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Jamie Updated Text 250cm (L) 140cm 110cm E 43cm J C A 8B D J B27.5cm 4B F B F K 6A 58cm 2B 34.5cm 5a. SLEEVE 7B 7.5 E Fold 59cm 36.5cm 3B 9. Strap 50cm G 97cm 11.5cm 91cm I 4A 23.5cm 13. COLLAR A H I 3A 43cm J 14. Strap D 75cm 8.5 13. COLLAR Fold 14. Strap J 3.5 6B FRONT RIGHT 36cm 10cm Fold 140cm 54cm 50cm (W) 7.5 cm G F 7.5 43cm D cm 34.5cm G 43.5cm 8A 34.5cm 5b. FRONT LEFT C SLEEVE 16. I D 7A 8.5 30cm F 22.5cm 2.5 C J B 8.5 K 69cm G H 9. Strap 7.5cm 2A J Fold J 35.5cm 43cm BUTTON C 1. MAIN BODICE 10. LONG BELT STRAP Fold 10cm 58cm 11. 70cm <---> BACK RIGHT G G 5.5cm A H 12. LAPELS K 15. K 20cm 91cm B BACK LEFT 12. LAPELS FACING I 27 A 23 G G 50cm 45cm 45cm 20cm Paper Pattern Same Edge Colour: Seam Join Fabric: Lyco Linen 50% TENCEL, 50% Organic Cotton Linen : Fold Scale 1:10 Width 140, Length 250 cm (100 inches) : Placing Paper Size: A4 : Dimensions : Bias tape Moth Trench Coat by Jamie Han JAMIE 21. Pin the ‘I’ straps to 1(MB) at point ‘I’ along the at edge, right sides touching. Sew at 1cm. Repeat for the other ‘I’ strap. 22. Sew 2 belt loops. using the remaining fabric at the side of the Long Belt Strap at pont I and I on MB. Cut out pattern, include seam allowances. 23. Attach belt loops at point 11. The long Belt strap will t through them later on. MAIN BODICE COLLAR + FACING 1. Sew piece 2a to the Front Right slanted edge ‘D’ of 1(Main Bodice/MB) with a French seam. 24. After interfacing the collar piece (Use 2x Collar 13.), place the right sides together and stitch 1cm 2. Repeat for piece 2b on the other side. along the collar edges as shown on cutting pattern. Turn it inside out and then topstitch along the edge at 0.5cm. 3. Sew piece 3b to piece 4b along edge ‘E’ at 1cm allowance. Overlock or Zigzag 25. After interfacing the lapel piece (Use second lapel piece to make 2x lapel), place the right sides together stitch edge ‘E’ to nish it. and stitch 1cm along the curved edges as shown in pattern. Turn it inside out and then topstitch along the edge at 0.5cm. 4. Double fold hem (0.5cm+0.5cm) all 6 edges (excluding edge ‘B’) of [3b + 4b]. 26. Pin both lapel pieces to 1(MB) along slanted edge ‘G’ right sides touching on both sides. 5. Repeat steps for attaching [3a to 4a]. 27. Pin Collar piece to 1(MB) along neckline ‘H’. Collar and lapel pieces should ‘meet’ at the seam 6. Double fold hem the 3 edges (excluding edge ‘A’) of pieces 6a and 6b. allowance stitch point. (there will be some hand sewing needed later on.) 7. Pin 6b and 4b along the BACK right slanted edge ‘A’ & ‘B’ of 1(MB). 28. Now for facing. Overlock all edges of the facing pieces. 8. Pin 6a and 4a along the BACK left slanted edge ‘A’ & ‘B’ of 1(MB). 29. Sew the 7a.Upper Facing (L) piece and 7b.Upper Facing (R) piece to Square piece along edge ‘K’. 9. Make sure they align nicely side by side with no gaps. 30. Trim edge ‘H’ of the square piece a little for it to be curved matching the neckline of 1(MB). 10. Sew the pieces along the > at 1cm allowance. 31. Pin [ Upper Facing (L) + Square piece + Upper Facing (R) ] to the neckline (edge G H G) above You can overlock/zigzag stitch / bias tape seam to nish it. the collar and lapel pieces, right (printed) sides touching. 32. Pin 8a (L) to piece 2b and 8b (R) to piece 2a along the edges ‘F’. Connect them on the main bodice at D. BELT / STRAP PIECES 33. Now all layers are sandwiched together by pins, topstitch at 1cm seam allowance to secure the front opening neckline. 11. Fold 10. (Long Belt Strap) in half lengthwise and sew at 1cm seam allowance. Snip notches at the rounded neckline if you have to. Alternatively you can overlock the seam narrower to 0.7cm. 12. Turn the tube inside out and sew 2 straight lines at 0.5cm from the edge to 34. Turn the Facing pieces in, straighten out the seam and iron them at. Top stitch the 3 layers at 0.5cm along secure the strap atly. Remember to turn the 2 ends in to sew down so it becomes the neckline and down the opening lines. a Belt with no raw openings. 35. Overlock around piece 16. Thorax Facing. Sew it to 15. Square back facing at the bottom. 13. Fold Pieces ‘14. Side front straps’ in half lengthwise + one side of the width, and sew at 36. Double fold hem (0.5+0.5cm) around the remaining raw edges on the main bodice and long edges of 2a and 2b.: 1cm seam allowance. 14. Turn the tube inside out and sew 2 straight lines at 0.5cm from the edge to secure the strap atly. SLEEVES 15. Overlock the raw width edge. (this is the ‘I’ Strap) 37. Sleeves: French seam the under arm edges together. 16. Repeat for the other strap piece. (attached at I to 1.MB on both sides later) 38. Double fold and hem the sleeve opening and the ^ pointed lines carefully, as it is cut on bias and might warp if stretched. 17. Fold Pieces 9. Center front straps in half widthwise and sew 2 straight lines at 1cm seam 39. Interface the triangle and overlock the edges. Attach it on the ^ part of the sleeve by topstitching a triangle down. allowance along length. 40. Mark a buttonhole placement on the ^ edge as ‘C’ 18. Turn the tube inside out and sew 2 straight lines at 0.5cm from the edge to secure the strap atly. 41. Interface point C of the main bodice on the wrong side at both shoulders. 19. Overlock the raw width edge. (this is the J strap) Repeat for the other ‘J’ strap piece. 42. Sew 2 buttons at that point per side. (The sleeve is therefore detachable and can be worn from either under or above.) 20, Pin the ‘J’ straps to 1(MB) at point ‘J’ along the at edge, right sides touching. 43. Done! Sew at 1cm. Repeat for the other ‘J’ strap. Description of pattern 1. Main Bodice 4a. Back Left Middle Wing 7a.Inner Facing Left 9. Center Front Straps x 2 14. Side Front Straps x 2 2a. Front Right Wing 4b. Back Right Middle Wing 7b. Inner Facing Right 10. Long Belt Strap 15. Square Back Facing 2b. Front Left Wing 5a. Right Sleeve cing Left 11. Belt Loops x 2 16. Thorax Facing 3a. Back Left Outer Wing 5b. Left Sleeve 8b. Inner Facing Right 12. Lapels x 4 3b. Back Right Outer Wing 6a. Back Left Inner Wing 13. Collar x 2 6b. Back Right Inner Wing Interfaced > Applique to triangle x 2 this position.
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