Fdi201 Sewing Instructions
SEWING INSTRUCTIONS
FDI201 TABLE OF CONTENT
Pattern pieces ...... 3 Pattern block ...... 4
SEWING ...... 5 1. Basting the raglan ...... 6 2. Darts ...... 6 3. Side seams ...... 7 4. Sleeves ...... 7
RAGLAN BASE FDI201 Page 2 TABLE OF CONTENTS PATTERN PIECES
Bodice Bodice Back 2 Back 1
Sleeve Sleeve Sleeve Sleeve Back 1 Front 1 Front 2 Back 2
Bodice Front
RAGLAN FABRIC PIECES
Bodice Front Bodice Back 1 Bodice Back 2 Sleeve Back 1 Sleeve Back 2 Sleeve Front 1 Sleeve Front 2
RAGLAN BASE FDI201 Page 3 PATTERN PIECES PATTERN BLOCK
raglan seam
raglan seam center back center back
torso line torso line
r a
r
m g a
a g l
a e l m a n s bust line bust line a n
e s n s e s a l a e n g a waist a m l a m
rag r darts side seam side
side seam waistline
bust bust dart dart
r
a
g m
l a
a
e
n
s
s
n center front e a underarm underarm l a underarm bottom bottom bottom bottom underarm g m r a bust line
dart waist intake darts
dart dart side seam side waistline side seam leg center
1. A block is a two dimensional template for a basic garment from that can be modied into a more elaborate design. Block are constructed using your individual measurements and do not show any style lines or seam allowance. 2. The half of the raglan base include 3/8” (1 cm) amount of allowance for ease and comfort: but it is not main chest circumference/2 + 3/8” (1 cm). 3. Fitting garment to the waist line with raglan sleeve. Have an additional seam along the outside of the arm. The front shoulder dart is transferring into the armscye.
RAGLAN BASE FDI201 Page 4 PATTERN BLOCK SEWING
Fabric key Fabric recommendations:
Challis Viscose Challis Suiting Tencel Twill
Medium (6oz-8oz / 204g - 272g)
Right side of Wrong side of Right side of Elastane 0 - 3 % fabric fabric interfacing
Laying out and cutting fabric
selvage in bias grain a r g s s o grain line r c selvage =” =” lengthwise grain selvage
1. Place the fabric on the table. 2. Place the patterns on a single layer of fabric. Be sure to place the patterns correctly following the pattern directions. 3. Place the patterns on the fabric on the grain. All pattern grainlines are placed parallel to the selvage of the fabric. 4. When the fabric is delicate and slippery, draw or pin the patterns onto a layer of pattern paper. 5. Add seam allowances. You can add your seam allowance directly onto your fabric or onto paper rst. Cutting the fabric. Snipping notches. Notches snipped in the fabric should be no longer than 1/8” (3 mm) in length.
RAGLAN BASE FDI201 Page 5 SEWING 1. BASTING THE RAGLAN
1.1
Baste the raglan for a possible tting.The raglan can be basted in the following order: 1. Baste the darts; 2. Sew all the seams; 3. Use safety pins to close up the closure, to look at the prototype (muslin) results.
2. DARTS
2.1
darts
2.2
stitch direction
Fold the dart. Match the notches and dart lines (fold by dart center line). Sew the darts. Sew starting at the raw edge. The side dart leg of the bust dart is longer than the middle dart leg. When you sew dart, you need gather side dart leg.
RAGLAN BASE FDI201 Page 6 SEWING 2.3
press toward Press the darts - waist darts should be pressed toward the the center center but the bust darts toward the hem. Always start at the broad end on the dart and press toward the point.
3. SIDE SEAMS
3.1
Sew with the right sides together side seams.
4. SLEEVES
4.1
stretch ease back front seam sleeve Stitch the underarm sleeve seam. Between the notches, back seam need ease, but front seam need stretch.
RAGLAN BASE FDI201 Page 7 SEWING 4.2
ease back sleeve
stretch front Stitch the shoulder seam of the sleeve. Between the notches, seam back seam need ease, but front seam need stretch.
4.3 ease between 1st and 2nd notch
1st 2nd 3rd
Match the notches and sew the sleeve into the bodice with the right sides together. Between the 1st and 2nd notch at the back raglan seam, this seam need ease. The total amount of ease is from 1/4” to 3/8” (6mm - 1cm)
RAGLAN BASE FDI201 Page 8 SEWING