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Home , Verdejo, Verdelho

A For All Reasons SPAIN’S NATIVE WHITE GRAPE VARIETY

DAN TRAUCKI

IMAGINE standing in the middle of a very few white varieties that have the ability (that of Javier Sanz Viticultor) to lure drinkers away from the omnipresent surrounded by short, stumpy, bush vines The and . Over that were planted 208 years ago! Roughly the years there have been a few attempts, about the same time that John MacArthur grape lends such as and viognier, but as yet, was establishing Australia’s first viable they have not done so. vineyard at Camden, before the Hunter itself to In recent times I have been championing Valley was established and long before Austria’s grüner veltliner as an exciting, the Barossa or any other growing producing up-and-coming variety, with region in Australia began. Then, just a a great global future in front of it. Well in short while later, you are standing ten several Rueda, I have discovered another exciting metres underground in a cellar that was distinctly white variety that I believe has the potential originally an underground , which to lift wine drinkers out of the monotony of was dug out in 1656 – that’s 14 years different styles drinking their “same old, same old” white before Captain Cook discovered Australia. wine and also to introduce new people to I recently did both of these, in the Rueda of . the enjoyment of quality white wine. wine region of Spain. While both seem This variety is Spain’s verdejo – not to like an extraordinarily long time ago to us, be confused with verdelho, a completely they are short-term in the context of Spain, separate variety grown in other parts of where they have been making wine for the country. Verdejo, the origins of which around 3,500 years. are unknown, has been in Rueda since Rueda is located about 200 kilometres 1,000 A.D. where over 90 per cent of the to the north-west of the Spanish capital, region’s wines are made from this native Madrid. It consists of 13,000 hectares of white variety. This makes Rueda one of vines and is a very unusual wine growing only a handful of wine growing regions in region in that the area produces almost the world that rely almost entirely on one entirely white wines (and a tiny bit of rosé). grape variety. This is due to its elevation, of 700 to 800 Viticulturally Rueda consists of a metres above sea level, which makes considerable number of patches of 100+ the climate too cool for growing “vinos year-old bush vines, particularly around the tintos” (reds). city of Segovia, in addition to the significant Speaking of reds, whilst there is a areas of newer vines which are trellised for myriad of red grape varieties which have machine harvesting. Their trellising is quite the potential to lure Aussie wine drinkers a bit lower than what we are accustomed away from their staple triumvirate of shiraz, to in Australia, because as one vigneron Opposite page: Wine varieties from Javier Sanz and , there are winery; from the Rueda region. explained: “due to their altitude and the

36 WINESTATE September/October 2016 September/October 2016 WINESTATE 37 latitude, the growing season here is shorter has access to 50 to 100 year-old vines of wines. The first of which is the crisper, Spain’s and therefore the quicker they can get from some of their local growers, allowing steelier, fruit-driven wine, where the wines the nutrients out of the ground and into them to make a range of different style are made in stainless steel tanks, bottled the canopy, the sooner we can ripen the verdejo wines. soon after fermentation has finished, and Verdejo – ”. Some of the larger Bodegas such On the subject of underground cellars, then on the market in less than 12 months as Cuatro Rayas, also have a third type of most of the villages have a maze of from . In Spanish parlance not to be vine management system, in that they have tunnels under them dating back to the these could be called the Joven wines. re-trained some of their very old vines onto days when families made their own wines They are delicious aperitif and summer confused with low trellises so as to be able to machine underground by using gravity feed. In wines, which slake a thirst and refresh; an the grapes. recent times, as small family operations ideal type of wine for our weather. Great Much of the vineyard acreage in the are bought out, some of the larger examples of this style include: Avelino Verdelho, a region is owned by small family growers have been joining up these small tunnels Vegas Circe Verdejo 2015, Bodegas Proto who work with the wine companies. More so as to form a maze of maturing cellars. Verdejo 2015, Eresma V&R Verdejo 2015, completely recently they started heeding technology The most awesome of these labyrinths is Javier Sanz Verdejo 2015, Jose Pariente and the winemaker’s advice rather than that of bodegas Grupo Yllera, which has Verdejo 2015, Oro de Castilla Verdejo separate doing exactly the same as previous set up “El Hilo de Ariadna” (The Thread of 2015, Palacio De Bornos Verdejo 2015, generations had done. Well, some at least Ariadna – from Greek mythology) tourist Quatro Rayas Organic Verdejo 2015. have. I was told that there were still a few attraction under its winery, consisting of The second style is more complex and variety grown who start their harvesting based on the over a kilometre of interconnected wine a more food friendly style of wine. These calendar rather than grape maturity, but caves with a superb and very elegant wines are fermented in stainless steel in other they are gradually being replaced by the 100 seat restaurant, all 20 metres below tanks but the wine is left on lees after more tech savvy younger generation. the surface. fermentation. Also, a proportion of the parts of the There are a number of organic and The verdejo grape lends itself to make is matured in barrels to gain even biodynamic wineries in the region, however producing several distinctly different styles more complexity, particularly with wineries as they explained at the innovative that battonage (stir) the wine. The result country. Bodegas Menade (which also brews beer) is that this style, which could be called while I was tasting its delicious wines, the Crianza, is less crisp and austere than the E.U. organic certification is rather lax in Joven style, and has subtler more complex that it allows practices that true organic aromas, is bigger bodied and richer in producers would never countenance. flavour. These wines are typically left on Therefore, while they adhere to the “best lees for around 3-6 months, then bottled practices” of organic production, many of and left in bottle for several months before the organic and biodynamic producers are they are released. Delicious examples not “officially” certified. include: Castelo De Medina Vendimia The wineries themselves range from Seleccionada Verdejo 2014, Diez Siglos some that have been around for centuries Verdejo 2015, Hijos de Alberto (organic) such as Hijos de Alberto Gutierrez, which Verdejo 2015, Javier Sanz Malcorta 2015 dug its first underground winery in 1656, – an ancient clone of Verdejo, Menade Above top: Vineyards in the Spanish Rueda region. through to state of the art wineries like Above: Javier Sanz Verdejo wine in the vineyard. 2015 V3 (Vinas Viejas Verdejo - organic), that of the innovative Bodegas Castelo Opposite page from top to bottom: Grape harvesting Palacio De Bornos La Caprichiosa – very at Cuatro Rayas vineyard in the Rueda region; de Medina (est.1995) and the newest, Verdejo vineyards grow low to the ground; Road signs slowly fermented. Bodegas Shaya which commenced in the Rueda region of Spain; Cuatro Rayas selection The third style of wine could be called of wines; A selection of delicious Spanish tapas that operations in 2008. Bodegas Shaya also complements the verdejo wines. the Reserva (in Spanish red wine terms)

38 WINESTATE September/October 2016 September/October 2016 WINESTATE 39 as it is much less commonly available as people into being wine drinkers. an amontillado style of nose, a good climate is a bit warmer, they are not quite it is made in small volumes, and cellared Good examples of this include the crown sweet palate that was not cloying and a as steely or mineral, rather they are a bit for much longer, by some of the Bodegas. sealed YLLERA Cinco.5 Frizzante, a pleasant dry-ish, spirity finish. softer, rounder, more in the aperitif style This is the “fermentado en barril” or barrel delicious fizzy verdejo with 5.5 per cent So as you can see in Rueda verdejo than the wines of Rueda, which are suited fermented wine. This is the pinnacle of what alcohol which is slightly sweet but finishes can produce the full range of wines, from to match all but the richest of meat dishes. verdejo can achieve. It is a sublime, rich, reasonably dry. An ideal introductory wine a , through to aperitif style I see Rueda as a prime example of the creamy, mouthfilling, unctuous wine that is and very popular with the “millennials”, or wines, serious food wines and also a dessert “Renaissance of Old World” , truly lip-smackingly good. This style of wine the slightly stronger (9 per cent) Cuatro wine. How versatile is that? where they have kept the best of the is quite comfortable being matched with Rayas Dulce Bianco 2014. To create a point of difference in some past, such as their ancient vineyards and any meat dish that hasn’t been swamped The final style of verdejo is so old that wines, verdejo is ably supported by a splash incorporated the latest technology. Some by a very rich sauce. However, equally, nobody seems to know how long ago it of sauvignon blanc and to a much lesser bodegas have even started using “roscas” it is fantastic on its own. Great examples started. This is the “Dorado” which is made extent, viura, in some wines. Like here, (screwcaps), to create sensational white include: Caserio de Duenas Ferrmentado in a somewhat similar style to sherry, but they can add up to 15 per cent of other wines that are truly worth seeking out. en Barrica 2014, Diez Siglos Fermentado differently. The wine is fermented as normal varieties without having to declare it on the Some Rueda wines are now available in en Barrica 2012, Eresma 2014, Jose white wine, then it has its alcohol level label. There are even a couple of “radical” Australia, and I am sure that over time, a Pariente Cuvee Especial 2013 - fermented raised up to 16 per cent by the addition growers out of the 69 wineries in the region, lot more of them will become available. in concrete “eggs”, Oro de Castilla Finca of grape spirit alcohol and then the wine who are experimenting with other varieties So I suggest that when you get a chance, Los Hornos 2014 – single vineyard, Proto is poured into 16 litre glass demijohns, as to add in small volumes, to their verdejo, so try a verdejo- a grape for all reasons and Barrel Fermented 2014. it has been done for centuries. These are as to make theirs perceptibly different from you won’t be disappointed! The fourth style is “Method Tradicional” not filled completely as they are left with a the others. However, that is still a while away

bottle fermented sparkling wine, made considerable airspace to aid in the oxidative and top secret. Opposite page from top to bottom: Cuatro Rayas bush exactly the same way as (Spanish process. The main difference with sherry is Verdejo is an amazingly consistent high vines, Rueda; Harvesting done by hand at Cuatro Rayas; Glass demijohn bottles stored to create sherry for sparkling wine), except that it is made that there is no system used in the quality white variety, it varies in style style sweet wine; Cuatro Rayas old family photo showing traditional harvesting; Verdejo grapes from from verdejo. Not many wineries do this making of Dorado. In earlier times it was according to the winemaker, but each Rueda region. because of the amount of effort required, made from the sherry variety, Fino, and every wine still has the same inherent Above & below: Javier Sanz wine varieties in the vineyard; a selection of wonderful verdejos. however those that do, produce a damn but that variety has almost disappeared in primary characteristics of the variety. good sparkling wine such as: Jose Rueda, they now use verdejo instead. Unlike, so many other white varieties, such Parientes Verdejo Cuvee Especial, Palacio The filled demijohns are stored out in open as chardonnay, which can vary so much De Bornos Brut and Yllera Privee Brut- a courtyards with only sturdy shade cloth in flavour that the consumer never knows blend of chardonnay and verdejo. over them as protection against hailstones what they will be getting until they open the The newest and most exciting style of which have been known to smash the glass bottle and taste it. verdejo wine that is just starting to emerge demijohns. They are left there for around Most recently, a handful of adventurous is that of “Frizzante”, a semi-sweet, lightly 24 months, or longer to slowly oxidise and wineries in Australia have started sparkling verdejo that finishes nearly dry. create a sherry style sweet wine which producing verdejo. This small band In Spain, it is flying off the shelf this Spring/ finishes quite dry. The only attention they includes Trentham Estate which was the Summer as the younger generation discover get during their “penance” is that they are first to release an Aussie verdejo, Dell’uva it. It is usually presented in eye catching occasionally checked to see if they have and Peter Lehmann in the Barossa. The packaging. It is a smash hit with newer wine popped their corks, which are then bunged Aussie verdejo has the same characters drinkers and is also helping to convert new back in. The Alberto Gutierrez “Dorado” has as those from Rueda but because our

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