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Wwd0906web.Pdf CH_WWD_BornIn1928_CoverWrap_14.75x10.75_Mech_Final.indd 1-2 8/30/13 11:18 AM CH_WWD_BornIn1928_CoverWrap_14.75x10.75_Mech_Final.indd 3-4 8/30/13 11:19 AM RAW FOOD GO-TO VIDEO JUERGEN TELLER BRINGS HIS UNMISTAKABLE STYLE MAKEUP ARTIST BOBBI TO PHOTOGRAPHING THE BROWN IS LAUNCHING A CUISINE AT THE LEGENDARY YOUTUBE CHANNEL AIMED ITALIAN HOTEL IL PELLICANO. AT MILLENNIALS. PAGE 14 PAGE 22 EXCLUSIVE Kering Buys Stake In Joseph Altuzarra By JESSICA IREDALE NEW YORK — Joseph Altuzarra is the latest emerg- ing designer to be brought into the Kering portfolio. WWD has learned that Kering, previously PPR, has taken a minority stake in Altuzarra. The deal closed Thursday, two days before the designer shows his FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 6, 2013 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY spring collection in New York. At his Howard Street studio Thursday afternoon, as he was in the midst of WWD fi ttings, he was excited but admittedly tired. “It’s been a superexciting week because [the Kering deal] was all coming together and the collection came in,” said Altuzarra, wearing a T-shirt and camoufl age pants, as Vanessa Traina and various design assistants went through the racks of the spring collection. The designer declined to disclose Kering’s percent- age interest in his company, but emphasized that “it was very important for me to keep [Kering] a minority stake at this point and for us to keep control of Altuzarra. They were incredibly supportive of that decision and Building really understanding of it, and that was also very rare.” “We are delighted to invest in Altuzarra to ac- company the development of this promising fash- ion house,” said Alexis Babeau, managing director, Kering Luxury division. “Joseph is a truly talented designer, and he has already gained great recog- nition in just a few years. By endorsing a young Blocks French-American designer to help accelerate the de- velopment of his brand, Kering fulfi lls its mission to With a recent cash empower new creative talent. Kering takes a minority infusion, Shane Gabier stake in the Altuzarra brand, which means that the SPRING 2014 company will remain independent and controlled by and Christopher Joseph Altuzarra and his family. While not formally Peters are now NEW YORK integrated in Kering’s luxury division, Altuzarra will focused on building COLLECTIONS have access to Kering’s breadth of experience and ex- pertise when relevant.” the commercial viability Advising on the deal was Gail Zauder, managing of their charmingly partner of Elixir Advisors, and Jane Goldstein, of eccentric Creatures of SEE PAGE 6 the Wind collection. For spring, they infused tailoring with an offbeat élan, as in this sleeveless color- Bangladesh Working blocked coatdress worn over a sporty sweater. For more on New York ‘Diligently’ on Safety Fashion Week, see pages 8 to 10. By KRISTI ELLIS WASHINGTON — As fashion week got under way in New York, Bangladesh’s Foreign Minister Dipu Moni was in the nation’s capital on Thursday addressing the specter that has been hanging over the fashion in- dustry in the past nine months — working conditions and worker safety. Moni, in town to speak about Bangladesh’s uncer- tain political future at the Carnegie Endowment for International Peace, was asked to address the steps her government has taken since the Tazreen Fashions Ltd. fi re last November that killed 112 people, and the Rana Plaza Building collapse in late April, which claimed the lives of more than 1,120 people and in- jured hundreds of others. The tragedies stoked an international furor, prompting the U.S. to suspend some trade benefi ts to Bangladesh and prodding the governments of Bangladesh, the U.S. and European Union to collabo- rate with each other, as well as with retailers, apparel brands, labor rights groups and unions, to improve working conditions and fi re and building safety. “What we are [doing] now is to ensure the working conditions are safe, that our workers can enjoy their rights fully. We are working on that very diligently with all of the stakeholders,” Moni said. “We have made considerable progress, but it’s not going to hap- pen overnight. There are many thousands of factories and…the painful inspections of all of these buildings to make sure they are safe is not a task that can be achieved overnight.” PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI SEE PAGE 20 2 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 6, 2013 WWD.COM Versace Eyes Private Stake Sale the Briefing Box Macau, Palazzo Versace will comprise up to 270 rooms By LUISA ZARGANI and suites, one gourmet restaurant, a luxury spa, in- in Today’s WWd door and outdoor swimming pools, retail space and MILAN — Gianni Versace SpA is eyeing an initial other exclusive facilities. Versace will also provide a public offering in three to five years, following a full range of products exclusively for this Palazzo. private sale of a minority stake, said Gian Giacomo “Today we kick off a strategic partnership with an Backstage at BCBG Max Azria’s spring Ferraris, the company’s chief executive officer, on industry leader, and a very promising project,” said show. For more, see WWD.com. Thursday from Macau. Ferraris. “Palazzo Versace will enrich Macau with a After tapping Goldman Sachs and Banca IMI unique property aiming to provide an exclusive ex- almost a year ago, Versace had been evaluating perience and become a destination within a destina- growth opportunities and Ferraris, who was in the tion. At the same time, Palazzo Versace Macau will Chinese city with Donatella Versace to present the be a prestigious and powerful window in a priority Palazzo Versace project, revealed that the compa- market for us. I believe that this project will be ex- ny’s owners are now gearing toward a sale. tremely positive for the Versace brand.” Siblings Santo and Donatella Versace hold 30 Ambrose So, SJM chairman, said this project and 20 percent stakes, respectively, and Donatella’s “continues a long tradition of the East and the West sen daughter, Allegra Versace Beck, owns 50 percent meeting here in Macau,” noting that the palazzo will K ric of the firm. Ferraris has repeatedly said that the “embody Versace’s commitment to excellence in e Versace family does not wish to relinquish control design and workmanship, and [it] will promise an of the luxury firm. Last spring, Ferraris set a target unforgettable hospitality experience to visitors and Kyle for a possible initial public offering: when the com- further enhance Macau’s position as a world center by pany hits sales of 500 million to 600 million euros, of tourism and leisure.” Photo or $659 million to $790 million at current exchange. The Macau Palazzo reflects Versace’s continued In 2012, group revenues climbed 20 percent to 408.7 growth in Asia. Last year, the region posted 38 per- million euros, or $523.1 million at average exchange. cent growth, and, excluding Japan, accounted for 40 First unveiled last month, the Macau Palazzo percent of sales. Kering, previously PPR, has taken a minority stake in Versace will open in 2017, located in a 20-level tower A Palazzo Versace is also expected to open in Altuzarra, two days before Joseph Altuzarra shows his spring that covers more than 367,200 square feet. This is the Dubai in the second half of 2014. collection in New York. Page 1 first Palazzo Versace in Asia and the first five-star, In 2000, a Palazzo Versace opened on Australia’s designer-branded hotel in the former Portuguese exclusive Gold Coast tourist strip in Queensland with Bangladesh’s Foreign Minister Dipu Moni on Thursday colony. Construction is expected to kick off within Australian property developer Sunland Group Ltd. — addressed the specter that has been hanging over the fashion the next few months. Sociedade de Jogos de Macau, a six-star hotel with 205 rooms and 72 condominiums industry — working conditions and safety. Page 1 SA, or SJM, will develop and operate the hotel, decorated in typical Versace style, with neoclassical while Versace will provide design and artistic direc- furniture, fountains, statues and marble floors. Most retailers saw modest comp-store sale increases in tion for the interiors and furnishings for guest rooms Versace is one of several Italian fashion firms, August because of a lackluster back-to-school season. Page 4 and common areas. SJM, which is controlled by SJM from Giorgio Armani and Missoni to Bulgari, Holdings Ltd., is publicly listed in Hong Kong. Salvatore Ferragamo and Moschino, that has en- China’s anticorruption campaign will push Chinese luxury- As part of SJM’s integrated casino resort in Cotai, tered into luxury lodging. goods consumers toward more discreet brands. Page 4 Shares of Martha Stewart Living Omnimedia Inc. dropped 5.7 percent to $2.32 Thursday as investors worried over the company’s relationship with J.C. Penney Co. Inc. Page 4 Cavalli Revenues Rise 7% in Half Bobbi Brown is turning herself into a YouTube impresario with MILAN — The expansion of its retail network and The Italian firm has also been capitalizing on an eye toward luring Millennials, with a lofty goal of attracting new licenses, with an acceleration of the newly re- the designer’s home collection, ranging from furni- launched Just Cavalli line, helped lift profits and rev- ture to wallpaper, based on seven licensing agree- 100 million Internet views in the next 12 months. Page 14 enues at the Roberto Cavalli Group in the first half. ments with leading companies in different interior In the period ended June 30, earnings before sectors, launched last year. The second line was Five new Natural Beauty Bars have opened, illustrating interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization rose presented in April at the fairgrounds of Milan’s Pharmaca’s commitment to natural beauty with wood 19.6 percent to 8.7 million euros, or $11.4 million, international design and furniture exhibition, the fixturing, LED lighting and professional services.
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