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Home , Stasi Museum, Tiergarten (park), Victory column

Berlin It Up!

A guide to the capital’s top sights and activities Contents

Introduction 03 Shopping 36 - KaDaWe 37 A Short History of - Türkenmarkt 38 - Colours Kleidermarkt 04 - Sing Blackbird 39 - Motto Survival Guide 05 - Fassbender & Rausch 40 - Mauer Park Flea Market Public Transport 06 - St. George’s Bookshop 41 - Winterfeldt Market Sights & 07 - 08 Eating Out 42 - Siegessäule 09 - Café im Literaturhaus 43 - Bibliothek Memorial - Brezelbar & Leselounge - Reichstag 10 - Burgermeister 44 - 11 - Café Vux - Humboldt University - Fraulein Frost 45 - Neue Wache 12 - Hasir - St. Hedwig’s Kathedrale - Mustafa’s Gemüse Kebap 46 - Berliner Dom 13 - Die Eismacher 47 - Holocaust Memorial 14 - Street Food Thursdays - Memorial - Fast Food 48 - Olympic Stadium 15 - Tadshikische Teestube 49 - 16 - Kauf Dich Glücklich - Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp - Zierwogel’s Kult Curry 50 - Bonanza Coffee House - Anna Blume 51 Museums & Galleries 17 - Till the Cows Come Home - 18 - Baharat Falfel 52 - 19 - Pasam Baklava - Museum für Naturkunde - 20 Bars, Clubs & Beer Gardens 53 - Museum der Dinge 21 - Hops & Barleys 54 - Topographie des Terrors - Ankerlause - 22 - Suicide Circus 55 - Museum 23 - Barbie Deinhoff’s 56 - Helmut Newton Gallery - Hopfenreich - Jewish Museum 24 - B-Flat Jazz Club 57 - Musikinstrumenten-Museum 25 - Beach - Bauhaus Archive - Berlin Republic 58 - Dr. Pong Streets & Outdoors 26 - Deck Five 59 - Under den Linden 27 - MS Hoppetosse - - Prater Beer Garden 60 - Palace Gardens 28 - Café am Neuen See - Kurfürstendamn - Prinzessengarten 29 Contributor Profiles 61 - - 30 - 31 - Street Art Alley - Karl Marx Allee 32 - Tempelhofer Park - Fotoautomaten 33 - Teufelsberg 34 - Kastanienallee - Bear Pit Karaoke 35 - Park

2 Introduction

Remarkable and unmistakable, with its eclectic mix of past and present, Berlin does not disappoint. One of the most dynamic and historically fascinating cities in the world, there is something for everyone here.

Berlin is divided in boroughs, which all bring their own personality and fascination. The busy central hub of the Mitte borough is where the magnificent architecture, including the likes of the impressive Brandenburg Gate, rubs shoulders with the sleek high-rises of the commercial centre. Here you will find historical significance on almost every street you walk. Head down to the urban maze of hip Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg, spread across the River , and experience the tempting nightlife with the vibrant East Side Gallery running through it. Don’t forget to stop by the diverse, bohemian streets of Neukölln, the regal, well-to-do Charlottenburg and the markets, beer-gardens and leafy blocks of Prenzlauer Burg.

If you are only visiting for a short time and can’t imagine seeing it all, we are here to help you pick your favorites. We have tried and tested Berlin’s most popular spots to let you know which attractions are really worth a visit. Moreover, we have explored this wonderful city in search of new discoveries as well as the hidden classics, and Berlin has delivered.

In the following pages you will find our suggestions and tips on a variety of Berlin’s charms. From the rich collection of galleries and museums, to the best of the city’s street-art and live music. Berlin’s got bustling markets and vintage, second- hand shops, in addition to high-end, designer fashion. Looking for a bite to eat? We’ve got it covered. Whether that is a sit down dinner or some food on the go, we’ve tried it for you, so you know just what to expect. Maybe you’d like a night out complete with strobe lights and techno? Or perhaps a cold brew in one of Berlin’s many beer gardens better suits you. Whatever you are in search of, we’ll show you the way.

Now what to see, and what to miss – that is up to you. But whatever you do… Berlin it up!

by Alison Bouchard & Jess Roberts A Short

Berlin is one of Europe’s younger capital cities, The Third Reich (1933-1945) originating in the 1200s when Slavic settlements were built along the river Spree. Initially insignificant, the A combination of factors caused the extreme politics region developed into a centre for commerce and of and his Nazi party to gain mass support. agriculture under the Margraves of Brandenburg. It The Wall Street crash of 1929, alongside crippling became capital of under Hohenzollern rule, and reparations payments, weakened the fragile Weimar later following the 1871 unification. After Republic. Using a combination of propaganda and fear, playing a pivotal role in two world wars, Berlin was the Nazi party was legally elected to parliament with centre stage of the Cold War (1949-1989). After the fall Hitler appointed as Chancellor in 1933. The Nazi regime of the wall in 1989, Berlin once again became the persecuted anyone deemed “un-German,” in particular capital of the newly reunified Federal Republic of Jews and Communists. Hitler’s desire for an empire Germany. with Berlin as world capital led to the invasion of Poland in 1939, initiating World War Two. During the conflict, The Hohenzollerns (1415-1918) large areas of Berlin were destroyed by six years of air raids. In April 1945, 1.5 million Soviet soldiers invaded Following the death of the last Margrave in 1319, Berlin defeating Hitler and the Nazis. Berlin became the object of a bloody feud. Its inhabitant’s appeal to the Holy led to the Berlin Divided assignment of special protector Friedrich Von Hohenzollern. After successfully mediating the conflict, After the war, Berlin was divided into four sectors; U.S., he was named Elector of Brandenburg in 1415, British, French and Soviet. 1949 saw their assimilation marking the beginning of the 500-year rule of the House into just two, the east German Democratic Republic of Hohenzollern. (GDR) and the west Federal Republic of Germany. received a high level of financial support, In 1701, Elector Frederick III raised Brandenburg’s whereas East Berlin did not and stagnated as a result. status to that of a kingdom, becoming the first king of Buildings fell into disrepair and workers attempted Prussia. An ambitious man with intellectual passions, failed uprisings. The prosperity of the west attracted the his rule saw the construction of Berlin’s fine arts and disgruntled people of East Berlin, and a large proportion sciences academies. Under the reign of Wilhelm I, of its young population left the city in the 1950s. To assisted by chancellor Otto Van Bismarck, Prussia built prevent this, the GDR authorities constructed the Berlin an empire out of Europe’s fragmented German states. Wall in 1961. The people of East Berlin effectively By 1871, German unification was complete, with Berlin became prisoners in their own city; those who attempted as its capital. to cross the wall were shot.

Although Berlin continued to prosper, political Reunification. developments within Europe, in particular the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand, led to the Berlin remained separate until 1989, when political outbreak of World War One (1914-1918). Germany’s developments in the Soviet Union led to the fall of the defeat led to the Kaiser’s abdication and the end of the Berlin Wall. In 1990 Germany was reunified and Berlin House of Hohenzollern. was restored as capital. Recent development has see the city once again become a sophisticated cultural The Weimar Republic (1919-1933) centre.

Now monarchy-free, the political future of Germany by Amy Neal was highly contested. Political rivalries culminated in riots and violence during the 1918 revolution, including the murder of socialist leader Karl Liebknecht. In 1919 the Weimar Republic was officially proclaimed. During the Republic’s turbulent history, Berlin suffered rising unemployment and rampant hyperinflation, though it simultaneously flourished in art, music and theatre. 4 Survival Guide

TO PAY in restaurants, bars, shops and even supermarkets, make sure you always have cash with you. Credit cards such as Visa and Mastercard are hardly ever accepted.

TO GO SHOPPING remember that almost all shops open from 10am to 8pm and close on Sundays. Some supermarkets open at 8am. However, shops are allowed to open 24/7. Therefore you will find shops called Späti to buy drinks, snacks and other basic things at any time of the day.

TO TRAVEL AROUND, bear in mind that it takes an average of 30 minutes to get anywhere in the city. However, the transport system is very efficient and all the areas are very well communicated. Germany has an open system, which means that you don’t have to validate your ticket to get into the metro. However, do not take the risk of not buying one if you don’t want to be surprised by the conductors.

TO ASK FOR DIRECTIONS you should learn basic words and sentences in German, since people in general do not speak English.

TO BUY MEDICINES you should go to an Apotheke (pharmacy). Unlike in other countries like the UK or the United States, supermarkets and drugstores in Germany don’t sell medicines.

TO TIP remember that the service and VAT are included in the menu prices in all restaurants and bars. Nevertheless, it is common to “round up” the amount or to add 5-10%.

TO GRAB A QUICK BITE TO EAT you will find plenty of food stalls in the streets and also fast food places. Wherever you decide to go, food is very cheap and it is easy to have lunch for less than 5€.

TO THOSE TRAVELLING ALONE, Berlin is a very safe city. Crime is possible, like in any other big cities, but there are no “prohibited” areas and we can say that Berlin is a welcoming and safe place.

TO USE INTERNET you can go to any café or bar with Wi-Fi connection. There are plenty of them around the city.

AND ALWAYS REMEMBER to respect the traffic lights when crossing the road. You will rarely see locals crossing in red; so unless you want to avoid cars blowing the horns at you, try to respect the signs.

by Berta Caragol Pugés

5 DON’T

Public Transport • Eat or drink. No one wants to smell your tuna sand- wich from across the train aisle. Berlin’s public transport system is nothing if not • Fall for myths about German efficiency. Berlin’s comprehensive, and it can seem a little complicated at trains are just as likely to be delayed, overcrowded first. The U-Bahn (underground train) system has 170 and unhygienic as the ones at home! stations over nine lines, while the S-Bahn (overground • Forget to be courteous to your fellow passengers. train) has 166 stations over 15 lines. That’s without Say ‘entschuldigung’ (meaning: excuse me or sorry) even taking into account the buses, and - particularly if you accidentally collide with someone. in the East - the tram network, which make up the vast • Worry about getting lost. As complicated as it can array of options on hand to get you where you need to seem, it’s always possible to reach your destination. be. Buses and trams both run throughout the night. The Bahn systems, however, only operate through the night on weekends, and stop at about 12.30pm during the weekdays. However, for all modes of transport, departures will become more infrequent as the night goes on, so make sure you’ve planned your journey home in advance!

The 100 and 200 buses are also a great way to see some of the sights of the city, and they’re both included with the public travel passes. They stop at: , Under den Linden, , Brandenburg Gate, the Reichstag, Tiergarten, the , Bellevue Palace and Zoologischer Platz, with the 200 taking an extra detour by Potsdamer Platz. While you won’t have a guide to explain the history or significance of all these places, it makes for quite the viewing experience!

by Louisa Ackermann

Tickets

One Way Ticket: Valid for one person and a two hour journey. One-way tickets must also be purchased for returns. Zones AB: 2.60 € / Zones BC: 2.90€ / Zones ABC: 3.20€

Short Distance Ticket: 3 stops within the S-Bahn and U-Bahn, or 6 stops on public buses. Any zone: 1.50€

One Day Ticket: Valid for one person for the whole day purchased, Dos & Don’ts until 3am the next day. Zone AB: 6.70€

DO Seven Day Ticket: Valid for one person for seven consecutive days. The ticket will expire at midnight on the seventh day. • Bring your travel card with you at all times; there are Zone AB: 28.80€ plain clothed ticket officers who will fine you 40.00€ if Group Day Ticket for up to Five People: Valid for up to five you’re not carrying it or if it’s not validated correctly. people to travel on every form of public transport until 3am the next • Wait for passengers to exit the train before you get day. Only valid in Zones A and B.Zone AB: 16.20€ on – it’s just basic physics. • Give up your seat for the pregnant, disabled, elderly Monthly Pass: Valid for unlimited public transportation for one month after buying the ticket. and those with small children. Zones AB: 78.00€ / Zones ABC: 94.00€ • Make use of technology. Download the BVG map to your smartphone and you’ll have all the public trans- Don’t forget to validate your tickets after purchase! (not port maps and timetables in your pocket. applicable to Monthly Passes). 6 Sights & Monuments

A wide variety of landmarks and monuments were built across Berlin throughout its rich history, including such iconic attractions as the Brandenburg Gate and Siegessaule. While the majority of the city’s sights are located in and around Mitte, visitors should also venture west to Charlottenburg to view the Olympic Stadium. Approximately 40km north of the city, is the Orienenburg Concentration Camp, Sachsenhausen, also highly recommended.

7 Brandenburg Gate

This majestic is Germany’s most important landmark as well as the city’s biggest tourist attraction. Built by Carl Gotthard Langhans from 1788 to 1791, this former gate to the city was once a sign of peace. Since then, the Brandenburg Tor (Brandenburg Gate) has survived the biggest conflicts in the history of Germany including WWII, when it suffered considerable damage. Following the war, the 85-foot tall gate was closed off when the city was split into East- and West-Berlin in 1961. During that time it became a symbol not only for the division of the city but for the division of all of Germany. It would not be open to the public again until the in 1989. Since then, the gate has come to symbolize the new reunified Germany.

The neoclassical masterpiece comprises 12 massive Doric and five passageways, the biggest of which, located in the centre, was once reserved for royals only. The gate’s most striking element, however, is the magnificent Quadriga, a of Eirene the Greek goddess of peace, on a chariot drawn by four horses. The ornate, green statue made of bronze is now a symbol of victory.

Stop by at night time for a breathtaking view of the glowing gate.

by Alison Bouchard

Pariser Platz, 10117 Berlin | +493025002333 | Closest S-Bahn: S1/S2/S25 Brandenburger Tor. 8 Siegessäule ()

In the centre of the vast Großer Stern (Great Star) roundabout, surrounded by the sprawling Tiergarten, stands this impressive 67-metre victory column. Designed by Berliner Johann Heinrick Strack, the column was initially inspired by Prussia’s victory over Denmark in 1864. Completed in 1873 after the declaration of a united German empire, it became the first national monument of the new empire and new capital city.

Its sheer size singles it out as a magnificent monument. Surrounding its base there are three intricate bas-reliefs commemorating the three over Denmark, Austria and France. Halfway up the column in a temple like structure there is a beautiful mosaic depicting the founding of the German empire. Bibliothek Memorial The defining feature is the golden Goddess of Victory who adorns the column. Weighing 40 tonnes and (Library Memorial) reaching 8.32 metres in height, Friedrich Drake’s is the cherry on top of an epic structure of Berlin. Underneath the goddess there is a small viewing At Bebelplatz, the cobbled public square overlooked by platform, which offers some spectacular vistas of the the monumental Juristische Fakultät (Law Faculty) of city. Those with a fear of heights might want to give it a Humboldt University, a small glass window in the ground miss. To climb the tower costs only a few euros, and is shows a glimpse into an underground chamber. Inside, well worth a visit. a number of bookshelves stand empty. This desolate by Amy Neal scene commemorates the infamous Nazi book burning that took place there by the National Socialist German Student Union. On the evening of 10 May 1933, vast Großer Stern, 10557 Berlin | +49303912961 | Closest amounts of literature was burnt on enormous bonfires U-Bahn: U9 Hansaplatz | Opening hours: Mon. - Sun. in University towns across the country. Any work by 9:30 am - 6:30 pm (Apr. – Oct.), 10 am – 5 pm (Nov. – liberal, Communist or Jewish authors, or “Un-German” Mar.) | 3€ entry (adults), 2.50€ (concessions) pieces that contradicted Hitler and the Third Reich ideologies were destroyed. These extreme acts were propagandised by universities as “literary cleansing” in order to purify the German education system.

Today, the barely noticeable memorial by Israeli artist, Micha Ullman, inaugurated in 1995, commemorates the pivotal historical event, its bleakness and small scale symbolic of the authors’ vain efforts against the great strength and power of the Nazi movement. Alongside it lies a modest plaque with an appropriately poignant quote from Heinrich Heine’s play Almansor, “That was only a prelude; where they burn books, they will in the end also burn people”.

by Kayleigh Rawlings

Bebelplatz, , 10117 Berlin | Closest U-Bahn: U6 Französische Straße 9 Reichstag

A historical government building first opened in 1894, the Reichstag is the home of the (Germany’s parliament) and is one of Berlin’s most visited attractions. Other than the façade, most of the original building was destroyed by a mysterious fire in 1933 and by WWII bombing. Still standing is the inscription ‘Dem Deutschen Volke’ (to the German people), added in 1916 much to Kaiser Wilhelm II’s chagrin.

A renovation, designed by architect Norman Foster, reinstalled the Reichstag’s iconic dome, which since 1999 has been open to the public as a popular viewing point. Providing a magnificent panoramic view of city landmarks such as the Brandenburg Gate, the dome’s interior is a spectacle in itself. Weighing 800 tonnes and containing 3,000 square metres of glass, the dome’s structure is symbolically transparent, contrasting with Germany’s undemocratic governments of the past. Above the parliament’s debating chamber, 3,600 square metres of mirror creates an entrancing display of reflections at multiple angles. The effect is intensified when venturing up the spiral walkway, which finishes at a circular bench where you can lay back to gaze up at the sky through the dome’s 10 metre wide gap. Utilised to catch rainwater for the Reichstag’s heating system, the gap forms part of the architecture’s ingenious energy efficient design. The aforementioned mirrors are used to deflect natural light onto solar panels which generate most of the building’s electricity.

To visit the dome, booking in advance is required, as are security checks and cramming into an elevator. Guided tours in English are in high demand, but the free audio-guide provides ample information on the dome’s architecture and history.

by Nick Mould

Platz der Republik 1, 11011 Berlin | Closest S & U-Bahn: S1/S2/S25/U55 Brandenburg Tor. | Opening hours: Mon. – Sun. 10 am – 12 am | www.bundestag.de 10