DOCSLIB.ORG

5 Clothing Technology Eng Oc

Total Page：16

File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb

Download full-text PDF Read full-text
5 Clothing Technology Eng Oc Content Page 5.1 Garment Ease and Fitting 1 5.1.1 Garment Ease 1 5.1.2 Garment Fitting 3 5.2 Pattern construction 7 5.2.1 Measurement and Sizing 7 5.2.2 Methods of Pattern Construction 13 5.2.3 Individual and Commercial Pattern Construction 21 Process 5.3 Garment Construction 23 5.3.1 Construction of Garment Parts 23 5.3.2 Trimmings and Fastenings 58 5.4 Industrial Technologies 69 5.4.1 Industrial Sewing Machine 69 5.4.2 Laser Technology 72 5.4.3 Automatic Data Collection System 75 5.1 Garment Ease and Fitting 5.1.1 Garment Ease Garments require adequate ease to provide and allow room for movement. Ease is the extra allowance added on the body measurement in pattern construction. Ease is different between garment measurement and body measurement. The exact dimensions of the body are without any addition room for comfort or movement. There are two types of ease: Wearing Ease and Design Ease. The measurement of a garment should consider the measurement of the wearer’s body, wearing ease and design ease. Body Wearing Design Fashion Style + + = Measurement Ease Ease or Silhouette Figure 5.1 The sizing design of a fashion garment Wearing ease Design ease Figure 5.2 Wearing ease – to show the basic ease on the dress for allowing the body to move comfortable. Design ease – extra ease to add into the dress by the designer to change the silhouette. 1 (A) Wearing Ease Wearing ease (comfort ease or fitting ease) must be required in all garments for body movement. Without wearing ease, wearers will feel uncomfortable. Garments appear tight and wrinkled and wear out more quickly from the strain on seams and fabric. The major factors that affect wearing ease are (a) body movement, (b) fabric characteristics, (c) style of the garment and (d) customer preferences. (i) Body Movement Too little ease may restrict body movement and stress fabric but too much wearing ease may affect appearance of the garment. z Example for movement: The hip shape changes shape as we walk or sit down. Therefore ‘ease' must be added to the hip measurement (girth) and in the area from hip to waist (length), especially for trousers. z Example for expansion: The rib cage must expand when we breath therefore 'ease' is added to the chest /bust measurement (girth) and in the area from bust to waist (length). (ii) Fabric Characteristic Rigid fabrics are hard and stiff. They require more wearing ease than stretch fabrics. Stretch fabrics may require less comfort allowances. Fabric Characteristic Wearing Ease Stretch Fabric: - Knitted fabric (e.g. jersey, rib) - Depend on the style of garment and fabric - Woven fabric with lycra stretchability - Negative ease to be added to skin-fitted swimwear or Tee-shirt Rigid Fabric : - Must add ease allowance for body - Woven fabric (e.g. denim, twill) movement Figure 5.3 Relationship between fabric characteristics and wearing ease 2 (iii) Style of the garment Some garment requires additional amounts of ease beyond the minimum requirement, depending on the specified style and intended use. In sportswear or maternity wear, the garments are worn for a specific purpose and 'ease' must be added to allow wearers to do certain actions such as a football uniform requires more wearing ease for running and kicking the ball in the match. (iv) Wearer Preferences The amount of ease added to a pattern will affect both the fitness and silhouette of the finished garment. (B) Design Ease Design ease is extra style fullness added to wearing ease. It is added straightly for the sake of appearance, giving a garment its “style” to attract customers. The amount of design ease in a garment depends on current fashion trends and the desired style of the garment. Oversized or undersized garments are made by adopting design ease. (C) Amount of Ease The amount of ease added to a pattern will affect both the fit and silhouette of the finished garment. The basic ease allowances are suggested in the following table and are intended for pattern construction. Type of Garment Chest/Bust Ease Allowance Shirt /Blouse 10~14 cm Jacket 16~24 cm Coat 20~28 cm Figure 5.4 Example of chest/bust ease allowance for different types of garment 5.1.2 Garment Fitting Garment Fitting is how well the garment conforms to the wearer’s body. It is influenced by fashion trends, personal preferences, the usage and the function of the garment. 3 Five elements are used to evaluate the fitness of the garment. They are grain, set, balance, line and ease. (A) Grain Garments must be cut on grain. The lengthwise grain of the fabric must run parallel to the length of the body and the crosswise grain must run perpendicular to the body. Otherwise, garments will not hang straight. The seamlines may twist. (B) Set The garment with good set will be worn smoothly on the wearer’s body without any set wrinkles. Set wrinkles are always found on the oversize or undersize garments. (C) Balance The good garment must look symmetrically balance at the front or back view. The centre lines of the garment and the body must be aligned. Unbalanced garments worn unevenly on wearers will show poor postures. (D) Line The structural lines of the good garments must follow the natural lines of wearers. Out-of-line garments will show poor postures and wearers will not feel comfortable. (E) Ease Ease refers to the amount of roominess in a garment. Garments require adequate ease to provide sufficient room for body movement and show the designed style. Lack of ease will effect the movement of wearers. 4 Tense: horizontal wrinkles = too tight Loose: vertical folds=too loose Skirts too tight Jacket too tight Sleeve too loose Jacket too loose through hips through shoulders through torso Loose: horizontal Tense: vertical Diagonal wrinkles point to body bulges folds = too long wrinkles = too short Bodice too long at Pants too short in Bodice too tight Pants too tight waist crotch across bust across abdomen Figure 5.5 Wrinkles and folds indicate fit problems A good finished garment is sewn by many good fabric pieces. Fabric pieces are interrelated closely and must be produced from a carefully-made pattern. The pattern pieces must fit together and each pattern piece must be carefully checked so that the bodice front must fit to the bodice back, the collar must fit the neckline, the sleeve must fit the armhole, etc. When the garment sample is completed, it should be checked carefully on each detailed points such as seams, darts, roll of the collar and general proportions. It should then be tested the ease distribution on a live human model for movement comfortability. 5 When judging garment fit is judged, the garment should have a smooth look, without pulls or wrinkles, no sagging or baggy areas. After the garment sample has passed all these tests, the pattern can be identified as a good pattern. 6 5.2 Pattern Construction The clothing pattern are used as a guide for cutting the fabric, which when sewn together forms a wearable garment. Clothing Product Design Sketch Clothing Pattern by Tailor-making or Mass Production Figure 5.6 The role of clothing pattern in garment making 5.2.1 Measurement and Sizing (A) Body Measurement Body measurements are important for pattern construction. The accuracy will directly affect the fitness, function and comfortable of the garment. There are two methods to obtain body measurement: Direct body measurement Three- dimensional scanner (i) Direct Measurement This is a kind of traditional manual measuring method. This method is measured the dimension of human bodies by using a measuring tape. In taking measurements, they should be taken in an order, in particular, the girth measurements should be taken from the upper one and then downward to the lower positions, and no allowance should be included. It requires a high degree of skill, rich experience and is time-consuming. 7 Figure 5.7 Body measurement positions on the female figure 8 Figure 5.8 Body measurement positions on the male figure Figure 5.9 Body measurement positions on the child figure 9 (ii) Three-dimensional Scanner The latest measuring techniques use high accuracy electronic equipments such as three-dimensional scanners and computers to store and analyse data. The body must dress the tight-fitted clothing and stand inside the scanning chamber. The laser beams will scan on the body and send the data to a computer for analysis and form a three-dimensional image. A dressing-room size scanner Yellow lines illustrate measurement points of 3D body scan Figure 5.10 Measurement taken by a three-dimensional body scanner and style selection for made-to-measure 10 Advantages Disadvantages (1) Direct - Low capital cost and low - The data will be varied Measurement tool maintenance cost. from different tailors. - The measurement can be - Less measurement points taken in anywhere and than three-dimensional anytime. scanners. - Long measurement time. (2)Three-dimensional - Short measurement time - High capital cost and Scanner - High accuracy maintenance cost. - Experienced measurers - Wearers need to dress the are not necessary. tight-fitted clothing for body measurement. - The measurement must be taken in the scanning chamber. Figure 5.11 Comparison between direct measurement and three-dimensional scanners (B) Size Chart Garment size represents a set of measurements which will suit and fit a category of people when wearing the clothes. Size codes, usually in the form of numbers or alphabets are used in the size chart to indicate garment size. Some of the size codes used in different places are as follows: 11 Ladies Men Children European United United European United United European United United Kingdom States Kingdom States Kingdom States 34 6 4 46 36 36 125cm 43” 4 36 8 6 48 38 38 135cm 48” 6 38 10 8 50 40 40 150cm 55” 8 40 12 10 52 42 42 155cm 58” 10 42 14 12 54 44 44 160cm 60” 12 44 16 14 56 46 46 46 18 16 58 48 48 Different types of garment require different sets of measurements.
Load more

Recommended publications
  • Frequently Asked Questions Lockstitch Sewing Machines
    FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS LOCKSTITCH SEWING MACHINES Sewing machine operators can often help themselves when their machine does not operate properly. Here are some simple instructions, which if properly used, can save you time and mechanic’s service call. What do I check when the thread breaks? Poor thread quality (too old, or not strong enough). Check for defective needle/needles (bent or blunt). Make sure you are using the correct needle system, See owners manual. Check for the correct passing of the thread. Check thread tension, could be to tight or to loose. Check if thread has jumped out from between the tension discs. Check condition of take-up spring (check spring) Sewing area very dirty, remove needle plate and clean. Check bobbin and bobbin case for damage, replace if needed. Bobbin case may be very dirty; clean the inside of the bobbin case. Check for sharp parts or edges where the thread passes. Check for overheating needle/needles. Check hook timing. See owner’s manual. What do I check when the needles are breaking? Select correct needle size for the type of work being done, Make sure you are using the correct needle system, See owners manual. Make sure the needle is inserted correctly. Check pressure foot is inserted correctly, and lined up with needle hole. Check bobbin in bobbin case, bobbin could be spread too wide, replace with new bobbin. Check needle guard setting. See owner’s manual. Check hook timing. See owner’s manual. Is the machine the correct type for what you are trying to sew? What do I check for skipped stitches? Select correct needle size for the type of work being done.
    [Show full text]
  • HISTORY and DEVELOPMENT of FASHION Phyllis G
    HISTORY AND DEVELOPMENT OF FASHION Phyllis G. Tortora DOI: 10.2752/BEWDF/EDch10020a Abstract Although the nouns dress and fashion are often used interchangeably, scholars usually define them much more precisely. Based on the definition developed by researchers Joanne Eicher and Mary Ellen Roach Higgins, dress should encompass anything individuals do to modify, add to, enclose, or supplement the body. In some respects dress refers to material things or ways of treating material things, whereas fashion is a social phenomenon. This study, until the late twentieth century, has been undertaken in countries identified as “the West.” As early as the sixteenth century, publishers printed books depicting dress in different parts of the world. Books on historic European and folk dress appeared in the late eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. By the twentieth century the disciplines of psychology, sociology, anthropology, and some branches of art history began examining dress from their perspectives. The earliest writings about fashion consumption propose the “ trickle-down” theory, taken to explain why fashions change and how markets are created. Fashions, in this view, begin with an elite class adopting styles that are emulated by the less affluent. Western styles from the early Middle Ages seem to support this. Exceptions include Marie Antoinette’s romanticized shepherdess costumes. But any review of popular late-twentieth-century styles also find examples of the “bubbling up” process, such as inner-city African American youth styles. Today, despite the globalization of fashion, Western and non-Western fashion designers incorporate elements of the dress of other cultures into their work. An essential first step in undertaking to trace the history and development of fashion is the clarification and differentiation of terms.
    [Show full text]
  • Lesson Guide Princess Bodice Draping: Beginner Module 1 – Prepare the Dress Form
    Lesson Guide Princess Bodice Draping: Beginner Module 1 – Prepare the Dress Form Step 1 Apply style tape to your dress form to establish the bust level. Tape from the left apex to the side seam on the right side of the dress form. 1 Module 1 – Prepare the Dress Form Step 2 Place style tape along the front princess line from shoulder line to waistline. 2 Module 1 – Prepare the Dress Form Step 3A On the back, measure the neck to the waist and divide that by 4. The top fourth is the shoulder blade level. 3 Module 1 – Prepare the Dress Form Step 3B Style tape the shoulder blade level from center back to the armhole ridge. Be sure that your guidelines lines are parallel to the floor. 4 Module 1 – Prepare the Dress Form Step 4 Place style tape along the back princess line from shoulder to waist. 5 Lesson Guide Princess Bodice Draping: Beginner Module 2 – Extract Measurements Step 1 To find the width of your center front block, measure the widest part of the cross chest, from princess line to centerfront and add 4”. Record that measurement. 6 Module 2 – Extract Measurements Step 2 For your side front block, measure the widest part from apex to side seam and add 4”. 7 Module 2 – Extract Measurements Step 3 For the length of both blocks, measure from the neckband to the middle of the waist tape and add 4”. 8 Module 2 – Extract Measurements Step 4 On the back, measure at the widest part of the center back to princess style line and add 4”.
    [Show full text]
  • The American Lady-Tailor Glove-Fitting System of Dress Making
    ' : - . fdfl . - . ... • • . 1 i , 1 • • • • i ft) '•-.; r i. # i ' ".. - i ! It r it ; . CvAMDkPS^ fedt Improved and Simplified. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. ®|ap. - ®W'Sl l 1« # Slielf .vGr..2? fc UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 4$ f. L Second Edition.] [Price, Five Dollars, THE AMERICAN Lady-Tailor Gloye-Fitting- System OP- DRESS-MAKING Invented and Taught by ^ • Mrs, Elizabeth Gartland IN HER SCIENTIFIC COLLEGE. KE^nSED, iLLTJSTBiLTED # SlIMIIF'IQjIIF'IEID- PHILADELPHIA, PA. 1884. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1884, by Mrs. Elizabeth in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. : IMPORTANT NOTICE. \K^ To all whom it may Concern : —Only those purchasing this Book from me or my authorized agents are hereby licensed to use my Systems of Cutting and Fitting, set forth in this work, the contents of which I have secured by copyright. And no person shall have any right whatever to sell or teach in any manner, my system, without first procuring from me or my duly authorized agents a license in writing, signed by me, specifying how and in what way it may be used. MRS. E. GARTLAND, 15 SOUTH 13th STREET, PHILADELPHIA, PA. LEADING PARIS FASHION MAGAZINES And they can be had at any time by the single number or by subscrip- tion; post-paid, at the prices given in the following list One Six Three Single Year. Months. Months. Copy. *Aquarelle Mode Weekly 9 16 20 9 9 00 $ 5 00 45c. *Album de la Toilette Semi-Monthly.. 7 25 4 00 2 25 45c. *Coquet Semi-Monthly.
    [Show full text]
  • Analysis of Dress Pattern of Body Fitting Without Waist Dart on Chiffon Fabrics
    Advances in Social Science, Education and Humanities Research, volume 242 2nd International Conference on Vocational Education and Training (ICOVET 2018) Analysis of Dress Pattern of Body Fitting Without Waist Dart on Chiffon Fabrics Idah Hadijah1) Endang Prahastuti2) Fashion Technology Department Fashion Technology Department Universitas Negeri Malang Universitas Negeri Malang Anik Dwi Astuti3) Fashion Technology Department Universitas Negeri Malang Abstract— The type of research used is descriptive by using position of the shoulder line that tends to backward qualitative approach with observation technique, interview, through the base of the arm, and the position of the front and documentation method. Objects in this study were the neckline is loose and bumpy". forms of dresses. They consisted of 3 models, each model Similarly, the results of research Prahastuti (2012: 28) consisted of 8 dresses. The total objects were 24 dresses. concluded, there is a difference position of the fitting The results of the study of Dress Model I, II, and III, viewed from: (1) the position of the dress fitting factor, not fit on the point basic pattern women's clothing chartmant system on waist line, neck size, and armscye ; (2) using the waist dart at various body shapes of women. Fayoomy (2014) : “that, the front; and (3) in terms of the position of wise grain in reality there is no such thing as standard or perfect chiffon fabric, used length wise grain. Position of the wise figure, the formulas for constructing basic flat pattern has grain of the chiffon fabric from the waistline until the lower designed and developed for the standard figure”.
    [Show full text]
  • Modern Pattern Design by Harriet Pepin
    1942—Modern Pattern Design by Harriet Pepin Chapter 1—Pattern Designing Description of Equipment As the doctor, sculptor or artist should understand the purpose of various tools and equipment common to his profession, it is equally important that the patternmaker understands the purpose for which his equipment has been designed. Most of the following articles may be purchased at art supply houses, tailor's supply firms or at the notion departments in retail stores: 1. Triangle: The transparent right triangle is useful in pattern making to "square" a corner. The two smaller points will serve to establish a true bias from a vertical or horizontal line. Diagrams in problems which follow illustrate how this is done. In the study of geometry we learn that a triangle must total 180 degrees. This right triangle has two 45 degree angles and one 90 degree angle. 2. Tracing Wheel: This clever instrument saves hours of needless labor of thread marking. It is used to transfer lines or symbols from one pattern to another or from the final pattern to the muslin or fabric. When the test muslins are being made by the designer, ordinary pencil carbon may be used. When actual garments are being cut, white carbon or chalk boards are used. These markings can be easily removed later. 3. Carbon Boards: A suitable carbon board can be made by purchasing a 24 × 36 sheet of pencil carbon from an art supply house. This should be laid, face upward, upon a similar size piece of heavy cardboard or ply board. Then a length of cheese cloth is laid over and securely fastened to the back of the board with gum tape or thumb tacks.
    [Show full text]
  • Single Needle Machines
    Since 1898 ® HORIZONTAL HOOK, DROP FEED, SINGLE NEEDLE MACHINES MODEL CN3115RB SINGLE NEEDLE, DROP FEED, LOCKSTITCH MACHINE WITH For general utility work. CENTRAL LARGE BOBBIN Designed for sewing light to medium-weight OSCILLATING SHUTTLE materials such as cloth synthetics and LINK TAKE-UP LEVER leather. Suitable for use by tailors, drycleaners, ROTARY STITCH CONTROL alteration rooms, general factory work, etc. REVERSE FEED Speed, Max. (S.P.M.) 1800 * Clearance Under Foot 1/4" (6.5mm) Needle Bar Stroke 1 15/32" (37.4mm) Stitch Length, Max. 6 s.p.i. (4 mm) Needle 16 x 87 MODEL 315R MODEL 318RK HIGH SPEED, SINGLE NEEDLE HIGH SPEED, SINGLE NEEDLE, DROP FEED, NEEDLE FEED DROP FEED, LOCKSTITCH MACHINE (COMPOUND FEED), REVERSE FEED With EDGE TRIMMING DEVICE, LOCKSTITCH MACHINE AUTOMATIC LUBRICATION SYSTEM, REVERSE FEED Horizontal axis Edge trimming device is located transverse rotary alongside the needle and is hook easily engaged or Synchronized drop disengaged even during the and needle feed sewing cycle (push-button assures even control) feeding of slippery Carbide tipped upper knife and and difficult to feed tool steel lower knife materials Trimming margin (distance from Fully automatic the needle to the knife) can lubrication with easily be changed recirculating pump A perfectly balanced mechanical system is used for the knife mechanism For stitching light to medium assuring vibration -free weight fabric, knits, operation with straight and synthetics, vinyl, canvas, uniform trimming denim and coated and laminated material This machine is for stitching and Speed, Max. (S.P.M.) 4000* Suitable for attaching pockets simultaneous edge trimming. Clearance Under Foot Hand 5/ " (8mm) to shirts, sewing collars and Speed, Max.
    [Show full text]
  • Early-Bird Team Shirts Offers & Order Form
    EARLY-BIRD TEAM SHIRTS OFFERS & ORDER FORM THE NUMBER ONE ONLINE DARTS SUPERSTORE www.dartscorner.co.uk Hi there! The sooner you order your team shirts, the more We know it’s been a tough year, so as well as our you save! Order 6 shirts or more and get: Samurai II Dartboard offer we’d also like to help you kit out your team with new shirts. If we can add a small Darts Corner logo on the shirt pocket or sleeve we’ll give you the above offers in return. This brochure shows our shirts range (including the 25% OFF SHIRTS & new Arraz range), our personalisation options and a JUNE form to place your order. PERSONALISATION EARLY-BIRD OFFER + FREE DELIVERY Please send your order to [email protected] and we’ll call you to take payment. All the best for the new season from everyone 25% OFF at Darts Corner! PERSONALISATION JULY OFFER Personalised Polos Personalised designer from only branded shirts from only Available on shirts from: Delivered: (Darts Corner Exclusive) £10.16 £17.66 THE NUMBER ONE ONLINE DARTS SUPERSTORE @DartsCorner www.dartscorner.co.uk T: 01204 384400 STEP 1: SELECT YOUR SHIRT Arraz Flare Darts Shirts: Arraz Flare Darts Shirts: Arraz Flare Darts Shirts: Black & Blue £19.95 Black & Green £19.95 Black & Orange £19.95 Arraz Flare Darts Shirts: Arraz Flare Darts Shirts: Arraz Flare Darts Shirts: Black & Purple £19.95 Black & Red £19.95 Black & Yellow £19.95 Please note: We do not place personalisation over patterns, so not all locations are available on all shirts.
    [Show full text]
  • Sample Schedule
    Grab a Ramah Darom map and take an audio tour of campus at ramahdarom�org/take-a-tour FRIDAY, MARCH 26 TIME ACTIVITY LOCATION 11:00am-5:00pm Check In and Intake Welcome Center Enjoy DIY projects or check out activity boxes, sports equipment 11:00am-5:00pm Concierge Desk and games Boating Open Agam (Lake) Check the Concierge Desk to see what time slots are available for: 12:30-5:00pm Archery* Archery Range Climbing* Alpine Tower/Climbing Wall Pool* Breicha (Pool) Outside of Omanut 2:00-4:00pm Art: Embossed Jerusalem with Judy Robkin* (Art Building) Stroll Ramah Darom (Easy) Meet at Levine 3:00-4:00pm Enjoy a tour of our campus. Center Portico Mirpesset T'fillah 4:00-4:45pm Gentle Yoga with Jenn Krueger* (Mountainside Pavilion) 5:00-5:15pm Symbolic Burning of the Chametz Medura (Lakeside Fire Pit) Family Program: A Story Concert with Maxine Handelman Families are invited to enjoy Shabbat, Pesach and getting-to-know- Beit Am 5:30-6:15pm you stories as we prepare to welcome the holiday! Recommended for (Covered Basketball Court) children up to the age of 8. Beit Am 6:15-7:15pm Welcome! Mincha, Kabbalat Shabbat and Maariv (Covered Basketball Court) Levine Center Portico/ 6:30-7:30pm Candle Lighting Available Center Dining Hall *See Session Descriptions on pages 40-41. Grey Denotes Preregistration Required! 12 Passover 2021 Kaplan Mitchell Retreat Center at Ramah Darom FRIDAY, MARCH 26 TIME ACTIVITY LOCATION 7:30-9:00pm Shabbat Dinner Chadar Ochel (Dining Hall) The Rabbi, The Witch and The Prevaricator: The Life of Shimon ben Shetach with Maharat Rori Picker Neiss Shimon ben Shetach is well-known for hunting witches.
    [Show full text]
  • To Complete the Pattern Join Bodice #1 to #2 at Circle Front Bodice #1
    To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle Chapter 2 Chapter 4 Chapter 6 Chapter 19 Front Bodice #1 1/2” FACING N CUT 1 FABRIC ON FOLD CUT 2 WITH FACING CUT 2 EXTENSIO INTERFACING USE FOR: GRAINLINE LAYOUT CUTTING FABRIC PATTERN MARKINGS DARTS SEAMS COLLARS CLOSURES CENTER FRONT FOLD To completeTo the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle TO COMPLETE THE PATTERN JOIN BODICE #1 TO #2 AT CIRCLE STITCH TO MATCHPOINTS FOR DART TUCK FRONT BODICE #2 Front Bodice #2 Chapter 2 Chapter 4 Chapter 6 Chapter 19 STITCH TO MATCHPOINTS FOR DART TUCKS To complete the pattern join bodice #3 to #4 at circle Chapter 2 Chapter 4 Chapter 6 Back Bodice #3 CUT 2 FABRIC USE FOR: CK SEAM GRAINLINE LAYOUT CUTTING FABRIC CK FOLD PATTERN MARKINGS DARTS SEAMS COLLARS CENTER BA CUT HERE FOR CENTER BA To completeTo the pattern join bodice #3 to #4 at circle STITCH TO MATCHPOINTS FOR DART TUCKS Back Bodice #4 Chapter 2 Chapter 4 Chapter 6 Chapter 4 Chapter 11 Chapter 14 Chapter 17 MATCHPOINT Front Skirt #5 CUT 1 FABRIC USE FOR: V SHAPED SEAM WAISTBAND WAIST FACING BIAS WAIST FINISH CURVED/ALINE HEM BIAS FALSE HEM CENTER FRONT FOLD Chapter 4 Chapter 11 Chapter 14 Front Yoke #6 CUT 1 FABRIC CUT 1 INTERFACING USE FOR: V SHAPE SEAM WAISTBAND WAIST FACING BIAS WAIST FINISH C. F. FOLD C. F. MATCHPOINT Chapter 4 Chapter 6 Chapter 10 Chapter 11 Chapter 14 Chapter 17 MARK DART POINT HERE Back Skirt #7 CUT 2 FABRIC USE FOR: SEAMS ZIPPERS WAISTBAND WAIST FACING BIAS WAIST FINISH CURVED ALINE HEM BIAS FALSE HEM Chapter 4 CUT ON FOLD Chapter 12 Chapter 17 H TC NO WHEN
    [Show full text]
  • Darts - a Reverse Approach By: Linda74sews
    Darts - A Reverse Approach By: Linda74Sews http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/darts-a-reverse-approach The subject is darts – one of the mostly commonly performed and easily done techniques for any experienced garment sewer. As we all know, darts play an important role in creating curves and shaping a garments silhouette. And, when executed well help create a professional look in clothing. In contrast, poorly executed darts can make a garment look “homemade.” So, what’s the big deal? Yes, for most sewers we don’t give them much thought. Within a matter of minutes they’re done. But, as I have learned teaching many new sewists, this simple technique can be a daunting one. Sewing darts for the first time can consume an inordinate amount of time to accomplish when conventional methods are employed. But, it doesn’t have to be that way. I have painfully watched new sewers struggle sewing darts for the first time. Where they (and let’s face it a lot of us, too) go wrong is sewing beyond the dart’s end point or short ending the points that produce the dreaded pucker. Or, simply not being able to follow the dart leg properly. A task most sewists can perform with relative ease and precision can take 3-4 times as long for the beginner. This simple sewing basic should be, for all practical purposes, a cinch to master. The objective of sewing the perfect dart is pretty straightforward. Follow a properly marked, and pinned, dart leg to a precise end point without overshooting, backstitching or short ending it.
    [Show full text]
  • Sewing Focus Swimwear
    S EWING F OCUS TECHNICAL SEWING INFORMATION Swimwear Checklist for Sewing Swimwear Sewing Parameters: SCHMETZ Tip: Needle size NM SIZE 60 – 80 8 – 12 Depending on the thickness of the material. We recommend the use of the SCHMETZ SERV 7 needle. Needle point In the production of swimwear needles with ball points are mostly used. Those are the light ball point “SES” as well as the medium ball point “SUK”. When sewing elastic materials with highly elastomeric threads or rubber threads we recommend especially the heavy ball point “SKF” and the special ball point “SKL”. Sewing thread Needle thread and hook/looper thread are mostly core spun threads made from 100 % polyester, micro-fiber sewing threads and texturized sewing threads made from 100 % polyester or polyamide. Machine Many processes are carried out using industrial high-speed sewing machines. As the range in swimwear is however very comprehensive a number of automats as well as special sewing machines for closing seams and hems are required. The ideal sewing speed is around 3,000–4,000 stitches/min. Other factors: Thread tension The necessary thread tension depends on the fabric, the sewing thread and the sewing machine. The thread tension should be as low as possible to allow an optimal stitch formation. Stitch type Double lockstitch (stitch type 301 and 304), double chain stitch (stitch type 401), types of overedge chain stitch and cover stitch (class 500 and 600); all stitch types and classes according to DIN 61400. Stitch density The higher the stitch density the higher the elasticity and strength of the seam.
    [Show full text]