Instructions and free patterns www.mybernette.com “Romantic style” project sewing instructions Frilly blouse Sizes 3434––––4242 European (4(4(4-(4 ---1212 US/6US/6----1414 UK) You'll need - 1.2m (1 3/8 yd) pink taffeta (fabric width 1.5m (5')) - 0.45m (½ yd) white tulle (fabric width 1.5m (5')) - 0.50 m (1/2 yd) pink voile (fabric width 1.5m (5')) - 1.5m (1 2/3 yd) satin ribbon, approx. 4mm (1/6") wide - Assorted sewing and embroidery threads in pink - Embroidery stabilizer for the facing - Spray adhesive - Sewing thread to match the color of the fabric - Gathering foot - Cording foot Fabric rerecommendationcommendation Taffeta or other shiny, slightly crisp fabric for the blouse. Sheer fabrics that can be gathered with the gathering foot for the frills. Good to know The decorative stitches will cause the fabric to shrink slightly, so be sure to add 2.5cm (1") seam allowance to the outer facing when cutting it out. After embellishing the facing with decorative stitching, reposition the paper pattern on the stitched fabric and trim the seam allowance to 1.5cm (5/8"). Cutting out Seam allowanceallowancess ––– When cutting out, add 1.5cm (5/8") seam allowance to all edges and the hem, and 1cm (3/8") to armhole curves. Pink taffeta 2 x front 1 x back to fabric fold 2 x facing 2 x belt loops: 1.5cm x 8cm (5/8" x 3 ¼"), including seam allowance 1 x belt: 8cm x 66cm (3 ¼" x 26"), including seam allowance 2 x bias binding for armhole, cut on cross-grain: 4cm x 47cm (1 5/8" x 18 1/2") Sheer voile, taffetataffeta,,,, or tulle Tear or cut (depending on the fabric's texture) 2cm- (7/8"-) wide strips for the frill on the facing. Gather the strips with the gathering foot (see user instructions for the foot). Stitch the finished strips together to yield a single strip with a total length of approx. 1.5m (5'). How to proceed Closing and neatening the seams 1. Close shoulder seams; press the allowances apart and neaten. Neaten the outer edge of the lower facing. 2. Close the bust darts as marked on the pattern piece and press them downwards. Binding the armholes 3. Bias-bind the armholes. For this, press the bias binding in half and place it right sides together along the armhole with one edge flush with the armhole edge. Stitch the bias binding to the armhole 1cm (3/8") in from the edge. Trim the seam allowances and notch them in the curves. Turn the bias binding over onto the wrong side of the armhole and stitch it on all around approx. 8mm (1/3") in from the edge. Embellishing and attaching the facing 4. Spray a little adhesive onto the cut-out embroidery stabilizers and place them under the outer facing. 5. Embellish the facing with assorted decorative stitches and sewing threads. Use the cording foot to couch the cords and ribbons and attach the frilly trim with a straight stitch. Give free rein to your imagination. Try out the decorative stitches on a remnant of stabilized fabric first if wished. Reduce the thread tension slightly if the stitches cause the fabric to pucker. 6. Cut out the embellished facing as described at the beginning of these instructions, then place it right sides together on the lower facing. Stitch both facings together along the center front edge. Turn the facing right side out, press the edges, and edge-stitch along the neckline if necessary. Vordere Mitte = Center front 7. Sew the (embellished) outer facing to the blouse with right sides together. Turn the facing right side out, press the seam allowance into the front facing, and stitch the inner facing in the ditch from the right side. Belt loops and belt 8. Fold under both edges of each belt loop by 5mm (1/4"). Press, then sew with a zigzag stitch (finished width of each strip = 5mm or ¼"). Make two loops for the belt and pin them to the side seams approx. 4cm (1 5/8") below the waistline marking. Now close the side seams, including the loops as you stitch them. 9. Fold belt in half lengthwise. Fold the seam allowances under on the long and short edges. Press, then edge-stitch the entire belt together. Draw the belt through the loops. Hem 10. Fold under and press the hem 5mm (1/4"), then 1cm (3/8"). Hem with a straightstitch approx. 8mm (1/3") in from the edge. FrillFrillyyyy skirt Sizes 34–42 European (4-12 US/6-14 UK) You'll need - 0.8 m (7/8 yd) pink taffeta, 1.5m (5') wide - Tulle, voile or sheer taffeta remnant for frill on facing - 1.4m (1 5/8 yd) cord approx. 4mm (1/6") wide, and thin satin ribbon for decoration - 5-8 small glass beads - In-seam zipper, 22cm (8 2/3") long - Sewing thread to match the color of the fabric - Gathering foot - Walking foot - Invisible-zipper foot Fabric recommendation For the skirt/outer sections – Taffeta or other shiny, slightly crisp fabric. For the lining/petticoat – Sheer, stiff fabric such as taffeta, voile or tulle. Good to know To achieve a trendy effect, the tulle or voile underskirts are not hemmed, but merely cut off or torn, eliminating the need to add on a hem allowance along the bottom edges of the voile or tulle. Depending on the fabric thickness, a fairly thin interfacing may be necessary for the yoke. Cutting out For the skirt: PPPinkPink taffeta 2 x front yoke to fabric fold 2 x back yoke to fabric fold 2 x strip (30cm x 146cm (12" x 59")) for the bottom skirt panel For the petticoat: White tulle 1 x strip (28cm x 146cm (11" x 59") for the middle skirt panel 2 x strip (16cm x 146cm (6 ½" x 59") for the bottom skirt panel Pink voile 3 x strip (12cm x 146cm (5" x 59") for the bottom skirt panel For the unattached frills that hang down, tear or cut (depending on the texture of the fabric) 2cm- (4/5"-) wide strips in the entire width of the fabric. Gather the strips with the gathering foot (see user instructions for the gathering foot). Cut the frilly strips into different lengths. How to proceed Outer yoke 1. Place a front and back yoke section together with right sides facing to form the outer yoke. Stitch the left side seam closed. Press seam allowances apart and neaten. Inner yoke 2. Place the remaining front and back yoke sections right sides together to form the inner yoke. Stitch the right side seam closed and press seam allowances apart. Fold under the seam allowance on the open edge, then press and straight-stitch about 1cm (3/8”) in from the edge. Closing and gathering the skirt panels 3. Close all side seams on all skirt panels. Close the side seam on the bottom panel of the skirt up to the zipper marking only. Neaten edges if necessary and press them apart. 4. For the frilly effect, straight-stitch all top edges with a stitch length of 5mm (1/4"). Repeat 5mm (1/4") from the first stitch line. Knot the lower threads of the straight- stitched lines. 5. Skirt: With right sides facing, insert the bottom edge of the yoke into the bottom skirt panel. Pull the unknotted upper threads of the straight-stitched lines to gather the skirt panel, matching the widths of the top skirt panel to those of the yoke sections. Slip the ends of the frilly trim and satin ribbons in between at various points and pin. Knot the threads of the straight-stitched lines. Sew skirt panel to yoke. Petticoat: Gather the center skirt panel and sew it to the inner yoke. Pull the threads of the straight-stitched lines of the two bottom skirt panels to gather the panels to the same width as the bottom edge of the center skirt panel. Stitch the panels together. Zipper 6. Sew the zipper into the open side seam of the outer yoke (see user instructions for the zipper foot). Stitching skirt and lining together 7. Slip the lining into the outer skirt section right sides facing and pin to the top edge. Stitch the top edges together. Trim the seam allowances and turn the skirt right side out. Topstitch the top edge about 5mm (1/4“) in from the edge, then stitch the two skirt panels together in the ditch. 8. Stitch petticoat to zipper by hand. Completing the skirt 9. Loosen and carefully pull out all the threads from the straight-stitched lines. 10. Hang the skirt on a hanger and check whether you’d like to add more frills and satin ribbons anywhere. Cut the frills and strips you’ve already attached to the length you prefer. Roll the ends of the frills in slightly and straight-stitch the rolled ends. This stops the frills from fraying and secures the thread ends. Should you wish to add more decorative trim and ribbons, pin these to the petticoat, letting them protrude by a couple of inches or more, and stitch them on. 11. Thread a few glass beads onto the satin ribbons and knot the ends to prevent the beads from falling off. Flower bracelet Length 17cm (7”) You’ll need - Remnant of pink taffeta - Remnant of tulle, voile, or sheer taffeta for the frills on the bracelet - 5-8 small glass beads - Bracelet closure, 2cm (4/5”) wide - Sewing thread to match the color of the fabric - Gathering foot Cutting out PinPinPinkPin k taffeta 1 strip 80cm x 10cm (32"x 4”), including seam allowances, for fabric flower 1 strip 6cm x 15cm (2 ½” x 6”), including seam allowances, for fabric flower Pink voile 1 x strip, 2cm (4/5“) wide, for frill on bracelet.