HOW DO WE FEEL ABOUT NATURAL WINE? We Drink, Breathe, and Sleep Thinking About the History of the Humble Grape and Its Importance in the World
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HOW DO WE FEEL ABOUT NATURAL WINE? We drink, breathe, and sleep thinking about the history of the humble grape and its importance in the world. Kinda a lot of pressure for a fermented beverage, but we know Wine can handle it. We’ve gone all in on natural wine because we believe in celebrating farmers and other stewards of the land who work tirelessly to create biodiverse landscapes. Think of wine as a transmitter of a certain place and time in history: if made with nothing but grapes, a bottle has the ability to tell us what the soil in the vineyard is composed of, what the weather was like in a given vintage, and what the surrounding flora and fauna are doing. Cover it up with any number of 60-plus legal chemical additives, and what are you left with? Something engineered that no longer transmits its story. There is no official definition of what natural wine is. But we have our definition, and here’s our promise: every wine on this list is grown organically or biodynamically, free of any chemicals in the vineyard. Every wine on this list is made without any additives except sulfur, which is naturally occurring in grapes. Every wine on this list is fermented with its own living, wild yeast. And every wine on this list is made in small, or very small, amounts. It’s difficult to find fault with any of that. We love these wines and the people behind them, and we hope you do too. Corkage: $20 per 750ml not on our list, limit 2 bottles per party. Thank you. BY THE GLASS SPARKLING iClivi ‘R_B_L’, Friuli IT NV Ribolla Gialla 14 Terres Dorées ‘FRV100’, Beaujolais FR 2014 Gamay 11 WHITE Camin Larredya ‘La Part Davan’ Jurançon Sec, Sud-Ouest FR 2014 Gros Manseng, Petit Manseng, etc. 14 Angiolino Maule ‘Masieri’, Veneto IT 2015 Garganega 12 Ulibarri Artzaiak Bizkaiko Txakolina, Basque Country ESP 2014 Hondarrabi Zuri 13 Hild Elbling Trocken ‘Sponton’, Mosel GER 2015 Elbling 11 Luckert Silvaner Trocken ‘Sulzfelder’, Franken GER 2015 Silvaner 15 SKIN CONTACT/ORANGE/ROSÉ Partida Creus ‘VN Blanco.’, Penedès ESP 2015 Macabeu, Grenache Blanc, etc. 15 Kabaj Rebula, Goriška Brda SLO 2013 Rebula 15 Calabretta Rosato, Sicily IT 2015 Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Capuccio 12 RED Simon Busser ‘Sauvage’, Cahors FR 2014 Malbec, Merlot 13 Colombera & Garella Coste della Sesia, Alto Piedmont IT 2013 Nebbiolo, Croatina, Vespolina 12 Envinate ‘Albahra’, Castilla-La Mancha ESP 2015 Garnacha Tintorera 11 Claus Preisinger ‘Puszta Libre!’, Burgenland AUT 2015 Zweigelt, St. Laurent 12 MAY IS OREGON WINE MONTH: Dame toasts a few of our local natural growers and winemakers Bow & Arrow Melon, Willamette Valley 2015 Melon 11 Holden Wine Company Vermentino, Applegate Valley 2015 Vermentino 12 Division Winemaking Company ‘Renardière’, Willamette Valley 2015 Gamay 16 Smock Shop Band Pinot Noir, Columbia Gorge 2014 Pinot Noir 16 BOTTLES SPARKLING FRANCE/WHITE Dominique Belluard ‘Mont Blanc’, Savoie 2012 Gringet 87 Dominique Belluard ‘Les Perles du Mont Blanc’, Savoie NV Gringet 40 Philippe Tessier ‘Phil’en Bulle’, Loire Valley NV Menu Pineau, Romarantin 48 Martin Texier ‘Petite Nature’, Rhone 2015 Chasselas, Muscat 39 Marie-Courtin Extra Brut ‘Efflorescence’, Champagne 2012 Pinot Noir 118 Thomas Perseval Extra Brut ‘Tradition’, Champagne 2012 Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Chardonnay 99 Jacques Lassaigne Brut ‘Vignes de Montgueux’, Champagne NV Chardonnay 85 Champagne Bourgeois-Diaz Extra Brut ‘3C’, Champagne NV Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier 78 FRANCE/ROSÉ Les Capriades “Piége á Filles’, Loire Valley 2015 Gamay, Côt, Cabernet Franc, etc. 49 Tarlant ‘Rosé Zero’, Champagne NV Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier 120 ITALY/WHITE Ca’ dei Zago Prosecco col Fondo, Veneto 2015 Glera, Verdiso, Perera, Bianchetta 39 Casa Coste Piane ‘Brichet’, Veneto 2015 Glera 42 ITALY/RED La Collina Lambrusco dell’Emilia ‘Il Quaresimo’, Emilia Romagna NV Salamino, Maestri, Grasparossa, etc. 34 Cà de Noci ‘Sottobosco’, Emilia Romagna 2014 Grasparossa, Montericco, Malbo, etc. 45 Vigneto Saetti Lambrusco, Emilia Romagna 2015 Salamino di Santa Croce 33 La Stoppa ‘Trebbiolo Frizzante’, Emilia Romagna 2014 Barbera, Bonarda 40 OTHER REGIONS/WHITE Peter Lauer Sekt Réserve, Saar GER 1992 Riesling 115 Recaredo ‘Terrers’ Brut Nature Gran Reserva Cava, Penedes ESP 2009 Xarel-lo, Macabeo, Parellada 65 Štoka Vitovska, Kras SLO 2015 Vitovska 40 Swick Wines Pet’ Nat, Columbia Valley, Washington USA 2016 Verdelho 38 OTHER REGIONS/ROSÉ Via de la Plata Brut Cava, Extremadura ESP NV Garnacha, Pinot Noir 32 BOTTLES WHITE FRANCE Fraincois Cazin Cour-Cheverny ‘Cuvée Renaissance’, Loire Valley 2014 Romarantin 39 Le Sot de l’Ange ‘Sec Symbole’, Loire Valley 2015 Chenin Blanc 41 Frantz Saumon ‘Minéral+’, Loire Valley 2015 Chenin Blanc 51 Gérard Boulay Sancerre ‘Monts Damnés’, Loire Valley 2015 Sauvignon Blanc 78 Clos Roche Blanche Sauvignon ‘No. 2’, Loire Valley 2014 Sauvignon Blanc 40 Complémen’Terre Muscadet ‘Le Petite Mortier Gobin’, Loire Valley 2014 Melon de Bourgogne 43 Marc Pesnot Muscadet ‘Nuitage’, Loire Valley 2014 Melon de Bourgogne 46 Marc Pesnot ‘La Folle Blanche Equinoxe’ 2015 Folle Blanche 41 Audrey et Christian Binner ‘Vignoble de Katzenthal’, Alsace 2012 Riesling 44 Léon Boesch ‘Zinnkoepfle’, Alsace 2014 Gewürztraminer 58 Château de Vaux ‘Les Mages’, Moselle 2013 Müller-Thurgau 42 Dominique Belluard ‘Le Feu’, Savoie 2014 Gringet 85 Dominique Belluard ‘Les Alpes’, Savoie 2015 Gringet 81 A NEW DOMAINE LABET: 4th generation grower and winemaker, Julien Labet, had, for many years made wine separately from his family’s estate. Domaine Labet remained in his father’s stead, while Julien started his own label focusing on ouillé styles of white wines, something that was a departure from the history of the Jura. The two estates have now merged: Domaine Labet is run by Julien and they have seamlessly blended the tradition of sous-voile whites (nutty, oxidized, from un-topped barrels) with new-ishly popular ouillé whites (fresh, minerally, from topped-up barrels). His wines labeled ‘Fleur’ are of this new ilk. Not to be missed: Julien’s Vin Jaune, a heady, rich, intensely oxidized white aged 6 years in barrel sous-voile before release. Domaine Labet Chardonnay ‘Fleur’, Jura 2014 Chardonnay 42 Domaine Labet Chardonnay ‘Les Varrons’, Jura 2014 Chardonnay 62 Domaine Labet Savagnin ‘Fleur-En Chalasse’, Jura 2014 Savagnin 62 Domaine Labet Vin Jaune, Jura 2008 Savagnin 120 Domaine des Marnes Blanche ‘Empreinte Tradition’, Jura 2011 Savagnin, Chardonnay 50 Domaine des Cavarodes ‘Les Lumachelles’, Jura 2014 Chardonnay 60 Gérard Duplessis Premier Cru ‘Vaillons’, Chablis 2013 Chardonnay 75 Gérard Duplessis Premier Cru ‘Vaugiraut’, Chablis 2013 Chardonnay 67 Alice et Olivier DeMoor Saint-Bris ‘Sans Bruit’, Burgundy 2014 Sauvignon Blanc 60 Vincent Paris ‘Granit Blanc’, Rhone 2015 Viognier, Roussanne 43 Dard & Ribo Crozes-Hermitage, Rhone 2014 Roussanne, Marsanne 82 BOTTLES WHITE ITALY Franco Noussan ‘Blanc du Tzanté’, Valle d’Aoste 2013 Pinot Grigio 58 Fattoria San Lorenzo ‘Il San Lorenzo’, Marche 2002 Verdicchio 125 Vadiaperti Fiano, Campania 2014 Fiano di Avellino 32 Salvo Foti ‘Vigna di Milo’, Sicily 2014 Carricante 72 GERMANY J.B. Becker Spätlese Trocken ‘Walkenberg’, Rheingau 1994 Riesling 71 J.B. Becker Spätlese Trocken ‘Walkenberg’, Rheingau 2002 Riesling 67 J.B. Becker Spätlese Trocken ‘Walkenberg’ Alte Reben, Rheingau 2013 Riesling 48 Peter Lauer Spätlese ‘Lambertskirch', Saar 2014 Riesling 67 Weiser-Künstler Kabinett ‘Enkircher Ellergrub”, Mosel 2015 Riesling 47 Weiser-Künstler Spätlese ‘Enkircher Ellergrub”, Mosel 2015 Riesling 60 Weingut Beurer Trocken ‘Weiss’, Swabia 2015 Müller-Thurgau, Kerner, Weissburgunder 34 Vetter ‘Steinterrassen Sandstein’, Franken 2013 Sylvaner 56 OTHER REGIONS Nikolaihof ‘Hefeabzug’, Wachau AUT 2013 Grüner Veltliner 54 Johnneshof Reinisch ‘Spiegel’, Thermenregion AUT 2012 Zierfandler 61 Schellmann ‘In Gumpoldskirchen’, Thermenregion AUT 2012 Zierfandler, Rotgipfler 49 Apátsági, Somló HUN 2014 Hárslevelu 48 Tinon ‘Birtok’ Tokaj HUN 2014 Furmint 47 Ulibarri Artzaiak Bizkaiko Txakolina, Basque Country ESP 2009 Hondarrabi Zuri 63 Bengoetxe Getariako Txakolina, Basque Country ESP 2014 Hondarrabi Zuri 33 Bodega y Viñedos Akilia ‘K’, Bierzo ESP 2014 Palomino, Doña Blanca 63 Nanclares Albariño ‘Soverribas’, Galicia ESP 2014 Albariño 60 St. Reginald Parish ‘The Marigny’, Willamette Valley, Ore. USA 2016 Pinot Gris 31 Smock Shop Band Columbia Gorge, Washington USA 2014 Chardonnay, Pinot Gris 53 Forlorn Hope Picpoul, Calaveras County, California USA 2014 Picpoul 57 BOTTLES ORANGE WINE? The bottles below might be the closest representation of how wine was made over 5,000 years ago in the Republic of Georgia…what some may consider the ‘first’ wine ever produced. White grapes are left to ferment on their skins in barrels, steel vessels, or clay amphorae, lending all shades of color from golden yellow to burnt amber, as well as tannin, texture, and loads of complexity. Aromatics and flavors run the spectrum of toasted nuts, beeswax, mottled fruits, and farmhouse cider. They are a little wink at history and tremendous food wines. ORANGE/SKIN CONTACT FRANCE Jean-Yves Peron ‘La Petite Robe’, Savoie 2013 Jacquere 52 La Ferme des Sept Lunes ‘Mal Luné’, Rhone 2011 Marsanne, Roussane 45 ITALY Vodopivec Friuli 2011 Vitovska 99 Radikon ‘Oslavje’, Friuli (500ml) 2008 Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc 78 Ezio Trinchero ‘Sogno di Bacco’, Piedmont 2014 Malvasia 65 Testalonga Bianco, Liguria 2015 Vermentino 62 La Stoppa ‘Ageno’, Emilia Romagna 2011 Malvasia, Ortrugo, Trebbiano 57 Paolo Bea ‘Arboreus',