69134-ECF-L_319-366.qxd 8/17/2004 7:36 AM Page 319 L LABELING LAWS For thousands of years, people In the early days of this act, the FTC assigned Wool only had natural fibers to care for and use. But with the Products Labeling (WPL) numbers to particular manu- explosion of manufactured fibers, blends, and finishes af- facturers or retailers of wool. Since each company would ter World War II came confusion. Manufacturers gave retain its number forever and some manufacturers have their own products trade names that meant very little to changed their products’ fiber content from wool to such consumers. A real need for more information was pro- nonwool fiber as polyester, some nonwool products have vided in the form of a series of labeling laws. a WPL number. Ruling on the Weighting of Silk Fur Products Labeling Act In its natural state, silk has a gummy feel, and it is usual Fur fibers that have been removed from the animal’s skin practice to remove the gum. In so doing, however, the are subject to the rules set forth in the Wool Products weight of the silk is greatly reduced. To counter that loss, Labeling Act and the TFPIA. Labeling of fur fibers at- in the late nineteenth century, manufacturers began the tached to the skin is regulated by the Fur Products La- weighting of silk to counteract the weight lost by degum- beling Act. The labels must contain the animal’s species ming raw silk. Silk was subjected to metallic salts, which and may include the adjective form of the country (such could be absorbed in quantities greater than the weight as Russian Mink or Canadian Fisher). Labels must also pro- of the silk itself. While the immediate result was a fab- vide the name or registered number (RN or WPL) of the ric with a heavier hand, the long-term effect was to cre- manufacturer, importer, or other distributor. The coun- ate a fabric that tended to split into shreds. Since the try of origin must be given. If the fur has been colored, consumer had no way of discerning this, the U.S. Fed- pointed, or bleached, the label must state this. If the fur eral Trade Commission (FTC) ruled in 1938 that silk has not been so treated, it should be labeled as Natural. weighted more than 10 percent and black silk weighted more than 15 percent must be labeled Weighted Silk Flammable Fabrics Act While this ruling remained in effect in the early twenty- The original act banned the use of highly flammable ma- first century, few silk items were weighted by then. terials for clothing. In 1967, the law was amended to in- clude highly flammable household textiles. Further Wool Products Labeling Act amendments have banned the use of all flammable ma- According to this act, most products that contain any terials for carpets, draperies, mattresses, upholstery, and amount of wool must be labeled by the name of the wool children’s sleepwear (sizes 0–14). Standards for each of source and percentage weight, even if it is less than 5 per- these products may be found on the Web site of the Fed- cent. They must distinguish between wool (also known as eral Trade Commission (www.ftc.gov). “virgin wool” and “new wool”) and recycled wool, wool from a textile product that has been returned to a fibrous Textile Fiber Products Identification Act state and remade into a different product. The manufac- The TFPIA requires that the name of the fibers (natural, turer’s name or number registered with the FTC must be such as cotton, or the generic name for manufactured on the label as well as (since 1984) the country of origin. fibers, such as nylon) be listed in descending order by Some products, such as hats and slippers that con- percent weight of the total. If fibers are present in quan- tain some wool, must be labeled under this labeling act tities of less than 5 percent, they should be listed as other even though they are exempt under the Textile Fiber fiber(s). If several fibers constitute less than 5 percent Products Identification Act (TFPIA). The following each, they should be combined and listed as other fibers, items, when made of wool, are exempt from the provi- even if their combined total is greater than 5 percent. sions of this act: carpets, rugs, mats (though these are Two exceptions exist: because of the Wool Products La- covered by the TFPIA), upholsteries, and wool products beling Act, all products containing wool must be listed, destined for export. even if the percentage is less than 5 percent. Also, those 319 69134-ECF-L_319-366.qxd 8/17/2004 7:36 AM Page 320 LABELING LAWS products that provide a definite functional property in quired to list only one method. For items that can be amounts of less than 5 percent may be listed as such with- cleaned by the harshest methods, the label should read, out explaining what the functional significance is. Small Wash or Dry Clean, Any Normal Method. This means that amounts of spandex lend a good deal of stretch to a gar- the item could safely be machine-washed in hot water, ment, for example. bleached with any bleach, tumble-dried hot, and ironed Pile fabrics can list fibers by total weight only. How- at a hot setting. It also means that the item could be dry- ever, if a label lists fibers as 100% nylon pile, 100% cotton cleaned using any solvent. For items that cannot be safely back, the label must also add the fibers by weight: 60% cleaned by any means, the label should read, Do Not cotton, 40% nylon; in other words, the back is 60 percent Wash—Do Not Dry Clean. of the fabric and the pile is 40 percent. Those fibers com- Washing instructions include five elements, out- posed of two or more chemically distinct fibers must be lined below: listed as biconstituent or multiconstituent. Washing. The label must say if hand-washing or machine- The manufacturer’s name or registered identifica- washing is recommended. Also, unless the product can tion number (RN or WPL) must be given. Consumers be washed in hot water, a temperature must be specified. can find out the name of the company by going to the Bleaching. If any available bleach can be used without FTC Web site (www.ftc.gov), clicking on Business Guid- harm, the label need not mention bleach. If chlorine ance, and then RN Lookup Service. bleach would damage the product, the label must say, The country of origin must be listed. Products made Only Non-Chlorine Bleach, When Needed. entirely in the United States of materials from the United Drying. The label must indicate how the product should States must be labeled Made in USA. Products made in be dried: tumble dry, dry flat, or drip dry. If the product the United States of imported materials must be labeled cannot be machine-dried at the hottest setting, then the as such: Made in USA of Imported Fabric. The country proper temperature must be stated. name for imported items must be written in English, but may be written in additional languages as well. The coun- Ironing. Ironing information is required if ironing will be try of origin information must always be on the front of needed on a regular basis. If ironing cannot be done at the the label. hottest setting, a proper temperature must be specified. All of the required fiber information may be put on Warnings. Special warnings must be given if a consumer one tag or several as long as the information is legible, might reasonably use a care procedure that would result conspicuous, and accessible to the consumer. All content in damage. A delicate garment suitable for hand-washing information must be in the same size print. Other extra- might need a Do Not Wring warning. Products that might neous information may be included on the fiber label as damage other items washed with them might need warn- long as it is not misleading to the consumer. ings such as Wash Separately or Wash with Like Colors. Warnings do not need to be used for alternative care pro- Care Labeling Rule cedures. If the label reads, Machine Wash Cold, it need The Care Labeling Rule of 1972 set down very specific not use the warning Do Not Wash in Hot Water. requirements for manufacturers and importers to follow. If garments can be safely dry cleaned with any sol- In 1984, the rule was amended to provide a Glossary of vent and there are no special conditions that require Standard Terms. In 1999, the American Society for Test- warnings, then the label may say, Dry Clean Only. These ing and Materials developed care symbols intended to be garments can be put in a dry-cleaning machine by the understandable around the world, despite language dif- consumer at a Laundromat or given to a professional dry ferences. In 2000, the Care Labeling Rule was amended cleaner. When a warning is needed, it should be stated again. In the early 2000s the rule requires that care in- after the words Professionally Dry Clean. For example, if struction apply to the entire garment. steam would cause damage, the label should read, Profes- According to the Care Labeling Rule, textile cloth- sionally Dry Clean—No Steam. ing and piece goods (fabric sold to home sewers) must carry a care label outlining safe cleaning procedures. In See also Dry Cleaning; Fibers; Fur; Silk; Wool.