Content Page

5.1 Garment Ease and Fitting 1 5.1.1 Garment Ease 1 5.1.2 Garment Fitting 3

5.2 Pattern construction 7 5.2.1 Measurement and Sizing 7 5.2.2 Methods of Pattern Construction 13 5.2.3 Individual and Commercial Pattern Construction 21 Process

5.3 Garment Construction 23 5.3.1 Construction of Garment Parts 23 5.3.2 Trimmings and Fastenings 58

5.4 Industrial Technologies 69 5.4.1 Industrial Sewing Machine 69 5.4.2 Laser Technology 72 5.4.3 Automatic Data Collection System 75

5.1 Garment Ease and Fitting

5.1.1 Garment Ease

Garments require adequate ease to provide and allow room for movement. Ease is the extra allowance added on the body measurement in pattern construction. Ease is different between garment measurement and body measurement. The exact dimensions of the body are without any addition room for comfort or movement.

There are two types of ease: Wearing Ease and Design Ease. The measurement of a garment should consider the measurement of the wearer’s body, wearing ease and design ease.

Body Wearing Design Fashion Style + + = Measurement Ease Ease or Silhouette

Figure 5.1 The sizing design of a fashion garment

Wearing ease Design ease

Figure 5.2 Wearing ease – to show the basic ease on the dress for allowing the body to move comfortable. Design ease – extra ease to add into the dress by the designer to change the silhouette.

1 (A) Wearing Ease

Wearing ease (comfort ease or fitting ease) must be required in all garments for body movement. Without wearing ease, wearers will feel uncomfortable. Garments appear tight and wrinkled and wear out more quickly from the strain on seams and fabric.

The major factors that affect wearing ease are (a) body movement, (b) fabric characteristics, (c) style of the garment and (d) customer preferences.

(i) Body Movement

Too little ease may restrict body movement and stress fabric but too much wearing ease may affect appearance of the garment. z Example for movement:

The hip shape changes shape as we walk or sit down. Therefore ‘ease' must be added to the hip measurement (girth) and in the area from hip to waist (length), especially for trousers. z Example for expansion:

The rib cage must expand when we breath therefore 'ease' is added to the chest /bust measurement (girth) and in the area from bust to waist (length).

(ii) Fabric Characteristic

Rigid fabrics are hard and stiff. They require more wearing ease than stretch fabrics. Stretch fabrics may require less comfort allowances.

Fabric Characteristic Wearing Ease Stretch Fabric: - Knitted fabric (e.g. jersey, rib) - Depend on the style of garment and fabric - Woven fabric with lycra stretchability - Negative ease to be added to skin-fitted swimwear or Tee-shirt Rigid Fabric : - Must add ease allowance for body - Woven fabric (e.g. denim, twill) movement

Figure 5.3 Relationship between fabric characteristics and wearing ease

2 (iii) Style of the garment

Some garment requires additional amounts of ease beyond the minimum requirement, depending on the specified style and intended use. In sportswear or maternity wear, the garments are worn for a specific purpose and 'ease' must be added to allow wearers to do certain actions such as a football uniform requires more wearing ease for running and kicking the ball in the match.

(iv) Wearer Preferences

The amount of ease added to a pattern will affect both the fitness and silhouette of the finished garment.

(B) Design Ease

Design ease is extra style fullness added to wearing ease. It is added straightly for the sake of appearance, giving a garment its “style” to attract customers. The amount of design ease in a garment depends on current fashion trends and the desired style of the garment. Oversized or undersized garments are made by adopting design ease.

(C) Amount of Ease

The amount of ease added to a pattern will affect both the fit and silhouette of the finished garment. The basic ease allowances are suggested in the following table and are intended for pattern construction.

Type of Garment Chest/Bust Ease Allowance Shirt /Blouse 10~14 cm Jacket 16~24 cm Coat 20~28 cm

Figure 5.4 Example of chest/bust ease allowance for different types of garment

5.1.2 Garment Fitting

Garment Fitting is how well the garment conforms to the wearer’s body. It is influenced by fashion trends, personal preferences, the usage and the function of the garment.

3 Five elements are used to evaluate the fitness of the garment. They are grain, set, balance, line and ease.

(A) Grain

Garments must be cut on grain. The lengthwise grain of the fabric must run parallel to the length of the body and the crosswise grain must run perpendicular to the body. Otherwise, garments will not hang straight. The seamlines may twist.

(B) Set

The garment with good set will be worn smoothly on the wearer’s body without any set wrinkles. Set wrinkles are always found on the oversize or undersize garments.

(C) Balance

The good garment must look symmetrically balance at the front or back view. The centre lines of the garment and the body must be aligned. Unbalanced garments worn unevenly on wearers will show poor postures.

(D) Line

The structural lines of the good garments must follow the natural lines of wearers. Out-of-line garments will show poor postures and wearers will not feel comfortable.

(E) Ease

Ease refers to the amount of roominess in a garment. Garments require adequate ease to provide sufficient room for body movement and show the designed style. Lack of ease will effect the movement of wearers.

4

Tense: horizontal wrinkles = too tight Loose: vertical folds=too loose

Skirts too tight Jacket too tight Sleeve too loose Jacket too loose through hips through shoulders through torso Loose: horizontal Tense: vertical Diagonal wrinkles point to body bulges folds = too long wrinkles = too short

Bodice too long at Pants too short in Bodice too tight Pants too tight waist crotch across bust across abdomen

Figure 5.5 Wrinkles and folds indicate fit problems

A good finished garment is sewn by many good fabric pieces. Fabric pieces are interrelated closely and must be produced from a carefully-made pattern. The pattern pieces must fit together and each pattern piece must be carefully checked so that the bodice front must fit to the bodice back, the collar must fit the neckline, the sleeve must fit the armhole, etc.

When the garment sample is completed, it should be checked carefully on each detailed points such as seams, darts, roll of the collar and general proportions. It should then be tested the ease distribution on a live human model for movement comfortability.

5 When judging garment fit is judged, the garment should have a smooth look, without pulls or wrinkles, no sagging or baggy areas. After the garment sample has passed all these tests, the pattern can be identified as a good pattern.

6 5.2 Pattern Construction

The clothing pattern are used as a guide for cutting the fabric, which when sewn together forms a wearable garment.

Clothing Product Design Sketch Clothing Pattern by Tailor-making or

Mass Production

Figure 5.6 The role of clothing pattern in garment making

5.2.1 Measurement and Sizing

(A) Body Measurement

Body measurements are important for pattern construction. The accuracy will directly affect the fitness, function and comfortable of the garment. There are two methods to obtain body measurement:

Direct body measurement

Three- dimensional scanner

(i) Direct Measurement

This is a kind of traditional manual measuring method. This method is measured the dimension of human bodies by using a measuring tape. In taking measurements, they should be taken in an order, in particular, the girth measurements should be taken from the upper one and then downward to the lower positions, and no allowance should be included. It requires a high degree of skill, rich experience and is time-consuming.

7

Figure 5.7 Body measurement positions on the female figure

8

Figure 5.8 Body measurement positions on the male figure

Figure 5.9 Body measurement positions on the child figure

9 (ii) Three-dimensional Scanner

The latest measuring techniques use high accuracy electronic equipments such as three-dimensional scanners and computers to store and analyse data. The body must dress the tight-fitted clothing and stand inside the scanning chamber. The laser beams will scan on the body and send the data to a computer for analysis and form a three-dimensional image.

A dressing-room size scanner Yellow lines illustrate measurement points of 3D body scan

Figure 5.10 Measurement taken by a three-dimensional body scanner and style selection for made-to-measure

10

Advantages Disadvantages (1) Direct - Low capital cost and low - The data will be varied Measurement tool maintenance cost. from different tailors. - The measurement can be - Less measurement points taken in anywhere and than three-dimensional anytime. scanners. - Long measurement time.

(2)Three-dimensional - Short measurement time - High capital cost and Scanner - High accuracy maintenance cost. - Experienced measurers - Wearers need to dress the are not necessary. tight-fitted clothing for body measurement. - The measurement must be taken in the scanning chamber.

Figure 5.11 Comparison between direct measurement and three-dimensional scanners

(B) Size Chart

Garment size represents a set of measurements which will suit and fit a category of people when wearing the clothes. Size codes, usually in the form of numbers or alphabets are used in the size chart to indicate garment size. Some of the size codes used in different places are as follows:

11

Ladies Men Children European United United European United United European United United Kingdom States Kingdom States Kingdom States 34 6 4 46 36 36 125cm 43” 4 36 8 6 48 38 38 135cm 48” 6 38 10 8 50 40 40 150cm 55” 8 40 12 10 52 42 42 155cm 58” 10 42 14 12 54 44 44 160cm 60” 12 44 16 14 56 46 46 46 18 16 58 48 48

Different types of garment require different sets of measurements. There are numerous types of size chart being used in the fashion industry. The following are the size chart examples of Misses, Men and Children:

Size chart for Misses’ from 1.65m to 1.68m tall; and Miss Petite from 1.57 m to 1.63m tall.

Size Code XS S M L (extra small) (small) (medium) (large) 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 (Unit: cm) Bust 75 78 80 83 87 92 97 102 Waist 56 58 61 64 67 71 76 81 Hip 80 83 85 88 92 97 102 107 Back Waist Length 39 39.5 40 40.5 41.5 42 42.5 43 Petite Back Waist 35.5 36 37.5 38 39 39.5 40.5 40.5 Length

12 Men’s size chart - for about 1.78 m tall.

Size Code XS S M L XL (extra small) (small) (medium) (large) (extra large) 30 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 (Unit: cm) Chest 76 81 87 92 97 102 107 112 117 122 Waist 61 66 71 76 81 87 92 99 107 112 Hip (Seat) 79 84 89 94 99 104 109 114 119 124 Neck Size 33 34.5 35.5 37 38 39.5 40.5 42 43 44.5 Shirt Sleeve 79 79 81 81 84 84 87 87 89 89

Children’s size chart

Size Code XS S M L (extra small) (small) (medium) (large) 2 3 4 5 6 6X (Unit: cm) Bust 53 56 58 61 64 65 Waist 51 52 53 55 56 57 Hip - - 61 64 66 67 Back Waist Length 22 23 24 25.5 27 27.5 Approximate Height 89 97 104 112 119 122

(Source: © 2008 The McCALL Pattern Company)

5.2.2 Methods of Pattern Construction

Pattern is a guide for cutting the fabric which can be sewn together to form a garment. There are three common methods in pattern construction:

(A) Two-dimensional Pattern Construction

Two-dimensional pattern construction is the process of drafting individual pattern pieces directly onto a flat paper.

(i) Basic Block

Basic blocks have no style lines and they are a guide to making the master pattern for different designs. From one basic block, many styles can be obtained whilst still

13 retaining the size. Block patterns are made without seam allowances and with wearing ease. Seam allowances should be added when being cut out in fabric.

Clothing manufactures develop their own set of basic block which fits their perceived customers. Basic blocks vary from company to company. Pattern makers use these basic block patterns to develop the pattern of different designs. They may introduce style lines, tucks, gathers and pleats on the pattern.

Figure 5.12 Ladies’ bodice block, skirt block and sleeve block

*CF = Center front *CB = Center back

14

Figure 5.13 Men’s shirt, sleeve and trousers block

15

Figure 5.14 Children’s shirt, sleeve and trouser block (Size: Height 104 cm)

16 (ii) Adjustment of Basic Blocks

Making adjustments on basic blocks is commonly used in garment making in particular for tight-fit garment.

Adjusting Skirt Length Adjusting Waistline Width

Lengthen Shorten Increase Decrease

Figure5.15 Pattern adjustment of a front basic skirt

17 (iii) Direct Drafting

Direct drafting is a two-dimensional pattern design method. This method is simple and efficient. It is useful in both tailor-making and industrial mass-production.

Figure 5.16 Silhouette and drafting pattern of half circle skirt

(iv) Adaptation of Basic Block

Adaptation is also a two-dimensional pattern-making method. This method uses the basic blocks as the foundation blocks. The basic blocks are modified to form the required style blocks by inputting the design ease and positioning the features of the design sketch. Seam allowance is added on the style blocks for cutting out of fabric.

Figure 5.17 Flared skirt - Basic skirt pattern with the closed darts and their fullness distributed on the hemline to become the flared skirt

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Figure 5.18 Princess style bodice – Basic bodice pattern with closed underarm dart and transfer the dart to centre shoulder to become the princess style bodice

Figure 5.19 Puff sleeve – Short sleeve pattern with the cap and hem edge slashed, spread and lengthened becomes the puffed sleeve

Figure 5.20 Pleated trousers – basic trouser block pattern with slash and open out the crease line and waist dart to become the pleated trousers

19

(B) Three-dimensional Mock Up

3-Dimensional mock up is also a kind of pattern construction technique, but it is different to 2-dimensional pattern construction. Draping Method is classified as this kind of pattern construction.

Draping is a technique to mount muslin/calico onto a dummy and form a 3-dimensional (3D) mock up. The designers/drapers use their hands to manipulate, mark and adjust the 3D mock up until the designer satisfies on the shape and fitness. Finally, the confirmed 3D mock up will be translated into 2-dimenaional pattern pieces for production.

Use muslin to drape front bodice Finished pattern Finished garment

Figure 5.21 The draping process from 2-D muslin to finished garment

Draping is widely used in high class fashion because this method can provide a clear view of the product to designers in the pattern construction process but this method is more time consuming than other two-dimensional methods. Designers may drape the 3-D mock up several times until the designers themselves satisfy on the shape and fitness. Within this progress, designers may need to use a lot of fabric. To reduce costs, designers will use muslin for making the pattern because this kind of fabric is not expensive.

(C) Computer-aided Pattern Making

Many companies now use computers to make patterns. Computers are useful for making patterns that are repetitive. Changes can be made easily if necessary.

CAD Pattern Design Systems (PDS) speed up the process of pattern-making and they improve accuracy. An experienced production pattern maker who is efficient in the use of the PDS system drafts the block on the computer efficiently. Some pattern makers

20 draft on hard paper and then use the scanner to convert the pattern into a computerised format. Then they make the changes on the pattern on-screen.

Pattern design development system Pattern development and modification

Figure 5.22 Gerber’s AccuMark Pattern Development System

5.2.3 Individual and Commercial Pattern Construction Process

(A) Individual Pattern

For individual patterns, detailed body measurement of the wearer should be obtained. The pattern will be drafted according to this measurement and the design of the garment. Within the garment making process, the wearers will put on the toile, check the fitness and rectify the patterns to ensure the final products are really fitted to them.

(B) Commercial Pattern

The commercial patterns are sold according to their standard body sizes. Garment illustrations and related information such as size chart, fabric quantity, notions etc. are printed on the outside of the envelopes. Simple sewing instructions are included in the package.

21

PATTERNS 000

MISSES SIZE 12

BUST 87 cm

Pattern envelope front Pattern envelope back

Figure 5.23 Commercial pattern envelope

(C) Comparison between Individual Pattern and Commercial Pattern

(i) The Advantages of Individual Pattern:

• Fit individual figure • Can modify the design at the beginning stage • Can revise the design anytime within the whole working process

(ii) The Advantages of Commercial Pattern:

• Can see the photographed version of the real thing from the catalog and imagine the final visual effect right from the start • Less time consuming as no need to draft the pattern • No skill is needed for translate the design sketches into patterns.

22 5.3 Garment Construction

5.3.1 Construction of Garment Parts

(A) Seams

Seaming is a mean of joining two or more parts of a garment together to form a finished edge. The type of seam selected should suit the fabric, type of garment and position of the seam in the garment. The following are four types of seams which are commonly used on garments.

(i) Plain Seam (Open Seam)

Plain seam is the most commonly used of all seams to sew two garment pieces together. It is used on side seams, shoulder seams and style lines. It can be applied in most fabrics, except knits. The seam allowances of plain seams may be pressed to one side or they may be pressed open.

Step-1 Step-2 Step-3

Stitch a plain seam Seam allowances Seam allowances pressed to one side pressed open

Figure 5.24 Construction of a plain seam

*RS = right side of fabric *WS = wrong side of fabric

(ii) Top-stitching Seams

Top stitching seams are topstitched from the right side. Topstitching is the good way to emphasise a construction detail, hold seam allowances flat or decorate the plain fabric.

23 or Figure 5.25 Construction of topstitching seams

(iii) French Seam

French seam is stitched twice, once from the right side and once from the wrong side. The raw edges of fabric are enclosed so that fraying does not occur. This seam gives a finished seam look from the outside of the garment as well as from the inside. It is the classic seam for sheers and looks good if the finished width is 6 mm or less.

Stitch from right side Stitch from wrong side Figure 5.26 Construction of a French seam

(iv) Flat-felled Seam

Flat-felled seam is a very strong and durable form of construction for sportswear, reversible or unlined garments. It provides a clean finish to both sides of the garment. So it is often used for sports clothing, children’s wear. It is also frequently used for setting sleeves on men’s shirts.

24

Sew a plain seam Fold edge and stitch Figure 5.27 Construction of a flat-felled seam

(v) Comparison of Seams

Type Use Properties Finished Diagram Width (cm) Plain seam Straight to Major structural seams 0.5 to 2 curve such as side, waist and sleeve seams Top-stitching Straight to More durable, hold seam 1 to 2 seam slight curve allowances flat and decorate the plain fabric French seam Straight to Adds elegance; a neat, 0.3 to 1 slight curve narrow seam which encloses the raw edges for sheer or lightweight fabrics Flat-felled Armscye of A very strong and a quality 0.8 to 1.3 seam shirts seam used for all types of sportswear, reversible or unlined garments

Figure 5.28 Comparison of seams

(B) Seam Finishes

Seam finishes are a form of technique to keep the seam edge from fraying. The following are the methods of seam neatening:

25 (i) Clean-edge Finish / Hemmed Finish

This method is suitably used on many types of thin or light-weight fabric and particularly in vertical seams. This method forms a single fold hem along the edges of the seam allowances.

(ii) Overlocking (Overedging)

This method is suitably used on many types of fabric. When you serge, the sewing machine knife trims the edge of the fabric, stitches and encases the trimmed edge of the fabric with looping threads in one operation.

(iii) Pinking (Pinked finish)

This method is suitable for firmly woven fabrics. It can be done by machine or hand pinking shears and either method leaves the edge serrated. However, pinking does not prevent raveling entirely. For more protection, stitch 6 mm from each edge before pinking.

Pinked Stitched-and-pinked

26 (iv) Binding (Bound finish)

This method is suitable for medium-weight to heavyweight fabrics. It used on unlined garments and it gives a very neat and well-finished appearance.

Binding with tape Binding with bias tape

(v) Comparison of Seam Finishes

Type Fabric Diagram Clean-edge finish • Fine to medium fabric such as cotton, linen, viscose

Overlocking • Most fabrics (method used extensively in the industry)

Pinking • -Heavy non-fraying fabric • -Fabrics that only fray slightly

Binding • -Fraying fabric • -Unlined garments

Figure 5.29 Comparison of seam finishes

(C) Edge Finishes for Hems

Edge finishes for hem is to prevent raw edges from fraying or tearing of lower edge of a garment. It may be used to finish the edge of garment section such as pocket, sleeve or skirt hem.

27 (i) Edge Finishes for Hems by Hand

Hemming Stitch

Slipstitch

Catchstitch

Blindstitch

(ii) Edge Finishes by Machines

Direct Overlocked (For hems of skirts, trousers, facing, etc)

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Neatened by Blind Stitching Machine

Machine Finished (Wide Hem)

Machine Finished Using Special Presser Foot and Folder (Narrow Hem)

Bias Binding

(D) Facings

A facing is the fabric used to finish a raw edge such as a neckline, armhole, front and back openings. It is a duplicate layer of fabric stitched to the raw edge of a garment for the purpose of clean finishing the seam. After a facing is attached to the garment’s edge, it should turn to the inside of the garment and should not be visible from the outside except for right side facing.

29 There are three general types of facings:

(i) Shaped Facing

A separate facing is cut in the same shape and grain on the area it will cover. It is stitched and then turned to the inside of the garment. It is used on bodice necklines, bodice armholes and waistlines of skirts or pants.

The following are the steps to make the armhole shaped facing:

Step-1: Seam facings

Step-2: Attach the armhole facing

Step-3: Trim and clip seam. Press seam towards facing

Step-4: Under stitch facing

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Step-5: Slipstitch at seams

(ii) Extended Facing (Self-facing)

This facing is cut out as an extension of the garment part and folded to the inside. It is used along a front or back opening.

• Extended shaped facing

The following are the steps to make an extended shaped facing:

Step-1: Extended facing

Step-2: Seam facing at neckline

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Step-3: Fold facing to wrong side and hem

-

• Extended straight facing

The extended straight facing is frequently used on shirtfronts for men and women.

The following are the examples of extended straight facings:

Extended overlap facing

Step-1: Apply interlining to extended straight facing

Step-2: Fold and press the extended facing folds to the face of the shirt

32 Step-3: Topstitch to form a band on the shirt front

Extended underlap facing

Extended facing folds to the inside and finished the front edge, the underlap of a men’s shirt

(iii) Bias Facing

The bias facing is a narrow light-weight strip fabric cut on the bias. After ironing and sewing on the garment, the strip can be shaped to fit the curved edge. It can be used with collars, bands, cuffs or other trims. The bias facing is often used instead of a shaped facing on garments.

The following are the steps to make a bias facing:

Step-1: Cut out a bias strip and fold it in half lengthwise

Step-2: Using a stream iron to shape the strip that matches the edges being faced

33 Step-3: With right sides together, placing bias strip to neck edge and stitch

Step-4: Trim garment seam allowance even with bias tape

Step-6: Clip seam allowance, if necessary

Step-7: Turn bias tape to inside. Baste tape in place OR stitch close to folded edge

OR

(E) Collar

A collar is a piece of fabric attached to the neckline. It comes in a variety of styles, shapes and sizes. Collars are generally classified in three types: flat, standing or rolled. The two-piece shirt collar is developed from the roll collar and standing collar.

The following are the examples of collars:

Flat collar Standing collar Rolled collar Two-piece shirt collar

34 The following are the procedures of making collars:

(i) Constructing the Standing Collar

Step-1: Fuse interlining to wrong side of one of the collar band

Step-2: Turn in seam allowance and stitch the folded edge

Step-3: Put the two collar bands with right sides together, run stitch collar

Step-4: Trim and clip seam

Step-5: Turn and press.

(ii) Constructing the Flat Collars, Rolled Collars and Two-piece Shirt Collars

This method is used for flat collars and rolled collars:

Step-1: Put the collar pieces with right sides together. Fuse interlining to wrong side of one of the collar pieces Step-2: Run stitch and trim seam allowance

35 Step-3 Turn collar to right side

Step-4: Leave collar plain or topstitch around edge of collar

This method is used for two-piece shirt collars:

Step-1: Put the collar pieces with right sides together. Fuse interlining to wrong side of one of the collar pieces Step-2: Run stitch and trim seam allowance

Step-3 Turn collar to right side

Step-4: Leave collar plain or topstitch around edge of collar Step-5: Fuse interlining to wrong side of one of the collar band

Step-6: Turn in seam allowance and stitch the folded edge

Step-7: Faces sides up, stack the collar on the band with no interlining. Then place the interlined band on top, wrong side up. Stitch the collar band to the collar Step-8: Trim and clip seam.

36 Step-9: Turn and press. Turn in seam allowance and stitch the folded edge

(iii) Attaching Collars to Garment

This method is used for shirt collar and standing collar:

Step-1: With right sides together, match the stand to the garment along the neck seamline. Step-2: Stitch the under collar band to neckline; secure the stitching at both ends.

Step-3: Turn in seam allowance and machine stitch close to edge

37 This method is used for flat collar and rolled collar (collar with neckline facing):

Step-1: Sew the shoulder seams of the garment and the facing pieces together

Step-2: Machine baste collar to neck edge

Step-3: Pin facing to neckline, with right sides together. Match all markings and stitch neckline seam. Trim and clip seam allowance

Step-4: Turn the facing to the inside and press

Step-5: Understitch facing to neck seam allowances

(F) Waistline

(i) Waistline Finishes

Waistband and waistline finishes hold garments in proper position on the body. The waistline edge of a garment can be finished with a waistband, facing, elastic or drawstring casing as follows:

38

Waistband Facing Drawstring Casing or Elastic

(ii) Waistband

A waistband is a strip of fabric attached to the waistline of skirts, pants or shorts. It can be cut straight or curved. Waistbands are always interlined to prevent stretching, rolling and wrinkling.

The following is an example of attaching a waistband:

Step-1: Attach interlining to wrong side of waistband

Step-2: Pin right side of waistband to wrong side of garment, matching notches and stitch Step-3: Stitch ends of waistband with right sides together Step-4: Trim, clip corners and turn waistband right side out

Step-5: Fold waistband over seamline to right side of garment Step-6: Topstitch along bottom edge of waistband close to fold

39 (iii) Waistline Facing

The waistline facing piece is stitched to the raw edge of waistline. It allows the finished edge of a garment to rest at the natural waistline. It provides a clean, smooth finish that does not extend above the waistline edge.

The following is an example of attaching a waistline facing:

Step-1: Attach interlining to the facing pieces Step-2: Join the side seams of the front and back waist facing Step-3: Finish the lower edge of facing with overlock stitching or a hem Step-4: Sew the waistline of the facing to the right side of the waist seam

Step-5: Under stitch facing to seam allowance

Step-6: Turn the facing to the inside of the garment and slipstitch at the side seam and to zipper tape

(iv) Drawstring Casing or Elastic Casing

The drawstring or elastic is inserted in sewn casing area. The drawstring or elastic will allow the garment to be passed through the hip and fit the waist comfortably.

40 • Drawstring casing

The following is an example of preparing a drawstring casing:

Step-1: Prepare a drawstring of which the length is twice of the waistline for running into the casing Step-2: Make two eyelets which should be placed 2.5 cm from the centre front, in the middle of the waistband casing

Step-3: Overlock or press the upper edge of the waist area Step-4: Fold and stitch the waistline casing

Step-5: Make a double row top stitching in the middle of the waistband casing area

Step-6: Insert a drawstring through the eyelets into the double row of topstitching. Evenly space the waistline fullness

41 • Elastic casing

The following are the procedures of preparing an elastic casing:

Step-1: Lay elastic into a casing and fix both ends of the elastic with the safety pins. Take care not to twist the elastic

WS

Step-2: Connect ends of elastic by stitching a square on the overlapped area and crisscrossing it for strength

Step-3: Close the opening by edge-stitching

(G) Sleeves

A sleeve is the part of the garment that covers the arm. The sleeve usually joins the garment in a seam that encircles the arm over the shoulder. Sleeves can be long or short, narrow or full, gathered or pleated. Sleeves can be finished at the bottom edge with a hem, facing, casing or cuff.

42 The following are the examples of sleeves:

a) Set-in b) Raglan c) Kimono

(i) Set-in Sleeve

Set-in sleeves fit the body more closely than others. The head of a set-in-sleeve is always cut larger than its armhole to allow room for movement and this extra fullness should be distributed round the upper part of the armhole. Sleeves should be correctly positioned in the armhole by matching notches ensuring that the fullness is appropriately distributed.

There are two methods for sewing a set-in sleeve:

• Shirt sleeve method (flat construction method)

Shirt sleeve method permits the sleeve to be sewn into the armhole before the garment side and sleeve seams are stitched. There is very little curve in the sleeve head and also very little ease stitching required in the sleeve head when attaching the sleeve to the garment.

Sleeve head is less rounded because of shallower curve The sketch of the shirt sleeve and its pattern

43 The following is an example of attaching a sleeve by shirt sleeve method:

Step-1: With right side together, pin and match sleeve to armhole

Step-2: Stitch seam to armhole

WS

Step-3: Stitch underarm garment and sleeve seam

• Set-in sleeve method

Set-in sleeve method is firstly stitching the underarm seam of the sleeve and the side seam of the garment respectively. Then the sleeve is attached to the armhole.

Standard set-in sleeve One-piece sleeve pattern Example of set-in sleeves and pattern

44 The following is an example of attaching a sleeve by set-in sleeve method:

To prepare the garment for the sleeve, sew the underarm seam on the sleeve and the side seam of the garment.

Step-1: Machine bastes two rows of ease stitching within the seam allowance

Step-2: Stitch underarm seam of sleeve and press open

Step-3: Insert sleeve into armhole with right sides together; pin at all matched marking

Step-4: To draw up sleeve fullness, pull the thread from ease stitching line; distribute eased fullness evenly along the head

Step-5: Stitch sleeve to armhole

45

(ii) Raglan Sleeve

A raglan sleeve is attached to the garment by a seam that runs diagonally down from the neckline to the underarm. A raglan sleeve is designed for comfort and ease.

For some designs, a dart at the shoulder is used for fitting purpose.

The following is an example of making raglan sleeves:

Step-1: Make the dart at the shoulder

Step-2: Stitch seams of sleeve to garment, with right sides together, match notches and underarm seams

Step-3: Stitch underarm seam of sleeve and side seam

46 (iii) Kimono Sleeve

Kimono sleeve is cut in one piece with the front and back of the garment

The following are the procedures of making kimono sleeves:

Step-1: Stitch shoulder seam, right sides together and press open Step-2: Stitch underarm seam with right sides facing and match Step-3: Clip seam allowances along curve. Press seam open

Step-4: Sew a piece of tape over the curved side seam to give extra strength

(H) Pockets

Pockets are small bags sewn either on the outside of a garment or into a garment seam or opening. Pockets can be functional, decorative or a combination of the two.

There are many different types of pockets. The following are being used commonly:

Patch pockets In-seam pockets Front hip pockets

47 (i) Patch Pockets

Patch pockets are sewn on the surface of garment. They can have rounded or square corners at the base. Patch pockets can be styled into skirts, pants, blouses, shirts, jackets or coats.

The following are the procedures of making different forms of patch pockets:

Step-1: Turn under top edge of pocket hem 6 mm, and press

Step-2: Turn the upper edge along fold line; press and stitch

For rounded pockets, bastes around curved edges

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Step-3: Turn in remaining seam allowances. For rounded pockets, pull thread to ease in fullness on curves. Square Notch curves (if necessary) and press

Pointed

Round

Step-4: Topstitch around edge of pocket in place. Reinforce corners by backstitching or by stitching a small triangle or square

(ii) In-seam Pockets

In seam pockets are sewn into the seam of a garment, usually the side seam. They cannot be seen when the garment is worn. They can be cut as part of the garment front and back or it can be cut from a separate pattern piece and stitched to the seam.

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All-in-one in-seam In-seam pocket with In-seam pocket without pocket extension extension

The following are the procedures of making in-seam pockets with extension:

Step-1: Stitch one pocket section to each front and back extension

Step-2: Press seam towards pocket

Step-3: Pin right sides together and marking matched

Step-4: Stitch along seam and around pocket, reinforce corners of pocket with small stitches ws

50 Step-5: Clip seam allowance of back section of garment at the corners and press open the garment seam allowances above and below the pocket

Step-6: Finish and reinforce raw edges of pocket with an overlock stitch ws

(iii) Front-hip Pockets

Front hip pockets are angled or curved pocket designs on the front of pants and skirts. They are attached to the waist and side seam of the garment.

The following are the procedures of making front-hip pockets:

Step-1: Cut a pocket piece and a facing piece.

Step-2: Pin and stitch pocket facing to the garment, right sides together, along opening edge of pocket Step-3: Trim the seam allowance and notch curves

Step-4: Understitch or topstitch seam to keep it from rolling to the right side of garment

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Step-5: Pin pocket to facing, right sides together, along the pocket curved edge

Step-6: Pin the pocket in place by matching the waistline and side seam of the garment. Machine bastes along these edges Step-7: Stitch pocket facing and the under pocket around the

curved edges of the pocket

(I) Fullness Arrangement

(i) Darts

Darts are pointed tuck sewn on a garment and usually made on the wrong side. They are used to control fullness and give shape to fitted garment. Darts can be manipulated to different positions and often arranged to become part of the style line.

The following are the procedures of sewing darts on garments:

Step-1: Transfer the dart marking from the pattern to the wrong side of the fabric

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Step-2: Fold dart with right sides of fabric together, match stitching line Step-3: Stitch from wide end of dart to the sharp point, taking last few stitches parallel to fold line Step-4: Tie thread ends in a knot

Step-5: Press the dart excess towards the centre or down

The following are the methods of pressing dart:

a) In most fabrics, darts are pressed to one side. Horizontal darts are pressed with the fold downward. Vertical darts are pressed with the fold towards centre front or centre back

b) In sheer fabrics, darts are pressed equally on either side of the stitching line

53 c) Darts in bulky fabrics are cut along the fold line towards the point. Stop cutting where the width of the dart fold narrows

(ii) Tucks

Tucks are narrow folds of fabric machined parallel with each other. They are most often decorative in purpose. The width of the tucks varies depending upon the design. Most tucks are stitched on the straight grain and uniform in width. Accuracy is essential for making tucks. Tucks are normally made in a garment piece before seaming them to any other parts.

Blind tucks Spaced tucks Pin tucks

(iii) Pleats

Pleats are folds in fabric that provide controlled fullness. They can be used in one single pleat or an entire series of pleats in a garment. Pleats are either pressed or unpressed.

• Pressed pleats have the crease line firmly pressed in position of the entire length of the pleat • Unpressed pleats are those that do not have the pleat crease line pressed in place. They must be made deep enough to hold their form

The most common types of pleats are knife pleat, box pleat and inverted pleat.

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Knife Box Inverted

(iv) Easing and Gathering

Easing and gathering are methods used to control fullness along a seamline. The difference between easing and gathering can be distinguished in the amount of material that each style draws up.

• Easing fabrics to be shaped over a curved area of the body and seams to appear smooth and not pucker or pleat. Ease stitching is most commonly used on sleeve hill, cuffs and waistbands.

Step-1: Ease stitch on the larger garment section; match the notches to the other garment section

55 Step-2: Pull bobbin thread to ease fullness

Step-3: Match the notches and stitch with right sides together. Ease stitch within seam allowance

along the seamline

• Gathers are soft folds of fabric formed by pulling up basting stitches to make the fabric fit into smaller space. Fabric is usually gathered to one-half or one-third of the original width; the effect may be soft and drapery or crisp, depending on the fabric. Gathering most often occurs in a garment at waistline, cuffs and yokes or as ruffles.

Step-1: Bastes two parallel rows of stitching in seam allowance

Step-2: Pin the stitched edges, right sides together, matching notches, seams, and markings Step-3: Gently pull on the bobbin threads Step-4: With gathered side up, stitch with standard stitching along seamline

56 (v) Shirring

Shirring is formed by several rows of gathering. It is a decorative way of controlling fullness. Shirring is used to control additional fullness on ruffles, at waistlines, and on sleeves. Lightweight fabrics are the most appropriate for shirring. There are several different techniques that can be used to create shirring.

The following are the two methods to form shirring:

Using a shirring foot Stitch as many rows of gathering as desired and secure each row end with a knot or reverse stitches

Shirring with elastic thread Elasticised shirring is made by using elastic thread in the bobbin and regular thread in the needle. Ends are secured by knotting or reverse stitches

57 5.3.2 Trimmings and Fastenings

(A) Trimming

Trimming is used to finish and adorn garments. The variety of decorations and functional trims such as interlining, shoulder pads, embroidery, laces, ribbons and fastenings.

(i) Interlining

Interlinings are functional trimmings. They are applied between the outside layer of the garment and the facing. They provide shape, support, stabilisation, reinforcement and improve performance for garments. Interlinings are generally made by woven, knitted or non-woven fabrics. They are fused or sewn to specific areas on the inside of garment components such as collars, facings, cuffs, buttonhole, pocket openings and waistbands.

Facing

Collar Cuff Shading reflects interfacing Figure 5.30 Areas to be supported by interlining

(ii) Lining

Linings are sewn into the garment to hide in inner construction and give a neat finish. They may be applied to coats, jackets, dresses, skirts and pants, in their entirety or just partially. As the lining surface is smooth, it allows garment to slide on and off easily.

58 Linings may also contribute to support the shape of garments, provide opacity to sheer fabrics or provide additional warmth. In general, linings are perceived as adding quality to a garment. The choice of lining fabrics depends upon the fashion fabric and the end use and price of garments.

Lining

Figure 5.31 Lining in a jacket

(iii) Shoulder Pads

Shoulder pads provide support and shape of the shoulder silhouette. Shoulder pads are important shaping device in tailored jackets and coats with raglan sleeves, set-in sleeves and kimono sleeves. They are also used in blouses and dresses. The shape of shoulder pads are influenced by fashion trend. Shoulder pads in unlined garments should be covered with a fabric that does not show through the garment.

Figure 5.32 Samples of different shapes of shoulder pads

(iv) Embroidery

Embroidery is decorative stitching used to form designs or patterns. Embroidery is used by various yarns to decorate a garment. It can be hand sewn or produced by

59 machine.

Eyelet embroidery fabric Embroidery lace fabric Figure 5.33 Samples of embroidery fabric

(v) Appliqué

Appliqués are small, individual piece of fabric patches that are often used to create a decoration to garments. Many appliqués are embroidered.

Figure 5.34 Samples of appliqué

(vi) Lace, Ribbon and Braid

Lace, braid and ribbon are narrow fabric trims. They may be applied directly to the surface and the edge of garments or inset between two fabric panels for decoration.

• Lace trims

Lace trims are narrow lace fabrics. Lace can be used to decorate collars, cuffs, edges, pillows and curtains. Lace is most frequently used in lingerie and bridal wear.

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Figure 5.35 Samples of lace

• Ribbons

Ribbons are narrow woven fabrics with finished edges. They can be used as a trim to make ties and bows.

Metallic ribbon Printed satin ribbon Figure 5.36 Samples of ribbon

• Braids

Braids are decorative trims with firm finished edges and heavier than ribbons. Uniform and costume manufacturers use braids the most.

Figure 5.37 Samples of braid

61 • Tapes

Tapes are narrow strip materials used for reinforcing seams. They can be of functional or decorative purpose. Tape may be knits, braids, woven bias strips or strips cut from matching shell fabric.

Twill tape

Figure 5.38 Cotton tapes on the shoulder seam and neck seam of a knit shirt

(B) Fastenings

Fastenings are a subdivision of trimmings. The function of fastenings is to hold garment parts together and allow the garment to be put on and taken off. Fastenings can also be used in decorative purpose. They include zippers, buttons and buttonholes, snaps, hooks and eyes, hook and bars, velcro, buckles and eyelets, etc.

(i) Zippers

Zippers make a complete closure by means of interlocking teeth or coils. The three main types of zippers are (i) conventional, (ii) separating and (iii) invisible.

62 z Conventional zippers (Close-ended zippers) are opended at one end. .

Figure 5.39 Conventional zipper

• Separating zippers (Open-ended zippers) are opened at both ends. This type of zipper is usually used on jackets.

Figure 5.40 Separating zipper

• Invisible zippers are opened at one end and the coils are self-concealed in the seam. The invisible zippers look like a smooth, continuous seam line on the garment.

Figure 5.41 Invisible zipper

(ii) Buttons and Buttonholes

• Buttons

Buttons are three-dimensional forms used in conjunction with buttonholes for fastening of garments. Buttons can be used alone as decoration. Two basic types of button are sew-through button and shank button.

63 Sew-through buttons have two or four holes for attachment to garments with threads.

Two-holes Four-holes Figure 5.42 Sew-through button

Shank button has a stem extension under the surface of the button for attaching the button to garments. Shank buttons allow the buttonhole to fit smoothly between the button and the under fabric.

Figure 5.43 Shank button

• Buttonholes

Buttonholes are finished opening sized to accommodate a button without straining the garment fabric. Buttonholes are made on the overlap of the garment. Garments may have vertical or horizontal buttonhole. Buttonholes should always be completed first; then the buttons are sewn in place.

Type of buttonholes:

- Worked buttonholes are made by hand, home machine attachment or commercial buttonhole machines. - Bound buttonholes are made of separate strips of fabric. - Button loops are made of bias tubing, thread or cording. They are set into the seam at the opening edge of the garment.

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Worked buttonhole Bound buttonhole Button loop Figure 5.44 Type of buttonholes

The size of buttonhole opening depends on the diameter, thickness and shape of the button. The length of the buttonhole must be large enough to allow the button to pass through it without straining the fabric.

(iii) Snaps

Snaps are paired of opposing circular plate, moulded with mating balls and sockets. They can be a variety of sizes and are used to fasten a garment area where a smooth, flat closure is desired.

Type of snaps:

• Sew-on snap

It is necessary to attach the sew-on snap fasteners by means of hand stitching.

Ball and socket of sew-on snap Attach sew-on snap Figure 5.45 Sew-on snap

• No-sew snap

They are pressed onto garments by special button-pressing machines. One set of no-sew snap consists of a cap, a socket, a stud and a post. The face surface of snap

65 may be decorative in size, shape or colour.

Cap Socket Stud Post Figure 5.46 A set of no-sew snap

(iv) Hooks and Bars

A set of shaped metal plates includes one of the plates that is curved to form a broad hook, the other is a raised bar receptacle. They are commonly attached to waistbands for fastening.

Hook & bar (Sew-on) Hook & bar (Prong) Figure 5.47 Hook & bar fastening

(v) Hooks and Eyes

A set of wire fasteners includes one of fasteners shaped into an engaging hook and the other is a receptacles eye formed into a round eye or straight eye. Small hooks and eyes are used often at necklines.

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Hook Round eye Straight eye Attaching hook & eye at neckline Figure 5.48 Hooks & eyes and their application

(vi) F. Elastics

Elastics are thread, cord and braided of woven ribbon or fabric which have resilience and flexibility. The stretchable core substance is covered with cotton, silk, synthetic or yarn blends. Elastics may be applied directly to garments by a lockstitch, zigzag or overedge machines or may be enclosed in casings.

Elastic thread Elastic cord Elastic band Figure 5.49 Different types of elastic

(vii) Hook-and-loop Tape /Velcro R tape

Hook-and-loop tapes are woven nylon hook and loop tape fasteners that consist of one tape with minute flexible hooks and the other with many small soft loops.

When opposing tapes are pressed together, hooks engage loops to form a strong closure that opens when tapes are peeled apart. Hook-and-loop tape is good fastener for providing adjustability and attach-and-detachability. They are commonly used on garment openings which need to be opened and closed quickly and easily. They are often used on jackets, sportswear, and children’s clothes.

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Figure 5.50 Hook-and-loop tape

(viii) H. Buckles

Buckles are devices in a variety of size, shape, design and material, consisting of an open rim having a single or centre bar, with or without a prong.

They are used as functional fastener and as decorative details. Buckles with centre bars usually have prongs that engage with eyelets to adjust belts to various circumferences. They are often used on the free ends of belts and straps.

Conventional buckles An interlocking buckle Figure 5.51 Different types of buckle

68 5.4 Industrial Technologies

5.4.1 Industrial Sewing Machine

Industrial sewing machines are used as production facilities in garment factories. They are required to achieve speed, durability and reliability. Industrial sewing machines are often designed with a single function, unlike home sewing machines. Industrial sewing machines are much heavier than home sewing machines. These machines can make a great variety of plain or patterned stitches.

Nowadays, many industrial sewing machines are equipped with electronic devices that are capable of automatically performing many different processes only by pressing a button. Those machines are called sewing robots instead of sewing machines. The following are the basic and important sewing machines that can be found in nearly every sewing room:

(A) Lockstitch Machine

Lockstitches appear identical on both sides; they are reversible. It is one of the most versatile items of equipment in the sewing room. It is widely used to sew seams in woven-fabric garments and to construct garment details.

Lockstitch machine Seam appearance

69 (B) Overlock Sewing Machine

The main function of overlock (overedge or sergers) machines is to trim the rough edges of fabrics in order to present a clean and neat appearance where seam edges are visible. Overlock machines are also used for the assembly of some types of knitted and woven garments.

Overlock sewing machine Seam appearance

(C) Blind Stitch Machine

This machine is used for fastening hems or facings. It performs this operation without the stitch impression showing on the right side of the garment.

Blind stitch machine Seam appearance

70 (D) Buttonhole Machine

A buttonhole is a straight or shaped slit cut through the garment and then sewn round its edge to prevent fraying and stretching. The cut shape of the buttonhole and the number of stitch density can be adjusted to fit the garment type and quality.

Buttonhole machine Seam appearance

Eyelet buttonhole machine Seam appearance

71 (E) Button Sewing Machine

Buttons with two holes, four holes or shanks can all be sewn on by the same machine through simple adjustments to the button clamp and the spacing mechanism. The sewing action consists of a series of parallel stitches of which the length is equal to the spacing between the centres of the holes.

Button sewing machine Button is fixed by the clamp and sewn onto the garment

5.4.2 Laser Technology

Laser technology is applied to textiles processing that involves laser cutting and engraving. Laser is a powerful light beam projected onto minute area to cut or carve fabric by vaporization. The fine, V-shaped laser beam is only 0.1 mm wide. The beam cuts without pressure on the fabric, which is an advantage for some types of fabric, and the fabric remains immobile during the cutting operation.

Suede Silk Cutting Garment Details Figure 5.52 Samples of laser cutting

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Fleece Upholstery Denim Figure 5.53 Samples of laser engraving (Source: http://www.cct-uk.com)

Figure 5.54 Samples of laser button (Source: Practical International Trading Co.)

(A) Cutting

Laser cutting offers a high degree of precision, consistency, control and flexibility needed in the textile industry. With some heat emission, laser-cut edges are sharp and clean. The heat produced tends to seal fabric edges, which can prevent the ravels but if the fabric is cut in multiple plies, the edges may fuse together. Therefore, lasers are used for single-ply or few-plies cutting. Laser-cut garment parts are easier to assemble because they are consistent in size with smooth, sharp edges that align.

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Figure 5.55 Laser cutting machine with computer processing control

Laser cutters operate without any mechanical parts except for the conveyor and plotting system, which operates at a high cutting speed that is approximated to 1 metre per second. The operator calls up the appropriate cutting order, which is communicated to the laser cutter. Fabric is advanced through the roller assembly unit and onto the cutting table surface, which thus eliminates the traditional fabric-spreading process.

(B) Laser Engraving

Lasers have been recognised for versatility in cutting small runs. Single-ply laser cutters also make it possible to engrave fabrics in different shading intensity. Lasers can be used to cut through a single ply of a bonded fabric which would be used for shadow lettering.

Laser cutting is used for samples and low-volume cuts and along with more conventional blade cutters for other needs. Laser cutters can also allow firms to produce on a make-to-measure or just-in-time basis. The continuous, rapid cutting of lasers helps smooth out the flow of production and reduce in-process inventory. However, the use of laser systems is still limited because of the high cost of investment in equipments.

74 (C) Advancement in Laser Technology

(i) Material Processing:

• Possible to apply to different types of fabric and other materials • Easy to control • High accuracy • High cutting and engraving speed

(ii) Process Management:

• Easy operation via PC and software • Minimise set-up time • Excellent cutting edge finishing

5.4.3 Automatic Data Collection System

(A) Introduction of Automatic Data Collection System

Automatic data collection (Bar Code System or Radio-frequency identification, RFID) are processes that occur in and around us every day. It provides most readily the information needed in the production process and real time monitoring of workflow; in retail to expedite one’s check-out procedure; or within the package delivery industry to track one’s package throughout its transport cycle.

In retail applications, bar code labels or hangtags adhered to clothing product contain codes that are sensed by readers during checkout and interpreted by computers. Specific computers recognise the data of the code reference and are able to link the items to their sales price and description contained in the stores’ mainframe databases. Not only is this product information reflected on sales receipt, it is also automatically linked to the store’s inventory tracking system which deducts the quantity of the item purchased from the stock level of inventory. This entire process occurs in a matter of seconds with only minimal data entry required by the checkout personnel.

75 (B) Bar Code System

Bar codes are a fast, easy and accurate data entry method used in the process known as automatic data collection. Bar coding enables products to be tracked efficiently and accurately at speeds not possible to be achieved by using manual data entry systems. The primary benefit of this process is that it is truly automatic, occurring directly as any transaction progresses. This process is commonly referred to as real-time data capture and exchange within the industry. Improved accuracy is yet another benefit.

Bar coding is a type of code being used to encode or put information into a universally recognised code language in the form of a bar code symbology. Encoded data consist of a part number, serial number, supplier number, quantity, transaction code or other type of data. A number of bar code standards have been developed and refined over the years into accepted languages called symbologies. Numerous bar code trade associations such as (ANSI) American National Standards Institute, (HIBC) Health Industry Bar Code Council and (AIAG) Automotive Industry Action Group have been established to regulate the use of bar code symbologies in accordance with accepted industry standards and specifications.

Bar code symbologies come in two basic varieties. They can be either linear or two dimensional in their configuration. A linear barcode symbology consists of a single row of dark lines and white spaces of varying but specified width and height, as indicated by the example below.

Figure 5.56 Traditional linear bar code

Similarly, a two-Dimensional symbology can be configured into a stacked or matrix format. Two-dimensional bar codes are special rectangular codes which ‘stack’ information in a specific manner that allows more information to be stored in a smaller amount of space.

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PDF 417 Maxicode Data Matrix

Figure 5.57 Examples of two-dimensional bar code

(C) Radio-frequency Identification (RFID)

An RFID system comprises a tag, an interrogator (the reader) and a host system. The host computer manages the information flow, sending to and receiving from the reader and tag. The data flow between the reader and tag occurs over the air interface, or radio frequency (RF) link. The reader contains a radio frequency module, a signal processing and microcontroller unit, a coupling element and the interface to a host system. There are many different kinds of readers in the market such as desktop and hand-held style readers. The host system controls the data flow between the readers and tags. It can be as simple as a personal computer connected to the reader by a communication cable.

An RFID label is an emerging label technology consisting of a label that carries information in a chip instead of in printed form. The finished label consists of a unique layer — the inlay — inserted into a traditional label construction. The inlay contains an antenna and microchip that stores data. The RFID label communicates via radio frequency (RF) rather than optical scanning (no line-of-sight required).

(D) Advancement of Automatic Data Collection System

More and more retailers and manufacturers are equipped to take full advantage of bar codes or RDIF offer. Even some small companies use handheld computers equipped with readers. The use of these systems becomes a trend because of their many possibilities for improving business efficiency. These different aspects of efficiency improvement include:

(i) Increase in accuracy by reducing the likelihood of human errors from manual entry or miscommunication from misread or mislabeled items.

77 (ii) The hardware, handheld or desktop readers is easy-to-use and user-friendly.

(iii) Standardised codes ensure that decoded code information is captured and relayed in a fashion that is universally understood and accepted.

(iv) Automatic Data Collection System promotes timely feedback at the moment that data is captured in real-time. This enables decisions to be made from current information.

(v) Automatic Data Collection System improves productivity in that many manual activities and tasks become automated.

(vi) The improved efficiencies such as improved workflows, reduction in error rates and resultant good customer services that Automatic Data Collection System promotes enable companies to save costs.

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Not for Sale

The copyright of the materials in this booklet belongs to the Education Bureau. The materials can be used by schools only for educational purpose. Prior written permission of the Education Bureau must be sought for other commercial uses.

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