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Construction Manual Nordstrom Product Group CONSTRUCTION MANUAL • 1901 – Calibrate – JWN – Nordstrom Signature – Nordstrom Men’s Shop – The Rail – Treasure & Bond – 14th & Union – Broletto – Public Opinion – Nordstrom Rack – Wallin & Bros MAY 2019 In reviewing the Construction manual table of content, please reference below diagram to locate the accurate page. Our naming format is as below: “ 1 – W – pockets – A ” 1st portion is the number of the top main category. (1 for Tops, 2 for Bottoms, 3 for 2pc/Dresses, 4 for General) 2nd portion is the letter for the fabric type. (W for woven, K for Knits, S for Sweaters, G for General) 3rd portion is the descriptive file name 4th portion is the end letter for variations “1-W-Sleeve Setting-A” for example: this is a construction method for a Top, made with woven fabric, on how to set sleeves, construction variance A As always, please contact your technical designer should you have any questions. Table of Contents Men’s 1-G-Full Zip Front Sleepwear 1 1-G-Shoulder Pad Set-A 2 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-D 3 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-E 4 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-F 5 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-G 6 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-H 7 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-I 8 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-J 9 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-K 10 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-L 11 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-M 12 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-N 13 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-O 14 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-P 15 1-K-Neck quality point 16 1-K-Neck types 17 1-K-Placket quality point 18 1-K-Placket variation 19 1-K-Pocket-Hanging Pocket Bag- Quality Point 20 1-K-Raglan Seam Finishes-A 21 1-K-Shoulder Seam-B 22 1-K-Sleeve Body Construction 23 1-S-Armhoe Shaping Standards 24 1-S-Hanging Pocket Bag Standards 25 1-S-Matching Plaid, Stripe or Patterns 26 1-S-Matching Standards 27 1-S-Neck Construction Standards-A 28 1-S-Neck Construction Standards-B 29 1-S-Sleeve and Bottom Opening Standards 30 1-S-Sweater Shoulder Construction-A 31 1-S-Sweater Shoulder Construction-B 32 1-W-Back Lining 33 1-W-Back Vent Lining Construction-A 34 1-W-Collars on jackets 35 1-W-Collars-B 36 1-W-Cuff and Sleeve Placket-B 37 1-W-Front Lining 38 1-W-Hem Finish-C 39 1-W-Interlining on Collar Bands 40 1-W-Interlining on Lined Jackets 41 1-W-Interlining Standards 42 1-W-Jacket Darts 43 1-W-Lapel and collar on jacket 44 1-W-Lapel basting 45 1-W-Lining Construction Standards 46 1-W-Matching Plaid Standards-B 47 1-W-Matching Plaid, Stripe or Patterns-C 48 1-W-Placket and Shaped Facing-D 49 1-W-Pockets Inside Leather Jacket 50 1-W-Pockets Inside of Pocket Flaps and Epaulettes 51 1-W-Pockets Inside-A 52 1-W-Pockets Inside-B 53 1-W-Pockets Patch Pockets-B 54 1-W-Pockets Welt Pockets 55 1-W-Seam Binding Unlined Jackets 56 1-W-Sleeve Lining Join at Hem 57 1-W-Sleeve Setting, Sleeve Head and Fusing 58 1-W-Sleeve Vent Construction on Jackets 59 1-W-Smart Care Taping Standards 60 1-W-Standard Seam Shell & Lining 61 1-W-Taping for Suiting-A 62 1-W-Taping for Suiting-B 63 1-W-Tux Standard 64 1-W-Unlined Jacket Hem 65 1-W-Yoke seam 66 2-K-Seam finish 67 2-W-Alterable CB Standard-A 68 2-W-Body Join Seams 69 2-W-Crotch Piece Standard 70 2-W-Lining Standards-B 71 2-W-Pockets Back Pockets-B 72 2-W-Pockets Back Pockets-C 73 2-W-Pockets Coin Pocket-B 74 2-W-Pockets Front Pockets-A 75 2-W-Waist Pleat Standard 76 2-W-Waistband-N 77 2-W-Zipper Fly Closure Terminology-A 78 2-W-Zipper Fly Closure Terminology-B 79 4-G-Bead and Sequin 80 4-G-Beltloops-B 81 4-G-Beltloops-D 82 4-G-Button Set Quality Points 83 4-G-Button Setting Method-A 84 4-G-Button Setting Method-B 85 4-G-Buttonholes and Button Position-A 86 4-G-Buttonholes Types and Size 87 4-G-Collar Band Button and buttonhole Placement 88 4-G-Fabric handling 89 4-G-Grainline direction dress and sports Shirt-A 90 4-G-Grainline direction dress and sports Shirt-B 91 4-G-Grainline sweater 92 4-G-Hanger loop coats 93 4-G-Hardware Attachment 94 4-G-Pressing-A 95 4-G-Pressing-B 96 4-G-Pressing-C 97 4-G-Pressing-F 98 4-G-Pressing-G 99 4-G-Spare Button Placement-A 100 4-G-Spare Button Placement-B 101 4-G-Spare Button Placement-C 102 4-G-Spare Button Placement-D 103 4-G-Stitch Per Inch-C 104 4-G-Stitch Per Inch-D 105 4-G-Stitch Per Inch-E 106 4-G-Stitch Per Inch-G 107 4-G-Stitch Terminology 108 4-K-Seam Construction Standards-A 109 4-S-Buttonholes and Button Position-A 110 4-S-Buttonholes and Button Position-B 111 4-W-Standard Seam Types 112 FULL ZIP FRONT STYLES Quality Point Set zipper pull at wearer’s right hand side. Zipper’s left and right side front panels must be balanced at neck seam, neck, and bottom opening. Set interlining CF and neck facing. If buttons are used, set all buttonholes direction per spec pack callout. 001 SHOULDER PAD SET STANDARDS Shoulder Pad Quality Use approved quality for shoulder pads. For unlined jackets, shoulder pads must be covered. Shoulder Pad Setting in Sleeve Place the pad so that pad extends past the armhole stitch line, follow specific direction from TD. 002 Crew Seam Finishes - Bound Neck Edge: 3 Needle Bottom Cover stitch at Edge Binding with 3 needle bottom cover stitch at edge Binding - inside no turn 3 Needle bottom cover stitch at edge 003 Crew Seam Finishes - Bound Neck Edge: Binding With Single Thread Chain Stitch Binding with single thread chain stitch Binding - inside turned under Single thread chain stitch 004 Crew Seam Finishes - Inset Neck Trim: 2 Needle Bottom Cover stitch straddling seam Inset with 2 needle bottom cover stitch straddling seam Inset Neck Trim 2 Needle bottom cover stitch straddling seam 005 Crew Seam Finishes - Inset Neck Trim: 3 Needle 5 Thread Cover stitch Straddling Seam Inset trim with 3 needle 5 thread cover stitch straddling seam Inset Neck Trim 3 Needle 5 Thread cover stitch straddling seam 006 Crew Seam Finishes - Inset Neck Trim: 2 Needle 4-Thread Cover stitch Straddling Seam Inset trim with 2 needle 4 thread cover stitch straddling seam Inset Neck Trim 2 needle 4 thread cover stitch straddling seam 007 Crew Seam Finishes - Inset Neck Trim: Single Thread chain Stitch Inset trim with single thread chain stitch on body at edge Inset Neck Trim Single thread chain stitch 008 Crew Seam Finishes - Inset Neck Trim: Single Thread chain and Back Trim Inset trim with single thread chain stitch on body at edge and trim covering back neck join seam Trim covers back neck join seam Inset Neck Trim Single thread chain stitch 009 V Neckline Finishes - Mitered Inset Neck Trim 2 Needle Bottom Cover Stitch Straddling Seam 2 needle bottom cover stitch straddling seam Inset Neck Trim 2 Needle Bottom cover stitch straddling seam Mitered V Neck 010 V Neckline Finishes - Mitered Inset Neck Trim 3 Needle 5 Thread Cover Stitch Straddling Seam 3 needle 5 thread cover stitch straddling seam Inset Neck Trim 3 Needle 5 Thread cover stitch straddling seam Mitered V Neck 011 V Neckline Finishes - Lapped Inset Neck Trim 2 Needle 4 Thread Cover Stitch Inside Needle on Join Seam 2 needle 4 thread cover stitch inside needle on join seam Inset Neck Trim 2 Needle 4 Thread cover stitch inside needle on join seam Lapped V Neck 012 V Neckline Finishes - Lapped Inset Neck Trim Lock stitch at edge Inset Neck Trim Lock stitch at edge Lapped V Neck 013 Necklines - Neck Edge Finish Requirement for Neck Extended Minimum 12” on the half measure (24” total) Inside Binding - Clean finish with designated fabric bias set to inside - Refer to VCS for binding width Turn and under stitch to inner binding and close with Single Needle Chain Stitch Type #401 or if binding is on fold, turn under to inside and single needle topstich down at designated width Quality Points - Neckline edge must be smooth and flat - Binding must not have roping or be puckered Inside Binding #1 #2A Or #2B #3 Note: Follow VCS for style specific directions. 014 Necklines - Neck Edge Finish Requirement for Neck Extended Minimum 12” on the half measure (24” total) Neck Binding - 1/4” binding set with Single Needle Chain Stitch Type #401 Quality Points - Neckline edge must be smooth and flat - Binding must not have roping or be puckered Seam Type BSc Binding 015 Neckline Quality Point Acceptable shaped neckline Unacceptable shaped neckline 016 NECK TYPES Rib or Self ▪ Set rib trim to body with 4 thread Trim overlock. ▪ tape. Flat Knit ▪ Set rib trim to body with 4-thread Collar overlock ▪ tape. Self Fabric ▪ Collar w/o band Self or ▪ contrast fabric collar w/ band X XXXX X XX XXXX ▪ X Hoodie x ▪ Set rib trim to body with 4-thread U Rib and Self U overlock with or without top stitch.
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