SEWING INSTRUCTIONS DOLMAN BASE FDI301 TABLE OF CONTENT
Pattern pieces ...... 3 Pattern block ...... 4
SEWING ...... 5 1. Basting the dolman ...... 6 2. Darts ...... 6 3. Center front seam ...... 7 4. Shoulder seams ...... 7 5. Side seams ...... 8 6. Center back seam ...... 8
DOLMAN BASE FDI301 Page 2 TABLE OF CONTENTS PATTERN PIECES
Dolman Bodice Dolman Bodice Front 1 Front 2
Dolman Bodice Dolman Bodice Back 1 Back 2
DOLMAN FABRIC PIECES
Dolman bodice Front 1 Dolman bodice Front 2 Dolman bodice Back 1 Dolman bodice Back 2
DOLMAN BASE FDI301 Page 3 PATTERN PIECES FDI301 DOLMAN BASE 2. Thehalfofthedolmanbaseinclude1 lines orseamallowance. elaborate design.Blockareconstructedusingyourindividualmeasurements anddonotshowanystyle 1. Ablockisatwodimensionaltemplateforbasicgarmentfrom thatcanbemodi edintoamore moved totheneckline. back seams.Theshoulderdartof thebackismovedtonecklineandshoulderdartof frontis 3. Abovehiplevel,loose ttingdolman basewithoutinsetgusset.Thedolmanhascenter frontand not mainchestcircumference/2+1 dart leg intake dart shoulder seam shoulder seam
underarm seam underarm seam 1/4 ” (3cm).
1/4 side seam PATTERN BLOCK
” (3cm)amountofallowanceforeaseandcomfort:butitis side seam
bottom waistline
bust line torso line
bottom waistline bust line P age
center back center front 4 center back center front bust line
torso line waistline
bust line
waistline
bottom bottom
side seam
side seam
underarm seam underarm
underarm seam underarm
shoulder seam shoulder shoulder seam shoulder PATTERN BLOCK SEWING
Fabric key Fabric recommendations:
Challis Viscose Challis Suiting Tencel Twill
Medium (6oz-8oz / 204g - 272g)
Right side of Wrong side of Right side of Elastane 0 - 3 % fabric fabric interfacing
Laying out and cutting fabric
selvage in bias grain a r g s s o grain line r c selvage =” =” lengthwise grain selvage
1. Place the fabric on the table. 2. Place the patterns on a single layer of fabric. Be sure to place the patterns correctly following the pattern directions. 3. Place the patterns on the fabric on the grain. All pattern grainlines are placed parallel to the selvage of the fabric. 4. When the fabric is delicate and slippery, draw or pin the patterns onto a layer of pattern paper. 5. Add seam allowances. You can add your seam allowance directly onto your fabric or onto paper rst. Cutting the fabric. Snipping notches. Notches snipped in the fabric should be no longer than 1/8” (3 mm) in length.
DOLMAN BASE FDI301 Page 5 SEWING 1. BASTING THE DOLMAN
1.1
Baste the dolman for a possible tting. The dolman can be basted in the following order: 1. Baste the darts; 2. Sew all the seams; 3. Use safety pins to close up the closure, to look at the prototype (muslin) results.
2. DARTS
2.1
darts
2.2
stitch direction
Fold the dart. Match the notches and dart lines (fold by dart center line). Sew the darts. Sew starting at the raw edge.
DOLMAN BASE FDI301 Page 6 SEWING 2.3
press toward the center Press the darts - darts should be pressed toward the center. Always start at the broad end on the dart and press toward the point.
3. CENTER FRONT SEAM
3.1
Sew with the right sides together center front seam.
4. SHOULDER SEAMS
4.1
Sew the shoulder seams with the right sides together.
DOLMAN BASE FDI301 Page 7 SEWING 5. SIDE SEAMS
5.1
stretch front seam
ease back sleeve Stitch the underarm sleeve seam and side seam. Between the notches, the underarm back seam needs to gather, but the front seam needs to stretch.
6. CENTER BACK SEAM
6.1
The garment has the closure at the center back seam. Sew the center back seam with the right sides together leaving opening for the closure.
DOLMAN BASE FDI301 Page 8 SEWING