DOCSLIB.ORG

The War and Fashion

Total Page：16

File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb

Download full-text PDF Read full-text

Load more

F a s h i o n , S o c i e t y , a n d t h e First World War i ii Fashion, Society, and the First World War International Perspectives E d i t e d b y M a u d e B a s s - K r u e g e r , H a y l e y E d w a r d s - D u j a r d i n , a n d S o p h i e K u r k d j i a n iii BLOOMSBURY VISUAL ARTS Bloomsbury Publishing Plc 50 Bedford Square, London, WC1B 3DP, UK 1385 Broadway, New York, NY 10018, USA 29 Earlsfort Terrace, Dublin 2, Ireland BLOOMSBURY, BLOOMSBURY VISUAL ARTS and the Diana logo are trademarks of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc First published in Great Britain 2021 Selection, editorial matter, Introduction © Maude Bass-Krueger, Hayley Edwards-Dujardin, and Sophie Kurkdjian, 2021 Individual chapters © their Authors, 2021 Maude Bass-Krueger, Hayley Edwards-Dujardin, and Sophie Kurkdjian have asserted their right under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act, 1988, to be identifi ed as Editors of this work. For legal purposes the Acknowledgments on p. xiii constitute an extension of this copyright page. Cover design by Adriana Brioso Cover image: Two women wearing a Poiret military coat, c.1915. Postcard from authors’ personal collection. This work is published subject to a Creative Commons Attribution Non-commercial No Derivatives Licence. You may share this work for non-commercial purposes only, provided you give attribution to the copyright holder and the publisher Bloomsbury Publishing Plc does not have any control over, or responsibility for, any third- party websites referred to or in this book. All internet addresses given in this book were correct at the time of going to press. The author and publisher regret any inconvenience caused if addresses have changed or sites have ceased to exist, but can accept no responsibility for any such changes. A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress. ISBN: HB: 978-1-3501-1986-4 ePDF: 978-1-3501-1987-1 eBook: 978-1-3501-1988-8 Typeset by Refi neCatch Limited, Bungay, Suffolk To fi nd out more about our authors and books visit www.bloomsbury.com and sign up for our newsletters . iv T o o u r c o l l e a g u e s , f r i e n d s , f a m i l i e s , a n d e v e r y o n e i n b e t w e e n . v vi C o n t e n t s List of illustrations x A c k n o w l e d g m e n t s xiii A note on translations xv Timeline xvi Introduction 1 Maude Bass-Krueger and Sophie Kurkdjian Part One Th e reconfi guration of the international couture industry 15 1 Wartime marketing of Parisian haute couture in the United States, 1914–17 17 Mary Lynn Stewart 2 Bou é S œ urs: “Compelled by the War” 29 Waleria Dorogova 3 “Gladdening the hearts of warriors”: Th e relationship between Lucile’s romantic fashions and morale in the First World War 46 Georgina Ripley 4 Die Kriegskrinoline : A feminine fashion between past and future 59 Birgit Haase 5 Fashion in Belgium during the First World War and the case of Norine Couture 72 Nele Bernheim vii viii Contents Part Two Th e materiality of wartime fashion and textile industries 89 6 Dressed to quill: Th e origin and signifi cance of the feathered showgirl in First World War Paris 91 Emily Brayshaw 7 Between fashion and folk: Dress practices in Alsace during the First World War 108 Sara Hume 8 Th e lace industry in France and Belgium during the First World War 122 Marguerite Coppens 9 Industrial and homemade clothing production in the Netherlands: A neutral country during the First World War 134 Marta Karg ó l 10 Wartime fabrics in the historical archives of Como weavers and in the collections of the Fondazione Antonio Ratti 151 Margherita Rosina Part Th ree Problematic uniforms: Male and female experiences and secondhand trade networks 163 11 “Breeched, booted, and cropped”: A dress historical analysis of the uniform worn by members of Britain’s Women’s Land Army, 1917–19 165 Amy de la Haye 12 Th e French home front in 1914–18: An investigation into female workwear 182 J é r é mie Brucker 13 Rushing to suit up: French aviation’s adjustment to wartime uniforms, 1914–16 197 Guillaume de Syon 14 Th e spoils of war: Use and transformations of secondhand uniforms during the First World War in France 208 Manuel Charpy Contents ix Part Four Fashion in print: Questions of national fashion and gender 229 15 Th e gentleman turned “enemy”: Men’s fashion in the Hungarian press, 1914–18 231 Zsolt M é sz á ros 16 Th e politics of fashion: German fashion writings in times of war 246 Burcu Dogramaci 17 Th e Italian fashion magazine Margherita : Th e war, women, and the call for a “Moda Italiana,” 1914–18 260 Enrica Morini 18 Le Flambeau ’s fashion discourse during the First World War: Towards a retrograde femininity? 272 Nigel Lezama 19 Is beauty useless? Fashion, gender, and British wartime society in Punch Magazine, 1915 288 Andrea Kollnitz Notes on contributors 309 Index 315 I l l u s t r a t i o n s 0.1 “Expansion of the War—Dates on which Declarations of War were made.” xxii 0.2 Two women and a French soldier wearing a Poiret military coat, c . 1915. 6 2.1 Baronne Jeanne d’Etreillis and Sylvie Montegut with their children Mounette and Philippe in the park of Ch â teau de Maison Rouge, Gagny, summer 1917. c . 1915. 30 2.2 “Robe Corbeau,” taff eta and velvet dress with “new draped skirt and waistcoat eff ect.” 33 2.3 “Ma Patrie,” Summer Collection, 1916, pencil, ink, and watercolor sketch for presentation purposes, stamped “Bou é S œ urs Ltd., 9, Rue de la Paix, Paris.” 36 2.4 Mannequin wearing the “Manette” model, winter 1919. 38 2.5 Witold Gordon, Bou é S œ urs advertisement, Newport Casino program, 1917. 39 3.1 “Carresaute,” Lucile evening dress. Blue silk chiff on, lace, and metallic embroidery, London, 1905. 48 3.2 Woman’s evening dress of shot silk, with gold embroidered net and passementerie, by Lucile Ltd, Paris, France, 1918 54 3.3 Page from Lucile sample album book of fashion designs of women’s clothes, Great Britain, 1905. 54 4.1 Th omas Th eodor Heine, caricature, “Die entt ä uschte Pariserin” (Th e disappointed Parisian), Simplicissimus , 1916. 60 4.2 Annie Offt erdinger, Modebild II (Two dancing women), 1916. Lithograph published in Zeit-Echo: Kriegstagebuch der K ü nstler , 1916. 63 5.1 Elvira De Baets sent photographs of herself in fashionable outfi ts to her fi anc é , kept prisoner in Soltau, Germany, winter 1914. 75 5.2 Norine Deschryver and Paul-Gustave Van Hecke in their workshop, c . 1919. 76 5.3 Th e Belgian fashion magazine Modes É l é gantes , October 1, 1915. 79 5.4 Ren é Magritte, poster design for Norine, 1926. 81 6.1 Quelques fantasies typiques de la mode d’hiver 1913 (Some trimmings typical of winter 1913 fashions), 1914. 98 6.2 Leonetto Cappiello, “ Pupazzi var Cappiello ,” Fantasio, 1918. 101 x Illustrations xi 7.1 Henri Bacher, 22 Novembre 1918: L’Entr é e glorieuse des troupes Fran ç aises à Strasbourg , 1919. 109 7.2 Hansi, Pages d’Album , c . 1915. 114 7.3 Leven and Lemonier, Alsace interpr é t é par Mme R é jane, 1916. 116 8.1 Propaganda photo for Amies de la dentelle , c . 1915. Postcard. 127 8.2 War Lace depicting the rooster, symbol of France. Volant in Malines lace. 128 8.3 War Lace depicting allies’ banners. Needle- lace fan sheet. Dated and signed, 1915, Fernand Khnopff . 128 8.4 Paul Mussche, Comit é de la dentelle, 1915, pl. 2. Catalogue of lace pieces off ered for sale. 129 9.1 Fashion illustration. Gracieuse , no. 7: 16/5 (1916). 139 9.2 Fashion illustration. Gracieuse , no. 8: 16/3 (1915). 140 9.3 Knitting for soldiers. Gracieuse , no. 19: 13 (1914). 142 9.4 Knitting for soldiers. Gracieuse , no. 20: 9 (1917). 143 10.1 Lyon, Boisson & Fesquet, Sample of Taff etas ray é , 1915. 156 10.2 Lyon, Boisson & Fesquet, Sample of Poult de soie ray é , 1914. 157 10.3 Lyon (?), Fragment of ribbon, Gros de Tour broch é , 1914. 159 11.1 Photographic portrait of member of Britain’s Women’s Land Army, postcard, 1917–19. 168 11.2 Satirical postcard, 1917–19. 171 11.3 Photographic postcard. A group of dairy workers (they wear white overalls). 176 11.4 Studio portrait of a uniformed member of Britain’s Women’s Land Army, 1917–19. Orphan photograph. 177 12.1 Women replacing male caf é waiters, 1914–18. 186 12.2 War- themed calendar, 1st year, August 1914–July 1915. 187 12.3 “La Fran ç oise,” trademark, May 16, 1916. 190 12.4 Drawing by Jean Villemot, “Les Usines de guerre.” 192 13.1 Th e mix of uniforms of this military class at the Avord training airfi eld refl ects the variety of arms that contributed fl yers to the nascent French Air Force.
Recommended publications
  • The Textiles of the Han Dynasty & Their Relationship with Society

    The Textiles of the Han Dynasty & Their Relationship with Society

    The Textiles of the Han Dynasty & Their Relationship with Society Heather Langford Theses submitted for the degree of Master of Arts Faculty of Humanities and Social Sciences Centre of Asian Studies University of Adelaide May 2009 ii Dissertation submitted in partial fulfilment of the research requirements for the degree of Master of Arts Centre of Asian Studies School of Humanities and Social Sciences Adelaide University 2009 iii Table of Contents 1. Introduction.........................................................................................1 1.1. Literature Review..............................................................................13 1.2. Chapter summary ..............................................................................17 1.3. Conclusion ........................................................................................19 2. Background .......................................................................................20 2.1. Pre Han History.................................................................................20 2.2. Qin Dynasty ......................................................................................24 2.3. The Han Dynasty...............................................................................25 2.3.1. Trade with the West............................................................................. 30 2.4. Conclusion ........................................................................................32 3. Textiles and Technology....................................................................33
  • Fitzgerald in the Late 1910S: War and Women Richard M

    Fitzgerald in the Late 1910S: War and Women Richard M

    View metadata, citation and similar papers at core.ac.uk brought to you by CORE provided by Duquesne University: Digital Commons Duquesne University Duquesne Scholarship Collection Electronic Theses and Dissertations 2009 Fitzgerald in the Late 1910s: War and Women Richard M. Clark Follow this and additional works at: https://dsc.duq.edu/etd Recommended Citation Clark, R. (2009). Fitzgerald in the Late 1910s: War and Women (Doctoral dissertation, Duquesne University). Retrieved from https://dsc.duq.edu/etd/416 This Immediate Access is brought to you for free and open access by Duquesne Scholarship Collection. It has been accepted for inclusion in Electronic Theses and Dissertations by an authorized administrator of Duquesne Scholarship Collection. For more information, please contact [email protected]. FITZGERALD IN THE LATE 1910s: WAR AND WOMEN A Dissertation Submitted to the McAnulty College and Graduate School Duquesne University In partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy By Richard M. Clark August 2009 Copyright by Richard M. Clark 2009 FITZGERALD IN THE LATE 1910s: WAR AND WOMEN By Richard M. Clark Approved July 21, 2009 ________________________________ ________________________________ Linda Kinnahan, Ph.D. Greg Barnhisel, Ph.D. Professor of English Assistant Professor of English (Dissertation Director) (2nd Reader) ________________________________ ________________________________ Frederick Newberry, Ph.D. Magali Cornier Michael, Ph.D. Professor of English Professor of English (1st Reader) (Chair, Department of English) ________________________________ Christopher M. Duncan, Ph.D. Dean, McAnulty College and Graduate School of Liberal Arts iii ABSTRACT FITZGERALD IN THE LATE 1910s: WAR AND WOMEN By Richard M. Clark August 2009 Dissertation supervised by Professor Linda Kinnahan This dissertation analyzes historical and cultural factors that influenced F.
  • World War I Concept Learning Outline Objectives

    World War I Concept Learning Outline Objectives

    AP European History: Period 4.1 Teacher’s Edition World War I Concept Learning Outline Objectives I. Long-term causes of World War I 4.1.I.A INT-9 A. Rival alliances: Triple Alliance vs. Triple Entente SP-6/17/18 1. 1871: The balance of power of Europe was upset by the decisive Prussian victory in the Franco-Prussian War and the creation of the German Empire. a. Bismarck thereafter feared French revenge and negotiated treaties to isolate France. b. Bismarck also feared Russia, especially after the Congress of Berlin in 1878 when Russia blamed Germany for not gaining territory in the Balkans. 2. In 1879, the Dual Alliance emerged: Germany and Austria a. Bismarck sought to thwart Russian expansion. b. The Dual Alliance was based on German support for Austria in its struggle with Russia over expansion in the Balkans. c. This became a major feature of European diplomacy until the end of World War I. 3. Triple Alliance, 1881: Italy joined Germany and Austria Italy sought support for its imperialistic ambitions in the Mediterranean and Africa. 4. Russian-German Reinsurance Treaty, 1887 a. It promised the neutrality of both Germany and Russia if either country went to war with another country. b. Kaiser Wilhelm II refused to renew the reinsurance treaty after removing Bismarck in 1890. This can be seen as a huge diplomatic blunder; Russia wanted to renew it but now had no assurances it was safe from a German invasion. France courted Russia; the two became allies. Germany, now out of necessity, developed closer ties to Austria.
  • Routledge Dictionary of Cultural References in Modern French

    Routledge Dictionary of Cultural References in Modern French

    About the Table of Contents of this eBook. The Table of Contents in this eBook may be off by 1 digit. To correctly navigate chapters, use the bookmark links in the bookmarks panel. The Routledge Dictionary of Cultural References in Modern French The Routledge Dictionary of Cultural References in Modern French reveals the hidden cultural dimension of contemporary French, as used in the press, going beyond the limited and purely lexical approach of traditional bilingual dictionaries. Even foreign learners of French who possess a good level of French often have difficulty in fully understanding French articles, not because of any linguistic shortcomings on their part but because of their inadequate knowledge of the cultural references. This cultural dictionary of French provides the reader with clear and concise expla- nations of the crucial cultural dimension behind the most frequently used words and phrases found in the contemporary French press. This vital background information, gathered here in this innovative and entertaining dictionary, will allow readers to go beyond a superficial understanding of the French press and the French language in general, to see the hidden yet implied cultural significance that is so transparent to the native speaker. Key features: a broad range of cultural references from the historical and literary to the popular and classical, with an in-depth analysis of punning mechanisms. over 3,000 cultural references explained a three-level indicator of frequency over 600 questions to test knowledge before and after reading. The Routledge Dictionary of Cultural References in Modern French is the ideal refer- ence for all undergraduate and postgraduate students of French seeking to enhance their understanding of the French language.
  • Great Britain. Foreign Office. Wellington House Publications

    Great Britain. Foreign Office. Wellington House Publications

    http://oac.cdlib.org/findaid/ark:/13030/c86m3dcm No online items Inventory of the Great Britain. Foreign Office. Wellington House publications Finding aid prepared by Trevor Wood Hoover Institution Library and Archives © 2008, 2014 434 Galvez Mall Stanford University Stanford, CA 94305-6003 [email protected] URL: http://www.hoover.org/library-and-archives Inventory of the Great Britain. XX230 1 Foreign Office. Wellington House publications Title: Great Britain. Foreign Office. Wellington House publications Date (inclusive): 1914-1918 Collection Number: XX230 Contributing Institution: Hoover Institution Library and Archives Language of Material: English Physical Description: 13 manuscript boxes, 5 card file boxes, 1 cubic foot box(6.2 Linear Feet) Abstract: Books, pamphlets, and miscellany, relating to World War I and British participation in it. Card file drawers at the Hoover Institution Library & Archives describe this collection. Hoover Institution Library & Archives Access The collection is open for research; materials must be requested at least two business days in advance of intended use. Publication Rights For copyright status, please contact the Hoover Institution Library & Archives. Acquisition Information Acquired by the Hoover Institution Library & Archives Preferred Citation [Identification of item], Great Britain. Foreign Office. Wellington House publications, [Box no., Folder no. or title], Hoover Institution Library & Archives. Historical Note Propaganda section of the British Foreign Office. Scope and Content of Collection Books, pamphlets, and miscellany, relating to World War I and British participation in it. Subjects and Indexing Terms World War, 1914-1918 -- Propaganda Propaganda, British World War, 1914-1918 -- Great Britain box 1 "The Achievements of the Zeppelins." By a Swede.
  • A Life Transformed: the 1910S

    A Life Transformed: the 1910S

    TWO A Life Transformed: The 1910s Not the least significant element of modem political history is contained in the constant growth of individual personality accompanied by the limitation of the State.! Georg Jellinek, 1892 FIRST TRIP TO CHINA AND THE JAPANESE COMMUNITY IN PEKING When Nakae grew bored with working for the South Manchurian Rail­ way Company, once again his benefactors came to his rescue and found something else for him. Around October 1914, his mother's former boarder, Ts'ao Ju-lin, managed to land him an offer. Ts'ao summoned Nakae to Peking with a one-year contract to work as secretary to Ariga Nagao (1860-1921). Ariga was a professor of international law at Waseda University and had been a friend of Ushikichi's father, although thei; political views diverged sharply. Apparently, years before, Mrs. Nakae out of concern for her wayward son's future had prevailed on the ever grateful Ts'ao to intercede on behalf of Ushikichi if necessary. Nakae received the handsome monthly salary of one hundred yuan for responsibilities neither especially demanding nor explicit. One suspects that he held this sinecure, which might otherwise not have existed, because of his mother's earlier appeal. We know, however, that Nakae spent a great deal of his time in China that year leading what he himself would later refer to as the life of a "profligate villain" (hi5ti5 burai).2 In 1914 Ariga accepted an invitation to serve as an advisor to the gov- "'-------------------- -- 28 A Life Transformed ernment of Yuan Shih-k'ai (1859-1916), which had taken power several years earlier in the young Republic of China.
  • The Morgue File 2010

    The Morgue File 2010

    the morgue file 2010 DONE BY: ASSIL DIAB 1850 1900 1850 to 1900 was known as the Victorian Era. Early 1850 bodices had a Basque opening over a che- misette, the bodice continued to be very close fitting, the waist sharp and the shoulder less slanted, during the 1850s to 1866. During the 1850s the dresses were cut without a waist seam and during the 1860s the round waist was raised to some extent. The decade of the 1870s is one of the most intricate era of women’s fashion. The style of the early 1870s relied on the renewal of the polonaise, strained on the back, gath- ered and puffed up into an detailed arrangement at the rear, above a sustaining bustle, to somewhat broaden at the wrist. The underskirt, trimmed with pleated fragments, inserting ribbon bands. An abundance of puffs, borders, rib- bons, drapes, and an outlandish mixture of fabric and colors besieged the past proposal for minimalism and looseness. women’s daywear Victorian women received their first corset at the age of 3. A typical Victorian Silhouette consisted of a two piece dress with bodice & skirt, a high neckline, armholes cut under high arm, full sleeves, small waist (17 inch waist), full skirt with petticoats and crinoline, and a floor length skirt. 1894/1896 Walking Suit the essential “tailor suit” for the active and energetic Victorian woman, The jacket and bodice are one piece, but provide the look of two separate pieces. 1859 zouave jacket Zouave jacket is a collarless, waist length braid trimmed bolero style jacket with three quarter length sleeves.
  • Jazz and the Cultural Transformation of America in the 1920S

    Jazz and the Cultural Transformation of America in the 1920S

    Louisiana State University LSU Digital Commons LSU Doctoral Dissertations Graduate School 2003 Jazz and the cultural transformation of America in the 1920s Courtney Patterson Carney Louisiana State University and Agricultural and Mechanical College, [email protected] Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.lsu.edu/gradschool_dissertations Part of the History Commons Recommended Citation Carney, Courtney Patterson, "Jazz and the cultural transformation of America in the 1920s" (2003). LSU Doctoral Dissertations. 176. https://digitalcommons.lsu.edu/gradschool_dissertations/176 This Dissertation is brought to you for free and open access by the Graduate School at LSU Digital Commons. It has been accepted for inclusion in LSU Doctoral Dissertations by an authorized graduate school editor of LSU Digital Commons. For more information, please [email protected]. JAZZ AND THE CULTURAL TRANSFORMATION OF AMERICA IN THE 1920S A Dissertation Submitted to the Graduate Faculty of the Louisiana State University and Agricultural and Mechanical College in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in The Department of History by Courtney Patterson Carney B.A., Baylor University, 1996 M.A., Louisiana State University, 1998 December 2003 For Big ii ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS The real truth about it is no one gets it right The real truth about it is we’re all supposed to try1 Over the course of the last few years I have been in contact with a long list of people, many of whom have had some impact on this dissertation. At the University of Chicago, Deborah Gillaspie and Ray Gadke helped immensely by guiding me through the Chicago Jazz Archive.
  • World War I Timeline C

    World War I Timeline C

    6.2.1 World War I Timeline c June 28, 1914 Austrian Archduke Franz Ferdinand and his wife Sophia are killed by Serbian nationalists. July 26, 1914 Austria declares war on Serbia. Russia, an ally of Serbia, prepares to enter the war. July 29, 1914 Austria invades Serbia. August 1, 1914 Germany declares war on Russia. August 3, 1914 Germany declares war on France. August 4, 1914 German army invades neutral Belgium on its way to attack France. Great Britain declares war on Germany. As a colony of Britain, Canada is now at war. Prime Minister Robert Borden calls for a supreme national effort to support Britain, and offers assistance. Canadians rush to enlist in the military. August 6, 1914 Austria declares war on Russia. August 12, 1914 France and Britain declare war on Austria. October 1, 1914 The first Canadian troops leave to be trained in Britain. October – November 1914 First Battle of Ypres, France. Germany fails to reach the English Channel. 1914 – 1917 The two huge armies are deadlocked along a 600-mile front of Deadlock and growing trenches in Belgium and France. For four years, there is little change. death tolls Attack after attack fails to cross enemy lines, and the toll in human lives grows rapidly. Both sides seek help from other allies. By 1917, every continent and all the oceans of the world are involved in this war. February 1915 The first Canadian soldiers land in France to fight alongside British troops. April - May 1915 The Second Battle of Ypres. Germans use poison gas and break a hole through the long line of Allied trenches.
  • Gallipoli Campaign

    Gallipoli Campaign

    tHe GaLlIpOlI CaMpAiGn The Gallipoli Campaign was an attack on the Gallipoli peninsula during World War I, between 25 April 1915 and 9 January 1916. The Gallipoli peninsula was an important tactical position during World War I. The British War Council suggested that Germany could be defeated by attacks on her allies, Austria, Hungary and Turkey. The Allied forces of the British Empire (including Australia and New Zealand) aimed to force a passage through the Dardanelles Strait and capture the Turkish capital, Constantinople. At dawn on 25 April 1915, Anzac assault troops landed north of Gaba Tepe, at what became known as Anzac Cove, while the British forces landed at Cape Helles on the Gallipoli Peninsula. The campaign was a brave but costly failure. By December 1915 plans were drawn up to evacuate the entire force from Gallipoli. On 19 and 20 December, the evacuation of over 142,000 men from Anzac Cove commenced and was completed three weeks later with minimal casualties. In total, the whole Gallipoli campaign caused 26,111 Australian casualties, including 8,141 deaths. Since 1916 the anniversary of the landings on 25 April has been commemorated as Anzac Day, becoming one of the most important national celebrations in Australia and New Zealand. tHe GaLlIpOlI CaMpAiGn The Gallipoli Campaign was an attack on the Gallipoli peninsula during World War I, between 25 April 1915 and 9 January 1916. The Gallipoli peninsula was an important tactical position during World War I. The British War Council suggested that Germany could be defeated by attacks on her allies, Austria, Hungary and Turkey.
  • Revolutionary Syndicalist Opposition to the First World War: A

    Revolutionary Syndicalist Opposition to the First World War: A

    Re-evaluating syndicalist opposition to the First World War Darlington, RR http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/0023656X.2012.731834 Title Re-evaluating syndicalist opposition to the First World War Authors Darlington, RR Type Article URL This version is available at: http://usir.salford.ac.uk/id/eprint/19226/ Published Date 2012 USIR is a digital collection of the research output of the University of Salford. Where copyright permits, full text material held in the repository is made freely available online and can be read, downloaded and copied for non-commercial private study or research purposes. Please check the manuscript for any further copyright restrictions. For more information, including our policy and submission procedure, please contact the Repository Team at: [email protected]. Re-evaluating Syndicalist Opposition to the First World War Abstract It has been argued that support for the First World War by the important French syndicalist organisation, the Confédération Générale du Travail (CGT) has tended to obscure the fact that other national syndicalist organisations remained faithful to their professed workers’ internationalism: on this basis syndicalists beyond France, more than any other ideological persuasion within the organised trade union movement in immediate pre-war and wartime Europe, can be seen to have constituted an authentic movement of opposition to the war in their refusal to subordinate class interests to those of the state, to endorse policies of ‘defencism’ of the ‘national interest’ and to abandon the rhetoric of class conflict. This article, which attempts to contribute to a much neglected comparative historiography of the international syndicalist movement, re-evaluates the syndicalist response across a broad geographical field of canvas (embracing France, Italy, Spain, Ireland, Britain and America) to reveal a rather more nuanced, ambiguous and uneven picture.
  • Baedeker's Handbook(S) for Travellers

    Baedeker's Handbook(S) for Travellers

    Baedeker's handbook(s) for Travellers Baedeker's handbook(s) for Travellers A bibliography of English editions published prior to World War 11 Greenwood Press Westport. Connecticut •London. England Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data Main entry under title: Baedeker's handbook(s) for travellers. 1. Baedeker, Karl, firm--Bibliography. 2. Voyages and travels--Guide-books--Bibliography. I. Baedeker, Karl, firm. Z6016.T7B43 [G150] 016.910'2'02 75-12928 ISBN 0-8371-8209-3 Copyright ©by Williamhouse-Regency, Inc. 1975 All rights reserved. No portion of this book may be reproduced by any process or technique without expressed written consent of the publisher. Library of Congress catalog card number 75-12928 ISBN 0-8371-8209-3 First published in 1975 Second printing 1976 Greenwood Press, Inc., 51 Riverside Avenue, Westport, Connecticut 06880 Manufactured in the United States of America Preface Libraries have long recognized the value of maintaining col- lections of rare and out-of-print guidebooks. Not only are they of considerable value to geographers, anthropologists, and historians, but they are now also being used by demog- raphers and economists, and students of folk culture. The Baedeker Handbook(s) for Travellers series began pub- lication in 1828 and has been used by generations of Euro- pean and American travelers. A Baedeker Handbook usually contains elaborate information on buildings, streets, and communities. Many of these have changed beyond recogni- tion or have been destroyed entirely. Considerable attention is also given to regional and local dress, as well as customs, traditions, and holidays. The following bibliography describes the English-language guides published by Baedeker prior to World War II.