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Home , Baguette, Broa, Ficelle, Fougasse (bread), Pullman loaf

Foreword 9 Traditional For the Love of 10 46

The basics of bread making 48 12 Batard 52 54 Polka Bread 56 14 Fancy Loaves: , Epi, & Braided 58 Choosing the Right Ingredients 16 Baker’s Peel 64 Equipment 18 Petite Baguette 66 Kneading 20 Rustic Loaf 68 Fermentation 24 Tabatiere 70 Liquid Starter 25 Split Loaf 74 Pre-Fermentation Methods 26 Daisy Loaf 76 Fresh Yeast in Bread Making 28 Portemanteau 78 The Two Stages of Fermentation 30 The Twist 82 Pre-Shaping the 32 Zigzag Bread 84 Final Shaping 34 Couronne Bread Ring 86 Scoring the Dough 38 Bow Tie Bread 90 Baking & Storing Bread 42 Learning from Mistakes 44 Specialty breads 92

“First Mill” Loaf 94 Loaf 96 Mixed Seed Bread 98 Kamut® Bread 100 Whole Bread 104 Semolina Bread 106 Country Bread 108 Bran Loaf 110 Bread 112 Maslin Loaf 116 Gluten-Free 120 Gluten-Free Chestnut Bread 122 Rosemary 124 Macatia 128 Ekmek 130 Pumpernickel 132 Broa 136 Bagels 138 Sesame Buns 142 Swiss “Cross” Bread 144

14-11-07_BookofBread-0-Intro-ML.indd 4 11/11/2014 13:24 14-11-17_BookofBread-0-Intro-ML.indd 5 18/11/2014 09:53 Organic Sweet pastries naturalLY-leavened BREADS & breads 146 232

Organic Baguette 148 Paris Buns 234 Organic Stone-Ground Bread 152 Viennese Bread 236 Classic Organic Bread 154 Bread 240 Organic Buckwheat Bread 158 Classic 242 Organic Spelt Bread 160 Brioche Loaf 246 Organic Einkorn Bread 164 Raisin Benoitons 248 Organic Whole Wheat Bread 166 250 Stone-Ground Bread with Currants 168 Pain au Chocolat 254 Vanilla Rolls 258 Pullman Loaf 260 Pain aux Raisins 264

Breads with Extras Bread Rolls 170 268

Hazelnut & Bread 172 Poppy Seed Rolls 270 Gorgonzola & Walnut Bread 174 Bread Rolls with Lardons & Pecans 272 Green Tea & Orange Loaf 176 Pistolets 276 Orange Bread 180 Kamut® & Seaweed Rolls 278 Fig Bread 182 Hazelnut & Chocolate Rolls 280 Honey Bread 184 Walnuts & Raisin Rolls 284 Walnut & Butter Bread 186 286 Turmeric Bread 190 Mixed Fruit & Nut Crowns 192 Sesame Seed Bread 196 Cuttlefish Ink Bread 198

Oil-enriched breads Appendix 200 290

Plain 202 Bulk Conversions 292 Mixed Seed Ciabatta 208 Conversions 305 Buckwheat Ciabatta 210 Glossary 306 Pumpkin Seed Ciabatta 212 Index 308 Basil Bread 216 Sun-Dried Tomato Bread 218 with Ash Goat 220 Fougasse with Black & Green 222 Fougasse with Lardons 226 228

14-11-07_BookofBread-0-Intro-ML.indd 6 11/11/2014 13:25 14-11-17_BookofBread-0-Intro-ML.indd 7 18/11/2014 09:53 FOREWORD

Around the late nineties, the French rediscovered bread—not just any old bread, but the bread that, these days, is offered by exceptional artisan bakers. The use of natural leavens and quality flours, the alliance of tradition and technology, the inventiveness—these are some of the reasons for the renaissance. Tired of soulless commercial products, consumers now want to understand how their bread is made, and this book is a response to those demands.

It is a short journey from the quest for good bread to making it yourself, and renowned French artisan baker Éric Kayser wants you to take that step. His goal for you is ambitious because he invites you to throw yourself into the process of making bread using natural leaven. You will easily find the ingredients you need for the recipes in this book in good supermarkets and specialist stores. You already have an oven. If you don’t want to knead by hand you can use an electric stand mixer. If you work with good ingredients, you are already more than halfway there. For the rest, there are the step- by-step explanations of the recipes, which you can follow in Massimo Pessina’s close-up photographs.

Éric Kayser, who runs many in France and abroad, receives a constant stream of requests from private individuals who want to spend a night in the , baking bread. This book demonstrates his eagerness to satisfy the urge that many of us have to touch and feel dough with our own hands and, through making it ourselves, to understand what bread really is. “People today are seeking authenticity in all kinds of things,” he explains. “And what could be better than bread, when it is made honestly, with no trickery or artifice, to convey this feeling of authenticity?”

9

14-11-07_BookofBread-0-Intro-ML.indd 8 11/11/2014 13:25 14-11-07_BookofBread-0-Intro-ML.indd 9 11/11/2014 13:25 in me a desire to help prevent apprentices going astray in the world, to teach them how to respect others and to earn respect themselves. I believe in humankind. Within every lost soul, For the love OF BREAD there is always something good that will help him find his way, provided he allows himself to be helped. I am absolutely delighted that the Compagnons du Devoir is now open to women, which was not the case in my day. Some of them have become remarkable stonemasons or bakers.

At the request of the Companionship, I was asked to help develop training programs for the future. At the time, I was I come from a long line of bakers originating in Alsace already running training courses and work-placement schemes in France. My family is from the Franche-Comté, specifically for the Institut National de la Boulangerie Pâtisserie from a town called Lure, where my father practiced the (the inbp, or the National Institute of Baking and Pastry- craft and passed it to me. As a child, I loved the time that Making—France’s leading technical college for bakers). These I spent with him in the bakery and I always saw myself internships operated within the framework of the Centres following in his footsteps­­—but in a different way, somehow de Formation d’Apprentis (cfa, or Centers for the Training combining the job with my childhood dreams of traveling of Apprentices) and then shifted to bakeries. Over the course the world. Although my father was happy in his work, of two to three nights, we would show bakers how to I had the impression that he was tied to his bakery. The image organize their work. It was a question of not hurting people’s of the artisan baker, working seven days a week and part feelings and I found the experience character-building. of the nights, will either entice or deter you. I persisted, In the course of these training sessions Patrick Castagna starting an apprenticeship in Fréjus, at Gérard Levant’s (a greatly valued trainer by inbp) and I began to realize that bakery. There I learned how to mix the dough, how to make bakers who had abandoned natural leavens after the war the leaven, how to put bread in the oven with a baker’s peel. wanted to go back to using them, but did not know how. Levant was a good teacher who passed on to me the love So together, in 1992, we created a baking consultancy (Panis of work well done. At that time, there were no restrictions Victor) and started to develop a concept for a machine on working hours for minors, and I often started before that would be capable of handling natural leavens. The gradual 1 a.m. One time, I took a girl out to go dancing and explained adoption of natural leavens by French bakers meant that that I would disappear by midnight, like Cinderella. When millers were starting to offer us bakers ancient varieties she asked why, I told her that I was a baker… and the spell of high-quality wheat flour that had been abandoned because was broken. But while these can be the drawbacks of the of low yields. The entire industry, from field to bakery, occupation, they did not discourage me. began to be questioned. We developed the concept for our Fermentolevain machine in association with the bakery While doing my military service I took the opportunity division of the Swedish company Electrolux. It meant a great of signing up as a conscript in Lebanon, where I joined deal of traveling around the world to launch our machines. the blue berets of the unfil (United Nations Interim Force Fermentolevain won the Innovation Award at Europain 1994. in Lebanon). That experience only reaffirmed my desire to see the world. On returning to France, I joined the On 13 September, 1996, I opened my first bread shop at 8 rue Compagnons du Devoir (“Companions of Duty”), a workers’ Monge in Paris—partly inspired by memories of my father’s association that offered apprentices opportunities to further bakery. I wanted to reproduce a child’s picture book image their training and to travel. The chance to gain practical of the traditional bakery, complete with a bread oven built on knowledge while traveling appealed to me. Collective life had a hearth of firebricks. We were resolved to banish people’s many rules. My daily routine comprised a total of 10 hours vision of dreary supermarket shelves with their limp plastic- of work, on top of which I had 5–6 hours of lessons—either wrapped . There is little doubt that the use giving or receiving them—as well as various tasks and duties of quality flours and natural leavens, together with skilled to carry out within the community. I completed my “Tour of kneading and baking, have all contributed to French people’s France” in four years, earning on graduation the name Franc- renewed desire for bread with complex aromas and a fresh, Comtois le Décidé (“The resolute Franc-Comtois”). light crumb. These days, I fly around the world to open new bakeries on other continents and to bring a love of French Living with others, sharing, receiving, giving: these are the bread to people who have never tasted it. But I do miss values most at risk in young people, who often prefer to shut the hands-on contact with dough, and I often feel the urge themselves in their rooms playing video games. I learned to return to a bakery and to start kneading. from the Compagnons the desire to do good, as well as tenacity and a love of honest work. My own experiences instilled ­­— Éric Kayser

10 11

14-11-07_BookofBread-0-Intro-ML.indd 10 11/11/2014 13:25 14-11-07_BookofBread-0-Intro-ML.indd 11 11/11/2014 13:25 KNEADING IN A STAND MIXER Put the flour and water in the bowl and mix for 4 minutes at low speed. Remove the bowl from the machine and cover it with a damp cloth. Leave to rest for 1 hour, then add the starter, fresh yeast, and salt. Knead with the dough hook baguette for 4 minutes at low speed, then for 7 minutes at high speed.

KNEADING BY HAND Put the flour on a work surface or in a mixing bowl and make a large well in the center. Pour in two-thirds of the water and mix until all the flour has been incorporated. Leave to rest Makes 3 baguettes, for 1 hour under a damp cloth, then incorporate the rest of each about 300 g the water, the starter, fresh yeast, and salt. Knead the dough until it becomes smooth and elastic. timings • Mixing & kneading: 15 min Shape into a ball and cover with a damp cloth. Let rise for • First resting: 1 h 1 hour 30 minutes. It will have increased in volume by the end • First rising: 1 h 30 min of the rising time. 1 2 3 • Second resting: 30 min • Proofing: 1 h 40 min Dust the work surface. Divide the dough into 3 equal pieces. • Baking: 20 min Fold each piece over on itself, pulling gently to stretch into a longish log. Cover with a damp cloth and leave to rest for ingredients 30 minutes. • 500 g (4 cups) all-purpose (plain) flour, plus extra Working with 1 piece of dough at a time, use the palm for dusting of your hand to flatten it gently. With the long side facing you, • 325 g (scant 1 ⅓ cups) fold in a third towards the center and press along the edge water at 68°f (20°c) • 100 g (scant ½ cup) with your fingertips [ 1 ]. Swivel the dough 180 degrees. liquid sourdough starter Fold in the other long edge so that it overlaps in the center (or 25 g [3 tablespoons] and press with the heel of your hand. Fold one half on top dry sourdough starter) of the other, and seal the edges together with the heel of your • 3 g (1 teaspoon) fresh hand [ 2 ]. baker’s yeast, crumbled • 10 g (2 teaspoons) salt With lightly floured hands, roll the baguette out to 21 inches (55 cm) long, then pinch each end into a point [ 3 ]. Shape the

other 2 baguettes the same way. 4

Carefully lift the baguettes onto a lightly floured baker’s cloth, seams underneath. Separate them by making folds in the cloth. Cover with a damp cloth and leave to proof for 1 hour 40 minutes, by which time the baguettes will have increased in volume [ 4 ].

Place a baking sheet on the bottom shelf of the oven and preheat to 450°f (230°c). Gently place the baguettes, seam down, on another baking sheet lined with parchment (baking) paper. Dust with flour and make 4 evenly spaced oblique slashes along the length of each baguette [ 5 ]. Just before putting the baguettes in the oven, pour 50 g (scant ¼ cup) of water onto the preheated baking sheet. Bake for 20 minutes.

Remove from the oven and leave to cool on a wire rack.

5

54 55 Traditional Breads

14-11-07_BookofBread-2-TraditionalLoaves-ML.indd 54 11/11/2014 15:13 14-11-07_BookofBread-2-TraditionalLoaves-ML.indd 55 11/11/2014 15:13 KNEADING IN A STAND MIXER Put the flour, water, starter, fresh yeast, salt, sugar, and egg in the mixing bowl. Knead with the dough hook for 4 minutes at low speed, then for 3 minutes at high speed. Add the butter and knead at high speed for another 3 minutes. Bagels KNEADING BY HAND Put the flour on a work surface or in a mixing bowl and make a large well in the center. Pour in half the water, then add the starter, fresh yeast, salt, sugar, and egg. Mix well, then add the remaining water and knead until all the flour Makes 9 bagels, is incorporated. Add the butter and knead the dough until it each about 100 g becomes smooth and elastic. 1 2 3

timings Put the dough onto a floured work surface [ 1 ]. Use your hands • Mixing & kneading: 10 min to flatten and roll it into a rough oblong [ 2, 3 ]. Use a dough • First rising: 1 h cutter to divide the dough into 9 equal piece [ 4 ]. Cover with • Resting time: 15 min a damp cloth and leave to rest for 15 minutes. • Proofing: 30 min • Boiling: 30 min Roll each piece of dough under your hands to form nicely • Baking: 15 min rounded balls [ 5, 6 ]. Dust the tops with flour, then push your finger into the center of each ball to form a hole [ 7 ]. ingredients Gradually stretch the holes and widen them to a diameter • 500 g (4 cups) all-purpose of around 1 inch (2.5 cm) to create the traditional bagel ring (plain) flour, plus extra [ 8, 9, 10 ]. Cover the bagels with a damp cloth and leave for dusting to proof for 30 minutes. • 200 g (scant 1 cup) 4 5 6 water at 68°f (20°c) • 100 g (scant ½ cup) Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil. Reduce to a simmer, liquid sourdough starter then lower in the bagels, 1 at a time, with a slotted spoon (or 25 g [2 tablespoons] [ 11 ]. Cook for 1 minute 30 seconds, then turn the bagels over dry sourdough starter) in the simmering water and cook for another 1 minute • 5 g (1 ½ teaspoons) 30 seconds. They will expand as they cook [ 12 ]. Let the fresh baker’s yeast bagels drain on a wire rack set above the sink. Cook the • 10 g (2 teaspoons) salt remaining bagels the same way. • 20 g (2 tablespoons) sugar • 2 eggs Prepare 2 large plates, 1 covered with poppy seeds, the other • 25 g (2 tablespoons) with sesame seeds. In a small bowl, lightly beat the egg. softened butter Brush the cooked bagels lightly with beaten egg, then roll • Poppy and sesame seeds for topping them in poppy or sesame seeds. Leave some plain. Arrange them on baking sheets lined with parchment (baking) paper. 7 8 9 Place another baking sheet on the bottom shelf of the oven and preheat to 400°f (200°c). Just before putting the bagels in the oven, pour 50 g (scant ¼ cup) of water onto the preheated baking sheet. Bake for 15 minutes.

Remove from the oven and leave to cool on a wire rack.

10 11 12

138 139 Specialty Breads

14-11-07_BookofBread-3-SpecialtyBreads-ML.indd 138 11/11/2014 15:24 14-11-07_BookofBread-3-SpecialtyBreads-ML.indd 139 11/11/2014 15:24 new image; requires proofing

Bagels 140 141 Specialty Breads

14-11-07_BookofBread-3-SpecialtyBreads-ML.indd 140 11/11/2014 15:24 14-11-07_BookofBread-3-SpecialtyBreads-ML.indd 141 11/11/2014 15:24 KNEADING IN A STAND MIXER Put the flour, water, starter, fresh yeast, salt, powder and sugar in the bowl. Knead with the dough hook for Walnut 5 minutes at low speed [ 1 ], then for 7 minutes at high speed. Mix in the butter [ 2 ] and knead for another 3 minutes. & Add the walnuts and mix in briefly at low speed. Butter KNEADING BY HAND Bread Put the flour on a work surface or in a mixing bowl and make a large well in the center. Pour in half the water, then add the starter, fresh yeast, salt, milk powder, and sugar. Mix well, Makes 5 loaves, then add the rest of the water and blend until all the flour each about 220 g has been incorporated. Add the butter and knead the dough 1 2 3 until it becomes smooth and elastic. Add the walnuts at timings the end of the kneading. • Mixing & kneading: 15 min • First rising: 1 h 30 min Shape the dough into a ball, cover with a damp cloth, and • Resting: 15 min leave to rise for 1 hour 30 minutes. Midway through the rise, • Proofing: 1 h 15 min deflate the dough by folding it in half. It will have increased • Baking: 17 min in volume by the end of the rising time.

ingredients Dust the work surface. Divide the dough into 5 equal pieces • 500 g (4 cups) all-purpose and shape them into balls. Cover with a damp cloth and leave (plain) flour, plus extra to rest for 15 minutes. for dusting • 225 g (scant 1 cup) Working with 1 piece of dough at a time, use the palm water at 68°f (20°c) of your hand to flatten it gently into a rough oval. With the • 100 g (scant ½ cup) liquid sourdough starter long side facing you, fold in a third towards the center and (or 25 g [3 tablespoons] press along the edge with your fingertips. Swivel the dough dry sourdough starter) 180 degrees. Fold in the other long edge so that it overlaps • 5 g (1 ½ teaspoons) fresh in the center and press again. Fold one half on top of the other baker’s yeast, crumbled and seal the edges together with the heel of your hand [ 3 ]. • 10 g (2 teaspoons) salt With lightly floured hands, roll the dough out to form a plump • 25 g (¼ cup) milk powder oval. Shape the other 4 loaves the same way. Image • 35 g (scant ¼ cup) sugar positioning has changed • 75 g (⅓ cup) Score the loaves diagonally in a “sausage” cut [ 4 ] (see page 41). softened butter Place them, seams underneath, on a floured baker’s cloth. • 150 g (1 ½ cups) walnuts, Separate them by making folds in the cloth. Cover with a damp chopped cloth and leave to proof for 1 hour 15 minutes.

Place a baking sheet on the bottom shelf of the oven and preheat to 450°f (230°c). Arrange the loaves on another baking sheet lined with parchment (baking) paper. Just before putting the loaves in the oven, pour 50 g (scant ¼ cup) of water onto the preheated baking sheet. Bake for 17 minutes.

Hold Remove from the oven and leave to cool on a wire rack. background

4

186 187 Breads with Extras

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Walnut & Butter Bread 188 189 Breads with Extras

14-11-07_BookofBread-5-BreadsWithExtras-ML.indd 188 11/11/2014 15:27 14-11-07_BookofBread-5-BreadsWithExtras-ML.indd 189 18/11/2014 09:39 conversions Glossary

Words with an asterisk* are explained within this glossary.

Weight Volumes Measurements

10 g — ¼ oz 5 ml — 1 teaspoon 3 mm — ⅛ inch 20 g — ½ oz 10 ml — 1 dessert spoon 5 mm — ¼ inch 25 g — 1 oz 15 ml — 1 tablespoon 1 cm — ½ inch 50 g — 2 oz 30 ml — 1 fl oz 2 cm — ¾ inch 60 g — 2 ½ oz 50 ml — 2 fl oz 2.5 cm — 1 inch 75 g — 3 oz 75 ml — 3 fl oz 3 cm — 1 ¼ inches 100 g — 3 ½ oz 100 ml — 3 ½ fl oz 4 cm — 1 ½ inches 110 g — 4 oz 125 ml — 4 fl oz (½ pt) 5 cm — 2 inches 150 g — 5 oz 150 ml — 5 fl oz (¼ pt) 6 cm — 2 ¼ inches 175 g — 6 oz 200 ml — 7 fl oz (⅓ pt) 7. 5 c m — 2 ½ inches 200 g — 7 oz 250 ml — 9 fl oz 9 cm — 3 inches 225 g — 8 oz 300 ml — 10 fl oz (½ pt) 10 cm — 3 ½ inches 250 g — 9 oz 350 ml — 12 fl oz 11.5 cm — 4 ½ inches 275 g — 10 oz 400 ml — 14 fl oz 12.5 cm — 5 inches Amylase Banneton Couche 350 g — 12 oz 425 ml — 15 fl oz 15 cm — 6 inches A natural enzyme found in flour A wicker proofing basket, Heavy-weight linen fabric 400 g — 14 oz 450 ml — 16 fl oz 17 cm — 6 ½ inches that breaks down starch into usually lined with heavy linen. (also known as a baker’s cloth) 450 g — 1 lb 500 ml — 18 fl oz 18 cm — 7 inches fermentable . These are Used for proofing*, particularly used for proofing*. Folds in 500 g — 600 ml — — 18 oz 20 fl oz (1 pt) 20.5 cm 8 inches then mainly converted into carbon for very wet . the cloth keep the pieces 600 g — 1 ¼ lb 700 ml — 1 ¼ pints 23 cm — 9 inches dioxide (co2) and alcohol during of dough separate and prevent 700 g — 1 ½ lb 850 ml — 1 ½ pints 24 cm — 9 ½ inches fermentation*. Base Temperature them from touching. 900 g — 2 lb 1 liter — 1 ¾ pints 25.5 cm — 10 inches Used to calculate the temperature 1 kg — 2 ¼ lb 1.2 liters — 2 pints 30.5 cm — 11 inches Ash content of dough after kneading, usually crumb 1.1 kg — 2 ½ lb 1.5 liters — 2 ½ pints 1.3 kg — 3 lb 1.8 liters — 3 pints This is a European method used 75–77°f (24–25°c), by adding A term used to define the 1.5 kg — 3 lb 5 oz 2 liters — 3 ½ pints to determine a flour’s type (“t” the ambient (room) temperature inside of the bread. By looking 1.6 kg — 3 ½ lb grade). It represents the mineral to the temperature of the flour at the cell structure of the 1.8 kg — 4 lb residue left after flour is burnt at and water. crumb, bakers can analyze the 2 kg — 4 ½ lb a temperature of 1652°f (900°c). hydration, flour types, and yeast 2.2 kg — 5 lb The higher the t grade, the more Bassinage amounts. husks (bran*) are present in the A process whereby a quantity flour, making it more “complete.” of water is held in reserve and Deflate Flours Temperatures then added at the end of kneading To release air from the dough baker’s Lame All-purpose (plain) flour — Farine de blé t65 F° C° Gas Description to loosen a very stiff dough. during the first fermentation Organic all-purpose (plain) flour — Farine de blé t65 bio A razor-sharp baker’s knife, usually (first rise). This is achieved Organic stone-ground fllour — Farine de meule t65 bio 225 110 ¼ Very cool mounted on a special handle, used BAtard by folding the dough over on itself. Organic flour for rolls or baguettes — Farine de blé t80 250 130 ½ — to score* dough prior to baking. A torpedo-shaped loaf, shorter It helps strengthen the gluten Organic fine stone-ground flour — Farine de meule t80 bio 275 140 1 cool than a baguette, but not as round structure and helps the dough Whole wheat flour — Farine de blé t110 300 150 2 — Baker’s peel as the old-style pain de deux livres. rise more effectively during the Coarse whole wheat flour — Farine de blé t150 325 170 3 very moderate A wooden paddle used to slide second fermentation* (proofing*). Coarse, organic whole wheat flour — Farine de blé t150 bio 350 180 4 moderate dough—especially and Bouler Light rye flour — Farine de seigle t80 375 190 5 — —into the oven. To shape dough into balls. Fermentation Medium rye flour — Farine de seigle t130 400 200 6 moderately hot The French boule (round loaf) gets An organic chemical activity Dark rye flour — Farine de seigle t170 425 220 7 hot Baker’s Yeast its name from this word. whereby sugars contained in the Buckwheat flour — Farine de sarrasin 450 230 8 — A single-celled micro-organism flour are transformed in an Fine cornmeal flour — Farine de mais 475 240 9 very hot (Saccharomyces cerevisiae) Bran anaerobic environment (without Fine semolina flour — Semoule de blé used to leaven bread. It is capable The outer husk or hull of cereals, air) through the action of yeasts Wheat bran — Son de blé Chestnut flour — Farine de chataigne of reproducing and multiplying which can be removed or retained and enzymes (see amylase*). Soya flour — Farine de soya very rapidly in sugar-rich during grinding. The bran contains In baking, the fermentation Spelt flour — Far ine d’épautre environments, converting sugars the bulk of a grain’s fiber. is “alcoholic,” in that the simple Einkorn flour — Farine d’engrain (bio) into carbon dioxide, which makes sugars (, maltose) are the dough rise. broken down by yeasts into carbon dioxide and ethyl alcohol. Carbon

305 Conversions Glossary 306

14-11-17_BookofBread-9-Endmatter-ML SB.indd 305 18/11/2014 09:58 14-11-10_BookofBread-9-Endmatter-ML SB.indd 306 11/11/2014 15:44 dioxide causes the dough to rise. Leaven Simmer The fermentation comprises two To incorporate a rising agent— To cook in liquid just below the stages: first rise* after kneading, natural starter, yeast, baking boiling point, around 208°f (98°c). and proofing* after shaping. powder, etc.—into a dough to make Small bubbles rise through Index it ferment and rise. Natural leavens, the liquid and break the surface. first resting such as sourdough starters, use Also known as autolyse, this is natural “wild” yeasts in the dough Stale Page numbers in italics refer to the illustrations a pre-fermentation resting period, to start the fermentation*. Over time, moisture is gradually prior to kneading. This process lost from bread and it becomes helps the gluten* develop more Poolish stale. As it does so, the bread quickly, gives a more elastic A pre-ferment (starter) made becomes hard and both aroma dough, and reduces the length with a mix of equal parts of water and flavor deteriorate. of kneading time. and flour. Used in conjunction with fresh baker’s yeast. Steam injection First Rise A process of introducing water The first period of fermentation* ProOF/proOFING time into an oven to create steam that begins after kneading Known as l’apprêt, this is the as the dough goes in to bake. but before the dough is divided second stage of fermentation, This is achieved by splashing water into pieces and shaped*. It is which begins after the dough has onto a preheated baking sheet. done at room temperature in a been portioned and shaped, and draft-free spot and can include a continues until it is put in the oven. Steep period in the refrigerator. It is done at room temperature To immerse and soak seeds in a draft-free spot. or fruit (usually dried) in a liquid A benoitons, raisin 248, 249, 303 C Glaze to soften and rehydrate them. acidity, dough 30 boule 48, 48–51, 293 candied orange peel To create a glossy appearance Refresh air bubbles 30 bow tie bread 90, 91, 294 green tea & orange loaf on the surface of a bread. To keep a natural starter alive Tourage all-purpose (plain) flour 15 bowls 18 176, 176–9, 299 Often achieved by brushing the by feeding it with flour and water. A term used in French patisserie, anaerobic micro-organisms 28 braided loaf 58, 62, 62–3, 293 orange bread dough with a lightly beaten egg whereby butter is rolled out apples bran loaf 110, 110–11, 295 180, 180–1, 299 just prior to baking. and folded into a dough to enrich starter 26 bread chart 293–305 carbon dioxide 24, 28, 30, 38 Rest and lighten the texture as it bakes. ash content, flour 15 bread lames 18 cheese Gluten To set a dough aside after kneading* ash goat cheese, bread ring 86, 86–9, 294 fougasse with ash goat cheese The elastic matter formed or working. This allows the gluten*, Well fougasse with 220, 220–1, 302 bread rolls with lardons 220, 220–1, 302 in dough by the proteins (mainly which will tighten as the dough A large hollow created in the center autolyse method 26 & pecans 272, 273–5, 305 fougasse with black & green gliadins and glutenins), when is worked, to relax. of a mound of flour (on a work breadsticks 206, 286, 286–9, 305 olives 222, 223–5, 302 kneaded with liquid. Found in surface or in a bowl) to contain B brioche fougasse with lardons nearly all cereals used for bread. Scoring liquid ingredients. The dry bacon brioche loaf 246, 246–7, 303 226, 227, 302 Kneading* develops the glutens The process of making shallow ingredients are gradually worked bread rolls with lardons classic brioche 242, 243, 303 gorgonzola & walnut bread into strands that form cuts or slashes, in various designs, into the liquid, so as to create & pecans 272, 273–5, 305 mini 244, 244–5 174, 174–5, 299 a glutinaceous network. These along the surface of the dough. a smooth, well-blended paste. fougasse with lardons problems 44, 44 pizza 228, 229–31, 302 contain the carbon dioxide that Usually done just prior to baking. 226, 227, 302 broa 136, 136–7, 296 chestnut flour bread, gluten-free expands during the fermentation Scoring helps to control the way bacteria, fermentation 24 buckwheat flour 122, 122–3, 296 and subsequent baking. the bread rises as it bakes. bagels 138, 138–41, 297 buckwheat ciabatta chevron, scoring dough 41 baguettes 42, 54, 54–5, 293 210, 210–11, 301 chocolate Hydration Seam organic baguette 148, 148–9, 298 organic buckwheat bread hazelnut & chocolate rolls The ratio of water to flour The point at which the edges petite baguette 66, 66–7, 293 158, 158–9, 298 280, 281–3, 305 in a given recipe. of the dough—both in a ball poppy-seed baguettes 150, 150–1 bulgur wheat pain au chocolat and a long shape—meet to form pre-shaping 32 pumpernickel 132, 132–5, 296 254–6, 255–7, 304 Knead a closure, or seam. problems 45 buns, sesame 142, 142–3, 297 Viennese bread The process of working a dough, sesame-seed baguettes 150, 150–1 butter 236, 237–9, 303 by hand or in a stand mixer, Shaping shaping 36–7, 36–7 brioche loaf 246, 246–7, 303 ciabatta to evenly blend the ingredients The process which gives the dough baker’s cloths 18 classic brioche 242, 243, 303 buckwheat ciabatta and to develop the gluten. its form. Often done in two stages, baker’s peel 64, 64–5, 293 croissants 250–2, 250–3, 304 210, 210–11, 301 Kneading* by hand involves pushing but it is the second, more precise baker’s yeast 16, 28 hazelnut & butter bread mixed-seed ciabatta and pulling the dough on a work shaping, that creates the final baking bread 42 172, 172–3, 299 208, 208–9, 301 surface, turning it and shaping* appearance of the baked loaf. baking stones 18, 42 pain au chocolat plain ciabatta it to aerate the dough and help bannetons 18 254–6, 255–7, 304 202, 202–5, 301 it form a glutinaceous network. basil bread 216, 216–17, 301 pains aux raisins pumpkin-seed ciabatta As the structure changes, baskets, proofing 18 264–6, 265–7, 304 212, 212–13, 301 the dough becomes smoother and batard 52, 52–3, 293 walnut & butter bread round ciabatta 214, 214–15 more elastic. shaping 34, 35 186, 186–9, 300 classic brioche 242, 243, 303

307 Glossary Index 308

14-11-10_BookofBread-9-Endmatter-ML SB.indd 307 11/11/2014 15:44 14-11-10_BookofBread-9-Endmatter-ML SB.indd 308 11/11/2014 15:44 classic organic bread E grignettes 19 mixers 18 organic stone-ground bread 130, 131 154, 154 –7, 298 eggs grissini 206, 288 kneading dough 23, 23 with currants 168, 168–9, 298 rational farming 14–15 cooling bread 42 brioche loaf 246, 246 –7, 303 mixing bowls 19 organic whole wheat bread rising 24, 26, 30 cornmeal classic brioche 242, 243, 303 H molds 19 166, 167, 298 rolls 269–89 broa 136, 136–7, 296 einkorn flour 15 ham poppy-seed baguettes 150, 150–1 bread rolls with lardons & cornmeal loaf 96, 96–7, 295 organic einkorn bread pizza 228, 229–31, 302 N sesame-seed baguettes pecans 272, 273–5, 305 gluten-free corn bread 164, 164–5, 298 hazelnuts naturally-leavened breads 150, 150–1 breadsticks 286, 286–9, 305 120, 120–1, 296 ekmek 130, 130–1, 296 hazelnut & butter bread see organic breads organic flours 14–15 hazelnut & chocolate rolls couches 19 electric stand mixers 19 172, 172–3, 299 nicking dough 38 ovens 42 280, 281–3, 305 country loaf 108, 108–9, 295 kneading dough 23, 23 hazelnut & chocolate rolls nuts Kamut® & seaweed rolls couronne bread ring 86, 86–9, 294 energy, kneading dough 20 280, 281–3, 305 mixed fruit & nut crowns P 278, 278–9, 305 crc (Culture Raisonée epi 58, 60, 60–1, 293 hedgehog cut, scoring dough 41 192, 192–5, 300 pain au chocolat 254–6, 255–7, 304 Paris buns 234, 235, 303 et Controlée) standard 14, 15 pre-shaping 32 history, yeast bread 28 see also hazelnuts; pain de méteil 116 pistolets 276, 276–7, 305 crème fraîche equipment 18–19, 18–19 honey pecan nuts; walnuts pains aux raisins 264–6, 265–7, 304 poppy-seed rolls 270, 271, 305 fougasse with ash goat cheese ethanol 28 ekmek 130, 130–1, 296 all’olio 206 vanilla rolls 258, 259, 304 220, 220–1, 302 honey bread 184, 184–5, 300 O pans 19 walnut & raisin rolls fougasse with lardons F pumpernickel 132, 132–5, 296 oil-enriched breads 201–31 Pasteur, Louis 28 284, 284–5, 305 226, 227, 302 fancy loaves 58–62, 59–63, 293 husks, wheat 15 basil bread 216, 216 –17, 301 pastries rosemary focaccia 124, 124–7, 296 croissants 250–2, 250–3, 304 farming, rational 14–15 buckwheat ciabatta see sweet pastries & breads round ciabatta 214, 214–15 cross shape, scoring dough 38 fermentation 24–31 I 210, 210–11, 301 pastry cream 264 round loaves 42 crosshatch, scoring dough 39 pre-fermentation methods 26 incising dough 38 fougasse with ash goat cheese pecan nuts shaping 34–5, 34–5 crowns, mixed fruit & nut stages of 30 ingredients 16 220, 220–1, 302 bread rolls with lardons rustic loaf 68, 68–9, 294 192, 192–5, 300 fermented dough method 26 fougasse with black & green & pecans 272, 273–5, 305 rye flour crust, problems 45 ficelle 58–9, 59, 293 K olives 222, 223–5, 302 petite baguette 66, 66–7, 293 bow tie bread 90, 91, 294 Culture Raisonée et Controlée pre-shaping 32 Kamut® flour 15, 102 fougasse with lardons pH scale 30 bran loaf 110, 110–11, 295 (crc) standard 14, 15 fig bread 182, 182–3, 299 Kamut® & seaweed rolls 226, 227, 302 pistachio loaf 262, 262–3 country loaf 108, 108–9, 295 currants firm starter 24 278, 278–9, 305 mixed-seed ciabatta pistolets 276, 276 –7, 305 couronne bread ring stone-ground bread with “first mill” loaf 94, 94–5 Kamut® bread 208, 208–9, 301 pithivier, scoring dough 39 86, 86–9, 294 currants 168, 168–9, 298 flours 14–15 100, 100–1, 103, 295 pizza 228, 229–31, 302 pizza 228, 229–31, 302 daisy loaf 76, 76–7, 294 cuttlefish ink bread 198, 198–9, 300 focaccia, rosemary 124, 124 –7, 296 Khorasan wheat flour see plain ciabatta 202, 202–5, 301 pizza stones 19, 42 honey bread 184, 184–5, 300 fougasse Kamut® flour pumpkin-seed ciabatta plain flour 15 maslin loaf 116, 116–19, 296 D fougasse with ash goat cheese kneading 20–3, 21–3 212, 212–13, 301 le pointage 24, 26 pumpernickel 132, 132–5, 296 daisy loaf 76, 76–7, 294 220, 220–1, 302 round ciabatta 214, 214–15 polka bread 56, 56–7, 293 raisin benoitons 248, 249, 303 dehydrated starter 16 fougasse with black & green L sun-dried tomato bread scoring dough 39 rye bread 112, 112–15, 295 digital probe thermometers 18 olives 222, 223–5, 302 lactic bacteria 24 218, 218–19, 302 poolish method 26 Swiss “cross” bread double slash, scoring dough 40 fougasse with lardons lardons oil 206, 206 poppy seeds 144, 144–5, 297 dough 226, 227, 302 bread rolls with lardons see also oil-enriched breads poppy-seed baguettes 150, 150–1 walnut & raisin rolls acidity 30 four slashes, scoring dough 40 & pecans 272, 273–5, 305 olives poppy-seed rolls 270, 271, 305 284, 284–5, 305 fermentation 24–31 freezing dough 34 fougasse with lardons fougasse with black & green portemanteau 78, 79–81, 294 zigzag bread 84, 84–5, 294 final shaping 34–7, 34–7 fresh baker’s yeast 16 226, 227, 302 olives 222, 223–5, 302 pre-fermentation methods 26 freezing 34 levain liquide 16, 24–5 orange-flower water pre-shaping 32–3, 32–3 S kneading 20–3, 21–3 G liquid sourdough starter 16, 24–5 green tea & orange loaf proofing 30 Saccharomyces cerevisiae 28 pre-shaping 32–3, 32–3 une gâche 64 long loaves 176, 176–9, 299 proofing baskets 18 salt 16 problems 45 gluten 15 storing 42 orange bread 180, 180–1, 299 Pullman loaf 260, 260–1, 304 sausage cut, scoring dough 41 proofing 30 gluten-free chestnut flour bread pre-shaping 32 orange peel pumpernickel 132, 132–5, 296 scales 18 rising 30 122, 122–3, 296 green tea & orange loaf pumpkin-seed ciabatta scoring dough 38, 38–41, 44, 44, 45 scoring 38, 38–41, 44, 44, 45 gluten-free cornbread M 176, 176–9, 299 212, 212–13, 301 seaweed dough cutters 19 120, 120–1, 296 macatia bread 128, 128–9, 296 organic breads 147–69 Kamut® & seaweed rolls dough scrapers 18 goat cheese maslin loaf 116, 116–19, 296 classic organic bread Q 278, 278–9, 305 dried fruit fougasse with ash goat cheese measuring cups 19 154, 154–7, 298 Quinn, Bob 102 seeds mixed fruit & nut crowns 220, 220–1, 302 méteil 116 organic baguette mixed-seed bread 192, 192–5, 300 golden raisins milk 148, 148–9, 298 R 98, 98–9, 295 organic stone-ground bread pains aux raisins Paris buns 234, 235, 303 organic buckwheat bread raisins mixed-seed ciabatta with currants 168, 168–9, 298 264–6, 265–7, 304 Pullman loaf 260, 260–1, 304 158, 158–9, 298 pains aux raisins 208, 208–9, 301 pains aux raisins 264–6, 265–7, 304 gorgonzola & walnut bread mini brioches 244, 244–5 organic einkorn bread 264–6, 265–7, 304 pumpernickel 132, 132–5, 296 raisin benoitons 248, 249, 303 174, 174–5, 299 mixed fruit & nut crowns 164, 164–5, 298 raisin benoitons 248, 249, 303 see also poppy seeds; walnut & raisin rolls grapes 192, 192–5, 300 organic spelt bread walnut & raisin rolls sesame seeds 284, 284–5, 305 starter 26 mixed-seed bread 98, 98–9, 295 160, 160–3, 298 284, 284–5, 305 semolina bread 106, 106–7, 295 dry yeast 16 green tea & orange loaf mixed-seed ciabatta organic stone-ground bread raspberries sesame seeds 176, 176–9, 299 208, 208–9, 301 152, 152–3, 298 ekmek with dried raspberries ekmek with black sesame

309 Index Index 310

14-11-10_BookofBread-9-Endmatter-ML SB.indd 309 11/11/2014 15:44 14-11-10_BookofBread-9-Endmatter-ML SB.indd 310 11/11/2014 15:44 seeds 130, 131 sugar syrup 264, 266 U sesame buns 142, 142–3, 297 sun-dried tomato bread unbleached flours 15 sesame-seed baguettes 218, 218–19, 302 150, 150–1 sweet pastries & breads 233–67 V sesame-seed bread brioche loaf 246, 246–7, 303 vanilla rolls 258, 259, 304 196, 196–7, 300 classic brioche 242, 243, 303 Viennese bread 236, 237–9, 303 shaping croissants 250–2, 250–3, 304 final shaping 34–7, 34–7 mini brioches 244, 244–5 W pre-shaping 32–3, 32–3 pain au chocolat walnuts single slash, scoring dough 40 254–6, 255–7, 304 gorgonzola & walnut bread slashing dough 38, 40 pains aux raisins 174, 174–5, 299 sourdough starter, 264–6, 265–7, 304 walnut & butter bread fermentation 24–5 Paris buns 234, 235 186, 186–9, 300 soy flour pistachio loaf 262, 262–3 walnut & raisin rolls gluten-free chestnut flour Pullman loaf 260, 260–1, 304 284, 284–5, 305 bread 122, 122–3, 296 raisin benoitons 248, 249, 303 water 16 specialty breads 93–145 sugar bread 240, 240–1, 303 weighing scales 19 bagels 138, 138–41, 297 vanilla rolls 258, 259, 304 wheat bran loaf 110, 110–11, 295 Viennese bread composition of 15 broa 136, 136–7, 296 236, 237–9, 303 flour 14 cornmeal loaf 96, 96–7, 295 swirl, scoring dough 39 Kamut® wheat 102 country loaf 108, 108–9, 295 Swiss “cross” bread 144, 144–5, 297 wheat germ 15 ekmek 130, 130–1, 296 wheat bran “first mill” loaf 94, 94–5 T bran loaf 110, 110–11, 295 gluten-free chestnut flour tabatiere 70, 70–3, 294 whole wheat bread bread 122, 122–3, 296 Tacoun, Norbert 128 104, 104–5, 166, 167, 295, 298 gluten-free corn bread tea “wild” yeasts 24, 28 120, 120–1, 296 green tea & orange loaf Kamut® bread 100, 100–1, 103, 295 176, 176–9, 299 Y macatia bread 128, 128–9, 296 temperatures yeast 16, 28, 28–9 maslin loaf 116, 116–19, 296 fermentation 24, 30 fermentation 24 mixed-seed bread 98, 98–9, 295 kneading dough 20 pre-fermentation 26 pumpernickel 132, 132–5, 296 oven 42 “wild” yeasts 24, 28 rosemary focaccia thermometers 18 yeast pre-ferment method 26 124, 124–7, 296 tomatoes rye bread 112, 112–15, 295 pizza 228, 229–31, 302 Z semolina bread 106, 106–7, 295 sun-dried tomato bread zigzag bread 84, 84–5, 294 sesame buns 142, 142–3, 297 218, 218–19, 302 Swiss “cross” bread traditional breads 47–91 144, 144–5, 297 baguettes 54, 54–5, 293 whole wheat bread baker’s peel 64, 64–5, 293 104, 104–5, 295 batard 52, 52–3, 293 spelt flour 15 boule 48, 48–51, 293 organic spelt bread bow tie bread 90, 91, 294 160, 160–3, 298 braided loaf 58, 62, 62–3, 293 split loaf 74, 75, 294 couronne bread ring square, scoring dough 39 86, 86–9, 294 starch 15 daisy loaf 76, 76–7, 294 starters epi 58, 60, 60–1, 293 dehydrated starter 16 ficelle 58–9, 59, 293 fermentation 24–5 petite baguette 66, 66–7, 293 liquid starter 16 polka bread 56, 56–7, 293 steam 19, 42 portemanteau 78, 79–81, 294 stone-baked bread 42 rustic loaf 68, 68–9, 294 stone-ground bread split loaf 74, 75, 294 152, 152–3, 298 tabatiere 70, 70–3, 294 stone-ground bread with the twist 82, 82–3, 294 currants 168, 168–9, 298 zigzag bread 84, 84–5, 294 storing bread 42 turmeric bread 190, 190–1, 300 sugar bread 240, 240–1, 303 the twist 82, 82–3, 294

311 Index

14-11-10_BookofBread-9-Endmatter-ML SB.indd 311 11/11/2014 15:44