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Wednesday, October 1, 2003 latimes.com/food

COUNTER INTELLIGENCE: VIETNAM Baguettes with a twist, but not Extraordinary Food, just a French one The sandwich shop that specialize in banh mi are bridging culinary cultural Extraordinary Service gaps, appealing to the mainstream crowd.

By LINDA BURUM Special to The Times.

ERFUMED with the (optional) jalapeno is essen- aroma of dark roasted tial to this and every other coffee and freshly baked banh mi. P bread, banh mi shops The heart of great banh -- Vietnamese sandwich mi is the right bread. So the cafes - are a familiar sight in restaurant mix, proof and certain local Zip codes. But bake their baguettes form the sandwiches they serve - scratch. The skinny loaves baguettes laden with Asian- emerging from their ovens style cold cuts -- while a sta- almost hourly are dead ring- ple in Vietnam for decades, ers for the airy baguettes are still a long way from the you can pick up in a neigh- mainstream here. borhood bakery in Paris. That may change, though Bryant Tang, owner of with the recent opening of Mr. Baguette, credits his two Mr. Baguette in Rosemead. American-raised children for The immaculate, glassed-in inspiring his endeavor. Like dining rooms of these trendi- the casual theme restaurants ly designed shops attract his teens love, his shop em- young professionals and stu- phasizes a motif: French, in dents who lounge at the ta- this case. The decor includes bles sipping soy-based wrought-iron Parisian cafe smoothies, ice-blended mo- chairs, a small garden and a chas or sparkling French glass display case filled with lemonade. The efficient, house made pates and head fast-food-style service and cheese. smart logos make the restau- For dessert you can go rant seems imminently clon- European with a light creme able. And why not? The be- caramel or Asian with sweet loved Vietnamese standards rice and bean pudding in a served in these shops should rich coconut sauce. Tang's play well to a wider audi- coffee is a fine blend of ence. French and Italian coffees Although Mr. Baguette and, whether drip or iced, serves authentic, French-in- does not have the bitterness fluenced Vietnamese dishes, often found in the coffee in the proprietors have made it traditional banh mi shops. a point to bridge cultural cu- The shop also prepares linary gaps. Instead of the 12 inch sandwiches in full untranslated menus often en- view or customers, allowing countered in little Saigon, for modifications and special Mr. Baguette posts large, requests. His repertoire also colored photos to guide banh includes cappuccino mousse mi neophytes. A shop writes cake and tiramisu. each sandwich description in The shop's espresso ma- English with Vietnamese chine pumps out brew that's names following. And it has served iced or hot, Vietnam- added "European-style" ba- ese-style with sweetened guette sandwiches, such as condensed milk. That's al- roast beef or ham and ready a bit of a departure cheese. from the traditional drip cof- Tang recently acquired a fee of a banh mi shop, so it's master of charcuterie certifi- not a surprise to learn that cation in Dijon and now servers will gladly make a oversees the making of cappuccino or an Ameri- French and Vietnamese cold cano, instead. It's another of cuts in his restaurant's huge the small touches that brings kitchen. Mr. Baguette closer to the As for the sandwiches, mainstream. the Mr. Baguette Special, a banh mi classic known as Mr. Baguette dac biet, is a hoagie loaded with thinly sliced ham, cha Location: 8702 E. Valley lua pork loaf (think an Asian Blvd., Rosemead, (626) mortadella). And a smear of 288-9166. pate. The dozen or so sand- Price: Sandwiches, $1.50 to wich choices also include $2.75; iced blended drinks, grilled beef (piled with thin $1.75 to $2.75. slices of garlicky marinated meat) and shredded chicken Best dishes: Dac biet sandwich, roasted Vietnamese style. roast chicken sandwich, iced There's also a vaguelyham- coffee. like soy loaf. The crisp, sal- Best dishes: Open 6 a.m. to 9 p. ad-Like garnish of shredded m. daily. No alcohol. Parking lot. daikon, carrot, cilantro and Cash only.

Photographs by BRYAN CHAN Los Angeles Times

INSIDE Main Courses Side Dishes Soups Beef Tzimmes with Butternut Minted Rice...... H5 Squash and Matzo Balls...... H6 Seasoned Mashed Plantains...H3 Butternut Squash Soup...... H2 Chicken in Peanut Sauce...... H3 Hearty Vegetable Soup...... H4 Sugar Snap Pea Soup...... H4 Grilled Sea Bass With Mango Salsa...... H5 Salads Lamb Tajine With Apricots, Desserts BRYAN CHAN Los Angeles Times Ensalada de Manzana y Espinaca....H2 Saffron and Ginger...... H6 Hazelnut Honey Squares...... H6 GOOD COMBO : With its modern vibe and fresh-baked Haricots Verts and Tomato Salad....H5 WALLY SKALIJ / Los Angeles Times Pork with Mashed Pumpkin...H3 Nut Chews...... H5 bread, Mr. Baguette in rosemead has gained a following.