Lesson 5: Design to Product
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Convertible Collar Construction
Convertible Collar Construction Directory Click any image to go to that section Yoke/Facing Options: Intro and Gallery By far the most common set-up for a The purpose of this introductory section is to convertible-collar shirt is that it has front facings feature and compare the range of other options and a yoke, and that these two details don’t touch, also, if less commonly, in use beyond this classic as in the example at right. one, before I proceed to work step-by-step through a handful of useful variants . Many other possible That is, the facings don’t extend far enough combinations, and of course, variations on the towards the shoulders at the neckline that they’ll ones here, are conceiveable and may suit your meet with or join to the fronts of the yoke layers. As project better, so feel free to experiment. a result, the yoke construction steps aren’t integrated into the collar steps and are completed, in front at least, before the collar is begun, so the options for using the yoke as a back facing are eliminated. The steps for this classic arrangement are described below in Variation #5, in the Front Facing Only category. Collar Insertion Options Step-By-Step No Yoke or Facings Required Front facings Only Front and Back Facings, or Yoke Used as Facing Variation 1: Collar Applied as Band Variation 3: Collar’s Back Neckline Edge-Stitched Variation 6: Back Facings 1 3 and Facings Secured at Shoulder Seams 6 Options: Options: 1. Edge-stitched neckline 2. -
TREND SETTER 205464 ADORNED 215482 FEMME 1 $425 5 $325 FUCHSIA-CAMPARI RED-DEEP FUCHSIA Stretch Crepe Sheath RED Bi-Colored Twill Embellished with Sheer Lace Trim
1 TREND SETTER 205464 ADORNED 215482 FEMME 1 $425 5 $325 FUCHSIA-CAMPARI RED-DEEP FUCHSIA stretch crepe sheath RED bi-colored twill embellished with sheer lace trim. Fitted. military jacket with sequined Shaped with bust darts, ribbon trim. Regular fit. Shaped princess seams, waist seams, with front and back princess side seams and center back seams. Stand collar with Red seam. Jewel neckline, short velvet facing, hook-and-eye raglan sleeves, pencil skirt, closures, long sleeves with hidden back zipper, hook-and- deep satin-faced vented three eye closure. Sheer lace, dyed snap cuffs. Banded hem patch to match lining at shoulders pockets at chest. Sequined and side panels from hip-to- ribbon trim at collar, placket, hem, sleeves unlined. 2” hem. pockets, cuffs and satin-piped Back vent. Fully lined. Length: hem. Shoulder pads. Fully lined. 23”. Sizes 00-16. Length: 20 1/2 ”. Sizes 00-16. 67% polyester, 29% viscose, 42% acrylic, 26% polyester, 4% elastane 17% wool, 15% viscose 2 | 8 | 10 | 2 | 8 | 10 | 4 | 6 8 | 2/14 | 8 | 6 | 10 | 4 | 12/0 | 10 203318 ARTISTRY 205475 RADIANT 210475 ROMANTIC 2 $225 6 $495 9 $195 FUCHSIA-CAMPARI RED– CAMPARI RED-FUCHSIA- FUCHSIA rayon-blend jersey SAPPHIRE BLUE-AUBURN- BLACK-DEEP RED-AUBURN sweater with point d’esprit lace BLACK Paisley print on silk large Paisley printed stretch mesh trim. Regular fit. Jewel georgette cami with scarf cotton velveteen tie-belted neckline with small knit bow neckline. Regular fit. Shaped trench jacket. Regular fit. Shaped and lace mesh insert at yoke, with bust darts, gathers at with front and back princess long sleeves. -
My Bernette Sewing Machine Mastery Workbook – B37
MASTERY BOOK SERIES SEWING MACHINES BERNETTE SEWING MACHINE WORKBOOK For bernette models b37 and b38 ©2017. Permission granted to copy and distribute in original form only. Content may not be altered or used in any other form or under any other branding. TABLE OF CONTENTS Introduction ........................................... 3 Sewing Machine Needles ...................... 4 Thread .................................................... 6 bernette Presser Feet ............................ 7 Stitch Selection ...................................... 8 Securing Stitches ................................... 9 Turning Corners ..................................... 10 Zigzag Stitch .......................................... 11 Blind Hem .............................................. 12 Triple Straight Stitch ............................. 13 Overlock Stitch ...................................... 14 Stretch Stitch ......................................... 15 Buttonholes .......................................... 16 Attaching Buttons ................................. 17 Stitching Zippers .................................... 18 Decorative Stitching .............................. 19 Satin Stitching ....................................... 20 Stitch Combinations/Memory ............... 21 Alphabets ............................................... 22 The information in this workbook applies to bernette models: b37 and b38. Double Needle Stitching ....................... 23 Note: Some exercises apply only to certain models Supplies ................................................. -
That Was a T-Shirt!!! We Need Tops! While Cotton Tops Are Easy to Make, Knit Tops Are the Most Versatile Due to the Forgiving Stretch
That was a t-shirt!!! We need tops! While cotton tops are easy to make, knit tops are the most versatile due to the forgiving stretch. Because of the challenges in working with knit fabric, updating a t-shirt is the perfect compromise. Our goal is to have someone look at our top and say “that was a t-shirt?!” All hemlines need to be removed and restyled and the neckline needs to be either ruffled (size small and some medium) or trimmed. Here are some guidelines that we are looking for. Simply sewing a decorative stitch or zigzag over the existing hemline (sleeves and bottom hem) does not make visual changes to the t-shirt. Please cut off the existing hemline and if you like, you can make it shorter. If you have a serger, you can finish the edge prior to hemming but because the knit does not ravel it is not necessary. You also do not need to turn over the edge prior to hemming. Sleeves Match the sleeves and cut off both hems at the same time. You can cut straight or at an angle and make it a cap sleeve Use a decorative stitch for the hemming, variegated thread looks great! Use either white or black thread in the bottom as variegated thread is expensive. Remember to sew on the right side with your finger on the bottom feeling for the fabric edge. Watch for those sales and coupons!! Sulky blendables, 30 weight, 100% cotton is very nice to use. If you hem with a straight stitch, make it a little longer perhaps 3.0 and add some elastic to make it gathered at the hem edge. -
Lesson Guide Princess Bodice Draping: Beginner Module 1 – Prepare the Dress Form
Lesson Guide Princess Bodice Draping: Beginner Module 1 – Prepare the Dress Form Step 1 Apply style tape to your dress form to establish the bust level. Tape from the left apex to the side seam on the right side of the dress form. 1 Module 1 – Prepare the Dress Form Step 2 Place style tape along the front princess line from shoulder line to waistline. 2 Module 1 – Prepare the Dress Form Step 3A On the back, measure the neck to the waist and divide that by 4. The top fourth is the shoulder blade level. 3 Module 1 – Prepare the Dress Form Step 3B Style tape the shoulder blade level from center back to the armhole ridge. Be sure that your guidelines lines are parallel to the floor. 4 Module 1 – Prepare the Dress Form Step 4 Place style tape along the back princess line from shoulder to waist. 5 Lesson Guide Princess Bodice Draping: Beginner Module 2 – Extract Measurements Step 1 To find the width of your center front block, measure the widest part of the cross chest, from princess line to centerfront and add 4”. Record that measurement. 6 Module 2 – Extract Measurements Step 2 For your side front block, measure the widest part from apex to side seam and add 4”. 7 Module 2 – Extract Measurements Step 3 For the length of both blocks, measure from the neckband to the middle of the waist tape and add 4”. 8 Module 2 – Extract Measurements Step 4 On the back, measure at the widest part of the center back to princess style line and add 4”. -
Placket Construction Options
Placket Construction Options 1 Type1: Two Separate Bound Edges on a rectangular stitching box The key to this structure is that the bindings are initially stitched only to the seam allowances on each side, and NOT stitched across the end, of the clipped box, which means that they, and the clipped triangle at the bottom, remain loose and can be arranged before the nal nishing to go on either side of the fabric, as well as either over or under the other, after joining them at the sides. The widths and lengths of the bindings and the space between the sides of the clipped box determine all the other options available in this most exible of all the placket types I know of. Variation 1: Both bindings t inside the stitching box If you cut the bindings so the nished, folded widths of both are equal to or smaller than the space between the initial stitching lines, as shown above, you can arrange both ends at the clipped corners to all go on one side of the fabric (right or wrong side), along with the clipped triangle on the garment. You’ll get the best results if the underlapping binding is slightly smaller than the overlapping one. This can be man- aged by taking slightly deeper seam allowances when you join this piece, so they can initially be cut from the same strip. Or, you can place one end on each side with the Both ends on RS One end on RS, Both ends on WS triangle sandwiched in between. -
Info/How to Examine an Antique Painting.Pdf
How to Examine an Antique Painting by Peter Kostoulakos Before we can talk about the examination process, an overview of how to handle an oil painting is necessary to prevent damage to the work and liability for the appraiser. The checklist below is essential for beginning appraisers to form a methodical approach to examining art in the field without heavy, expensive equipment. Although the information may seem elementary for seasoned appraisers, it can be considered a review with a few tips to organize your observational skills. When inspecting an antique painting, as with any antique, a detailed on the spot, examination should take place. A small checklist covering composition, support, paint layers, varnish, and frame is necessary. Also, a few tools such as a UV lamp, magnifiers, camera, soft brush, cotton swabs, and tape measure are needed. A "behind the scenes" investigation can tell you a great deal about the painting. The name of the artist, title of the painting, canvas maker, date of canvas and stretcher, exhibitions and former owners are some of the things that may be revealed upon close examination. Document your examination with notes and plenty of photographs. Handling Art Older paintings should be thought of as delicate babies. We need to think about the consequences before we pick one up. To prevent acidic oil from our skin to be transferred to paintings and frames, we must cover our hands with gloves. Museum workers have told me that they feel insecure using white, cotton gloves because their grip becomes slippery. I tried the ceremonial gloves used in the military to grip rifles while performing. -
Shower Curtain Gown Pattern " " 46 43.5
SHOWER CURTAIN GOWN PATTERN " " 46 43.5 FRONT BACK Opens in Back FRHS.ORG GOWN INSTRUCTIONS ITEMS NEEDED: A. 1 - 72" x 70" polyester, water resistant shower curtain. B. Thread, pins, scissors etc. C. Pattern and instructions 1. Beware that this pattern and instructions are designed to be simple and fast. The gown is for function and protection not style; this means that there are some short cuts that you may not normally use in your sewing. 2. The sleeve is designed with a “thumb hole”; the staff will place their thumb into the hole as they don the gown. This holds the sleeve down over their hand as they put on their gloves so that they are better protected. The “thumb hole” is formed by using the seam allowance of the bottom 3" of the seam to bind the edges and leave that 3" open. 3. You will leave all of the hems in place and use them as the edges of the gown EXCEPT for the top of the curtain with the holes for the shower curtain hooks. That you may remove and discard. 4. The pattern is in two pieces; you will cut one piece of the main body (placed on the fold of material) and 2 sleeves. 5. Lay the curtain out on a flat surface. Fold over 29" along the side of the curtain (see cutting diagram). 6. Place the main body of the pattern as marked with the center front on the fold an pin in place. One edge of the back is formed by the hemmed side of the gown. -
HEG88-237 Sewing with Stripes
University of Nebraska - Lincoln DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln Historical Materials from University of Nebraska-Lincoln Extension Extension 1988 HEG88-237 Sewing With Stripes Rose Marie Tondl University of Nebraska - Lincoln Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/extensionhist Part of the Agriculture Commons, and the Curriculum and Instruction Commons Tondl, Rose Marie, "HEG88-237 Sewing With Stripes" (1988). Historical Materials from University of Nebraska-Lincoln Extension. 1401. https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/extensionhist/1401 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Extension at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Historical Materials from University of Nebraska-Lincoln Extension by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. HEG88-237 Sewing With Stripes Sewing with stripes is easier when you know what pitfalls to avoid. This Guide covers pattern selection, yardage requirements, stripe strategies and more. Rose Marie Tondl -- Extension Clothing Specialist z Pattern Selection z Yardage Requirements z Stripe Strategy z The Match Game with Crosswise Stripes z The Match Game with Lengthwise Stripes z Diagonally Striped Fabric z Pleating a Stripe z Sewing Techniques Any way you line them up, stripes make a striking fashion statement. You can be as bold or as subtle as you like with stripes. Nothing gives a garment less appeal than stripes that do not meet and match at seams. Simply defined, a stripe is a band or line which may be wide, narrow or in-between. Stripes can be horizontal vertical or diagonal, even or uneven, and one color, two color or multicolor. -
WRAP DRESS a DIY Pattern for Use with Alabama Stitch Book, Alabama Studio Style, Alabama Studio Sewing + Design, and Alabama Studio Sewing Patterns
WRAP DRESS A DIY pattern for use with Alabama Stitch Book, Alabama Studio Style, Alabama Studio Sewing + Design, and Alabama Studio Sewing Patterns theschoolofmaking.alabamachanin.com © Alabama Chanin™ 2017 Wrap Dress Instructions 1. Baste Neckline and Armholes To ensure that the neckline and armholes don’t stretch while you’re constructing your garment, use a single strand of all-purpose thread to baste around the neckline and curved edges of each piece. 2. Add Embroidery If you choose to stencil and/or embroider your project, add this to the right side of the cut Wrap Dress top-layer pieces, and let stenciled images dry thoroughly before proceeding. Add embellishment as desired. Use one of our Alabama Studio Series books for inspiration. If you’re adding beading, avoid beading in the 1/4” seam allowance. 3. Prepare for Construction After completing embellishment, choose Inside or Outside Floating or Felled Seams (see our Alabama Studio Book Series) for your garment. You will pin with fabric’s wrong sides together for seams visible on the outside of the garment or with fabric’s right sides together for seams that are finished on the inside of the garment. When pinning knit seams for construction, it is important to follow a method we call “pinning the middle.” With right sides together for inside seams and wrong sides together for outside seams, start by pinning the top of your seam, and follow by pinning the bottom of your seam. After pinning both top and bottom, place one pin in the middle, between the two initial pins. -
Taking Shape DARTS ADD SHAPE TURNING a FLAT PIECE of FABRIC INTO a THREE-DIMENSIONAL FORM to MATCH the CONTOURS of the BODY LINDA TURNER GRIEPENTROG
Techniques Taking Shape DARTS ADD SHAPE TURNING A FLAT PIECE OF FABRIC INTO A THREE-DIMENSIONAL FORM TO MATCH THE CONTOURS OF THE BODY LINDA TURNER GRIEPENTROG ustline, hip, waistline to tummy, elbow and shoulder. Darts can be horizontal, vertical or anywhere in between, straight or curved, but the stitching principles are the same. BThe goal of quality dart stitching is smooth, pucker-free points that don’t call attention to themselves. SHAPING A single-point dart is shaped like a triangle, and when stitched it takes a wedge of fabric out of the garment allowing for controlled fullness at the point. A single dart may be on the lengthwise fabric grain, angled or slightly curved. (1) A double-point or contour dart is diamond or rugby ball shaped, and is used to shape the waistline, leaving fullness at both ends for the bust and hip. (2) A French dart is a curved shape from the garment side seam to the bustline. This dart has cut edges joined like a seam. (3) V9082 Vintage Vogue, 1960. Misses’ A5(6-8-10-12-14) E5(14-16-18-20-22). Sew Rating: Average. Price code Orange. Illustrations: Theresa O’Connell Theresa Illustrations: 1 2 3 26 SEW TODAY May/June 2019 MARKING to anchor the stitches. Stitch (7) and stitch toward the point, Darts are indicated on the along the line, removing the A third technique for dart then repeat for the other pattern tissue by either solid pins as you get to them. Taper point, slightly overlapping or dashed lines and a dot the stitching to the point the beginning stitching lines at the point. -
Bonded Fabrics
L-897 BONDED FABRICS Graham Hard Kay Elmore Hazel Roberts • Fannie Brown Eaton • Joanne Thurber* • Woven wool interlining bonded to fabric for thermal qualities, body and stability. • Non-woven fabric bonded to woven face fab ric to add bulk and warmth. • Cotton knit backing bonded to face fabric to improve absorbency, bulk and drape. • Nylon net backing bonded to face fabrics such as lace to add stability and retain ap pearance of face fabric. Standards of Performance for Bonded Fabrics Manufacturers of bonded fabrics and trade as sociations are now setting standards for perform ance in bond and wear as well as performance in laundering and dry cleaning. There is a general agreement to produce qual ity bonded fabrics which: • Withstand a reasonable number of washings and drycleanings. What Are Bonded Fabrics? • Have shrinkage within a certain acceptable Bonded fabrics are made of two or more amount. already-constructed fabrics held together by wet adhesives or thin polyurethane foam. Wet bond • Do not peel, pucker, crack or bubble. ing adhesives aid in preserving the original hand • Maintain drape and ability to breathe. and drape of fabrics. Foam bonding adds body, • Do not become stiff. shape retention and thermal qualities where needed in fabrics. • Do not absorb odor. • Will resist discoloration. Types of Bonded Fabrics • Will have no surface evidence of adhesive. The original bonded fabrics combined a woven f ce fabric with an acetate knit liner. There are What Bonded Fabrics Offer the Consumer v riou bonded fabrics on the consumer market today. These include polyurethane foam, bonded • More styling and design ideas are made to face fabric or between two fabrics, and wet possible.