the morgue file 2010 DONE BY: ASSIL DIAB 1850 1900 1850 to 1900 was known as the Victorian Era. Early 1850 bodices had a Basque opening over a che- misette, the bodice continued to be very close fitting, the waist sharp and the shoulder less slanted, during the 1850s to 1866. During the 1850s the dresses were cut without a waist seam and during the 1860s the round waist was raised to some extent. The decade of the 1870s is one of the most intricate era of women’s fashion. The style of the early 1870s relied on the renewal of the polonaise, strained on the back, gath- ered and puffed up into an detailed arrangement at the rear, above a sustaining bustle, to somewhat broaden at the wrist. The underskirt, trimmed with pleated fragments, inserting ribbon bands. An abundance of puffs, borders, rib- bons, drapes, and an outlandish mixture of fabric and colors besieged the past proposal for minimalism and looseness. women’s daywear Victorian women received their first corset at the age of 3. A typical Victorian Silhouette consisted of a two piece dress with bodice & skirt, a high neckline, armholes cut under high arm, full sleeves, small waist (17 inch waist), full skirt with petticoats and crinoline, and a floor length skirt. 1894/1896 Walking Suit the essential “tailor suit” for the active and energetic Victorian woman, The jacket and bodice are one piece, but provide the look of two separate pieces. 1859 zouave jacket Zouave jacket is a collarless, waist length braid trimmed bolero style jacket with three quarter length sleeves. It is name after the zouaves, a regiment of French soldiers attached to the hussars, who in the 1830s adopted an arab-style costume which incorporated such a jacket. Between the 1860s and the 1900s, women wore zouave style jackets for indoor and outdoor wear. women’s daywear In the late 1850s the skirt altered form from a dome to a bell shape. The 1860s skirt was cut to flow and extend out at the back, the front hanging fairly straight over a crinoline frame adjusted to give this silhouette. Heavier fabrics were used in the 1860s and ornaments were restricted to the lower part of the skirt. Skirts were elongated, often straggling, and early on as 1857 they may behaggard up in em- bellishes and lifted up for handiness when walking in the country or on the beach, and this led to an arrangement of cords and rings which enabled the skirt to be. 1861 Garibaldi Blouse A Garibaldi sleeve of thin fabric was full and congregated into a posse at the wrist, worn for morning or afternoon occasions. During the 1860s, the Garibaldi blouse was short worn as outer wear and for 1880’s Polonaise day in place of a bodice, made of scarlet cashmere with military braiding A Polonaise is a skirt that and scarlet merino fitted with black plait; covers the petticoat, but it full or plain sleeves and typically hang is draped to show parts of over the skirt, restrained by a belt. the petticoat. women’s evening- wear Makeup - Victorian women used magnesium talc (acid in powder form) for makeup. The paler a lady was, the better, because being dark skinned (tanned) meant that you spend too much time in the sun, doing peasant work. Victorian women pinch their cheeks for blush and bite their lips repeatedly for color. Decollete is a low neckline bodice of a blouse or dress. The Victorian version was cut low on the shoulders. The décolleté neckline is a traditional component of evening dresses and ball gowns. The shawl became a necessary attribute to evening dresses, due to the decollete style. Decollete Style This kind of disclosure was restricted to the middle and upper classes. Leg of mutton sleeve is a sleeve that is tight fitting from wrist to elbow then balloons out from elbow to shoulder where it is pleated into the bodice of a dress or blouse. A popular sleeve style in the late 19th century. Wide “leg ‘o mutton” sleeves {1890} accessories Bustle is a pad of cork, down or other type of stuffing worn under a skirt, which is attached to the back below waist to hold out skirts in back. During the half century, bonnets and hats, apart were extravagantly trimmed, and hair was always ornamented with flowers, jewels or feath- VICTORIAN BUSTLE ers for evening. Throughout the 1850s bon- (1870-1890). nets became thinner and placed further back on the head, emergent in the early 1860s into the spoon bon- net, which had a slender brim, rising perpendicularly exceeding the forehead in a spoon-shaped curve and lean- ing loosely behind to a small circlet. 1850’s FLOUNCED BONNET A spacious bonnet, which is enclosed with strings of fabric. A bonnet is a headgear with or without a front brim, which covered the top, sides and back of the head and tied under the chin: usually made of straw and trimmed with crepe, lace, satin, silk or velvet; ties usually ribbon were attached to the brim or sew to the insides of the bonnet. accessories Women’s hair styles was likely to replicate the lines of their dresses. As skirts were drawn back in the mid to late 1860s, so the hair was also drawn up and back to reveal the ears, but remained flat on top, with curls or a small twist at the back of the head duplicating the back side of the dress. Hair was usually kept after it had been cut and made into art. (floral arrangements, hair lockets, family trees). VICTORIAN HAIRSTYLE The Cuban heel was a working, upper class. Shirt, straight rather thick heel which sup- ported feet well in stir- rups; practical everyday shoe. The Louis heel was first named in the reign of the French King Louis XIV; during th An assortment of women’s boots, 19th century the term referred to a thick, shoes and slippers. (1882) often curved heel which In the 1890’s, heels were astonishingly high, is tapered at the mid at times attaining more than six inches. section before flaring However, by 1901, the heel diminished to a outward. more sensible height less than three inches. accessories Gloves were quiet necessary for both men and women. In the 1890s, men’s gloves could be quite heavy for driving but were or else made from fine fabric in grey, brown or black, by natural chamois. White gloves with evening dress were compul- sory for women. Women’s gloves were short, to the wrist or a little above, until the 1880s when long gloves to the elbow and beyond were worn for evening and three-quarter-length gloves for day, both comfortable fits. Light colors were cus- tomary, but black grew to be quite stylish VICTORIAN GLOVES in the 1880s. Parasols in the 1860s were small, about 12 inches across, trimmed with lace and fringe, regularly with a folding grip; they diverged in size be- tween 1870 and the 1890s when they were big and long- handled, light-coloured and disheveled, or more suave with black lace over bright pink silk, for example. Para- sols of a variety of sizes and shapes, silk, netted or beaded, were conceded during the 1850s-1860s and prolonged for evening and infrequently for day until the 1890s. PARASOLS {1867 – 1898} accessories Initially named the iron hat, the bowler was firm to protect the head of a horseback rider from tree branches. The bowler hat acts as a transition between the upper-class top hat and the malleable hats worn by men of the lower middle class, the bowler hat acted as somewhat of a social leveler and gradually increased in popularity all the way through the 19th century. BOWLER HAT WORN WITH MORNING COAT Men’s walking sticks were light- weight with silver handles, it was often regarded as pretentious for a young man to carry a cane. Men’s jewelry included scarf pins, gold cufflinks and heavy gold watch-chains worn across the front of the waistcoat between the pockets. WALKING STICK {1880S- 1890S} menswear After 1860, the tail or dress coat cut away across the waist, in fine black material with silk or velvet collar, was only worn on formal eve- ning occasions. The day coat of prior years was now demoted to the attire of indoor upper servants. By the late 1880s, a less formal eve- ning coat was established, following the daytime style; called at first a dress lounge, then a dinner jacket which had a roll collar turning low to waist level and faced with silk or satin, and one or two buttons, typi- cally left open; it was quite easy-fitting, the back cut whole, the sleeves often cuffed, with slit pockets on hips and left breast. It was worn at home or for dining out. If ladies were not present, a smoking jacket, introduced in the 1850s, was often worn; single- or double-breasted, usually made of velvet and sometimes cashmere, and might be quilted for second layer to help keep warm. DRESS COAT DINNER JACKET 1850s {1888} menswear MORNING SUIT DOUBLE BREASTED FROCK COAT {1850-1915} A frock coat is a double-breasted man’s coat portrayed by knee-length skirts all around the bottom. The frock coat is a long-sleeved coat with a centre opening at the back, and several features atypical in post- Victorian dress such as the overturn neckline and lapels, where the external perimeter of the lapel is cut from a detached piece of cloth to the chief body, and also the coat’s diameter round the waist is much less than round the chest, causing a high amount of waist restraint.