Albuquerque Morning Journal, 03-19-1922 Journal Publishing Company
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How Fashion Invades the Concert Stage
MPA 0014 HOW FASHION INVADES THE CONCERT STAGE by MAUD POWELL Published in Musical America December 26, 1908 The amateur who dreams of a life of fame in music, has one of two ideas about her future work. If she has talent and personality, she fancies that her playing alone will bring the desired recognition; if artistic and fond of dress, she has visions of beautiful gowns trailing behind her on the concert platform, producing a picture of harmony and elegance. Both pictures have other sides, however. For dress plays almost as important a part in the concert as the talent itself and becomes, as the season progresses, a veritable “Old Man of the Sea.” The professional woman owes it to her public to dress fashionably, for the simple gowns of former years have passed into obscurity and with the increased importance of dress in everyday life, it has spread into all professions, until the carelessly dressed woman or one whose clothes are hopelessly old fashioned has no place in the scheme of things. The business woman receives much help from the fashion periodicals; the mother of a large family is also reached and it is possible for many persons to procure ready-made clothing, thus obviating the necessity of shopping and fitting. Valuable as these two are in the acquiring of an up-to-date wardrobe, they help the musician but little. It is absolutely essential that she have a certain style and individuality in the selection of her gowns, particularly those which must be worn before a critical audience. -
ENGLISH Booklet Accompanying the Exhibition Robes Politiques — Women Power Fashion 19.3.2021– 6.2.2022
ROBES POLITIQUES WOMEN POWER FASHION ENGLISH booklet accompanying the exhibition robes politiques — women power fashion 19.3.2021– 6.2.2022 ern-oriented countries, and in the first half of the 20th century, women fought FEMALE POWER for voting and representation rights in AND POWERLESSNESS many states. A HISTORICAL In the 19th century, Switzerland was con- PERSPECTIVE sidered one of the most progressive de- mocracies. Nonetheless, in 1971, it was one of the last European states to intro- duce voting and representation rights for In the past, the ruling thrones of Eu- women. Up to this point, Swiss women rope were almost exclusively occupied had been denied political office. Swit- by men. Women who ruled in their own zerland is still a long way from gender right were the exception. In many coun- equality in terms of numbers, both in par- tries, female family members were ex- liament and the Federal Council. cluded from succession to the throne by law. However, even in countries which did not recognize a female line of suc- cession, it was not unusual for female regents to be able to reign for a limited period as a substitute for a male ruler. In the subordinate role of mother or wife to the king, too, women were far from powerless and were able to pull strings politically. With the French Revolution of 1789, the absolutist form of government was abol- ished and new political relations estab- lished. These were based on the prin- ciple that the people, not a single ruler, were holders of state power. -
9 What People Wore.Pdf
Silhouees: What Men and Women Wore in 1860-1920 New Castle The Height of Fashion: Delaware Women Dress Up” By Susan Hannell, Peggy Litchko & Betsy Marno 2014 Plus Fashion Plates from other sources. Video A ‘Gibson Girl’ Comparison of clothing men’s clothing worn in New Castle with that worn in Victorian England In England, according to Ruth Goodman: • Hats were rarely removed in public • Waistcoats & jackets were both to be worn at all mes • Shirts not to be seen except in very informal situaons. • Pants became straight legged similar to modern ones • Underpants & undershirt or ‘union suit’ were worn Men’s and boys clothing in New Castle c1878, late Victorian mes. EVERY ONE of the people was wearing a hat, almost all were wearing a jacket and many were wearing a waistcoat (“vest”). Neckwear in portraits of men from New Castle was a cravat or ruffle unl about 1830. Coats were single or double breasted and full cut except for two seamen with youthful figures. [Cutaway jackets emphasize one’s midriff] 1759 d1798 c1804 <1811 c1830? 1785 c1805 1830 1840-1850? In 1815, Mrs. James McCullough (builder of 30 the Strand) sent her husband a package including cravats and yellow coon pants, and comments that he needs new ruffles on his shirts. (He parcularly liked “a handsomely plaited ruffle”) Nankeen trousers: (yellow coon) c1759, Anna Dorothea Finney Amstel House, 2 E 4th, by John Hesselius Lace trimmed san dress Panniers under skirt, or dome-shaped hoops, One piece; not separate bodice and skirt Bodice closed with hook & loop No stomacher Worn over a -
The Morgue File 2010
the morgue file 2010 DONE BY: ASSIL DIAB 1850 1900 1850 to 1900 was known as the Victorian Era. Early 1850 bodices had a Basque opening over a che- misette, the bodice continued to be very close fitting, the waist sharp and the shoulder less slanted, during the 1850s to 1866. During the 1850s the dresses were cut without a waist seam and during the 1860s the round waist was raised to some extent. The decade of the 1870s is one of the most intricate era of women’s fashion. The style of the early 1870s relied on the renewal of the polonaise, strained on the back, gath- ered and puffed up into an detailed arrangement at the rear, above a sustaining bustle, to somewhat broaden at the wrist. The underskirt, trimmed with pleated fragments, inserting ribbon bands. An abundance of puffs, borders, rib- bons, drapes, and an outlandish mixture of fabric and colors besieged the past proposal for minimalism and looseness. women’s daywear Victorian women received their first corset at the age of 3. A typical Victorian Silhouette consisted of a two piece dress with bodice & skirt, a high neckline, armholes cut under high arm, full sleeves, small waist (17 inch waist), full skirt with petticoats and crinoline, and a floor length skirt. 1894/1896 Walking Suit the essential “tailor suit” for the active and energetic Victorian woman, The jacket and bodice are one piece, but provide the look of two separate pieces. 1859 zouave jacket Zouave jacket is a collarless, waist length braid trimmed bolero style jacket with three quarter length sleeves. -
Isuy . Rt Goods I
I at CENTER »TnR>\ THE SHOPFTHG Tf^v J.K tst I White Petticoats Corset Coirers, Daintily Trim- II 00 and $1.19 med I, Special, 59c I . - le Muslin Petticoat* with em- Of sheer in nscloth and batiste The lacA I .a'.$.1; and beautiflert w ith rib- broidery flounce an d protecting "drop.'' At $1.19 embroidery trlmmlngi B iSuym Hie White Sateen I with ruffle bona. Some wit!i ribbon stiouldei straps. Won- B A ofAll 1918 II' WLili A T.T.ftfFD 'ettiooat*, pleated .to derful values at 59c. Ilaricain llimrmrat, B tleventh and C Streets are d Ranrmrai. only if Clearing E1677 JUL Both extra %oo values. Ranrnln DresseseducedPrices I * r; GARMENTS OF 1UNUSUAL BEAUTY I | 5 At $2, Ureat Januatry Salles Now in :1P $15, 3.50, $47.75 arkable Reductions At $47<:75.At this choose from the price I 5rices on AH Our - resscs our All - / i-. \ Finest D from regular stocks. at I an in ss F| crepe. Each exclusiveMostGeorgette Readines for Our Gre* d not to be duplicated in Washington. U" oys' Suits prices were up to S85. Tomorrow, ^4 [ Overcoats 75.Charming models assembled hat? large racks. Shown in sizes for worn- nisses. Fashioned of de chines, crepe fjovs> $j0.00 Mackinaws, sizes 8 to 12, Silk 5 e crepe and combinations. Colors are reduced tr $6.95 .......mary lues and black. Former prices were up L___ Tomorrow, $23.75. Boys' $12.50 to $15.00 Mackinaws, sizes 8 /"V f \ £~ to 14, reduc ed to$8-95 TO -41 to $20 Value Mackinaws sizes nl/» f FI a Im#II 00.A lot of ^ " \ )0 Worth Silks splendid pleated 8 toT/* re" iced to $11.95 Brand-New Chine Dresses, in navy, taupe, brown, Boy*' $10.00 Value Norfolk Suits, with A _ ^*#1 . -
Crazy for You'
o",."c ""C-""""""""'~T"'~-- . .. ,. ~ . \."-' COSTUMEPLOT: "CRAZY FOR YOU' Act I scene1 Backstageat the Zangler Theatre BOBBY: Black tuxedo,black vest. white tux shirt, black bowtie TESS: dressand sweater PATSY: showgirl costume ASSORTEDSHOWGIRLS: 4 in matchingpanniers, leotards and headpiecesfor the "performance" 3 others(magician, circus act, baton twirler) ACROBATS: 3 Men in unitards with capesand trunks STAGE MANAGER: pants,open vest. shirt sleevesrolled up, loosetie STAGE HAND(S): similar to stagemanager OR in coveralls ZANGLER: black tails, white vest. white tie, white gloves,fur coat worn over shoulders Also needswig and goatee NOTE: BOBBY will needa DUPLICATE of Zangler's wig and goateefor his impersonation of Zangler MITZI: showgirl costume Act I scene2 OutsideZangler Theatre; later that evening BOBBY: repeatabove TESS:Repeat above; add coat and hat (lightweight for autumn) ",~,. PATSY: similar to Tess if\; SHOWGIRLS (optional): 4 in coatsand hats IRENE: Evening gown and matching coat, hat or headpiece LACKEY#l: Businesssuit attire LACKEY #2: Businesssuit attire CHAUFFEUR:Chauffeur uniform and hat, glovesoptional BOBBY'S MOTHER: Evening dressand coat with furs, elaborateheadpiece or hat, gloves,excessive jewelry and matching shoes PERKINS: Dark businesssuit attire PINK FOLLIES GIRLS (Bobby'sFantasy Number "Can't be BotheredNow"): Pink wigs, pink sequin showgirl costumeswith matching gauntlets;silver tap shoesrecommended NOTE: Our versionof theseare basedupon the original Broadwaydesign and havea thong. It is adviseablefor your -
Augusta Auction Company Historic Fashion & Textile
AUGUSTA AUCTION COMPANY HISTORIC FASHION & TEXTILE AUCTION MAY 9, 2017 STURBRIDGE, MASSACHUSETTS 1 TRAINED CHARMEUSE EVENING GOWN, c. 1912 Cream silk charmeuse w/ vine & blossom pattern, empire bodice w/ silk lace & sequin overlay, B to 38", W 28", L 53"-67", (small holes to lace, minor thread pulls) very good. MCNY 2 DECO LAME EVENING GOWN, LATE 1920s Black silk satin, pewter lame in Deco pattern, B to 36", Low W to 38", L 44"-51", excellent. MCNY 3 TWO EMBELLISHED EVENING GOWNS, 1930s 1 purple silk chiffon, attached lace trimmed cape, rhinestone bands to back & on belt, B to 38", W to 31", L 58", (small stains to F, few holes on tiers) fair; 1 rose taffeta underdress overlaid w/ copper tulle & green silk flounce, CB tulle drape, silk ribbon floral trim, B to 38", W 28", L 60", NY label "Blanche Yovin", (holes to net, long light hem stains) fair- good. MCNY 4 RHINESTONE & VELVET EVENING DRESS, c. 1924 Sapphire velvet studded w/ rhinestones, lame under bodice, B 32", H 36", L 50"-53", (missing stones, lame pulls, pink lining added & stained, shoulder straps pinned to shorten for photo) very good. MCNY 5 MOLYNEUX COUTURE & GUGGENHEIM GOWNS, 1930-1950s Both black silk & labeled: 1 late 30s ribbed crepe, "Molyneux", couture tape "11415", surplice bodice & button back, B to 40", W to 34", H to 38", L 58", yellow & black ikat sash included, (1 missing button) excellent; "Mingolini Guggenheim Roma", strapless multi-layered sheath, B 34", W 23", H 35", CL 46"-50", (CF seam unprofessionally taken in by hand, zipper needs replacing) very good. -
Tm Array 1 Present Alcorn
v ; •&-Z: V. I--<f ,2 feilS ^^*;vV.'- s. 'v.", '.••< :, •-:• •;•;,&• ^rUO»V: ' S THE PRESS IS® A .A i*-.A /,{••'fo'jj-T An Institution Which Works wm-": THE PRESS A Home Town Paper For :0 For Community Ad- \ s!i vancement. r ; \ Home /Town •• . : -r I IS asie'. Folks. THE ONLY NEWSPAPER PUBLISHED IN THE TOWN OF ENFIELl), CONN. 't'H\}5% FORTY-SEVENTH YEAH—NO. 24. THOMPSONVILLE, CONNECTICUT, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 7, 1926 PRICE $2.00 A YEAR—SINGLE COPY 5c. .T.MARRAY 1 Frank A. Simmons TOWN SEEKS TO ^v*Civic Program DR. VAIL AGAIN First Selectmen TOWN MEETING fil New Tax Collector RECOVER AMOUNT i^v?Up To Nov. 2. HEADS THE TOWN James T. Murray MAKES NO CHANGE .. Saturday, Oct. 9, Wednesday, OF TAX SHORTAGE Oct. 13, and Saturday, Oct. 16: c •' 'v^ >-*' SCHOOL BOARD IN THE BUDGET Mill inn i i Meeting of the Selectmen and Defeats A. J. Epstein by Town Clerk to admit electors Formal Demand Made from the perfected list. Any Hertry R. Cooper is Also Finance Board Recom i Majority of 203 Votes— of the Surety Company prospective elector who is not made at this meeting cannot Reelected Secretary at mendations are Adopt Frank A. Simmons Is in Which Former Town vote at the state election, No Reorganization Meet I Successful in the Tax vember 2nd. I ed—Property Tax Col Was Bonded, To Make Monday, Oct. 11: Caucus of ing of the Board Held lector's Pay Made $1,- ? Collector Contest. • W Good the Defalcation. Republican electors in the Hig- gins School 'Auditorium, for the Tuesday Afternoon. -
FALL / WINTER 2017/2018 2017. Is It Fall and Winter?
THE FASHION GROUP FOUNDATION PRESENTS FALL / WINTER 2017/2018 TREND OVERVIEW BY MARYLOU LUTHER N E W Y O R K • LONDON • MILAN • PARIS DOLCE & GABBANA 2017. Is it Fall and Winter? Now and Next? Or a fluid season of see it/buy it and see it/wait for it? The key word is fluid, as in… Gender Fluid. As more women lead the same business lives as men, the more the clothes for those shared needs become less sex-specific. Raf Simons of Calvin Klein and Anna Sui showed men and women in identical outfits. For the first time, significant numbers of male models shared the runways with female models. Some designers showed menswear separately from women’s wear but sequentially at the same site. Transgender Fluid. Marc Jacobs and Proenza Schouler hired transgender models. Transsexuals also modeled in London, Milan and Paris. On the runways, diversity is the meme of the season. Model selections are more inclusive—not only gender fluid, but also age fluid, race fluid, size fluid, religion fluid. And Location Fluid. Philipp Plein leaves Milan for New York. Rodarte’s Kate and Laura Mulleavy leave New York for Paris. Tommy Hilfiger, Rebecca Minkoff and Rachel Comey leave New York for Los Angeles. Tom Ford returns to New York from London and Los Angeles. Given all this fluidity, you could say: This is Fashion’s Watershed Moment. The moment of Woman as Warrior—armed and ready for the battlefield. Woman in Control of Her Body—to reveal, as in the peekaboobs by Anthony Vaccarello for Yves Saint Laurent. -
Ageless Style
Ageless style Our regular fashion writers, stylists and bloggers Marie and Claire from Surreyfrills.com track down the ever-bright and colourful Nicky Hambledon-Jones to discuss styling out your own indiviudual look, regardless of how many (or few) miles you might have on the clock Queen of the before and after and perennial style maven boutique offers a prestigious array of inspiring and Nicky Hambledon-Jones is probably best known for eclectic British and international labels. hosting the popular reality show 10 Years Younger. Here Nicky talks to us about her style inspiration, Hosting the hit series whilst imparting her style what’s on her Summer wish list and how to shop wisdom, the specs-ellent NJH spoke and the nation more mindfully post-lockdown. listened. Lucky for us, Nicky’s skilled sartorial touch knows Can you describe your style in three words? no boundaries; Nicky is notable as a top personal Tailored. Vibrant. Sophisticated. stylist, author of several books and a successful entrepreneur. In 2001, she launched the NHJ Style Is style ageless? Consultancy, followed by the NHJ Style Academy. Absolutely. I think the key word here is STYLE. The Academy offers supercharged training to anyone Fashions come and go but good style endures. A well- looking to turn their passion for fashion & styling dressed woman will catch your eye no matter what into a career with the tools, skills and connections to her age. It’s our secret weapon against ageing. You gain recognition and success. don’t have to look old, you don’t have to feel old, you Meeting Nicky, it’s evident that her speciality is just have to find a style that works for your shape and working with real people, helping them to redefine makes you feel good. -
Bruno Piattelli.Pdf
The Italian designer, one of the founders of Made in Italy BIOGRAPHY The Italian designer, one of the founders of Made in Italy BIOGRAPHY Born and raised in Rome, Piattelli attended the well-known Visconti “liceo” there before continuing his stu- dies, in law, at the Roman La Sapienza Univerity. He began his career helping in his father’s atelier in Piazza S. Sylvestro in Rome, which, when he started, already had a select and international clientele. Within only a few years time, Piattelli’s work was noticed by clothing and fabric manufacturers which lead to collaboration with important domestic and international fashion houses. Contracts were signed with: D’Avenza, Ellesse, Petronius, Lanerossi and Sanremo. He designed collections for Burberry’s of London and D’Urban of Tokyo. He collaborated with the NASA Space Mission designing knitwear for the astronauts. He created the uniforms for Zambia Airlines male and female flight attendants and for the hostesses of Dunhill of London. He made the uniforms for Alitalia’s male ground personnel and he dressed the Italian National Olympic Teams in Mexico City in 1968 and Atlanta in 1996. Piattelli Corners were opened in some of the most prestigious luxury department stores and shops such as Liberty’s in London, Barney’s in New York, Louis in Boston, The Executive in Johannesburg in South Africa. In Asia, Piattelli Corners were opened Hong Kong, Bangkok and Tokyo in Takashimaya, Mitsukoshi and Sei- bu luxury department stores. An invitation from the government of the Chinese People’s Republic to do a study of the clothing manufac- turing industry lead to a new adventure – a joint venture with the clothing manufacturing industry in China. -
Clothing Terms from Around the World
Clothing terms from around the world A Afghan a blanket or shawl of coloured wool knitted or crocheted in strips or squares. Aglet or aiglet is the little plastic or metal cladding on the end of shoelaces that keeps the twine from unravelling. The word comes from the Latin word acus which means needle. In times past, aglets were usually made of metal though some were glass or stone. aiguillette aglet; specifically, a shoulder cord worn by designated military aides. A-line skirt a skirt with panels fitted at the waist and flaring out into a triangular shape. This skirt suits most body types. amice amice a liturgical vestment made of an oblong piece of cloth usually of white linen and worn about the neck and shoulders and partly under the alb. (By the way, if you do not know what an "alb" is, you can find it in this glossary...) alb a full-length white linen ecclesiastical vestment with long sleeves that is gathered at the waist with a cincture aloha shirt Hawaiian shirt angrakha a long robe with an asymmetrical opening in the chest area reaching down to the knees worn by males in India anklet a short sock reaching slightly above the ankle anorak parka anorak apron apron a garment of cloth, plastic, or leather tied around the waist and used to protect clothing or adorn a costume arctic a rubber overshoe reaching to the ankle or above armband a band usually worn around the upper part of a sleeve for identification or in mourning armlet a band, as of cloth or metal, worn around the upper arm armour defensive covering for the body, generally made of metal, used in combat.