “New Look”

The “New Look” consisted of rounded shoulders, a cinched waist, and a very fully skirt. A very ______look.

After years of military and civilian uniforms, restrictions, and shortages, Dior offered not merely a new look but a new outlook.

______A famous French Fashion designer.

She is the only fashion designer to appear in ______

Chanel was credited with liberating women from the constraints of the "corseted silhouette" and popularizing the acceptance of a sportive, casual chic.

Chanel popularized the “______”.

Chanel No. 5 is still one of the top grossing perfumes.

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

20th Century Notes Activity

Answer Key

Standardized Sizes In 1937, the U.S. Department of Agriculture prepared to conduct a study of women's body measurements for the purpose of creating a sizing system which the entire industry could follow. Before, there were no standardized sizes and there were no guidelines for sizing patterns or clothing.

In the mid 1940’s companies asked the National Bureau of Standards to do research and provide a reliable industry sizing guide.

The resulting commercial standard was distributed by NBS to the industry for comment in 1953, formally accepted by the industry in 1957, and published as Commercial Standard(CS)215-58 in 1958.

World War I 1914-1918 The wartime economy, the change in population demographics, the expanding domestic economy (with more people working), and the shift to women in the workforce all had a tremendous impact on fashion.

Before WWI, France was the main fashion house. People looked to French designers to see what was in style.

The most lasting change happened to women's hemlines. Hems which had risen from floor length to ankle length prior to the war, rose to mid calf length by 1916, and have stayed that high, or higher, ever since.

World War II 1939-1945 The government found it necessary to ration food, gas, and even clothing during that time.

Nylon and wool were both needed by the military and Japanese silk was banned in the USA after the attack on Pearl Harbor.

New York Emerged as a Fashion Leader.

Girdles were out as the rubber was needed for the war effort.

Pants became a staple of women who worked in factories and soon gained widespread acceptance for casual wear

In February of 1947, Christian Dior introduced his New Look, a style that shocked and outrages some and thrilled others.

Christian Dior a French fashion designer whom is one of the most important couturiers of the twentieth century.

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

20th Century Notes Activity

Answer Key

In 1947, he launched his first collection which featured the “New Look”

The “New Look” consisted of rounded shoulders, a cinched waist, and a very fully skirt. A very feminine look.

After years of military and civilian uniforms, restrictions, and shortages, Dior offered not merely a new look but a new outlook.

Coco Chanel- A famous French Fashion designer.

She is the only fashion designer to appear in Time Magazine’s 100 Most Influential People of the 20th Century

Chanel was credited with liberating women from the constraints of the "corseted silhouette" and popularizing the acceptance of a sportive, casual chic.

Chanel popularized the “little black dress”.

Chanel No. 5 is still one of the top grossing perfumes.

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015 20th Century

Key Terms •Standardized Sizes- In 1937, the U.S. Department of Agriculture prepared to conduct a study of women's body measurements for the purpose of creating a sizing system which the entire industry could follow. Before, there were no standardized sizes and there were no guidelines for sizing patterns or clothing.

•In the mid 1940’s companies asked the National Bureau of Standards to do research and provide a reliable industry sizing guide.

•The resulting commercial standard was distributed by NBS to the industry for comment in 1953, formally accepted by the industry in 1957, and published asCommercial Standard (CS)215-58 in 1958.

•World War I (1914-1918)-The wartime economy, the change in population demographics, the expanding domestic economy (with more people working), and the shift to women in the workforce all had a tremendous impact on fashion.

•Before WWI, France was the main fashion house. People looked to French designers to see what was in style.

•The most lasting change happened to women's hemlines. Hems which had risen from floor length to ankle length prior to the war, rose to mid calf length by 1916, and have stayed that high, or higher, ever since.

1 •World War II(1939-1945)-The government found it necessary to ration food, gas, and even clothing during that time.

• Nylon and wool were both needed by the military and Japanese silk was banned in the USA after the attack on Pearl Harbor.

•New York Emerged as a Fashion Leader.

•Girdles were out as the rubber was needed for the war effort.

•Pants became a staple of women who worked in factories and soon gained widespread acceptance for casual wear

•In February of 1947, Christian Dior introduced his New Look, a style that shocked and outrages some and thrilled others.

World War I and World War II Videos ● http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7D8sRGzeqag

● http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q7Bz5cWkGHA

● http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zMu9W4bxx4

● http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqa35zXH6Lo

● http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qafnJ6mRbgk

• Christian Dior- a French fashion designer whom is one of the most important couturiers of the twentieth century.

•In 1947, he launched his first collection which featured the “New Look”

•The “New Look” consisted of rounded shoulders, a cinched waist, and a very fully skirt. A very feminine look.

•After years of military and civilian uniforms, restrictions, and shortages, Dior offered not merely a new look but a new outlook.

2 •Coco Chanel- A famous French Fashion designer.

•She is the only fashion designer to appear in Time Magazine’s 100 Most Influential People of the 20th Century

•Chanel was credited with liberating women from the constraints of the "corseted silhouette" and popularizing the acceptance of a sportive, casual chic.

•Chanel popularized the “little black dress”.

•Chanel No. 5 is still one of the top grossing perfumes.

Coco Chanel Videos/Articles

•http://inside.chanel.com/en/coco/video

•http://www.biography.com/people/coco‐ chanel‐9244165

Apparel and Textile Production I

21st Century Notes Activity

______is a contemporary term used by fashion retailers to express that designs move from catwalk quickly in order to capture current fashion trends.

Fast fashion clothing collections are based on the most ______fashion trends presented at Fashion Week in both the spring and the autumn of every year.

These trends are designed and manufactured ______to allow the mainstream consumer to take advantage of current clothing styles at a lower price.

This philosophy of quick manufacturing at an affordable price is used in large retailers such as ______.

It particularly came to the fore during the vogue for "boho chic" in the ______.

______is an electronic communications network that connects computer networks and organizational computer facilities around the world.

The Internet has had a massive impact on fashion shopping, drastically changing not only the way we ______clothes but also the way in which we are ______them.

The internet has made fashion ______!

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

21st Century Notes Activity

Answer Key

Fast Fashion is a contemporary term used by fashion retailers to express that designs move from catwalk quickly in order to capture current fashion trends.

Fast fashion clothing collections are based on the most recent fashion trends presented at Fashion Week in both the spring and the autumn of every year.

These trends are designed and manufactured quickly and cheaply to allow the mainstream consumer to take advantage of current clothing styles at a lower price.

This philosophy of quick manufacturing at an affordable price is used in large retailers such as H&M, Zara, Peacocks, and Topshop.

It particularly came to the fore during the vogue for "boho chic" in the mid-2000s.

Internet is an electronic communications network that connects computer networks and organizational computer facilities around the world.

The Internet has had a massive impact on fashion shopping, drastically changing not only the way we buy clothes but also the way in which we are market them.

The internet has made fashion global!

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015 6/18/2015

The 21st Century

Key Terms

• Fast Fashion-Fast fashion is a contemporary term used by fashion retailers to express that designs move from catwalk quickly in order to capture current fashion trends. Fast fashion clothing collections are based on the most recent fashion trends presented at Fashion Week in both the spring and the autumn of every year. These trends are designed and manufactured quickly and cheaply to allow the mainstream consumer to take advantage of current clothing styles at a lower price. This philosophy of quick manufacturing at an affordable price is used in large retailers such as H&M, Zara, Peacocks, and Topshop. It particularly came to the fore during the vogue for "boho chic" in the mid- 2000s.

1 6/18/2015

Fast Fashion videos

• http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZhkBfbwC zxc • http://www.nytimes.com/video/2013/05/08/ business/100000002214634/the‐price‐of‐fast‐ fashion‐.html • http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hpUm_U Qgid0

Key Terms

• Internet- an electronic communications network that connects computer networks and organizational computer facilities around the world. The Internet has had a massive impact on fashion shopping, drastically changing not only the way we buy clothes but also the way in which we are marketed them. The internet has made fashion global!

2 6/18/2015

Internet videos and articles

• http://vimeo.com/57573215 • http://connect.icrossing.co.uk/ten‐ways‐ internet‐changed‐fashion_7301

Blast from the CATEGORY 4 3 2 1 Past Rubric All historical Almost all historical Most of the historical Very little of the Historical information appears information appears information is historical information Accuracy to be accurate and in to be accurate and in accurate and in is accurate and/or in chronological order. chronological order. chronological order. chronological order.

Point-of-view, Point-of-view, Point-of-view, Point-of-view, arguments, and arguments, and arguments, and arguments, and Role solutions proposed solutions proposed solutions proposed solutions proposed are consistently in are often in are sometimes in are rarely in character. character. character. character. Can clearly explain several ways in which Can clearly explain Can clearly explain Cannot explain one the character “saw” several ways in which one way in which the way in which the Knowledge things differently than the character “saw” character “saw” character “saw” Gained other characters. Can things differently than things differently than things differently than also clearly explain other characters. other characters. other characters. why. Includes more Includes all Includes most Includes less Required information than was information that was information that was information than was Elements required. required. required. required. Uses several props (could include costume) that Uses 1–2 props that Uses no props OR Props/ accurately fit the Uses 1–2 props that accurately fit the the selected props Costume period, show make the period and make the detract from the (OPTIONAL) considerable presentation better. presentation better. presentation. work/creativity, and make the presentation better.

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

Coco Chanel Rubric

Ideas & Content Organization Voice Word Choice Sentence Fluency Conventions

Introduction is inviting. Lively, interesting, & Ideas & important details The writer shows a clear memorable writing The reader feels the The writing flows. Writer & paragraphs fit where understanding of Points keeps the reader's author's emotions. Writer uses appropriate uses different placed. Transitions used capitalization, scored attention. Writing sounds real & descriptive vocabulary beginnings & lengths for effectively between punctuation, spelling & Ideas are supported by has personality sentences ideas & paragraphs grammar details Ending is effective

•Writer knows topic •Carefully organized with •Has creative sentences 4 points really well varied transitions •Writer's personality •Has FEW or NO errors •Has a variety of strong of different kinds & Exceeds • Early Life, Significant •Lead grabs reader's comes through in a in capitalization, words lengths the Events, Contributions, attention special way punctuation, spelling & •Words create vivid •Sentences flow, making standard Char. Traits & •Conclusion works well •Writer's voice is lively & grammar pictures in reader's mind the writing enjoyable to WOW!! Conclusion all included. •Details & paragraphs confident •Writing is easy to read read •Many interesting details are in right order

• Early Life, Significant •Has some transitions •Sentences are different •Has FEW errors in 3 points Events, Contributions, •Writing has some •Most parts of paper fit • Most of the time the lengths capitalization, Meets the Char. Traits & strong words together. writer's voice & •Sentences have varied punctuation, spelling & standard Conclusion all included. •Some words create •Most details & personality show up in beginnings grammar You Did It! •Writer knows the topic pictures in the reader's paragraphs are in right the writing. •Sentences fit together •Sounds correct when •Most details fit & are mind order well read aloud interesting

•Missing ONE or more of •Sentences are too short •Too many errors in the following: Early Life, or too long capitalization, 2 points Significant Events, •Sometimes the writer's •Too many dull, ordinary •Few transitions used •Same beginnings used punctuation, spelling & In Process Contributions, Char. voice comes through words •Too many details are over and over grammar make the Needs Traits & Conclusion •Writing does not draw •Some words just don't out of order •Reader is confused & writing difficult to read Work! •Writer doesn’t know the reader in fit has to re-read for diting needed enough about the topic meaning •Needs more details

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

Apparel and Textile Production I

1.01 Crossword Puzzle Activity

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2014

1.01 Crossword Puzzle Activity

Across 1. A contemporary term used by fashion retailers to acknowledge that designs move from catwalk to store in the fastest time to capture current trends in the market. 3. It allowed a single weaver to weave much wider fabrics, and it could be mechanized, allowing for automatic machine looms. It was patented by John Kay 4. Made for the general market and sold through stores rather than made to order for an individual customer; off the rack. 7. A machine with a mechanically driven needle for sewing or stitching cloth. 8. An American inventor and sewing machine pioneer. 10. A French fashion designer, best known as the founder of one of the world's top fashion houses. The creator of The New Look. 11. A computer network consisting of a worldwide network. Played a huge role in globalizing fashion. 12. A machine used to spin cotton and other fibers in the mills. Invented by Samuel Crompton. 13. The Father of Haute couture. 14. A machine that quickly and easily separates cotton fibers from their seeds. Invented by Eli Whitney 15. The paper or cardboard template from which the parts of a garment are traced onto fabric before cutting out and assembling. 16. A machine for spinning with more than one spindle at a time, patented by James Hargreaves in 1770.

Down 2. Originally developed from statistical data in the 1940s-1950s. 5. A French fashion designer. Made the little black dress popular. 6. Rounded the first company to manufacture blue jeans. 9. Invented the commercially produced graded home sewing pattern in 1863

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2014

1.01 Crossword Puzzle Activity

Answer Key

Across 1. A contemporary term used by fashion retailers to acknowledge that designs move from catwalk to store in the fastest time to capture current trends in the market. Fast Fashion 3. It allowed a single weaver to weave much wider fabrics, and it could be mechanized, allowing for automatic machine looms. It was patented by John Kay Flying Shuttle 4. Made for the general market and sold through stores rather than made to order for an individual customer; off the rack. Ready to Wear 7. A machine with a mechanically driven needle for sewing or stitching cloth. Sewing Machine 8. An American inventor and sewing machine pioneer. Elias Howe 10. A French fashion designer, best known as the founder of one of the world's top fashion houses. The creator of The New Look. Christian Dior 11. A computer network consisting of a worldwide network. Played a huge role in globalizing fashion. Internet 12. A machine used to spin cotton and other fibers in the mills. Invented by Samuel Crompton. Spinning Mule 13. The Father of Haute couture. Charles Worth 14. A machine that quickly and easily separates cotton fibers from their seeds. Invented by Eli Whitney Cotton Gin 15. The paper or cardboard template from which the parts of a garment are traced onto fabric before cutting out and assembling. Paper Pattern 16. A machine for spinning with more than one spindle at a time, patented by James Hargreaves in 1770 Spinning Jenny

Down 2. Originally developed from statistical data in the 1940s-1950s. Standard Clothing Sizes 5. A French fashion designer. Made the little black dress popular. Coco Chanel 6. Founded the first company to manufacture blue jeans. Levi Strauss 9. Invented the commercially produced graded home sewing pattern in 1863 Ebenezer Butterick

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2014

Apparel and Textile Production I

1.01 Crossword Puzzle Activity

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

1.01 Crossword Puzzle Activity

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015 Name: ______Date: ______

Debate Worksheet

General Topic:

Statement:

Your Team (circle one) Pro Con

Arguments that support your side: Facts or song lines that support each argument:

➟

Arguments your opponents might make: Rebuttals to your opponent’s arguments:

➟

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2014 Page 11

Fashion from the Past Rubric

Fashion has always taken inspiration from the past decades. In designers hands the visual content of the past has been modified to fit in the present moment. And our attention is drawn to these beautiful dresses, accessories and other object presented in the catwalks, stores and magazines.

CATEGORY Fabulous - 10 Points Great - 7 points Better - 5 points Good - 3 points Collaborative All group members Most group members Only a few group Not much group Workers worked hard to assist participated and did a members worked participation. one another. majority of the work. together to complete project. Oral All group members Most group members Few group members Did not present much Presentation participated equally in spoke. Not much figiditing. spoke. Had a few information, spoke briefly. verbally explaining your Most of class could hear improper speaking habits. Limited subject coverage. project to the class. presentation. Most Poor to bad presentation Spoke clearly and loud members with good posture habits. enough for class to and eye contact. hear. Great posture and eye contact with class. Prezi Display Very visually pleasing Nice board display. Found Have display board Late with display board. display. Explains attire good pictures. Most of present. Shows some Some work completed. completely. Very clear audience could see and work completed. Missing Little to no effort shown for audience to see. understand display. some data and other towards display board. information. Written Description completed Description had few Some grammar and Several grammar and Information on time. No grammar or grammar and spelling spelling mistakes. Fair spelling mistakes. Poor spelling mistakes. mistakes. Good organization. organization. Description Excellent organization. organization. not turned in complete.

Overall Overall Impact a crowd Very nice assignment. Few Showed half effort Very poor presentation. Performance pleaser. Visually and errors, good group work, overall. Parts missing or Group did not work verbally stimulating. understood and explained incorrect. Some members together. Project Kept class entertained. topic well. absent or did not completed late. Showed Group showed respect participate. little interest in assignment for one another.

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

The Fashion History Project Rubric

Fabulous - Great - Better - Good - CATEGORY 10 Points 7 points 5 points 3 points Did not present Not much Spoke clearly much figiditing. Most and loud information, of class could Had a few enough for spoke briefly. Oral hear improper class to hear. Limited subject Presentation presentation. speaking Great posture coverage. Poor Good posture habits. and eye contact to bad and eye with class. presentation contact. habits. Very visually Nice timeline Late with Have timeline pleasing display. Found timeline. Some Shows some display. good pictures. work work Timeline Explains history Most of completed. completed. Display completely. audience could Little to no Missing some Very clear for see and effort shown data and other audience to understand towards display information. see. display. board. Paper completed on Several time. No Paper had few Some grammar grammar and grammar or grammar and and spelling spelling spelling spelling mistakes. Fair mistakes. Poor Written mistakes. mistakes. Good organization. organization. Information Excellent organization. Paper not put Paper not organization. Almost all together turned in Proper format Information completely or complete or and entire found. properly. correctly put paper done together. completely. Overall Impact Very poor a crowd Very nice presentation. pleaser. assignment. Showed half Project Overall Visually and Few errors effort overall. completed late. Performance verbally understood and Parts missing Showed little stimulating. explained topic or incorrect... interest in Kept class well. assignment entertained.

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

Apparel and Textile Production I

Industrial Revolution Notes Activity

1. ______was one of the key developments in the industrialization of weaving. It allowed a single weaver to weave much wider fabrics, and it could be mechanized, allowing for automatic machine looms. 2. It was patented by ______(1704–c. 1779) in 1733. 3. ______is a machine used to spin cotton and other fibers in the mills. 4. ______invented the spinning mule or mule jenny in 1779. 5. The spinning mule spins textile fibers into yarn by an intermittent process. 6. ______is a multi-spindle spinning frame 7. It was invented in 1764 by ______8. The device reduced the amount of work needed to produce yarn, with a worker able to work ______or more spools at once. 9. This grew to ______as technology advanced. 10. ______a machine that automated the separation of cottonseed from the short-staple cotton fiber. 11. ______was the inventor of the cotton gin and a pioneer in the mass production of cotton. 12. Prior to his invention, farming cotton required hundreds of man-hours to separate the cottonseed from the raw cotton fibers. 13. ______was an American inventor and sewing machine pioneer. 14. Contrary to popular belief, Howe was not the first to conceive of the idea of a sewing machine. Many other people had formulated the idea of such a machine before him, one as early as 1790. 15. Howe originated significant refinements to the design concepts of his predecessors, and on September 10, 1846, he was awarded the first United States patent (U.S. Patent 4,750) for a sewing machine using a lockstitch design. 16. His machine contained the three essential features common to most modern machines: ______

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

Industrial Revolution Notes Activity

Answer Key

1. ___Flying Shuttle___ was one of the key developments in the industrialization of weaving. It allowed a single weaver to weave much wider fabrics, and it could be mechanized, allowing for automatic machine looms. 2. It was patented by _John Kay(1704–c. 1779) in 1733. 3. Spinning Mule is a machine used to spin cotton and other fibers in the mills. 4. Samuel Crompton invented the spinning mule or mule jenny in 1779. 5. The spinning mule spins textile fibers into yarn by an intermittent process. 6. Spinning Jenny is a multi-spindle spinning frame 7. It was invented in 1764 by James Hargreaves 8. The device reduced the amount of work needed to produce yarn, with a worker able to work Eight or more spools at once. 9. This grew to 120 as technology advanced. 10. Cotton Gin a machine that automated the separation of cottonseed from the short-staple cotton fiber. 11. Eli Whitney was the inventor of the cotton gin and a pioneer in the mass production of cotton. 12. Prior to his invention, farming cotton required hundreds of man-hours to separate the cottonseed from the raw cotton fibers. 13. Elias Howe was an American inventor and sewing machine pioneer. 14. Contrary to popular belief, Howe was not the first to conceive of the idea of a sewing machine. Many other people had formulated the idea of such a machine before him, one as early as 1790. 15. Howe originated significant refinements to the design concepts of his predecessors, and on September 10, 1846, he was awarded the first United States patent (U.S. Patent 4,750) for a sewing machine using a lockstitch design. 16. His machine contained the three essential features common to most modern machines: i. a needle with the eye at the point, ii. a shuttle operating beneath the cloth to form the lock stitch iii. an automatic feed

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015 Industrial Revolution

Key Terms

• Flying Shuttle- was one of the key developments in the industrialization of weaving. It allowed a single weaver to weave much wider fabrics, and it could be mechanized, allowing for automatic machine looms.

•It was patented by John Kay (1704–c. 1779) in 1733.

•Video of the flying shuttle: www.youtube.com/watch?v=PCpYJ7iiS40

•Spinning Mule-is a machine used to spin cotton and other fibers in the mills.

•Samuel Crompton invented the spinning mule or mule jenny in 1779.

•The spinning mule spins textile fibers into yarn by an intermittent process.

1 •Spinning Jenny-is a multi-spindle spinning frame

•It was invented in 1764 by James Hargreaves

•The device reduced the amount of work needed to produce yarn, with a worker able to work eight or more spools at once.

•This grew to 120 as technology advanced.

•Video of a spinning jenny: http://history.howstuffworks.com/31667‐industrial‐ revelations‐spinning‐jenny‐video.htm

•Cotton Gin-a machine that automated the separation of cottonseed from the short-staple cotton fiber.

•Eli Whitney was the inventor of the cotton gin and a pioneer in the mass production of cotton.

•Prior to his invention, farming cotton required hundreds of man-hours to separate the cottonseed from the raw cotton fibers.

•Videos about the cotton gin: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0SMNYivhGsc

•Elias Howe- was an American inventor and sewing machine pioneer.

•Contrary to popular belief, Howe was not the first to conceive of the idea of a sewing machine. Many other people had formulated the idea of such a machine before him, one as early as 1790.

•Howe originated significant refinements to the design concepts of his predecessors, and on September 10, 1846, he was awarded the first United States patent (U.S. Patent 4,750) for a sewing machine using a lockstitch design.

•His machine contained the three essential features common to most modern machines:

a needle with the eye at the point,

a shuttle operating beneath the cloth to form the lock stitch

an automatic feed

2 Videos and Articles

● http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hpwaVq TFteo

Apparel and Textile Production I

Levi Strauss Activity

Directions: Use the Levi Strauss Prezi and have students follow the Prezi and fill in the notes.

1. Levi Strauss lived from January 26, 1829 to September 26, 1902. Discuss the changes that jeans may have taken during his lifetime. What changes have they made from 1902 to now?

2. Have students get in groups and design a new kind of jeans that they think would be popular today. Discuss their design and any interesting features.

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

Levi Strauss Activity

1. In 1997 the oldest pair of blue jeans was sold for ______?

2. What is Levi’s birth name______?

3. Levi moved from New York to ______.

4. The blue jeans were originally called?

5. Jacob Davis added ______to the blue jeans to help the

pants from tearing.

6. Jeans were born on when?

7. How much did the first jeans sell for?

8. The faded streaks on jeans are called what?

9. The zipper was added to Levis when?

10. Movie stars made jeans popular in the 19______.

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

Levi Strauss Activity

Answer Key

1. In 1997 the oldest pair of blue jeans was sold for $25,000 ?

2. What is Levi’s birth name LÖB

3. Levi moved from New York to San Fransisco

4. The blue jeans were originally called? Waist Overalls

5. Jacob Davis added rivets to the blue jeans to help the pants from tearing.

6. Jeans were born on when? May 20th, 1873

7. How much did the first jeans sell for? $1.50

8. The faded streaks on jeans are called what? Whiskers

9. The zipper was added to Levis when? 1954

10. Movie stars made jeans popular in the 1950’s.

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015 1.02

COURSE FA31 – Apparel and Textile Production I ESSENTIAL Understand the apparel industry and 1.00 B2 27% STANDARD design. OBJECTIVE 1.02 B2 15% Understand apparel design. 1. How is technology used in the fashion design industry? 2. How are croquis’ used in the apparel design process? ESSENTIAL 3. What are the elements of design and how are they applied in QUESTIONS apparel design? 4. What are the principles of design and how are they used in designing a garment?

UNPACKED CONTENT

A. Design Process 1. Croquis 2. CAD 3. Technology B. Elements of Design 1. Color 2. Line 3. Shape/form 4. Texture C. Principles of Design 1. Balance 2. Proportion 3. Rhythm 4. Emphasis

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015 Page 8

INSTRUCTIONAL ACTIVITIES 1.00 Understand the apparel industry and design 1.02 Understand apparel design. A. Design Process Portfolio Option: Throughout this curriculum we offer a portfolio option. Look for this ╬ icon throughout the curriculum. This is an opportunity for your students to collect their work throughout the class. This website offers a digital component. Key Terms Croquis Computer Aided Design 1.  Demonstrate design process by viewing The Design Process about Joseph Altuzarra see how designers get inspiration.

Instructional Resources: Websites

2.  Define Croquis and give examples.  Hand out Design Activity Assignment show examples of fashion design portfolios online (how croquis are used by designers) o Example 1 o Example 2 o Example 3  Design Activity – have students find “inspiration”. o You are going to an awards show and are designing an outfit for a famous artist attending the show. o Use the croquis to draw the outfit. Assign Design Activity Assignment(see attached sheet)

Instructional Resources:  Websites  Design Activity Assignment

3.  Define Computer Aided Fashion Design  Show video: YouTube – illustration or CAD (Sketch) o CAD - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xhYl9ZuVuLE o Adobe Illustrator for Fashion Design - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gk3yexe7vGs  Read Article from the web about 10 innovations in Fashion http://www.treehugger.com/sustainable-fashion/10-awesome-innovations- changing-future-fashion.html

Discussion Questions What is the impact of CAD on Fashion Design processes? Instructional Resources Websites

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015 Page 9

A. Design Process 4.  Describe fashion design careers by completing the Apparel I Design Career Project.

Instructional Resources  Design Career Project Handout  Examples of Fashion Careers Handout

╬ Portfolio Option Students should complete the Design Activity croquis and include it in their portfolio.

FCCLA Connection Students can complete STAR Event Projects like Fashion Design and Recycle and Redesign to reinforce their skills.

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015 Page 10

1.02 Understand apparel design. B. Elements of Design Key Terms Monochromatic Complementary Split-Complementary Analogous Triadic 1.  Understand information on color wheel. o Students will create a color wheel using only primary colors with paint. Color Wheel handout and Color Wheel Rubric are included in the instructional resources folder. o Demo how to mix paint to create secondary & tertiary colors.

Instructional Resources  1.02 Understand Fashion Design PowerPoint Slides 1 – 6)  Color Wheel handout  Color Wheel Rubric  Textbook: Apparel: Design, Textiles, & Construction – Chapter 16 & 17 OR Clothing: Fashion, Fabrics & Construction – Chapter 9 &10

2.  Understand information on color schemes. Teacher presents information using PowerPoint, video, or have student define terms. o Monochromatic o Complementary o Split-complementary o Analogous o Triadic o Warm colors o Cool colors

 Students should find examples of all color schemes using pattern catalogs or fashion magazines.

Instructional Resources  1.02 Understand Fashion Design PowerPoint (Slides 1 – 6)  Textbook: Apparel: Design, Textiles, & Construction – Chapter 16 & 17 OR Clothing: Fashion, Fabrics & Construction – Chapter 9 &10

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015 Page 11

B. Elements of Design

3.  Understand other elements of design (besides color). Teacher presents PowerPoint, video, or have student define terms.  Key Terms o Vertical Line o Horizontal Line o Diagonal Line o Curved Line o Shape o Silhouette o Natural Shape o Tubular Shape o Bell Shape o Full Shape o Space o Texture

 Understand elements of design by completing Elements of Design Magazine Assignment by using the pattern catalogs and clip and paste (neatly) on another piece of paper an example of each of the elements of design.

Instructional Resources  Elements & Principles of Design PowerPoint (Slides 7 – 13)  Elements of Design Magazine Assignment  Textbook: Apparel: Design, Textiles, & Construction – Chapter 16 & 17 OR Clothing: Fashion, Fabrics & Construction – Chapter 9 &10

╬ Portfolio Option Students complete Elements of Design Magazine Assignment and add to their portfolio

FCCLA Connection Students complete STAR Events Projects to reinforce skills

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1.02 Understand apparel design. C. Principals of Design Key Terms Symmetrical Balance Asymmetrical Balance Proportion Emphasis Rhythm Repetition Radiation Gradation Harmony 1.  Understand principles of design.  Teacher presents PowerPoint and have student define terms.  Key Terms: o Symmetrical Balance o Asymmetrical Balance o Proportion o Emphasis o Rhythm o Repetition o Radiation o Gradation o Harmony

 Understand principles of design by completing Principles of Design Project using previous elements of design assignment.

╬ Portfolio Option Students should complete the Principles of Design Project to include in their portfolio.

FCCLA Connection Students can complete STAR Events Projects to reinforce skills.

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015 Page 13 Color Wheel Rubric

Name ______Period ______

Color Wheel Rubric

 Colors are in the proper place (5 pts.)  Coloring is neat (10 pts.)  Wheel includes both colors and shades (15 pts)  Each color is labeled (5 pts.)  Lettering is correct (10 pts.)  Color wheel is mounted (5 pts.)

Score ______

Name ______Period ______

Color Wheel Rubric

Score ______

Name ______Period ______

Color Wheel Rubric

Score ______

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

Apparel and Textile Production I

Color Wheel Activity

Color Wheel

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

Apparel and Textile Production I

1.02 Design Activity

Pretend you are going to a big awards show in the music or movie industry or pretend you are a designer designing an outfit for a famous artist attending a big awards show.

Using the following design activity croquis draw the outfit using the elements and principles of design. You must indicate in writing the following:

1. Emphasis (what do you see when you first look at the person?) 2. Color (what does the color you choose represent?) 3. Line (what kind of line are you choosing and why? – does the person need to look larger or smaller, taller?) 4. Balance (formal or informal?) 5. Shape (which of the 3 basic shapes did you use?) 6. Rhythm (which kind of the 4 types of rhythm did you use)

15 points per element or principle

10 point total for creativity Grade ______

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

1.02 Design Activity

You are going to a big awards show in the music or movie industry and are designing an outfit for a famous artist attending a big awards show. Use the croquis to draw the outfit.

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

1.02 Design Activity

You are going to a big awards show in the music or movie industry and are designing an outfit for a famous artist attending a big awards show. Use the croquis to draw the outfit.

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

Apparel and Textile Production I

Design Career Project Activity

Name ______

Research the information on a fashion design career from the Fashion Career Examples or find out yourself that you are interested in researching.

Be ready to share the following information with the class using a visual presentation – poster, PowerPoint, brochure etc. The information below should be included in your visual:

1. Name of Career and how it fits into the fashion design industry. 2. Education and/or training needed to be successful in the career. a. Are there specific schools or ‘best’ schools to attend? 3. Tasks and responsibilities associated with the career. 4. Job opportunities & constraints. Where and with who can you find a job in this career? 5. Salary and benefits. 6. Describe at least one real person in career field and how they got started or what they do now. 7. 2 Miscellaneous Facts: career pathways, famous people in this career, trivia about the job, etc. 8. At least 6 different pictures of people doing the job or of products created on the job etc. 9. Bibliography of every source you used.

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

Design Career Project Rubric

10 9 8 7 6 4 2 0

1)Career Choice

2)Education/Training

3)Job Responsibilities

4)Job Perks & Opportunities

5)Salary/Benefits

6)Real Expert in Career

7) 2 Miscellaneous Facts

8)6 Pictures of Career in Action

9) BIBLIOGRAPHY

10) Creativity

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

Apparel and Textile Production I

Elements of Design Magazine Activity

1. Using the pattern catalogs provided clip and paste (neatly) on another piece of paper an example of each of the elements of design. 2. Indicate in full sentences what area of the garment or outfit fits the particular element of design. a. You need the following examples: i. Color 1. Monochromatic 2. Complementary ii. Line iii. Shape iv. Texture

Grading: Each examples with explanation 20 point each

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

Textile and Apparel Production I

Examples of Fashion Careers Activity

Personal Stylists: Some department stores provide personal styling services while some private customer would employ personal stylist giving them recommendations in personal styling.

Pattern Graders: The sizing of garment starts with the pattern grading. Pattern graders are experts in creating size specifications for different sizes.

Fitting Models: Fitting is a crucial part in fashion industry. Most precise fitting is to use model as body for fitting.

Technical Designers: Technical designers are responsible for doing fittings during the whole sampling to production procedure. They are experts in providing alternatives to the garment to improve the fitting.

Pattern Makers: Pattern is the basis for a garment to be sewed. Pattern makers produce & maintain patterns for garments that designers have sketched out. Pattern makers are key persons in realization of a garment.

Apparel designers: From lingerie, sportswear, casual wear, high fashion couture, for men, women and kids.

Footwear designers: Design footwear for men, women & kids from style point of view & foot-health’s perspective.

Accessory designers: Accessories - from handbags, hat, eyewear to gloves, scarves and jewelry pieces

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

Examples of Fashion Careers Activity

Useful Websites

To find out what fashion career you might like to research: http://fidm.edu/en/Career+Center/Take+a+Career+Quiz/ http://fashionista.com/2010/08/which-fashion-career-is-right-for-you/ http://www.mymajors.com/fashion-major

To find salary & job prospects:

http://www.bls.gov/ooh/ - Occupational Outlook Handbook

Others that will help: http://www.fashioncareerstips.com/ http://fashionista.com/fashion-careers/ http://www.deltacollege.edu/div/finearts/fashion/FASHIONCAREERS.htm http://www.creativeskillset.org/fashion_and_textiles/careers/ http://fashionista.com/2012/10/5-types-of-fashion-jobs-that-didnt-exist-5-years-ago/ http://www.itrain.org/lmi/ventura/g340380.htm http://showandsketch.blogspot.com/2012/04/fashion-careers-job-list-in-fashion.html http://moxyl.hubpages.com/hub/Jobs-in-Fashion-Industry http://teenfashion.about.com/od/fashionscoop/a/Hot-Fashion-Careers-How-To-Become- A-Fashion-Buyer.htm http://www.fashion-careers.com/pages/resources-old.html http://voices.yahoo.com/5- unique-fashion-careers5812436.html http://voices.yahoo.com/the-business-side-fashion-business-oriented-careers- 6377000.html?cat=46 http://www.teenvogue.com/careers/fashion-careers http://voices.yahoo.com/popular-careers-fashion-majors-635881.html?cat=31 http://www.fashion-modeling-careers.com/fashion-careers.html

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

Examples of Fashion Careers Activity

Useful Websites

http://jobs.aol.com/articles/2011/05/16/mens-utlimate-guide-to-starting-a-career-in- fashion/ http://www.channelone.com/life/careers-in-fashion/ http://www.fashionschoolreview.com/article-category/fashion-careers.html http://woman.thenest.com/types-careers-fashion-6182.html

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

APPAREL AND TEXTILE PRODUCITON I

PRINCIPLES OF DESIGN PROJECT ACTIVITY

USING YOUR ELEMENTS OF DESIGN PICTURES, ON A SEPERATE SHEET OF PAPER (MAKE SURE YOUR PICTURES ARE LABELED) DESCRIBE EACH OF THE PRINCIPLES OF DESIGN FOR EACH PICTURE.

MAKE SURE YOU INCLUDE EACH OF THE FOLLOWING:

RHYTHM

BALANCE

HARMONY

EMPHASIS

PROPORTION

5 PICTURES WITH 5 PRINCIPLES EACH - 4 POINTS PER PRINCIPLE

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

Elements of design • Color •Line

• Shape/Silhouette •Texture

Textile & Apparel Production I 1

Hue: (1) The technical word for color. (2) The name given to Color a color, such as red or yellow, that distinguishes one color from another.

Value: The lightness or darkness of a color. Tint: The lighter hue created when white is Intensity: The brightness added to a color. or dullness of a color. Shade: The darker hue Neutrals: Black, white, created when black is beige, and gray. Neutrals added to a color. can be used alone or with any other colors.

Textile & Apparel Production I 2

• Primary hues: Red, yellow, blue. These colors cannot be made by using any other color. All other colors are made from a combination of these.

• Secondary hues: Orange, green, violet. These are created by mixing equal amounts of two primary colors.

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1 Color schemes Plans that can be used to provide harmonious color combinations.

• Monochromatic • Split- complementary • Analogous • Triad • Complementary • Accented Neutrals

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Monochromatic color Analogous colors

• Different tints, shades, Two to five colors that are and intensities of a single adjacent on the color color. wheel.

• Example: light blue Example: orange, yellow- trousers and jacket with a orange and yellow worn navy blue vest. together

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Complementary colors Split-complementary colors

One color plus the Two colors colors on each side of opposite each its complement. other on the color wheel. Example: red combines with yellow-green and Example: blue-green. Orange and blue

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2 Triad colors Accented neutral

White, gray, black, or Three colors beige with a bright that are color accent. equidistant from each Example: other on the Businesswoman color wheel. wearing a gray dress with a red scarf.

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Shape

The silhouette or the overall form or outline of an outfit or clothing style.

Most silhouettes are formed by:

The width and length of the neckline, sleeves, and/or waistline. The width and length of pants and skirts.

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Line A distinct, elongated mark that can lead the path of eye movement up and down, side to side, or around objects. • Give direction, or a feeling of movement • Provides visual direction • Helps draw attention to good points and play down the bad ones.

Basic types of lines Straight lines: Lines without curves or bends. Straight lines are severe and formal and suggest power and dignity.

Curved lines: Circular or gently waved lines. Curved lines add softness and roundness to apparel.

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3 Directions of lines •Vertical lines: Lines that go up and down. Vertical lines create a taller, more slender look. •Horizontal lines: Lines that go across. Horizontal lines give a shorter, wider look. •Diagonal lines: Lines that slant at an angle rather than being vertical or horizontal.

Textile & Apparel Production I 10

Ways to create lines in garments

•Structural lines: Lines formed by the seams, darts, pleats, tucks, and edges when garments are constructed. •Decorative lines: Lines created by details added to the surface of clothing including fabric design and trims such as topstitching, lace, tabs, flaps, and buttons used to decorate the garment.

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Texture: The look and feel of fabric.

•Can create illusions of size •Can disguise figure irregularities •Can add interest to a garment Texture can be provided in two ways…

Structural texture: Texture determined by the fibers, yarns, and the method of construction used to produce a garment. Examples: velvet shirt, striped wool pants Added visual texture: The finishes and designs applied to the surface of the fabric. Examples: The print of the fabric can give the illusion of height or width to the wearer. Shiny textures make people look larger because they reflect light.

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4 Principles of design

• Balance • Proportion • Emphasis • Rhythm

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Balance The principle of design that implies equilibrium or steadiness among the parts of a design or outfit.

•Balance in garments is Formal balance Equilibrium provided produced by structural by symmetrical parts. parts and added decoration. One side resembles the other. •A properly balanced garment appears equal in weight and power of attraction from all sides, from top to bottom, and Informal balance Equilibrium provided by from front to back. asymmetrical parts. One side is unequal to the other.

Textile & Apparel Production I 14

Proportion

The principle of design dealing with the relative sizes of all the parts in a design to each other and to the whole.

•Garment details and accessories should be proportioned for the wearer. •Proportion is most pleasing when garment areas are unevenly divided.

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5 Emphasis

The principle of design that uses a concentration of interest or area of focus in a particular part or area of design.

• Emphasis or a focal point can be used to draw attention or to keep the eye away. • Emphasis can be provided through the use of color, texture, structural lines, decorative lines, or accessories.

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The principle of design concerned with the Rhythm pleasing arrangement of the design elements to produce a feeling of continuity or easy movement of the observer’s eye. Gradation Or Radiation: Alternation: Repetition: Progression: Rhythm Rhythm Rhythm Rhythm created by created by created by created by a lines alternating repeated gradual emerging from elements such lines, increase or a central point as light and shapes, decrease of like rays, dark colors or colors, or similar design resulting in stripes of two textures in elements. the parts colors or sizes. a garment. being an equal distance from a given point.

Textile & Apparel Production I 17

To appear shorter and thicker To appear taller and thinner Black, navy blue, charcoal, and chocolate brown Monochromatic colors Straight silhouettes Vertical lines Subtle prints, plaids • Sharply contrasting colors Smooth, flat textures • Light, bright, warm colors Narrow, matching belt • Wide silhouettes • Horizontal lines • Bold prints, plaids • Bulky texture • Wide, contrasting belt • Gathers or pleats

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6 2.01

COURSE FA31 – Apparel and Textile Production I ESSENTIAL 2.00 B2 20% Understand textiles STANDARD OBJECTIVE 2.01 B2 15% Understand fibers, fabrics, and finishes

1. What are the characteristics of natural fibers? 2. What are the characteristics of manufactured fibers? ESSENTIAL 3. Why should fabric construction methods be considered when QUESTIONS producing apparel? 4. What are the types of weaves? 5. What are the types of knits and how are they constructed?

UNPACKED CONTENT

A. Characteristics 1. Abrasion resistance 2. Absorbency 3. Durability 4. Elasticity 5. Resiliency 6. Strength 7. Warmth 8. Wicking B. Fibers 1. Natural a. Cellulosic i. Cotton ii. Flax/linen b. Protein i. Wool ii. Silk c. Specialty Hair i. Angora ii. Mohair iii. Cashmere 2. Manufactured a. Cellulosic i. Acetate ii. Lyocell iii. Rayon b. Non-cellulosic i. Nylon ii. Olefin

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iii. Polyester iv. Spandex C. Fabric Construction 1. Weaves a. Plain b. Satin c. Twill d. Pile 2. Knits a. weft b. warp c. seamless 3. Non-Wovens D. Finishes 1. Dyeing a. Fiber dyeing b. Yarn dyeing c. Piece dyeing d. Garment dyeing 2. Printing a. Roller printing b. Screen printing c. Rotary screen printing d. Heat transfer printing e. Digital printing

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INSTRUCTIONAL ACTIVITIES 2.00 Understand textiles 2.01 Understand fibers, fabrics, and finishes. A. Characteristics Portfolio Option: Throughout this curriculum we offer a portfolio option. Look for this╬ icon throughout the curriculum. This is an opportunity for your students to collect their work throughout the class. This website offers a digital component. Key Terms Fiber Textile Fabric Apparel

1.  Students should define the key terms listed above either on paper or electronically.  Students will be adding to the list of key terms as they progress through the activities in this objective.  Teacher will discuss common sources and everyday uses.  Show video or show PowerPoint presentation on www.cte.online (Reference “Textiles” and Cyndi Whitton’s lesson)

╬ Portfolio Option This may be added to the student’s portfolio.

Instructional Resources Web and/or available textbooks such as: Clothing: Fashion, Fabrics and Construction by Glencoe/McGraw Hill Apparel: Design, Textiles & Construction by Goodheart-Willcox Fashion! by Goodheart-Willcox Student computers or classroom computer/projector Notebook paper

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A. Characteristics Key Terms Natural fiber Cellulosic Protein Manufactured fiber Abrasion resistance Absorbency Durability Elasticity Resiliency Strength Warmth Wicking 2.  Students will work with a partner to research and define the key terms listed above either on paper or electronically.  This assignment should be added to the key term list from Activity #1.  Teacher and students should discuss their results to check for understanding.

Instructional Resources  Web and/or available textbooks such as: Clothing : Fashion, Fabrics and Construction by Glencoe/McGraw Hill Apparel: Design, Textiles & Construction by Goodheart-Willcox Fashion! by Goodheart-Willcox  Student computers or classroom computer/projector  Key Term list from Activity #1

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2.01 Understand fibers, fabrics, and finishes. B. Fibers 1.  Begin lesson by reviewing the Fiber Project Rubric and the instructions below to insure students understand their project assignment.  Show students a video such as “Clothing Fibers” by Learning Seed to introduce fibers and their different classifications and characteristics.  Have students take notes while watching the video.  Video: www.learningseed.com (Reference “Clothing Fibers”) 2.  Students should attach 2” samples of the following fibers to separate index cards attached by a ring (or as an alternative assignment have students complete a separate handout for each fiber using the Fiber Information Handout) filling in the information listed below and attaching a 2” fabric sample: o Cotton o Flax/linen o Wool o Silk o Acetate o Rayon o Lyocell o Nylon o Olefin o Polyester o Spandex o One specialty hair fiber such as angora, mohair or cashmere  Students should add the following information on each fiber’s card: o Natural, manufactured, or specialty fiber (list appropriate category) o Source (cellulosic, protein, or manufactured) o Abrasion resistance o Absorbency o Durability o Elasticity o Resiliency o Strength o Warmth o Wicking ability o One garment end use

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B. Fibers  Alternative: Students may also complete a separate handout for each fiber filling in the information listed above and attaching a 2” fabric sample.

╬ Portfolio Option This project may be added to a student’s portfolio. Instructional Resources Web and/or available textbooks such as: Clothing : Fashion, Fabrics and Construction by Glencoe/McGraw Hill Apparel: Design, Textiles & Construction by Goodheart-Willcox Fashion! by Goodheart-Willcox Videos on clothing fibers such as “Clothing Fibers” from Learning Seed , “Natural Fibers” from Meridian and “Natural Fibers to Fabrics and Beyond” and “Manufactured Fibers to Fabrics and Beyond” from Insight Media Fabric samples gathered from fabric stores Index cards and rings Fiber Information handout

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2.01 Understand fibers, fabrics and finishes C. Fabric Construction Key Terms Weave Knit 1.  Teacher will allow students to view the Fabric Construction PPT.  Students will work with a partner to research and define the key terms listed above either on paper or electronically.  This assignment should be added to the key term list from previous activities.  Teacher and students should discuss their results to check for understanding.  Students should produce a computer presentation project consisting of slides/screens containing information and pictures on the following methods of fabric construction: o Plain weave o Twill weave o Satin weave o Weft knit o Warp knit o Seamless knit o Other nonwoven fabrics

 Information to be presented should include: o a brief description of the fabric construction method o common fabrics for each method o advantages and disadvantages of each method o a close-up picture of each fabric construction method o 1-2 pictures of suggested garments for each construction method. o Any other definitive characteristics that would result in easy fabric construction method identification for the student should be included, such as the obvious diagonal ridges of a twill weave, etc.

 Students will be printing their projects so they should leave room to attach an actual fabric swatch to match each fabric construction method.

 Students should also create a weaving sample of each of the three weaves

researched. These samples will be added to blank pages at the end of the

printed computer presentation project and labeled with their correct names.

 To access the weaving activity :www.uen.org

(Search for: “Fabric Construction Lesson Plan” and “Weaving Activity”)

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C. Fabric Construction ╬ Portfolio Option This project may be added to a student’s portfolio.

Instructional Resources Web and/or available textbooks Student computers Printer Fabric samples gathered from fabric stores Construction paper or white paper Weaving activity handouts Grading rubric www.uen.org

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2.01 Understand fibers, fabrics and finishes D. Fabric Finishes 1. Students should research the following fabric finishing techniques and create a document or presentation summarizing their results: o Fiber dyeing o Yarn dyeing o Piece dyeing o Garment dyeing o Roller printing o Screen printing o Rotary screen printing o Heat transfer printing o Digital printing

Students should include the following information about each technique: o Name and brief description of each technique o Typical fabrics produced using the technique o Advantages and disadvantages of the technique o If available, a fabric sample representing each technique

Portfolio Option This project may be added to a student’s portfolio.

╬ Instructional Resources Web and/or available textbooks such as: Clothing : Fashion, Fabrics and Construction by Glencoe/McGraw Hill Apparel: Design, Textiles & Construction by Goodheart-Willcox Fashion! by Goodheart-Willcox Fabric samples gathered from fabric stores Student computers Printer Grading rubric

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1.02 Understanding The Technical Design Process

B. Fabric Selection 1. Fabric Construction

Turning Yarn into Fabric

Weaving: The process of interlacing one or more sets of yarns at right angles on a loom.  Warp yarns: Yarns that run lengthwise in woven fabric. (“p” = up and down)  Weft yarns: Yarns that run crosswise in woven fabric. (“weft” sounds like left & right)

Turning Yarn into Fabric (cont.)

 Grain: The direction of the lengthwise and crosswise yarns in a woven fabric.  Bias: The diagonal grain of a fabric. The bias provides the greatest stretch in the fabric.

1 Weaving Plain weave: The simplest weave in which the weft (crosswise) yarn is passed over then under each warp (lengthwise) yarn.

A basket weave is one variation, with the Plain weave weft yarn passing over Examples: two and under two chiffon warp yarns each pass. gingham seersucker taffeta

Weaving Twill weave: A very strong weave in which the weft yarn is passed over and under one, two, or three warp yarns

Used for durability, this weave produces a Twill weave diagonal design on the surface. Examples: denim, chino gabardine

Weaving Satin weave: A very weak weave that produces a smooth, shiny-surfaced fabric resulting from passing the weft yarn over and under numerous warp yarns to create long Satin weave floats. Examples: sateen satin

2 Weaving

 In textiles, pile is the raised surface or nap of a fabric, which is made of upright loops or strands of yarn.

Weaving

 A pile weave is made on a loom, like most types of weaves are made. The difference is that loops are created.  These loops can either be left uncut, like in towels, or can be cut to uniform lengths, like in velvet fabric.  Types of fabrics created using a pile weave include Velvet, Corduroy, Terrycloth, and Velveteen

Weaving Assignment

 Using construction paper cut into strips about 1 inches x 11 inches you should recreate:  plain weave  twill weave  satin weave  On the back of each weave:  list the advantages  list disadvantages  3 examples of weave

3 Turning Yarn into Fabric

 Knitting: the process of pulling loops of yarns through other loops to create interlocking rows of stitches

Wales – yarns that run in the lengthwise direction , like a warp yarns in woven fabrics

Courses – yarns that run in the crosswise direction, like the weft yarns in woven fabrics

Knitting

 Weft Knit: a knit made with only one yarn  Types of weft knits include:  Jersey knits – most common type, curls at edges, used for t-shirts, sweaters and tights/hosiery  Rib knits – have vertical “ribs” (columns of stitches), used for neck, wrist and bottom bands of sweatshirts & jackets  Double knits – two yarns and two needles are used resulting in heavier, sturdier knits that don’t run or ravel  Characteristics include:  Two-way stretch in both lengthwise & crosswise directions  Can get lengthwise “runs” from broken threads  Made on either flat or circular knitting machines

Knitting Jersey Knits

4 Knitting Rib Knits

Knitting

Double Knits

Knitting

 Warp knit: a knit made with several yarns on flat knitting machines. Multiple yarns are looped together to produce a run- resistant knitted fabric.  Tricot knits – stable knits that lie flat and don’t run or ravel, made on very fast tricot knitting machines, used for lingerie, underwear and uniforms

 Raschel knits – an extra yarn is used to create a patterned design in these knits, used for lacy knits, thermal underwear and bathing suits

5 Knitting

Tricot knits

Knitting

Raschel knits

Knitting

 Seamless knitting involves the production of a whole garment in one piece on a knitting machine so that little or no sewing is required.

6 Nonwoven Fabrics

 Made from fibers, not yarns  Fibers are held together by a combination of moisture, heat, chemicals and/or pressure.  No grain line  Limited stretch  Inexpensive  Often disposal

Nonwoven Fabrics

 Uses include:  Interfacings  Batting for quilts  Felt  Disposable products  Medical products

Fiber Information

Fiber Name ______

Sample of Fiber Suggested End Uses of Fiber

Answer the following questions about the fiber.

1. Circle the following classification that describes the fiber.

Natural ( cellulosic or protein) Specialty fiber Manufactured ( cellulosic or non-cellulosic)

2. List the source of the fiber. ______

Describe the following characteristics about the fiber.

3. Abrasion Resistance 4. Absorbency 5. Durability 6. Elasticity 7. Resiliency 8. Strength 9. Warmth 10.Wicking Ability

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

Fiber Construction Project Rubric

Fabric Description Common Advantages Disadvantages Picture Suggested Other Weave Construction (2 pts.) fabrics (1 pt.) (1 pt.) (1 pt.) Garments definitive Sample Method (1 pt.) (1 pt.) fabric traits (2 pts. each) (1 pt.) Plain weave N/A

Twill weave

Satin weave

Pile weave

Weft knit N/A Warp knit N/A Seamless knit N/A N/A

Bonded fabric N/A Fleece N/A N/A

Other nonwoven N/A fabric Quilted fabric N/A N/A

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015 Fiber Construction Project Rubric

Additional Project Below-Average Effort Average Effort Above-Average Effort Components (1 pt. each) (2 pts. each) (3 pts. each) Project contains correct spelling, grammar, terminology and punctuation Project design is creative, neat, organized and is easy to understand Student demonstrated effective time management skills and displayed an appropriate work ethic during project development

Teacher Comments:

Total Points:

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015 2.02 COURSE FA31 – Apparel and Textile Production I

ESSENTIAL 2.00 B2 20% Understand textiles. STANDARD OBJECTIVE 2.02 B2 5% Understand care of textile products. 1. What is the correct laundry care technique for different types of fabrics? ESSENTIAL 2. What types of laundry products are available? QUESTIONS 3. What are the environmental concerns of laundry products? 4. What type of information is found on a care label?

UNPACKED CONTENT A. Products, processes, and environmental concerns 1. Care techniques a. Sorting b. Pretreating c. Machine Washing d. Hand Washing e. Drying Clothes f. Ironing and pressing 2. Laundry detergents a. All- purpose detergents b. Ultra detergents c. Combination detergents d. Fragrance and dye free detergents e. Light-duty detergents f. HE (high- efficiency) detergents 3. Soil and stain removers a. Prewash soil –and- stain removers b. Enzyme presoaks 4. Laundry bleaches a. Chlorine bleach b. Non-chlorine Bleach 5. Other Laundry Products a. Fabric Softeners b. Starches c. Water softeners d. Disinfectants B. Permanent Care Labeling Rule 6. Fiber Content 7. Percentage of fiber by weight 8. Identification of manufacturer 9. Country of origin 10. Care instructions/Symbol

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INSTRUCTIONAL ACTIVITIES 2.00 Understand Textiles 2.02 Care of Textile Products A. Products, processes, and environmental concerns Portfolio Option: Throughout this curriculum we offer a portfolio option. Look for this ╬ icon throughout the curriculum. This is an opportunity for your students to collect their work throughout the class. Key Terms Pretreatment Pressing Ironing Dry cleaning Care labels Tumble dry Line dry Flat dry Alteration Prewash stain remover Enzyme presoak Ultra detergent High efficiency detergent Combination detergent Light duty detergent Chlorine bleach Non chlorine bleach Fabric softener Starch Water softener Disinfectant Colorfast 1.  Ask the students if they buy their own clothes.  Ask the students if they read the labels when making a buying decision.  Continue the discussion by asking what to look for when buying their clothes and how important it is to them whether the apparel needs to be dry cleaned or washed.  Tell the students that the purpose of today’s learning opportunity is to understand general principles of caring for textile products.  Divide class into groups and each group will take 3 or 4 terms and research those terms and report back to the class on the definition of each, using the following link as a supplemental resource: Clothing Care Vocabulary Sheet  Knowledge of terms will be assessed by the teacher instructing students to create a note sheet that includes three columns- 1. Term, 2. Definition, 3. Example, in order for students to classify the above terms

╬ Portfolio Option This activity may be added to the student portfolio Instructional Resources Computers Website- resources4us.wikispaces.com/file/view/Clothing Care Vocabulary.doc Available textbooks Sample garments with care labels

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A. Products, processes, and environmental concerns 2.  Students access the Laundry Essentials Information Sheet located at  Tell the students that the handout is a complete guide to caring for clothes that will be laundered.  Have students complete the Laundry Essentials activity sheet on pages 6-7.

Instructional Resources Website- textileaffairs.com "Laundry Essentials" information sheet "Laundry Essentials" activity sheet 3.  Have students complete “Building Laundry Skills” activity found on page 8 at http://www.textileaffairs.com/docs/laundrycurriculum.pdf  The teacher will explain that they need to help with the laundry and then have a parent/guardian sign in the space indicated on the Building Skills Activity Sheet, that they completed the assignment.  Point out that all the steps need not be done. If they don’t iron clothes, simply write that down. Set a due date and have them write it down on the paper.

Instructional Resources Website – textilesaffairs.com "Building Laundry Skills" activity sheet Access to laundry equipment for homework assignment

Industry Connection Have students briefly research innovations in the area of laundry equipment.

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2.02 Care of Textile Products B. Permanent Care Labeling Rule Key Term Permanent Care Rule 1.  Students will complete an activity that teaches them the use of clothing care symbols.  The teacher will ask the students to examine the ”Consumer Guide to Care Symbols” chart located on page 11 using this link.  The teacher will ask if they can locate any patterns. Review each process beginning with washing. o What is the basic symbol? o How are the permanent press and gentle cycle represented? o Are the single-bar and double-bar symbols used anywhere else on the chart? o Compare the temperature symbols through the washing, drying, and ironing processes.  The teacher will ask the students to identify patterns in the symbol system. Have them summarize those found: o temperature/heat settings: hot/high – three dots, warm/medium – two dots, cold/low - one dot; o cycle settings: normal cycle - no bar, permanent press cycle - one bar, gentle or delicate cycle –two bars; o warning: “X”– do not; o a milder process: add two diagonal bars for non-chlorine bleach or shade dry; o the order of the symbols follow consumer practice: washing, bleaching, drying, ironing, and dry cleaning. o Students will then create their own chart of illustrations of clothing care symbols and their meanings.

Portfolio Option This activity can be added to the student portfolio

Instructional Resources Computers Website – textileaffairs.com Available textbooks "Consumer Guide to Care Symbols" Unlined white paper Colored pencils

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B. Permanent Care Labeling Rule 2.  Students will use pre-stained cloth and laundry products to remove stains.  Tell students they will be analyzing the use and effectiveness of products.  You will access the lesson instructions here.  Use this link to access the laboratory experiment which students will perform.

Instructional Resources Computers Websites – NY Times Learning Blog Scraps of white T-shirt cloth Access to a source of water Medium-sized glass or plastic containers Variety of laundry detergents (including “environmentally friendly” and “high efficiency”) Items to stain cloth, like ketchup, chocolate sauce, soda, jelly, cooking oil, fruit juice.

FCCLA Connection Students will develop a project involving laundry products in the Environmental Ambassador event following guideline found here Key Terms Textile Fibers Products Identification Act Fiber content Country of Origin 3.  Students will produce an example of a clothing care label by completing the project Clothing Care Label Project in the curriculum and also located under the textiles section here.  Use this link as a student reference for the care symbols.

╬ Portfolio Option This activity can be added to the student portfolio

Instructional Resources Websites- education.ne.gov/HSE/Teacher%20to%20Teacher%20Information.html textileaffairs.com Enough pieces of hanging string for each student’s tag Card stock Colored pencils

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APPAREL AND TEXTILE PRODUCTION I

LAUNDRY CARE SYMBOL ACTIVITY

NAME: ______

When you purchase clothing, there are two places you can look to get information about the garment:

1. The garment hang tag, which may be attached to but hanging loose on the garment or tied around a button, etc.

2. The garment care tag, which may be found sewn at the back of the neck or into the waistband, or sewn into a seam.

A garment hang tag or the smaller care tag inside the clothing can give a variety of information about a specific piece of clothing. They may be colorful with eye- catching designs, and include:

A. The manufacturer/company name B. Company logo C. Garment size D. Fiber content E. Garment care instructions F. Retail price G. Origin H. Laundry care symbols

Example of care instructions, fiber content, size, and origin:

Machine wash using mild soap in warm water. Wash dark colors separately. Do not bleach. Tumble dry, low. No ironing. 55% Cotton 45% Rayon XL Made in Sri Lanka

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

LAUNDRY CARE SYMBOL ACTIVITY

DIRECTIONS:

Create an original garment hangtag, complete with hanging string, approximately 3x5”. You must include all the types of information, listed from A – H above, on your tag. Be neat, creative, and inventive! Use the Laundry Care Symbol sheet to help you select appropriate symbols.

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

Apparel and Textile Production I

Clothing Care Vocabulary Activity

1. pretreatment – any special attention you give a garment before laundering

2. pressing – the process of lifting and lowering the iron onto areas of the fabric

3. ironing – moving the iron back and forth over the fabric

4. dry clean – to clean using chemicals rather than with water and detergent

5. care labels – labels in garments that tell you how to properly care for the garments

6. stains – a spot or discoloration on a garment

7. sorting – grouping clothing into piles according to how you will launder them

8. tumble drying – drying clothes in an automatic dryer

9. line drying – hanging up washed clothes (usually on a clothesline) to dry

10. flat drying – drying a washed garment by first rolling the garment in a towel and pressing the water out, then laying the garment out flat on a clean, dry surface

11. snag – a loop or yarn pulled out of a fabric

12. alteration – a change made in a garment so that it will fit properly

13. detergents – job is to remove dirt from fabrics

14. bleach – product used with detergents to remove stains, whiten, and brighten 100% cotton fabrics

15. fabric softeners – (can be liquid and used in the washing machine or dry sheets used in the dryer) reduce static, make fabrics softer, and reduce wrinkling

16. bleeding colors – a color that releases some of its dye onto other fabrics (causes fading of garments)

17. colorfast – having colors that will not bleed or fade

18. soleplate – the bottom of your iron (the flat, hot part)

19. mend – repair

20. mildew – a fungus that grows on damp fabrics, causing stains

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

3.01

COURSE FA31 – Apparel and Textile Production I ESSENTIAL 3.00 B2 53% Understand apparel engineering. STANDARD Understand body measurements, sizing, OBJECTIVE 3.01 B2 18% and patterns. 1. Which body measurements are used to construct men’s apparel? 2. Which body measurements are used to construct women’s apparel? 3. What is the correct technique for taking body measurements? ESSENTIAL 4. How are body measurements used to determine a pattern size? QUESTIONS 5. What are the indicators of proper garment fit? 6. What are the parts of the pattern? 7. What are the pattern symbols and how are they used in garment construction? 8. What are the sections of a guide sheet and how are they used?

UNPACKED CONTENT

A. Evaluating Proper Fit 1. Body Measurements a. Male: Chest, Waist, Inseam, Hips, Neck band, and arm length b. Female: Back Waist Length, Bust, Waist, and Hips c. Determine Pattern Size 2. Indicators of Proper Fit a. Shirts and blouses b. Jackets and suits c. Jeans and slacks d. Dresses and skirts B. Patterns 1. Pattern Envelope a. Photo b. Pattern Number # c. Cost d. Sizes Available e. Suggested Fabrics f. Notions g. Yardage h. Measurements /size i. Sketch 2. Pattern Symbols a. Grain line b. Cutting Line

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c. Dot/Notch/Square d. Place on Fold e. Dart-stitch and fold f. Adjustment line 3. Guide-sheet a. View Selections b. Pattern Pieces to Use c. Cutting Layouts d. Folds/selvages e. Pin/Cut/Mark

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INSTRUCTIONAL ACTIVITIES 3.00 Understand apparel engineering 3.01 Understand body measurements, sizing and patterns A. Evaluating Proper Fit Portfolio Option: Throughout this curriculum we offer a portfolio option. Look for this ╬ icon throughout the curriculum. This is an opportunity for your students to collect their work throughout the class. Key Terms Body measurements Multi-sized Patterns Standard Sizes Wearing Ease Unisex Patterns Design Ease 1.  Have the students define the key terms above using one of the three activities provided. 1. Define the Key terms using the Key Terms Activity 2. The teacher will create a Prezi for the students to access. The teacher will assign a Key Term to grouped students. The student groups will define the Key Term and answer the following questions: o What is it? o Why is it important? o What does it tell us? o How do we use? The groups will enter the appropriate Key Term on the Prezi. The students will use the Key Terms Activity to key information. 3. Technology Connection: Have the students define the terms and create flash cards using a flashcard generator such as Quizlet or Studyblue. Instructional Resources Prezi website: http://prezi.com/ Key Terms Activity handout Quizlet Website: http://quizlet.com/ Studyblue Website: http://www.studyblue.com/ 2.  Identify and demonstrate the use of measuring tools.  The teacher may assess prior student knowledge in measuring by administration of a pretest worksheet. Remediation may be employed in collaboration with the Math Department if necessary.  Using information from this PDF. Students will learn to identify measuring tools and how to use them. Have the students complete Measuring Tools Activity.  The students will participate in a measuring lab to demonstrate measuring skills. The teacher will set up stations in the classroom for students to demonstrate accurate measuring and the correct measuring tool selection. Students could measure fabric, trims, hems, etc.

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A. Evaluating Proper Fit 3.  Assign the students a body measurement to research and learn the correct procedure for taking the measurement. The students will demonstrate the correct procedures for each measurement for class. The teacher will be the facilitator and assist students for accuracy.  Allow students to choose a partner to practice body measurement techniques.  When students are proficient in techniques, allow students to take the body measurements of their partner. Record the measurements on My Personal Body Measurements Activity. 4.  Select pattern size according to measurements taken. The students will take guided notes using the handout Evaluating Fit PPT Guided Notes to accompany 3.01 Evaluating Fit PPT to determine pattern size. The PPT also reviews all 3.01 facts.  Apparel Industry Connection: Have students research the measurements needed to order a Prom Dress and a Tuxedo from an online site. Have students create a customer measurement chart for a formal wear business.  Technology Connection: Have the students create a video demonstrating the proper techniques for taking body measurements. Collaboration with the Theatre Arts Department for actors and Visual Arts videographers may improve the quality of the final product. The Apparel students would write the script and teach the actors the correct technique to be filmed.

Career Connection A sewing professional or tailor may be invited for career interest and perform a final check up on body measurements for accuracy.

FCCLA Connection Refer to the FCCLA Star Event for Recycle and Redesign competitive event. 5.  How do professionals judge proper fit? View Episode #1 of “The Great Britain Sewing Bee” from YouTube. Have the students create a graphic organizer with 8 components for each contestant on the sewing competition “The Great Britain Sewing Bee”: Ann, Jane, Lauren, Mark, Michelle, Sandra, Stuart, and Tilly. Include the following information for each contestant: garment design they selected to construct, challenges the contestants encountered, and the professional evaluation comments. Discuss the results at the conclusion of the viewing.  To understand the key factors to test for fitness, have the students complete one of the two activities provided. 1. Research and create an informational brochure employers may present to new employees to help determine a quality fit for customers. 2. Research and create an informational brochure employers may present to new employees to help determine a quality fit for customers for shirts and blouses, jackets and suits, jeans and slacks, dresses and skirts.

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A. Evaluating Proper Fit Career Connection The class will compile an Employee Flipchart including important information an employee may need to learn and know to work in an Apparel Business.

Instructional Resources The Great British Sewing Bee Episode #1 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DI0rLz40wgE Liddell, Louise A. Clothes and Your Appearance. South Holland, IL: Goodheart- Willcox, 2008. Print

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3.01 Understand body measurements, sizing and patterns B. Patterns Key Terms Pattern Catalogs (how to shop from one and locate in store, as well as online catalog options) Pattern Companies (options available) Photos on front Pattern Number Cost Size Availability Suggested Fabrics (including knits, nap and one way designs) Notions Yardage Chart Measurements/Size necessary (especially XS – XL) Sketch details 1.  Have students define the key terms above. Additionally, have them take notes on: o What is it? o Why is it important? o What does it tell us? o How do we use it?  Technology Connection: Have the students define the terms and create flash cards using a flashcard generator such as Quizlet or Studyblue. 2.  Discuss the importance of each part of the pattern envelope.  Examples of pattern envelopes can be found in the Simplicity Teaching Kit, McCalls Sew Cool for Schools, or online at the respective websites.  Distribute an example of a Pattern Envelope and have students label each section of the envelope and list what information is found there.

3.  Students will create a sketch on a croquis of an outfit that you would wear.  Students will refer to information gained in objective 1.02 – Elements and Principles and apply that information as they create their design.  Include front and back view of your garment.  Croquis Activity handout is available in Instructional Activities.

4.  Using sketch created on the croquis, students will design their own pattern envelope.  Each envelope should include the front and back information.  Students will include a description, suggested fabrics, Measurement tables, and notions. Yardage information will not be accurate, but should be included on back.

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B. Patterns 5.  Students will look at a Pattern Catalog to locate a purchased pattern that they may like to construct. Have students explore and discuss the following questions to determine if that particular pattern would be acceptable. o Size availability – what sizes are available for that particular pattern? o What size they should use – based on their measurements, what size are they using? o Does that pattern come in the size they need? o Which view they are going to make? o What type of fabric would you like to use? o Which fabric type is suggested? o Is this fabric easy/hard to use? o How much fabric is required? o Notions needed? o How many pattern pieces are there - Is it too difficult/too easy for my skill level?  Teachers may use the Teaching Packet from Simplicity, Sew Cool for Schools online or use a variety of purchased patterns you may have for students to evaluate.

Key Terms Grain Line Notch/Dot/Square Cutting Line Place on Fold Dart (Stitch and Fold) Adjustment Line 6.  Have students define the key terms above. Additionally, have them take notes on: o What is it? o What is the symbol? o Why is it important? o What does it tell us? o How do we use it? o Technology Connection: Have the students define the terms and create flash cards using a flashcard generator such as Quizlet or Studyblue.

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B. Patterns Instructional Resources Pattern Symbols Understanding Pattern Markings Pattern Symbols II Stitch Sharer Learning about Patterns 7.  Distribute an example of a pattern piece and have students label each symbol. Symbols Activity is available in Instructional Activities.  Discuss the importance of each symbol.  Include how a multi-sized pattern looks and how cutting and sewing lines are addressed. 8.  Discuss other information that is found on a pattern piece. o Pattern Company Name o Pattern Number o Size o Pattern Piece Name o Number of each piece to cut Key Terms Cutting layout Preshrink Crosswise fold Lengthwise fold Double Fold Bias Grain Fabric Widths Pattern Placement View Selections 9.  Have students define the key terms above. Additionally, have them take notes on: o What is it? o Why is it important? o What does it tell us? o How do we use it?  Technology Connection: Have the students define the terms and create flash cards using a flashcard generator such as Quizlet or Studyblue. 10.  Discuss the importance of each part of the guide sheet.  Distribute an example of a Pattern Guide Sheet and have students locate each section or information as it is discussed. o Sketch of Front o Sketch of Pattern Pieces o Cutting Layouts o “Use Pieces . . . .” o Width/Nap Variations o Special Situations for Linings and Contrasting Fabrics o Necessary Folds

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B. Patterns  Choose a Guide Sheet of your preference.  Teacher may use Understanding The Guide Sheet and Symbols PPT to introduce as notes or use as review. This is located in Instructional Activities.

Instructional Resources The Pattern Tissue 11.  Students create a project using a purchased pattern.  Students will complete personal body measurements to determine size needed.  Students will prepare pattern, purchase fabric and prepare it for cutting.  Students will locate specific information important to their project on the pattern guide sheet.  Students will cut out the appropriate pattern pieces for the size necessary and their selected view.  Students will refer to the Layout Chart on the guide sheet and layout pattern pieces onto fabric and pin in place.  Students will cut out fabric, including notches and other symbols necessary. Reinforce the need to keep pattern pieces pinned to fabric until all marking is completed and piece is ready to use.  Review marking techniques – tracing wheel and paper, marking pencil and chalk. Assist students in marking their fabric pieces in the method of their choice.  Students will construct their project using skills gained in class.

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Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

Apparel and Textile Production I

3.01 Evaluating Fit PPT Guided Notes Activity

1. What are body measurements?

2. What should you be wearing for taking body measurements?

3. Who should take your body measurements?

4. What are characteristics of a measuring tape?

5. How should a measuring tape be held while taking body measurements?

6. How should the following Women’s measurements be taken:  Bust  Waist  Hips  Back Waist Length 7. How should the following Men’s measurements be taken:  Chest  Waist  Inseam  Hips  Neck Band  Arm Length 8. How can I find my pattern size?

9. Women:  Measurement to determine dress and top pattern size:  Measurement to determine shorts and pants size

10. Men:

 Measurement to determine jacket size:  Measurements to determine dress shirt size:  Measurement to determine pants size:

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

3.01 Evaluating Fit PPT Guided Notes Activity

11. Are pattern sizes the same or different between the pattern companies?

12. What is the common sizing between pattern companies called?

13 How do pattern sizes relate to clothing in the Apparel Industry?

14 When your measurements fall between sizes, which pattern size do I select?

15. What is a Multi-sized Pattern?

16. What is a Unisex Pattern?

17. How do you select your size from a Unisex Pattern?

18. Wearing ease is:

19. Design ease is:

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

Key 3.01 Guided Notes for PPT Activity

Answer Key

1. What are body measurements? The exact dimensions of a body 2. What should you be wearing for taking body measurements? Undergarments or very thin clothing 3. Who should take your body measurements? For accurate measuring, a partner 4. What are characteristics of a measuring tape? Flexible, non-stretchable, plastic, 60 inches long 5. How should a measuring tape be held while taking body measurements? Snug, not tight 6. How should the following Women’s measurements be taken:  Bust: at the fullest part  Waist: at the smallest part of the waistline (natural waistline)  Hips: at the widest part  Back Waist Length: from the prominent bone at the base of the next to the natural waistline 7. How should the following Men’s measurements be taken:  Chest: at the fullest part  Waist: at the smallest part  Inseam: from the undersize of the crotch to desired hem length  Hips: at the widest part  Neck Band: measurement around the base of the neck plus ½”  Arm Length: from the prominent bone at the base of the neck around a slightly bent elbow to the wrist bone 8. How can I find my pattern size? Compare your measurement to a size chart in the textbook, on a pattern or in a pattern catalog 9. Women:  Measurement to determine dress and top pattern size: Bust  Measurement to determine shorts and pants size: Waist 10. Men:  Measurement to determine jacket size: Chest  Measurements to determine dress shirt size: Neck band and sleeve length  Measurement to determine pants size: Waist 11. Are pattern sizes the same or different between the pattern companies? They are standardized or the same from one pattern company to another

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

Key 3.01 Guided Notes for PPT Activity

Answer Key

12. What is the common sizing between pattern companies called? Standard sizing 13. How do pattern sizes relate to clothing in the Apparel Industry? No relation 14. When your measurements fall between sizes, which pattern size do I select? Consider the design, if the design is loose fitting select the smaller size, if the design is close fitting select the larger size

15. What is a Multi-sized Pattern? Several sizes are printed on each pattern piece 16. What is a Unisex Pattern? A pattern including pattern pieces for Men and Women 17. How do you select your size from a Unisex Pattern? Choose from the pattern envelop size chart 18. Wearing ease is: Extra fullness built in for ease and comfort 19. Design ease is: Extra fullness built in for a particular silhouette

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015 6/18/2015

3.01 Evaluating Fit Apparel & Design Production I

 Body Measurements  Measuring Tools  Specific Measurements  Determine Size  Specialty Patterns  Wearing and Design Ease

Take Body Measurements

 What are body measurements?

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Take Body Measurements

 What should you be wearing to take body measurements?

Take Body Measurements

 Should you take your own measurements or should you have a partner take your body measurements?

Take Body Measurements: Tool  Which measuring tool should be used to take body measurements?

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Take Body Measurements: Tool

 How should the measuring tape be held?

Techniques to Take Body Measurements for Women

 Bust: at the fullest part  Waist: natural waist  Hips: at the fullest part  Back Waist Length: prominent bone at the back of the neck to the waist

Techniques to Take Body Measurements for Men

 Chest: at the fullest part  Waist: Smallest part of the waistline  Inseam: From the underside of the crotch to desired hem length  Hips: at the fullest part  Neck band: Measurement around the base of the neck + ½”  Arm length: from the prominent bone a the base of the neck along the back of a slightly bent elbow to the wrist bone

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Determine Pattern Size

 How can I find my pattern size?

Determine Patten Size

 Women: Bust size is the determining measurement for dresses and tops  Women: Hip size is the determining measurement for shorts and pants  Men: Chest size for jackets and tops  Men: Neck band and sleeve length fro dress shirts  Men: Waist for pants and shorts

Determine Pattern Size

 How will my pattern size from one company compare to patterns from other companies?

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Determine Pattern Size

 If I already know what size clothing I purchase, why do I need to know my pattern size.

Determine Pattern Size

 If you fall between sizes: consider design  If design is loose-select smaller size  If design is close fitting-select larger size

Specialty Patterns: Multi-sized

 What might be included in a multi-sized pattern

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Specialty Patterns: Unisex

 What might be included in a Unisex Pattern?  How would you select your pattern size?

Wearing Ease

 Do patterns fit your body measurements exactly

Design Ease

 Extra fullness added by the designer to create a particular silhouette

Apparel and Textile Production I

3.01 Key Terms Activity

Term What is it? Why is it What does it How do we use important? tell us? it?

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

Apparel and Textile Production I

3.01 Measuring Tools Activity

Directions: Identify each measuring tool and describe the uses for the tool

Tool Name Use

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

Apparel and Textile Production I

3.01 My Personal Body Measurements Activity

Name______

Women’s: Bust, Waist, Hips, and Back Waist Length

Draw where measurement is taken and record measurements.

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

3.01 My Personal Body Measurements Activity

Name______

Men: Chest, waist, inseam, hips, neck band, and arm length

Draw where measurement is taken and record measurements.

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015 Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

6/18/2015

Understanding Guide Sheet

Grain Line

 Indicates the placement of pattern piece on the fabric grain. Grain line must be placed exactly parallel to the selvage.  Selvage is the fabric edge that will not ravel or fray.  Use tape measure to make sure grain line is parallel to selvage when pinning pattern in place.

Place on fold/Fold line

 Double arrowed bracket symbol that indicates the solid line be placed on the fold of the fabric.  Usually seen at center front or back.

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Dots, Squares, or Triangles

 Used to match fabric pieces together – show us what to sew together and where.  They are especially helpful in areas requiring easing like sleeves.  May be within garment piece to indicate placement of details like pockets or zippers.

Notches

 Used for matching seams and joining garment pieces.  Should extend beyond the cutting line.

Cut

Garment

Double & Triple Notches

 Cut them as one long block

Cut

Garment

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 On multi-sized patterns the notches often appear as triangles.  These notches should be cut out and away or with tiny snips to indicate where the notches are located.

Stitching line

 Broken line usually 5/8” from cutting line.  Indicates where to stitch fabric pieces together . Seam allowance – distance between stitching line and cutting line. . “Stitch” on the guide sheet means the standard seam allowance of 5/8”. If it is another seam allowance it will tell you. . Will not be indicated on multi-sized patterns.

Seam allowance

Darts

 Triangular folds of fabric used to control fullness.  Fold on the solid line, stitch on the broken lines.

Stitching Line Fold Line

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Adjustment lines

 Indicates where pattern can be lengthened or shortened.

Shorten or lengthen here

Additional Information

 On each pattern piece you will find:  Number of pieces to cut  Pattern piece name/number or letter  Size

Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book

Guide Sheet

Gives you step-by-step information for cutting, marking, and sewing the fabric pieces together. Main sections of the guide sheet are view selection, cutting layouts and sewing instructions. In the cutting layout section, you will find the “Use pieces” information to determine which pattern pieces go with which view to be constructed. Also included are sketches and special information.

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Special instructions

Sketch of garment Pieces to use for Each design

Cutting Layout Sketch of Pattern pieces

Select your layout diagram based on the view you are making, your fabric width, fabric type, and size.

Circle the layout for

Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book easy reference.

Fabric Grains

Selvage – two finished edges, do not ravel or fray

Lengthwise grain – runs in the same direction as the selvage, strongest threads.

Crosswise grain – runs across fabric from one selvage to the other, usually has slight stretch.

Bias – runs diagonally across the fabric. Has the most stretch.

Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book

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Fabric Folds

Lengthwise fold

 Fold fabric in half lengthwise with right sides together.  As fabric comes off bolt at store  Fold should form cut/raw edge to cut/raw edge.  “Hot Dog Fold”

Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book

Crosswise Fold

Fold fabric in half crosswise with right sides together.

Fold should be from selvage to selvage.

“Hamburger Fold”

Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book

Center/Double Fold

Fold fabric twice along the lengthwise grain, right sides together.

Selvages should meet in the middle

Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book

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Partial Fold

Fold fabric on the lengthwise grain, right sides together, only wide enough to fit the widest pattern piece that is to be placed on fold.

Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book

Placement of Pattern Pieces

Place the pieces on the fold or the largest pattern pieces on first. Place all pattern pieces on fabric before pinning any to fabric. Refer to pattern piece for number of fabric pieces to cut. Follow layout diagram exactly to maximize fabric use. When a pattern piece is shaded, that indicates it should be placed printed side down.

Simplicity Pattern

Placement of Pattern Pieces

Pattern pieces should be pinned perpendicular to the cutting edge every 6” – 8”. More pins may be required in curved areas. Cut out pieces using long, smooth strokes to avoid jagged edges. Leave pattern pieces attached to fabric until ready to sew. Transfer dots/squares and dart markings using the marking method of your choice.

Simplicity Pattern

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Sewing instructions

Follow the sequence exactly Read the written directions. Review the pictorial directions. Refer to the special sewing information.

Simplicity Pattern

8 3.02

COURSE FA31 – Apparel and Textile Production I ESSENTIAL 3.00 B2 53% Understand apparel engineering. STANDARD OBJECTIVE 3.02 A1 10% Understand tools and equipment

1. What are the categories of small sewing tools and their use? ESSENTIAL 2. What are the parts of a sewing machine and their functions? QUESTIONS 3. What are the parts of a serger and their functions?

UNPACKED CONTENT

A. Apparel Construction Tools and Equipment 1. Tools a. Measuring b. Pinning c. Cutting d. Marking e. Stitching f. Pressing

2. Equipment a. Sewing machine b. Serger

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INSTRUCTIONAL ACTIVITIES 3.00 Understand apparel engineering 3.02 Understand tools and equipment A. Tools Portfolio Option: Throughout this curriculum we offer a portfolio option. Look for this ╬ icon throughout the curriculum. This is an opportunity for your students to collect their work throughout the class. 1.  Show the Small Sewing Equipment PowerPoint and complete the Small Sewing Equipment Key Terms Activity Sheet prior to the “Wheel of Equipment” activity.

Wheel of Equipment  Have students work in groups of 3-4, to create a game board for their game “Wheel of Equipment” Give each student round cake boards (or cardboard circles) and have them divide the round into six to eight sections.  Cut out five paper triangles &, label each color with the six equipment categories. (Measuring, Pinning, Cutting, Marking, Stitching & Pressing ) Give each category a $ value such as $300, $500 etc.  Place triangles around circle. Fill in the remainder of the board with triangles (new colors) that have Lose a Turn, Free Spin, neighbor to right, lose a turn and Bankrupt.  Make an arrow out of cardstock or construction paper and attach to center of cake round with a paper fastener to allow the arrow to spin around board. If students have other ideas for the spinner encourage them to incorporate their design into their (group) game board.  Use the equipment list in Instructional Resources and have students make key term game cards for game board. Cards should have the category on the front of the game card and key term and purpose on reverse. Color code cards to reflect proper category. Place games cards in five stacks to use during the game.  Once wheel and cards are complete, play a round of “Wheel of Equipment.”

Category: Key Term:

Pressing Iron

Use: Press Garments

Game Instructions  When groups complete their game board, have them make their own rules for the game or follow rules below.  When groups complete their game board, have them make their own rules for the game or follow rules below.

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015 Page 38

A. Tools Rules  For whole class game, divide class into five groups. First group spins the wheel and draws a card from the corresponding color/category as the triangle on the wheel. If the group identifies the equipment and gives the correct purpose, they receive the points for the turn. Continue playing until all cards are drawn. Follow directions on wheel such as lose a turn, etc. Group with the highest point value wins.  Students can be creative and opt to create a virtual wheel of fortune board. Consider using this activity as a semester project for each unit where students add work for review. Students can refer to resources below for virtual ideas and resources.

Instructional Resources Round cardboard cake rounds or recycled cardboard cut into rounds, construction paper, scissors, rubber cement/glue sticks, equipment list. Optional Nasco dry erase spin board to use for unit review. For each unit change equipment, or vocabulary words. Collaborate with carpentry class to construct a permanent wheel for classroom use. Equipment list Computer/projector Use this link to develop PowerPoint games for class review as another option for vocabulary or test review. Key Terms Bobbin Bobbin case Bobbin cover or slide plate Feed dog or feed Foot or knee control Hand wheel Hand-wheel knob Needle Needle clamp Power and light switch Presser foot Presser foot lifter Reverse button Spool pins Bobbin winder Stitch-length control Take-up lever Tension control Thread guides Throat or needle plate

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015 Page 39

A. Tools 2.  The teacher will demonstrate the parts of the sewing machine and its function. Key terms listed above.  Handout sewing machine diagram (see information in instructional resources below).  Have students label the parts of the machine and describe the function of each part using the textbook as a resource.

Instructional Resources Sewing machine Document Camera and Projector Sewing machine handout-“Identifying Parts of a Sewing Machine”, Clothing: Fashion, Fabrics & Construction Textbook Resource Book titled, “Sewing & Serging Techniques”, page 9. Fashion, Fabrics & Construction Textbook OR

 In small groups, have students create a video demonstrating the parts and function of the sewing machine using software to edit the video such as Movie Maker. Post on a class wiki or Google docs for peer review.

Instructional Resources Video camera, Smartphone (If permitted) Computer Video editing software Sewing machine Apparel Textbook – Clothing: Fashion, Fabrics, and Construction

 Demonstrate how to operate the sewing machine.  Teacher demonstrates how to operate the sewing machine while discussing safety tips.  In small groups, have students read online article about sewing machine safety tips at the following link: http://www.craftsy.com/article/sewing- machine-safety-tips. Have groups create a word document on safety tips for operating the sewing machine.  Have students practice winding a bobbin, threading machine and then complete Four Squares Sewing activity to practice sewing different stitch lengths and widths.  Have students practice sewing curves and corners with the activity “Sew Around the Silhouette.”  Have students practice sewing skills by having them complete small sewing projects. Example could include, Small Drawstring Bag Activity. See Sewing Project Resource List for other suggested ideas.

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015 Page 40

A. Tools Instructional Resources Computer Sewing machine Small sewing equipment o bobbins, dressmaker scissors, various marking tools, rotary cutters and mats, seam gauges, and seam rippers Other supplies: fabric and thread Small Drawstring Bag activity Sewing Project Resource List Four Squares Sewing activity Sew Around the Silhouette activity

╬ Portfolio Option  Have students research and create a chart on selecting different needles, thread, and stitch lengths for various fabrics. Reference chart in the textbook, Clothing: Fashion, Fabrics, and Construction.  Have students create a chart on how to solve common sewing machine problems.

Industry Connection Have students research the use of embroidery machines and their implications in the development of a small business.

Common Core Connection In small groups, have students research the historical background of the sewing machine. Then, have students create a timeline of the events leading to today’s electronic sewing machines.

Helpful Links Time Toast Virtual Sewing

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3.02 Understand tools and equipment B. Equipment Key Terms Front cover Hand wheel Power switch Pressure control regulator Side cover Spool base Spool pin Tension controls Thread cone Thread guide pole Chaining off 3.  Demonstrate the parts of the serger and its function. Refer to a User Manual for a serger in your classroom, or locate one online.  Have students create a Venn Diagram comparing the sewing machine and serger.  Suggested websites for electronic versions: o Venn Diagram o Venn Diagram II o Venn Diagram III

Instructional Resources Computer Serger, document camera, and projector Clothing: Fashion, Fabrics & Construction Textbook resource book titled – “Sewing & Serging Techniques”, page 10.

4.  Demonstrate the use and safety of the serger.  Teacher demonstrates how to operate the serger while discussing safety tips.  In small groups, have students practice threading the serger. Have students practice operating the serger by completing small serging projects. Example could include the Customizable Wristlet for an IPod, Cellphone, or Camera, see example in Instructional Resources folder.  Have students create a chart on correcting serging problems.

Instructional Resources Computer Serger, thread, seam ripper, serger tweezers, and seam sealant Customizable Wristlet for an IPod, Cellphone, or Camera activity

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015 Page 42

Apparel and Textile Production I

3.02 Customizable Wristlet for an Ipod, Cellphone, or Camera Activity

Materials Needed:

1 piece of medium-weight cotton fabric for the outer body of the wristlet (13 inches by 4 ¾ inches)

1 piece of medium-weight cotton fabric for the lining (10 ½ inches by 4 ¾ inches)

1 piece of fusible fleece or batting (13 inches by 4 ¾ inches)

1 piece of ribbon (11inches by ½ inch)

Thread to match

Special Note: Some cell phones may be larger than this finished case. You may want to measure and readjust to customize your wristlet.

Directions:

1. Take the outer body fabric and fuse or baste the fusible fleece or batting to the wrong side.

2. Match the outer fabric with the lining fabric at the top of each piece with right sides together. Stitch a ¼ inch seam.

3. Fold the ribbon in half with wrong sides together. Measure ½ inch from the side of the fabric and pin. Pin or tape the edges of the ribbon to the cut edge of the fabric.

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

Customizable Wristlet for an Ipod, Cellphone, or Camera Activity

4. Match the bottom of the outer fabric with the bottom of the lining fabric, right sides together. Stitch a ¼ inch seam across the bottom. (Make sure the ribbon is stitched within the seam).Trim seams to reduce bulk.

5. Turn the fabric pieces to the outside or right side. Position the lining fabric in the middle, leaving a ½ inch of the outer fabric on both sides. See photo:

6. Serge down each of the long sides. Secure the ends of the serge seam by using a seam sealant such as fray check.

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

7. Now, fold the fabric in half and stitch up both sides to form the wristlet.

Customizable Wristlet for an Ipod, Cellphone, or Camera Activity

8. At the bottom corners, create a triangle by bringing the bottom and side seams together to create a triangle point. Stitch across at about ¼ inch from the end or point.

9. Turn wristlet right side out and poke out the corners. Now it’s ready to use.

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

Apparel and Textile Production I

3.02 Four Squares Sewing Activity

Supplies Needed:

 Rotary Cutter, rotary mat, straight edge ruler or fabric shears  Seam gauge  Marking pencil, pen, chalk, or tracing wheel and paper  Thread  Bobbin

Directions:

1. Using the seam gauge, measure four, 4” X 4” squares of fabric.

2. Using the rotary cutter, mat, and straight ruler or fabric shears cut squares. (Caution: If using the rotary cutter- pay attention to where your fingers are at all times. The blade is very sharp.)

3. Prepare your sewing machine to sew by winding the bobbin and threading the machine.

4. Square 1: Sew three rows of stitching: a. 1st row- basting stitches (5.5 to 6.0) b. 2nd row- standard stitch length (2.5 to 3.0) c. 3rd row- reinforced stitches (1.0 to 1.5)

5. Square 2: Sew 4 rows of stitching: a. 1st row- sew a 5/8” row of stitches b. 2nd row-sew a 3/8” row of stitches from the 5/8” row. c. 3rd row- sew a ½” row of stitches from the 3/8” row. d. 4th row- sew a ¼” row of stitches from the ½” row.

6. Square 3: Sew 5 rows of stitching- a. 1st row- narrow zigzag b. 2nd row-wide zigzag c. 3rd -5th row- your choice of a decorative stitch

7. Square 4: Designer Choice a. Using a marking method of your choice, draw a design and then stitch it out.

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

Apparel and Textile Production I

3.02 Sew Around a Silhouette Activity

Materials Needed:

• Medium-weight cotton fabric for the background to fit the desired size silhouette. • Medium-weight cotton fabric to fit the desired size silhouette. • Iron-on adhesive such as Wonder Under • Thread to match

Directions:

1. Take a photograph of your profile. This will become your silhouette. 2. Transfer image (silhouette) to the computer and enlarge to the desired size. Print and carefully cut out the silhouette and use as your pattern piece. 3. Pin the silhouette pattern piece to fabric with the right side of the image touching the right side of the fabric. As shown:

4. Pin the wrong side of the silhouette pattern piece to the right side (smooth side) of the Iron-on adhesive, cut out.

5. Iron on adhesive to the wrong side of silhouette. Follow manufacturer’s directions.

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

Sew Around a Silhouette Activity

6. Peel off the back layer of the adhesive and place silhouette onto the background fabric. 7. Position and press the silhouette with the attached Iron-on adhesive to a piece of background fabric.

8. Next sew around the silhouette. Sew carefully around corners and pivot when necessary.

9. You are finished, trim excess thread and turn in for a grade. You may want to frame your finished silhouette.

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

Apparel and Textile Production I ______

3.02 Small Sewing Equipment Name______

Key Terms Activity Category______

Purpose______Name______Identify each sewing tool and give the correct category from word bank provided and list the intended purpose of tool.

CATEGORY BANK: Name______MEASURING – PINNING – CUTTING Category______MARKING – STITCHING - PRESSING Purpose______

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Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

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Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

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Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

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Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

Apparel and Textile Production I

3.02 Sewing Project Resource List Activity

Sewing Tutorials with Directions:

Pin Cushion Ideas: http://www.happytogethercreates.com/2010/01/sweetheart-pin-cushion-tutorial.html http://weekenddoings.blogspot.ca/2012/07/small-sewing-projects.html#.Ukbg93W9KSM http://www.rileyblakedesigns.com/cutting-corners/category/pincushions/

Clutches and Bags http://www.ourbusylittlebunch.com/2012/03/mini-clutch-tutorial.html http://liagriffith.com/make-a-monogrammed-jumbo-tote-bag/ http://www.handmadejane.co.uk/2011/11/kids-wash-bag-tutorial.html

Scarves http://www.sew4home.com/projects/fabric-art-accents/voile-infinity-scarf http://www.buzzfeed.com/pippa/32-easy-to-diy-scarves-to-suit-every-style

Accessories http://www.momtastic.com/diy/167487-diy-splendid-hair-bow/ http://www.polkadotchair.com/2010/03/tuesday-tutorial-quick-change-corsage- necklace.html/ http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=281186.msg3184220#msg3184220 http://darlingadventures.com/?p=470

Miscellaneous http://www.babble.com/home/8-adorable-sewing-projects-for-beginners/#tissue-pack- cover http://howtosew.com/blog/great-gifts/diy-bow-tie http://erinerickson.com/2011/11/circle-zip-earbud-pouch-tutorial/ http://www.handmadejane.co.uk/2011/03/lavender-bag-tutorial.html http://ideas.stitchcraftcreate.co.uk/easy-sewing-projects-for-beginners-bookmark/

Great Books: Sewing Green- Betz White Bend the Rules With Fabric-Amy Karol Carry Me- Yuka Koshizen Simply Sublime Bags-Jodi Kahn Get The Most From Your Sewing Machine-Marion Elliot One Yard Wonders-Rebecca Yaker and Patricia Hoskins Sew & Stow-Betty Oppenheimer

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

Apparel & Textile Production I

3.02 Small Drawstring Bag Activity

Materials Needed:

 Scraps of fabric  ¼ inch ribbon (19 inches)  Thread to match

Directions:

1. Measure and cut a piece of scrap fabric, 16 inches long and 6 ¾ inch wide. 2. Fold fabric in half as shown:

3. Measure and mark ¼ inch down from the top of the fabric:

4. Measure 1 inch down from the first mark and mark again:

5. Measure 1 inch down from second mark on the right side of the fabric and create a dot:

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

Small Drawstring Bag Activity

6. Sew a 5/8 inch seam down the left side:

7. Sew up the right side of the fabric to the dot (backstitch): 8. Press under ¼ inch at the top:

9. Fold over pressed edge to the dot and press again: 10. Sew around the circle close to the bottom edge: 11. Turn inside out and put ribbon through the opening at the side with a safety pin. 12. Tie a bow and you are done.

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015 6/18/2015

Obj. 3.02 Apparel Construction Tools & Equipment Small Sewing Equipment

+Measuring Equipment

Tape Measure

Sewing or Seam Gauge

Yard Stick

Transparent Ruler

Hem Gauge

Skirt Marker

+Tape Measure

Purpose:

• Taking Body Measurements

• Measure Fabric

• Measure Pattern Pieces

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+Sewing/Seam Guage

Purpose:

Measuring seam allowances & hems

+Yard Stick

Purpose: Measuring skirt hems & tasks requiring long, rigid measure

+Transparent Ruler

Purpose:

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+Hem Gauge

Purpose:

Marks straight & curved hems

+Skirt Marker

Purpose:

Measure & mark hemlines with either pins or chalk

+Pinning Equipment

Silk Pins

Ballpoint Pins

Ball-headed Pins

T-Pins

Pincushion (w/emery)

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+Silk Pins

Made of stainless steel or brass

Used with most fabrics

+Ballpoint Pins

Silk pin with a rounded point to enable pin to slip easily between strands of yarn, to prevent snags.

+Ball-head Pins

Pins with colorful glass or plastic heads

Easy to pick up

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+T-Pin

Large T – shaped head

Work well on:  Loosely woven fabrics  Bulky fabrics  Pile fabrics

+ Pincushion (with emery)

Pincushions provide a safe way to store pins for convenience. They come in many colors & shapes.

To sharpen a dull pin, Emery stick the pin in & out of the emery.

Cutting+ Equipment

Dressmaker Shears

Sewing Scissors

Pinking Shears

Embroidery Scissors

Seam Ripper

Thread Clipper

Rotary Cutter

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+Shears & Scissors

 Dressmaker Shears  Sewing Scissors

 Bent handle allows fabric to  Small round handles

lie flat while cutting.  Blade usually 4 to 6 inches

 Good for detail work:  Usually 7 t0 8 inches  Clipping curves  Corners

 Pinking Shears  Embroidery Scissors  3 to 4 inches in length  Zigzag edge:  Very pointed tip  Finishes raw edge of seam  Helps prevent raveling  Used for cutting:  Buttonholes  Not for cutting out  Trimming embroidery

pattern pieces. This image cannot currently be displayed. threads

+Seam Ripper

Purpose:

Removes stitches with small blade. Blade lifts the tread away from the fabric before cutting.

+Thread Clipper

Spring-action blades

Purpose:

• Clipping thread ends

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+Rotary Cutter

Round retractable blade resembling a pizza cutter.

Makes straight clean cuts through multiple layers of fabric.

Must be used with a special “self-healing” cutting mat.

+Marking Equipment

Fabric Marking Pen

Tracing Wheel

Tailor’s Chalk

Thread

+Fabric Marking Pen

• Purpose:

•Marks • Notches •Darts • Circles • Squares • Disappears with water or evaporates after 48 hours.

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+Tracing Wheel

. Marks pattern symbols onto fabric.

. Use a smooth edged wheel for delicate fabrics.

. Use a saw-toothed wheel for most other fabrics.

. Special waxed carbon paper for tracing is available in many colors.

+Tailor’s Chalk

. Purpose:

. Mark pattern symbols onto fabric.

. Small square or pencils will mark most fabrics.

. Markings can be brushed away or will disappear when pressed with an iron.

+Thread

Purpose:

Mark pattern symbols.

Make simple hand- sewn stitches to mark construction lines on fabric.

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+Sewing Equipment

Hand Sewing Needles

Thimble

Needle Threader

Bodkin

Pointer

Loop Turner

+Hand Sewing Needles

Needles vary in size from:

1- for (Course fabrics) 12- for (Fine fabrics)

Purpose:

. Basting . Hemming . Applying fasteners . Buttons . Snaps/Hook & eyes

+Thimble

Metal or plastic tool to protect finger while hand sewing.

Available in different sizes.

Indentions in thimble help hold needle while pushing the needle through fabric.

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+Needle Threader

Small tool with thin wire to aid in threading a needle.

+Bodkin

. Resembles a large, blunt needle

Purpose:

. Pulls cord or elastic through casings

Elastic

+Pointer

Wooden tool with a pointed end for pushing out sharp corners on collars.

Rounded edge is used for holding seam open while pressing.

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+Loop Turner

A long metal rod with a hook.

Purpose:

Turns bias tubing and casings right side out.

+Pressing Equipment

 Iron

 Ironing Board

 Press Cloth

 Tailor’s Ham

 Sleeve Board

 Seam Roll

 Point Presser

Iron

Iron & Ironing Board Ironing Board +Iron- Metal appliance used to press & steam fabrics during and after construction.

Ironing Board- Level & sturdy surface with tight fitting cover & smooth padding.

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+ Press Cloth . Lightweight cloth for pressing fabrics.

. Prevents – iron shine or glossy marking & scorching on certain fabrics.

Tailors Ham A firm round cushion used to press curved areas of a garment.

Purpose: Darts Curved Seams

+Sleeve Board

Small ironing board around 20 inches long.

Purpose:

Press narrow areas such as sleeves.

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+Seam Roll

Long firm tubular cushion used for pressing long seams and small curved areas.

+Point Presser

A narrow wooden surface with a pointed end.

Purpose:

. Pressing collar points

. Curved & straight edges

Apparel and Textile Production I

3.02 Small Sewing Tools Equipment List

Measuring Pinning Cutting Marking Stitching Pressing

Tape Measure Silk Pins Dressmaker Fabric Marking Pen Hand Sewing Needles Iron Shears

Sewing/Seam Guage Ballpoint Pins Sewing Scissors Tracing Wheel Thimble Ironing Board

Yardstick Ball-headed Pins Pinking Shears Tailor’s Chalk Bodkin Press Cloth

Hem Guage T-Pins Embroidery Scissors Thread Needle Threader Tailor’s Ham

Transparent Ruler Pincushion Seam Ripper Pattern Weights Loop Turner Sleeve Board

Skirt Marker Thread Clipper Basting Tape Seam Roll

Rotary Cutter Glue Stick Point Presser

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

3.03

COURSE FA31 – Apparel and Textile Production I ESSENTIAL 3.00 B2 53% Understand apparel engineering. STANDARD Understand engineering and OBJECTIVE 3.03 B2 25% construction. 1. What are the different seams and seam finishes and their purpose? 2. How are basic seams and seam finishes constructed? 3. What are the machine stitching techniques and their application? 4. How is bulk reduced in seams? 5. How is fullness controlled in apparel? ESSENTIAL 6. What are the different facings and their application? QUESTIONS 7. What are the different types of interfacing, characteristics, and application? 8. What are the different fasteners used in constructing apparel and their proper application? 9. What are the different hem applications and how do you apply them in apparel?

UNPACKED CONTENT

A. Characteristics and Types of Stitches 1. Characteristics a. Standard Stitching b. Basting. c. Reinforcement Stitching 2. Types of Machine Stitching a. Stay-stitching b. Standard Seam Stitching c. Backstitching d. Understitching e. Topstitching f. Edgestitching h. Stitch-in-the-ditch i. Zigzag Stitching

3. Specialty Stitches

B. Seams and Seam Finishes

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1. Plain seam 2. Reinforced seam 3. Flat-felled seam 4. French seam 5. Zigzag seam finish 6. Machine overcast seam finish 7. Serged seam finish 8. Turned and stitched finish

C. Reducing Bulk 1. Trimming/Grading 2. Clipping/ Notching

D. Controlling fullness 1. Easing 2. Gathering 3. Darts 4. Casings E. Facings 1. Types 2. Application F. Interfacing 1. woven 2. non-woven 3. Fusible 4. Non-fusible G. Hems 1. Applying hems (marking, finishing, removing fullness, finishing) 2. Machine 3. Hand I. Fasteners 1. Zippers (lapped and centered) 2. Buttons/buttonholes 3. Snaps 4. Hook & eyes 5. Hook & Loop Tape

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INSTRUCTIONAL ACTIVITIES 3.00 Understand apparel engineering 3.03 Understand engineering and construction A. Characteristics and types of stitches Portfolio Option: Throughout this curriculum we offer a portfolio option. Look for this ╬ icon throughout the curriculum. This is an opportunity for your students to collect their work throughout the class. Key Terms Stitch lengths Backstitching Standard stitching Understitching Basting Standard seam stitching Reinforcement stitching Topstitching Stay-stitching Edge stitching Directional stitching Stitch-in-the-ditch Zigzag stitching Specialty stitches 1.  Discuss with students the importance of Machine Stitching Techniques. Have students complete the Machine Stitching Guided Notes handout while viewing Machine Stitching PowerPoint presentation found in Instructional Resources. There is a Machine Stitching Guided Notes Key for your reference.  After students complete Machine Stitching Guided Notes, set up computer stations around the room where groups can watch 40 Techniques Every Sewer Should Know (Video link is in Instructional Resources.)  Work in groups of 2-3 to create a WikiHow on one of the Machine Stitching techniques or make a storyboard to share with the class. Display the storyboards in the classroom. Portfolio Option ╬  Have students complete practice samples of backstitching, staystiching, directional stitching, basting and understitching. Students should mount sample, explain the purpose of each stitching sample and label. This could be included as a section in their Apparel & Textile Design Portfolio. OR  Have students create a digital portfolio. Students can screen shot their storyboard and samples and download their WikiHow for the portfolio. Instructional Resources 40 Techniques Every Sewer Should Know with Gail Yellen Sewing Machine Fabric for samples Thread Scissors PowerPoint Computer Projector

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015 Page 45

3.03 Understand engineering and construction B. Seams and Seam Finishes

Key Terms Seam Pin Basting Hand basting Plain seam Topstitched seam Flat-felled seam French seam Slot seam Double stitched seam Seam finish Stitched-and-pinked finish Turned-and-stitched finish Zig-zagged seam finish Machine overcast seam finish Serged or overlock seam finish Bound seam finish 1. This activity will cover approximately 3 class periods.

 Students will view the Seams PPT  Introduce seams and seam finishes by having a gallery-walk through as a bell ringer. Bring in sample garments that demonstrate various seams and seam finishes. (If garments are not available for each seam or seam

finish, provide pictures.) Under each seam and seam finish, write name of seam, criteria for seam construction, and have provide fabrics that associated with each seam and seam finish.  After students have completed walk-through, have them complete Activity 16-1: Matching Seam Finishes to Fabric pg. 197 from Successful Sewing. (See Instructional Resources for textbook information.)

 Students should prepare sewing machines for a seam and seam finish lab activity. Provide fabric swatches large enough for each seam in a color that has an obvious right and wrong side. Use Activity 16-3: Evaluating Learning pg. 199 in Successful Sewing as a rubric for the activity.  Demonstrate each the seams and seam finishes below and allow students time to construct each seam. (Students should keep seam samples and

include as part of their portfolio.)

See Seams and Seams Finishes on the next page

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B. Seams and Seam Finishes

Seams  Plain  Flat-felled  French  Topstitched

Seam Finishes  Stitched-and-pinked finish  Turned-and stitched finish  Zigzagged finish Serge-stiched finish

Instructional Resources Seams PPT Sewing machine/thread Serger (for serged finish) Shears: dressmaker & pinking eight 2- by 6-inch pieces of fabric from fabric scraps Iron Sewing seam gauge Labeled Garment samples/pictures/pre-made seam finishes. Fabric samples Successful Sewing 7th Ed. Write-in Text, Westfall- Goodheart-Wilcox Publisher

2. Seams and Seam Finishes Portfolio Project  This activity will cover approximately 1 class period.  Using seams or seam finish samples from prior lab activities, instruct ╬ students in creating portfolio pages. Students should use a paper cutter to insure lines are straight. Students should type the seam or seam finish in a readable font in at least 14-16 pt. with other sections in 12 pt. Have students choose one style of font and keep it consistent throughout project. Each page should be mounted on black construction paper or cardstock. Refer to example page under resources.

Each page should include:  Seam or seam finish from lab activity  Fabric sample to demonstrate criteria of seam  Criteria for each seam in a short summary format.

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B. Seams and Seam Finishes Instructional Resources Precut fabric samples Scissors Mounting tape/rubber cement/glue stick Paper cutter Ruler Computer/printer French Seam Types of Seams Thread Essentials Clothes & Your Appearance, Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. 2008 Clothing: Fashion, Fabrics & Construction, McGraw Hill Glencoe, 2008 Iron Sewing seam gauge Labeled Garment samples/pictures/pre-made seam finishes. Fabric samples Double-fold bias tape or tricot bias binding Clothes & Your Appearance, Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. 2008 Clothing: Fashion, Fabrics & Construction, McGraw Hill Glencoe, 2008

OR 3.  Have the students create a pillow demonstrating different seams and seam finishes. See Seam Finish Pillow Project handout for instructions and Seam Finish Pillow Project Rubric.

Instructional Resources Sewing machines Fabric- ½ yard of medium weight woven cotton fabric per pillow Bag of polyfill Thread Small sewing equipment to include: sewing scissors or rotary cutter, seam ripper, measuring tape or straight edge ruler, rotary mat and hand sewing needles. Seam Finish Pillow Project Handout Seam Finish Pillow Project Rubric 4.  In small groups, have students create an infographic about the different seams and seam finishes.  Suggested online Infographic creator- http://infogr.am/

Industry Connection The teacher demonstrates how to examine seams and seam finishes for quality, based on the quality check points in garment manufacturing. Visit sites for information on quality check points in garment manufacturing.

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3.03 Understand engineering and construction C. Reducing Bulk Key Terms Trimming Grading Clipping Notching 1.  The teacher will discuss and demonstrate ways to reduce bulk in plain and curved seams.  Have the students create flash cards with key term, definition and a diagram of each of the reducing bulk techniques.  Have the students create an online interactive poster with images of various items of clothing from online retail store websites. Have the students read the garment description and include information on the poster recommending a method of reducing bulk for various areas within each of the garments. Suggested website for interactive poster: http://www.glogster.com/  Have students practice reducing bulk in curved seams by cutting out the curved seam pattern pieces and following the directions on how to reduce bulk on an inward and outward curve (directions and pattern pieces found in the Successful Sewing resource book, Activity 15-pages 191-193.)

Instructional Resources Medium-weight cotton fabric Thread Scissors Bobbins Pins Sewing machines . ╬ Portfolio Option  Have students mount and label completed reducing bulk samples in portfolio. Mount and label sample with suggestions for use. Take photo of each sample to be downloaded into the student digital portfolio.  Have students cut out the curved seam pattern pieces out of fabric. Sew a sample of each of the inward and outward curve and demonstrate the appropriate techniques of trimming, grading, clipping, and notching.

Instructional Resources Successful Sewing resource book, Reducing Bulk Activity 15-pages 191- 193. Online flash cards: http://quizlet.com/, http://www.flashcardmachine.com/, Trimming, Grading, Clipping Reproducible Master 26-5. Apparel Teachers Resource Guide, Goodheart-Wilcox co., Inc., 2012.

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3.03 Understand engineering and construction D. Controlling Fullness Key Terms Easing Gathering Single-Pointed Dart Double-Pointed Dart Applied Casing Self Casing 1.  The teacher will explain the technique of easing and demonstrate how to ease two fabric pieces together.  Show YouTube video to demonstrate how to pin baste a seam as a technique to ease two fabric pieces together.  The students will practice the technique of easing by using the directions and patterns provided in the Successful Sewing resource book. Have students cut out the pattern pieces from fabric. Next, students will pin pieces with right sides together, matching notches and dots. Ease larger area of fabric into smaller area, pin as you go. Sew both pieces together to create a smooth, flat seam.

Instructional Resources Computer Projector YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eh7_zvHcIio Sewing Machine Fabric Pins Thread Scissors Easing Pattern Pieces directions and pattern pieces located in Successful Sewing resource book, Activity 19-1, pages 213-217. 2.  Teacher will explain and demonstrate the technique of gathering.  Have students watch YouTube video to reinforce technique of easing.  The teacher will discuss and compare the similarities and differences of easing and gathering techniques. Have the students create a chart of the similarities and differences of easing and gathering techniques.  Students will practice the technique of gathering by constructing a sample using the directions in the Successful Sewing resource book. Instructional Resources Computer Projector Sewing Machine Fabric Pins Thread Scissors Apparel- Design, Textiles & Construction: Teacher’s Presentations for PowerPoint, Goodheart-Wilcox Publisher, 2012. Gathering Pattern Pieces directions and pattern pieces located in Successful Sewing resource book, Activity 19-2, pages 214-219.

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D. Controlling Fullness 3.  The teacher will explain the two different kinds of darts, double and single point and where they are most likely found in a garment.  The teacher will demonstrate how to construct a single and double pointed darts.  Teacher will show YouTube Video

Instructional Resources Sewing machine Fabric Tracing paper and wheel Pins Thread Patterns found in the Sewing & Serging skill sheets handbook, a resource in the Clothing: Fashions, Fabrics and Construction teacher handbook resource, 1998 edition. 4.  The teacher will explain the two different kinds of casings, a self-casing and an applied casing.  The teacher will demonstrate how to construct a self and applied casing. Then students will practice sewing a self-casing using the directions in the Sewing a Self-Casing handout.  Teacher will show YouTube Video

Instructional Resources Sewing a Self-Casing handout Sewing machine Fabric Pins Thread Safety pin and elastic

╬ Portfolio Option  Students will take a digital photo of each of their samples of the various controlling fullness techniques. Download photo(s) into digital portfolio. This could include samples of easing, gathers, darts, and casings.

FCCLA Connection  Have students construct a garment to compete in the Fashion Construction FCCLA Star Event. See instructions and rubric information at www.fcclainc.org .

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3.03 Understand engineering and construction E. Facings Key Terms Shaped Facing or Fitted Facing Extended Facing Bias Facing Understitching Trimming Grading Clipping Notching Interfacing 1.  This activity will cover approximately 5-10 class periods depending on the activity chosen. “All Dolled Up” is an activity that incorporates many engineering techniques.  Introduce facings to your students by bringing in examples from home, or view examples from one of the internet links below.  Application o Collars o Necklines o Armholes o Waistbands

 Facing Links o Facing Made Easy o Neckband #3 Facing o Redesign a t-shirt neckline with a facing  Divide Techniques of Facing Application between students. Each student should research an application and present a storyboard that chronicles the steps in each technique. Post these storyboards in the classroom.

 Techniques of Facing Application o Applying interfacing to a facing o Construction of a facing o Neatening the edge of a facing o Attaching a neck facing o Facing a slashed neckline o Armhole Facing o Combination neck and armhole facing o Grown-on facing o Piped neck edge o Plackets o Necklines in stretch knits

See Option on next page.

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E. Facings

OR T-shirt Facing Lab  Have students bring in an old or new t-shirt to use for a t-shirt lab activity. Students will sketch out a “new” design for their t-shirt by changing the neckline or armhole of their shirt. Students will need approximately ¼- yard additional cotton fabric that is a close match to their t-shirt to cut facing.  Provide Pellon® Ek 130 Easy-Knit Fusible Knit Interfacing and Underlining. available at most fabric stores to apply to facing. This activity would also be a nice Segway for your lesson on interfacings. (If you are limited on time, add in interfacing vocabulary and combine the two sections as one lesson.  After students have re-designed their t-shirts to include a new neckline or armhole, they are ready to cut out their facing, interface it and begin constructing. For assembly of the facing, refer to the link below. This link is a preview of a book that would be an excellent resource for the classroom.  Facing Link  After students complete their lab activity, have a fashion show to show case the shirts. Students should write a short description of their shirt, with an explanation of facing type and application method used to complete their shirts.

Instructional Resources T-shirt Pellon® Ek 130 Easy-Knit Fusible Knit Interfacing and Underlining. Sewing Maching Thread Cotton Fabric for facing Scissors Iron Facing Made Easy Neckband #3 Facing Redesign a t-shirt neckline with a facing

OR “All Dolled-Up” Facing Lab  Prior to the lab activity, purchase 18” doll clothing patterns depicting several eras of fashion. Make sure patterns have garment features that include facings.  Purchase 18” dolls to use in project. Write a grant for dolls, use local allotment or ask for students find a sponsor for their project.

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E. Facings

 Construct a few samples from Your period of fashion is the patterns out of muslin with facings in 1800’s. a contrasting color. Demonstrate the steps in constructing the facing to Please name your doll and include interfacing application, research your fashion era. Write a clipping/notching inward or outward short biography that includes the curves, understitching and applying dolls hobbies, daily life. Include the facing to the garment. the social class of your doll, how  Students should find a lab partner she would dress for play school, and choose a time period card (see church or other special events. example to right). Each group is Include fabrics available in this responsible for making two garments era, and how the clothes were for their doll. Students should sewn, manufactured and cleaned. construct one pajama garment and Make a small book with biography one other of their choice. information to be included with  Contact Social Services or another community agency that will be willing your doll. to find deserving elementary age girls to give dolls to for Christmas.  Invite the chosen agency to a “Tea Party” and present dolls to local agency recipients. Prepare simple treats and punch for guests. Place biography, doll in a clear cellophane bag, close with a decorative bow, and doll nametag. Place dolls on a table and have each girl present their doll to the agency representative. Request pictures of the children receiving their dolls for student portfolios.

FCCLA Connection  Have students compete in the “Recycle, Redesign” star event. Students could redesign a garment they have in their closet or an outfit at a thrift store.

Instructional Resources Computer Printer Cellophane bags Ribbon Card stock for booklets Glue stick/rubber cement 18” Doll patterns Tea Party treats

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3.03 Understand engineering and construction F. Interfacings Key Terms Interfacing Woven Interfacing Nonwoven Interfacing Fusible Interfacing Fusible Knit Interfacing

1.  Provide students with fabric swatches in natural and man-made fibers. Complete Activity 20-1: Practicing Making Decisions About Interfacing in Successful Sewing workbook pg. 227.  Purchase the various types of interfacing above in varying weights and fibers suitable for a variety of fabrics. Give students small 2x2 square samples and have them make vocabulary cards with index cards for each type of interfacing.

Type of interfacing Interfacing . Woven Sample Application

. Very versatile, good for tailored garments and for places where fusible interfacings are not appropriate.

Characteristics

. Stable control, crisp finish, available in a variety of weights, generally more plialbe than nonwoven or fusibles.

 Set-up several stations around lab with one ironing board, one iron, precut fabric swatches, and interfacing samples. Allow students to use cell phones if permitted or video tape demonstrations of how to apply various interfacing samples. Have students create a Google Docs PowerPoint slide presentation or a WikiHow with demonstration clips on how to apply interfacing to a garment. When students share the presentation with other students, have them allow others to comment on their projects. If Google Docs is unavailable, make a regular PowerPoint presentation or WikiHow and present during class.

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F. Interfacings

OR Luggage Tag Interfacing Lab

 Use classroom fabric scraps or have students bring in lightweight cotton fabric to make a luggage tag. Use Luggage Tag Pattern in Instructional Resources.

Instructional Resources Computer Luggage Tag Pattern Camera/video camera Poster board Iron Ironing Board Pins Dressmaker Shears Embroidery Scissors Sewing Machine Fabric Index Cards Interfacing Samples Successful Sewing, 7th edition – Mary Westfall- Goodheart-Willcox Publishers

Industry Connection  Introduce this entrepreneurial project as a segway into Apparel and Textile Production II. This project could launch an individual or group start-up business within your classroom. Have student/s design a tie or bow tie and pocket square for a teacher/administrator. Students should interview the teacher/administrator to determine style preferences, and sizing. This project will allow you to incorporate a tailoring type interfacing that is nonfusible and will need to be hand stitched for stability. Some tie patterns also have an interlining. Remind students to give laundering/care instructions to the receipients.  Once the ties and squares are completed, present tie to the teacher/administrator and take pictures. Make an announcement or make posters to advertise when and how to vote.. Post the pictures in the Media Center at your school and have students/teachers vote for their favorite. OR, post pictures to your school provided webpage and set up a poll where votes can be cast. When votes are counted, present a small prize or certificate to the winner.

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F. Interfacings Instructional Resources Computer Camera Poster board Iron Ironing Board Pins Dressmaker Shears Embroidery Scissors Sewing Machine Fabric Bow Tie/Tie Pattern Certificate/Prize Index Cards Interfacing Samples

 The links provide project tutorials for students. http://makezine.com/craft/diy-ing_the_emmys_the_bow_tie/ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GVlwpMFLI8I&noredirect=1 http://www.pinterest.com/voxbox/bow-ties-and-nerd-couture/ http://www.wikihow.com/Tie-a-Bow-Tie

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3.03 Understand engineering and construction G. Hems Key Terms Turned and Stitched Hem Machine Blind Hem Rolled Hem Fused Hem Slip-stitched Hem Eased Hem 1.  Have the students create a chart to define the key terms above. Students will research each type of hem to answer the following questions:

o What is it? (Name of Hem) o What are the steps to complete? (Construction) o When do we use it? (Application)

 Students will create a chart divided to answer each of the questions. Students should include an illustration of each hem.

╬ OR

 Have students create vocabulary cards with each of the Key Terms.  Distribute index cards to students. Students will research each hemming method and create a card to illustrate and explain the construction steps for each method. Turned & Stitched Hem Include on Card

 Name of hem

 Application

 Construction

Application: Light to medium weight fabrics_____

Hem Construction:

1. Turn under the top edge of the hem ¼ inch. Press in place with a press cloth. 2. Machine stitch close to the folded edge of the hem. 3. Turn the hem up and hand stitch to the garment. Use one of the hand stitches, such as the slip stitch. 4. Press hem using a press cloth.

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G. Hems 2.  Using the Hem PPT, discuss the steps of a proper hem. 1. Mark hem length. (Put on garment, parallel to floor, work with partner) 2. Turn up hem

(Amount to turn up will depend on hem method to be used, how to

ease fullness when hemming) 3. Finish hem edge 4. Attach hem to garment o Discuss how fabric plays a role in each hem. o Discuss how each hem finish is selected. (Weight and degree of ravel).

o Demonstrate the use of a seam gauge. Students that need additional practice should be given fabric samples to measure. ╬ Portfolio Option  Create each hem using strips of fabric. Samples should be labeled with end uses. These can be placed in a notebook or can be photographed and placed in a digital portfolio.  Create a zipper bag using sample hem strips. Hem Strip Bag instructions can be found in the instruction resource folder.

Instructional Resources Hems PPT Hand Needles Seam Gauge Sewing Machine Hem Strip Bag Activity Fabric Scraps YouTube Video Hem Pants Teach yourself how to hem

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3.03 Understand engineering and construction H. Fasteners Key Terms Hooks & Eye Hook & Bar Snap Snap Tape Eyelets Nylon Tape Buttons Zipper Hook & Loop Tape/Velcro™

1.  Set up fastener stations in the classroom. Stations should have fabric swatches and other necessary tools for applying fasteners. While the teacher mingles to each group and demonstrates proper application, other stations should use computer resource videos, textbooks and sewing resource books to study the correct procedure for application of their fastener. (Use links below for tutorials in each station.) Students should complete all stations and mount samples on cardstock. Mount samples to cardstock and place in student portfolio.

Fastener Stations and Links

 Sewing on Buttons http://www.wikihow.com/Sew‐a‐Button https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+sew+on+a+shank+button&safe=on#q=how+t o+make+a+covered+button&safe=active http://www.americanbuttonmachines.com/

 Hook and Look Tape http://www.ehow.com/how_8423365_apply‐hook‐loop‐tape.html

 Hooks & Snaps http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/23267/how‐to‐attach‐hooks‐eyes‐snaps

 How to sew in a zipper http://www.wikihow.com/Sew‐in‐a‐Zipper

 How to sew in an invisible zipper http://sewing.about.com/od/zipperapplicationnetlink/ss/Sewing‐An‐Invisible‐Zipper‐Step‐ By‐Step‐Photo‐Enhanced‐Instructions_6.htm

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H. Fasteners Instructional Resources Fabric Swatches 4x4 Buttons Zippers Velcro Hooks & Snaps Thread Sewing Machine Ironing Board Iron 2. Teacher will give the students a choice of several simple projects that incorporate one or more types of fasteners. Take students on a field trip to a fabric store to purchase supplies for their project, or provide fabric and fasteners for this activity. Three sample projects are listed below with instructional links and instructional resources.

1. Zippered Pouch Activity

Zippered Project Links http://www.skiptomylou.org/2009/01/14/how‐to‐make‐a‐lined‐zipper‐pouch‐tutorial/ http://www.pinterest.com/merroman/sewing‐ideas‐pretty‐little‐pouches/ http://www.noodle‐head.com/2012/06/open‐wide‐zippered‐pouch‐diy‐tutorial.html http://punkinpattern.blogspot.com/2013/06/simple‐zippered‐pouch‐tutorial.html

Instructional Resources Fabric Scissors Thread Zipper Iron Ironing Board

2. Vinyl Travel Bag Activity Students will create a Vinyl travel bag with Velcro closure. See Instructional Resources for instructions for the Vinyl Travel Bag handout.

Instructional Resources Velcro Clear Vinyl Fabric Pattern or solid vinyl fabric contrast Textbooks/Resource Books Vinyl Travel Bag Instructions

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H. Fasteners 3. Covered Button Activity Purchase a button machine and have students choose one of the covered button activities located on the Covered Button Activity sheet. This would make a great class entrepreneurial project. The link for the button machine is located in the Instructional Resources.

Instructional Resources Fabric Scissors Covered button parts (use American Button Machines link to order button and keychain parts.) Covered Button Kit /Button Machine http://www.americanbuttonmachines.com/

3.  Students will pair-share ideas on how to demonstrate the application of one fastener from Key Terms. Each pair should research how to apply the fastener and then create a WikiHow on this procedure. Groups will demonstrate how to apply the fastener with a step- by- step pictorial WikiHow presentation. Allow students to use camera phones or supply a camera for groups. Have a preview day where students present their projects in class.

Instructional Resources and Links Computer Cardstock Needle & Thread Fabric Fat Quarters Key Term Fasteners Camera or Camera Phone Textbooks/Resource Books Covered Button Kit /Button Machine http://www.americanbuttonmachines.com/

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Apparel and Textile Production I

3.03 Covered Button Activity Projects

 Button Machines are a great way to bring in a simple entrepreneurial project to the classroom. The machine is heavy duty and has many project possibilities beyond the samples below.  The smaller button is made with the 1.5” button machine.  The larger button is made with the 3” button machine.  The American Button Company Link can be found in Instructional Resource

Badge Reel Holder Pony Tail Holder Key Chain

Covered Button Necklace

Covered Button Purse Mirror

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

Apparel and Textile Production I

3.03 – Hems Activity

Students will prepare a zipper bag utilizing their skills with fasteners and hems.

1. Cut 6 strips of fabric that measure 2” X 10”. You may use scraps or remnants of fabric that you have leftover from other projects. You may use the rotary cutter or create a paper pattern. 2. Complete each hem on each of the fabric strips.

Turned and Stitched Hem: 1. Mark hem at ½” 2. Press hem in place. 3. Finish hem edge – your choice (serged or pinked) 4. Machine stitch hem in place.

Fused Hem 1. Mark hem at ½”. 2. Press hem in place. 3. Finish hem edge (serged or pinked) 4. Cut fusible web into strips and fuse hem in place.

Blind Hem 1. Mark hem at ½” 2. Press hem in place 3. Finish hem edge (serged or pinked) 4. Set up machine for a machine blind hem. Fold fabric as necessary and stitch.

Seam Tape Hem 1. Mark hem at ½” 2. Press hem in place. 3. Attach seam tape to raw edge of hem. 4. Machine topstitch hem in place

Slip Stitched Hem 5. Mark hem at ½” 6. Press hem in place. 7. Fold under raw edge and press. 8. Using a single thread, use the slip stich to finish hem.

Rolled Hem 1. Mark hem at ½” 2. Set up serger or machine to do a rolled hem 3. Complete the rolled hem at the marked hem line.

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

3.03 – Hems Activity

Turned Fused Machine Seam Slip Rolled and Blind Tape Stitched Stitched Hem looks attractive from the right side Stitches are spaced evenly Raw edges of hem are finished appropriately Sample looks very neat

To create bag:

 Clean finish or serge the top of each of the 6 hemmed strips of fabric.  Run a gathering stitch 5/8” from the finished edge.  Cut a rectangle 13” X 8”  Gather each strip to 8” to fit the width of the rectangle  Machine stitch each strip on the rectangle piece – 3 on each side

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

3.03 – Hems Activity

 Insert zipper  Sew sides  Box corners

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

6/18/2015

Hems

Hems A properly sewn hem:  Hang straight & even  Parallel to the floor  All fullness be eased in and sewn smoothly

Hem Steps

1. Mark the hem length 2. Turn the hem up and press 3. Finish the hem edge 4. Attach the hem

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Mark the Hem

Work with a partner Wear garment with appropriate shoes Measure the desired length with a yard stick from the floor Mark desired length with pins or a marking tool

Turn Up the Hem

Depending on the selected hemming method, measure from desired hem length and make an additional mark noting where to trim the excess fabric

Finish the Edge The raw edge of a hem must be finished to prevent raveling.  The finish is determined by fabric & function.  The raw edges of hems are finished just like the raw edges of seams

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Attach the Hem Hems are attached by hand, machine, or fusing.

Hems by machine

 It is the quickest, permanent hemming method  Most common methods are Topstitched, Turned & Stitched, Machine Blind Hem, and Rolled Hem

Topstitched  Used to attach a hem and decorate at the same time (the stitching shows, just like any topstitching).

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Topstitched Hem 1. Mark hem 2. Trim to 1 ¼” 3. Press hem to inside 1 ¼” 4. Turn raw edge in ¼” & press again. 5. Top stitch close to second fold.

Hems by machine Turned and Stitched • Looks like a topstitched hem, but the amount of fabric turned up is very small (1/4”and usually found at the bottom of a man’s shirt).

Turn & Stitch Hem 1. Mark hem & trim so that it is 5/8”. 2. Turn raw edge up 5/8” & press. 3. Turn raw edge in to the 5/8” pressing line and press again. 4. Topstitch along the second folded edge.

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Machine Blind Hem • Used for most commercially hemmed garments, • Uses the blind hem foot. • Virtually invisible

Steps Machine Blind Hem 1. Press the hem 2. Fold the raw edge in ¼” and press 3. Pin hem in position 4. Turn the “hem” back on itself 5. Position it under the blind hem foot 6. Sew using the machine blind hem stitch

Hems by hand The stitches should be: • evenly spaced • loose enough that the fabric does not pucker • almost invisible • sewn with a single thread

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Hems by hand Slip stitch: Stitches are almost invisible Used to attach a folded edge such as a hemmed (turned & stitched) finish or bias binding.

To sew, the hand needle is slipped inside the folded edge of the hem and the picks up one or two threads of the fabric directly below.

Fused Hem  It is considered a quick fix.  Used to temporarily hold a hem, i.e dressing for work and you inadvertently pull out the hem of your pants and need a quick fix.  Done with a fusible web

6 o +,(U o- c- o F o) o (U F F o) c o) oo $ o) r o) +, .- = J () qN ao .+ Cut1 of clearvinyl o-o 3.03 Luggage Tag Template rB

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

Apparel and Textile Production I

3.03 Machine Stitching Guided Notes Activity Key

I. Stitch Lengths

. Stitch Length is determined by the PURPOSE. . A medium stitch length is most COMMON. . BASTING STITCHES are very SHORT. . REINFORCEMENT stitches are very SHORT.

II. Standard Stitching

. Use Standard Stitching for PERMANENT SEAMS & construction details. . In most fabrics, standard stitching length is 10 to 12 inches. . In finer fabrics, standard stitching is a SHORT stitch between 12 to 15 stitches per inch. . In heavy fabrics, standard stitching is a LONGER stitch, 8 to 10 stitches per inch.

III. Basting

. MACHINE BASTING holds two pieces of fabric together until they are PERMANENTLY stitched. . Machine basting is also used on a SINGLE layer of fabric for: EASING, GATHERING, and marking GUIDELINES.

IV. Reinforced Stitching

. REINFORCEMENT stitching adds STRENGTH to areas that will be clipped or trimmed close to the STITCHING line or areas of high stress such as armhole, crotch and corners. . There are 15 to 20 stitches per inch in a reinforced stitch.

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

Machine Stitching Guided Notes Activity Key

V. Stay-stitching

. STAY-STITCHING prevents fabric stretching. . Stay-stitching is placed along BIAS & CURVED edges. . STAY-STITCHING is added after: FABRIC marking, before PINNING, BASTING or permanent STITCHING.

VI. Directional Stitching

. DIRECTIONAL stitching helps prevent a SEAM from changing or STRETCHING while stitching. . DIRECTIONAL STITCHING is produced by stitching with or in the DIRECTION of the fabric GRAIN.

VII. Standard Seam Stitching

. Standard SEAM stitching produces a 5/8 inch seam. . Standard seam stitching is used in most PATTERNS.

VIII. Backstitching

. BACKSTITCHING secures the ends of a row of stitching. . To backstitch, begin ½ inch in from the end and STITCH backward to the EDGE of the fabric. . Continue sewing to other end and backstitch ½ from the end.

IX. Understitching

. UNDER stitching keeps facing, or the UNDER side of the fabric rolled out of sight. . UNDER stitching is created from STANDARD stitching. . Stitch from RIGHT side of fabric through FACING & seam allowances, 1/8 inch from SEAM LINE.

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

Machine Stitching Guided Notes Activity Key

X. Topstitching

. TOPSTITCHING is decorative or FUNCTIONAL stitching placed on the OUTSIDE of a garment. . Topstitching outlines SEAMS, secures FACINGS, attaches POCKETS, stitches PLEATS, and holds HEMS.

XI. Edgestitching

. EDGESTITCHING holds fabric & seams in place. It is produced by stitching ¼ from finished edge. . EDGESTITCHING is used in areas such as NECK edges and ZIPPERS.

XII. Stitch-in the-Ditch

. Stitch IN the DITCH holds two or more layers of FABRIC together at the SEAMS and secures NECKLINES, ARMHOLES and WAISTBAND facings. Produced by using standard stitching on the OUTSIDE of a garment in the GROOVE of a seam line.

XIII. Zigzag Stitching

. Zigzag stitching is used to FINISH seams, stitch BUTTONHOLES; attach CORDING & ELASTIC and creating DECORATIVE designs.

XIV. Specialty Stitching

. Most sewing machines have a variety of SPECIALITY stitches. . SPECIALITY stitches add a DECORATIVE aspect to a garment and can be created by a SERGER or sewing machine.

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

Apparel and Textile Production I

3.03 Machine Stitching Guided Notes

Name______

Fill in the Guided Notes with Machine Stitching PowerPoint Slides.

I. Stitch Lengths

. Stitch Length is determined by the______.

. A medium stitch length is most______. . ______are very long. . ______stitches are very ______.

II. Standard Stitching

. Use Standard Stitching for ______& construction details. . In most fabrics, standard stitching length is ____ to ____ inches. . In finer fabrics, standard stitching is a ______stitch between ______to ______stitches per inch. . In heavy fabrics, standard stitching is a ______stitch, _____ to _____stitches per inch.

III. Basting

. ______holds two pieces of fabric together until they are ______stitched. . Machine basting is also used on a ______layer of fabric for: ______, ______, and marking ______.

IV.Reinforced Stitching

. ______stitching adds ______to areas that will be clipped or trimmed close to the ______line or areas of high stress such as armhole, crotch and corners. . There are _____ to ______stitches per inch in a reinforced stitch.

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

3.03 Machine Stitching Guided Notes

V. Stay-stitching

. ______- ______prevents fabric stretching. . Stay- stitching is placed along ______& ______edges. . ______is added after:______marking,

before ______, ______or permanent ______

. Stay-stitching should be done on a ______layer of fabric 1/8

inch from seam ______& within the ______allowance.

. ______acts as a guide for ______& joining ______edges.

VI. Directional Stitching

. ______stitching helps prevent a ______from changing or ______while stitching.

. ______is produced by stitching with or in the ______of the fabric ______.

VII. Standard Seam Stitching

. Standard ______stitching produces a ______inch seam.

. Standard Seam Stitching is used in most ______.

VIII. Backstitching

. ______secures the ends of a row of stitching.

. To backstitch, begin ______inch in from the end and ______backward to the ______of the fabric.

Continue sewing to other end and backstitch ______from the end.

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

3.03 Machine Stitching Guided Notes

IX. Understitching

. ______stitching keeps facing, or the ______side of fabric rolled out of sight.

. ______stitching is created from ______stitching.

. Stitch from ______side of fabric through ______& seam allowances, 1/8 inch from ______.

X. Topstitching

. ______is decorative or ______stitching placed on the ______of a garment.

. Topstitching outlines ______,secures______,

attaches ______, stitches ______, and holds______.

XI. Edgestitching

. ______holds fabric & seams in place. It is produced by stitching ______from finished edge.

. ______is used in areas such as ______edges and______.

XII. Stitch-in-the-Ditch

. Stitch____ the ______holds two or more layers of ______together at the ______and secures ______, ______and ______facings. Produced by using standard stitching on the ______of a garment in the ______of a seam line.

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

3.03 Machine Stitching Guided Notes

XIII. Zigzag Stitching

. Zigzag stitching is used to ______seams, stitch ______; attach ______& ______and creating ______designs.

IXX. Specialty Stitching

. Most sewing machines have a variety of ______stitches.

. ______stitches add a ______aspect to a garment and can be created by a ______or sewing machine.

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015 6/18/2015

Machine Stitching Techniques

Obj. 3.03 Understand Engineering & Construction

Stitch Lengths

 Stitch Length is determined by the purpose.

 A medium stitch length is most common.

 Basting stitches are very long.

 Reinforcement stitches are very short.

Standard Stitching

 Use: Permanent seams & construction details.

 Most Fabrics: 10-12 inches

 Finer Fabrics: Shorter stitch between 12-15 stitches per inch.

 Heavy Fabrics: Longer stitch 8-10 stitches per inch.

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Basting

 Machine basting holds two pieces of fabric together until they are permanently stitched.  Used also on a single layer of fabric for:  Easing  Gathering  Marking guidelines

Reinforcement Stitching

 Adds strength to areas that will be clipped or trimmed close to the stitching line or areas such as armhole, crotch and corners.  Short stitch – 15-20 stitches per inch.

Stay-stitching

Prevents fabric stretching Placed along bias & curved edges Added after: Fabric marking Before pinning Basting Permanent stitching

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Stay-Stitching cont.

Stay-stitching should be done on a single layer of fabric 1/8 inch from seam line & within the seam allowance.

Acts as a guide for clipping & joining curved edges.

Directional Stitching

 Helps prevent a seam from changing or stretching while stitching.

 Produced by stitching with or in the direction of the fabric grain.

Standard Seam Stitching

Produces Plain seam: 5/8 inch

5/8 inch seam

Used in most patterns.

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 Secures the ends of Backstitching a row of stitching.

 Secures the ends of a row of stitching.  Begin ½ inch in from end.  Stitch backward to edge of fabric.  Continue sewing to other end.  Backstitch ½ inch from end.

Understitching

 Keeps facing or the under side of fabric rolled out of sight.  Stitch from right side of fabric  Created from through facing & standard stitching seam allowances, 1/8 inch from seam line.

Topstitching

 Decorative or  Outlines – Seams functional stitching  Secures - Facings placed on the  Attaches – Pockets outside of a garment.  Stitches - Pleats  Holds - Hems

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Edgestitching

 Holds fabric & seams in place.

 Row of stitching ¼ inch from finished edge.

 Used in areas as:  Neck edges  Zippers

Stitch-in-the-ditch

 Holds or more  Standard stitching on the outside of a layers of fabric in the groove together at the of a seam line. seams. :  Necklines  Armholes  Waistband facings

Zigzag Stitching

 Zigzag stitch uses:  Button Hole

 Finish seams  Stitch buttonholes  Attach cording & elastic  Seam Finish  Create decorative designs.

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Specialty Stitches

 Most machines  Machine & Serger have a variety of specialty stitches specialty stitches.

 Specialty Stitches  Add decorative aspect to garment  Can be made by a serger or sewing machine.

6 3.03 Pillow Project Evaluation

4 3 2 1 Student Teacher Comments Criteria Superior Good Fair Poor Score Score

Fabric and notion selection and preparation- suitable for design, properly straightened (both cut edges and grain), preshrunk, if necessary. Pattern preparation- Pressed pattern if necessary. Layout and cutting- pattern pieces pinned on grain, cut with long even strokes, not pinking shears, cut accurately and with grain. Marking methods are appropriate and accurately done. Machine stitching- even stitches, stitch length appropriate to fabric, handles machine efficiently, tension properly adjusted. Handling of bulk- appropriate edges graded, trimmed clipped or notched. Plain Seam- even seam allowances, appropriate seam finish properly done. Zigzag Seam Finish- even seam allowances, appropriate seam finish properly done. Reinforced Seam- even seam allowances, appropriate seam finish properly done.

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015 3.03 Pillow Project Evaluation Serged Seam Finish- even seam allowances, appropriate seam finish properly done. Basted Seam- even seam allowances, appropriate seam finish properly done. Machine Overcast-Seam Finish- even seam allowances, appropriate seam finish properly done. French Seam- Appropriate seam allowances and seam is properly done. Decorative Seam- even seam allowances, appropriate seam finish properly done. Closings and Finishing touches- correct hand stitching, well done, no loose threads. Well pressed fabric/ Management- efficient use of time, energy, materials and equipment. Reflective self evaluation- detailed reflection based on above criteria and digital image included. Total Points

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

Apparel and Textile Production I

3.03 Seam Finish Pillow Activity

Materials Needed:

2 Fat Quarters of Medium-Weight Cotton Fabric or 1/2 yard of Medium-Weight Cotton Fabric Thread to Match

Fabric Preparation:

Cut 5 pieces of fabric, 14 inches by 4 1/2 inches. Put the other piece of fabric aside for the back of the pillow.

A B C D E

Sewing Directions:

1. _____PLAIN SEAM: Pin two long sides of two of the pieces of fabric with right sides together (Piece A and Piece B). Stitch a 5/8 inch plain seam (2.5-3.0 stitch length). Press seam open.

2. _____ZIGZAG SEAM FINISH: Zigzag edges of the seam allowance using the small zigzag setting, (stitch width of 2.0).

3. _____REINFORCED SEAM: Pin long side of piece B to long side of piece C with right sides together. Stitch a reinforced seam (1.0-1.5 stitch length) 5/8 inch from the cut edge.

4. _____SERGED SEAM: Using the serger, serge and cut off ¼ inch of each seam allowance, don’t forget to chain off. Press seam to one side.

5. _____BASTED SEAM: Pin long side of piece C to long side of piece D with right sides together. Stitch a 5/8 inch basted seam (5.0-6.0). Press seam open.

6. _____ MACHINE OVERCAST SEAM FINISH: Use the machine overcast setting and presser foot for your machine. Overcast the raw edge of the each side of the seam.

7. _____FRENCH SEAM: Pin the wrong side of piece D to the wrong side of piece E. Stitch a 3/8 inch seam. Trim the seam allowances to 1/8 inch. Press the seam allowance open. Fold the fabric along the seam line with right sides together. Press. Stitch ¼ inch from the folded edge. French seam to one side.

Using the rubric, self assess your work. Turn in the pillow top and rubric to the teacher to have steps 1 through 7 graded before starting step 8.

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

Seam Finish Pillow Activity

8._____AFTER having pillow top grade, go back to step 5 and stitch over the original stitching with a 2.5 stitch length. Backstitch at both ends.

9._____DECORATIVE STITCHING: Choose a decorative stitch and sew it onto the pillow top front. Suggestions: sew on top of a seam line as a guide to assist in sewing in a straight line. Sew a minimum of 2 rows.

10. ____ASSEMBLY (Putting the front and back together): Place your patchwork pillow FRONT piece RIGHT SIDE UP on the table. Place your pillow back fabric on top, measure and cut to fit. Pin all the way around, having outside edges even. Using a marking pencil, mark on the bottom of the pillow a 3 inch opening (this is where you stuff the pillow).

11. _____SEWING IT TOGETHER: Sew a 5/8 inch seam around the pillow. Be sure to start at the bottom of the pillow at the mark you created and finish at the other mark. Pivot around the corners. Once finished, trim seams to a ¼ inch and cut corners diagonally. Turn pillow right side out and poke the corners out with a point turner. Press pillow and make sure corners at pressed “square”. Fill pillow with stuffing, making sure to STUFF all corners well.

12. _____SLIP STITCH: Close the opening by slipping stitching it closed.

13. ____ PHOTO AND SELF REFLECTION: Take a digital photo of your pillow and insert it into a word document. Using the rubric, self assess your work and use it as a guide to write a reflection of your experience sewing this project. Include information on the seams and seam finishes and any difficulties you may have had. Also list possible end uses for the following seams or seam finishes: French seam and Serged seam finish. Turn reflection, rubric, and finished pillow project in to the teacher for a grade.

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015 6/18/2015

PLAIN SEAM The most common of seams

Suitable for all areas of a garment

Not suitable for shear & lace fabrics

FLAT – FELL SEAM  Decorative

 Strong

 Functional

 Great choice whenever raw edges are not desirable.

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WELT SEAM

 A variation of a flat-fell seam  Less Bulky  Used on heavy fabrics  Easier to sew  Can be used on straight or slightly curved seams

FRENCH SEAM  A seam within a seam

 Used on fabrics that ravel easily

 Used so no raw edges will show

TOPSTITCHED SEAMS

 Plain seam with a row of machine stitching on one or both sides of the seam line.  Decorative effect on sport clothes  Found on pockets, & pleats or to emphasize seamlines

Apparel and Textile Production I

3.03 Creating a Casing Activity

1. Cut a 13 inch by 8 inch long piece of fabric.

2. Fold in half to create a cylinder and then sew a 5/8 inch seam.

3. Fold over ¼ inch on one of the ends and press.

4. Fold over 1 ¼ inch more and press.

5. Stitch 1/8 inch from edge on top and then stitch close to folded edge. Leave a ½ inch opening to insert elastic.

6. Once elastic is inserted, close up the casing by stitching in place.

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015

3.03 Vinyl Bag – Hook & Loop Tape/ Velcro™

1. Cut two pieces of vinyl 11 x 12 inches.

2. Cut two contrasting vinyl strips 11 x 3 ½ inches.

o You can also make your bag your own dimensions. Remember to add ½-seam allowance to your pattern.

3. Fold under ¼ inch on the top and bottom of each contrasting strip, finger press.

4. Place the top edge of the clear vinyl under the top edge of the folded ¼-inch contrasting strip and topstitch across top and bottom edge on front and back pieces of bag.

5. Cut a piece of Hook & Loop Tape/Velcro™ 11 inches long.

6. Pull apart.

7. Place one side of Hook & Loop Tape/Velcro™ to the inside of each contrasting strip – right below topstitched edge of each strip.

8. Place each vinyl bag section together (right sides together), matching top edge first. Pin together with small pins to hold in place.

9. Using a ½ seam allowance, begin sewing at the top edge of one contrast strip, pivot and turn at bottom edge and end at the top of the other side of contrast leaving top edge open.

10. Press Hook and Look Tape/Velcro™ together at top edge and use for wet items, toiletries and other personal items.

11. This item can be monogrammed using a commercial embroidery machine or with vinyl precut letters.

Apparel and Textile Production I Summer 2015