French Alps & the Jura Mountains

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

French Alps &

thePOP 4.8 MILLION Jura Mountains

Includes  Why Go? Chamonix ...... 479 It took something as monumental as the collision of Africa Annecy...... 490 and Europe to produce the Alps. Inconceivable forces buckled the land, driving it high into the sky, creating a place of en- Chambéry. . . . . 496 chantment and danger. And further north, where those forces Val d’Isère. . . . . 503 finally reached their limit, the lower, lushly wooded ridges of Grenoble ...... 507 the Jura mountains grew. What the geological millennia pro- Briançon ...... 517 duced is a place where superlatives fail: colossal peaks thrust- Besançon...... 519 ing upward into cobalt-blue skies, crevasse-fissured glaciers, tumbling crystal-clear rivers, sapphire lakes, and mountain Parc Naturel Régional du Haut-Jura. . . . 529 passes blocked by snow for nine months a year. In summer, all this can be explored on foot, or by bicycle, kayak or car. Then the return of the snow each year brings some of Europe’s finest skiing: impossibly fast black runs and world-class off-piste routes, of course, but also plenty of fun Best Places for those just finding their feet. And, in the lush lowlands and to Eat stately medieval cities, you’ll discover the rich culture, food and history of the folk who made these mountains home. ¨¨Yoann Conte (p499) ¨¨Les Louvières (p530) ¨¨Le Cap Horn (p484) When to Go ¨¨Crèmerie du Glacier Grenoble (p485) °C/°F Te mp Rainfall Inches/mm ¨¨La Fruitière (p505) 40/104 6/150 30/86 5/125 4/100 20/68 3/75 Best Places 10/50 2/50 to Sleep 0/32 1/25 ¨¨Petit Hôtel Confidentiel -10/14 0 (p497) J FDM A M J J A S O N ¨¨Hôtel de la Vallée Heureuse (p527) Feb-Apr Venetian Jul & Aug The Dec Christmas carnival in Annecy, Tour de France markets, freestyle ¨¨Hôtel Aiguille du Midi world music in whizzes by, and events and fun on (p484) Grenoble and fireworks illumi- the pistes as the ¨¨The Farmhouse (p489) cracking out the nate Annecy at the first big snows vin jaune in Jura. Fête du Lac. fall. French Alps & the Jura Mountains to Go 475

------skide (cable (chairlifts), or redevance (funicular railways). (gondolas), téléphériques (gondolas), (tow lines), télésièges AVALANCHES (cross-country) trails. You have to pay a forfait to pay have You include assurance ski packages Most At most stations, children aged three orAt mostchildren aged stations, Avalanches are a serious danger wher danger a serious are Avalanches You slopes. steep meets snow deep ever or hike ski, never rule: the golden know should nev skiers Off-piste climb alone. er head out without an avalanche pole, pole, an avalanche out without er head impor most – and, shovel transceiver, Ski resorts guide. a professional tantly, signs using risk level the daily announce risk), (low yellow flags: and coloured risk) and (heightened black and yellow Avalanche Henry’s risk). black (severe (www.henrysavalanchetalk.com) Talk forecast the daily avalanche translates English into France Météo by issued during the ski season. téléskis télécabines (fee), usually around €9 a day, to use to day, around €9 a (fee), usually least for evacuation at (insurance), and emergency aid. If further first is treatment are evacuatedrequired (eg you to a hospi na depend on your may coverage tal), your that Note health insurance. or private tional do not cover policies insurance some private so checkwinter sports, especially off-piste, home. before leave you clude limited access to a swimming pool, anpool, swimming a to access limited clude sports rink and indoor ice-skating facilities. fond Insurance a rocket like Before launch yourself you near-verticaldown that black piste, make properly insured. Accidents hap sure you’re pen, and expensive mountain-rescue costs here for a heli­ figures talking five (we’re and repatriation copter), medical treatment add insult to injury. oned as either six or seven days), about 40%oned as either six or seven days), resorts. major US Everywhereless than at in the Alps, lift tickets and can be bought ­recharged online. but stillfour and under ski for free need a pass; bring along a passportas proof of age. free lift passes to ski Some places also offer d’Isère 75. A few over resortsers aged (eg Val free lifts several and Les Deux Alpes) have passes usually in for beginners. Weeklong At the big resorts, passes cost €45 to €55 (reck week to €330 per €260 or day per cars) and funiculaires ------(lifts): – its in (lift ride pass) to (www.esf.net)

best skiing – downhill forfait Beginner Expert Jura is renowned for its selection is renowned of Jura Intermediate Advanced Every resortEvery of ski schools has a variety Summer skiing on glaciers is possibleSummer skiing on glaciers The At mostAt begins season the ski stations, Green Blue Red Black ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ vate instruction is also available (€182 per (€182 instruction vate is also available Kids can starthalf-day). learning from the old they of four; from three years canage the jardin in play de neige (snow garden). École du Ski Français structorsdistinctive ahas jumpsuits – in red in everybranch resort. lessons typi Group Pri half-days. costcally €60/200 for one/six with certified instructors; tourist offices leading ski school, the details. France’s have boarding gear (about two-thirds of that for of that (about two-thirds boarding gear Reserving kids) and €18 for cross-country. ahead online can get a 15% discount. you Ski Rental & Lessons telemark), snow Skis (alpine, cross-country, boards, snowshoes, boots, poles and helmets sport be hired at can everyshops in resort. rental costs around €35 per dayAll-inclusive alpine equipment or snow for good-quality til early or mid-May. Lots of people line up a til early or mid-May. from staying chalet skiing for a week, and go to Saturday. Saturday of August, to the end from about 21 June at around 1 November, and again for a week Les ski stations: Deux Alpes and French two (Espace Killy). d’Isère/Tignes Val ski de fond (cross-country) Les with trails, the centre. European downhillRousses at how kid- indicate runs are colour-coded to easy or killer-hard they are: in early or mid-December and ends in mid- and ends in early or mid-December though the highest-altitude April, or late Thorens (in Les Trois such as Val stations, (Espace Killy), open d’Isère and Val Vallées) close un and don’t November in mid- or late sorts, catered are brilliantly snowboarders out with halfpipes, parks kitted for in snow and ramps. kickers Lift Passes will need a You remontées mécaniques remontées the various French Alps have Alps have The 200-plus resorts the French in theof some for offering reputation a earned best the – perhaps re larger in Europe. In and snowboarding Skiing & Snowboarding& Skiing