Listing of Dress Collections in Museums and Other Institutions in the South, South East and South
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DRESS COLLECTIONS IN MUSEUMS AND OTHER INSTITUTIONS IN THE SOUTH, SOUTH EAST AND SOUTH WEST OF ENGLAND. LISTING - SECOND EDITION 2018 c/o School of Humanities, University of Brighton, UK (Image: A May Day Garland wood engraving by David Jones, c1925, St Dominic's) Press. Reproduced witH kind permission of Ditchling Museum) DRESS COLLECTIONS IN MUSEUMS AND OTHER INSTITUTIONS IN THE SOUTH, SOUTH EAST AND SOUTH WEST OF ENGLAND. LISTING -2nd EDITION: 2018 Contents 1 Bexhill-on-Sea Museum 2 Brighton Museum 3 Charleston House 4 Chertsey Museum 5 Ditchling Museum of Art and Craft 6 Dover Museum 7 Hampshire Cultural Trust Costume Collection 8 Haslemere Museum 9 Henfield Museum 10 Hastings Museum and Art Gallery 11 Honiton 12 Horsham Museum 13 Kent Costume Trust 14 Killerton House and the Royal Albert Memorial Museum, Exeter 15 Lewes Little Theatre London: 16 Brent Museums and Archives 17 Bruce Castle Museum 18 The Fan Museum 19 Museum of Richmond 20 Royal School of Needlework 21 Vestry House Museum 22 V&A Museum of Childhood 23 Warner Textile Archive 24 William Morris Gallery 25 Maidstone Museum and Bentlif Art Gallery 26 Petersfield Museum and the Flora Twort Gallery 27 Powell-Cotton Museum 28 Salisbury Museum 29 Smallhythe Place, National Trust 30 Southend Museum 31 St. Alban's Museum 32 Steyning Museum 33 Sussex Past 34 Totnes - Museum of Costume, Fashions and Textiles: The Devonshire Collection of Period Costume, 35 Tunbridge Wells Museum 36 Worthing Museum and Art Gallery University-based Collections 37 University of Brighton Dress History Teaching Collection 38 Middlesex University - Museum of Domestic Design ad Architecture. Dress Collections in Museums and Other Institutions in the South, South East and South West of England. Listing Edition 2. 2018: Introduction. This project has been achieved through the generous help of Jade Bailey-Dowling, Eve Flitman, Lucy Jane Ellis, Victoria Haddock, Paulina Kulacz and Annika Lennox, students from the MA in the History of Design and Material Culture at the University of Brighton. We thank them for their committed work. We also thank all curators and managers whose collections are introduced here and Dr. Paddy Maguire, Head of the School of Humanities for his continuous support. The original 2011 catalogue listing and its related website were compiled by Lou Taylor (now Prof. Emerita in Dress History) and Dr. Charlotte Nicklas, (Senior Lecturer at the University of Brighton) for the UK Costume Society's Annual Symposium, to publicise the wealth of museum collections in the South, SE and SW of England. This second edition has been put together for presentation at the conference 'Fashion and clothing collection, exhibition and research in small and medium sized museums in Europe' organised by the Research Interest Group 'Apparences, Corps et Sociétés at the Museum of Alsace, Strasbourg, 17-19 May 2018. Dress history staff at the University of Brighton are actively involved in this research group. All these collections, based in small and middle sized museums rather than national collections, contain precious dress and textile objects of local, regional and national significances vital to fresh innovative dress history research. We knew that this listing would provide our own students from BA to PhD level with rich, though often underused, research resources and indeed over the last seven years this has proved to be a truth. Please be aware that objects of dress illustrated here will not always be on public view. Appointments to access these collections must be made in advance. We stress that all images are copyrighted to the museums which own these artefacts and that requests for reproduction permission rights must be made directly to curators or museum managers. For any additions: please contact Lou Taylor, [E.P.Taylor] or Charlotte Nicklas [[email protected]] Our web site: http://arts.brighton.ac.uk/re/design-art-history/teaching-collection Cover Image: A May Day Garland, engraving, David Jones c. 1925, St Dominic's Press. Reproduced with kind permission of Ditchling Museum) BEXHILL MUSEUM Egerton Road, Bexhill-on-Sea, East Sussex TN39 3HL Tel: 01424 222058! www.bexhillmuseum.co.uk !Public opening hours: Tuesday – Friday: 10 AM – 5 PM; Saturday, Sunday, Monday, BankHolidays: 11 AM – 5 PM. Winter hours subject to revision. Contact: Curator- Julian Porter ([email protected]) The costume collection and museum was founded by Christine Porch and Isobel Overton and originated from the Thalia Theatrical School of Drama in approximately 1972. The Costume Museum was located in Manor Gardens and housed in what was the old stable block. The collection was merged with that of Bexhill Museum. It is now housed in the brand new wing of the museum, opened by Eddie Izzard after a £2 million refurbishment in July 2009, which funded the creation of our new social and dress history gallery as well as workshop and rolling storage space. The new gallery includes temporary, uncased exhibition space, where contemporary dress is frequently displayed. An education room is also available and used for different events ranging from Adult Education, W.I. and handling sessions of lace and costume for students, specialists and school children. The costume collection contains 1000s of garments and accessories, including a late 18th century elaborately embroidered gentleman’s coat, a rare mourning calash, boned corsets, Romantic period, Victorian, Edwardian and inter-war dress. There is also a large accessories collection: boots, shoes, parasols, fans, lace, shawls, and hats. One treasure is a mourning dress worn by Queen Victoria, in 1892 after the death of her grandson, Prince Albert, the Duke of Clarence, Dress worn by The Right Honourable Winston Churchill when he was aged four and a home-made League of Health and Beauty’ uniform from the mid 1930s. Detail, girl's linen and ruched silk embroidered tunic, Arts and Crafts movement – about 1900. Detail of 'crazy' quilt, about 1880-90. Child's dungarees, 'Cloth Kits', Lewes about 1970. BRIGHTON MUSEUM AND ART GALLERY Royal Pavilion Gardens, Brighton, East Sussex BN1 1EE www.brighton-hove-museums.org.uk Tuesday-Sunday, Bank Holidays 10am-5pm Contact Martin Pel, Costume Curator ([email protected]) Brighton Museum’s costume collection covers 400 years dress and is of local, national and international significance. It has been built up since the late 1960s and now features over 12,000 items of men, women, children’s dress and accessories. Around eighty percent of the collection is both twentieth century and women’s wear. Included is a strong collection of 1950s’ British couture which can be attributed to some 60 dressmakers, designers and tailors. There are also garments by around 25 international designers based in Paris, New York and Italy (Milan and Rome). The Messel Family Dress Collection (on permanent loan) is outstanding within international contexts. It has local history interest (the family lived at Nyman’s) and has an exceptional and rare group of clothes by London’s court dressmakers (19th/early 20th centuries) and top-level couture fashion dating from the early 1920s onwards. Exceptional are the unique and collection models made for Anne Messel by Charles James. Unconventional dress is an area of distinction and includes ‘artistic’ dress. Part of this is the Renegade collection, which tells the story of post-war subcultural women and, more importantly, men’s dress (punk, skinhead, mods, casuals) and is probably the only collection of its kind in UK museums. The collection also holds examples of royal dress including outfits from the coronation of King George IV (1821). The museum has staged fashion exhibitions since the opening of its first permanent fashion gallery and has included, Mariano Fortuny (1978), Fashion and Fancy Dress (2005), Little Black Dress (2007), Land Girls; Cinderellas of the Soil (2008) and Dress for Excess (2012; held in the Royal Pavilion). As a consequence of fashion exhibitions the museum holds some unique collections of dress. Fashion Cities Africa (2016/17) was curated by the World Art and the Fashion departments and displayed examples contemporary fashionable dress from the African cities Casablanca, Lagos, Nairobi and Johannesburg some of which are now held in the permanent collections. (The World Art department also holds examples of dress, textiles and masks from the Shan States of Burma, Papua New Guinea and African cloths from the late 19th century Sierra Leone.) Gluck; Art & Identity (2017/18) was based on a collection of clothing donated in 1977 by the radical LGBTQ artist Gluck and the museum is now actively collecting outfits from Sussex LGBTQ communities in a project called Queer Looks (in partnership with the London of College of Fashion’s Centre for Fashion Curation). This will tell stories of LGBTQ lives since the 1950s with these outfits, together with oral histories, will be kept by the museum as a resource for future researchers of LGBTQ history. The museum also holds the biggest collection of Biba and Barbara Hulanicki objects in the country since holding the exhibition Biba and Beyond; Barbara Hulanicki (2013). Les Ballets (1933) - funded by local arts patron Edward James with costumes and décor designed by leading avant-garde Paris-based artists, including Christian Bérard, André Derain, Pavel Tchelitchew and Caspard Neher - is also held by the fashion collection and is of international significance. Lace evening dress worn by Maud Messel, 1910-12; Man’s weding agbada, Nigeria, , Traveller’s patchwork skirt, 1980s. CHARLESTON FARMHOUSE Firle Lewes East Sussex BN8 6LL Visitor information:01323 811265 http://www.charleston.orG.uk/ Office Manager The Charleston Trust 01323 815143 [email protected] Charleston Farmhouse ('Bloomsbury in Sussex') was, from World War 1 onwards, the home and country meeting place for the writers, painters and intellectuals who made up the Bloomsbury Group.