I. Patterns by Enlargement Method and Needlework Technique

I. Patterns by Enlargement Method And Needlework Technique

This index is for both volumes of Fashions of the Developing from Another Pattern Gilded Age. For each entry, the volume number is Bertha (1), 2: 397 given, followed by a colon, then by the page Bertha (2), 2: 398 number(s); then, if appropriate, by a semicolon, Bodice with Narrow Shoulders and Back, another volume number, then page number(s). 1: 171–172 References to the introduction and chapter 1 are Bodice with Square Neck, 1: 252 given as 1 & 2, since this material is repeated with Bodice with Two Side Pieces, 1: 169 the same page numbers in both volumes. Bodice with Yoke, 1: 170 Numbers in parentheses distinguish different Circular Mantle, 2: 218–219 patterns with the same name. Close-Fitting, Four-Piece Jacket, 1: 200–201 Close-Fitting Jacket (1), 1: 236 Crocheting, Knitting, and Knotting Close-Fitting Jacket (2), 1: 237 Crocheted Chemise Yoke, 2: 379 Collars, 1 & 2: 40–41 Crocheted Edging, 2: 389 Dolman Coat, 2: 238–239 Crocheted Fringe (1), 2: 407–408 Dolman Mantelet, 2: 229–231 Crocheted Fringe (2), 2: 408 Half-Fitting Coat (1), 2: 173–174 Crocheted Fringe (3), 2: 409–410 Half-Fitting Coat (2), 2: 175–176 Crocheted Fringe (4), 2: 410–411 Half-Fitting Coat (3), 2: 177–178 Crocheted Fringe (5), 2: 411–412 Half-Fitting Coat (4), 2: 179–180 Crocheted Fringe (6), 2: 412–413 Half-High Shawl Neckline (1), 1: 272 Knitted and Buttonhole-Stitched Edging, 390 Half-High Shawl Neckline (2), 1: 273 Knitted and Crocheted Mitt, 2: 340–341 Half-Low Neckline, 1: 274 Knitted Insertion, 2: 385 Jacket with Shawl Collar (1), 1: 181–182 Knotted Fringe, 2: 409 Jacket with Shawl Collar (2), 1: 191–192 Mignardise and Crochet Insertion, 2: 386–387 Long Vest, 2: 116 Serpentine Braid and Crocheted Edging, Low Shawl Neckline, 1: 275 2: 375–376 MacFarlane, 2: 194–195 Tatted and Crocheted Edging, 2: 375 Mantle with Optional Pelerine and Hood, Woven Braid and Crocheted Edging, 2: 388–389 2: 200–203 Woven Braid and Crocheted Trimming Practice Coat, 1 & 2: 37–39 2: 374–375 Sacque Coat, 2: 181–182 Cutting by the Cloth Shawl-Shaped Fichu, 2: 314 Chemise, 1: 98–102. See also chemise patterns Single-Breasted Coat with Skirt, 2: 161–162 under Drafting with Apportioning Scales Sleeves, 1 & 2: 41–44 Skirt, 2: 467–471. See also skirt patterns Square Neckline, 1: 276 under Drafting with Ordinary Units

459 Index I

Traveling Coat or Waterproof with Pelerine, Double-Breasted Jacket with Attached Skirt, 2: 196–199 1: 229–230 Traveling Mantle or Waterproof, 2: 185–187 Double-Breasted, Half-Fitting Jacket or Coat, Vest, 2: 118 1: 242–243 Double-Breasted, Long Morning Dress, Drafting with Apportioning Scales 1: 135–136 Ball Mantle, 2: 222 Double-Breasted Vest, 2: 119 Basque Bodice for Medium–Sized Ladies, Double-Breasted Winter Coat, 2: 153–154 1: 173–174 Dressing Gown with Watteau Pleat, 1: 122–123 Basque Bodice for Very Stout Ladies, 1: 175–176 Evening Mantilla for Elderly Ladies, 2: 221 Basque Bodice with Imitation Vest, 1: 198–199 Gored Chemise with Moderately Low Neck, Basque Bodice with Lace Trimming, 1: 196–197 1: 79 Basque Bodice with Revers, 1: 187–188 Gored Chemise with Simple Sleeves, 1: 78 Basque Bodice with Round Neck, 1: 263–264 Half-Fitting Dressing Gown, 1: 120–121 Basque Bodice with Square Neck, 1: 257–258 Half-Fitting Jacket with Pocket Flaps, 1: 244–245 Basque Bodice with Tails (1), 1: 214 Half-Fitting, Single-Breasted Jacket (1), Basque Bodice with Tails (2), 1: 218–219 1: 238–239 Coat with Contrasting Material, 1: 208–209 Half-Fitting, Single-Breasted Jacket (2), Coat with Shawl Collar, 2: 157–158 1: 240–241 Chemise Buttoned on the Shoulders, 1: 95 Half-Fitting Waterproof or Traveling Mantle, Chemise with Crossed Neckband, 1: 84–85 2: 188–189 Chemise with Heart-Shaped Neck and Pleats, High-Necked Jacket Bodice (1), 1: 183–184 1: 86–87 High-Necked Jacket Bodice (2), 1: 210–211 Chemise with Narrow Neckband, 1: 81 Long, Close-Fitting Waterproof, 2: 183–184 Chemise with Narrow Shoulders, 1: 88 Long, Single-Breasted Jacket Bodice, 1: 177–178 Chemise with Narrow Shoulders and Small Low-Cut Basque for Ball and Evening, Sleeves, 1: 77 1: 247–248 Chemise with Neckband, 1: 80 Low-Cut Round Bodice for Ball and Evening, Chemise with Round Neck, 1: 75–76 1: 249–250 Chemise with Round Yoke, 1: 82 Mantelet for Evening (1), 2: 204 Chemise with Short Sleeves, 1: 93 Mantelet for Evening (2), 2: 205 Chemise with Square Neck, 1: 90–91 Nightdress with Back Yoke, 1: 137–138 Chemise with Square Yoke, 1: 94 Nightdress with Bands of Trimming, 1: 139–140 Chemise with Tucked Pieces, 1: 92 Night Jacket, 1: 141 Close-Fitting Coat-Jacket (1), 2: 151–152 Peignoir, 1: 118–119 Close-Fitting Coat-Jacket (2), 2: 155–156 Plain Bodice for Medium-Sized Ladies, Close-Fitting Polonaise, 1: 314–315 1: 161–162 Close-Fitting Sleeve, 1 & 2: 18 Plain Bodice for Stout Ladies, 1: 165–166 Corselet or Corset, 1: 52 Plain Bodice for Very Stout Ladies, 1: 167–168 Corset for Stout Ladies, 1: 55 Plain Bodice for Well-Developed Ladies, Corset for Young Ladies, 1: 51 1: 163–164 Corset without Gussets, 1: 54 Pointed Basque for Ball Toilette, 1: 251 Cuirass Bodice, 1: 189–190 Polonaise with Two Side Pieces, 1: 321–322 Dolman for Evening, 2: 223–224 Practice Bodice, 1 & 2: 15–19 Double-Breasted Basque Bodice (1), 1: 215–216 Princess Chemise, 1: 96–97 Double-Breasted Basque Bodice (2), 1: 217–218

460 Patterns by Method

Princess Dress, Waterproof, or Coat, 1: 426–428 Tunic for Evening Dress, 1: 286–287 Redingote with Revers, 2: 169–170 Underskirt for Evening Toilette, 1: 152–154 Riding Bodice or Riding Jacket, 2: 124–125 Underskirt with Buttoned-On Train, 1: 114–116 Riding Bodice with Basque, 2: 120–121 Walking Skirt, 1: 144 Riding Bodice with Short Basque, 2: 122–123 Shawl Mantilla for Evening, 2: 209 Embroidery Simple Half-Fitting Coat, 2: 159–160 Border, 2: 384 Single-Breasted, Close-Fitting Jacket, 1: 185–186 Border in Application and Embroidery, 2: 409 Single-Breasted, Half-Fitting Coat, 2: 163–164 Border of Colored Embroidery on Batiste (1), Single-Breasted Jacket Bodice, 1: 212–213 2: 404 Single-Breasted Jacket with Attached Skirt, Border of Colored Embroidery on Batiste (2), 1: 227–228 2: 404 Single-Breasted Morning Dress, 1: 133–134 Border of Colored Embroidery on Batiste (3), Tucked Chemise with Heart-Shaped Yoke, 1: 89 2: 405 Tucked Chemise with V-Shaped Yoke, 1: 83 Braided Cloth Jacket, 1: 231–235 Underbodice with Heart-Shaped Neck, 1: 104 Chain Stitch Border, 2: 405 Underbodice with Round Neck, 1: 103 Chain Stitch Embroidery, 2: 403 Vest with Falling Collar, 2: 117 Chemise with Russian Embroidery, 2: 377 Vest with Narrow Standing Collar, 2: 115 Cravat Bow with Spanish Embroidery, 2: 306 Waterproof, 2: 190–191 Cravat End, 2: 301–302 Waterproof for Stout Ladies, 2: 192–193 Cravat in Filigree Point, 2: 303–304 Winter Coat, 2: 171–172 Designs for Embroidered Collars, 2: 294 Embroidered Border, 2: 413 Drafting with Ordinary Units Embroidered Chemise, 2: 380–381 Bashlyk (1), 2: 284 Embroidered Cloth Dress, 1: 405–407 Bashlyk (2), 2: 285 Embroidered Parasol, 2: 348 Bedouin for Evening, 220 Embroidered Reticule, 2: 353–354 Circular Evening Cloak with Hood, 2: 216 Embroidered Slipper (1), 2: 364–365 Collar-Shaped Ball Cape, 2: 213 Embroidered Slipper (2), 2: 365 Court Train Skirt, 1: 145–146 Embroidery Design for Slipper, 2: 369 Demitrain Skirt, 1: 144–145 Insertion, 2: 384 Drawers with Two Trimmings, 1: 73–74 Neck Bow, 2: 299 Fichu, 2: 313–314 Renaissance Embroidery Border, 2: 392 Long Gaiters, 2: 359–360 Satchel with Spanish Embroidery, 2: 355–356 Long Underskirt in Two Styles, 1: 111–113 White Embroidery Border (1), 2: 385 Moderately Full Skirt without Train, 1: 147–149 White Embroidery Border (2), 2: 388 Moderately Full Skirt with Train, 1: 150–151 White Embroidery Border (3), 2: 391 Modern Riding Skirt, 2: 128–129 White Embroidery Border (4), 2: 391 Modern Riding Trousers, 2: 135–138 White Embroidery Border (5), 2: 392 Nightcap, 2: 277 White Embroidery Border (6), 2: 392 Ordinary Long Riding Trousers, 2: 130–132 Short Gaiters, 2: 359 Lace Making Short Riding Trousers, 2: 133–134 Border for Ball and Evening Dresses, 2: 405 Short Underskirt in Two Styles, 1: 107–108 Border of Point Lace Embroidery on Net (1), Shoulder Cape for Ball Toilette, 2: 212 2: 390 Train Skirt, 1: 145

461 Index I

Border of Point Lace Embroidery on Net (2), Embroidered Bathing Suit, 2: 145–146 2: 391 Embroidered Batiste and Lace Apron, 2: 318 Border of Point Lace Embroidery on Net (3), Embroidered Camel’s Hair Dress, 1: 408–414 2: 391 Embroidered Cloth Dress, 1: 405–407 Collar in Point Lace Embroidery, 2: 289–290 Embroidered Reticule, 2: 353–354 Collar of Russian Braid, 2: 288 Embroidered Slipper (1), 2: 364–365 Darned Net Fichu, 2: 310–311 Embroidered Slipper (2), 2: 365 Point Lace Embroidery on Net Border (1), English Surtout, 2: 165–168 2: 387 Evening Dress with Removable Train, 2: 76–81 Point Lace Embroidery on Net Border (2), Faille and Brocaded Wool Dress, 1: 354–358 2: 387–388 Faille and Foulard Dress, 1: 386–390 Wrought Guipure Border, 2: 387 Faille Evening Dress, 2: 72–75 Fan Skirt, 1: 155–157 Projecting or Gridding French Bunting Dress, 1: 415–419 Basque for Blue Crepe Lisse Dress, 1: 253–255 Grosgrain and Pointillé Cloth Wrapper, Basque for Brocade and Velvet Visiting Dress, 1: 131–132 1: 220–222 Grosgrain and Satin Dress, 1: 369–375 Basque for Green Chambery Gauze Dress, Grosgrain Reception Dress, 1: 348–353 1: 254–256 India Cashmere Pelerine, 2: 214–215 Bathing Cap, 2: 276 India Shawl Worn as a Cloak, 2: 240–241 Bathing Cap Trimmed with Leaves, 2: 274 Japanese Corset, 1: 56–57 Bathing Cap Trimmed with Ruffle, 2: 274–275 Lace Shawl Worn as a Fichu-Mantilla, 2: 207–208 Batiste, Tulle, and Lace Vest, 1: 105–106 Lace Shawl Worn as a Mantle, 2: 210–211 Beaded Tulle Fichu-Mantle, 2: 206 Linen and Lace Collar, 2: 295 Blonde Bertha, 2: 395 Linen Apron, 2: 317 Blue Cloth Riding Habit Bodice, 2: 126–127 Long, Close-Fitting Waterproof, 2: 183–184 Bodice for Striped Percale Suit, 1: 193–195 Loose Watteau Wrapper, 1: 127–130 Braided Cloth Jacket, 1: 231–235 Mantilla for Batiste Dress, 1: 320 Brocade Basque, 1: 265–267 Matelassé Hood, 2: 282 Brocade Bridal Toilette, 2: 107–111 Muslin Hoopskirt, 1: 62–64 Bunting Grenadine and Quadrillé Gauze Dress, Muslin Kitchen Apron, 2: 315–316 1: 429–433 Muslin Petticoat, 1: 109–110 Camel’s Hair Opera Cloak, 2: 225–226 Nainsook and Lace Vest, 1: 105–106 Cashmere and Satin Hood, 2: 280–281 Negligee Corset, 1: 58–61 Cashmere Peasant Bodice, 1: 179–180 Opera Hood, 2: 278–279 Cheviot Cloth Dress, 1: 376–381 Opera Mantle, 2: 217 Coattail Basque, 1: 268–271 Ottoman Silk and Figured Plush Dress, Collar in Point Lace Embroidery, 2: 289–290 1: 420–425 Collar of Russian Braid, 2: 288 Overdress for Cashmere and Satin Dress, Darned Net Fichu, 2: 310–311 1: 341–344 Designs for Embroidered Collars, 2: 294 Overdress for Mousseline des Indes Dress, Dimity Bustle, 1: 68–70 1: 311–313 Dress with Pointed Basque, 1: 391–393 Overdress for Reception Dress, 1: 329–332 Drilling Bathing Slipper, 2: 367 Overskirt for Beige and Satin Dress, 1: 308–309 Ecru Flannel Bathing Suit, 2: 142–144 Overskirt for Beige Dress, 1: 283–285 Embroidered Bag, 2: 352

462 Patterns by Method

Overskirt for Cashmere Dress, 1: 293–294 Satin and Brocade Evening Dress, 2: 86–89 Overskirt for Directoire Basque and Round Skirt, Satin and Tulle Ball Dress, 2: 52, 56–60 1: 299–301 Satin Ball Dress, 2: 52–55 Overskirt for Foulard Dress, 1: 305–307 Satin Bridal Toilette, 2: 98–101 Overskirt for Grosgrain Dress, 1: 291–292 Satin Dress, 2: 67–71 Overskirt for Habit Suit, 1: 288–290 Satin Duchesse and Brocade Reception Dress, Overskirt for Percale Dress, 1: 295–298 2: 82–85 Overskirt for Summer Dress, 1: 302–304 Satin Merveilleux Blouse with Velvet Bodice, Overskirt for Traveling Costume, 1: 279–280 1: 223–226 Overskirt for Traveling Suit, 1: 281–282 Satin Merveilleux Bridal Toilette, 2: 102–106 Pannier Bustle with Petticoat, 1: 65–67 Scarlet Flannel Bathing Suit, 2: 139–141 Pannier Mantle, 2: 232–234 Scotch Plaid Dress, 1: 364–368 Plain and Plaid Percale Dress, 1: 359–363 Shirred Mantle, 2: 242–243 Polonaise for Batiste Dress, 1: 316–319 Sicilienne Visite, 2: 235–237 Polonaise for Country Suit, 1: 336–340 Swiss Muslin Bridal Dress, 2: 92–97 Polonaise for Grenadine Dress, 1: 323–325 Swiss Muslin Cap, 2: 272 Polonaise for Grosgrain and Damask Dress, Tulle Evening Dress, 2: 61–63 1: 326–328 Velvet and Brocaded Gauze Evening Dress, Polonaise for Wool and Surah Satin Dress, 2: 64–66 1: 333–335 Velvet and Cashmere Dress, 1: 376, 382–385 Redingote for Sateen Dress, 1: 202–204 Velvet and Lace Collar and Cuff, 2: 286–287 Removable Petticoat Train, 1: 117 Velvet and Satin de Lyon Basque, 1: 205–207 Sacque for Morning Gown, 1: 124–126 Velvet Basque, 1: 259–262 Sacque for Skating Suit, 2: 147–148 Watteau Basque Dress, 1: 399–404 Satchel with Spanish Embroidery, 2: 355–356 White Serge Bathing Suit, 2: 139–141 Sateen Dress, 1: 394–398 Worth Mantle, 2: 227–228

463