CH_WWD_BornIn1928_CoverWrap_14.75x10.75_Mech_Final.indd 1-2 8/30/13 11:18 AM CH_WWD_BornIn1928_CoverWrap_14.75x10.75_Mech_Final.indd 3-4 8/30/13 11:19 AM RAW FOOD GO-TO VIDEO JUERGEN TELLER BRINGS HIS UNMISTAKABLE STYLE MAKEUP ARTIST BOBBI TO PHOTOGRAPHING THE BROWN IS LAUNCHING A CUISINE AT THE LEGENDARY YOUTUBE CHANNEL AIMED ITALIAN HOTEL IL PELLICANO. AT MILLENNIALS. PAGE 14 PAGE 22

EXCLUSIVE Kering Buys Stake In Joseph Altuzarra

By JESSICA IREDALE

NEW YORK — Joseph Altuzarra is the latest emerg- ing designer to be brought into the Kering portfolio. WWD has learned that Kering, previously PPR, has taken a minority stake in Altuzarra. The deal closed Thursday, two days before the designer shows his FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 6, 2013 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY spring collection in New York. At his Howard Street studio Thursday afternoon, as he was in the midst of WWD fi ttings, he was excited but admittedly tired. “It’s been a superexciting week because [the Kering deal] was all coming together and the collection came in,” said Altuzarra, wearing a T- and camoufl age pants, as Vanessa Traina and various design assistants went through the racks of the spring collection. The designer declined to disclose Kering’s percent- age interest in his company, but emphasized that “it was very important for me to keep [Kering] a minority stake at this point and for us to keep control of Altuzarra. They were incredibly supportive of that decision and Building really understanding of it, and that was also very rare.” “We are delighted to invest in Altuzarra to ac- company the development of this promising fash- ion house,” said Alexis Babeau, managing director, Kering Luxury division. “Joseph is a truly talented designer, and he has already gained great recog- nition in just a few years. By endorsing a young Blocks French-American designer to help accelerate the de- velopment of his brand, Kering fulfi lls its mission to With a recent cash empower new creative talent. Kering takes a minority infusion, Shane Gabier stake in the Altuzarra brand, which means that the SPRING 2014 company will remain independent and controlled by and Christopher Joseph Altuzarra and his family. While not formally Peters are now NEW YORK integrated in Kering’s luxury division, Altuzarra will focused on building COLLECTIONS have access to Kering’s breadth of experience and ex- pertise when relevant.” the commercial viability Advising on the deal was Gail Zauder, managing of their charmingly partner of Elixir Advisors, and Jane Goldstein, of eccentric Creatures of SEE PAGE 6 the Wind collection. For spring, they infused tailoring with an offbeat élan, as in this sleeveless color- Bangladesh Working blocked worn over a sporty . For more on New York ‘Diligently’ on Safety Week, see pages 8 to 10. By KRISTI ELLIS

WASHINGTON — As fashion week got under way in New York, Bangladesh’s Foreign Minister Dipu Moni was in the nation’s capital on Thursday addressing the specter that has been hanging over the fashion in- dustry in the past nine months — working conditions and worker safety. Moni, in town to speak about Bangladesh’s uncer- tain political future at the Carnegie Endowment for International Peace, was asked to address the steps her government has taken since the Tazreen Ltd. fi re last November that killed 112 people, and the Rana Plaza Building collapse in late April, which claimed the lives of more than 1,120 people and in- jured hundreds of others. The tragedies stoked an international furor, prompting the U.S. to suspend some trade benefi ts to Bangladesh and prodding the governments of Bangladesh, the U.S. and European Union to collabo- rate with each other, as well as with retailers, apparel brands, labor rights groups and unions, to improve working conditions and fi re and building safety. “What we are [doing] now is to ensure the working conditions are safe, that our workers can enjoy their rights fully. We are working on that very diligently with all of the stakeholders,” Moni said. “We have made considerable progress, but it’s not going to hap- pen overnight. There are many thousands of factories and…the painful inspections of all of these buildings to make sure they are safe is not a task that can be achieved overnight.” PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI SEE PAGE 20 2 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 6, 2013 WWD.COM

Versace Eyes Private Stake Sale the Briefing Box Macau, Palazzo Versace will comprise up to 270 rooms By LUISA ZARGANI and suites, one gourmet restaurant, a luxury spa, in- in Today’s WWd door and outdoor swimming pools, retail space and — Gianni Versace SpA is eyeing an initial other exclusive facilities. Versace will also provide a public offering in three to five years, following a full range of products exclusively for this Palazzo. private sale of a minority stake, said Gian Giacomo “Today we kick off a strategic partnership with an Backstage at BCBG Max Azria’s spring Ferraris, the company’s chief executive officer, on industry leader, and a very promising project,” said show. For more, see WWD.com. Thursday from Macau. Ferraris. “Palazzo Versace will enrich Macau with a After tapping Goldman Sachs and Banca IMI unique property aiming to provide an exclusive ex- almost a year ago, Versace had been evaluating perience and become a destination within a destina- growth opportunities and Ferraris, who was in the tion. At the same time, Palazzo Versace Macau will Chinese city with Donatella Versace to present the be a prestigious and powerful window in a priority Palazzo Versace project, revealed that the compa- market for us. I believe that this project will be ex- ny’s owners are now gearing toward a sale. tremely positive for the Versace brand.” Siblings Santo and Donatella Versace hold 30 Ambrose So, SJM chairman, said this project and 20 percent stakes, respectively, and Donatella’s “continues a long tradition of the East and the West sen

daughter, Allegra Versace Beck, owns 50 percent meeting here in Macau,” noting that the palazzo will K ric

of the firm. Ferraris has repeatedly said that the “embody Versace’s commitment to excellence in e Versace family does not wish to relinquish control design and workmanship, and [it] will promise an of the luxury firm. Last spring, Ferraris set a target unforgettable hospitality experience to visitors and Kyle for a possible initial public offering: when the com- further enhance Macau’s position as a world center pany hits sales of 500 million to 600 million euros, of tourism and leisure.” Photo by or $659 million to $790 million at current exchange. The Macau Palazzo reflects Versace’s continued In 2012, group revenues climbed 20 percent to 408.7 growth in Asia. Last year, the region posted 38 per- million euros, or $523.1 million at average exchange. cent growth, and, excluding Japan, accounted for 40 First unveiled last month, the Macau Palazzo percent of sales. Kering, previously PPR, has taken a minority stake in Versace will open in 2017, located in a 20-level tower A Palazzo Versace is also expected to open in Altuzarra, two days before Joseph Altuzarra shows his spring that covers more than 367,200 square feet. This is the Dubai in the second half of 2014. collection in New York. Page 1 first Palazzo Versace in Asia and the first five-star, In 2000, a Palazzo Versace opened on Australia’s designer-branded hotel in the former Portuguese exclusive Gold Coast tourist strip in Queensland with Bangladesh’s Foreign Minister Dipu Moni on Thursday colony. Construction is expected to kick off within Australian property developer Sunland Group Ltd. — addressed the specter that has been hanging over the fashion the next few months. Sociedade de Jogos de Macau, a six-star hotel with 205 rooms and 72 condominiums industry — working conditions and safety. Page 1 SA, or SJM, will develop and operate the hotel, decorated in typical Versace style, with neoclassical while Versace will provide design and artistic direc- furniture, fountains, statues and marble floors. Most retailers saw modest comp-store sale increases in tion for the interiors and furnishings for guest rooms Versace is one of several Italian fashion firms, August because of a lackluster back-to-school season. Page 4 and common areas. SJM, which is controlled by SJM from Giorgio and Missoni to Bulgari, Holdings Ltd., is publicly listed in Hong Kong. Salvatore Ferragamo and Moschino, that has en- China’s anticorruption campaign will push Chinese luxury- As part of SJM’s integrated casino resort in Cotai, tered into luxury lodging. goods consumers toward more discreet brands. Page 4

Shares of Martha Stewart Living Omnimedia Inc. dropped 5.7 percent to $2.32 Thursday as investors worried over the company’s relationship with J.C. Penney Co. Inc. Page 4 Cavalli Revenues Rise 7% in Half Bobbi Brown is turning herself into a YouTube impresario with MILAN — The expansion of its retail network and The Italian firm has also been capitalizing on an eye toward luring Millennials, with a lofty goal of attracting new licenses, with an acceleration of the newly re- the designer’s home collection, ranging from furni- launched Just Cavalli line, helped lift profits and rev- ture to wallpaper, based on seven licensing agree- 100 million Internet views in the next 12 months. Page 14 enues at the Roberto Cavalli Group in the first half. ments with leading companies in different interior In the period ended June 30, earnings before sectors, launched last year. The second line was Five new Natural Beauty Bars have opened, illustrating interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization rose presented in April at the fairgrounds of Milan’s Pharmaca’s commitment to natural beauty with wood 19.6 percent to 8.7 million euros, or $11.4 million, international design and furniture exhibition, the fixturing, LED lighting and professional services. Page 18 compared with 7.3 million euros, or $9.4 million, in Salone del Mobile. the same period last year. Revenues gained 7 per- Cavalli is also banking on hospitality projects. A To mark its five-year anniversary, Dannijo is veering into cent to 97 million euros, or $127 million, compared new Cavalli Club will open in Miami in November, new territory with its first collection. Page 19 with 90.7 million euros, or $117 million. in addition to the two existing Cavalli Clubs and six Dollar amounts have been converted at average Cavalli Caffès. The Diversity Coalition sent letters Thursday to governing exchange for the periods to which they refer. In the first half, retail sales grew 17.8 percent. bodies of fashion weeks in New York, , Milan and Royalties grew 28 percent, mainly through the There are currently 173 monobrand group bou- Paris alleging racism on the runways. Page 19 new Just Cavalli line produced by Staff International. tiques, an increase of 36 units compared with June Collections for Just Cavalli under a new licensing 2012. Of these monobrand venues, 31 are in China Ulrik Garde Due has been named chief executive officer of agreement with Staff International bowed in 2012, and 20 in Southeast Asia and Japan. Temperley London, WWD has learned. Page 20 succeeding a long-standing deal with Ittierre. In the second half, 22 stores are expected to be The company also pointed to the success of the opened: three Roberto Cavalli, seven Just Cavalli — Despite a decent star quotient, Wednesday night’s Style new fragrances with Coty Inc., such as the new including the flagship on Broadway in New York — Awards at Lincoln Center fell flat. Page 20 Roberto Cavalli scent, launched last year, followed eight Cavalli Class and four RC Junior.

by the introduction of the Just Cavalli fragrance. — L.Z. Lily Aldridge is prepping another collaboration with Velvet by Graham & to premiere in the spring. Page 23 Hilfiger Amps Up Digital Runway Presence on WWD.CoM RUNWAY: For the latest collections, front-row and backstage By RACHEL STRUGATZ photos from New York Fashion Week, see WWD.com.

NEW YORK — Tommy Hilfiger wants to elevate the digital experience surrounding his runway show on To e-mail reporTers and ediTors aT WWd, The address is Monday — and he’s employing an eclectic combination [email protected], using The individual’s name. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. of industry- and consumer-facing initiatives to do so. COPYRIGHT ©2013 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. People attending the show will have a global VOLUME 206, NO. 48. FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 6, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, May, June, August, October and December, and two social concierge at their disposal. Once they’re on additional issues in February, April, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance site, guests can make personalized photo requests, Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, which will be shot, edited and fulfilled within min- Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, utes to one’s mobile device. and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Tommy Hilfiger’s runway newsroom. Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver “If you need a photo of a certain model, or a Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North or bag we will have that to you,” Hilfiger told buyers, including run of show, video footage, inspi- Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. WWD Thursday, adding that a team of 30 (25 on site) ration and set-design details. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or will be responding to requests. People who make “There is increased pressure on media and influ- inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine use of the service will be encouraged to share the encers to communicate immediately to their follow- is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. photos though social networks. ers,” said Avery Baker, the brand’s chief marketing You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt “I think real-time is very important, and being able officer. “We felt this program would help facilitate of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request to show the public everything we’re doing — from and streamline the process for them.” for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at styling the models backstage to choosing the right The show’s third digital element, “The www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that — is something people want to see,” Hilfiger said. Conversation,” will play out on more than 90 feet of we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at “We’re really opening our world to the public.” screens streaming social media content from various P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED The moment Hilfiger takes his bow, attendees platforms. This is the second time Hilfiger will incor- ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER will receive an e-mail linking them to a runway porate display screens into its runway show, culling UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR newsroom of sorts. This newsroom will house mate- content from the brand, as well as media, influencers DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A rials relating to the spring collection for press and and fans — whether positive or negative. SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

w06a002a;18.indd 2 9/5/13 8:49 PM 09052013204944 T:10” T:13.875”

Makeup artistry by Charlotte Willer. ©2013 Maybelline LLC.

MCX3-10134645B MAYBELLINE COMPANY Bleed None Dir of Studio Svcs Chris Weston Corporate Trim 10” x 13.875” Dir of Graphic Svcs Stuart Turner Fall 2013 Fashion Week – Daniela Safety None Project Manager Phil Krell Page Gutter None Account Exec Kathryn Burns Daniela de Jesus Line Screen 100 Global Creative Dir Jane Mauksch 4/C Newspaper Non-bleed Page Lo/Hi Res Hi Creative Director Elena Pavlov WWD: Sept. 6, 2013 Paper Newsprint Art Director Leanne Skorge Proof # 1 Copywriter Robyn Dutra Revision Round 5 Proofreader Denni Heiges Operator: Beauty Print/Export: 8-23-2013 5:46 PM Printed At: 100% Fonts: Helvetica Neue (55 Roman) PDF Sent To Images: MCX3-10134645B_Comp_F_4CNP_400dpi.tif (CMYK; 572 ppi; 69.85%), MCX3-10134645B_MNY-FW_2013_ Additional Specs: Fall_KO_30.ai (137%), MAYNY05_PG_White.eps (175.92%) None Inks: Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, Black Notes: None

4 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 6, 2013 WWD.COM B-t-s Fails to·· Ignite August Retail Sales goal of driving consistent posi- expansion in last year’s month, become a commodity, they’re By ARNOLD J. KARR tive comp-sales growth on of with Victoria’s Secret ahead 3 either not buying it or buying it last year’s strong performance,” percent and Bath & Body Works Comparable at one of the discounters. With RETAILERS struggled to get said Glenn Murphy, chairman up 1 percent. August behind us, September kids into stores as students and chief executive officer of Janet Kloppenburg, analyst Sales for August will be more of a test for the wrestled with the idea of going Gap. The 2 percent corporate and president of JJK Research, % Change missy merchants.” back to school last month, leav- increase came on top of a stron- noted that, based on Thursday’s Costco * 5 The strongest performance ing most of those reporting with ger 9 percent increase last year, comp reports and her own retail ...... among those reporting Thursday modest August increases. a pattern repeated by other checks, business was difficult for Stein Mart 3.8 came from Costco Wholesale ...... Among those releasing com- those serving younger customers, Corp., which, excluding fuel, 3 parable sales on Thursday, with multibrand retailers, espe- ...... registered a 5 percent increase there was general agreement cially those serving the surf-and- Victoria’s Secret 3 in its U.S. stores, with softlines that stores got much of their Clearly, and across skate market, generally doing ...... the strongest category, comping business late in the month, as better than monobrand retailers. Zumiez 3 in the low-double-digits, and Labor Day approached, and “If you dissect the Victoria’s ...... apparel and jewelry standouts the board, the Banana Republic 2 only after a combination of vig- Secret numbers, you find that ...... within the area. With sales of orous promotions and cooler the one area where they had a Gap 2 $7.95 billion in August, the final temperatures established more back-to-school little softness was in the Pink ap- ...... month of its fiscal year, Costco of a sense of urgency about buy- parel business,” she told WWD. Bath & Body Works 1 joined the ranks of U.S.-based ing apparel. Thomson Reuters “That’s a high school or college- ...... retailers with more than $100 consumer was Buckle 1 put the mean increase for the age student, in many cases, who ...... billion in annual sales, finishing month at 3.5 percent. you would think would be gear- fiscal 2013 at $102.9 billion. Old Navy 1 Among the small sample still very constrained ing up with clothes to take back ...... American Apparel Inc.’s reporting monthly results, Gap to school. Clearly, and across Cato -2 comps were up 3 percent, ver- Inc. fell slightly below expecta- in August. the board, the back-to-school sus 14 percent a year ago, as SOURCE: COMPANY REPORTS tions, with a 2 percent increase consumer was very constrained * Excludes fuel sales. it struggled with the transition that was just below the 2.2 — JANET KLOPPENBURG, in August, while business was to a new distribution center. percent increase tabulated by better for those serving the The two teen retailers in the Thomson Reuters. The Gap and JJK RESEARCH missy customer. And a lot of the such as cars and even houses, sample, Zumiez Inc. and The Old Navy brands, expected to business came at the end of the and the difficulty of replacing Buckle Inc., beat expecta- grow 2.8 and 1.3 percent, respec- stores, which saw low-single- month, a good deal of it during the high volume generated last tions with increases of 3 and tively, registered comparable digit increases versus gains in Labor Day weekend.” year by the strong growth of 1 percent, respectively, and gains of 2 and 1 percent, while the mid- to high-single-digit Among the possible expla- colored . Stein Mart Inc. continued its Banana Republic, expected to range in August 2012. nations, she noted, were less “The kid is paying for some- recent winning streak with a recede 0.4 percent, instead grew Similarly, L Brands Inc., for- discretionary income for teens thing that’s new and authentic,” 3.8 percent increase, the sec- at a 2 percent clip. merly Limited Brands, was up as their parents recently have she added. “When it’s something ond highest among the stores “We continue to meet our 2 percent against·· an 8 percent favored high-ticket purchases, already in the closet or that’s tracked by WWD. Luxury Taking Discreet Turn in China MSLO Shares “As Chinese culture advocates a By KATHLEEN MCLAUGHLIN simple and modest lifestyle, these cases Decline 5.7% will have a negative impact on luxury BEIJING — China’s anticorruption cam- brands and people may connect cor- paign, compounded by the watchful eyes ruption with luxury goods,” explained of Internet users intent on exposing em- Zeng Mingyue, research fellow focused By EVAN CLARK barrassing cases of official excess, will on China’s luxury market with Beijing’s push Chinese luxury-goods consumers to- University of International Business SHARES OF Martha Stewart Living ward more discreet brands and products. and Economics. Omnimedia Inc. dropped 5.7 percent That’s according to industry ana- “This is not the problem of the lux- to $2.32 Thursday as investors worried lysts monitoring the impact of ongoing ury goods. Actually, it is because those over the company’s relationship with efforts of China’s new regime to tamp government officials’ salaries are not J.C. Penney Co. Inc. down corruption, alongside a high- enough to buy luxury goods,” she said. The New York Post reported that level political purge of top officials, the “When the photos of government offi- Penney’s chief executive officer likes of which have not been seen here cials wearing [luxury] are ex- Myron “Mike” Ullman 3rd was going for decades. The anticorruption drive posed online, people will question.” to drop the retailer’s line of Martha has already cut into sales of some of Anecdotally, industry groups have Stewart home goods. The 2011 deal China’s most lavish consumer items, noted a decline in demand for some lux- that created the collection is now including expensive liquor, imported ury products alongside the anticorrup- the subject of a battle in New York luxury-brand watches and even sharks’ tion drive, though there are few hard Supreme Court with Macy’s Inc.,

FENG LI/GETTY IMAGES Bo Xilai was involved in a corruption fins, a controversial delicacy used to statistics on the matter. The campaign is which already had an agreement with scandal last year. make pricy soup. likely to change consumer behavior and the brand.

Going forward, the campaign is likely PHOTO BY tastes rather than cripple the luxury- But a Penney’s spokeswoman said, to change consumer behavior beyond goods industry in China. “With regard to the product categories government officials, drawing greater de- Consumers “might still be purchas- “Consumption of luxury goods is decid- at issue in the lawsuit, the company is mand for high-quality items rather than ing extremely pricy items, however, ed by the culture and consumers’ power of awaiting the judge’s ruling and we are showy labels and loudly branded prod- instead of wearing them out in public, consumption. It will also be influenced by not commenting any further.” ucts. Already many brands are toning they might only do so during private oc- social events,” explained Zeng. Penney’s former ceo Ron Johnson down their offerings to the Chinese mar- casions,” he said. “One segment that is Zeng said new government regu- negotiated with Stewart to create the ket and offering more exclusive products. developing well is art since it is much lations on official spending that has controversial line and also spent $38.5 Pablo Mauron, China general man- more private and represents a very wise prompted a decline in demand will, million for a 16.6 percent stake in the ager of the Digital Luxury Group, said choice in terms of financial investment.” over time, create a healthier, more real- home goods firm. the trend began with the rise of new Bo Xilai and his wife, a glamorous at- istic and stable market for luxury items. A Martha Stewart spokeswoman President Xi Jinping, who promised torney convicted last year of murdering “The strict regulations on spending on noted that: “J.C. Penney remains one to crack down on official corruption. a British business associate in a corrupt official receptions, vehicles and overseas of our many retail partners. Our agree- The bribery and embezzlement trial of deal gone sour, have become emblem- trips are a good thing,” she said. “They ment with them is in force, and we Communist Party of China heavyweight atic of the type of excess that many now will actually regulate the luxury market have no intention of ending it.” and former commerce minister Bo Xilai wish to avoid. The Bo family, Mauron and benefit for its normal development.” A source at Penney’s said a lot was last month added fuel to the fire, and noted, became symbolic in China’s vi- The connection between the anticor- going to depend on how the judge rules. a growing concern over how wealthy brant social media world, where crit- ruption drive and declines in luxury- In the meantime, the retailer is Chinese are perceived and targeted by ics seek and target examples of excess goods sales has now become fodder for making some adjustments in the home the rest of society. among government officials. China’s vocal online commentators. area, which was recently revamped but “We are starting to see an impact on In one of the best-known of those “The best choice for curbing flopped with consumers. the types of products that are purchased cases, a provincial official nicknamed European luxury goods is not levying “Things have to earn their space and the way they are consumed,” said “Brother ” was sentenced to taxes, but anticorruption,” commented in the home department and the way Mauron. “The Chinese luxury-goods 14 years in prison for corruption on one Weibo user. it currently stands, Martha has a lot consumers are less flashy than before, Thursday after Internet users had un- But that’s not exactly true. Mauron of space with lower-dollar items like consequently some brands that were earthed photos of him over a year ago noted that China’s luxury-goods con- paper products,” the source said, the typical illustration of wealth have wearing several different high-end watch- sumer group now reaches well beyond noting some of the brand’s offerings become less popular.” es. The complaint is that no official could the halls of its government. might deserve more space, such as That does not mean China’s luxury- afford such watches on a government sal- “Government officials are no longer window coverings. goods consumers have stopped buying, ar y, so the official’s watches were likely the only luxury-goods consumers in Shares of Penney’s gained 5.3 per- but tastes are changing, said Mauron. bribes from people seeking favors. China,” he pointed out. cent to $14.22 Wednesday. The secret behind the perfect curl is here.

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www.curlsecret.com 6 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 6, 2013 ·· WWD.COM Kering Ta kes Stake in Altuzarra

{Continued from page one} Ropes & Gray LLP. Talks began about a year ago, when Altuzarra and his man- I really needed a agement decided that it was time to seek investment. Until then, the business had been self-financed with help from partner who would Altuzarra’s family. “There was this need for financial be able to provide support, but there was also a need for infrastructure and expertise and experi- expertise of the ence, especially in the market sector that we’re in, which is luxury,” said Altuzarra. “I really felt that I couldn’t just do finan- business that we’re cial support. I really needed a partner who would be able to provide expertise in and also be able of the business that we’re in and also be able to find the synergies that would help to find the synergies us.” He was speaking specifically about accessories. It took Altuzarra a minute to remem- that would help us. ber, but it was Kering that initially put the feelers out over the course of several — JOSEPH ALTUZARRA

Fall 2013 EICHNER STEVE AND GIANNONI GIOVANNI CELESTE; JIMI casual meetings. “I really liked [Kering’s] ▼ teams a lot,” said Altuzarra. “I really liked François-Henri’s [Pinault, Kering’s chair- man] approach and philosophy of brand building. He has this incredible respect and understanding for creativity.” He also has deep knowledge of and an impressive Spring 2013 ▲

record with accessories, in par- BY MORELAND;LEXIE RUNWAY ticular, which was an attractive quality for Altuzarra. “It’s amazing to be able to have the help and expert support of Kering ·· to do bags, especially knowing that they BY PORTRAIT have Gucci and Bottega [Veneta],” the success with other fashion names. For designer said. example, the conglomerate recently There is no timeline in place for trumpeted that Balenciaga multi- the launch of handbags, which plied in size by 11 times since it was Altuzarra has never designed, acquired in 2000, with McQueen grow- although he has produced ing by a factor of 12 since a majority with Gianvito Rossi for the past stake in the London-based fashion firm few seasons. Accessories are was purchased later that same year. the most pressing area of devel- Kering’s major fashion holdings include opment, more so than building Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, his own retail network. Stella McCartney and Brioni. Beefing up As it stands now, Altuzarra is its holdings in hard luxury, last December a tiny operation, with eight full- the group acquired a majority stake in time employees and distribution Chinese fine jewelry brand Qeelin, with im- in 50 stores online and world- mediate plans to accelerate its expansion wide. Altuzarra said sales are through store openings in Asia. Last April, “under $10 million” but declined the French company snapped up a much to get more specific. Kering’s in- bigger gem, Italian jeweler Pomellato, will go back into the in- adding to a portfolio that includes the frastructure, to expand the team Place Vendôme jeweler Boucheron and and develop work flow, including watch brands Girard-Perregaux and his first pre-fall collection, which is JeanRichard. According to market sources, already under way. There are no plans the Ecco Domani award with me,” said Altuzarra. “But I would Kering could be poised to take a 51 percent to change management — Altuzarra in 2010, the CFDA/Vogue see her and I was really good friends with stake in Swiss watch brand Richard Mille. hired his current chief executive offi- Fashion Fund prize in 2011, her assistant [Melanie Huynh], who is Like other luxury groups, Kering has cer Karis Durmer a year and half ago. CFDA’s Swarovski Award for one of my best friends, and she styles the also been securing important suppliers of His mother was acting ceo prior to that Womenswear in 2012 and the show, actually. Carine came to [the first] the rare and expensive luxury materials and is now the company chairman. USA Woolmark Prize in 2013. presentation and really liked it. needed to make high-end leather goods Asked about the direction he wants Prices for his collection av- “The woman I was designing for in and fashions. To wit: Last March it ac- to take for his brand, Altuzarra said, erage about $800 to $4,000. a lot of ways was someone similar to quired a majority stake in France Croco, “What I really loved about Kering was Altuzarra grew up in Paris. Carine,” said Altuzarra. “I like designing an elite producer of tanned skins located how they invested and helped brands Fall His father is French and his for women, not girls. Today, compared to in the Normandy region of France. from the ground up. Alexander 2009 mother is Chinese-American. 25 or 30 years ago, when you’re 55 or 60, Controlled by the Pinault family, McQueen and Stella McCartney, they Neither had a fashion back- with the rise of plastic surgery and nutri- Kering has been shedding its historic re- were tiny brands when Kering came ground, but Altuzarra was al- tion and exercise, you don’t want to tail activities to focus on its core luxury in and I very much admire both of ways drawn to fashion’s transfor- like a grandmother. Yo u still want to be and sports and lifestyle divisions. The those brands. I think there’s a cohe- mative nature. “There was sort sexy and be in touch with your feminine latter consists of Puma, Cobra, Volcom, siveness in their universe and a very of this Pygmalionlike quality to side and not lose your sexuality. That was Tretorn and Electric. Executives have idiosyncratic way of building their own fashion that I was very attracted very much the idea.” stated an interest in adding an outdoor worlds, which I really respect and admire. to as a teenager because I was a Sophistication and a consistent un- brand to the portfolio. That is the kind of brand we would want very unhappy teenager,” he said. dercurrent of Parisian seduction have To be sure, Europe’s luxury brands to be down the line.” “I felt like clothing could somehow make come to define his aesthetic, which is are waking up to the potential of bank- Altuzarra ascended the fashion food you popular.” definitely for mature, fashion-forward able young designers, while also securing chain almost instantly. He launched his He attended a traditional French lycée audiences. Two of the key looks from future talent for their heritage brands. own line for spring 2008 under rather in- before moving to Pennsylvania to attend his fall 2013 collection were sexy riffs On the other side of the table, designers auspicious circumstances. “We opened Swarthmore College, a small liberal arts on classic trenchcoats, done in real and with young businesses seem open to white market the day of the [stock market] school, where he graduated in 2004 with faux leather, and giant black-and-white knights who can help them face a com- crash,” said Altuzarra. “It was crazy. It a degree in art history. At that point, his fox fur mittens that looked like skunk petitive landscape dominated by powerful did not feel like good timing at the time, fashion experience was limited to work- boxing gloves. global brands. Sources said LVMH Moët but in a way we had nowhere else to go ing in a shop during college. Kering has recently stepped up its pace Hennessy Louis Vuitton is in advanced but up. It wasn’t like we had sales and He had no formal design training, and of luxury and fashion acquisitions. In a talks to invest in hot British shoe designer they were going down.” fashion didn’t become a serious career deal that hinted of its appetite for young Nicholas Kirkwood. WWD first reported on He had retail and editorial support prospect until Altuzarra moved to New designers, the group in January took a 51 contact between the two firms last March. from the beginning: His first collection York. An internship at Marc Jacobs led percent stake in London-based Christopher Last year, LVMH took an undisclosed was picked up by Dover Street Market, to a freelance design position at Proenza Kane, planning to seize on the Scottish de- stake in the fledgling business of Maxime Ikram and Barneys New York. He also Schouler, where Altuzarra crossed paths signer’s notoriety and creative prowess to Simoens, a 28-year-old French wunderkind. found a fan in Carine Roitfeld, whose with patternmaker Nicolas Caito, for accelerate expansion and develop his busi- As for Altuzarra, he plans to use the patronage is known to open doors. She whom he apprenticed back in Paris. An ness as a global luxury brand. Kering money wisely and strictly for paraded around the fall 2009 collec- assistant’s job with Riccardo Tisci at Kering executives have repeatedly business. “I’m not getting a house in tions in an Altuzarra trimmed in fur Givenchy followed, which is where he cited a preference for buying mainly Hawaii or St. Barth’s,” he said. tails plucked from that season’s collec- met Roitfeld. “I was [Tisci’s] assistant, small and medium-size firms with strong — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM tion. In quick succession, he picked up so it wasn’t like she was like hanging out growth potential, eager to replicate its MILES SOCHA, PARIS

8 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 6, 2013

Creatures of Richard Chai love Richard Chai the Wind

For more reVIeWS AND ImAGeS, See WWD.com/ runway.

New Yo r k Collections FAshion Week oFFiCiAlly Got RollinG With loAds oF pRints, GeoMetRiCs And sleek Cuts.

Creatures of the Wind: It’s an photographs of his wife, staged so the show closer, a dove gray particular was a fresh update their archives. “Our design interesting moment for Shane pictures in which she looked nylon dress under a techno- on the biker trend. approach has always been Gabier and Christopher like an “other-worldly being,” mesh corset with artisanal The collaboration was even about deconstructing and Peters. Clearly, the designers according to Gabier. embroidery. It made for an stronger in the men’s lineup, reconstructing garments,” said are set on the development of The results were plenty iconoclastic take on high which helped toughen up looks Lubov backstage. The men’s Creatures of the Wind beyond charming if imperfect as evening, and a (not too) arty that in the past could feel too tailored shirt was the starting limited-viability editorial the designers negotiated delight. soft and ethereal. These harder point for this go-round, shown charm, a direction evident in the delicate dance of viable edges translated into well- in both crisp white cotton their last two collections. With eccentricity. They did so with Richard Chai: Richard Chai structured tailored clothing, and chambray. Elements of a recent investment of cash crisp, at times feisty, tailored covered a lot of territory with at times paired with skinny the classic garment — a cuff from the Los Angeles-based shapes, and while the opening his spring Richard Chai Love pants but also shown with as a belt detail, the yoke as Dock Group, they can now looks swung a little too Prada, collection, wandering from airy palazzo-style flowy bottoms. a peplum, flyaway tails as focus more fully on the creative happily, what followed did tailoring to simple to Chai’s signature layering an edge — were worked into side of this endeavor. not. Unusual combinations maxiskirts and crop tops, with worked better here, especially dresses, and for a The designers called dominated: a sleeveless some puzzling layers worked with the cotton Henley over a look that was more louche than their spring collection “The coatdress color-blocked in in, too. His -over-pants cornflower blue windowpane buttoned-up (splicing sheer Pale Hyperborea,” after the shades of pink and gray over styling technique confused. Of shirt and sky blue glen- tulle into the fabrics added to mythological Greek paradise a sweater with athletic arm the many options presented, plaid pleated . But the the effect). A rare flower-print of nonspecific location; they stripes, a terrific clash of shine the maxi lengths — dresses and highlight was undoubtedly the moment delivered a feminine were drawn to the notion of via a plastic-coated jacket extra-long, extra-wide Andrew Marc leathers, which feel via flowing dresses and the ephemeral. Thus, they over silver metallic skirt. That — were the most interesting, provided a lift to the entire . For evening, the worked the nonspecific angle glossy current ran throughout, although the fits seemed presentation. tuxedo and its trappings with vague tropical and desert rendered both casually — giant off. Chai also introduced a morphed into chiffon , a references in their palette, the gold pajama pants worn with collaboration of leathers with BCBG Max Azria: In anticipation jacket and a . latter emergent from a current a black sweater — and in an Andrew Marc, the result of of BCBG Max Azria’s 25th fascination with Eugene Von evening dress that rang a little which were some nifty quilted anniversary next year, Max Rachel Comey: A lush, urban Bruenchenhein’s Fifties mundane by comparison. Not moto ; a long white style in and Lubov Azria delved into garden that opened into a

w06a008a(9);8.indd 1 9/5/13 8:05 PM 09052013200633 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 6, 2013 9 WWD.COM

Richard Chai BCBG Max Rachel Comey honor escada Azria

Marissa Webb

cavernous yet warm gallery tight with off-the-shoulder tops. also more urban outfits thrown and on a flared space in (Dustin Perhaps the best example came into the mix: a chic black-and- with see-through details.

Yellin’s Pioneer Works studio); at the end — a navy cotton sack white evening jumpsuit offered IANNACCONE music by songstress Justin dress, simple and airy in shape a feminine take on the tuxedo, Marissa Webb: Now in her third Vivian Bond, and supper with shoulder cutouts for sass. and a leather A-line dress season, Marissa Webb focused courtesy of Julia Ziegler-Haynes Fine on its own, but even better featured cutouts created with on the evolution of her brand of cult favorite the Dinner Bell. dotted with little gems and pink high-pressure water, a new by “elaborating on my own That was Rachel Comey’s idea ostrich feathers. technique for the brand. personal aesthetic and what a

of a salon-style presentation, woman would want,” she said. GIANNONI AND THOMAS and the results from start to escada: Escapism was the key honor: Recreating an enchanted “Nothing’s too costumey.” So finish were delightful. word at Escada. Creative forest of birch trees populated Webb sent out a tight lineup of As celebrities like Maggie director Daniel Wingate took by fireflies, creative director great clothes for real life, with Gyllenhaal, Zosia Mamet and an imaginative journey around Giovanna Randall set the tone each item able to stand on its Cindy Sherman looked on, the world, collecting different of her cute collection with a own. For the girly-girl there models wafted about during inspirations that he nicely girly, fairylike appeal. Flowers was a pink sashed petal top dinner. “I loved the idea of juxtaposed into the elegant-yet- took center stage as laser- and full skirt, both in a stiff silk mixing the rough with the relaxed lineup. cut appliqués embellishing that held shape beautifully, as decorative and fancy,” said A two-tone floral print several pieces, including a well as a delicate red chiffon GIOVANNI CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, Comey preshow. She rooted the on both a one-shouldered pretty cotton summer coat with dress and flirty strapless collection in denim, cut into maxidress and a silk dress contrasting collar (the show numbers worn over crisp shirts raw-edged and embellished with caviar-like opener) and a little blue jacket with . Then things roomy tunics, some splattered beads echoed the French over a matching silk and toughened up with a touch with paint to great effect. Then, Riviera’s sophisticated vibe, shorts. Randall also designed of military via a fatigue moto

tapping her provocative side, while a silk frock draped a sophisticated floral pattern jacket and pants with leather GEORGE JOHN AQUINO,

she perforated leather skirts along the shoulders featured that was pigment-printed on a insets. But her strongest pieces BY to a peekaboo netting feel, and a pineapple pattern for a bit silk halter top matched with a were the tweeds, especially the

cut velvet and lace dresses of tropical flavor. There were in a baroque motif, minidress over leather shorts. PHOTOS

w06a008a(9);8.indd 2 9/5/13 8:05 PM 09052013200634 10 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 6, 2013 WWD.COM

Tanya Taylor 10 Crosby Derek Lam Veronica Harbison Beard

SPRING 2014 NEW YORK Robert Desigual Rodriguez COLLECTIONS MITRA CHINSEE AND ROBERT For more reVIeWS AND ImAGeS, See WWD.com/ runway. GEORGE JOHN AQUINO, BY PHOTOS

Tanya Taylor: After several seasons what would she wear? The collection for spring. “Eighties ginghams. What sounds like a bit the Spanish megaretailer of presentations, Tanya Taylor answer was a collection of uptown girl goes underground,” much actually worked to lovely chose New York for its first opted for her first runway show easy pieces inspired by that said Swanson Beard of the effect: Classic featured runway show because it’s for spring. “When you’re playing landscape, said vice president season’s inspiration, which buttons with an African feel, “the most international city in with fabrics like organza that of design Elizabeth Giardina at registered in a bright floral- cabana trousers were cinched the world.” Under the design move, it’s more effective to have the brand’s new Meatpacking print scuba jacket and a mean just above the ankle and a slew direction of Christian Lacroix a show,” Taylor noted. Inspired District shop. There were gauzy pencil skirt that fit so well of beautiful tailored coats were for six seasons now, the brand by Caro Niederer’s landscape dresses, open-weave knits and “it’s like wearing Spanx,” she anything but basic. is known for vibrant prints paintings, Taylor reinterpreted block-printed silks. A black- said. Overall, the collection and mix-and-match patterns. the artist’s use of color with and-white jacquard crisscross was sportier and more body- Robert Rodriguez: For his 10th For spring, things got started shades of pink, orange and blue. top paired with pleated conscious than previous anniversary collection, Robert with an homage to Mod with A painter herself, Taylor hand- trousers was particularly seasons, with tight racer-back Rodriguez incorporated graphic black-and-white painted the floral motifs that noteworthy. dresses and denim-printed painstakingly crafted prints on dresses and coats. came on a white leather dress leather. The attitude served embellishments onto his There were touches of tribal, and moto jacket, resulting in a Veronica Beard: Veronica Miele the dickey angle — which the signature architectural shapes. too, with colorful florals, tough-yet-girly look. (She and Beard and Veronica Swanson designers are smart not to lose A bonded canvas jacket tie-dye motifs and stripes on her team also painted all of her Beard, the sisters-in-law who sight of — best, infusing it with featured ethnic beading in a everything from little frocks show invites.) Elsewhere, the ended up with the same name a confident edge, as in a trim 3-D effect down its front, while to pantsuits, along with a collection was feminine and and also happen to be young, white cotton moto jacket. a black sweatshirt was charming sketched motif of sweet, with rainbow stripes on attractive working mothers, adorned with hand-stamped Barcelona on a coat. dresses and skirts, a gingham- are a marketing dream come Harbison: Now in his second matte sequins. The decorative With only a few looks, the and-floral printed frock and true. Now how to tap into that season, Charles Elliott Harbison aspects played up Rodriguez’s men’s wear offering seemed more florals on a jacket, this potential? They’re evolving is creating major buzz with “African Tribes to Futuristic like an afterthought. But what time in the form of oversize not only the -and-dickey his luxury line, Harbison. His Warriors” theme while still was shown was casual, ranging appliqués. concept they started with, but spring influences included allowing his more simple from waxed black denim also their prices with a recent everything from the late tailored pieces to shine. with a black-and-white mini 10 Crosby Derek Lam: Were the shift to advanced contemporary, Aaliyah’s Nineties tomboy style plaid shirt and black blazer to a 10 Crosby girl to find herself while delivering their most to Yves Klein colors to tribal Desigual: Desigual managing three-quarter-length T-shirt in a on the beaches of Zanzibar, youthful, fashion-driven motifs to preppy plaids and director Manel Jadraque said bright watercolor print.

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FREE RETURNS ON ELIGIBLE ITEMS. 14 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 6, 2013 beauty WWD.COM A New Channel for Bobbi Brown and this channel is a great opportunity to go By JULIE NAUGHTON where the Millennials are playing.” The brand is considering retail partnerships cre- WITH HER NEWEST PROJECT, Bobbi Brown is ated around the channel, although nothing has been turning herself into a YouTube impresario with an inked. “We want to make sure this doesn’t come off as eye toward luring Millennials, with a lofty goal of a Bobbi Brown commercial,” said Case. The brand attracting 100 million Internet views in the next plans giveaways and other incentives to viewers. The store will be 450 square feet. 12 months. Programs on the channel will include “Grace’s Together with Collective Digital Studio and Multi- Faces,” Helbig’s show, which will do pop-in make- Channel Network, the makeup artist will launch I overs; “The Pretty Party,” which features the chan- Love Makeup, an online beauty channel on YouTube nel’s YouTube influencers doing various beauty Kilian Takes Manhattan on Monday. The channel will feature comedy, make- challenges, makeup demos and road testing prod- over and inspirational programs created in collabo- ucts like waterproof mascara and smudge-proof ration with popular YouTube personalities, includ- lipstick; “Haute Wheels,” which weekly will award By JENNIFER WEIL ing Grace Helbig, Weylie Hoang, Taryn Southern, a fan a custom makeover and makeup lesson — in Alexa Losey, Sophia Chang and Claire Marshall. a tricked-out “Haute Wheels” beauty mobile — to KILIAN HENNESSY has bottled up the Big Apple for his first Make no mistake: These videos won’t be non- get them ready for an upcoming event. There’s also freestanding store in Manhattan. stop commercials for Bobbi Brown Cosmetics — “Make Up and Go,” the channel’s signature “getting The 450-square-foot unit — slated to open in late November although there is a second channel in the works, ready with me” series which features the makeup at 804 Washington Street in the Meatpacking District — will tentatively slated to launch sometime in the next routines of different beauty gurus; “Say It with stock his brand’s new scent: Apple Brandy by Kilian New York. six months, which may be. In Makeup,” where artists includ- “It’s a bit of a wink to the Big Apple and cognac,” said fact, Brown noted, hers is not ing musicians, painters, design- Hennessy, referring to his family’s historic business. the only beauty brand that will ers and chefs will trade out the The boutique will have a look similar to the first Kilian loca- be used in the content being tools of their normal trades for tion, which opened last November in Moscow’s Crocus City Mall. created for I Love Makeup. a box of makeup and a bunch White walls, armchairs, a couch, a coffee table and an area Brown said this channel is of beauty tools; “Inspiration rug underscore “a living-room feel,” said Hennessy. “It’s warm intended to communicate with Nation,” intended to be an as- but with very clean lines. youthful consumers where they pirational spin on the standard “[However,] I wanted every store to have a bit of the feeling of live: online. It’s meant to aggre- makeup how-to, and “Beauty the location,” he added, explaining that in the New York shop, gate content across YouTube and Dos, Don’ts, and Duhs,” devoted some brick will remain exposed. other social media entities, such to quick fix-its and beauty basics. While Hennessy would not discuss sales projections, industry as Twitter, Facebook, Instagram, The channel’s cast of talent sources estimate the store could ring up $400,000 in its first 12 months. Pinterest and Tumblr to create a and Bobbi Brown makeup art- Apple Brandy is the first of a series of scents “in- multifaceted offering that adds ists will interact with viewers spired by the spirit, the essence of the city” where he opens a beauty-centric comedies and as- with pictures, videos, polls and boutique, Hennessy said.

pirational content as well as the STEPHEN SULLIVAN more throughout the week. The “We are probably going to open in Seoul by the end of the year,” more typical tutorial and make- Bobbi Brown channel is executive produced he explained, adding that in the first quarter of 2014, shop openings over programs that comprise by Davida Hall at Collective are expected in Dubai, Abu Dhabi and Doha in Qatar. “My goal is to PHOTO BY the great majority of beauty pro- Digital Studio. open 10 [freestanding stores] in the next three years.” gramming on YouTube. At least three shows a week “It’s refreshing to have a brand partner as These will likely be in cities such as Los Angeles, London will feature artists using Brown’s products, but the forward-thinking as Bobbi Brown,” said Reza and Paris. content will be free-form. “I’m not editing any of Izad, chief executive officer of Collective Digital “Ideally, I would love Dubai Duty Free,” he continued. these videos — these are real representations of Studio. “They understand the value in truly col- By Kilian today is sold in 200 doors worldwide, where what these bloggers are actually using,” she said. laborating with content creators and ensuring that Hennessy said it generally tops overall fragrance brands’ sales. “When we were looking online, I noticed that a lot the content is authentic. Our goal is simple and And the business keeps growing. By the end of August year-to- of artists were already using my products in their ambitious: to create a must-watch experience for date, By Kilian’s revenues were up 72 percent. videos, so this all evolved organically. And I learn everyone that loves makeup.” On a geographic basis, 30 percent of the label’s sales are gen- from them. It’s tremendously enlightening to hear Brown believes in digital marketing so strongly erated in the U.S., 30 percent in Europe (outside Russia), 20 per- their points of view. Bloggers have become very that she and her husband opened 18 Label Street, cent in Russia and 15 percent in the Middle East. important in the beauty world, especially with the an 8,000-square-foot studio complex, last year in By Kilian’s bestsellers are Good Girl Gone Bad; Forbidden increasingly influential younger consumer.” Montclair, N.J., where they live. “I was traveling so Games; Flower of Immortality; Straight to Heaven, White Added Maureen Case, president of Bobbi much to do shoots and QVC, and whenever we were Cristal, and Love, Don’t Be Shy. Brown, “The point of this is that it’s a radical shooting closer to home we had to find a crew and Industry sources estimate By Kilian will generate $50 million departure from the way beauty brands normally rent a studio in the city,” Brown said. “After awhile in retail sales for 2013. market products, and it’s a bit of a free fall in that we realized it would be smart to open our own.” Other upcoming projects include e-commerce in the U.S., sense. This isn’t about Bobbi preaching or about Brown said she uses the studio for her projects about which will launch officially next Thursday. product infomercials. These [bloggers] all have a five times a month, and at other times the facility is On Oct. 1, By Kilian will introduce the scent Playing with the very specific point of view on makeup and what- rented to others, including the Food Channel and Devil. Then, one month later, it will come out with the Shanghai ever floats to the top is what will run. Millennials even rival brand Clinique (“I wanted to jump in there 1920 limited edition, including a minaudière with one 50-ml. fra- don’t want to be marketed to. They want to do the with a white lab coat,” Brown said). She also did sat- grance (of which there is a choice of five) that retails in France discovering. YouTube allows us to experiment, ellite media tours for her last book from the studio. for 195 euros, or $256 at current exchange.

The R. Nichols Simplicity at Core of R. Nichols Candles Candles holiday line. R. Nichols made its debut at the New York International By BELISA SILVA Gift Fair in August 2012 with its first range of seven candles, including Mow, the scent of a freshly cut lawn. “My favorite SIMPLICITY IS ETERNAL. fragrance on the planet is the scent of fresh-cut grass,” said That is the motto of fragrance developer Gary McNatton, McNatton, whose love for the aroma inspired his Gap Grass who collaborated with illustrator R. Nichols Hanzlik on R. fragrance, launched in spring 1995. Nichols Candles, a home fragrance brand meant to evoke McNatton, who is not a fan of the traditional fra- happiness through uncomplicated product. grance pyramid structure, said his candles feature a lin- “In simplicity there is longevity,” said McNatton, co- ear scent construction. “I like a fragrance to start and JOHN AQUINO proprietor of R. Nichols and the force behind the pop- end in the same place,” he said, adding that Givaudan

ular line of Gap fragrances in the Nineties, including perfumer Stephen Nilsen created many of the scents. PHOTO BY Grass, Heaven and Dream. “Without bells and whistles, At the 2012 Gift Fair, the line was discovered by Oprah something can have a longer life, designwise.” Winfrey’s team, who selected it for her holiday “Favorite national distribution, namely Japan and Russia, McNatton McNatton said the idea for his new business, which Things.” “We had to keep the brand a secret until said he hopes to grow the business steadily, and expects was launched in 2012 in San Francisco, began in late 2011 Christmas,” said Hanzlik. In summer 2013, three new to be in about 220 doors by the same time next year. Room when he was feeling the holiday blues and happened upon candles were added: Bloom, an interpretation of budding sprays and body care are also being developed. Hanzlik’s illustrations in a stationery store. “I started smil- rose; Surf, a blend of salt air, bleached driftwood and sun- For each $45 soy-and-paraffin candle, McNatton and ing, and I said ‘That’s exactly what fragrance should do, shine, and Read, the scent of aged paper, ink and leather. Hanzlik imagine a theme, which is then interpreted into it should make you happy,’” said McNatton. “A fragrance Beginning on Sept. 16, R. Nichols will release its holiday a “paper mosaic” Hanzlik creates from colored construc- should be fun, it should be the best part of your business.” range of three winter-inspired candles, Sparkle, Glisten tion paper, scissors and a glue stick. The image is then For Hanzlik, R. Nichols cofounder and coproprietor, and Glow, as well as a Holiday Votive Trio set, priced at $68, turned into a decal, which is then fused onto the glass fla- who has spent the majority of his 17-year career illustrat- which includes mini versions of all three. “I have a million con. “When the candle burns, they appear to glow from ing stationery and books like “French Women Don’t Get ideas, but I want to keep it tightly edited,” said Hanzlik, within,” said Hanzlik, adding that the candles feature a Fat,” teaming with McNatton allowed for a new means who plans to add a couple of new candles per year. more-concentrated 12 to 15 percent fragrance oil. of creative expression. “I wanted to do something that is Sold in about 130 U.S. doors, primarily at Although the brand would not comment on finan- fresh, new and fun,” said Hanzlik, who has also designed Bloomingdale’s, as well as select U.K. doors, R. Nichols is cials, industry sources expect the line to generate about for Fresh, Space NK and Target. expanding, according to its founders. With eyes on inter- $1 million from Sept. 16 to the same time next year. TIBOLLI®, TRIOXXY® are trademarks of Van Tibolli Beauty S.à r.l. 16 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 6, 2013 beauty WWD.COM Valentino’s Night in Venice

for granted,” Chiuri said. “All constructed blend that put By CYNTHIA MARTENS Valentino these layers of history, blended greater emphasis on the rich, chief with the present — and there’s woody base notes. Ingredients VENICE — As the sun beat hotly executive also this relaxed way of living.” include spicy bergamot, myrtle, over this city’s winding streets officer “It’s a lived kind of beauty,” roasted coffee, gianduja cream, and salty canals, Valentino and Stefano added Piccioli. white leather and cedar. “The Puig celebrated the launch of Sassi. The commercial shows a gal- trick was to find the right bal- Valentino Uomo, a new men’s lant Garrel breezing through ance,” Polge said. fragrance that aims to channel the ancient city under canopied Distribution will kick off in the direction of the Italian fash- trees, strolling into aristocratic Europe, Russia and the Middle ion house’s men’s collections and palazzos and charming beau- East in early 2014, before reach- become a pillar in the industry. ties such as Caroline Brasch ing Asia in spring and Latin “We wanted to accompany and Maud Welzen, both of whom and North America by the end

the expansion of the men’s line, frequently appear in Valentino of the year or the start of 2015, Valentino designers MAESTRI DAVIDE to create a classic of tomorrow,” campaigns. hitting a total of about 16,000 Pierpaolo Piccioli and said José Manuel Albesa, chief Piccioli said the studs on doors, according to Albesa. He Maria Grazia Chiuri.

brand officer at Puig, adding the the perfume bottle’s otherwise would not discuss sales projec- PHOTOS BY eau de toilette would appeal to classic shape reflected the de- tions, but industry sources said men who “have a classic side, signers’ inclination to mix con- Valentino Uomo could reel new experience.’” but are very cool at the same trasting design elements: The in 75 to 80 million euros, His girlfriend, sultry Iranian time. It’s a customer who likes result is evocative of a flask of or about $98 million to actress Golshifteh Farahani, said good quality products and is fine liqueur. $105 million at current her Venice schedule left little very exacting.” Perfumer Olivier Polge, exchange, in its first time for tourism. “I’ve been here The fragrance’s face, French who is winding up his year on the shelf. for a week, and I’ll be here four actor Louis Garrel, was selected duties at International With the 70th or five more days,” she said. “I’ve to embody a “kind of modern- Piccioli said the new fragrance Flavors & Fragrances edition of the been here many, many times. day [Marcello] Mastroianni,” in was closely linked to Valentino before joining Chanel, Venice Film This time it’s a bit too much mov- the commercial shot by Johan fashion, and the choice of Rome said the fragrance es- Festival still under ies — I’m a judge, so I have to Renck and images by David as location for the campaign ce- chewed the traditional way, festivities watch a lot. But it’s beautiful.” Sims, Albesa said. mented the connection. “We have “top-heart-drydown” stretched into the Italian star Carolina Creative directors Maria the good fortune to live in a city pyramid structure in evening, when Crescentini agreed, noting, Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo where sometimes we take beauty favor of a less rigidly Chiuri and Piccioli “Venice is like a movie set; it’s hosted the exclu- enchanting.” Golshifteh Diane Marta sive Ballo Volpi, a “We’re here on vacation, not Farahani and Kruger Ferri The Uomo reprisal of the ball with the festival,” confessed Louis Garrel scent. created in 1932 and Diane Kruger, noting she and named for festival partner Joshua Jackson had founder Count Giuseppe Volpi been actively “hanging out at di Misurata. Held at the Count’s the pool drinking Bellinis.” former residence on the Canal Jackson added that upon his Grande against a backdrop of return to the U.S., he would roll wall-to-wall frescoes and ornate up his sleeves for a pilot project ceilings, the party featured a titled “The Affair.” performance by British band But while some guests waxed the Klaxons, with vocalist James poetic about Venice, others were Righton’s wife Keira Knightley more concerned with the im- cheering on the sidelines. pending arrival of fashion week. Garrel, as the fragrance’s “I’m going to stick to New face, was also in attendance. “At York and do Michael Kors on first, I didn’t know what to think the 11th and then go to Ibiza for [when asked to be Valentino’s my husband’s birthday party, fragrance testimonial],” he said. and then Milan,” said model “But the clothes they make, Karmen Pedaru, referring to I find them very elegant, and Riccardo Ruini. James Righton then they introduced me to the “Tonight’s my last night here,” and Keira director in charge of the com- said designer Marta Ferri. “Then Knightley mercial and we got along right I absolutely have to work, or I’ll away, and I thought, ‘Cool, a have an anxiety attack!” Living Proof Launching Multitasking Franchise needed the right delivery system.” try sources estimate Perfect Hair Day 5-in-1 Styling By BELISA SILVA The resulting formula took Living Proof ’s found- Treatment could generate $15 million in its first year. ing scientist, MIT professor Dr. Bob Langer and his “We’ve all read about the ‘skin-ification of hair,’” said PROBLEM-SOLUTION hair brand Living team two years to discover. According to Spengler, Ray. “The more knowledge about skin care migrates Proof, which has built a following based on most products that add sleekness to hair also give into hair care, [the more] demand for science.” targeting and reversing specific hair issues a flatter texture, while volumizing formulas do lit- According to Ray, the launch comes after Living like frizz and strand thinness, is aiming to tle in terms of imparting smoothness. The Styling Proof conducted research asking women what kind of be a bit more universal — and multitasking. Treatment, which aims to do both, also promises a product they want. The answer? A product that solves It’s newest offering, Perfect Hair Day 5-in-1 static control, a reduction in hair breakage and more than one problem at a time. Styling Treatment, unites a pair of exclusive both heat and UV protection. “If you look histori- “Marketers have created a lot of franchises to ad- Living Proof molecules for a dose of smooth- cally at the category, there have been attempts to dress specific problems,” she said. “There are a lot of ness and volume, two usually incompatible combine technologies that deliver conditioning women who have more than one problem and feel lost results. “It’s the first time we’ve been able to and hair health with those that deliver volume on what to choose. This is a strategic move to expand combine both of our proprietary molecules The PHD and body,” said Grace Ray, chief marketing officer. the portfolio and meet more consumers’ needs.” into one formula,” said Jill Beraud, chief ex- Styling “Those two ingredients cancel each other out. We To promote the launch, print advertising featuring ecutive officer of Living Proof. “We believe Treatment. were able to figure out how to create a compatible Living Proof co-owner Jennifer Aniston, who weighed that the PHD franchise will be one of our most formula to actually deliver a styling element to the in on product creation, will break in the first quarter of universally appealing products to date as it is a combina- [treatment] equation.” 2014 as will a digital marketing component and a large- tion of both treatment and styling benefits. The $26 item, which will be launched on Sunday ex- scale sampling initiative. “Working on the scent and The Styling Treatment features OFPMA, a mole- clusively at 650 Ulta and specialty salons in the U.S., packaging of Living Proof Perfect Hair Day was fun. I’ve cule utilized in Living Proof No Frizz and Restore for will be joined by a PHD Shampoo and Conditioner in always loved fragrance and had some experience when smoothness and shine, paired with PBAE, a hair-thick- January. The Styling Treatment, which will be sold launching my perfume,” Aniston told WWD via e-mail ening agent used in the brand’s Full franchise. “When on QVC next Friday, will enter 350 Sephora doors in “I’m looking forward to doing more product develop- we first saw these two molecules combined, we saw they January of next year. The entire three-piece collec- ment on launches going forward. I have a lot of ideas. As were nullified,” said Eric Spengler, Living Proof ’s se- tion will roll out to about 1,000 total doors in March. much as I love science, I am going to leave the lab work nior vice president of research and development. “We Although the brand would not talk numbers, indus- to the team from MIT.”

18 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 6, 2013

CEWnewsmaKeR beauty ForUM Pharmaca Does It Naturally NEW YORK — Pharmaca, dubbed the Whole free mini-makeover with the purchase of $100 of Foods of the pharmacy business, is proving natural cosmetics or facial-care products. beauty can be glamorous. “The Natural Beauty Bars are a logical exten- Pharmaca is one step ahead of traditional re- sion of our practitioners’ talents and expertise tailers such as Walgreens and Ulta who are add- and a way to offer our customers a more conve- WHat doEs a ing more natural and upscale beauty products. nient, comprehensive beauty experience,” said The opening of five new Natural Beauty Bars il- Pharmaca health and beauty category manager lustrates the Boulder, Colo.-based retailer’s com- Tiana Ukleja. Ukleja said the Natural Beauty Bar Ceo Know mitment to natural beauty in an elegant setting concept meets rising customer demand for waxing with wood fixturing, LED lighting and cosmetic services that and professional services. use salon-quality skin care that you don’t? Premium brands stocked in- and makeup. “These are clude Jane Iredale, Dr. Hauschka, CRITICAL services that women used Evanhealy and Suki. Professional MASS salon hair brands include Peter Lamas, John Masters Organics and BY FAYE BROOKMAN Strategies for Profitability: MOP (Modern Organic Products). The first Pharmaca store opened miChael gould in 2000, merging traditional pharmacy with holistic medicine. It was the first integrated pharmacy in the U.S. “We have homeopaths, naturopathic and heidi manheimeR osteopathic doctors, herbalists, aestheticians, nutri- tionists, and ayurvedic practitioners,” said company president and chief executive officer Mark Panzer earlier this year. “That’s what differentiates us.” & Pharmaca’s approach is proving popular with Americans looking to take charge of their own A Natural Beauty Bar. health and buy more natural goods. Company sales at Pharmaca are estimated to exceed $100 million. While units range in size, the average 4,200-square- to have to go elsewhere for,” she said. “We hope foot store pumps out $4 million in sales — roughly 4 that they’ll take advantage of being able to pick up percent in beauty, industry sources estimated. their favorite beauty products and get a brow wax, With a goal of duplicating the apothecaries all in one spot.” popular in Europe, Pharmaca delved into upscale Pharmaca’s size enables merchants to be natural items in 2012 with a beauty bar in Pacific nimble and act swiftly to test new brands. For Palisades, Calif. Based on the success of that test, example, Pharmaca was the first to bring organic Pharmaca unveiled five new beauty bars last month facial-care line Primavera to the U.S. market. The in Brentwood, Menlo Park, Novato and Oakland, company said that although fragrance is not a big Calif., and Portland, Ore. push, its merchants are on the prowl for new skin- The stores mix the premium products with care and sun-care lines. salon-quality services with aestheticians. There Despite holistic positioning, Pharmaca uses all are free skin-care and color-matching consulta- the traditional marketing tools including back-to- tions. Spa services include lash application, full school promotions, a loyalty program and an on- Michael gould - Chairman and CEo, facial makeovers and consultations, eye makeup line presence. That’s no surprise since Panzer’s BlooMiNgdalE’s applications and consultations, and waxing for background is in traditional mass retailing with brows, lip, chin, forehead, sideburns or full face. experience at Rite Aid, Osco Drug, American and To promote the new services, Pharmaca offers a Albertson’s. IOMA Fills In Skin-Care Brand’s Map

He will take another step in that direc- By PETE BORN tion next week with the U.S. launch of IOMA Youth Booster, a $220, 1.7-oz. antiaging cream JEAN MICHEL KARAM is a man on the move. that is packaged with a portable electric mi- Since founding his IOMA skin-care brand crosensor device that allows a user to mea- in 2010, he has built a distribution network sure whether her skin has the proper level of that is centered on Europe and stretches hydration. The skin-care product is designed across the U.S. Now, Karam is reaching out to moisturize, detoxify and regenerate skin to Asia while filling some holes at home. cells while provide protection from UVA and IOMA will enter its first department UVB rays. The microelectromechanical sys- store in Singapore in October, then fol- tems sensors housed in the of the bottle low up by entering six more stores by next are a portable version of the diagnostic ma- April. He plans on revealing the names of chines that Karam has designed to be used in Heidi Manheimer stores at a press conference scheduled for retail installations. Those large, store-bound Sept. 18 in Singapore. Likewise, distribu- machines are designed to use high-resolution Chief Executive officer, tion will be expanded to a department store imaging to diagnose the condition of skin on in Indonesia in December or January. The seven criteria ranging from moisturization, sHisEido CosMEtiCs aMEriCa brand is expected to follow up by adding redness, UV damage and bacterial buildup to three more doors in the island country. Back clogged pores and wrinkles. The basic IOMA in Europe, Karam said he plans to open in skin-care brand consists of seven products 25 Marionnaud perfumeries in Switzerland. geared to tackle specific problems of dry skin thuRsday, septembeR 19, 2013 The launch date is set for Feb. 14. JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY and UV damage, fine lines, wrinkles and lack The brand also will enter the lucrative The Youth of firmness, redness, bacterial infections, Harmonie Club / NYC travel retail business by the end of this year, Booster. shine on oily skin and dark spots. There also when Karam said he plans his first airport is a body-care line and a bespoke collection. 5:30pm Networking + Cocktails shop. Next year, he is expected to orchestrate the Executives declined to discuss figures. But in- opening of freestanding shops in India and enter dustry sources calculate that in the first year that department stores in Hong Kong in the first half of Youth Booster is on counter in the six Saks stores 6:30 - 7:30pm Program the year. Karam also is said to be scouting locations in the U.S., the whole IOMA line will be generat- in New York to open a freestanding store next year. ing $2 million annually. IOMA, which is the reverse of the French “ a moi” In France, where IOMA is sold in 520 (“to me”), entered the U.S. from Europe in 2011 by Marionnaud and Beauty Success perfumeries, setting up shop in Saks Fifth Avenue in New York the business is approaching $10 million at re- RegisteR now and in Beverly Hills. The company has since entered tail this year, according to industry estimates. In four more Saks doors in Houston and San Antonio, Spain, the brand is carried by 100 luxury health and Tulsa, Okla., to give the brand a foothold in mid- and beauty stores. Harrods sells it in the U.K., dle America, Karam noted. The fourth Saks door is and the brand is distributed in 64 Marionnaud in South Coast Plaza in Costa Mesa, Calif. perfumeries in Austria. A total of 92 ICI Paris per- Karam described the year-and-a-half rollout in fumeries carry IOMA in Belgium, Luxembourg, CEW.org the U.S. as a year-and-a-half laboratory “to get the the Netherlands and Germany. In the Ukraine, six formula right.” Bomonde perfumeries carry the brand. WWD friday, september 6, 2013 19 WWD.COM Dannijo Launches Handbags Letter Alleges Runway Racism er, water snake and African print on runway shows, the group consistently pro- By ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD cotton also add tactile and visual By ROSEMARY FEITELBERG motes diversity, he said. texture, Danielle noted. Pointing out that the letter did not provide an TO MARK its five-year anniversary, “The materials and hardware ThE DIvERSITY COALITION, led by activist e-mail, phone number or Web site, Kolb said, “If Dannijo, the New York-based trendy will jump out to our cult following,” and former model Bethann hardison, sent let- the coalition, Bethann or whoever feels the mes- jewelry line, is veering into new terri- she said, explaining that the use ters Thursday to respective governing bodies sage needs to be stronger, then we are happy to tory with its first handbag collection. of color will also resonate with the of fashion weeks in New York, London, Milan meet and to be part of that discussion.” Set to make its debut Monday at brand’s consumer. and Paris alleging racism on the runways. Didier Grumbach, president of the Chambre its presentation during New York “We started making jewelry, but The Council of Fashion Designers of America, Syndicale, which organizes fashion week in Fashion Week, the Italian-made bag these are the bags we want to wear,” the British Fashion Council, the Fédération Paris, said he was puzzled by the letter and collection includes three clutches, a Jodie offered. “The same DNA Française de la Couture and the Camera found the charge of racism “unreasonable.” day bag, two cross-bodies, a tote and that runs through the jewelry runs Nazionale della Moda Italiana each received an he pointed out that at the next session of run- a pouch. Each style comprises three through the bags.” unsigned letter that included the claim. way shows in the French capital, scheduled for to four colorways, and ranges from According to the sisters, business “Eyes are on an industry that season after Sept. 24 to Oct. 2, designers of 22 nationalities black and light blue to red and dune. has grown approximately 60 per- season watches design houses consistently from five continents are participating across “Danielle [Snyder] and I cent in the past 12 months. Today, use one or no models of color. No matter the some 100 shows. French couturiers including felt that over the five years, Dannijo is a “profitable, worldwide intention, the result is racism,” the letter Emanuel Ungaro were pioneers in using women we’ve built a jewelry multimillion-dollar business.” states. “Not accepting another based on the of color on the high-fashion runway, he added. brand with a great On average, the com- color of their skin is clearly beyond ‘aesthet- Reached for comment Thursday, Mario audience,” said pany has had annual ic’ when it is consistent with the designer’s Boselli, head of the Italian Chamber of Jodie Snyder, the growth of at least brand. Whether it’s the decision of the de- Fashion, said, “The Camera della Moda has al- brand’s co- 50 percent, and signer, stylist or casting director, that deci- ways allowed its members complete freedom to founder, who it is projecting sion to use basically all white models, reveals decide autonomously. As the Camera avoids all said fashion Bags from sales to double a trait that is unbecoming to modern society. discriminations, it suggests to fashion compa- week showgoers Dannijo’s after the intro- It can no longer be accepted, nor confused by nies to avoid discrimination, but it can’t impose would glimpse just a new line. duction of the the use of the Asian model.” anything. The Camera has taken action against small portion of the bag handbag line. Each individual unsigned letter lists “fash- showing models that are too young or too slim offering Monday. “Our main Next for Dannijo, ion houses guilty of this racist act.” The CFDA on the runway, in an antianorexia effort, and focus has been the jewelry. We which still makes its jewelry received one with 19 women’s designer labels penalizes those companies that are found at want to accessorize our customer.” in New York, is a store in its home- and seven men’s wear designers. The French fault, but has never [deliberated] on skin color.” The collection, which will retail town, but those plans are still in flux. letter cites 23 labels for women and 21 labels Natalie Massenet, the recipient of the from $495 to $1,295, was self-financed More immediate is growing the for men. The Camera was sent a letter singling BFC letter, was traveling Thursday and was by Jodie and her sister, cofounder handbag business, the Snyders out 14 women’s wear companies and 17 men’s unable to comment. Danielle, who added that the new cat- said, noting that the product will wear labels. The BFC’s letter lists seven wom- hardison plans to host a town hall-type egory pays homage to Dannijo’s color- hit stores in February. In order to en’s companies and seven men’s wear labels. discussion in New York at the end of October ful, modern jewelry collection. celebrate the launch, the brand The CFDA’s Steven Kolb said he and the to further the discussion. By using pieces from its jewelry will debut a viral social media cam- group’s president, Diane von Furstenberg, “The point of this letter is that everyone collection, including its signature paign, which will include Instagram. discussed the letter during a 6 a.m. phone should be discussing this — I mean every- bib , Swarovski Elements “The brand has organically call Thursday. he noted that in the past one,” hardison said. “It’s like the MTA. If you and chains, the duo said it has cre- grown,” Jodie said. “We’ve hesitated two weeks, the CFDA sent two different e- see something, say something. Well, I’m say- ated a textured look that refers to taking on any investors up until now. mails — one to industry influencers and an- ing something.” its layered, edgy baubles. It’s a huge investment to launch a other to CFDA members — that encouraged — With contributions from Mixed materials such as denim, new category, but we really feel this diversity. While it is not the CFDA’s place miles socha, Paris; luisa Zargani, mesh, floral lace, smooth calf leath- will expand our brand.” to tell members whom they should cast for milan, and samantha conti, london

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w06a019b;12.indd 19 9/5/13 8:48 PM 09052013204859 20 WWD friday, september 6, 2013 Temperley London Taps New CEO Richie Hosts Style Awards the brand currently has three col- so if you guys don’t get it, By samaNtHa CoNti lections: temperley london, which will By RosemaRy then you guys are very late,” show on sept. 15 during london Fashion FeitelbeRg she said. “are you guys down loNDoN — Ulrik garde Due has Week; a second line called alice by with my [tom Ford] ? i’m been named chief executive officer of temperley, and a bridal collection. NeW yoRK — maybe it was like totally down.” temperley london, WWD has learned. the designer also has a line called all the cue cards, the pre- During lags in the taping, an announcement is expected today. somerset, which sells exclusively show clapping lessons or the comedian sherrod small garde Due was formerly ceo of georg through british retailer John lewis. the lincoln Center setting, but was brought on stage to try Jensen, which was sold to investcorp last label has a flagship on london’s bruton somehow Wednesday night’s to warm up the crowd. try year for $140 million. before that, he was street and stores in los angeles, Qatar style awards fell flat. being the operative word; a senior vice president at burberry, part and Dubai. Wholesale accounts include sure, there were at one point he pretty much of the team led by Rose bergdorf goodman and ViPs like Nicole Richie, berated Upton about what marie bravo that kick- Neiman marcus Direct Kate Upton, Patrick she would do for a day with started the brand’s re- and saks Direct. Demarchelier, Frédéric a man’s most-valued ana- launch and took it public garde Due replaces Fekkai, maria sharapova tomical weapon. “i’m all set in 2002. lars von bennigsen, and Christie brinkley. and with all my lady parts,” said in an interview, garde alice temperley’s hus- italo Zucchelli, amar’e Upton, this year’s model of Due said he took the band, who had served stoudemire and Public the year. temperley job because as ceo since the couple school’s Dao-yi Chow and a dancing anna of the label’s potential founded the company maxwell osborne did what Cleveland helped Zac for growth. in 2000. Von bennigsen they could to up the cool Posen pick up the Women’s “there is so much op- remains a member of quotient. after catching faint Designer of the year award, portunity: alice is a star. the board. traces of ariana grande’s and “true blood’s” Joe you can see her creativ- temperley said, “it backstage warm-up while manganiello handed the first ity, she’s young and quite Ulrik was time to bring in the 10 awards were present- men’s Designer of the year unique,” he said, adding Garde Due someone to take us to the ed, the crowd piped up when Nicole award to John Varvatos, that the plan is to position next stages and to help us she sang “tattooed Heart.” Richie who thanked “his big men- temperley as a lifestyle better focus our efforts.” all in all, though, the JIMI CELESTE PHOTOS BY tor” Ralph lauren, among brand with new product categories, part- as part of the overall upgrading of fashion week curtain-raising others. “mad men’s” Jessica nerships and beefed-up distribution. the business, temperley said that her festivities seemed a little too Maria Pare earnestly presented “We need a more commercial mind- Notting Hill headquarters — where the self-made. Victoria’s secret Sharapova the tV Costume Designer of set, with more range planning, and we bridal salon is located — is undergoing model lily aldridge present- the year award to the show’s need to build volume,” he said, adding renovation to look more like her bruton ed the most Visible brand Janie bryant. other awards that it was too early to give any specific street flagship. award to Victoria’s secret. went to stylist of the year details about the company’s strategy. He “the whole place has been stripped this year’s most stylish Rachel Zoe; Hairstylist of said the U.s., Continental europe and back: it’s more polished and chic. and athlete, Victor Cruz of the the year Fekkai; Costume southeast asia were among the regions there will be much more synergy with New york giants, scored big Designer of the year for where the brand was looking to expand. this store,” she said, referring to the with product placement in Film trish summerville, and garde Due also said that he would seek georgian building that’s filled with an- his fast-talking acceptance Photographer of the year to strengthen the bond between online and tiques hand-picked by the designer and speech, deftly thanking 25 Demarchelier. in honoring offline sales. in July, temperley relaunched art Deco style clothing rails and fixtures. brands and people, including Upton, brinkley insisted its Web site, and the designer said that sales the Notting Hill building will reopen Calvin Klein inc., michael there “simply aren’t enough are growing 100 percent month-on-month. in october. bastian, graydon Carter, superlatives” to define the annie leibovitz and his spon- sports illustrated sors img and Nike. even the issue cover girl. event’s likeable host Richie Upton offered a different appeared to overreach, view of her signature style, changing four times in what “i’m only 21 years old and i’ve will amount to an hour-long been on all seven continents. show on CNN on sept. 14. Unbelievable, i know, right? RUNWAY “ are very in right now, and in a on all seven.” Bangladesh Minister Talks Safety

RIGHT AWAY {Continued from page one} road map, saying let’s work together so Runway Service utilizes WWD’s she noted that building codes and that this suspension can be withdrawn unparalleled access to provide safety have been ignored for years as the as soon as possible and we can have the country dealt with atrocities and cor- gsP facility back.” comprehensive Fashion Week ruption stemming from the bangladesh the U.s. outlined an action plan in photos within 24 hours of each liberation War in 1971. mid-July that bangladesh needs to take show. Available for pre-order, “as a result, we have now ended up to have its trade benefits restored. the designer and brand photo with probably a lot of buildings which do moni noted that the gsP ben- galleries include imagery from not conform to our building codes and as efits cover only a small portion of the runways, the front row a result are unsafe,” moni said. “so this bangladesh’s exports to the U.s. the is a much larger issue, a much larger country’s apparel exports are not part and backstage, all cleared for problem than just a few factories.” of the gsP program and do not receive unlimited editorial usage. several initiatives are under way duty-free treatment. that will improve the garment indus- “the gsP in the U.s. covers only .05 try, moni said, pointing to the National percent or less of our exports to the U.s. tripartite Plan of action on Fire safety market,” moni said. “We think it’s impor- for the Ready-made garment sector in tant, but it’s also important that we get bangladesh, which the international duty-free, quota-free access to the U.s. labor organization is coordinating with market [for apparel]. that would mean employers, labor and the government. that for the [apparel] export figure of there also are two separate industry about $4 billion, our products would not plans for bangladesh building and safe- have to be levied [duties].” ty involving scores of european retailers she said the U.s. imposes duties of and brands and, separately, a scheme about $700 million on bangladesh’s launched by a group of North american apparel exports. retailers and brands. “if that is not levied, then at least a “so we have undertaken this huge part of it can go to benefit these work- activity now with the industry to iden- ers who are largely poor women in tify each and every unsafe building.… bangladesh,” moni said. at the same time, we have undertaken a government wage board could soon to increase the number of inspectors, make recommendations on a minimum building inspectors, factory inspectors, wage increase for the garment sector, fire inspectors. We have also enhanced she added. the current minimum wage the capacity of our fire brigade. so it’s is $38 a month, and workers have staged a multipronged effort that we are now numerous protests in bangladesh de- going through,” she said. manding better salaries. Directly addressing the U.s. suspen- “i believe they will come back very sion of duty-free benefits under the soon with their recommendations, and generalized system of Preferences, we are already discussing this with fairchildphotoservice.com | 866.686.2106 | [email protected] moni said the bangladesh government labor leaders and employers as well,” is “happy the U.s. has come up with a she said.

w06a020a;9.indd 1 9/5/13 8:09 PM 09052013201106 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 6, 2013 21 WWD.COM Destination Maternity Trials New Formats as Jessica Simpson. From a price per- By DAVID MOIN spective, Motherhood is at the moder- ate end, Pea in the Pod has what’s de- DESTINATION MATERNITY CORP. is scribed as contemporary pricing, while bullish on its superstores. Pea in the Pod’s designer collections The $540 million maternity chain has are the top of the range. 32 superstores operating, projects at Every five to 10 years, specialty retail- least 50 in the U.S. and has just bred two ers tend to test a prototype format to up- prototypes. They’re not twins. date their fleets. Destination Maternity A 7,700-square-foot remodeled unit has taken the unusual approach of test- in Paramus, N.J., marked by a central ing two at the same time. “One of the “town square” for fitting rooms, a bar, main reasons we did this is because we checkout and a communal vibe, as well have stores of very different sizes in our as a learning center for educational and overall portfolio. There may be different fitness classes for expecting moms and elements in these prototypes that work in new moms, marks its reopening Saturday. different-sized stores,” Krell explained. It’s located at 65 Route 4 West, across Testing new concepts and formats in- from Paramus Park Mall. fluences future design plans and remod- A 5,000-square-foot superstore, built els, whether it’s superstores or single from scratch, opened Aug. 29 in The brand units. But opening more super- Town Center of Virginia Beach, Va. It has stores is a priority. “It’s much more effi- a deconstructed “discovery” floor plan cient and cheaper to operate one larger that is less directed compared with the store off the mall, than to operate mul- usual racetrack layout and offers exten- tiple single-brand stores in malls with sive premium denim and a designated higher rents and common area mainte- space for nursing essentials. nance costs,” Krell said. Both prototypes have differentiated In the Virginia Beach superstore, Inside the Virginia Beach superstore. “lifestyle zones” for work, casual, sleep, “there’s no clear beginning or end,” intimates and nursing essentials, larger Daniel said, meaning shoppers can take graphics, more mannequins and en- hanced fitting rooms. Destination Maternity is testing two “When a pregnant woman walks into superstore prototypes, including this one of our stores, she has so many dif- one in Paramus, N.J. ferent needs. For one thing, her clothes no longer fit. So the concept is to create a store environment that lets her see the breadth of assortment and the key fashion and key outfitting ideas,” said Ed Krell, the chief executive officer of Destination Maternity Corp. “She’s really looking for informa- tion in addition to fashion,” said Chris Daniel, president, noting that many of his customers are women who are pregnant for the first time and shop- ping maternity for the first time. “We are trying to give her a style message, answer her questions and do it in a The superstores have play way that’s fun for her.” areas and flat-screen TVs, for The corporation is considered the those not engaged in shopping. largest maternity apparel retailer in the world. In addition to the Destination Maternity stores, averaging 4,150 square different routes to explore the store. have a store on Madison Avenue and in across casual, weekend and feet, the company operates Motherhood “ Yo u see all the denim, low- to high- Virginia Beach as well? It’s an eclectic . That’s where selling assis- Maternity stores, averaging 1,800 square priced, in a denim world, then you can real estate profile.” tance is critical,” Nisch said. feet, and Pea in the Pod, at 2,000 square move into an active world, then intimates While the two prototypes have mer- So is designing and constructing the feet on average. The company has 605 re- and wear-to-work. The cash is to chandising and navigational differences, store to meet the special needs of preg- tail stores and 1,298 leased shops. There the side, but customers can go which- both are “very consumer-centric” from a nant women. “The air conditioning and are a total of 3,200 locations, including ever way they want. There are fewer standpoint of service, fitting rooms and air flow have to be stepped up,” Nisch stores, leased shops and Kohl’s fran- straight lines.” The Paramus superstore, including areas that help keep spouses noted. “Our fitting rooms are 30 to 40 per- chised locations. he added, is “a little bit more traditional, and children occupied — play space, cent larger than typical fitting rooms,” The superstores range from 5,000 with its key center area.” juice bars and seating areas with flat- with forms for the clothing so customers to 10,000 square feet, with the largest “This is not a typical chain,” said screen TVs. Customer service has been can get an idea on sizes and fits months on Madison Avenue in New York, and Kenneth Nisch, chairman of JGA, beefed up for both superstores. “In later into their pregnancies. In addition, sell merchandise from the Motherhood the retail design and brand strategy many cases, it’s a new shopping experi- “The lighting on the mirrors [projects] Maternity and Pea in the Pod trade firm that worked on the new designs. ence for the customer, so giving advice forward, rather than overhead,” Nisch names, as well as licensed designer and “Destination Maternity is such a collec- is critical. They don’t have a lot of this said. “That helps women see the gar- celebrity maternity collections, such tion of stores. How many retailers would product. They are looking to build a ments better. There’s less shadow.”

will also offer her the experience and slated to launch this fall but was and done over the course of the year. service that she has come to expect, postponed in June until early 2014 It was more like a hobby, like putting MEMO PAD turning inspiration from the page into in order to introduce a mobile brand together a scrapbook. It’s obviously not a accessibility within seconds.” platform, which was originally set to novel,” Chung told WWD. AND THE NAME IS...: The first consumer It will be published six times a launch in 2014. However, the company, She admitted writing most of the magazine from Net-a-porter’s new year, and have a global distribution which is owned by Compagnie book wearing a One Direction publishing division will be called Porter. at newsstands and via subscription. Financière Richemont SA, brought and, while she didn’t have Microsoft According to the company, Porter Its 300 pages will be transactional via the launch date forward because it Word, she ended up writing the will be “for and about women with great mobile phone and via an app, built in- wanted to be first to market with the bulk of it through e-mail and on bar style,” bringing together editors, writers, house. The cover price has not been new app, which will be introduced in napkins. “A lot of it was written on stylists and photographers who will revealed, but the publication will launch the near future. — JULIA NEEL bar napkins because I would set aside be led by editor in chief Lucy Yeomans, in February 2014. Content is being a Sunday to write but then I’d end formerly of Harper’s Bazaar U.K. produced by a dedicated team, with STYLISH SCRAPBOOK: “I don’t think it up rebelling against it and wanting “The name Porter has a strength, contributions from Net-a-porter’s free, could have been ghostwritten, it’s to hang out with friends, so I’d meet wit, elegance and intelligence that weekly online magazine called The Edit, so bizarre,” said Alexa Chung, at the them to play pool and then I said ‘OK, speaks perfectly to the modern female the sister title of Porter. launch of her first book, “It,” at Liberty everyone has to brainstorm about audience and yet it has a timelessness Tess MacLeod-Smith, vice president in London on Wednesday. The 192- things for a minute’ and then we’ll to it that feels as if it could have existed of publishing and media at Net-a- page book, published by Penguin, is write down some notes.” for decades,” said Yeomans, describing porter, said, “The magazine will have a hodgepodge of her personal photos, The DJ, model and “Fuse News” the Porter woman as “strong, stylish, the power to reach the most affluent drawings, random thoughts and advice. presenter, who recently inked a deal intelligent and adventurous.” and proactive fashion consumer base Creating the book was “like an with cosmetics brand Eyeko, was She added that her role, as editor, in the world via Net-a-porter’s global extended trip down memory lane” for greeted at Liberty by 200 fans wanting is to “seduce, satisfy and serve” her audience of over 6 million monthly Chung, who flew back to England and her to sign copies of the book, which readers, adding that “the power, unique visitors and customers.” spent a few days trawling through old retails for 16.99 pounds, or $25.70. expertise and reach of Net-a-porter The publication was originally photographs in her attic. “It was gradual — LORELEI MARFIL 22 WWD friday, september 6, 2013

“Wait behind the barricades,” a grouchy security guard snarled to the crush of eager Millennials bellying up to the door. For more photos, see The booming bass from inside the party caused the sidewalk to rumble under their WWD.com/eye. Viable feet. Reece Solomon and Max Stein weaved through the bedlam toward the entrance. Andie Arthur snailed her way down the line. “It’s 10:30 and I’m done working for the night so it’s time to have some fun,” the model demurred. Inside, the vague Vibes but distinct stench of marijuana floated A RABBLE of assorted editors, front-row through the air. Concertgoers inched their favorites and Kendrick Lamar fans congested way toward the stage awaiting Lamar. Manhattan’s 14th street outside Milk “Tonight, guys,” Jenne Lombardo told the Studios Wednesday night for a Made- and crowd before introducing the rapper. “This Jawbone-sponsored affair in honor of the is your night.” Toward the back, Rebecca start of fashion week headlined by the Dayan got grooving, spinning in a cloud of Compton, Calif. rapper. smoke. “I may skip the whole thing and Kendrick Lamar just go to L.A.,” the actress said, sweeping strands of hair from her face, when asked Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow of her fashion week itinerary. “It’s just too much.” Alana Zimmer, Lindsey Wixson and Max Osterweis bobbed along with the crowd, ichner e shouting the lyrics to “Bitch, Don’t Kill e My Vibe” under darting blue lights. Soon V

Lamar made it rain, tossing wads of $100 Ste by

bills over the masses. Chelsea Leyland tucked S one bill under her head . Public School duo Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne maintained a safe berth from the fracas, holing up in the back. “This is the result of working 12-hour days,” Chow said. “We get all other nyc.com; a to come out and have some f--king fun.” F b / Earlier in the evening, a few blocks east, S mu

a largely accessories editor crowd gathered S a r at Maison O’s Stardust Lounge in SoHo, eil n where Editorialist cofounders Kate Davidson Hudson and Stefania Allen threw a bash to

celebrate the launch of their new editorial- hoto by meets-e-commerce venture. Kate Davidson Hudson and Monique Pean Lindsey Wixson P

—taYLOrHarrIS Pean Raw Food PERCHED ON a promontory off of Tuscany, the five-star Hotel Il Pellicano has long ranked as one of the fashion world’s most glamorous getaway spots. The breathtaking setting is one of the draws, of course, but the hotel’s cuisine is equally famous. Now the food gets its very own book, “Eating at the Hotel Il Pellicano,” (Violette Editions), with food by head chef Antonio Guida, words by Will Self and photos by Juergen Teller, making his first foray into food photography. The lush cookbook combines Teller’s Chocolate tart with tonka beans, Chef Antonio Guida, center, and his kitchen eye unmistakable visual style with the hazelnut biscuits and cherry ice cream. staff at Hotel Il Pellicano in 2009. spectacular gastronomical exploits of the two-Michelin-star-chef Guida. The

cookbook, which is equally at home WWD: How did you come to shoot the were so excited about being together, perfect — let’s say ice cream, which eller t in the photography section, will be legendary hotel? Marie Louise said, “Oh my God — we’ve starts to melt very quickly. Some things celebrated during New York Fashion Juergen Teller: In 2009, Marie Louise Sció, got to do something else together! Let’s in the photos are a little bit uneven, and

Week at a dinner at Casa Lever with whose family owns Il Pellicano, came to do a cookbook!” But the cookbook not always perfect. Instead of dry, sort Juergen by

dishes prepared by Guida as well as me with a strange request to photograph took a lot longer than photographing a of abstract shots, I wanted to have those S signature Pellicano cocktails, like her hotel. And I thought, what a bizarre party in the hotel, because it was more imperfections in the photos, because the Pelican Martini and The Teller. idea, to photograph a tacky hotel — not complicated to organize. For example, that’s how the food really looks. WWD caught up with Teller in London knowing anything about Il Pellicano. Antonio [Guida] wanted to have certain to discuss the book and his culinary Marie Louise referenced so many autumn dishes included in the book: wild WWD: This is as much a photography 2013; all other experiences at the paradisal hotel. photographs of mine, and had such a boar, and sea bass, all that palaver, so I book as a cookbook. S  —KarenMarta clear vision of who I am, I thought, this had to go back three times in September J.T.: Most cookbooks are oriented dition e can’t go wrong. So I took a and October. And if the chef wasn’t happy vertically, in order to take up less space The terrace at Hotel Il chance. I told her that my with how he presented a dish, we had to on a kitchen counter. But for me, when Pellicano as seen in 1964. wife would be at Art Basel start all over. It was incredible fun! You you sit at a table, with a round plate, and and I would be with my son just sit around all day long, and then you your knife and fork and wine on Violette and asked if I could bring photograph his amazing creations. the side, everything you look down on hed by him and my nanny, since I is horizontal. When you eat you don’t S ubli

would be working. She was WWD: And at the end, you got to eat the have an upright vision of your food. So P extremely hospitable, and food? the first thing that struck me was I have we got on very well and I J.T.: Well, some dishes we couldn’t eat, to do a horizontal book, and I had to do became very close friends because of the way they were preserved. horizontal pictures because that’s the Pellicano” l with her family. I really Sometimes things you would eat warm real experience you have when you eat. i

like her dad, and her sister had to be chilled, because if they were otel h and her two brothers. But I warm they would run and melt. But of WWD: Do you cook? probably know the bartender course, there was always something you J.T.: I do. I cook from Marcella Hazan, the

the best. It was a very, very would have to try. Italian cook. I do a good spaghetti alle ating at e “

enjoyable experience. vongole, but my wife is a much better cook e P WWD: Did you work with a food stylist? than I am. I wouldn’t want to try to cook WWD: You got along so well J.T.: Are you kidding? No. any of the dishes in this book myself.

that you found another John Swo project that took you back WWD: Did you plan how to shoot each dish? WWD: What is your favorite dish at Hotel to the hotel? Why did this J.T.: Well, I just shot each dish the way Il Pellicano?

project take so long? you would see it when you walk up to J.T.: Oh my god, the caramel tobacco ice Photo by

J.T.: We got along so well and the table. Some things aren’t really cream — it’s amazing. 1964

w06a022a;8.indd 22 9/5/13 7:18 PM 09052013191942 WWD friday, september 6, 2013 23 WWD.COM Joan “We would love at some Rivers been] looking at her point to do baby clothes in terms of fashion, with Lily,” said Velvet she was making best- Fashion scoops codesigner Toni Spencer. dressed lists, and it Added codesigner Jenny all went to hell in a DVF’S FRIENDS & FAMILY: After her get so many ideas. I’m in SoHo right Graham: “Dixie’s the perfect handbag, all from one show Sunday, Diane von Furstenberg will now. I see so many incredibly dressed model.” — KHANH T.L. TRAN show.” Joan provided celebrate with her husband Barry Diller, people, whether it’s young kids or older some advice for young Jessica Alba, Allison Williams, Brittany Snow, women.” POLICE FORCE: Benefit attention-seeking André Balazs, Andy Cohen, Nadja Swarovski, The 18 pieces in the sophomore Cosmetics toasted the starlets, or “sluts,” Carine Roitfeld and scores more. Guests collection retailing from $50 to $200 start of New York Fashion as she called them. will be among the first to check out reflect Aldridge’s California roots and Week with a cocktail “Don’t go commando the new High Line headquarters, New York career mixed with Nashville’s party Wednesday night if you are wearing which the Friends of the High Line music scene, a glam-yet-down-to-earth celebrating strong-minded short short shorts,” recently renamed the Diller — von lifestyle she personifies with women and mused Joan Rivers, Furstenberg Building due to the couple’s her rocker husband, Kings For more the two-year in Stella McCartney philanthropy. of Leon’s Caleb Followill. She scoops, see anniversary of and Joan Rivers The band Wardell will help break designed a shrunken denim its best-selling Classics Collection in the Renzo Piano- and Beyer Blinder jacket in a worn-in blue, a WWD.com They’re Real jewelry, who also Belle-designed building. Sasha and black short romper and other Mascara. The made mention of her Theo Spielberg are the sister-brother duo comfortable, effortless pieces honorees, go-to beauty secret, behind Wardell. They presumably can awash in coral, green and white. The selected by Benefit “formaldehyde.” navigate any darkroom, since their sellout status of a military-inspired executives and the E When asked which father is the director Steven Spielberg. The jacket from the spring 2013 collection Fashion Police team, man, living or dead, siblings’ debut release spurred Aldridge to included Ashley Tisdale in could get Rivers back is aptly named “The spruce up the style in a Alice + Olivia; Chrissy Teigen on the dating scene, Brother/Sister EP.” faded leopard print. in Vera Wang; Jodie and Danielle Snyder she responded without hesitation, — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG Based on the strong of Dannijo, in Proenza Schouler and a “Moses. I love a man in . It says sales of Aldridge’s first vintage gold strapless number; Stacey he’s athletic, he’s serious and he has MULTITASKING MAVEN: If Lily design effort — her New Bendet of Alice + Olivia in one of her nice feet.” Held at the A60 Rooftop Aldridge can sneak away York neighbor bought one brand’s designs, and Joan Rivers, who Terrace at the Thompson Hotel, the from her busy schedule of her jackets without spoke to WWD about today’s style icons. event drew names like John Legend, Zanna shooting photos with realizing she created “[In terms of fashion,] Cate Blanchett is Roberts Rassi and Giuliana Rancic. Victoria’s Secret, she’ll it — she contemplates untouchable,” Rivers said. “Also, Halle — BELISA SILVA trade slinking in skimpies staging her own fashion Berry [and] Angelina Jolie, sticking out that for scouting trends at presentation in Los leg [at the 2012 Academy Awards], she UP IN SMOKE: At the BCBG Max Azria New York Fashion Week. Angeles one day. “Velvet looked good. She was aerating because makeup test on Wednesday, a fire A fan of Rag & Bone and is a California-based she had a yeast infection, but it started erupted backstage on the catering table. Michael Kors, the model company. I’m a California a trend.” Rivers, who was joined by her Upon noticing it, makeup artist Val is prepping another girl. That’s the vibe of daughter Melissa, in Current/Elliott pants Garland, who was making faces for the collaboration with Velvet the collection,” she said. and a Lanvin top, also blasted select show on behalf of Sephora Pro, kept by Graham & Spencer to “With the styling, it would young up-and-comers for their lack of right on working. “We had cameramen, premiere next spring. fit L.A. so perfectly.” fashion and common sense. “Oh God… lots of editors there, and then all of a “It’s so exciting and Aldridge’s even Miley Cyrus,” said Melissa Rivers. “In the sudden somebody goes, ‘Fire!’” said inspiring to be in New Lily Aldridge in a look from dreaming up baby clothes last two years they took her from child Garland, adding that she just asked for York for fashion week,” her spring collaboration with inspired by her 1-year- star to sex symbol, and in three-and-a- a window to be opened so she could she said. “Of course, I Velvet by Graham & Spencer. old daughter, Dixie. half minutes she blew it up. We all [had continue. “I’m like ‘Fire, oh, OK.’” — B.S. Selin Awarded Supima Design Prize

By KARYN MONGET

NEW YORK — Morgan Selin, a gradu- ate of Rhode Island School of Design, won the $10,000 grand prize at the Sixth Annual Supima Design Competition small space Thursday afternoon. Competing with seven other finalists at the runway show staged at The Studio at Lincoln Center, Selin presented a capsule collection of eveningwear made exclusively with Supima cotton fabrics. Supima is the promotional organization of the American Pima cotton growers. Morgan Selin takes a bow with her models. Selin’s mini collection — which was rendered in a mix of handmade matte accolades from the judges, who includ- knits and shiny metallics in a palette ed Douglas Hannant, Fern Mallis and of blue, silver and pewter tones — won Rachel Roy, for her innovative style. Her résumé is peppered with several Award-winning design awards and scholarships, all eveningwear by resulting from her draping and experi- Morgan Selin. menting with materials such as bulky machine knits. Selin said her goal was to transform Big garments into wearable jewelry through sheen and reflective qualities. “I wanted to work with metallics and thought it would be a challenge. I used silver and pewter foil, but I also want- ed to add texture to the garment, so by Business shredding it into strips I gave it a certain texture. My inspiration was the ocean, a deep blue palette of the currents and waters twisting around,” said Selin. WWD Marketplace is the premier destination Asked if she plans to start her own design business with the $10,000 check that was handed to her by the show’s for the industry’s classified and career listings. host, celebrity stylist Rachel Zoe, she replied, “No.” “I’m going to buy a working foot sew- ing machine — a sewing machine to work with leather — and create a lot of leather 800.423.3314 designs. But I would like to work for an- other designer for a while and learn the JOHN AQUINO ropes of the business,” she noted. BY wwd.com/marketplace Selin’s mentors for the competi- tion were Meg DeCubellis and Donna PHOTOS Gustavsen.

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