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Clothing and Power in the Royal World of Catherine of Aragon, Anne Boleyn, and Elizabeth I)
University of New Hampshire University of New Hampshire Scholars' Repository Inquiry Journal 2020 Inquiry Journal Spring 4-10-2020 Clothing and Power in the Royal World of Catherine of Aragon, Anne Boleyn, and Elizabeth I) Niki Toy-Caron University of New Hampshire Follow this and additional works at: https://scholars.unh.edu/inquiry_2020 Recommended Citation Toy-Caron, Niki, "Clothing and Power in the Royal World of Catherine of Aragon, Anne Boleyn, and Elizabeth I)" (2020). Inquiry Journal. 10. https://scholars.unh.edu/inquiry_2020/10 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Inquiry Journal at University of New Hampshire Scholars' Repository. It has been accepted for inclusion in Inquiry Journal 2020 by an authorized administrator of University of New Hampshire Scholars' Repository. For more information, please contact [email protected]. journal INQUIRY www.unh.edu/inquiryjournal 2020 Research Article Clothing and Power in the Royal World of Catherine of Aragon, Anne Boleyn, and Elizabeth I —Niki Toy-Caron At President Trump’s 2019 State of the Union speech, “the women of the US Democratic party dressed in unanimous white” to make “a powerful statement that the status quo in Washington will be challenged” (Independent 2019). In the 1960s, women burned bras in support of women’s rights. In the late 1500s, Queen Elizabeth I took the reins of England, despite opposition, by creating a powerful image using clothing as one of her tools. These are only a few examples of how women throughout history have used clothing to advance their agenda, form their own alliances, and defend their interests. -
Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe European History Yearbook Jahrbuch Für Europäische Geschichte
Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe European History Yearbook Jahrbuch für Europäische Geschichte Edited by Johannes Paulmann in cooperation with Markus Friedrich and Nick Stargardt Volume 20 Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe Edited by Cornelia Aust, Denise Klein, and Thomas Weller Edited at Leibniz-Institut für Europäische Geschichte by Johannes Paulmann in cooperation with Markus Friedrich and Nick Stargardt Founding Editor: Heinz Duchhardt ISBN 978-3-11-063204-0 e-ISBN (PDF) 978-3-11-063594-2 e-ISBN (EPUB) 978-3-11-063238-5 ISSN 1616-6485 This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 04. International License. For details go to http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/. Library of Congress Control Number:2019944682 Bibliographic information published by the Deutsche Nationalbibliothek The Deutsche Nationalbibliothek lists this publication in the Deutsche Nationalbibliografie; detailed bibliographic data are available on the Internet at http://dnb.dnb.de. © 2019 Walter de Gruyter GmbH, Berlin/Boston The book is published in open access at www.degruyter.com. Typesetting: Integra Software Services Pvt. Ltd. Printing and Binding: CPI books GmbH, Leck Cover image: Eustaţie Altini: Portrait of a woman, 1813–1815 © National Museum of Art, Bucharest www.degruyter.com Contents Cornelia Aust, Denise Klein, and Thomas Weller Introduction 1 Gabriel Guarino “The Antipathy between French and Spaniards”: Dress, Gender, and Identity in the Court Society of Early Modern -
March 2020 —Mountain States Collector Now Open
Like us and Devoted to Antiques, follow us Collectibles, on Furniture, Art, Design Facebook and History. MArCh 2020 EStAbLIShED In 1972 Volume 48, number 3 St. Patrick’s Day Colorado Antique Gallery History and Traditions Celebrates 28 Years With Giant Sale The Colorado Antique Abound Gallery is celebrating its 28th Anniversary in 2020 with a By Bobbie Sweeney month-long sale that runs through the whole month of St. Patrick's Day—a great day for the March. Proudly located in the Irish in America. It is not necessary that City of Littleton at 5501 S. you come from Ireland or that you are Broadway since 1992. With born of Irish parents—everybody 285 vendors located under one suddenly becomes part of the fun- 52,000 square foot roof there loving, hard-drinking Irish culture on are hundreds of thousands of this festive day. Whatever your favorite color hap - fabulous finds on sale during pens to be, it changes to green on St. the month of March. The Patrick's Day. Having an Irish name helps, but Colorado Antique is home to Germans, Italians, Greeks, Chinese and all the rest can have just as many long-time dealers who much fun drinking green beer, eating green food, and wearing green have been in business at the on this special day of the year. Gallery since 1992. Their staff Most cities in the United States have a parade on this day. Busi - is second to none and has a extensive knowledge the art glass, art work and collectibles are always in stock nessmen, churches, schools—everyone enters into the fun of mak - antique industry. -
2017-2018 Updated Fashion Design
Fashion Design The Hoot Addendum #4 This addendum replaces the Fashion Design section (pages 231 – 238) of the 2017-18 The Hoot. Revised December 1, 2017 BACK TO CONTENTS | 231 FASHION DESIGN Innovation in fashion design results from a rigorous process of developing and editing ideas that address specific design challenges. Students in our program work alongside expert, professional faculty and guest mentors, who are current and visible designers, to become educated and practiced in all aspects of the design process. Throughout their experience, students produce original designs and develop collections for their portfolio. In their Junior and Senior year, students have the opportunity to work in teams to create unique designs under the guidance of mentors, emulating professional designers and following the industry's seasonal schedule. Recent mentors for the Junior and Senior class have included Anthropologie, Urban Outfitters, Nike, Roxy, Armani Exchange, BCBG, Trina Turk, Ruben & Isabel Toledo, and Bob Mackie. Junior and Senior designs are featured at the annual Scholarship Benefit and Fashion Show at the Beverly Hilton. FASHION DESIGN WITH AN EMPHASIS IN COSTUME DESIGN Students may choose to pursue an emphasis in Costume Design. With a focus on new directions in character development for film, television, live performance, concept art, and video, students emerge from the Costume Design Emphasis track as relevant, creative professionals prepared for the future direction of this exciting field. Under the guidance of critically-acclaimed costume design professionals and leading costume houses, students will produce original designs and dynamic illustrations, combining traditional and digital methods, for their portfolios. Costume Design mentors have included: Disney, Cirque du Soleil, Theadora Van Runkle, Betsy Heimann, Western Costume, Bill Travilla, and Bob Mackie. -
Liz Falletta ______
Liz Falletta _____________________________________________________________________________________ CONTACT University of Southern California Phone: (213) 740 - 3267 INFORMATION Price School of Public Policy Mobile: (323) 683 - 6355 Ralph and Goldy Lewis Hall, 240 Email: [email protected] Los Angeles, CA 90089-0626 Date: January 2015 TEACHING University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA APPOINTMENTS Price School of Public Policy Associate Professor (Teaching), July 2014 – present Assistant Professor (Teaching), January 2009 – May 2014 Clinical Assistant Professor, July 2007 – December 2008 Lecturer, June 2004 – June 2007 Iowa State University, Ames, IA College of Design, Department of Architecture Visiting Lecturer, January 2003 – May 2003 University of California Los Angeles, Los Angeles, CA School of Architecture and Urban Design Co-Instructor (with Mark Mack), October 2002 – December 2002 Southern California Institute of Architecture (SCI-Arc), Los Angeles, CA Instructor, August 2000 – December 2000 Associate Instructor, June 2000 – August 2000 EDUCATION University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA Master of Real Estate Development, 2004 Southern California Institute of Architecture, Los Angeles, CA Master of Architecture, 2000 Washington University, St. Louis, MO Bachelor of Arts in Architecture, Philosophy Minor, magna cum laude, 1993 COURSES University of Southern California TAUGHT Price School of Public Policy Design History and Criticism (RED 573), Summer 2004 – present Community Development and Site Planning (PPD -
Fashion,Costume,And Culture
FCC_TP_V4_930 3/5/04 3:59 PM Page 1 Fashion, Costume, and Culture Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages FCC_TP_V4_930 3/5/04 3:59 PM Page 3 Fashion, Costume, and Culture Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages Volume 4: Modern World Part I: 19004 – 1945 SARA PENDERGAST AND TOM PENDERGAST SARAH HERMSEN, Project Editor Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages Sara Pendergast and Tom Pendergast Project Editor Imaging and Multimedia Composition Sarah Hermsen Dean Dauphinais, Dave Oblender Evi Seoud Editorial Product Design Manufacturing Lawrence W. Baker Kate Scheible Rita Wimberley Permissions Shalice Shah-Caldwell, Ann Taylor ©2004 by U•X•L. U•X•L is an imprint of For permission to use material from Picture Archive/CORBIS, the Library of The Gale Group, Inc., a division of this product, submit your request via Congress, AP/Wide World Photos; large Thomson Learning, Inc. the Web at http://www.gale-edit.com/ photo, Public Domain. Volume 4, from permissions, or you may download our top to bottom, © Austrian Archives/ U•X•L® is a registered trademark used Permissions Request form and submit CORBIS, AP/Wide World Photos, © Kelly herein under license. Thomson your request by fax or mail to: A. Quin; large photo, AP/Wide World Learning™ is a trademark used herein Permissions Department Photos. Volume 5, from top to bottom, under license. The Gale Group, Inc. Susan D. Rock, AP/Wide World Photos, 27500 Drake Rd. © Ken Settle; large photo, AP/Wide For more information, contact: Farmington Hills, MI 48331-3535 World Photos. -
The Shape of Women: Corsets, Crinolines & Bustles
The Shape of Women: Corsets, Crinolines & Bustles – c. 1790-1900 1790-1809 – Neoclassicism In the late 18th century, the latest fashions were influenced by the Rococo and Neo-classical tastes of the French royal courts. Elaborate striped silk gowns gave way to plain white ones made from printed cotton, calico or muslin. The dresses were typically high-waisted (empire line) narrow tubular shifts, unboned and unfitted, but their minimalist style and tight silhouette would have made them extremely unforgiving! Underneath these dresses, the wearer would have worn a cotton shift, under-slip and half-stays (similar to a corset) stiffened with strips of whalebone to support the bust, but it would have been impossible for them to have worn the multiple layers of foundation garments that they had done previously. (Left) Fashion plate showing the neoclassical style of dresses popular in the late 18th century (Right) a similar style ball- gown in the museum’s collections, reputedly worn at the Duchess of Richmond’s ball (1815) There was public outcry about these “naked fashions,” but by modern standards, the quantity of underclothes worn was far from alarming. What was so shocking to the Regency sense of prudery was the novelty of a dress made of such transparent material as to allow a “liberal revelation of the human shape” compared to what had gone before, when the aim had been to conceal the figure. Women adopted split-leg drawers, which had previously been the preserve of men, and subsequently pantalettes (pantaloons), where the lower section of the leg was intended to be seen, which was deemed even more shocking! On a practical note, wearing a short sleeved thin muslin shift dress in the cold British climate would have been far from ideal, which gave way to a growing trend for wearing stoles, capes and pelisses to provide additional warmth. -
Florence Nelson Kennedy FASHION ILLUSTRATOR
^sp-""* ' Florence Nelson Kennedy FASHION ILLUSTRATOR Pat Kennedy Crump lorence Nelson Kennedy often called herself a "stubborn Swede." Determined would have been a better description. She started to draw at an early age and loved doing it; she ac knowledged that she was an artist and deter Fmined to pursue a career in fashion illustration. At first, she may not have known that this ambition had great potential in her time. In the early decades of the twentieth century, opportunities were plentiful for commercial artists of all types, as advertising and pub lishing depended heavily on illustration, rather than photography. One means of preparing for such a career, espe cially for students who lived far from metropolitan ar eas, was instruction by mail. Universities had proven that home study was an excellent method of training, but it was a new idea in the field of commercial art. The Federal School of Commercial Designing, estab lished in Minneapolis in 1914, was adapted from a thor ough course employed by the Bureau of Engraving, a Minneapolis printing and engraving firm. Early school advertisements drew immediate responses, and the firm's success grew. The school started thousands of artists on successful careers, and Florence Nelson Ken nedy was one of them.' 'Colgate Buckbee, "How An Idea Grew Into the World's Largest Home Study Art School," The Illustrator (Minneapo lis), Winter-Spring 1964, p. 4-5; Joseph G. Almars (son of Joseph Almars, one of the Federal Schools' founders), tele phone interview with the author, Feb. 11, 1992; Minneapolis Star, Jan. 2, 1964, p. -
The War and Fashion
F a s h i o n , S o c i e t y , a n d t h e First World War i ii Fashion, Society, and the First World War International Perspectives E d i t e d b y M a u d e B a s s - K r u e g e r , H a y l e y E d w a r d s - D u j a r d i n , a n d S o p h i e K u r k d j i a n iii BLOOMSBURY VISUAL ARTS Bloomsbury Publishing Plc 50 Bedford Square, London, WC1B 3DP, UK 1385 Broadway, New York, NY 10018, USA 29 Earlsfort Terrace, Dublin 2, Ireland BLOOMSBURY, BLOOMSBURY VISUAL ARTS and the Diana logo are trademarks of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc First published in Great Britain 2021 Selection, editorial matter, Introduction © Maude Bass-Krueger, Hayley Edwards-Dujardin, and Sophie Kurkdjian, 2021 Individual chapters © their Authors, 2021 Maude Bass-Krueger, Hayley Edwards-Dujardin, and Sophie Kurkdjian have asserted their right under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act, 1988, to be identifi ed as Editors of this work. For legal purposes the Acknowledgments on p. xiii constitute an extension of this copyright page. Cover design by Adriana Brioso Cover image: Two women wearing a Poiret military coat, c.1915. Postcard from authors’ personal collection. This work is published subject to a Creative Commons Attribution Non-commercial No Derivatives Licence. You may share this work for non-commercial purposes only, provided you give attribution to the copyright holder and the publisher Bloomsbury Publishing Plc does not have any control over, or responsibility for, any third- party websites referred to or in this book. -
Virginia Viking May 2019
May 2019 Volume 42 No. 14 VIRGINIA VIKING SONS OF NORWAY HAMPTON ROADS LODGE NO. 3-522 President: Leonard Zingarelli Vice President: Mike Solhaug Secretary: June Cooper Treasurer: Ragnhild Zingler The President’s Corner MAY 16, 2019 Membership Meeting at Bayside We are quickly approaching another summer season. Since so Presbyterian Church at 7:30 pm. many of us are away or doing outside activities during the The program is “the First Shot – Norwegians sink the German summer, we always change up our lodge’s routine a little to Heavy Cruiser SMS Bucher. accommodate. For example, we do not hold any business lodge meetings during the summer and suspend our Virginia May 17, 2019 Viking newsletter. Lay Flowers at Forest Lawn Both will resume in September. We do however continue to hold monthly Cemetery at 10:45 am. Membership Lunch at noon at Board meetings that are opened to the general membership. These board Freemason Abbey Restaurant in meeting dates and times can be found on our lodge’s schedule of events. With Norfolk. only a few weeks left in this spring season, the lodge does have several events that you would enjoy. Starting with the Laying of the Flowers at the Forest Lawn May 23, 2019 Cemetery in Norfolk. A remarkable story and how we honor two Norwegian Norwegian National Day Celebration at the Princess Anne sailors that died and buried in Norfolk back during World War Two. We are also Country Club in Virginia Beach. invited to attend the celebration of the Norwegian National Day at Princess Hosted by the Norwegian Nato Anne Country Club. -
Introduction
Introduction One way to understand the ongoing amplification and extension of design is to see how it is being driven by market and societal demand. With a public that is familiar with design thinking and social design, there is a kind of design renaissance today where those who are not necessarily from within the design community see its value. This “pull” that design currently enjoys is evident in several ways: those working in consultancies are adding a more Downloaded from http://direct.mit.edu/desi/article-pdf/36/2/1/1716215/desi_e_00584.pdf by guest on 26 September 2021 balanced approach to traditional business-heavy perspectives at the request of more sophisticated clients; those in corporations are building in-house design capabilities to meet the needs of their internal constituents; and those working in and for non-profits are translating and facilitating authentic insights regarding the underserved who desire to be engaged in more humane and equi- table ways. There is another way that design continues to expand and it is through its own “push” mechanism. It is a healthy sign when a discipline—not seeking to rest on its own laurels—takes on a con- tinuous and collective reflection-in-action. Like the concept of a learning organization, designers are busy pushing beyond their own set of boundaries, approaching design itself as a learning dis- cipline where action and course correction are constantly at play. The authors in this issue, adopting the latter approach to developing design, push themselves and the discipline beyond the status quo. Though they use different terms to describe the idea of incompleteness and the opportunity to expand, their message is uniform: design is but one dimension in our complex world and yet it serves an important function in the shaping of larger wholes. -
Nicolas Lancret: Dance Before a Fountain
NICOLAS LA1VCRET Dance Before a r~zfountain~ NICOLAS LA1VCRET Dance Before a r~Tfountain~ MARY TAVENER HOLMES WITH A CONSERVATION NOTE BY MARK LEONARD THE J. PAUL GETTY MUSEUM LOS ANGELES This book is dedicated to Donald Posner GETTY MUSEUM STUDIES ON ART Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data © 2006 J. Paul Getty Trust Holmes, Mary Tavener. Nicolas Lancret : Dance before a fountain / Mary Tavener Holmes ; Getty Publications with a conservation note by Mark Leonard. I2OO Getty Center Drive, Suite 5OO p. cm. — (Getty Museum studies on art) Los Angeles, California ^004^^-1682 Includes bibliographical references and index. www.getty.edu ISBN-I3: 978-0-89236-83^-7 (pbk.) ISBN-IO: 0-89236-832-2 (pbk.) I. Lancret, Nicolas, 1690—1743- Dance before a fountain. 2- Lancret, Christopher Hudson, Publisher Nicolas, 1690 —1743"Criticism and interpretation. 3- Genre painting, Mark Greenberg, Editor in Chief French — l8th century. I. Leonard, Mark, 1954 ~~ H- Lancret, Nicolas, 1690 — 1743. III. J. Paul Getty Museum. IV. Title. V. Series. Mollie Holtman, Series Editor ND553.L225A65 2006 Abby Sider, Manuscript Editor 759.4-dc22 Catherine Lorenz, Designer 2005012001 Suzanne Watson, Production Coordinator Lou Meluso, Anthony Peres, Jack Ross, Photographers All photographs are copyrighted by the issuing institutions or by their Typesetting by Diane Franco owners, unless otherwise indicated. Figures 14, 16, 18, 29, 3^, 43> 57» 60, Printed in China by Imago 63 © Reunion des Musees Nationaux/Art Resource, New York. Figures 21, 30, 31, 34, and 55 are use<i by kind permission of the Trustees of the Wallace Collection, London. Frontispiece: Michel Aubert (French, 1700 —1757)> Nicolas Lancret [detail], engraving, from Antoine Joseph Dezallier d'Argenville (French, 1680 — 1765), Abrege de la vie des plus fameux peintres (Paris, I745~52)> vol.