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Editorial News Agri-Talk Preserving Homegrown and of Other Articles Yesteryears Sunday Fare By Henrietta S. M. Rosana

MB.COM.PH Panorama IN A TYPICAL FILIPINO , and ensaimada are fixed items. Pandesal came from the Spanish pan de sal (literally Classified Ads “ of ”) and is a ubiquitous fare, normally eaten with (and sometimes even dipped in) coffee. It typically takes the form of a bread roll, and is usually baked covered in bread crumbs. Ensaimada has been altered much to suit the Philippine palate producing a pastry with a soft and chewy texture. It can be made with a variety of fillings such as ube (purple yam) and and often topped with , sugar and shredded cheese. Other food sold in Filipino include a sweet bread roll filled with shredded mixed with molasses. Other breads like , which literally means “explode,” refers to a small hard bread roll whose cratered surface is glazed with sugar.

Eating these old time favorite breads and cookies today does not simply give us gustatory satisfaction; it also leads us to a nostalgic trip to yesteryears. Thanks to Panaderia Pantoja for preserving the fascination of legendary breads and indigenous cookies, even as they cater to the constantly evolving tastes of modern times.

The story of Panaderia Pantoja began in 1950, when a handsome mestizo named Aurelio Pantoja, and his lovely wife, Celinda, were newly married. They were starting to build their family in Tanauan, Batangas when they serendipitously found an old pugon (brick oven) in the backyard of their inherited house.

"That antique oven seemed to be just waiting there for somebody’s care or attention. My husband and I felt then that it could be a timely manifestation of God’s divine providence, so it inspired us to venture into the baking business right away," Celinda, now 81 years old and still very charming with her regal bearing, tenderly recalls.

"Those were the days when the bread was kneaded only by hand. Originally, we were not bakers — my husband was a Commerce graduate from Far Eastern University, while I was a Home Economics graduate from the University of Santo Tomas. So we hired some baking experts from Nasugbu, Batangas to start this Panaderia Pantoja by making good use of that idle oven. Who knows! - I said - It could bring us a brigth future."

Indeed, their future turned out to be bright and rosy with their progress in the breadmaking business. Panaderia Pantoja became popular with classic breads such as pan de sal, pan de coco, pan de leche, bonete, kalahi, , ensaymada, pianono, etc. They also manufactured sortidos— cookies or delicacies from the Southern Tagalog provinces. Examples: , paborita, pacencia, broas, machacao, , seco, , , canlubang, camachile, butter cookies, etc. They also made filled breads inspired by the foreign settlers of long ago: the old Chinese hopiang baboy and the Spanish .

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Panaderia Pantoja was focused on producing such traditional breads and indigenous cookies for about fourteen years until the early 1970s, when the old couple’s eldest son, Arturo, who had just earned a bachelor’s degree in business management, became in charge of the family’s panaderia. Art introduced a lot of modifications or diversifications in breadmaking, in order to meet the demands of fast evolving modern tastes. Thanks to the concomitant age of the electric mixers, Panaderia Pantoja can produce thousands of breads and cookies per day.

Now their plain pan de sal has different fillings. Thus, they have pan de cheese, pan de ube, pan de red; pandesal tuna, adobo or corned beef. Their plain "tasty bread" or pan amerikano has grown with several varieties: drizzled with sesame seeds; streaked with either munggo (black beans) or ube (purple yam); or rainbow (different colors); and the healthful whole wheat bread. Now they have galore: chocolate, mocha, vanilla, carrot, cassava, banana, , and . Plus rolls, cake bars, and mamons (either soft or toasted) - all very handy options for finger foods in cocktails and buffet parties. Because these food items are also nice-and-easy- to-wrap, they’re ideal for or presents, not only among domestic tourists but also among balikbayans and overseas contract workers returning abroad.

To meet the sandwich cravings of school-children, office workers/laborers, and out-of-town travelers, Panaderia Pantoja now has hotdog buns and hamburger buns. In keeping with economic crisis, Art has also come up with extreme sizes of breads: either jumbo (as in Dabiana) or minis (as in empanaditas, ensaymaditas, cream puffs, and crinkles). In wine bibbing sessions or drinking sprees, Panaderia Pantoja’s chicharon, banana chips, sticks, and garlic peanuts are good alternatives for hors d’oeuvres or appetizers. Some of their products are good for , too: , , brownies, egg pies, and leche flan.

What’s good about Panaderia Pantoja is the rare combination of affordable price and good taste. Their prices fall in the happy middle between the lowest and the highest in the market today.

In gratitude to God’s continuous blessings, initially manifested through that providential oven which they have been using for 58 years already, Art Pantoja is mindful; of his social responsibility as a businessman. Thus he maintains a happy balance between the financial capacity of their customers and the just compensation of their employees, at the same time being honest with fine recipes to retain the nutritious deliciousness of their breads and pastries. back to top

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