r\ U Ly c r ^ -=4^-^ r J^^^ y^ ^^ ^->^ THE HISTORY OF FASHION IN FRANCE. 3-\MML THE HISTORY OF FASHION IN FRANCE; OR. THE DRESS OF WOMEN FROM THE GALLO-ROMAN PERIOD TO THE PRESENT TIME, FROM THE FRENCH OF M. AUGUSTIN CHALLAMEL. nv Mrs. CASHEL HOEY and Mr. JOHN LILLIE. S C R I R N E R A N IJ \V K L I' O k 1 J. I»»2. LONDON : PRINTED BY GILBERT AND RIVINGTON, LIMITED, ST. John's square. —— CONTENTS. INTRODUCTION. Various definitions of fashion—The grave side of its history—Quotations from the poets —Character of Frenchwomen—The refinement of their tastes and fancies — Paris the temple of fashion —The provinces ^Mdlle. Mars' yellow gown— The causes of fashion —A saying of Mme. de Girardin's —A remark of Mrs. TroUope's — The dress of actresses— Earliest theories of fashion— The Gyna;ceum of Amman First appearance of the "Journal des Dames et des Modes "—Lamesangere Other pubhcations—An anecdote concerning dolls— Plan of the History of Fashion in France CHAPTER I. THE GALLIC AND GALLO-ROMAN PERIOD. Gallic period—Woad, or the pastel—Tunics and boulgetes—"Mavors"and "Palla" — Cleanliness of the GaUic women -The froth of beer or "kourou"—The women of Marseilles; their marriage-portions — Gallo-Roman period — The Roman garment—The " stola "— Refinement of elegance—Extravagant luxury of women Artificial aids—A " vestiaire" or wardrobe-room of the period—Shoes—^Jewels and ornaments—The amber and crj'stal ball—Influence of the barbarians . -13 CHAPTER II. THE MEROVINGIAN PERIOD. Modifications in female dress after the Invasion of the Franks—Customs of the latter The Merovingians —Costumes of skins and felt ; cloaks and camlets—The coif, the veil, the skull-cap, the " guimpe," the cape—Fashionable Merovingian ladies adorn themselves with flowers — Various articles of dress— The "suint" —Young girls dress their hair without omamenis— St. Radegonde—The hair of married women . 21 CHAPTER III. THE CARLOVINGIAN PERIOD. Reign of Charlemagne—The women of the tenth century wear two tunics —Judith's belt—A veil is obligatory—Miniatures in the Mazarin Librai-y- Charles the Bald's Bible— Shoes—Dress of Queen Eutgarde—Dress of Rotrude and Bertha— Gisla and other kinswomen of the Emperor—The successors of Charlemagne— Cannes Adelaide of Vermandois —The dress of widows 25 — —- vi CONTENTS. CHAPTER IV. THE CARLOVINGIAN PERIOD. PAGE Earliest times of the Carlovingian period —Variety of costume in (lie provinces Fashions in the Duchy of France —French taste dating from tlie eleventh century —Luxury increases with each generation—The dominical —The "bliaud " —Canes of apple-wood—Women in the twelfth century — Head-dresses— "Afiche" Serpent-tails — Pelisses—The thirteenth century— " Greves " and veils are in fashion—The "couvre-chef " in the fourteenth century—The skirt, or " cotte- " hardie," surcoat, or overall, or overskirt, cape, trained skirt, and " gauzape Accessories Various kinds stuffs . —Emblazoned gowns— of . .31 CHAPTER V. THE INFLUENCE OF THE CRUSADES. Severity of feminine costume—Long gowns and gnii»f(s—Marguerite of Provence— "Fermaux" — Reappearance of splendour in dress— Eastern customs—The priests of fashion —Haberdasheiy and peacock-feathers—Female embroiderers—Taste for embroidery—Continual temptations —Earliest sumptuary laws —Furs—St. Louis's opinion on dress —Prohibitions by Philippe le Bel ; speech made by his wife Cr^pine -jo CHAPTER VI. REICNS OF JOHN AND OF CHARLES V. The States of Languedoc—A young French lady in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries— Low dresses— Saying of a mercer DamoiscUes—GarnacIus and garde corps— Le Paremetit des dames— Social distinctions— High character is worth more than gilded belt—Precious stones—The castles and other dwellings of the Middle Ages—Splendid furniture— Humble abodes of the poor—Evening assemblies . 45 CHAPTER VII. REIGNS OF CHARLES VI. AND CHARLES VII. Taste in dress becomes purer—Heart-shaped head-coverings, the "comette," and the " "hennin in the reign of Charles VL— Husbands complain—Preachers denounce —Thomas Connecte declaims against the diabolic invention—Brother Richard tries to reform it—The "hennin" gains the victory—Costume of Jeanne de Bourbon— "Escoffion"—An absurd figure— Gravou^re-Isabeau de Baviere— Gorgiasetes—Tripes—Splendour of the court—Agnes Sorel— "Coiffe adoum^e ;" diamonds ; the carcan—Walking-sticks ri CHAPTER VIII. REIGNS OF LOUIS XI., CHARLES VIII., AND LOUIS XII. Duchesses and bourgeoises under Louis XL— "La grand'gorre," or sumptuosity— The " troussoire "—Allegorical and moral costumes—Trains— Head-dresses— "Collets rebrass^s"— Wigs and false hair— Some results of the war in Italy- " Italian fashions—" Sollerets and slippers— Gorgets—Garters—Jean Marot writes against novelties— Anne of Brittany—Pins—Menot " the golden-tongued "—A Parisian in the time of Louis XII.—Coat 4 I'ltalienne—Manufacture of stuffs . 61 —— CONTENTS. vii CHAPTER IX. REIGN OF FRANCIS I. PAGE The court of Francis I. —A speech of Charles V.—The king's liberality— Order of the Cordeliere— Word-paintings of the fashions of the day, by Rabelais—Costumes of the seasons—Feather-fans— Sunshades—The "hoche-plis" or vertugadin— Mme. de Tressan saves her cousin's life— Satires and songs—Mdlle. de Lacepede " " Contenances "— Silk shoes with slashes— Head-dress called a " passe-filon Increase of love of dress—The bean- flower— Artistic head-dresses—T«ists of hair influence the called ratraprenades— Ferronieres— Coaches in Paris ; their on fashions ...........••• 7' CHAPTER X. REIGN OF HENRI II. Fashions under Henri H. — The ruff—A satirical print of the time— Catherine de for dress— Crimson—Who Medicis eats soup—The Italian taste— Regulations — shall wear silk?—Lines on velvet, by Ronsard— Rotonde "Collet monte" Spring-water— Style of gowns and head-dresses— Wired sleeves— Girdles— Caps, bonnets, and hoods—The " touret de nez"—The " coffin a roupies"— Shoes A quotation from Rabelais 8' CHAPTER XI. REIGN OF FRANCIS U. Description of The earliest queens of fashion— Mary Stuart's costumes ; her jewels— bodices and sleeves of that period— Crosses—The "loup" or small mask Coiffure "en raquette"—An anecdote concerning high heels— Regulations re- specting fashion— Remark of a lady of cur own day on distinctions in dress Exordium of the Edict of July I2, 1549— M.iximum of marriage portions— The first knitted silk stockings . Sg CHAPTER XII. REIGN OF CHARLES IX. The wars of religion— The fashions of Italy are brought across the Alps, and are welcomed in France— Effects of the expeditions into Italy— Articles from Venice and Genoa are very fashionable —A cloud of sugar-plums, and a shower of scents Effeminate style of dress— Charles IX. and his Edicts against extravagant display — Fashion rebels against sumptuary laws—Women of high rank, bourgeoises, widows, and spinsters— Wedding dresses— Observations of a Venetian ambassador —" Corps pique "—Drawers— Paint— Cosmetics— Breast mirrors, girdle mirrors — Court dresses—" Arcelets " 95 CHAPTER XIII. REIGN OF HENRI III. Opposition to the laws of King Henri III. on dress—The wife of President N . —How both sexes evaded the edicts— Gowns from Milan— Mixture of masculine and feminine fashions— Rage for perfumes— Recognition of rank is demanded Costumes worn at Cognac by Marguerite de Valois in presence of the Polish ambassadors, and her costume at Blois— Brantome's opinion— Pointed bodices, puffed-out sleeves, and "bourrelets"— Remarks on hair— Ridiculous dress of men— Poucet, the preacher— Satirical lines on Joyeuse— Witty remark of Pierre de I'Estoile— Starch used by Henri III.— Cushions 103 a 2 — viii CONTENTS. CHAPTER XIV. REIGNS OF HENRI IV. AND LOUIS XIII. PAGE Universal mourning on the death of the Guises ; intolerance of showy dress Vertugadins, "espoitrement," "corps espagnole" — Diversity of colours —The pearls, jewels, and diamonds belonging to Gabrie'lle d'Estrees and to the queen Dress of Marguerite de France—Low-cut bodices—Head-dresses of hair—Various " styles—Venetian slippers— Edicts of Louis XIL— Caricatures : Pompe fimebre de la Mode"—Words and fashions — Ribbons or "galants"—Dress of widows — — "Demi-ceint" girdles—Gloves of all sorts— Patches—Masks ; their use " Cache- laid"—The Frondeuses — Mme. de Longueville 113 CHAPTER XV. REIGN OF LOUIS XIV. Louis XIV. commands— Court lu.xury and pleasure; disguises—The Temple jewellery — Fashion and etiquette—Successive fashions— Royal edicts—The " Tombeau du sens commun"—Dress of La Valliere—Of Mme. de Montespan— Costume of a ladyof rank in 166S—The "echelles de Mme. de la Reynie " — "Transparencies" —Manufactures—Champagne, the hair-dresser—Female hair-dressers— " Hurlu- berlus" and Mme. de Sevigne— Moustaches for women; patches—Palatines- Slippers; high heels—Corsets; fans; sweet lemons— Dog-muffs— Hair dressed "k la Fontanges"—English style of dressing hair—"Esther"—Steinkerks " " " Cremonas — " Amadis " and Jansenist sleeves— Hair dressed "a I'effrontee Dresses of the Duchesse de Bourgogne—Mignardiscs 125 CHAPTER XVI. REIGN OF LOUIS XIV. (CONTINUED). Painted faces — Reply of a Turkish ambassador— Ineffectual criticism —Mme. Turcaret's " " pretintailles —Mme. Bonnet's law-suit — Brocaded materials —"Andriennes" "Criardes" — Return of "hoops" and paniers — A sailor's leap — Actresses' paniers, and the Greek head-dress— Mme. de Letorieres— D'Hele arrives frozen at the Cafe Procope— Waterproofs — Finishing touches— Fans and fan-makers in the seventeenth century—What Mme. de Stael-Holstcin thought of fans —Transition 143 CHAPTER XVII. REIGN OF LOUIS XV. The Regency—War is declared against paniers—The Oratorian Duguet— Opinion of the "Journal de Verdun"—Various publications against paniers—Lines by Voltaire—Whale-fisheiy company— I'aragraph from the "Journal de Barbier " Mmes. Jaucourt, De Seine, Delisle, Clairon,and Hus —Lines in praise of corsets New bodices— Coloured prints are forbidden—" Perses " or "Persiennes" Bagnolette— Adjuncts of dress : necklaces, ridicules, and poupottes— Contents of a patch-box—A sermon by Massillon — " Les mouches de Massillon," or — Massillon's patches " Filles de Mode, " or Fashion-girls—Some passing fashions— Powder — " remains in fashion " Monte-au-ciel — Simply made gowns—The first cachemire 151 CH.\PTER XVIII.