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Large Print Guide Large Print Guide You can download this document from www.manchesterartgallery.org Sponsored by While principally a fashion magazine, Vogue has never been just that. Since its first issue in 1916, it has assumed a central role on the cultural stage with a history spanning the most inventive decades in fashion and taste, and in the arts and society. It has reflected events shaping the nation and Vogue 100: A Century of Style has been organised by the world, while setting the agenda for style and fashion. the National Portrait Gallery, London in collaboration with Tracing the work of era-defining photographers, models, British Vogue as part of the magazine’s centenary celebrations. writers and designers, this exhibition moves through time from the most recent versions of Vogue back to the beginning of it all... 24 June – 30 October Free entrance A free audio guide is available at: bit.ly/vogue100audio Entrance wall: The publication Vogue 100: A Century of Style and a selection ‘Mighty Aphrodite’ Kate Moss of Vogue inspired merchandise is available in the Gallery Shop by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, June 2012 on the ground floor. For Vogue’s Olympics issue, Versace’s body-sculpting superwoman suit demanded ‘an epic pose and a spotlight’. Archival C-type print Photography is not permitted in this exhibition Courtesy of Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott Introduction — 3 FILM ROOM THE FUTURE OF FASHION Alexa Chung Drawn from the following films: dir. Jim Demuth, September 2015 OUCH! THAT’S BIG Anna Ewers HEAT WAVE Damaris Goddrie and Frederikke Sofie dir. Canada, July 2015 dir. Tyrone Lebon, February 2016 HOW TO WEAR PINK Ola Rudnicka OUT OF THE SHADE Dakota Johnson dir. Bertrand Le Pluard, July 2015 dir. Alasdair McLellan, February 2016 MERCURY RISING Freya Beha Erichsen KARLIE KLOSS AND LES TWINS dir. Ivan Shaw; dir. Glen Luchford, June 2015 photographer Patrick Demarchelier, December 2015 AT HOME WITH POPPY DELEVINGNE KARLIE KLOSS dir. Columbine Goldsmith, December 2015 dir. Barbara Anastacio, June 2015 THE SPY WHO LOVED ME Léa Seydoux COUTURE QUEEN Emilia Clarke dir. Francesco Roversi; dir. Jeremie Rozan, November 2015 photographer Paolo Roversi, May 2015 COOKING UP A STORM Sienna Miller SEVIGNY STYLE Chloë Sevigny dir. Tyrone Lebon, May 2015 dir. Mario Testino, October 2015 IN THE LAND OF DREAMY DREAMS Karen Elson HOW TO BE BRITISH Sienna Miller dir. Tim Walker, May 2015 dir. Justin Anderson, October 2015 MISS VOGUE’S DATE WITH CRESSIDA BONAS BROOKLYN BECKHAM’S GUIDE TO INSTAGRAM dir. Sean Thomas, April 2015 dir. Niall Kenny, October 2015 GIRLS ON FILM Cara Delevingne, Georgia May Jagger THE SHINING Line Brems, Aamito Lagum and Kiki Willems and Suki Waterhouse dir. Mario Testino, April 2015 dir. Francesco Roversi; photographer Paolo Roversi September 2015 DARK ANGEL Aya Jones, Xiao Wen Ju, Harleth Kuusik, Yumi Lambert and Nastya Sten dir. Tim Walker March 2015 ON GENDER EQUALITY Stella McCartney, Erdem Moralioglu, Jonathan Saunders and Emma Watson NATURAL WONDER Mia Goth dir. Joe Conrad Williams; dir. Kathryn Ferguson, September 2015 photographer Harley Weir, January 2015 4 — Film Room Film Room — 5 THE SHOOTING PARTY THE FACE Cara Delevingne dir. Tim Walker, December 2014 dir. Alasdair McLellan, January 2014 TAYLOR MADE Taylor Swift MADE IN BRITAIN – Edie Campbell, Jean Campbell, Karen dir. Mario Testino, November 2014 Elson, Malaika Firth, Stephen Jones, Kate Moss and Gareth Pugh dir. Tim Walker, December 2013 THE HOMECOMING Naomi Campbell dir. Bruce Weber, September 2014 THE BAD BOY OF BALLET – Sergei Polunin dir. Matty Melvin; photographer Nik Hartley THE POSH TEST Matthew Beard, Douglas Booth, Sam Claflin, October 2013 Jack Farthing, Freddie Fox, Josh O’Connor and Sam Reid dir. Pundersons Gardens; photographer Scott Trindle MEET ME IN MONTAUK Jean Campbell and Ian Mellencamp August 2014 dir. Bruce Weber, October 2013 WAY OUT WEST Dree Hemingway PRIMA DONNA Catherine McNeil dir. Angelo Pennetta, July 2014 dir. Mario Testino, September 2013 ELLE OF THE BALL Elle Fanning PINK LADY Cara Delevingne dir. Lucy Luscombe; dir. Angelo Pennetta June 2014 photographer Walter Pfeiffer,September 2013 LIFE THROUGH A LENS Suvi Koponen ALL ABOUT EDIE Edie Campbell dir. Mike Cunliffe; dir. Glen Luchford, April 2014 photographer David Sims, April 2013 PARADISE CITY Charlotte Free and Georgia May Jagger HEARTBREAK HOTEL Guinevere van Seenus dir. Tyrone Lebon, March 2014 dir. Charlie Robins; photographer Javier Vallhonrat April 2013 POP CORE Kätlin Aas, Lexi Boling and Sam Rollinson dir. Pundersons Gardens; photographer Craig McDean IF I TAKE YOUR PHOTOGRAPH, WILL YOU TAKE MINE? March 2014 Mia Wasikowska dir. Bruce Weber, September 2012 RAINBOW BABE Daria Werbowy Conceived and compiled by dir. Mario Testino, March 2014 Venetia van Hoorn Alkema and Jana Otte Music mixed by John Monkman MEET THE MODELS Georgia May Jagger, Sam Rollinson Running time: 3 minutes and Charlotte Wiggins dir. Lucy Luscombe, February 2014 6 — Film Room Film Room — 7 ‘MODERN MARINERS PUT OUT TO SEA’ by George Hoyningen-Huene, July 1930 ICONS Swimwear by Izod. The subjects share a sporty boyishness. 100 YEARS IN VOGUE ‘Modern people,’ Huene observed, ‘seem so androgynous to me’. From 1916 to today, Vogue’s image-makers have not just Vintage bromide print been the great names in fashion and portraiture, but the Collection of William T. Hillman, New York; great names of modern photography itself: from Baron Adolph promised gift to the Carnegie Museum of Art, Pittsburgh de Meyer to Mario Testino, from Irving Penn to Nick Knight. Here, at the start of this century-wide survey, is a selection from Vogue’s greatest moments. ‘RENAISSANCE’ Wenda Rogerson, London by Clifford Coffin,June 1947 From left to right beneath ‘100 YEARS...’ signage: A bomb-damaged staircase in Grosvenor Square and an evening gown by Rahvis. DOLORES WITH CRYSTAL BALL Vintage bromide print by Baron Adolph de Meyer, May 1919 The Condé Nast Archive, London A Ziegfeld showgirl, Dolores was the star of Midnight Frolic. A clip in platinum and diamond by Cartier fixes her veil. YVES SAINT LAURENT AT HIS FIRST COLLECTION, PARIS by Irving Penn, Vintage bromide print February 1958 (unpublished version) Qatar Museums The 22-year-old designer was appointed head designer at Christian Dior in 1957, following the death of the fashion DETOLLE CORSET FOR MAINBOCHER house’s founder. by Horst, September 1939 Bromide print (printed later) Madame Bernon wears a corset designed for the American The Irving Penn Foundation couturier Mainbocher. This was the German photographer Horst’s last photograph before fleeing Paris for the United States. When he returned it was as an American citizen. Vintage bromide print Courtesy of Andrew Cowan 8 — Icons Icons — 9 TWIGGY ON A RALEIGH MOTOR BICYCLE ‘FASHION’S NEW SPIRIT’ Sarah Murray in South London by Ronald Traeger, July 1967 by Corinne Day, March 1993 ‘Twiggy is called Twiggy,’ explained Vogue, ‘because she looks ‘Floaty layers in a field of dreams’, a long coat as if a strong gale would snap her in two and dash her to the and shift dress by Comme des Garçons. ground’. Seersucker dress by Twiggy at Miss Selfridge. Vintage C-type colour print Vintage bromide print The Condé Nast Archive, London Courtesy of Tessa Traeger, Keeper of the Ronald Traeger Archive ‘GOLD KATE’ by Nick Knight, December 2000 The theme for the end of the first year of the new millennium ‘SCENES FROM THE SOVIET UNION’ was gold and all it signified. For Vogue the most inventive British Jerry Hall in Armenia by Norman Parkinson, January 1976 designers created special gold outfits. The swan-necked profile On top of the statue of Thamar on the banks of Lake Sevan, was by now instantly recognisable. Armenia, in a jersey swimsuit by C&A. Screen print on foil Archival C-type print from original colour transparency Courtesy of Nick Knight and SHOWstudio Norman Parkinson Ltd/ Courtesy Norman Parkinson Archive ‘HOPE AND GLORY’ Kate Moss ‘UNDER WESTON EYES’ Bruce Hulse and Talisa Soto by Mario Testino, October 2008 by Bruce Weber, 1982 In the Master Shipwright’s House at Deptford, a dress and This homage to the American photographer Edward Weston’s guipure by Elie Saab Couture and vintage union flag jacket way of seeing and way of life was shot in and around Weber’s by Russell Sage. home in Long Island. Archival C-type print Vintage bromide print Courtesy of Mario Testino The Condé Nast Archive, London 10 — Icons Icons — 11 A CENTURY IN PRINT Late February 1919 Fashion illustrations by Helen Dryden The Vogue Library has an archive of priceless photographs, numbering many hundreds of thousands, as well as the collection of original magazines. Dating back to 1916, many remain as fragile Late March 1920 single issues, but historically a copy of each was also bound into Cover illustration by George Plank volumes for reference. There are over 1500 issues of British On loan from the Museum of London Vogue, as well as various spin-offs. As much as its photographs, these are - as the magazine put it in 1942 - ‘the stuff of Vogue’. Early May 1921 In these cases is one original copy from each year of Cover illustration by George Plank Vogue’s existence. The timeline of copies includes Vogue On loan from the Museum of London covers, illustrated and photographic, and a selection of double page spreads. Apart from showing Vogue’s photographs and Early December 1922 illustrations in context, it presents another important aspect of Fashion posed by Justine Johnstone the magazine’s history: its art direction and graphic design for Photographs by Beck & Macgregor which it has been celebrated throughout the century. Starting from by the main entrance, follow the cases Late May 1923 Portrait of Coco Chanel by Wladimir Rehbinder back and forth across the room from left to right: All issues on loan from the archive of British Vogue Early January 1924 unless otherwise stated.
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