Gaga’S ﬁrst Single from Her New Album ARTPOP

KNIT PICK WWD SHINE ON SURFACE INTEREST PLAYS Special Report WWD ACCESSORIES A BIG ROLE AMONG KEY LOOKS AT COLORFUL PIECES INNERWEAR TRENDS. WOMEN’S JEWELRY ASSOCIATION AND CUSTOM SPECS. WWD INTIMATES, CELEBRATES 30 YEARS. WWDSECTION II SECTION III PAGES 4 THROUGH 8

MONDAY, JULY 29, 2013 Q $3.00 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY

The cover image from “Applause,” Lady Gaga’s ﬁrst single from her new album ARTPOP. Shot by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin. Gaga: ‘I’m Every Icon’

By JESSICA IREDALE

“I WANT TO KNOW. WHAT DO YOU SEE?” asks Lady Gaga, her voice carrying a combination of genuine curiosity, press-savvy flirtation and inherent provocation. The image in question, debuted to WWD, is the cover of Gaga’s new single “Applause,” the first from her forthcoming third studio album ARTPOP, to be released Nov. 11 through Interscope records. Shot by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, the photograph is colorful, emotional and theatrical, capturing Gaga with a Pierrot-esque face, her rainbow of makeup artfully smeared and her hair covered under a head wrap. Asked to explain SEE PAGE 12 2 WWD MONDAY, JULY 29, 2013 WWD.COM Hudson’s Bay Likely Saks Buyer THE BRIEFING BOX IN TODAY’S WWD cludes Lord & Taylor and Hudson’s Bay, and By DAVID MOIN because Saks has valuable real estate and a luxury image. A DEAL FOR the sale of Saks Fifth Avenue It’s possible an 11th-hour offer changes the could happen early this week, with Hudson’s outcome, but sources believe HBC is the front- Bay Co. emerging as the most likely taker, ac- runner. A sovereign wealth fund from Qatar, cording to sources. which already owns Harrods and Printemps, Richard Baker, chairman of Hudson’s Bay, and Starwood Capital are also interested in has reportedly informed close associates purchasing Saks, and various private equity that he is confident he’s got the winning bid. firms have also shown interest. The New York Baker has long been interested in buying Post reported Saturday that Starwood dropped Saks to beef up his retail portfolio, which in- out of the bidding. Investments to Weigh on LVMH

comparison with the first half of 2012, when it STEVE EICHNER By Laura Love and Atlanta de Cadenet, both JOELLE DIDERICH earned an exceptional dividend on its shares in in M Missoni. For more, see WWD.com. Hermès International. Excluding this effect, net PHOTO BY PARIS — LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton is profits would have risen 1 percent, Guiony said. paying the price for future growth. LVMH raised its stake in the maker of Birkin The luxury conglomerate said margins in its fash- bags and silk scarves to 23.1 percent as of June 30, ion and leather goods division came under pressure from 22.6 percent as of Dec. 30. “It was an oppor- Lady Gaga unveils the cover of her new single, “Applause,” in the first half as a slight improvement in the profit- tunistic move. It doesn’t say anything about our at- shot by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, to WWD, ability of its cash-cow Louis Vuitton brand was out- titude in the future, so you cannot extrapolate that and talks (sort of) about her upcoming album, ARTPOP. PAGE 1 weighed by ongoing investments in smaller for the rest of the year,” Guiony said. brands such as Céline, Fendi and Berluti. The move will likely stoke the ongoing battle WWD talks with two leaders of the Women’s Jewelry And Jean-Jacques Guiony, chief finan- between the luxury powerhouses, who are em- Association about the organization, this year’s gala and cial officer of LVMH, warned the situa- broiled in a series of court cases. the state of the industry. PAGE 4 tion would last for another 18 months. LVMH surprised markets in October 2010 by Louis “The bulk of this year and next year announcing it had bought a 17.1 percent stake in Building a sprawling retail chain, extending the breadth will be devoted to significant investments Vuitton’s Hermès in 2010 via cash-settled equity swaps that Speedy of merchandise and cultivating industry relationships has in these brands, which means higher allowed it to circumvent market regulations re- earned Candy Udell a place in WJA’s Hall of Fame. PAGE 6 capital and a little bit of pressure on Bandoulière quiring firms to declare share purchases. handbag. profitability, as you’ve seen in the first France’s stock market regulator, AMF, earli- Over the course of her three-decade career, Tryna half of this year,” he said in a confer- er this month slapped a record fine on LVMH Kochanek, the outgoing president of the WJA, has ence call with analysts on Friday. over its initial share acquisition. LVMH has devoted resources to helping women in business. PAGE 8 LVMH — whose stable of brands appealed the ruling. also includes Bulgari, Givenchy, Executives at the family-controlled Dom Perignon, Sephora and Hermès have repeatedly urged LVMH to At Studio 323 New York, Jonathan Chánduví and his employees take on restoration projects ranging from refurbishing Guerlain — reported that net prof- reduce its shareholding. Bernard Arnault, PAGE 14 its fell 6.2 percent in the first half to the conglomerate’s chairman and chief 18th-century pieces to working on contemporary art.

1.58 billion euros, or $2.07 billion, on executive officer, earlier this year said sales that rose 5.6 percent to 13.70 LVMH had acquired its Hermès stake “un- Milan’s courthouse has rejected Prada Group’s request billion euros, or $17.98 billion. expectedly” and reiterated that his inten- to sequester the Cova brand, the parent of which LVMH LVMH shares rose 3.6 percent to tions were peaceful. owns a stake in. PAGE 15 135.05 euros, or $178.46, on the Paris Guiony said LVMH had no intention of stock exchange on Friday following the release of the selling its Hermès shares. “There is no particular Clique Media is giving beauty a new perch online with figures after Thursday’s close. need on our side to monetize this shareholding in Byrdie, a Web site launching today with an eye toward Analysts cheered the improved performance of order to fuel the growth of our other business, and trends and celebrity beauty. PAGE 15 the fashion and leather goods division, which posted to be frank, we are pretty pleased with the perfor- sales growth of 2 percent in the second quarter, com- mance of the Hermès business,” he said. AT PVH, Fred Gehring and Tom Murry have signed new pared with an increase of 0.4 percent in the first three LVMH said operating profits in the six months im- contracts detailing how they will begin transitioning into months of the year. proved 5.3 percent to 2.67 billion euros, or $3.51 billion. part-time capacities as executive chairmen. PAGE 16 Guiony said the overall picture remained broadly The group’s operating margin fell to 20 percent from 21 unchanged from the first quarter, with flat sales in percent during the same period a year earlier, reflect- Former Tiffany & Co. executive Ingrid Lederhaas-Okun Asia, mid-single-digit growth in the U.S. and double- ing the dilutive effect of the integration since the end pled guilty on Friday to stealing more than $2.1 million digit increases in Japan and Europe. of 2012 of three major Hong Kong airport concessions. worth of jewelry from the upscale jeweler. PAGE 16 The group has undertaken a wide-ranging effort Their contribution boosted selective retailing’s to upgrade the perception of Louis Vuitton, famed for share of group revenues in the first half to 31 per- its monogram canvas, by opening fewer stores and in- cent, up three points. Meanwhile, fashion and leather Nanette Lepore is moving closer to a final decision troducing more leather bags into its product mix. goods decreased its stake by two points to 34 percent. on an investor, possibly within the next month or two, PAGE 16 LVMH reported that while Louis Vuitton grew The selective retailing segment saw sales jump financial sources said. below the average rate for the fashion and leather 18.4 percent in the second quarter, boosted by con- goods division in the first half, Céline, Kenzo, Givenchy tinued revenue growth at Sephora worldwide and ON WWD.COM and Berluti generated double-digit increases. a strong performance by travel retailer DFS, as Guiony said the group was “more or less happy” Chinese tourism boosted business, particularly at with the price architecture at Louis Vuitton, noting its stores in Hong Kong and Macao. EYE: M Missoni pulled out all the stops — and all the that the brand had implemented “very significant” With revenues up 5.3 percent in the second quar- models — for a summer music soiree at Le Bain and price increases in Japan to compensate for the con- ter, the perfumes and cosmetics group benefited Rooftop at The Standard hotel. For more, see WWD.com. tinued weakness of the yen, which depreciated by 18 from “considerable” revenue growth in the U.S. and percent against the euro in the first six months of 2013. Asia, particularly in China, and a strong showing by The operating margin in the fashion and leather its Guerlain and Benefit brands. TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. goods segment fell to 32 percent in the first half from However, sales of watches and jewelry were WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. 33 percent during the same period last year, reflect- down 3.8 percent during the quarter, as multibrand COPYRIGHT ©2013 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. ing ongoing investments, including accelerated store retailers continued to lighten their inventories. VOLUME 206, NO. 19. MONDAY, JULY 29, 2013. 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All figures have hope currencies will not wipe this out,” he said. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt been converted at average exchange rates for the Late Friday, the Christian Dior Couture business re- of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request periods to which they refer. ported first-half profits from recurring operations rose for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at Antoine Belge, head of consumer brands and 18 percent versus a year earlier to 57 million euros, or www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that retail equity research, Europe, at HSBC in Paris, $74.8 million at average exchange. Revenues increased we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at called the size of the investments “surprisingly 15 percent to 659 million euros, or $865.3 million. P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED high,” noting that margins already took a hit of 100 “Retail activities performed remarkably well, ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER basis points in the first half of 2012 due to “factors growing 17 percent…thanks in part to the success of UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. 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WWD SpeciAl RepoRt: WJA At 30 Women’s Jewelry Association presidents past and future talk about the organization’s milestone anniversary, growth and continuing mission to Women’s Club support women in business. By Alexandra Steigrad SINCE IT WAS founded 30 years ago, the Women’s Jewelry Association has evolved Andrea Hansen and Phyllis Bergman from a five-person operation that served as a haven of sorts for women in business to hash out ideas to a 1,000-person organization that helps foster leadership for jewelry executives. Each year, the WJA throws a gala to honor industry hands who exemplify the group’s mission for the advancement of women. WWD sat down with former WJA president Phyllis Bergman and incoming president Andrea Hansen to talk about the organization’s mission, this year’s gala and the state of the jewelry industry.

WWD: Talk about this year’s event and what you are planning for WJA’s 30th anniversary. Andrea Hansen: We put together a campaign to celebrate the past, to honor the last 30 years and to look toward what WJA is today and where we want to take it. I think the honorees this year — in

every category, not just the three most important awards, but in every category — were selected to really represent the past, present and future of the industry.

WWD: Who chooses the honorees?

Phyllis Bergman: They are always selected by a panel. It’s usually made up of the board and our chapter president. We try and have people from various aspects of

the industry, but we don’t tell who [is on the panel]. WWD: Describe the’’ awards. A.H.: There’s a Hall of Fame award, a

Corporate award and an Achievement homas iannaccone t

award to a man who has been incredibly supportive of women in the industry.

P.B.: That award is called the Ben photo by Kaiser award. Ben Kaiser was chairman of Baume & Mercier, and he felt Standard Chartered Bank. Standard WWD: How big is WJA as an organization? changed — there’s no doubt about that. very strongly about being supportive of Chartered Bank is probably right now the A.H.: We have about 1,000 members now. As far as commodity prices, I don’t hon- women. Back then it was a very male- largest supporter of the jewelry industry P.B.: It started in 1983 with a few women estly think that ’’ will have an effect on dominated industry — it’s still a very worldwide. Their offices are in London. in the industry. In those days, men had retailing. Where you will see the biggest male-dominated industry — and so he Yo u probably wouldn’t hear about them organizations where they could meet and change in our industry — which the con- was very supportive of women rising up too much in the U.S., but they really sup- network. Women had no place. sumer, the retailer will not see for a long and achieving what they could. port the core of the industry. They pro- A.H.: It’s not that women weren’t mem- time — will be at the base of the indus- vide financing for all the major site hold- bers. Women weren’t accepted. tr y, and that is in mining, and in banking ers all over the world, also for mining P.B.: So, five girls got together and they that finances mining. Mining is becoming companies, and they employ women from formed this group. They started to ask more expensive. They haven’t found new When you’re a woman all over the world. people to join. Then they asked Helene diamond supplies…and eventually that Fortunoff to be president. She truly will filter up. in business, you need WWD: And the Ben Kaiser award? brought a business sense to the group Right now, I think [the greatest change P.B.: Darwin Copeman is chief executive and she made them financially viable. is more about] the different consumer, to keep your finger officer of Jewelers Mutual Insurance, After that, Rachel [Rosin] was president the new consumer who’s out there. which is the largest insurance company and then I became president, and I took A.H.: It’s understanding this Millennial in the industry, insuring the consumer, them to a more national level, beyond the generation. on the pulse of the the retailer and the manufacturer. They New York area, in about 1989. have been most supportive to a lot of or- These more national firms — Macy’s, industry, and you need ganizations in the industry, especially Zale, Kay, Sterling, J.C. Penney — started WJA, throughout the years. to hire some women, and women started Where you will see the to have connections. to become executives. And then all of a WWD: How do you select the winners? sudden, the manufacturers, who were biggest change in our — AndreA HAnsen A.H.: We look from the point of view of selling these to these retailers, realized “how do they impact women in the in- they had to get some women on board industry...will be at the dustry?” It’s where we come from. who would sell to these women [buyers], The Hall of Fame award is always P.B.: I think the reason we have six or and make the relationships stronger. And given to a woman, and the Corporate seven smaller awards [is that they] WJA started to take off from there. base of the industry, award is given to a corporation that has cover women who have achieved to A.H.: We have 12 chapters and this year, enabled women to achieve their fullest a certain level, but with the larger it looks like we are moving up to 15 na- and that is in mining, potential. awards, we’re looking at major players tionally. Over the past couple of years, in the industry. we opened chapters in Italy and India. and in banking that WWD: How did you select Candy Udell for the We are looking at Brazil and China and Hall of Fame award? WWD: Let’s talk about the 30th anniversary. possibly Canada, as well. The organiza- P.B.: There are fewer candidates for A.H.: We created a 30th anniversary tion needs to grow in the direction the finances mining. Hall of Fame because you really have to campaign — we’ve been celebrating industry is growing. achieve very high goals’’ for yourself, for for a whole year. It included a cam- — PHyllis BergmAn the industry and for women. paign for which we are selling tributes WWD: How has volatility in commodity prices A.H.: Candy employs a large number for $30 apiece. We are asking the in- impacted the industry? P.B.: I think years ago, you had the woman of women. Their business [London dustry at large to honor someone who A.H.: So much. When you’re a woman in who only wore fine jewelry and the Jewelers] ranges from supporting young inspired them. This will go on until business, you need to keep your finger on woman who only wore costume jewelry. emerging women designers to dealing the end of the year. We also created a the pulse of the industry, and you need to But today, just as it is in fashion, we’ll with the world’s top brands. Candy has series of events across our chapters have connections. I need to advise my cli- buy Prada shoes and we’ll buy an H&M her finger on everything that happens in and we are launching new chapters ents on a number of issues. If it was not T-shirt. Everybody is mixing and match- that company. with the goal of raising our member- for my relationship with WJA members, ing. The stores are starting to realize [For more on Candy Udell, see page 6.] ship 30 percent. I wouldn’t have an understanding of the this, and are starting to carry crystals. P.B.: For the first time, we are also giving business. For me, from the beginning, it They are starting to carry all different WWD: What about the Corporate award? out $30,000 in scholarships to honor our was the biggest reason to join WJA. types of color. They are realizing that the P.B.: The Corporate award winner is 30th anniversary. P.B.: The industry has dramatically {Continued on ’’page 6}

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WWD SpeciAl RepoRt: WJA At 30 Yo u do have to network with your top to afford luxury. Yo u had a larger pool of are selling under their names and they clients…but it is not that mom-and-pop people keeping all those designers and have established names. Truth be told, business anymore. retailers afloat. if you did a study and you ask people All of a sudden, we have a reality check. about jewelry designers, they would only Women’s Club WWD: There has been a lot of consolidation of Guess what? It’s Darwinistic. Do you have know Tiffany, that’s a store, Cartier, that’s {Continued from page 4} those mom-and-pop shops in the wake of the what it takes to stay in that game? It’s the a store, De Beers because of the name, consumer out there today wants every- recession. What is the state of those small busi- natural process of elimination through Harry Winston, that’s a store, and they thing. She wants the fine, she wants the nesses now? consolidation and bankruptcies. would probably know David Yurman. fun, she wants the leather. Everything P.B.: There has been a lot of consolida- Most [jewelry] designers are not on the goes today. tion in retail. But I think the players that WWD: How do you enter the business and com- tip of people’s tongues. remain will be stronger. I think the big pete as an independent jeweler today? A.H.: The customer walks into a store like WWD: Does this diminish a high-end brand? word is Niche, with a capital “N.” Niche, P.B.: It’s very difficult, but again it’s niche. London Jewelers and she trusts the store P.B.: No. I think this makes a brand wider niche, niche. Specialization is key. Yo u There’s a new consumer. Jewelry doesn’t to bring interesting design. There are a and it gives it more appeal. have to be flexible today and market define the new consumer like it did be- lot of interesting designer collections out yourself and find a niche. fore. In 2008, the emergence of that new in the market that think of themselves WWD: Can a brand go too wide? A.H.: I think the affluence of the years consumer and the recession made it as brands, but they are not brands. They P.B.: I think the idea is today that you between 2002 and 2007 had one side ef- harder for us. It was a double whammy are interesting designer collections. That have to be flexible, that you have to be fect, which was to enable a lot of people for our industry. I think now we are slow- does not make one a brand. willing to change. I think social media is who were just ordinary to be successful. ly emerging. an influencer today. Yo u did not have to be that special or A.H.: There’s this need throughout the in- WWD: How important is it to be a brand today? A.H.: I have a couple of retail clients, and that talented to actually make that much dustry to educate people young and old A.H.: In terms of international retail, the one of the biggest challenges for them is money. Retailers could stock 10 deep into about how to be in business now — the world is going more and more brand- how layered business has become. When every category — 10 brands of Italian new now. ed. The designer category is definitely they started, it was Mom and Dad be- yellow gold and diamond jewelry that where most retailers are going. hind the counter with their clients. They were actually made in the same factory. WWD: Can sellers of unbranded jewelry com- P.B.: It’s more about the story, the mes- went on a European trip. They bought Yo u know, colored gemstones and bridal. pete against companies selling branded jewelry? sage. And today, customers want the real product. They brought it in. It was a very There was room for everyone because A.H.: It’s a very large and varied market. story, not a made-up story. simple process. Today you have brands. there were a lot of people who were not P.B.: I do mostly private label for major A.H.: There are a lot of challenges you

Yo u advertise, but you have social media. really luxury consumers who were able companies like Jared, Sterling, so they can overcome if you have a real story.

Honoring Candy Udell Building a sprawling retail chain, extending the breadth of merchandise and cultivating industry relationships’’ has earned the london Jewelers executive a place in WJA’s Hall of Fame. By Alexandra Steigrad

CANDY UDELL has gone from sumers into stores. Shoppers everything was mom-and-pop. “mom and pop” to a big family. could select from more moder- There were more mom-and-pop The industry veteran, who ately priced wares, including manufacturers, for example,” “” is slated to accept the Women’s the boutique’s own private-label Udell noted. “Today, you are Jewelry Association’s Hall of collection, or diamond-encrust- dealing with very big compa- Fame award tonight, began her ed designer baubles. nies, especially in the watch career in 1973, working along- “A few years ago, during the world. Some of it has changed side her husband in his family’s recession, people cut back on for the better, but you also lose store, London Jewelers, which jewelry and watches, but it’s that personal feeling.” was founded in 1926. slowly been building back up as And it’s precisely that per- At the time, when the duo we’ve seen an improvement in sonal touch that has driven began working in the small shop on a corner in the Long Island town of Glen Cove, N.Y., London Jewelers was a mom-and-pop We are lucky we were able to shop that hadn’t yet expanded its footprint. “My husband and I were mar- turn our name into a brand. ried in college, and I went right into the business,” Udell said. — CAndy Udell, london Jewelers “We had one small store. Now we have 12 stores and counting.” Under the newlyweds’ di- the economy,” she noted, adding London Jewelers’ growth, ac- rection, the business began to that “brands are prepared for cording to the businesswoman. grow not only in size but also in the volatility.” Having the capacity to at- scope. Over time, the company That volatility includes vac- tract brands ranging from Patek solidified relationships with top illating gold, silver and dia- Philippe and Hermès to David brands like Cartier, Van Cleef & mond prices, but according to Yurman and Ippolita is a credit Arpels and Rolex to offer a di- Udell, London Jewelers has to what the Udell calls the com- verse selection of high-quality been able to carry high-end la- pany’s forte — its strong custom- watches and jewelry. bels that aren’t as impacted by er service. “Today, we carry 60 brands,” costs. Most are larger brands “We really pride ourselves offered Udell. that are able to offset volatile on that,” she said. “My husband During the height of the re- prices, making commodity costs and I are all ’’about personality reliable name. We are lucky we boutiques, including David cession, Udell explained that a nonissue. Key to that ability and building personal relation- were able to turn our name into Yurman and Van Cleef & London Jewelers was able to is the fact that the industry has ships. It’s Customer Service a brand.” Arpels, which are owned by trade on its expansive product changed, she said. 101. We also have a strong ad- Throughout the years, the London Jewelers. offering as a way to lure con- “Years ago, when we started, vertising team and a trusted, company has also opened Further building the brand, the Udells launched a concept in 2011 called Two by London, a boutique specializing in engagement and bridal jewelry in Manhasset, N.Y. Despite her success and strong connections in the jewelry and watch industry, Udell, who has been honored before by WJA for her leadership, admitted to being surprised when the group asked her if she would accept the Hall of Fame nod. “Of course, I’d be honored,” she laughed. “Women have come so far in this industry, and it’s A London Jewelers store in Manhasset, NY. in part because of the Women’s Jewelry Association.”

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8 WWD MONDAY, JULY 29, 2013 WWD.COM

WWD SPECIAL REPORT: WJA AT 30 Tryna the Trainer

TRYNA KOCHANEK’S mission veloped business and marketing Today, Sterling has about has been as clear and sharp as a strategy. 18,000 employees on the retail perfect diamond. “A really solid business plan side, 16,000 of which ultimate- Over the course of her three- is very important,” Kochanek ly report to Kochanek. Of that decade career, Kochanek, who said. “Some designers come group, 73 percent are female. is the outgoing president of the in with a very limited under- “The jewelry industry wasn’t

Women’s Jewelry Association, standing of business or how to that diverse before,” she said, has devoted many years to culti- grass-roots advertise without a adding that at the firm’s head- vating a network to help women lot of money.” quarters, the ratio of male to in business. At WJA, Kochanek According to the exec, that’s female workers is “close to an traded on her retail experience where she comes in. even split.” to mentor female designers and “WJA is an organization “I’ve had very good male and independent jewelers on the fi- that’s about relationships,”·· female managers,” Kochanek nancial side of the business. she noted. “When I’m coaching said, referring to her own rise JAMES LEYNSE/CORBIS A current senior vice presi- someone, whether it’s a new de- to the top. “At Sterling, we have Kay Jewelers is part of the Signet retail network. dent of field operations and re- signer or an independent jewel- strong core values: You’ve got PHOTO BY pair at Sterling Jewelers, the er, I mentor her on how to enter to treat people right. If you al- American arm of the British the business.” ways hire the brightest and the her, she joined WJA in 2000. director, who will, among other giant Signet Jewelers Ltd., That know-how was picked best and teach them, train them, Over time, she realized that she things, spearhead fund-raising Kochanek pointed out that one up from her time at Sterling, she mentor them, the best people go could play a larger role in the initiatives for the group. of the biggest problems she en- said, explaining that when she to the top.” organization. Like many companies in the counters in dealing with new began her career, there was only Taking her firm’s mantra of “At that time, I had 28 years jewelry industry, WJA has to companies is a lack of a well-de- a “handful” of female managers. promotion from within with of experience helping women evolve with the times in order to move forward. With that experi- grow, she said. ence, I probably could aid in ad- Many brands have lost their vancing the organization.” relevance because they haven’t A really solid business plan is Four years ago, Kochanek “kept up,” from either a “techno- was elected president, and it logical standpoint or a product very important. Some designers was her mandate to financially standpoint,” the president noted. restructure WJA and put it in a And even though Kochanek “healthy position.” She accom- admitted that there has been come in with a very limited plished that and began expand- much progress for women since ing the organization internation- she began her own career, she understanding of business or ally in Italy and in India. still underscores the importance Kochanek, who cedes the of organizations like WJA. how to grass-roots advertise title of president to Andrea “I just think that we have got Hansen in January, helped grow to step back and say, ‘How many WJA’s technological cred with female ceo’s are there today?’” without a lot of money. a new Web site and a social she said. “I haven’t ever tallied media presence. Most recently, that up, but directionally, that’s — TRYNA KOCHANEK as president, Kochanek also a way WJA can help women.” hired Teresa Stohs as executive — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD Growth Spurt: WJA’s Grant and Scholarship Fund

THE WOMEN’S JEWELRY Association’s “I really missed working with my grant and scholarship program was born ··Lisa Kim hands,” Kim said. She plans to use the from humble beginnings. funds to hire an up-and-coming fashion “It started off very small in the photographer to create images for her late Eighties, early Nineties,” said Web site and printed materials. Phyllis Bergman, the former presi- Jen Cullen Williams, another recipi- dent of WJA, now the vice president ent and also the copresident of WJA’s Los of the Scholarship Committee for the Angeles chapter, put the $500 member International Board of Directors and grant she won in 2010 toward diamond president of the Scholarship Fund Board courses at the Gemological Institute of Trustees. of America. Since 2007, Williams has “We gave out prizes for design com- worked for Luxury Brand Group, a full- petitions,” she continued. “And then we service p.r., marketing and communica- decided that our role was to help women tions agency with clients primarily in the grow in this industry. So we thought, fine jewelry industry. She is now manag- well, why don’t we start at the school ing director. level? We started to get a lot of applica- “It’s essentially about helping you tions and we realized that there are a lot find mentors and networking and being of people out there that really wanted to able to talk to some of the women that participate. We knew that we had to raise are in that next stage of their careers more money.” and finding out how they make it work,” Fast forward to 2013 and the organi- Williams said. “I think it goes a lot fur- zation is about to honor its 30th anniver- ther than just building your business, but sary with $30,000 in scholarships and also building you as a professional within an additional $16,000 in grants, totaling your business.” $46,000 — the highest amount awarded in Bergman, who in addition to WJA sits the program’s history. “It started as this on six different jewelry-related boards baby program and really became more Jen Cullen Williams of directors including the Jewelers formalized,” Bergman said. The award Vigilance Committee and the Diamond ceremony will take place at the organiza- Empowerment Fund, sees WJA’s grant tion’s annual Awards for Excellence Gala national organization and the silent business. The first winner of the inau- and scholarship program as a way to help tonight at Pier 60. auction at its annual gala as well as gural grant is Lisa Kim of Lisa Kim Fine break the persistent glass ceiling in the The types of educational financial from companies and individuals who Jewelry, in Los Angeles. jewelry industry. aid offered are split into three tiers. support the program. “I’ve only been a member [of WJA] “Today maybe it’s not quite as ob- Member grants are awarded to WJA This year also sees the first install- for a year now, but clearly I’ve come to vious as it was years ago when there professional-level members in incre- ment of the Carelle-WJA Member grant understand the benefits already,” Kim were really not that many things open ments of $500, while student scholar- in honor of Brooke Tivol McGrath, a for- said in a phone interview. Kim, who to women,” she said. “And today women ships, which vary from $500 to $7,000, mer jeweler at the New York-based firm worked for 10 years at 20th Century are more accepted. When I was doing are available to female students en- Carelle who died in 2011 at age 28 from Fox Animation, Nickelodeon, PBS and it back then, it was mostly men. And it rolled in fine jewelry and watch cours- a rare blood infection. The $5,000 merit- Cartoon Network as an animator, left that still kind of is,” she laughed, “but don’t es in both designer and nondesigner based grant aids members who are in business last year to pursue her love of tell anybody.” categories. Funding comes from WJA’s the first five years of developing their jewelry design. — KRISTI GARCED The Leading International Jewelry Buyer

CIRCA Salutes the WJA, With Special Congratulations to the 2013 Award Recipients

Candy Udell, London Jewelers; Darwin Copeman, Jewelers Mutual; Standard Chartered

and the 2013 Awards for Excellence Nominees including our own Angelina Chen, Senior Director of CIRCA New York & Hong Kong.

800.876.5490 | CIRCAJEWELS.COM | OFFICES WORLDWIDE. CALL, CLICK OR COME IN

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arivaﬁnejewelry.com 10 WWD MONDAY, JULY 29, 2013

Something Wicked’s leather and suede bra with Rhonda Shear Ahh Lifestyle Collection’s nylon and spandex shaper skirt. Dogeared necklace; Carolina Amato Accessories gloves; Emy Mack pumps.

Notes of a Scandal

“IT IS ONLY BY WAY OF PAIN that one arrives at pleasure,” piece for everyone.” Rae said the bodysuit is not exactly a wrote the Marquis de Sade, patron saint of bondage gear. That bestseller — just three accounts picked it up for fall: Faire rule has been revised recently in the hands of lingerie de- Frou Frou in Los Angeles; Stash at The Montauk Beach House, signers who prefer their scandal handled delicately. In other and a store in Australia, where the bare-and-dare trend has words, lingerie for a woman who wants the attitude of S&M been going strong for a while. but is deﬁnitely not a masochist. For example, bras with small Laura Hall and Gillian Mahin of For Love & Lemons both cutouts plus an extra strap or two, paired with high-waisted used to work for Australian fashion lines. “When we were panties, capture an edgy, seductive style while retaining a us- there, all the women wore sheer garments,” says Hall. “They er-friendly comfort level. all wore really pretty negligées with underwear underneath Hanky Panky launched its After Midnight collection in it.” That look inspired For Love & Lemons’ Love Yo u Knot 2010, with styles that include a bra in its signature stretch lace velvet bondage bralette and matching high-waisted brief. with peak-a-boo slits on the cups, decorated with pink bows “The whole purpose is to have some sort of cool, strappy, for a romantic touch. The idea behind After Midnight was bondage-y item to replace the slip,” says Hall. “We wanted to “erotic, sexy lingerie that’s also pretty, feminine and comfort- make it more delicate and not so dominatrix.” BARE RACHEL ASSISTANT: ZHE ZHU; FASHION FOR (MALIN+GOETZ); PHOTO ASSISTANT: ANNE KOHLHAGEN able; that women actually want to wear to feel sexy in,” says Retail-wise, specialty lingerie stores will always be more in- Larissa Shirley King, a designer for Hanky Panky. “There’s a clined to buy into more directional looks, but mainstream outlets lot on the market that’s cheap and trashy, and [a lot] that is are also showing increased interest. “Our customer loves to in- very, very, very high-end. We found this niche for ourselves for corporate edgy styling elements into her wardrobe,” says Jenny pretty things that are still comfortable.” Fuchs, a buyer for Shopbop, which carries Hanky Panky After While the Hanky Panky collection is very much innerwear Midnight and picked up For Love & Lemons for fall. “These lin- to all, the most daring labels, such as Noe Undergarments and gerie styles featuring multiple straps and peekaboo detailing For Love & Lemons, carry styles designed to be seen, and not give her that risqué feel, but can still be subtly feminine.” just in the bedroom. Noe’s Zachary X bodysuit is done in soft “Women of today are being more experimental,” says Noe’s

nude mesh with soft underwire cups and a thick herringbone Rae. “The word ‘bondage’ isn’t as faux pas as it used to be. We CARI DUPREY USING REDKEN; MAKEUP BY T-strap back. “It has that bondage feel, but it’s for the woman use that word to describe some of our pieces, and in the past, who doesn’t want to take it to that extreme level,” says Noe it would be like you can’t bring that word into the collection designer Bonnie Rae, noting that it’s meant to be worn under unless you really have that dark feeling. But now, [the market] a sheer dress or tunic to show off the upper details. “It’s wear- seems a lot more open to that kind of exploratory world.” able and you can kind of play it on the fence, but it’s not a — JESSICA IREDALE MODEL: CHARMIE/WILHELMINA; HAIR BY WWD MONDAY, JULY 29, 2013 11 WWD.COM

Polyester and Burberry London’s cotton spandex velvet bra gabardine trenchcoat, and panties set by Warner’s No Side Effects Skivvies by For Love nylon and spandex bra & Lemons. Necklace and Bordelle’s polyamide by Dogeared; mules and elastane skirt. by Emy Mack. Dogeared necklace; Falke hosiery.

Noe Undergarments’ Hanky Panky After polyamide and elastane Midnight’s nylon bodysuit with elastic and spandex lace strapping. Le Vian gold open bralette over and diamond bracelet; Breeze Comfort’s Levante hosiery. polyester bra with Triumph’s polyamide and elastane shaper briefs. Dogeared necklace.

PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY; SHOT ON LOCATION AT THE MEADOW SUITE IN THE CROSBY HOTEL, NYC 12 WWD MONDAY, JULY 29, 2013 It’s What Gaga’s Living For: Applause, Applause

WhAt IS It GAGA’S LIvInG For? Applause,’’ Applause {Continued from page one} show I might have needed a full a week ago in Los Angeles. after the show,” she says. “When the image at the outset of a hip replacement. I would have The photographers, who were I look at it I see that there is a phone interview last Friday, been out at least a year, maybe introduced to Gaga when they longing for the applause. I see Gaga immediately turned the longer.” shot her first V cover in 2009, have that there is a void that is leaking question around: “I need to get The mandatory retreat from since worked on several fashion onstage, that the performer is your reading first,” she says. the spotlight was almost as films for her. This is the first time leaking, that the art is sort of “Otherwise it’s not art.” painful as the injury itself for they’ve shot a music video for becoming something else in front She’s back. someone who hasn’t gone without of your eyes. Something more “Applause” drops Aug. 19 — performing for more than two human, something more honest.” also the album’s presale date — weeks since she was 14 years old. Gaga recalls being moved to six days before Gaga headlines Gaga used the down time not only The statement is tears during this particular the MTV Video Music Awards at for an aggressive rehabilitation performance for the cameras. the Barclays Center in Brooklyn. program but also to hang out with As for the music, details are at The VMAs will mark her return her crew, known as the Haus of that I’m not one a premium, but despite the tears to the public domain after a Gaga, including van Lamsweerde and pantomime face, “I’ll tell rough six months spent mostly and Matadin, Brandon Maxwell, icon. I’m every you that it is very fun,” she says. under the radar. ARTPOP was the Haus fashion director, “And that it’s full of happiness, announced in August of last year her hair and makeup artists icon. I’m an icon because what I’m saying in the when Gaga was in the midst of and other artistically inclined song essentially is that I live for her ambitious Born This Way friends. They read books, the applause. I live for the way Ball world tour, which kicked off listened to music and exchanged that is made out you cheer and scream for me. in April 2012 in Seoul and came “creative gifts that we have to Give me that thing that I love. to an abrupt halt in February offer each other,” says Gaga. “I of all the colors on Put your hands up, make them in Montreal when a severe hip had six months to beef up my touch.” At this point, it sounds injury forced Gaga to cancel the brain and my body. I got to put the palette at every like she’s quoting lyrics, but rest of her shows. “My injury was a giant white or black sheet of again, we won’t know until Aug. actually a lot worse than just paint over my whole canvas and 19, barring a leak. a labral tear,” she says. “I had I got to review ARTPOP again. I time. I have no Gaga wrote “Applause” with broken my hip. Nobody knew, was given the time to really be DJ White Shadow, with whom and I haven’t even told the fans creative because it’s a gazing restrictions. she’s collaborated for five years. yet. But when we got all the MRIs process, it really is. I have to gaze “In my heart of hearts as I was finished before I went to surgery into the work for long periods of — LADY GAGA writing, I knew that if I asked there were giant craters, a hole in time for it to be good. I have that [the fans] to cheer for me before I my hip the size of a quarter, and feeling, that wonderful feeling, her. Gaga chose the cover image sang or if I alluded to the fact that the cartilage was just hanging out when me, Inez and Brandon look from the video shoot because she they would cheer for me before the other side of my hip. I had a at each other and we go, ‘It’s so thought it showed a different side I sang....They do that all the time tear on the inside of my joint and good. That’s the one.’” of her performance, a vulnerable for me; before I even open my part that the public doesn’t often mouth, the fans start cheering a huge breakage. The surgeon Van Lamsweerde and Matadin A favorite WWD cover girl since 2007 — Gaga’s first-ever cover — see. “It’s the end of the night for me. And so this exclamation, told me that if I had done another shot the “Applause” video about ’’ this marks her fifth time on WWD’s front page.

Photos by steve eichner; Giovanni Giannoni; Dominique maître; amy sussman/Getty imaGes; christoPher Polk/Getty imaGes; Jonathan short/aP/corbis; stePhane carDinale/PeoPle avenue/corbis; sPlash news/corbis; PhotoPress Pr/sPlash news/corbis; sharPshooter imaGes/sPlash news/corbis; Josie miner; mark Davis/cbs via Getty imaGes; kevin winter/Getty imaGes; Jeff kravitz/Getty imaGes; GreGG DeGuire/PictureGrouP; santi/sPlash news/corbis

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WhAt IS It GAGA’S LIvInG For? Applause, Applause ‘Give me that thing that I love. it like, I’m a pop icon, and [you completely naked. Armani and Hedi Slimane Give it to me. I’m ready, start the wonder] ‘Is this the image of the “There is a sense of for Saint Laurent are music.’ I’m from New York. I’ve album? Is this the direction? Who stripping bare and still in the mix, as is the worked since I was a five-year- came up with it?’ I think that’s so then putting things label Mila Schön, which old to be a performer. All my life. interesting because it’s exactly back on. That’s the created a few catsuits I deserve to be here. I’m ready.” the kind of thing we’re trying to process she’s going for “Applause.” “It’s Again, could these be lyrics? destroy. This is one jacket. This is through,” says more toned down and Since the beginning, ARTPOP one image. This is one moment. van Lamsweerde. pulled back and chic,” has been billed as not just This is one statement. “I always say to says Maxwell. “But it’s also an album but a “project,” a “When you watch each image her, ‘Look at you. that we’re making suits out multimedia experience that and you watch each thing come Yo u are incredibly of things that they would will include an app. As the out, they might not look exactly beautiful, accept not normally be made out title suggests, “the point [of the same,” says Gaga. “[I’m not] it. Don’t try to hide of, like plastic, but they’re ARTPOP] is that art and pop can defined by the same designer your face, just super well-tailored and have an exchange,” says Gaga. or defined by the same hair cut shine through.’ For clean. Maybe she’s just Van Lamsweerde said she and or defined by the same icon. her, it’s a part of wearing a simple catsuit Matadin have an image bank of The statement is that I’m not that not hiding and a head wrap like she’s 300 photos that they will try to one icon. I’m every icon. I’m an behind wigs wearing here, but we sort edit down with Gaga and “put it icon that is made out of all the and glasses and of do the craziness on the out there, whether in a museum, colors on the palette at every all kinds of face.” on the Internet, for a single cover time. I have no restrictions. stuff.” Her So, there are clues to or for the press — it all will have No restrictions.” Well, maybe stylist and Gaga’s new look, but what its moment.” one restriction: Gaga alluded fashion about ARTPOP’s sound, A directional fashion to artistic collaborations with director will it also be stripped component seems like a given Robert Wilson for the VMAs, Maxwell also engages in some down and minimal? from an artist who has embraced but declined to give specifics philosophical musings about Not necessarily. “It’s and been embraced by fashion, other than two more were the direction: “I think that this true Gaga,” says van both haute and experimental. forthcoming with Marina time it is about letting some Lamsweerde. “You can’t She mentions that the white Abramovic and Jeff Koons. of it go and the focus being on get it out of your head.” cloth that surrounds her in the If Gaga seeks to avoid the music because now she’s That’s it for details. “Applause” cover image is a coat labeling the fashion and visual comfortable being naked and Little Monsters will have to by Gareth Pugh. But when asked component of ARTPOP, it has being who she is. The world has wait for the VMAs, to which if he had a larger influence in the been deeply considered and seen everything.” But he also she famously arrived in an ARTPOP look, she responds with strategic, beginning with already- acknowledges that there will be egg in 2011, to see what Gaga part deflection, part abstraction, in-circulation images from her clothes, most of them custom. has in store. “I’m sending a turning the question back at the September cover shoot for V, Alexander Wang for Balenciaga doppelgänger,” she says. “I’m created some custom pieces. going this year as a fried egg A favorite WWD cover girl since 2007 — Gaga’s first-ever cover — reporter: “It’s interesting how again shot by van Lamsweerde Maxwell also said Versace, instead of hard-boiled.” this marks her fifth time on WWD’s front page. you view things, and you look at and Matadin, showing the star

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it Studio 323 New York, after He has restored important than the original. A request to its street number, and he now paintings; taken delivery of replicate a table base containing has four employees at Chánduví crates of valuable works of art an old propeller yielded a similar Restorations who are as young sent from abroad, and done all result. He tries never to turn and energetic as he is. kinds of antiques restoration. down a job. Recent clients include “I like that my clients know Some of his current assignments Christie’s, Hickey Freeman, the that I can work through the night involve fabricating artists’ work. TV series “The Good Wife” and to finish something, if I need to,” And he can also reproduce the Kips Bay Showhouse. he says. “They know I’m busy. many kinds of objects. Not Chánduví has rented a space It’s not like I’m just hanging long ago, a client asked him to in SoHo, too, and will have a out.” His employees seem to duplicate a Lucite Art Deco lamp. show of his large “paintings,” enjoy learning the restoration He had never made one before, created using metallic Mylar, processes, and they like the but he did some research, and the plaster and glass, in the fall. Jonathan variety of the projects, which can piece he created looked better — LORNA KOSKI Chánduví in his range from refurbishing an 18th- atelier with one century armchair to working on of his pieces from a piece of contemporary art. the diptych “The Chánduví has furnished his eye Eleventh Hour.” apartment and atelier with things bought in thrift shops and found on the street. He engages with the local community, teaching Restoration Drama art classes for children and displaying work that his neighbors JONATHAN CHÁNDUVÍ is on in 2010, after a long visit with bring to him. Graffiti artist George a mission. A third-generation his family at his grandparents’ “Sen” Morillo was included in member of an antiques- and art- home in Lima, he decided to the first show at 323 in 2011, and a restoring family that includes try to make it on his own. “I 2012 project involved filmmaker metalworkers, sculptors and needed to know that I had what Adelaide Benatar and artist gilders, Chánduví, 29, who it took,” he says. “I needed my Gabino Castelán. Two of Chánduví’s employees at emigrated with his family own dream.” He had a small nest At a first meeting with a client, work sanding the base for a table. from Lima, Peru, when he was egg, and he decided to check Chánduví — who resembles a nine, grew up in the business. into one of the few remaining Latin heartthrob from Hollywood’s He found this legacy both hostels in Manhattan, then had Golden Age, but looks younger than invaluable and burdensome. He cards printed which listed his cell he is —often finds that he’s being absorbed lessons on methods phone number. He didn’t even underestimated. “But then I show and materials while working have an address yet, but through them that I know my stuff,” he as his father’s apprentice, and a man who was a manager at the says, down to, say, “the size of bug” he was expected to take over hostel, he got one, in Spanish — cochineal — needed to make a the firm himself eventually. His Harlem. His friend wanted to traditional red dye. “Elegant aging” parents live in Connecticut, and return to his native Brazil, and he of objects and surfaces is another his father, Rómulo, is an expert offered Chánduví the chance to process he’s familiar with. on traditional wood carving. The take over his lease on a small two- “I’m at a point in life that I know younger Chánduví, who studied bedroom apartment in a dusty how to present myself, and the fact branding at Parsons, worked stretch of 108th Street opposite is that I know what I’m doing,” he with the Wadsworth Atheneum in a housing project. He asked his adds. “And clients get it. They realize, Hartford and on the Du Paquier new landlord if he could also take ‘This person has the knowledge, Vienna Porcelain show at the over a unisex hairstyling salon and exactly the materials, to see Metropolitan Museum of Art. below his apartment, which had it through completely.’ [On a long GEORGE CHINSEE But he was eager to start his been empty for five years, and project], I sometimes stay with Paula Kaczmarczyk at work restoring a wastebasket. Behind her are a china own enterprise, so much so that turn it into an atelier. He named them a whole month.” cabinet primed for handpainting and a painting given to Chánduví as a gift. PHOTOS BY

Jessica Hart Harley Viera Newton in M Missoni. with Chelsea Leyland Mixtape Mixer in M Missoni. M MISSONI pulled out all the “Bowden is actually my stops — and all the models — middle name now. My husband for a summer music soiree at [Ben Jorgensen] is super excited Le Bain and Rooftop at The about it. I’m kind of old- Standard hotel on Thursday fashioned — I’ve always wanted night. Erin Heatherton, Laura Love, to have my husband’s last Byrdie Bell, Ajak Deng, Becka Diamond, name,” she said. The two are Chloe Bridges, Lorenzo Martone and heading to Hawaii in September Cameron Silver joined hosts Atlanta for their honeymoon. de Cadenet Taylor, Hannah Bronfman Rachel Roy had just returned and Jessica Hart to celebrate the from the Aloha State herself. “I brand’s summer mixtape, made in use the summer months to travel, collaboration with Epic Records, to inspire myself,” she said. “And called “M Missoni Is for Music.” I go as much as possible to the Hart eschewed traditional country, too — I take my daughters summer vacation plans this year there to the ocean and try to for more cerebral pursuits. “I’m just remember what it is about actually learning French at the that monotonous sound that’s so moment,” she said. “I’ve been going beautiful, the waves and all that.” FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE to intensive classes with my friend.” Nicky Hilton, sunkissed from WWD.com/eye. The model, sporting a recent trips to Europe and L.A., slightly darker do than her said she was off to Ibiza the usual blonde, turned to a following week for her sister friend and pointed at one of the Paris’ DJ residency at the island’s hotel’s notorious hot tubs. “I Amnesia nightclub. Nearby, went in there once,” she said, photographer Alexis Dahan took a “but don’t tell anyone.” drag from his cigarette. “I love On the roof, guests noshed this song. It feels like 1:00 a.m. on miniature lobster rolls, right now,” he said. “I wanna burgers and snow cones spiked go out and party, but then I with Grey Goose while taking remember how early it still is.” in the Manhattan sunset and Singer and songwriter Sara unseasonably chilly weather. Mancuso, who records as Smokey DJs Chelsea Leyland and Harley Jones, took to the makeshift Viera Newton, clad in different stage and introduced her pianist. shades of pink, took care of the “We call him Mr. Fingers,” she evening’s soundtrack behind said, before launching into a sudden illness. Blackmore had wanted them to love me — it’s a booth emblazoned with the “Naked,” a soulful ballad from just returned to the States from my people,” she said. “That was EICHNER words “NO REQUESTS, XO.” the perspective of a scorned her New Zealand hometown, probably the most nervous I’ve EICHNER Katrina Bowden, who had just lover. Jones had stepped in for where her single “Bones” had ever been, actually. But you know, STEVE STEVE BY Erin returned from a friend’s wedding Los Angeles-based singer Ginny shot to number one within a week. I love America. I think I might be BY Heatherton in London, was keen to talk Blackmore, who ﬂew in for the “New Zealand’s a little here for the rest of my life.” — KRISTI GARCED PHOTOS about her own recent nuptials. party but couldn’t perform due to small, you know, but I really PHOTOS WWD MONDAY, JULY 29, 2013 15 WWD.COM

summer beauty trends, as well as items about singer Ellie goulding’s must-have MeMo pad products while on tour and Amanda Fashion scoops seyfried’s beauty routine. Chanel is the CLIQuE’s NEw BYRDIE: Clique Media first official sponsor for Byrdie, their is giving beauty a new perch online campaign launching the second week of PRADA DENIED: Milan’s courthouse has courtesy of Ralph Lauren. Denim & with Byrdie, a Web site launching August. — RAChEL sTRugATZ rejected Prada Group’s request to Supply Ralph Lauren partnered with today. hillary Kerr and Katherine Power, sequester the Cova brand, according the Swedish producer and DJ, and cofounders and chief executive ThIs JusT IN: Deborah Needleman, edi- to sources. coproduced the hit song’s music video, officers of Clique, said there was a tor in chief of T: The New York Times As reported, at the end of June, which launches on Vevo.com today. need for an online beauty venue that Style Magazine, is to receive the Lord & LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton Directed by Mark seliger, it features wasn’t a traditional magazine’s Web Taylor Fashion Oracle award at Fashion took a majority stake in Pasticceria the same cast as the Denim & Supply site, blog or a video tutorial. “We didn’t Group International’s Night of Stars Confetteria Cova Srl, owner of the Cova campaign (which Seliger also shot), see anything that came from a strong on Oct. 22. Prior to joining the New brand and of the Cova Montenapoleone decked out in Denim & Supply fall editorial point of view that really York Times, Needleman was editor in Srl firm that manages the Milanese looks. In a fusion of entertainment reported out, but still encompassed chief of WSJ. and edited the Wall Street coffee house. Prada has engaged in and commerce, the looks will be made the fun trends that aren’t as editorially Journal’s Saturday Off Duty section, a legal battle with Cova’s previous available for purchase next month. driven — like street style,” Kerr told and before, founded the now-defunct owners, the Faccioli family, contending “Avicii’s music, combined with Mark WWD. “[There are] not a lot of great Domino magazine. As FGI president earlier rights to the Cova brand, Seliger’s legendary experience shooting sites for beauty out there, and not a lot Margaret hayes put it, “She has had a very allegedly requesting the brand be fashion and music icons, has allowed us that cover celebrity beauty — which is impressive career in journalism and is sequestered, showing letters that to showcase the brand to our customers our secret sauce, that seems like a big held in the highest esteem by her col- would prove previous binding contracts in an entirely new way,” said David open space.” leagues.” — MARC KARIMZADEh with the Italian luxury goods house. A Lauren, Ralph Lauren’s executive vice Power added, “At a certain point, Prada spokesman declined especially as more and more beauty MINKoFF’s PLAYFuL MooD: Rebecca comment. — LuIsA ZARgANI A behind-the-scenes image of brands started advertising, we felt Minkoff is taking a primarily digital Avicii’s “wake Me up” video with that there was a need, approach to her fall NEw hEAD FoR DIEsEL u.s.: Denim & supply Ralph Lauren. a huge hole, just like advertising. Her Tommaso Brusò, former we saw a huge hole budget, which is up 200 president and chief executive for [fashion with] percent from a year officer of Furla USA Inc., has WhoWhatWear in 2006. ago, will be allocated been appointed ceo of Diesel There was nothing then to Web sites such as USA, effective Aug. 19. — it was Perez hilton.” Style.com, among other Brusò succeeds Cristiano Clique’s fashion and media Quieti, who left Diesel this fashion-orientated sites. The campaign, year to become president WhoWhatWear and which begins in and ceo of John Varvatos the recently added August, features model Enterprises. home site Domaine Aline weber and was Brusò spent five years see a combined 23 photographed by Ben with Furla following four million page views per weller in Brooklyn. years as ceo of Fedon month. Clique’s beauty “We thought Aline America and filling previous roles with president of advertising, marketing and director, Britt Aboutaleb, perfectly exemplified Benetton and ER SpA. corporate communications. formerly of Elle and the Rebecca Minkoff “Growing up in Venice, Italy, Diesel — MARC KARIMZADEh Fashionista, will girl...cool, confident, is a brand that I have long admired and oversee the publishing fun-loving, with great am truly passionate about,” he said. whAT’s IN sToRE: The flagship Saint of three feature stories Rebecca Minkoff is planning digital personal style,” said “Equipped with my business experience Laurent boutique on Avenue Montaigne a day on Byrdie. There ads for fall. Minkoff. She said she in New York and deep understanding in Paris is to close for renovation in will also be internal wanted to show a more of the U.S. market developed here over August — only three months after blogs and posts from third-party blogs. playful edge this season, and used an up- the last 13 years, I am ready to take the opening its doors — WWD has learned. The site will launch with a feature and-coming illustrator, Madeleine Carroll and company to the next level.” According to sources, the black concrete starring Brit Marling highlighting “cool collage effect.” — LIsA LoCKwooD stefano Rosso, co-ceo of OTB SpA, floor is among elements that designer Diesel’s parent, commented, “The hedi slimane, the mastermind of the new United States has always inspired our marble-heavy retail concept, wishes to family and is where denim heritage alter. A YSL spokesman said the company originates. It is already one of our most chose to open ahead of men’s fashion important markets, but we believe we week and couture week in Paris — which will have a lot of opportunity fell in late June and early for growth.” For more July — to “introduce the Brusò will report to Rosso scoops, see new architectural concept For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. and his co-ceo, Marina Tosin, and the new collections,” until a new ceo of Diesel WWD.com. and that “August’s typically global is appointed. That post calmer pace allowed for an has been vacant since the opportunity to finalize and April departure of Daniela Riccardi, who perfect the space for the beginning Spaces was named ceo of Baccarat in May. of the season.” — MILEs soChA — ARNoLD J. KARR COMMERCIAL BuBBLINg uP: Made Fashion Week and REAL ESTATE CoRoNATIoN CouTuRE: To mark the 60th Italian beer maker Peroni Nastro New York Embroidery Studio HANDBAG anniversary of the Queen’s coronation, Azzurro have enlisted Coco Rocha, Antonio Beading, Laser Cutting, Smocking, Tucking novelty embellishments NYC, China & India SAMPLEMAKER an exhibition of royal clothes, “The Berardi, Jenné Lombardo, Zanna Roberts Rassi 212-971-9101 [email protected] Handbag factory needs experienced pattern and sample maker. All materi- Queen’s Coronation 1953,” has opened and designer Nolan Bellavance as judges PATTERNS, SAMPLES, als: leather, fabric, exotic. 341 W 38th at Her Royal Highness’ London for their second annual young talent PRODUCTIONS St 3fl. Apply in person. 33rd-57th St West-All Sizes Full service shop to the trade. residence, Buckingham Palace. search. Unlike last year’s prize, which Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 Menswear Showrooms RECEPTIONIST While she is in Balmoral, Scotland, was won by Bellavance and eligible D. Levy Adams & Co. 212-679-5500 Fast paced company needs expd for her summer holiday, the palace is only to recent graduates of Parsons Top Accessories Executive receptionist to handle heavy phone Showrooms & Lofts Looking for a successful company who volume. Must be able to multi task. open to the public, who will be able The New School For Design, this year’s BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS wants to continue their sales growth. Email resumes to: to see some of the most significant competition is open to any aspiring Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Please call: 516 441 2910 [email protected] ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 costumes worn at the coronation. “For designer in New York, Los Angeles or me the really special element of it has Miami. Starting today, organizers are been putting on display her incredible seeking, via Peroni’s Facebook page, coronation dress designed by Norman applicants at least 25 years old — lest Hartnell, her beautiful coronation watchdogs think Peroni is marketing NOTICE IS GIVEN that all property and assets of Aloebiotics Research Labs, Inc. robe made by Ede & Ravenscroft and even tangentially to underage drinkers (d/b/a Sustainable Youth Technologies) ("Aloebiotics"), including but not limited to all accounts, inventory, equipment, general intangibles, patents, patent applica- embroidered by the Royal School of — who will submit original sketches tions, trademarks, trade names, trade dress and all other intellectual property, con- Needlework,” said curator Caroline de and mood boards. After being culled tracts, contract rights and books and records (collectively, the "Sale Collateral") will be sold by Mellon Bank N.A. and Elizabeth St Clair Hurtt, trustees, under Deed SALES guitaut. “[We are] bringing together these down to 15 semifinalists, the judging of Trust of William C. Hurtt, dated February 6, 1998, for the benefit of Eleanor St Experienced Accessories Salesperson robes, dresses and uniforms worn by panel will select three finalists, one Clair Hurtt - Fund A-2-GST Non-Exempt Trust (the "Secured Party"), to the highest wanted. Contact qualified bidder at a PUBLIC SALE on Tuesday, August 13, 2013 at 10:00am ET at [email protected] other members of the royal family that from each city, to be flown to New York Reed Smith LLP, Princeton Forrestal Village, 136 Main Street, Suite 250, Prince- have not been reunited for 60 years.” to present their design visions during ton, NJ 08540. Aloebiotics develops and markets patent-protected organic skincare and other products made with ingredients that may provide anti-aging of Queen Elizabeth II ascended to the a fashion week event at Milk Studios the skin. A deposit of 20% of the purchase price of the Sale Collateral must be paid at the time of the sale and the remaining purchase price must be paid within throne on Feb. 6, 1952, was crowned at on Sept. 10, where the winner will also 48 hours of the sale, each in immediately available funds, except that Secured Par- Westminster Abbey on June 2, 1953, and be announced. The Made for Peroni ty may pay the purchase price by crediting it against the unpaid balance of the loan secured by the Sale Collateral. Any prospective purchaser must purchase sparked the “new Elizabethan era.” Young Designer Award carries a $40,000 the Sale Collateral for its own investment and account and not for subsequent re- The exhibition “The Queen’s prize, half earmarked for producing the sale or distribution. PROSPECTIVE PURCHASERS MUST PARTICIPATE IN THE SALE IN PERSON. FOR MORE INFORMATION, CONTACT BRIAN M. SCHENKER, Coronation 1953” at Buckingham designer’s first collection and half for ESQ. AT 215-851-8100. Palace runs from July 27 to Sept. 29. staging a presentation at Made Fashion — LoRELEI MARFIL Week in February. Rocha heralded the competition as “a once-in-a-lifetime VIDEo FAshIoN: Avicii’s “Wake Me Up,” opportunity for one young, talented (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] already the fastest-selling single of this fashion designer to launch his or her year, is getting a fashionable boost, career.” — DAVID LIPKE

w29a015b;5.indd 15 7/28/13 3:30 PM 07282013153105 16 WWD MONDAY, JULY 29, 2013 WWD.COM PVH Sets Course for Gehring, Murry Former Tiffany Executive

Klein Inc., respectively, upon Hilfiger and Calvin Klein busi- By ARNOLD J. KARR confirmation by PVH chairman ness operations in Asia and Pleads Guilty in Theft Case and ceo Emanuel Chirico that South America.” her husband in transactions she PVH CORP. has set the stage their successors are ready to Murry, formerly the presi- By ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD set up, or a friend working on for the next generation of assume their duties. The two dent of Tahari Ltd., joined her behalf. Bharara referenced leadership of its Calvin Klein, executives subsequently will Calvin Klein Inc. in 1996, be- NEW YORK — Ingrid more than 75 checks written by Tommy Hilfiger and interna- have their hours, salaries and came president and chief op- Lederhaas-Okun, former vice the reseller, which ranged in tional operations. bonus opportunities cut in erating officer in 1999 and was president of product develop- value from $7,525 to $47,400, and The company said in a fil- half. Murry’s base salary is cur- promoted to president and ceo ment at Tiffany & Co., pled totaled $1.3 million. ing with the Securities and rently $1 million, and Gehring’s in 2008. PVH acquired Calvin guilty in New York federal court Tiffany became wise to Exchange Commission that 950,000 euros, or about $1.3 Klein in 2003. on Friday to stealing more than Lederhaas-Okun’s scheme in Fred Gehring, chief executive million at current exchange. Integration has been a prev- $2.1 million worth of jewelry November, following an internal officer of both Tommy Hilfiger Gehring has been affiliated alent theme since the February from the upscale jeweler. inventory review. The exec had re- and international operations, with Tommy Hilfiger since be- acquisition of The Warnaco Arrested on July 2 at her home ported roughly $1.5 million worth and Tom Murry, ceo of Calvin coming ceo of the company’s Group Inc. for $2.9 billion as in Darien, Conn., Lederhaas- Klein Inc., have signed new European licensee in 1997. PVH has been challenged both Okun, 46, faces up to 46 months employment contracts detailing He remained in that role fol- to improve the Calvin Klein in prison after agreeing to plead how they will begin to transi- lowing the licensee’s acquisi- Jeans business and to upgrade guilty to one count of interstate tion out of their current full- tion by Tommy Hilfiger and that business and others previ- transportation of stolen property. time ceo roles and into new became ceo of the firm in ously owned by Warnaco. This offense normally carries part-time capacities as execu- 2006. He retained the ceo spot “This year we’ve really a maximum penalty of 10 years tive chairmen. after PVH’s 2010 acquisition characterized, from a finan- in prison. Initially, she had also Gehring will begin the proof the brand and subsequently cial point of view, 2013 as a been charged with one count cess no earlier than one year added responsibility for PVH’s transition year,” Chirico said of wire fraud, which carries a and no more than three years European and international at the company’s annual meet- maximum penalty of 20 years in after the effective date of July operations. ing last month. “We are stabi- jail, but that charge was not men- 1 while Murry is scheduled to PVH noted in the SEC fil- lizing the Warnaco businesses, tioned in the plea agreement. change his role in mid-2016. ing that Gehring is “expected integrating those Warnaco As part of her deal with au- Gehring, 58, and Murray, 62, to perform an advisory role businesses, beginning to put thorities, the executive, who will become executive chair- on the future plans to gradu- them on our systems and oper- reportedly worked at Tiffany men of PVH Europe and Calvin ally integrate PVH’s Tommy ating platform.” since 1991, agreed to forfeit $2.1 Tiffany & Co. fired Ingrid Lederhaas- million and further agreed to re- Okun in February. store $2.2 million. “Diamonds are forever but of jewelry that she had checked Tandy Brands Secures New Financing stolen diamonds are not,” said out would have to be written off. Manhattan U.S. attorney Preet But, according to court papers, TANDY BRANDS ACCESSORIES Inc. has secured 7 cents or 10 percent. They’d fallen as low as 38 Bharara. “Over a period of Tiffany claimed that none of that new financing to replace its frequently extended cents on April 17 after Tandy disclosed that it years, Ingrid Lederhaas-Okun, inventory was ever returned, “con- credit facility with Wells Fargo Bank, due to expire had fallen out of compliance with the terms of an executive at a high-end jewel- trary to the usual practice,” such on Wednesday. its Wells Fargo loan. It said in March it would ry company, looted her employ- as in the case of damaged jewelry, The Dallas-based accessories business, which streamline its facilities and cut nearly a third of er’s jewelry inventory and then which would have had to be writ- fell out of compliance with the profitability re- its workforce. resold millions of dollars’ worth ten off because it had been “ren- quirements of its Wells Fargo facility after a Concurrently, the company ended its four-month of the merchandise in order to dered unusable in some way.” difficult holiday season in its gifts business, re- relationship with Deloitte Financial Advisory enrich herself. Today, she stands To cover her tracks, she said ceived $29 million in senior financing from Salus Services and eliminated the position of chief re- convicted for her thievery and she had only recently checked Capital Partners, $27.5 million of it in a revolv- structuring officer that had been held during that faces the prospect of prison.” out the missing baubles in ing credit package. An additional $11.5 million period by John Little of Deloitte’s Dallas office. From at least January 2011 anticipation of “creating a came from King Trade Capital and is earmarked “The reductions have been completed, and until this February — when PowerPoint presentation for her for the purchase of inventory related to the we can go forward remaining focused on our she was fired by Tiffany — supervisor,” but that presenta- problematic holiday season in gifts. portfolio of brands,” McGeachy said. “In gifts, Lederhaas-Okun had begun tion could not be found. The financing was secured through the com- we’ll be servicing fewer customers with a more “checking out” more than 165 She also claimed the jewelry pany’s assets, with Salus holding a first-priority streamlined product offering. And we’ll have pieces jewelry with a retail could be found in an envelope lien on everything but the gifts merchandise fi- more aggressive pricing to replace traditional value of more than $1.2 million. in her office, but that, too, was nanced through King. end-of-season return privileges.” Her haul included numerous never found. The company didn’t specify the interest per- He said Tandy had “effectively reduced the diamond bracelets, platinum or Lederhaas-Okun’s crime came centages attached to the two lines of credit. risk associated with our gifts business and [we] gold diamond drop and hoop ear- as a shock to many industry in- However, Rod McGeachy, president and chief believe the profitability of this segment will be rings, platinum diamond rings siders, who had worked with the executive officer, said the firm achieved its goal greatly improved in fiscal 2014.” and platinum and diamond pen- jewelry executive over the years. of putting its capital structure into a better posi- In the third quarter ended March 31, Tandy dants. She then sold some, if not Several sources, who spoke tion without hurting its shareholders. had a net loss of $8.5 million as sales slipped all the jewelry, for $1.3 million to on the condition of anonymity, “What we wanted to avoid was any equity 17.9 percent to $19.6 million. The loss included a “leading international buyer used words like “nice,” “prep- dilution of our current shareholders,” he told pretax charges of $5.6 million to cover restruc- and reseller of jewelry with an py” and “pleasant” to describe WWD Friday. “It was important to us that the turing and impairment. office in midtown Manhattan,” the former Tiffany employee. deal didn’t have an equity component, and it Since being founded in 2011, Salus has pro- according to court papers. Lederhaas-Okun is sched- gave us the incremental liquidity we needed to vided financing for W Diamond, Kitson and The reseller paid for the sto- uled to be sentenced in New move forward.” bankrupt Bakers Footwear Group, among others. len merchandise either by pay- York federal court by Judge Paul Shares of Tandy Friday closed at 72 cents, up — A.J.K. ing Lederhaas-Okun herself, or Gardephe on Dec. 10 at 2:30 p.m.

to partner with Elie Tahari and Arthur Lepore and Bluestar, Among Others, in Talks Levine. Bluestar also reached out to other designers, such as Charlotte Ronson, to see Sources emphasized that Lepore is particularly if the IP owner then gives if any might be interested in pursuing talks. By VICKI M. YOUNG seeking an investor who can partner with another licensee ownership of a new Financial sources speak highly of her and Savage to grow the business, not territory for distribution. Gabbay and Gindi, noting that they’ve done NANETTE LEPORE is moving closer to a for the couple to exit the firm or the That apparently was a key a great job building the firm from scratch. final decision on an investor, possibly within fashion industry. Credit sources said stumbling point for Lepore. Although once believed to be limited to the next month or two, financial sources said. Lepore has a well-respected brand, Having an investor take a smaller deals since most investors they These individuals said Lepore and her and the business has good cash flow. stake, and essentially becoming a pulled in were from the Syrian and Jewish husband, Robert Savage, chief executive of- Neither Lepore nor Joseph partner, is the far better deal for community, that perception changed when ficer of Nanette Lepore, are in discussions Gabbay, the cofounder of Bluestar, both a designer and an investor. Bluestar last year joined forces with Carlyle with several potential investors. Additional could be reached for comment. One investment banker said that Group, the world’s second-biggest private discussions and meetings with these inves- Market sources said one key brands that no longer have the equity firm, to bid for bankrupt men’s firm tors are taking place this week, according issue with a brand management designer attached to the compa- HMX Group. It lost to another brand man- to a source familiar with the talks. firm is how much involvement ny tend to be worth less. Having agement firm, Authentic Brands Group. One of those in negotiations with Lepore the owner still wants in the business. the designer’s input develops the Bluestar’s umbrella of brands includes is Bluestar Alliance, a brand management Brand management firms own the intel- brand and helps both sides capture English Laundry, Kooba, Kensie, Mac & Jac firm, according to several financial sources. lectual property of the brand, but aren’t the upside as the company grows, and Harvé Benard. It also once owned a These contacts said Bluestar last month operators. They build relationships with this banker said. stake in Liz Lange Maternity, sold in 2012 to made an offer to acquire outright the intel- licensees to leverage the brand equity and Bluestar, founded in 2006 by Cherokee Inc., and Ron Chereskin Studio, lectual property of the brand, with Lepore expand into other categories to grow the Gabbay and Ralph Gindi, has been suc- sold in 2010 to J.E.M. International Inc. taking ownership of the license and the consumer base. The former owner who cessful in moderate midtier distribu- Lepore started the business with a running of the day-to-day operations. They takes back the license risks getting moved tion, but is now eyeing firms higher up $5,000 loan from her father and now has also said the offer was rejected by the fash- out of the business if minimums aren’t met. on the fashion food chain. Financial and 11 stores, including outposts in New JOHN AQUINO ion firm. Talks are still ongoing between And once the IP is sold, the former A look from market sources said Bluestar York, Los Angeles, London, Shanghai and Bluestar and Lepore, although this time owner has no say on future distribu- Lepore’s fall had taken a look at Catherine Tokyo. The designer also has a line at J.C.

PHOTO BY for a lesser stake in the ﬁrm. tion or the direction of the brand, collection. Malandrino, who later elected Penney, L’amour Nanette Lepore. WWDAccessories Section II

QCUSTOM SPECS

QHARRODS GETS A MAKEOVER

QSWAROVSKI GOES SHOW BIZ

SHINE IS... …Colorful pieces that sparkle through holiday festivities and into resort. For more that glistens, see pages 6 to 8.

PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; SET STYLIST: TYLER RESTY; STYLED BY ROXANNE ROBINSON

From top: Sirak’s calfskin and leather shoe with metal alloy ornament; Michelle’s diamond and black mother-of-pearl dial watch with glitter-embellished leather strap; Yliana Yepez’s rainbow metallic python clutch with metallic leather trim, and Christian Roth’s acetate and

blue mirror-coated sunglasses. DEL VALLE AND CASSAUNDRA GAUDIO SARAH ASSISTANTS: FASHION

2 WWD MONDAY, JULY 29, 2013

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWDACCESSORIES/IN THE MIX BY THE NUMBERS: EASTERN PROMISE SHOPPERS IN EMERGING markets such as the Middle East and China are increasingly gobbling up LIFE WITH ARCHIE The Veronica European fashion and luxury goods in their home mar- TALK ABOUT comedic timing. suede pump and kets — and from a young age. British shoe designer Archie comic book In the United Arab Emirates, teenagers spend $100 a Charlotte Olympia, who is clutch by Charlotte month on clothing and accessories, more than six times known for her cheeky and play- Olympia. the global average for their peer group, according to a ful design themes for her collec- recent report by Chalhoub Group for Walpole, which tions (like Hollywood and Grimm’s represents Britain’s high-end industries. fairy tales), launched her resort col- According to Chalhoub’s study “Luxury in the lection this June with an all-Ameri- Middle East: An Easy Sell?” local shoppers from the can Fifties teenager theme. Jukebox UAE, Saudi Arabia, Qatar, Bahrain and Oman spend an motifs boogied on booties, letter average of $1,300 monthly on clothing and accessories, sweaters were turned into wedges of which $700 goes to apparel and $300 to shoes. That and soda-shop confections were compares with $120 and $15, respectively, in the U.K. whipped into ice cream-treat designs A separate study by KPMG, “Global Reach of China on shoes. Luxury,” said the Chinese shopper has very firm ideas So what better time to pair up about provenance and the power of European heritage with another all-American boy — brands when it comes to luxury goods. Switzerland is Archie Andrews from Archie Comics tops for luxury watches, while France is number one — and depict his love triangle with Betty and for cosmetics, perfumes, clothes and bags. Veronica through a series of witty accessories? comics back with her,” she recalled. “I still read It was a natural fit for Olympia, given her them today. I especially love Betty and Veronica, penchant for retro styles. they have that retro pin-up look that I adore.” “When I was 10 years old, my best friend used Archie Comics copresident and editor in chief to go to America every holiday and bring Archie Victor Gorelick was not familiar with the high- end shoe line when King Features Inc. $100 called him about the licensing oppor- AVERAGE AMOUNT SPENT PER MONTH tunity. While Archie Comics had final approval on the designs, Gorelick ON CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES BY said this might be the most high-brow TEENAGERS IN THE UNITED ARAB EMIRATES. merchandise to sport the Riverdale crew. “The girls were a perfect fit for Also according to the study, Europe and Asia have the shoes. I think my wife fits the seen a major increase in the number of Chinese tour- sample,” mused Gorelick. ists buying watches. “In 10 years, the watch category Styles include suede pumps has grown significantly because of the strength of the (red for Betty, blue for Veronica) market and people wanting to sell here. We see a tro- with comic bubble quotes at $1,095; phy market being formed and a shift in terms of tastes,” a comic print wedge, $1,295, and said a spokesman for the auction house Christie’s Asia. a clutch that resembles a folded The KPMG study also showed that of the Chinese comic book, $1,595. consumers who bought watches overseas in 2012, “Archie Comics introduced the 43 percent used multibrand shops; 39 percent went world to the question ‘are you a to nonairport duty-free stores; 33 percent relied on Betty or a Veronica,’” said Frank stand-alone shops; 14 percent bought at airports, Caruso, vice president of creative and another 14 percent turned to department stores. at King Features, “and that question Geographically speaking, the highest percentage of has reemerged once again in these watch purchases was made in Hong Kong, Taiwan and exclusive limited-edition designs Macao. from Charlotte Olympia.” A spokesman for the Oriental Watch Co., which The shoes and bag land in stores has a flagship in central Hong Kong, said he expects in November and will be sold at Mainland China’s growing middle class to drive watch Charlotte Olympia boutiques in sales in Hong Kong in the long term. “Particularly be- London, New York and Los Angeles cause of the VAT price differentials, which still make it as well as nordstrom.com and an attractive shopping destination.” onpedder.com. — SAMANTHA CONTI — ROXANNE ROBINSON

SCARVES TO DYE FOR as a pharmaceutical chemist, attributed the grow- CLAUDIO CUTULI KNOWS a thing or two about ing success of the family’s 175-year-old business to scarves, since his family has been weaving and dye- “Italian know-how and artisan craftsmanship,” adding them since 1838. ing that fashion products must now “hit your senses In full respect of this heritage, Cutuli is build- in an emotional way,” given that customers are in- ing the business by maintaining production en- creasingly attentive in their shopping, yet jaded by tirely in Italy, in the Umbria region, and growing the quantity of goods on the market. his own plants and crops to make Cutuli was upbeat about business in Asia, natural fabric dyes for a veritable in Japan and China, and in particular in botanical feast. Red onion from the U.S., which showed a 34 percent Tropea; woad, a ﬂowering plant increase for the fall collection. that yields a blue dye; a yellow There are 46 points of sale flower called Ginestrella dei for the brand there, Carbonai; pomegranate rind; including Bergdorf poppy flower; blueberry; Goodman, Barneys licorice from the Southern New York, Louis region of Calabria, and ju- Boston, and Maxwell niper are just a few of the and Traffic in Los ingredients Cutuli inte- Angeles. The entre- grates in his imaginative preneur said two designs, working with stores would open the softest fabrics, in- this year in Rome and cluding textiles made Milan. There is one ex- with nettle or broom isting unit in Italy’s sea yarns, cashmere and town of Maratea. silk. Reptile inserts, Revenues last year totaled Tibetan goat fur, mink 4.9 million euros, or $6.3 million Claudio Cutuli and ermine further at average exchange. Sales are expected uses dyes from enrich the pieces. to gain between 30 and 35 percent in 2013, said Cutuli, vegetables The brand Claudio Cutuli and the more whose company produces around 35,000 pieces annu- and ﬂowers precious Cutuli Cult are available at around 600 ally, each wholesaling at upwards of 170 euros, or $223 to create points of sale globally. at current exchange. his colorful The energetic and affable Cutuli, who studied — LUISA ZARGANI scarves. Luxottica Group – Styles: Mom RX5154 / Tinker Bell RJ9052S Tinker Mom RX5154 / Luxottica Group – Styles:

ray-ban.com 4 WWD MONDAY, JULY 29, 2013

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWDACCESSORIES/IN THE MIX Shwood’s slate-framed sunglasses. EVERYTHING IN ITS PLACE FORM FOLLOWS FASHION for German accessories NATURAL HIGH designer Lili Radu. The Frankfurt-based 31-year- EIGHT YEARS AGO, Eric Singer was like a lot old started her label just two years ago. Her color- of high school graduates — unemployed and drenched leather bags, wallets and clutches combine broke. pop with practicality and have garnered collabora- His father was a hobbyist in woodcrafting, tions with some pretty big partners — including and Eric spent his days messing around in Apple. Dad’s woodshop in Canby, Ore., whittling end Radu is the first German designer to receive this tables and custom interior parts for his car. nod from the creative computing giant. Her three- “Ever since I was little, I played in my dad’s piece line of iPad and laptop cases — in tones of woodshop,” Singer said. “My dad passed away, black/beige or royal blue/hot pink — launched in but I kept playing in his shop and learned how April exclusively in Apple Europe’s online store, to make things through trial and error.” priced from 199.95 to 299.95 euros, or $261 to $391 at But Singer had other passions as well. He current exchange. was an avid snowboarder and skater, and he col- Other functional but feminine accessory designs lected vintage sunglasses. Inspired by his collec- from Radu include a sought-after book-size zippered tion, he melded all his hobbies when he cut a wallet-by-day, clutch-by-night that includes special Lili Radu’s case for an Apple laptop. branch from the Madrone tree in his neighbor’s spaces for all the daily essentials — not just a smart- backyard and decided to carve a frame — in a phone, pen and credit card, but also a Chanel com- perfectly formed slot. The treasure-packed beauty style popular with the skate crowd. pact and lipstick (retail price 199.95 euros). case will sell for 349 euros ($455) and come in royal Using hinges he pilfered from the vanity in Beauty comes center stage in Radu’s next collabo- blue/hot pink and taupe/orange, each with a draw- his mother’s bathroom, he attached the tem- ration with Swedish makeup brand Face Stockholm, string storage bag. ples and inserted lenses from an old pair of slated for launch in September. The limited-edition, Lili Radu accessories are available on the brand’s sunglasses. zip-up makeup cases will be filled with an assort- Web site; in boutiques in Germany, Switzerland, He took his new creation to a skate park ment of nine items from the cosmetics line, from Austria, France, Spain, Norway, Denmark and South where fellow skateboarders, impressed by powder to blush to eyeliner — each fit into its own Korea, and in Europe on apple.com. — SUSAN STONE Singer’s look, put in orders. Selling the frames for $20 a pop, Singer decided that he could make sunglasses and it would still leave him plenty of time to snowboard. ACCESSORIZING AMERICA the U.K., Germany, Italy and France, and the average Over the next few years, Singer, who lived in MONNIER FRÈRES, THE fashion and luxury acces- checkout is 600 euros, or $786. his car and, later, on a tour bus with snowboard- sories Web site launched by two French brothers in “My brother and I noticed the relationship women ing friends, traveled with a hand drill to make 2011, plans to take on North America in September. had with their accessories, their handbags in par- The site carries more than 100 brands ranging ticular, and saw a business opportunity,” said Jean Eric from Burberry, Marni, Valextra and Vanessa Bruno to Monnier, who has a long history in e-commerce — he Singer at Kenneth Jay Lane, Shourouk and Ray-Ban. It’s aiming launched Auchan Direct, the Web site for the French work. for the high-end shopper with the breadth and depth of retailing giant. His brother Guillaume worked most its offering — and exclusive styles. recently at Dior, as head of merchandising for the company’s Japanese subsidiary. “Our aim is to offer the widest and smartest choice in accessories,” said Monnier, adding that his inspiration is Net-a-Porter rather than Amazon. Among the exclusive styles for fall are bags by Vanessa Bruno, Phillip Lim, Rachael Ruddick and Paula Cademartori. Investors in Monnier Frères and sell sunglasses. Persuaded by four friends Guillaume and Jean Monnier and include the family who would become his business partners, their Monnier Frères Web site. behind the Belgian Singer launched his company, Shwood, in 2009. retailer Louis Based in Canby, Shwood gained traction Delhaize; Internet fast. Within the first week of launching, a blog- Indeed, the only accessories categories that found- entrepreneur Marc Simoncini, and Françoise ger wrote about the brand’s handmade wooden ers Jean and Guillaume Monnier do not sell are foot- Montenay, the former president of Chanel and a sunglasses and the company garnered more wear and high-end jewelry. The site offers 24-hour member of its supervisory board. than 200 orders. At the time, the shades sold shipping anywhere in Europe and 30-day returns, and Going forward, the goal is “to go deeper and deeper for between $95 and $125. But there was a plans to replicate that service in the U.S. with simi- into accessories,” said Monnier. “That is what we want labor issue: “I was making only about five pairs lar delivery times to major cities such as New York, to be known for.” a day,” said Singer, who was overwhelmed by Boston and Philadelphia. There are local Web sites in — SAMANTHA CONTI the response. “I thought, ‘We’re going to fail before we start.’” Team Shwood began staffing up and now employs some 50 craftspeople. It expanded Tiziana the collection, which now ranges from $125 to Fausti’s Fedra DESIGNING WOMAN $350. Today, Shwood, which recently launched shopper. VETERAN FASHION retailer Tiziana Fausti has a pair of frames made of stone — slate from made her debut as an accessories designer. Germany, to be exact — sells its wares in more Fausti, who owns a high-end store in Bergamo, than 300 locations worldwide and on its Web Italy, and who recently inaugurated a boutique in site, shwoodshop.com. Still made in Oregon, Lugano, Switzerland, has designed a luxury shop- the collection can be found at retailers such as ping bag and is selling it on her Web site and in her Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s, Urban Outfitters stores. Named Fedra (after Fausti’s mother), the tote and Saks Fifth Avenue. is available in two sizes and is handmade in Italy by Although he hasn’t retired his snowboard, local artisans. Singer now spends his days focused on prod- Featuring hunting-inspired details and eques- uct. The firm produces 120 frames a day and trian references, Fedra is “elegant yet practical,” roughly 20,000 pairs a year, and is gearing up Fausti said. “This bag really reflects my taste, mixing to launch a slew of collections made from natu- luxury with functionality.” ral materials. The bag comes in a leather version that includes “We didn’t know anything in the begin- a detachable clutch inside, and in crocodile. Prices ning. We just wanted to make something cool,” range from 880 euros, or $1,165 at current exchange, Singer chuckled. “I guess the drive for success to 9,000 euros, or $11,910. kind of came naturally.” — ALESSANDRA TURRA — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD

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SHINE IS…smooth and matte leather.

From top: Jil Sander zyl sunglasses; Chelsea Paris metallic leather pump; DKNY stainless steel with gold-tone mirror dial and leather strap watch; Etienne Aigner metallic patent leather satchel, and Cole Haan gold specchio leather sandal.

PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; SET STYLIST: TYLER RESTY; STYLED BY ROXANNE ROBINSON WWD MONDAY, JULY 29, 2013 7 WWD.COM

SHINE IS…sparkling gems.

From top: Judith Leiber acetate sunglasses with genuine Austrian crystals; SHINE ON Canfora glass-jeweled and leather sandal; Armitron Swarovski crystal silver- There are many ways to glow for holiday and resort. tone bracelet with mother- of-pearl dial watch; Kate Spade metal and Swarovski crystals clutch; Trina Turk resin cuff with Swarovski crystals, and Gabriele Frantzen Swarovski crystal and plated base metal necklace.

FASHION ASSISTANTS: SARAH GAUDIO AND CASSAUNDRA DEL VALLE DEL VALLE AND CASSAUNDRA GAUDIO SARAH ASSISTANTS: FASHION 8 WWD MONDAY, JULY 29, 2013

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WWDACCESSORIES

SHINE IS…classic gold and glitter. From top: Juicy Couture acetate and glitter sunglasses; Marc by Marc Jacobs cracked leather bootie; Michael Kors crystal pavé-encrusted case and chain-link bracelet with gold- tone dial watch; Erickson Beamon 24-karat vermeil and Swarovski crystal necklace, and Elena Ghisellini calfskin and PVC clutch.

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My Specs Garage Rock custom frame from Oakley. According to My Specs Customizing eyewear online is becoming a habit. By Marcy Medina

EVEN THOUGH THERE are eyewear options aplen- FitLive software that allows customers to see what erage price point for a custom pair of glasses is about ty online, customers are still clamoring for custom- their frames look like on from every angle. $20 more than regular frames and ranges from $150 ization within the category. Along with competitive So far, the average purchase has been two differ- to upwards of $300 retail. pricing for high-quality frames — which gave rise to ent frames or color combinations. “We are just scratching the surface with custom- online-only brands such as Warby Parker, Lookmatic “When people go to retail and glasses are $500 to ization. We see growth opportunity in goggles, appar- and Eyefly — the ability to personalize one’s optical $600 a pair and they see them here for $84, why not el and accessories, too,” Vaughan said. While product and sunglass frames is poised to become the new nor- buy two or three pairs?” he said. is key, so is enhancing the customer experience both mal. From fashion to function, here’s a look at three Inventory is manageable because the temple fits online and in-store. “It’s also about engagement and companies that are putting their own spin on custom. into every frame style. “If one color or style doesn’t custom is going to be at the forefront of building an sell well, we don’t have as much inventory, whereas experience for consumers, giving them more choice if you have specific sku’s, you’re stuck with them.” and more options. That’s going to be the way to build Made will offer new colors and styles each season. the brand going forward.” Eventually Hundert plans to add brick-and-mortar retail to the mix. “The general understanding is that ADIDAS PERFORMANCE SUN the brick-and-click concept is really the future; on- At Adidas, the customization is focused on fit more line only is pretty much a temporary business model. than on style. From the beginning of its eyewear pro- I have ideas for mobile retail units, capsule collec- gram 14 years ago, the sporting goods giant has offered tions, everything ranging from normal to crazy.” fit-customized Adidas Performance Sun, produced by Austrian eyewear maker Silhouette. All of its styles come in two sizes, with tri-fit temples and lenses that tilt three ways. The standard nose bridges have a double snap, allowing the wearer to adjust either side closer to the face, or extended bridges can be ordered if, say, a customer has extremely long eyelashes and Made’s customizing process online. needs the lenses further away from the face. “We think about taking fit to another level,” said MADE EYEWEAR Heinz Pichler, eyewear manager of Adidas U.S. Made Eyewear, launched in June by Kevin Hundert, “Since the beginning it has been a sport brand, and grandson of REM Eyewear founder Gerry Hundert, we realized the glasses should fit an athlete in a cus- offers customers thousands of fashion options start- tom way. It’s more costly to inventory, but we feel ing at $84. there is a value to custom-fit sunglasses.” “Starting out just being online is a different concept than it was three or four years ago. It’s been proven that you can buy eyewear online, and at this Oakley Custom’s Web site. point, it’s time for something new,” said the 25-year- old entrepreneur. OAKLEY CUSTOM The idea of customization came to him while learn- “Customization overall isn’t even a megatrend any- ing the production process in China. “I began working at more,” said Roeya Vaughan, global category director for REM three years ago, and they shipped me off to China Oakley Custom. “We are definitely seeing it across all to learn the manufacturing side, where I designed and industries, and at Oakley it’s gaining momentum. We’ve built my own frames by hand. That got me thinking, seen double-digit gains in our retail environment.” ‘Why can’t everyone do it?’ It’s the same concept that The California-based company has offered cus- Nike and Converse have with shoes. It plays into the tomized frames for the last seven years and has been concept of having your own style,” said Hundert. expanding its program organically to the point where Made’s online ads, featured on sites like Yahoo and half of its eyewear sales are for custom frames. The people.com, feature full-length and cropped shots of styles are available online, in Oakley’s 200-plus O models in colorful clothing, an effort to establish the stores worldwide and in select wholesale partners Adidas’ custom color program is now available in Europe and brand as a young, fun alternative to other brands. like Sunglass Hut. may expand to the U.S. “I’ve found that we get a better reaction from post- “We’re giving our customers the opportunity to col- ing a picture taken in a hallway than a million-dollar laborate with the brand and build something unique to The frames are made from a lightweight propri- photo shoot. Everyone can recognize an expensive them that meets their performance needs,” she said. etary material called SPX that is durable, temper- ad,” he said. The brand offers customers a choice of frame ature-proof and ideal for running, cycling, golf and Customers begin by choosing from one of eight styles, colors, lenses, icons, temple shapes and multisport frames. Prices range from $99 to $300, and frame styles and colors, then choose temple colors, sleeves, and decorative plates, as well as custom etch- the frames are available through Adidas retail and patterns, logos, custom laser-etched text and lenses. ing on the lens. There is also a global and Asian fit to optical partners as well as online. With colors alone, there are more than 4,200 possible address the fit of the nose bridge. While most styles On the fashion side, the frames are available in combinations, and with the other options, the possi- are gender-neutral, some come in modified styles to fit multiple color ways, but not in adjustable combi- bilities are seemingly endless — or a number “with women and youths. In-store customers can take home nations. The company is currently testing a custom at least 600 zeroes behind it,” according to Hundert. their glasses the same day, and online orders, which color eyewear program in Europe that it will likely Frames arrive within seven to 10 days of placing are hand-assembled in Oakley’s Foothill Ranch, Calif., implement in the States as well. the order and are fully refundable for 30 days. “We lab for domestic orders (there are also labs in Ireland “We see major value in that but want to see how understand that it may not be perfect once you put it and Tokyo), arrive within one to seven business days. it’s working first,” Pichler said. “We see people want- on your face.” The company recently merged its Rx program for ing more control over making unique eyewear, but The Made site, like many of its competitors, of- optical lenses with its custom program, allowing sun- in the U.S. we need to focus on making sure people fers a virtual try-on feature powered by FittingBox glass styles to be fitted with corrective lenses. The av- know about our custom fit.”

A custom combination from Made Eyewear.

Adidas’ Evil Eye half rim XS style. PRODUCED AND DISTRIBUTED BY LUXOTTICA GROUP MOD.- RL 8091 12 WWD FRIDAY, JULY 26, 2013

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WWDACCESSORIES Part of Lunettes Kollektion’s Eye on Berlin collaboration with Louise Gray.

Berlin’s innovative eyewear ﬁrms are focused on the future. New markets, models and partnerships are bringing all eyes to the German capital. Here are a few ﬁrms worth checking out. By Susan Stone

premiere of three short image films — a stripes to match Long’s cy- Mykita’s new SoHo store. format break from the award-winning cling-themed men’s wear, commemorative books released for its with colored engraved fifth and eighth years. The next book lines added across both is scheduled for 2014. frame and lenses — priced Marked by ultralight, high- at 359 euros, or $473. tech frames, Mykita also has Glasses and frames in the attracted attention by creating classic Lunettes Kollektion collections with fashion up-and- lineup are priced at 259 comers (Damir Doma, Bernhard euros, or $341. Willhelm), and special projects Next up is a project with with singer Beth Ditto and skiing brand Berlin label Odeeh, which shows Moncler, among others. Prices for optical its finely tuned women’s wear in frames run 360 to 400 euros, or $475 to $528 Paris. at current exchange, and sunglasses run Geyer also has her eye on the next genera- 280 to 320 euros, or $369 to $422. tion. Her relocated second Lunettes Selection store Designer- and artist-cooperation sun- has expanded into glasses for children and teens, glasses are 300 to 400 euros, or $395 to $528; a no- including new frames from Very French Gangsters table exception is Mykita/Damir Doma luxury model and sized-down vintage pieces such as Eighties bow- DD01, priced at 1,245 euros, or about $1,642. bedecked sunglasses from Dior Junior. CLASSICS AND COLLABORATIONS ON A ROLL WITH R.T.CO UTA GEYER RUNS two of Berlin’s most beloved THE DIY PHILOSOPHY of the skateboard cul- eyewear stores. Lunettes Selection shops are filled ture propels R.T.Co. Founded in 2010 by skater and with unworn vintage treasures and carefully chosen graphic designer Tobias Bergmann, the brand remix- contemporary brands like Moscot and Kuboraum. es classic styles in an array of materials like vintage Alongside is Geyer’s own Lunettes Kollektion line, dead stock acetate from Italy’s Mazzucchelli, and which takes inspiration from the annals of film and uses Zeiss lenses. fashion. These days, it is making its own history by A spin-off of Bergmann’s Rollo T-shirt company, branching into design collaborations. R.T.Co aims to serve the skateboard and streetwear In February, Lunettes teamed with Scotland’s crowds, as well as the fashion gang, with “acceptable” Louise Gray, accenting her collection by etching sun- prices — 165 euros, or $218. There are currently five glasses with the shout-outs “Hey Crazy” and “Fab frames, all named for birds, in the collection, with Ulous” on the lenses, while the clear lenses of a three more expected to be added for next spring. nerdy black style were engraved with flirty eyelashes. Color options include tortoise-look; clear, blue, A sporty pairing with rising British designer red or yellow crystal, and solids in an intense red, James Long made its debut on the catwalk in June pine green and off-black. R.T.Co sunglasses are during men’s collections in London. Lunettes sold in boutiques around Germany, as well as in Kollektion’s rounded Flâneur model added racing Copenhagen, Amsterdam and Riga, Latvia. MYKITA’S DESIGNS ON NEW YORK MARKING A ROBUST 10th anniversary this year, Berlin eyewear firm Mykita is also celebrating its first American store. New York’s Crosby Street is home to the brand’s eighth signature shop, which opened July 17 and features an in-house optometrist for instant vision gratification, as well as a capsule collection exclusive to the 1,300-square-foot SoHo location. The brand sells in more than 60 countries, with top markets including home base Germany, France and the U.S. “Since the U.S. accounts for around 20 percent of our international sales, the opening of the first Mykita shop in the U.S. marks a milestone in terms of future expansion and retail design,” said cofounder Moritz Krueger. Additional anniversary celebrations include the R.T.Co’s Sparrow frame. relaunch of Mykita’s Web site in August, and the

Purchasing the frame alone runs WISE EYES 120 euros, or $159. The five uni- “WHY DO YOU have a hallway full of sex styles come in a range of five shoes, and only one pair of glasses?” neutral and pastel colors, and all wondered Owl Optics founder David frames, which are manufactured Kamp. in Asia, are limited to a run of 100 Together with Owl’s head of de- pieces. Frame seekers in Berlin, sign and production, Lars Neckel, Frankfurt or Hamburg can try on formerly of Berlin’s Mykita, Kamp Owl styles in shops or via private set out to challenge this query with viewings — what the label calls an an affordable line of Internet-only optical “blind date.” eyewear. Operating with a mail-order Shoppers elsewhere have to take model, Owl offers complete pairs of a leap of faith in Kamp and his team’s matte acetate sunglasses and correc- expertise. Owl Optics sells throughout tive glasses for 150 euros, or $199, Germany and Europe; the company is for frames and lenses up to +/-6.00. also looking to expand into markets fur- Owl Optics limited-edition frames. There’s a surcharge for stronger and ther abroad, such as Japan. thinner lenses. — S.S. BCBGENERATION.COM Trebbianno LLC 29 West 35th Street 35th LLC 29 West Trebbianno 4th Floor New York, NY 10001 212.868.2770

JEWELRY 14 WWD MONDAY, JULY 29, 2013

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WWDACCESSORIES Deck the Halls

Harrods will unveil its is expecting overall accessories sales to glittering jewelry rooms in have increased by 150 percent. But the Harrods’ fine jewelry room. the accessories halls this store is not stopping with the ground floor: Next year will see the launch of a fall. By Samantha Conti luxury shoe area that will take up a sub- stantial chunk of the fifth floor. THE GROUND FLOOR of Harrods “Our vision was to create an unpar- throbs with all variety of consumer life, alleled accessories offer…that would from tourists shuffling between food allow international fashion houses to halls and souvenir shops, to locals sam- create ‘world of ’ boutiques that are pling skin care and makeup at shiny truly destinational, alongside leading counters, to the stream of flush, luxury- luxury brands, independent design- minded visitors from the Middle East, ers and contemporary labels,” said the China, Malaysia, Singapore and Brazil. store’s chief merchant, Marigay McKee. This fall, the floor is set to get even Even before work began on the busier as Harrods caps a major two- ground floor, which now has restored year project to overhaul its accesso- ceiling moldings, parquet flooring and ries halls with the opening of two new new stone walkways throughout the ac- jewelry spaces: a fine jewelry room cessories space, McKee said accesso- that will double in size, and a luxury ries sales have registered “significant jewelry room in a new location on the growth” since 2008. floor. The latter will stock smaller, in- In the past two years, Harrods has

The new fine watches room. from heavily logoed product. “When buying a handbag in particular, our customers are looking for quality and craftsmanship rather than being led solely by an obvi- ous logo. Our exotics business is booming as a result, as are our bespoke and personaliza- tion services,” she said. Luxury jewelry — where turnover has more than doubled over the past three years — will be housed in the former scarves and hosiery department, and the new space will open in September. It is designed by Eva Jiricná, the Czech architect whose projects include the grand en- trance and reception of the Victoria and Albert Museum in London and Harrods’ watch and current and future fine jewelry rooms. That space will feature in-store shops for designers including Webster, Jensen and Vinader, whose precious metal and cord stackable Fiji Bracelet, which ranges in price from 95 pounds, The designer accessory space. or $145, to 5,000 pounds, or $7,628, depending on the materials, is a bestseller in the current luxury room. Other brands in the new luxury room will include Carolina Bucci, Astley Clarke, Shaun Leane, Diane Kordas and Eddie Borgo. Prices there will range from 50 pounds, or $77, for a Links of London charm to 20,000 pounds, or $30,626, for a piece of Webster jewelry. The fine jewelry room, which opens in November, will double in size and house A new fine jewelry room will open in the fall. six new boutiques for brands including Garrard, Boodles, de Grisogono, Hermès and dependent designers and stand-alone doubled the number of designer and rently offering 400 varieties of bags, all of Dior fine jewelry, as well as counter boutiques from brands including Georg luxury handbag rooms from four to eight, which are exclusive to Harrods. spaces for brands including Faraone Jensen, Stephen Webster, Annoushka, doubled the size of its scarf room on the This summer, the store added dedi- Mennella and Buccellati. and Monica Vinader. lower ground floor, added boutiques cated spaces for Saint Laurent and The fine jewelry category is growing Between the end of 2011 — when the such as Tom Ford’s first dedicated acces- Alexander Wang. so rapidly, the store said, that this will store unveiled the first new accessories sories space and given others room for With regard to sales trends, McKee be the second time since 2011 that the room — and the end of this year, Harrods creative merchandising: Miu Miu is cur- said the store has witnessed a move away space has been expanded.

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Personal Effects

Smaller French brands entering the handbag arena find ways to compete with established labels. By Joelle Diderich THEY MAY LACK the advertis- there to pass the message,” he added. $2,595, they are·· available from retailing clout of a Gucci or a Louis Mouret described his first collec- ers including Hudson’s Bay department Vuitton, but designers launching tion, unveiled during Paris Fashion stores in Canada, Boutique 1 in Dubai, into the crowded handbag seg- Week in March, as “a guilty pleasure” Boon The Shop in Seoul and the Roland ment are turning their smaller that he designed with friends in mind. Mouret boutique in Mayfair, London. size into a key selling point. “It was really to understand For his second collection, Mouret will Roland Mouret, Andrew Gn how confident I am with it,” he expand his range to 12 styles and bring and Alexandre Vauthier, who said. “Launching something in our in some bags priced just under $1,000. all show their collections in world nowadays is not a six-month “I’ve got so much information from Paris, have joined the ranks of situation. You take two years to the customer that straightaway, I use it bag designers with collections launch a product properly. You in my work, and that’s going to be part of that put the onus on exception- have to go step by step.” the process with all the accessories, and al craftsmanship and personal The four styles in stores this the bags in particular,” he said. service. fall are named Le Sept, Paris- “It’s really questioning everything For Mouret, meeting the Paris, Monceau and Hugo. and trying not to lose too much time customer is key. “It was really about Paris. It “I think part of the price was about my life when I was of a designer bag is that the The Paris- young, and that’s why it was designer can be there to Paris by great to give them names of A woman identifies sign it or be there with the Roland something that is personal to customer when the cus- Mouret. me, and not to give them the more with a bag tomer chooses it,” said the names of celebrities or mod- London-based Frenchman, els,” Mouret explained. when she knows who regularly holds trunk In clean, timeless shapes, shows for his collections. the bags are made in Italy “It’s my way to fight the and come in materials such what it’s called. big brands that base [more] as calfskin, goatskin and — ANDREW GN on advertising, and less on suede, with colors ranging a one-to-one relationship. from taupe and clay to petrol I am fortunate to be closer blue, emerald and burgundy. now, to be there at every season. It took to my customer and to be Priced from $1,195 through me 15 years to establish the dresses, I can’t spend 15 years to establish the bags. [I] have to be quicker,” added Mouret, who hopes accessories will account for 20 percent of his brand’s turnover within three years. Gn is also relying on personal feed- back from his customers to refine his handbag collection. EXPAND YOUR FIELD OF “We always believe in testing the product with the end client,”·· said the Singapore-born designer, who greets customers at his private salon in an 18th-century townhouse in Paris when he is not hosting pop-up salons in San Francisco or China. Known for his use of lavish fabrics and ornate embellishments, Gn took a different approach by putting the onus on functionality with his bags, which are characterized by streamlined silhouettes and multiple compartments. “For me, it’s very easy to make a min- audière covered with crystals and jewelry and embroideries — we’re known for our embroideries. So I’m actually THE COMPLETE EYECARE EVENT going to do something different that not a lot of people are doing: a day-into- night bag,” he said. The Day ‘N’ Nite is one of four styles launching at retail this season, alongside the Cargo, the Duchess and the Pocket. For resort, Gn has added the The Brief by Brief, and three other styles will be in- Andrew Gn. troduced for next spring. “The name has to be simple and yet very catchy,” he said. “It is very important, because if it’s a good name, you will become a household name like the

Birkin. A woman identiﬁes more with a EDUCATION: OCTOBER 2–5, 2013 | EXHIBITION: OCTOBER 3–5, 2013 bag when she knows what it’s called.” Las Vegas, NV | Sands Expo & Convention Center | www.visionexpowest.com Made in France from Italian box- calf leather in a classic palette of rust, cognac, violet, forest green, blue and black, the bags feature chains and locks adorned with semiprecious stones such as tiger eyes, amethysts and turquoise. “When it comes to handbags, a lot LENSES & PROCESSING MEDICAL & EYEWEAR & CONTINUING BUSINESS TECHNOLOGY SCIENTIFIC ACCESSORIES EDUCATION SOLUTIONS of people come in to buy a brand name because of the advertising and the marketing tools,” Gn noted. “We want to pro- The Hugo by Roland Mouret. duce a very well-made product, beauti- WWD.COM ADVERTISEMENT

fully designed, and let the product speak for itself. It’s always been our The Day ‘N’ principle for our ready-to-wear.” Nite, left, and While the first pieces will retail The Pocket, between $1,300 and $2,800, Gn right, by wants to bring in more styles Andrew Gn. ® in the $1,000 to $2,000 range. PRECIOSA COMPONENTS This will allow his exist- & PANTONE® ing customers to purchase multiple versions of the same bag in different col- JEWELLERY ors, and a broader client base to buy into the brand, explained the designer. & ACCESSORIES Gn also hopes to grow accessories to 20 percent of his business in the next COLOUR two to three years, but he is taking a gradual approach to retailing the line, avail- PALETTE able at a handful of stores including Neapolitan in Chicago and The Swank in spring Hong Kong. summer 2014 “For the moment, we’re not dying to sell 25,000 or 30,000 bags in one style. It’s The Spring/Summer 2014 fashion jewellery colour trend not our principle at all,” he said. “As you long as you forecast by PRECIOSA and PANTONE is now in! can afford to do that and Preciosa, the leading manufacturer of crystal fashion not to spread your products jewellery components, and Pantone, the industry like wildfire, it gives you standard and the global authority on colour, have time to perfect your product line and to perfect worked together since 2010 to bring you the latest in the production as well, fashion accessory trend forecasting. They are combining which is extremely the season’s textile colour predictions with matching important.” Preciosa® GENUINE CZECH CRYSTAL™ colours. In the Vauthier also said he was more con- new JEWELLERY & ACCESSORIES COLOUR PALETTE cerned with quality Spring/Summer 2014 you will fi nd a colour selection than quantity. of crystal stones, beads and other components from The French designer broke into a wide Preciosa´s range. MAXIMA by Preciosa®, the the category with latest lead-free product line of the highest quality, is also the (U)nfolder7, included in these trendy colours. Preciosa and Pantone which can be fold- fashion forcasting provides not just information about the ed into a clutch and a handbag, or stored flat like a sheet, upcoming season, but also fantastic inspiration! through a unique system of locks thought up by the Renato Corti workshop in Italy. Trip TIME “It’s 80 percent handmade. I wanted something super exclusive,” he explained. “I wasn’t looking to make it an ‘It’ bag either. I really wanted to create a bag that would make it from season to season with new interpretations.” FLUX Delivered in lambskin or crocodile leather in black, beige, red or white, the item retails for 2,450 euros, or Vauthier. “But I really wanted it $3,220 at current exchange, and is exclusively to be on the same level as my available at Le Bon Marché in Paris, Just One Eye ready-to-wear. That is why we in Los Angeles and Harvey Nichols in Hong Kong. chose really exclusive points “It’s a fairly high price for a first bag from a de- of sale.” signer who is not that well known,” acknowledged For his second collection, Turned ON ITS HEAD Vauthier will introduce a more accessible version The (U)nfolder7 Le Sept by Roland Mouret. of the (U)nfolder7, priced (folded) by Alexandre between 1,300 and 1,400 Vauthier. euros, or $1,700 to $1,840, in addition to a clutch, the (T)win7, Harmonic OSCILLATION and a tote bag, the (D)ay7, both priced under 1,000 euros, or $1,315. In the absence of any advertising budget, Vauthier — who has dressed celebrities such as Beyoncé, Rihanna and Rita Ora — has sent the bag to some of his celebrity friends, though he says it was more of a friendly gesture than a plea for a plug. “I am not into product placement. I like to let Preciosa Customer Centre things happen at their own speed,” he said. Opletalova 3197, 466 67 Jablonec nad Nisou, Czech Republic “This is a product that I really want to work on [email protected] long term. It’s my classic, and everything is going to revolve around that. I want to make perennial, DISCOVER MORE AT high-quality items. That is what I want my label to be known for — hyper-luxury — because that is www.trends.preciosa.com my true obsession.” 18 WWD MONDAY, JULY 29, 2013

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WWDACCESSORIES

Adding another dimension to glitter Crystals on the Set in Hollywood. By Alexandra Steigrad

A heart-shaped pendant with a Swarovski crystal from the “Romeo and Juliet” collection.

Swarovski indicated that the brand would begin selling a 15-piece “Romeo and Juliet” jewelry collection in its boutiques in the U.S. once the film is released this fall. Douglas Booth as Romeo with The collection includes a ring worn Hailee Steinfeld as Juliet. by Juliet in the movie, a gift from Romeo. The pieces are inspired by ro- mance and reflect the styles of the pe- HOLLYWOOD is getting an embel- the I and crossing the T, and that ap- riod. Some take their cues from sym- lished dose of the Swarovskis. Nadja plies to the film industry as well — that bols in the film, like pearls, swords On a recent sunny, humid morning, Swarovski yearning for perfection.” and crosses. Nadja Swarovski, a lanky, energetic Swarovski confessed that perfec- It’s a shrewd move for the brand, blonde wearing sparkly crystal action in film appears harder to come which periodically makes baubles for cessories, white pants and a hot pink by than it does in her own business, film releases, as it did with the latest twill jacket cheerfully strode into her as many elements, such as the tim- James Bond flick, “Skyfall.” suite at the Mark Hotel to talk about ing of the film’s release or the chem- In a collaboration for Swarovski, her company’s newest endeavor: a film istry between the actors, are largely British designer Stephen Webster cre- production company. uncontrollable. ated four exclusive designs inspired by An executive board member of her What she was able to control, how- “Skyfall.” The themes from the movie family’s $3 billion dollar crystal busi- ever, was putting together a talented were “Love Knot,” “Black Bamboo,” ness, Swarovski chairs Swarovski ensemble cast, which includes Damien “Heat Seeker” and “Queen Cobra,” Entertainment, the recently formed Lewis, Natascha McElhone, Lesley and the styles were seen in the movie. group, positioned as the film wing of Manville, Ed Westwick, Paul Giamatti While heartthrobs and accessories the firm, that, just like a Hollywood and Stellan Skarsgård. She was also isn’t a bad pairing for any movie, it’s production agency, finances and devel- able to control the financing of the not necessarily a recipe for success, ops movies for the silver screen. project, and explained that new finan- according to Swarovski. In order for While the move might draw a few ciers are welcomed in Hollywood be- the entertainment group to remain puzzled looks from fashion and en- cause less money is available to back in business, it will have to “break tertainment quarters alike, Swarovski smaller films. even” on its investments. With an ini- sees her entertainment group as a Steinfeld, who plays Juliet in the tial plan to produce two films a year, “natural evolution” in the company’s film and is best known for her role in Swarovski’s vision extends to docu- mission to “foster creativity in the vari- “True Grit,” said, “Nadja Swarovski mentaries and small films about sub- ous business fields.” and her team were always a positive jects ranging from the environment In fashion, the Austrian crystal presence,” adding she’d like to work and health to art and fashion. maker not only sponsors leadership with Swarovski again. “We’re certainly choosing subject events but also oversees established Her costar Douglas Booth echoed matter that is empowering, uplifting, and emerging talent awards and de- actors, Swarovski is facing its first test that sentiment. From his hotel room educational. It has to go hand-in-hand sign competitions. When asked what as a veritable Hollywood player. at the Peninsula in New York, the with Swarovski’s values,” she said, business a fashion-centric company The film, which will be released British actor (Romeo) said that while but added she wouldn’t mind doing a has jumping into arguably one of the in the U.S. on Oct. 11, is Nadja he didn’t know much about Swarovski splashy action film. most alluring and lucrative — yet Swarovski’s $17 million project that before filming, “Nadja has been so “Quite frankly, I’d love to do ‘Iron impenetrable — industries around, she cast, thanks to the help of her vast supportive.” Man,’” she said, motioning to her chest, Swarovski paused. Rolodex and her coproducer, Ileen “with a big crystal on his heart. I mean, “In terms of the film industry, we’ve Maisel, who knows her way around a why not?” always been an integral part of it since studio lot. But Swarovski knows it will be an the emergence of the silver screen,” For the film, the duo pulled in uphill climb before the brand even she said matter-of-factly. “Since the coproducer Milena Canonero, who contemplates producing block- beginning, anything that was meant consulted on costume design, as busters of that magnitude. to be a diamond was nothing but a well as James Horner for musi- “The trick is to figure out Swarovski crystal, whether it was the cal direction. the rules,” she acknowledged. tiara that Audrey Hepburn wore in Still, despite her own “Every industry has different ‘Breakfast at Tiffany’s’ or the slip- strong connections in the arts, unwritten rules. It’s about pers in ‘The Wizard of Oz’ or Marilyn Swarovski admitted to having figuring out what they are. Monroe’s [screen] jewelry.” felt a bit uneasy hobnobbing Once you know those rules, While this has lent itself to the in Hollywood. A ring by Swarovski for its “Romeo once you know what those Swarovski brand influencing costume “At first, I looked at myself and Juliet” collection. expectations are, you can and set design in films, it has not yet and said, ‘Who am I?’ You go deal with it. Yes, there are translated to impacting the casting or talk to Ilene. But then, after certain industries that are plot of a film — until now. a while, you realize, once you more pleasant than others. I With its first project, a remake of are in the creative world, that have to say at Swarovski, we are “Romeo and Juliet” directed by Carlo creativity applies to different sub- lucky that we get to dip in and Carlei and starring Hailee Steinfeld, jects,” said Swarovski. “Everything out of various industries because Douglas Booth and a host of well-known we do in our office is about dotting it gives us different perspectives.” NADJA SWAROVSKI PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA ROBERT PHOTO BY NADJA SWAROVSKI

CHLOE.COM © 2013 CHLOÉ. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. ALL © 2013 CHLOÉ. Degen’s merino cashmere and baby SECTION III alpaca crop top. WWD INTIMATES KNIT PICK SURFACE INTEREST PLAYS A BIG ROLE AMONG KEY INNERWEAR TRENDS IN THE SEASON AHEAD. FOR MORE, SEE PAGES 6 AND 7.

BY THE NUMBERS CHINESE OPPORTUNITY ITALIAN LEGWEAR’S BIG CHALLENGE PBPB WWD XXXXXXX, XXXXX XX, 2013

SECTION III WWD.COM wwdintimates/By the numBers Unflattering Figures NPD stats reveal a slowdown in the innerwear Total Dollar Sales market. By Karyn Monget INNERWEAR NEEDS a wake-up call. A lack of newness and innovation in the $14.5 billion innerwear market — particularly in the daywear and shapewear sectors — is dragging down overall sales in the category. The industry, which includes bras, underwear, sleepwear, loungewear and robes, barely coasted by with a total dollar increase of 0.8 percent and a 0.1 percent decline in unit sales from June 2012 to May 2013, according to the most recent report by The NPD Group Inc./ Consumer Tracking Service. That’s a major change from a 4 per- situation that is not product-driven or cent dollar gain and a 2.8 percent decline consumption-driven.” in unit sales in the same 2011-12 time Cohen identified a “risk-averse” re- frame, reported NPD. It also reflects a tail environment as contributing to the significant shift from a healthy intimate malaise in the market. apparel business in postrecession 2010, “Innerwear should be one of the when consumer spending was cautious most passionate products for women to but the category continued to generate buy.…But what’s happened is the indus- sales gains in the 2 to 3 percent range. try has been forced into some of this… The reasons for the transition are an environment where retailers are so compelling. cautious they say, ‘Just give me the es- Consumer confidence surged to a sentials.’ Retailers don’t want to take five-year high this past May to 76.2 — its chances and they don’t want excess in- highest reading since February 2008, ventories. The brands have responded according to The Conference Board. in return. It’s sad because the consumer But the optimism of an improving job is excited again after the recession.” and housing market did little to bolster In an effort to stimulate business the demand for commodity-type mer- over the past several seasons, a major- chandise that was the mainstay of the ity of lingerie makers have adhered to 2008 recession. Just as shoppers have the tried-and-true formula of reposi- begun to open up their wallets for new- tioning the same styles of bras, shapers, ness and fashion, they are being “bored camis, sleepwear and robes in a dif- to death” with basic goods, said Marshal ferent palette of seasonal colors and Cohen, chief industry analyst for NPD. trendy brights. They have also recast Cohen singled out the main causes popular prints such as animal patterns for the drop in dollar volume to several and florals in additional color mixes. factors: sameness of product, an overly But the recoloring strategy has worn cautious retail and manufacturing en- thin with consumers who are looking vironment and a “lazy” manufacturing for key items and styles that have a industry that is making little effort to fresh spin on innovative, lightweight innovate. Also impacting the innerwear fabrics and high-tech applications that business are other industries such as add perceived value to the product, activewear, swimwear and sportswear enhance the comfort level and provide that have been chipping away at inti- figure-problem solutions. mates for years, but are cannibalizing “The industry is asleep at the switch,” the sports bras and daywear sectors, said Cohen. “In the last few years, women which include camisoles and bodysuits. have been buying a lot of shapewear, but At the same time, lingerie has been the shapewear industry still hasn’t been hit by retailer demand for leaner in- able to convince women they need a ventories, as well as fewer promotions wardrobe of shapewear. That’s because and discounted merchandise at stores, they haven’t created enough variety of which has ultimately eroded overall style and design.…They may have added unit sales, said Cohen. an item that gives full or partial shaping

m “The good news is there is some and coverage, but there’s no new excite-

o growth, but it’s not monumental. It’s ment.…It’s the same with daywear — it’s c .

a coming from an average price increase, not at a growth rate. The growth is com- s

u not from new, innovative products that ing from the bra and panty businesses.”

o drive the business, not from sexy in- The numbers tell the story. In the 11 r

N timates and not from [promotional] months through May, shapewear sales a

h sales. Stores are not inventoried deep fell 8 percent to $688 million, while .

w enough to discount merchandise,” ex- daywear plummeted 11.4 percent to

w plained Cohen. “The average growth $337 million. In the same period, dol- Total Units Sold w is only around 1 percent. The industry lar sales of sleepwear, a top category knows this and is taking advantage of a in 2012 with a host of new fabrics such as MicroModal and a new generation of silklike Lycra spandex blends, were Total Units Sold down 3.5 percent to $3.6 billion. In the same time frame, dollar sales of bras and panties increased 3.1 per- Please visit us at cent to $6.5 billion, and 4.8 percent to $3.38 billion, respectively. The outlook for the second half doesn’t look rosier, according to Cohen. “This has been percolating for a CURVENY in New York couple of years, and it’s starting to im- pede long-term growth,” he cautioned. “Swimwear, activewear and sportswear 8/4 – 8/6 have been chasing this business for ages, and it’s become a hugely competitive arena. Now, it’s a matter of who’s going to get better at innovation. Innerwear business is being eroded and appears to be losing the war.”

w29c002b;7.indd 2 7/25/13 3:03 PM 07252013150405

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WWDINTIMATES/UNDERCURRENTS The Vilanueva LOCAL SPECIALIST from FOR YEARS, Southeast Asian Xixili. women seeking designer lingerie had only a handful of Western labels to which they could turn. Now, a Malaysian company, Xixili Intimates, is getting in on the action. The nine-year-old brand has been flourishing in its home country and is now expanding elsewhere in the region. “The whole thing was put together by a group of women who realized that 80 percent of women worldwide put on the wrong size bra,” said Tara Tan, the brand’s marketing director. “There are pretty severe side effects from that.” Tabio’s Saint Sulpice store in Paris. To combat these effects, Xixili

PHOTO BY DOMINIQUE MAÎTRE PHOTO BY trains all its staff consultants to fit customers and teach them how to TABIO’S EUROPEAN PLAY every season. Among the brand’s best- correctly put on lingerie, a service AS QUIRKY LEGWEAR makes its foray sellers are a line of glittery Lurex socks that’s rare in relatively conserva- into high fashion, the Japanese brand in a broad range of colors retailing for tive Southeast Asia. Tabio is invading high street in Europe. 14 euros a pair, or $18.50 at current ex- “We have to train our girls to Revenue last year was about 40 mil- The Osaka-based maker of quirky change, of which the brand sells 1,500 deal with all sorts of personalities, lion ringgit, or $12.5 million, and socks and tights runs two flagships in items a year, as well as the Irmack vintage including those who refuse to let Xixili, which has 47 points of sale Paris and two in London, and has opera- socks, which go for 12 euros, or $15.80. them into the fitting room,” said in Malaysia, has since expanded tions in each of those cities. Germany Net sales in France jumped 25 percent Tan. Sometimes that doesn’t work, into neighboring Singapore. and Italy are next on the brand’s radar. from 800,000 euros, or $1.06 million, in so Xixili occasionally shuts down “We’re doing really well in “We are getting many requests from 2010, to 1 million euros, or $1.29 million, its boutiques to host fitting work- Malaysia, and since we’re already the U.S. as well,” said Manuella Sorin, in 2012, while global net sales stood at 15.3 shops for up to 40 women at a time. all over the [country], we’re now Tabio’s operations manager in Paris, billion yen, or $191.25 million, in 2012. The focus on customization trying to explore overseas,” Tan “but we need to adapt the sizes first. Sorin attributed the brand’s success extends to the extensive product said. Xixili has plans to enter Germans and Americans are really tall, to a growing interest in socks. range on offer. Vietnam and Indonesia in the com- and we’re not quite ready yet.” “Tights are tights, they have always “We’ve just launched an I-cup, ing year, as well as to grow its bud- Sorin said the brand is moving away been popular, but the socks business size and because we have our own ding e-commerce operations. from department stores and focusing really picked up as fashion designers design team and production facili- One challenge the company will more on monobrand expansion to com- started using our items in their fashion ties in Malaysia, we can [provide face in retailing underwear online ply with “the Japanese philosophy of de- shows. John Galliano was the first one custom sizing] for those not able is ensuring that customers new to livering a product with perfect service.” to do so,” said Sorin, adding that Tabio’s to find the right size or those who the label also get a quality fit. That’s also the reason why in London, design team works closely with fashion want to mix and match prints,” “We’re doing it very slowly and Tabio is looking for smaller high-street houses to pick up on trends, styles and Tan said. exploring fitting technology to see locations to mirror the Paris venues. colors. “The fact that mixing heels with a Prices for its pastel-colored bras if there’s a means by which we can “We realized that smaller boutiques pair of socks became so trendy has really and leopard print lace slips start at set up criteria for fitting online,” with a quiet atmosphere are better for helped us.” 69.90 Malaysian ringgit, or $21.75 at said Tan. “But even in e-commerce, business,” said Sorin. “Customers other- There are also plans to expand current exchange, though custom- we’re seeing strong growth figures. wise quickly become overwhelmed with Tabio’s online retail operations in ized pieces can cost many multiples In a way, we’re in a recession-free the selection.” Europe, which for now mainly focus on of that. business because ladies always The Paris doors stock approximately France and the U.K. Customers have apparently need lingerie.” 200 designs; 100 new ones are added — PAULINA SZMYDKE taken to the nine-year-old company. — KRISTIANO ANG

MECHANICALLY INCLINED INNER OPPORTUNITY THE BODY HAS ALWAYS been defined FOR MORE IN A LAND WHERE conspicuous by social and economic restraints. UNDERCURRETS, SEE consumption has driven high-end This is the premise of Denis Bruna, WWD.com/ growth for decades, international curator of the exhibition titled “The lingerie brands have faced an up- fashion-news. Mechanics of Underwear” at Les Arts hill battle convincing Chinese con- Décoratifs museum in Paris, who makes sumers it’s what’s on the inside that point by retracing six centuries of that counts. shaping the body. “When it comes to people’s spend- The exhibition, which opened this ing priorities at the higher end, linge- A runway look month and is organized chronologically rie is so far down the list compared by Simone Pérèle. over two ﬂoors, showcases more than with the stuff other people can see — 200 pieces, including bodices, panniers bags, accessories and clothing — that in Mainland China. and corsets. it’s just not getting much of a look,” Triumph was one of the earli- “The 18th and 19th centuries were said Mintel Group’s chief China strat- est international entries into the the two structuring ones,” Bruna ex- egist, Paul French, who has been Chinese market and is often held plained. “The aristocracy stood out keeping an eye on the lingerie seg- up as a model for international suc- through rectitude, stiffness and vertical- ment since he worked as a consultant cess in China. According to a report ity,” he said. “A very narrow waistline for Triumph in the Nineties. published by Chinese researchers was designed to exalt the bosom.” Still, there is evidence that Chinese Forward Intelligence, Triumph This silhouette endured until the women are starting to change their generates turnover of more than early 20th century, when designers in- mind-sets and embrace the idea of a billion yuan, or $162.66 million, cluding Paul Poiret, Nicole Groult and upscale undergarments. China’s inti- annually in China, though it still Madeleine Vionnet dropped corsets and mates market has grown steadily in re- lags behind major local players invented ﬂuid silhouettes. cent years, thanks to a small but grow- like Aimer, Gujin and Maniform in But the elaborate innerwear Corset, circa 1860 to 1870, Vancouver, ing niche of lingerie-loving women. terms of market share. construction wasn’t forgotten. collection of Melanie Talkington. According to London-based “The high-end lingerie segment Contemporary designers like Thierry CANINO PATRICIA PHOTO BY Companies and Markets, China’s is still a very niche-oriented market Mugler, Rei Kawakubo for Comme des underwear market at retail grew 13 at the moment. However, with the in- Garçons and Jean Paul Gaultier have The tour culminates in a fitting percent in 2012, faring better in the creasing purchasing power and the been inspired by the earlier period, room, where visitors can try on repli- economic downturn than other cat- will to create entire lifestyle prod- using corsetry, hoops and springs in cas of panniers, faux-cul (bustles) and egories like outerwear and footwear. ucts, it is a developing segment,” said their creations. crinolines and visualize their silhou- This research said the market is ex- Jennie Amardeil, Asia director for Contemporary underwear is included ettes in a mirror. pected to increase in size, register- Paris-based bra brand Simone Pérèle. in the expo as well. Bruna noted the come- “The Mechanics of Underwear” runs ing a compound annual growth rate French of Mintel agreed, ex- back of girdles, returning in the guise of through Nov. 24 at Les Arts Décoratifs, (at constant value) of 10 percent plaining that the keys to a success- “shapewear” or “smart underwear.” 107 Rue de Rivoli, Paris. Hours are through 2017. ful China marketing strategy for Men have also been subject to ortho- Tuesday to Sunday, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., and By 2016, Mintel Group expects international lingerie brands will pedics, as proven by the advertising for Thursday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. lingerie sales at retail to reach involve being sensitive to cultural so-called kangaroo and “push-up” briefs. — LAURE GUILBAULT 143.77 billion yuan, or $23.4 billion, influences. — CASEY HALL Extending LYCRA® BEAUTY fabric LYCRA

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is a trademark of I NV S TA The LYCRA BEAUTY fabric collection is the secret to outstanding shaping and comfort for elegant and sophisticated sculpting lingerie including lace, seamless, synthetic KXN XK^_\KVäLK]ON PKL\SM]

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www.LYCRA.com 6 WWD MONDAY, JULY 29, 2013 SECTION III

WWDINTIMATES

COLOR

Emporio Armani’s blue stretch polyester bra and briefs. Natori’s Modal and spandex slip. B.tempt’d by Wacoal’s nylon and spandex bra and panties. THE TRENDS SURFACE INTEREST RULES AS DESIGNERS FOCUS ON BRIGHT COLORS, NAUTICAL MOTIFS AND PLAYFUL DOTS.

PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY ANTONIA SARDONE

NAUTICAL

Hanro’s cotton, elastane and polyester top. Freya’s polyester and nylon bra and panties. Fleur du Mal’s silk bra and cotton and polyester briefs. WWD MONDAY, JULY 29, 2013 7 WWD.COM

DOTS

Tart Collections’ polyester and spandex bra. Sanctuary Femme’s nylon and spandex bra and panties. Pleasure State’s polyester and elastane slip.

Rhonda Shear’s nylon dress over polyester lining. Elomi’s nylon, polyamide, elastane and polyester bra and briefs. Degen’s cotton and angora knit shorts. FASHION ASSISTANT: ANDREW SHANG AND EMMIE MARTIN ASSISTANT: FASHION In Bloom by Jonquil’s polyester and spandex shorts. Petit Pois by Viviana G.’s nylon top and shorts. Isaac Mizrahi’s nylon and spandex bra and panties. 8 WWD MONDAY, JULY 29, 2013

SECTION III WWD.COM

WWDINTIMATES

said Luca Bondioli, who is also president of A.Di.Ci. The water purification system at Tintoria Manifattura Barbara. “There’s a history here,” said Bondioli, who noted that the district’s 400-plus firms are interconnected and have harmonized safety and environmental practices. “EU regulations are very present and pressing.” He cited visits Ileana had received from the regional health association and from represen- tatives from the province, city, Customs bureau and land registry, and from auditors hired by major international distributors. “We have to have internal and external inspectors who provide us with a series of guarantees. We have a company doctor who checks that everything is OK. For example, twice a year, there are visits to see if the work- load has increased,” said Bondioli, adding employees are required to take stress management courses. In spring 2012, a series of earthquakes called attention to the need for strong anchoring at factories. “We closed down production here for 15 days and had all our anchoring checked. So I repeat: When a regulation is imposed on the territory, we act immediately,” said Bondioli. “It’s not the philosophy of saying this is the law — at this point companies think this way. It’s a mentality that was built over time. It A Fair Shake takes years.” Last December, eight A.Di.Ci member companies developed an industry-specific safety program PHOTOS BY DAVIDE MAESTRI DAVIDE PHOTOS BY for workers. Bondioli added Ileana invests heavily in training to Health and safety standards and workers’ rights are costly, but Italian improve product quality. makers say they’re worth it, as they look to level the playing field “Even the people who iron our product need to with manufacturers around the world. By Cynthia Martens have a certain mind-set and cannot be robots — they have to be our primary inspectors,” he said. Of Tintoria Manifattura Barbara’s 75 employ- SINCE APRIL 24, when the Rana Plaza building col- move regulations that protect workers. But if we have ees, 80 percent are women, according to Renato lapsed in Bangladesh, killing more than a thousand to sell the same products they’re making in China to Moreni, founder and owner of the dye works employees, the fashion industry has been forced to the big distributors, then they, too, need to follow the plant. Asked what kind of safety risks dye workers confront poor conditions found in many garment and rules. Europe needs to assert itself, and big distribu- face, Moreni said in his 50 years on the job, he re- textile factories worldwide. tors need to demand certain standards.” called a few minor burns from hot water or vapor, It’s a topic that hosiery and intimates workers in He also said his company had reduced the work- but no serious accidents. this district of northern Italy — a stone’s throw from force from 16 to nine recently, and his staff works “We have the equipment to weigh the dyes — each Lake Garda, surrounded by grape vines and herds seven-and-a-half hours a day, with a half-hour break dye is weighed with a machine. Workers are no longer of sheep — take very seriously. For years, as Italy midshift. Workers rotate when they need to take a in direct contact with the dyes,” interjected his son has watched many of its storied factories close, the break, so the machines always attended. Gianluca Moreni, who also works at the plant. “So local industries have been campaigning to prove that Alfredo Posenato, Castel Goffredo’s newly elect- there’s no contamination of the skin and [little] risk of there are distinct advantages to producing here. ed mayor, said that, generations ago, Italy and other developing health problems over time.” Castel Goffredo has been a textile hub since the Western countries did not guarantee their work- The plant’s director, Guido Morelli, a 27-year vet- Middle Ages: Isabella d’Este, Marquess of Mantua and ers the salaries and safety conditions that now eran of the firm, said there was “very little employee a Renaissance fashion legend, spent much of her life are stringently enforced by the turnover — usually those who join in this region. In the 20th century and especially after European Union, and national the company, stay for many years.” World War II, hosiery and intimates became the local and regional authorities. The day starts at 8 a.m. with a specialty, and a visit to the factories revealed that many “The rules of physics and eco- break at noon, and the second shift are still family-run. nomics are very similar. If you goes from 1:30 to 5:30 p.m. Maurizio Castrini, owner of Calzificio Lemar spill a liquid, the liquid moves A worker who gave her name as and son of its founder, counts most of his family where it finds the least resis- Pamela confirmed that she works on the staff. Now 53, he said he began working at tance,” said Posenato. “This eight hours a day, saying, “With the factory at age 15, before spending several years doesn’t mean that one shouldn’t this [economic] crisis, those eight at a textile machine plant. His company currently go to Bangladesh. This means that hours are more than welcome.” employs 25 people. it’s right to go everywhere in the Francesco Mori, who joined the “In the end, we all know each other,” Castrini said world, but using shared regula- plant 19 years ago, said he was re- of Castel Goffredo’s hosiery workers. tions [and] rules.” sponsible for testing dye colors on a At Calzificio Lemar and Kleo — joint production To promote Castel Goffredo’s in- small scale, to make sure colors on factories, one specialized in hosiery and the other dustry, he said he is working with swatches matched client requests in seamless undergarments — long rows of machines local authorities to crack down on and to minimize color variation whirred, connected to spools of thread and needles the illegal businesses that have perceived in varying natural lights. that were stitching socks, undershirts and boxer sprouted up in the area — many “Once I’ve decided on the right per- shorts. Employee Michael Pistoni was entering weav- Chinese-run, like the textile fac- centage of color, I pass the informa- ing instructions into a software system that regulates tories in Prato, Tuscany, that have tion on to production,” he said. the needles’ positions. been the subject of heated debate. Workers also test dyes for “I didn’t study textiles, but I studied mechanics,” “The majority of these firms bleeding and ensure that if chil- he explained. The room Pistoni and his colleagues are illicit, because they don’t pay dren were to put the fabric into worked in was temperature controlled and they were taxes, or they don’t pay sales tax, their mouths, they would not in- required to wear earplugs. or because they hire illegal immi- On the floor at Calzificio Lemar. gest harmful substances. “Without sounding presumptuous, I can say that grants, or because maybe out of 30 Tintoria Manifattura Barbara over so many years we have more experience [than workers, only two are legal,” Posenato said. “Illegal monitors the water in its purification plant daily. competing countries],” Castrini said. “Unfortunately, activity is not always easy to spot. But we need to use Behind the plant, four Arabian horses, a cluster of what hurts us a lot is the gap in labor costs compared the available instruments — for example, we can chickens and two rabbits could be seen sunbathing. to other countries — that and energy costs.” go to electricity providers and cross-reference en- According to data from the International Labour He said the average base net monthly salary for a ergy consumption rates with registered users. That’s Organization, a United Nations agency, median worker at his factory ranged from 1,200 to 1,500 euros, something that’s never been done here.” weekly hours worked in Italy in the textile manu- or about $1,575 to $1,969 at current exchange. “The Relative to other local businesses, Calze Ileana, facturing industry was 38 in 2010. In China in 2008, problem is that for [the company] it costs double that,” founded in 1982 by Ileana Pinelli, is a new operation. the weekly hours actually worked by manufacturing Castrini said, referring to taxation, which in Italy covers With about 25 employees — including Pinelli’s chil- employees in general was 45.2, and in Bangladesh, the national health plan, pensions and other benefits. dren, Luca Bondioli and Alda Bondioli — the firm where the most recently available figures are from According to an estimate from A.Di.Ci, the local as- specializes in trend research and design, and while 2006, the average number of hours worked by manu- sociation of hosiery and intimates companies, a tex- product finishing and ironing are done in-house, other facturing employees was 54. tile worker in Italy is guaranteed about 20 days paid production stages are completed by neighboring facto- It’s impossible for distributors and retailers not to vacation each year, plus 56 hours of paid personal ries. Ileana has created hosiery for some of the most know conditions at factories, Bondioli said. leave and six national holidays. Women are also given prominent high fashion brands. “From me, [companies] demand this type of prod- about a year’s mandatory paid maternity leave. An ironing employee at Ileana could expect to uct at a lower price. This markup is being discussed, “Our companies have the machinery to be competi- earn about 27,000 euros (gross) a year ($35,440), which we’re not talking about dollars, we’re talking about tive, the problem is the costs and taxes are too high,” amounts to about 1,000 euros (net) a month ($1,312), cents,” he insisted. “Do these [extra] cents justify the agreed Andrea Dara, owner of hosiery producer paid for 13 months because of a December bonus. investments we make and how we treat our workers? Manifattura Mara. “I’m not arguing that we should re- Increases are slated for additional years of experience, I absolutely think so.”

10 WWD MONDAY, JULY 29, 2013 SECTION III

WWDINTIMATES Heating Up the Castle

IT WAS A no-frills century. that looked sort of like night- by a Victorian….The shifts Rebecca Ferguson as Elizabeth Woodville and Faye No lace, no corsetry and no ies,” said Ede. “Sometimes we were of linen, a fine cotton Marsay as Anne Neville with Hale. bloomers. used a bra just to give a little and a very fine wool to keep But the come-hither appeal cleavage, but the high-waisted warm during the winter. This of wispy little slips, chemises bodices of the court gowns give was really the case up until and nighties — along with the the proper support. Bloomers the Victorians, and even occasional garter and hose — were to come later in history. the Georgians,” explained Ede. “They lived very hearty lives, played a lot of outdoor games and ate tremendous Amanda amounts of food so the calo- Hale as ries would keep them warm Margaret in the cold castles.” Beaufort. Ede noted that lace gained popularity later, especially during the reign of Elizabeth I. “Lace for me is the next century, the Elizabethan and Stuarts era. Using no lace makes it look like the period. I focused on a very minimal humble background. All of not to use tights on the men, so silhouette and let the textiles her court gowns are very I used padded trousers, which talk for themselves,” said Ede, simple. I dressed Max a little were fine to use because in who used an average of 10 like the Sun King — light and Britain it was bloody cold. We yards of brocade, velvet and airy,” he said. put the women in cotton stock- silk for each gown. Legwear was a key accessory ings that were held up with Ede said the austere period worn by both men and women. a garter,” Ede revealed. “We of “The White Queen” mirrors “Men wore stockings, but actually used contemporary the personality of Woodville. there was no Lycra or anything tights, but you never see them were the weapons of seduction The men simply wore a breech “I wanted to show a woman elastic back then, so the stock- in the series.” for the ladies of the royal court, cloth, the same as you would who had not forgotten her ings got very baggy. I decided — KARYN MONGET according to Nic Ede, costume see on Christ on the Cross… designer for the historical ﬁc- almost like boxers gathered tion drama “The White Queen.” on a drawstring. It was not an Set to air Aug. 10 on Starz, attractive [under] garment.” the medieval miniseries Ede — a 30-year veteran takes place in England in of the film industry whose 1464, during The War of the costume design credits in- Roses. Edward IV of England, clude “Hysteria” starring played by Max Irons, meets Maggie Gyllenhaal and “Me his true love on a road- and Orson Welles” with side, a commoner named Claire Danes — said the Elizabeth Woodville [Rebecca “ubiquitous shift” often dou- Ferguson] whom he weds. bled as a sleep gown. “I never used underwear “The night gowns were with the clothes, just shifts not dissimilar to those worn

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