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The War and Fashion F a s h i o n , S o c i e t y , a n d t h e First World War i ii Fashion, Society, and the First World War International Perspectives E d i t e d b y M a u d e B a s s - K r u e g e r , H a y l e y E d w a r d s - D u j a r d i n , a n d S o p h i e K u r k d j i a n iii BLOOMSBURY VISUAL ARTS Bloomsbury Publishing Plc 50 Bedford Square, London, WC1B 3DP, UK 1385 Broadway, New York, NY 10018, USA 29 Earlsfort Terrace, Dublin 2, Ireland BLOOMSBURY, BLOOMSBURY VISUAL ARTS and the Diana logo are trademarks of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc First published in Great Britain 2021 Selection, editorial matter, Introduction © Maude Bass-Krueger, Hayley Edwards-Dujardin, and Sophie Kurkdjian, 2021 Individual chapters © their Authors, 2021 Maude Bass-Krueger, Hayley Edwards-Dujardin, and Sophie Kurkdjian have asserted their right under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act, 1988, to be identifi ed as Editors of this work. For legal purposes the Acknowledgments on p. xiii constitute an extension of this copyright page. Cover design by Adriana Brioso Cover image: Two women wearing a Poiret military coat, c.1915. Postcard from authors’ personal collection. This work is published subject to a Creative Commons Attribution Non-commercial No Derivatives Licence. You may share this work for non-commercial purposes only, provided you give attribution to the copyright holder and the publisher Bloomsbury Publishing Plc does not have any control over, or responsibility for, any third- party websites referred to or in this book. All internet addresses given in this book were correct at the time of going to press. The author and publisher regret any inconvenience caused if addresses have changed or sites have ceased to exist, but can accept no responsibility for any such changes. A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress. ISBN: HB: 978-1-3501-1986-4 ePDF: 978-1-3501-1987-1 eBook: 978-1-3501-1988-8 Typeset by Refi neCatch Limited, Bungay, Suffolk To fi nd out more about our authors and books visit www.bloomsbury.com and sign up for our newsletters . iv T o o u r c o l l e a g u e s , f r i e n d s , f a m i l i e s , a n d e v e r y o n e i n b e t w e e n . v vi C o n t e n t s List of illustrations x A c k n o w l e d g m e n t s xiii A note on translations xv Timeline xvi Introduction 1 Maude Bass-Krueger and Sophie Kurkdjian Part One Th e reconfi guration of the international couture industry 15 1 Wartime marketing of Parisian haute couture in the United States, 1914–17 17 Mary Lynn Stewart 2 Bou é S œ urs: “Compelled by the War” 29 Waleria Dorogova 3 “Gladdening the hearts of warriors”: Th e relationship between Lucile’s romantic fashions and morale in the First World War 46 Georgina Ripley 4 Die Kriegskrinoline : A feminine fashion between past and future 59 Birgit Haase 5 Fashion in Belgium during the First World War and the case of Norine Couture 72 Nele Bernheim vii viii Contents Part Two Th e materiality of wartime fashion and textile industries 89 6 Dressed to quill: Th e origin and signifi cance of the feathered showgirl in First World War Paris 91 Emily Brayshaw 7 Between fashion and folk: Dress practices in Alsace during the First World War 108 Sara Hume 8 Th e lace industry in France and Belgium during the First World War 122 Marguerite Coppens 9 Industrial and homemade clothing production in the Netherlands: A neutral country during the First World War 134 Marta Karg ó l 10 Wartime fabrics in the historical archives of Como weavers and in the collections of the Fondazione Antonio Ratti 151 Margherita Rosina Part Th ree Problematic uniforms: Male and female experiences and secondhand trade networks 163 11 “Breeched, booted, and cropped”: A dress historical analysis of the uniform worn by members of Britain’s Women’s Land Army, 1917–19 165 Amy de la Haye 12 Th e French home front in 1914–18: An investigation into female workwear 182 J é r é mie Brucker 13 Rushing to suit up: French aviation’s adjustment to wartime uniforms, 1914–16 197 Guillaume de Syon 14 Th e spoils of war: Use and transformations of secondhand uniforms during the First World War in France 208 Manuel Charpy Contents ix Part Four Fashion in print: Questions of national fashion and gender 229 15 Th e gentleman turned “enemy”: Men’s fashion in the Hungarian press, 1914–18 231 Zsolt M é sz á ros 16 Th e politics of fashion: German fashion writings in times of war 246 Burcu Dogramaci 17 Th e Italian fashion magazine Margherita : Th e war, women, and the call for a “Moda Italiana,” 1914–18 260 Enrica Morini 18 Le Flambeau ’s fashion discourse during the First World War: Towards a retrograde femininity? 272 Nigel Lezama 19 Is beauty useless? Fashion, gender, and British wartime society in Punch Magazine, 1915 288 Andrea Kollnitz Notes on contributors 309 Index 315 I l l u s t r a t i o n s 0.1 “Expansion of the War—Dates on which Declarations of War were made.” xxii 0.2 Two women and a French soldier wearing a Poiret military coat, c . 1915. 6 2.1 Baronne Jeanne d’Etreillis and Sylvie Montegut with their children Mounette and Philippe in the park of Ch â teau de Maison Rouge, Gagny, summer 1917. c . 1915. 30 2.2 “Robe Corbeau,” taff eta and velvet dress with “new draped skirt and waistcoat eff ect.” 33 2.3 “Ma Patrie,” Summer Collection, 1916, pencil, ink, and watercolor sketch for presentation purposes, stamped “Bou é S œ urs Ltd., 9, Rue de la Paix, Paris.” 36 2.4 Mannequin wearing the “Manette” model, winter 1919. 38 2.5 Witold Gordon, Bou é S œ urs advertisement, Newport Casino program, 1917. 39 3.1 “Carresaute,” Lucile evening dress. Blue silk chiff on, lace, and metallic embroidery, London, 1905. 48 3.2 Woman’s evening dress of shot silk, with gold embroidered net and passementerie, by Lucile Ltd, Paris, France, 1918 54 3.3 Page from Lucile sample album book of fashion designs of women’s clothes, Great Britain, 1905. 54 4.1 Th omas Th eodor Heine, caricature, “Die entt ä uschte Pariserin” (Th e disappointed Parisian), Simplicissimus , 1916. 60 4.2 Annie Offt erdinger, Modebild II (Two dancing women), 1916. Lithograph published in Zeit-Echo: Kriegstagebuch der K ü nstler , 1916. 63 5.1 Elvira De Baets sent photographs of herself in fashionable outfi ts to her fi anc é , kept prisoner in Soltau, Germany, winter 1914. 75 5.2 Norine Deschryver and Paul-Gustave Van Hecke in their workshop, c . 1919. 76 5.3 Th e Belgian fashion magazine Modes É l é gantes , October 1, 1915. 79 5.4 Ren é Magritte, poster design for Norine, 1926. 81 6.1 Quelques fantasies typiques de la mode d’hiver 1913 (Some trimmings typical of winter 1913 fashions), 1914. 98 6.2 Leonetto Cappiello, “ Pupazzi var Cappiello ,” Fantasio, 1918. 101 x Illustrations xi 7.1 Henri Bacher, 22 Novembre 1918: L’Entr é e glorieuse des troupes Fran ç aises à Strasbourg , 1919. 109 7.2 Hansi, Pages d’Album , c . 1915. 114 7.3 Leven and Lemonier, Alsace interpr é t é par Mme R é jane, 1916. 116 8.1 Propaganda photo for Amies de la dentelle , c . 1915. Postcard. 127 8.2 War Lace depicting the rooster, symbol of France. Volant in Malines lace. 128 8.3 War Lace depicting allies’ banners. Needle- lace fan sheet. Dated and signed, 1915, Fernand Khnopff . 128 8.4 Paul Mussche, Comit é de la dentelle, 1915, pl. 2. Catalogue of lace pieces off ered for sale. 129 9.1 Fashion illustration. Gracieuse , no. 7: 16/5 (1916). 139 9.2 Fashion illustration. Gracieuse , no. 8: 16/3 (1915). 140 9.3 Knitting for soldiers. Gracieuse , no. 19: 13 (1914). 142 9.4 Knitting for soldiers. Gracieuse , no. 20: 9 (1917). 143 10.1 Lyon, Boisson & Fesquet, Sample of Taff etas ray é , 1915. 156 10.2 Lyon, Boisson & Fesquet, Sample of Poult de soie ray é , 1914. 157 10.3 Lyon (?), Fragment of ribbon, Gros de Tour broch é , 1914. 159 11.1 Photographic portrait of member of Britain’s Women’s Land Army, postcard, 1917–19. 168 11.2 Satirical postcard, 1917–19. 171 11.3 Photographic postcard. A group of dairy workers (they wear white overalls). 176 11.4 Studio portrait of a uniformed member of Britain’s Women’s Land Army, 1917–19. Orphan photograph. 177 12.1 Women replacing male caf é waiters, 1914–18. 186 12.2 War- themed calendar, 1st year, August 1914–July 1915. 187 12.3 “La Fran ç oise,” trademark, May 16, 1916. 190 12.4 Drawing by Jean Villemot, “Les Usines de guerre.” 192 13.1 Th e mix of uniforms of this military class at the Avord training airfi eld refl ects the variety of arms that contributed fl yers to the nascent French Air Force.
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