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Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018 The Journal of Dress History Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018 Front Cover Image: Textile Detail of an Evening Dress, circa 1950s, Maker Unknown, Middlesex University Fashion Collection, London, England, F2021AB. The Middlesex University Fashion Collection comprises approximately 450 garments for women and men, textiles, accessories including hats, shoes, gloves, and more, plus hundreds of haberdashery items including buttons and trimmings, from the nineteenth century to the present day. Browse the Middlesex University Fashion Collection at https://tinyurl.com/middlesex-fashion. The Journal of Dress History Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018 Editor–in–Chief Jennifer Daley Editor Scott Hughes Myerly Proofreader Georgina Chappell Published by The Association of Dress Historians [email protected] www.dresshistorians.org The Journal of Dress History Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018 [email protected] www.dresshistorians.org Copyright © 2018 The Association of Dress Historians ISSN 2515–0995 Online Computer Library Centre (OCLC) accession #988749854 The Journal of Dress History is the academic publication of The Association of Dress Historians through which scholars can articulate original research in a constructive, interdisciplinary, and peer reviewed environment. The Association of Dress Historians supports and promotes the advancement of public knowledge and education in the history of dress and textiles. The Association of Dress Historians (ADH) is Registered Charity #1014876 of The Charity Commission for England and Wales. The Journal of Dress History is copyrighted by the publisher, The Association of Dress Historians, while each published author within the journal holds the copyright to their individual article. The Journal of Dress History is circulated solely for educational purposes, completely free of charge, and not for sale or profit. The Journal of Dress History is run by a team of volunteers and is published on an Open Access platform distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License, which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is cited properly. Complete issues of The Journal of Dress History are freely available for viewing and downloading at www.dresshistorians.org/journal. The Editorial Board of The Journal of Dress History encourages the unsolicited submission of academic articles for publication consideration on any topic of dress history, textiles, or accessories of any culture or region of the world. Articles and book reviews are welcomed from students, early career researchers, and established professionals. If you would like to discuss an idea for an article or book review, please contact Jennifer Daley, Editor–in–Chief of The Journal of Dress History, at [email protected]. Articles can be submitted any time during the year (except for special themed issues, which have a specific deadline). Articles must be between 4000 words (minimum) and 6000 words (maximum), which includes footnotes but excludes the required 120–word (maximum) abstract, five (minimum) images with captions, the tiered bibliography (that separates Primary Sources, Secondary Sources, Internet Sources, etc.), and 120–word (maximum) author’s biography. The graphic design of The Journal of Dress History utilises the font, Baskerville, a serif typeface designed in 1754 by John Baskerville (1706–1775) in Birmingham, England. The logo of The Association of Dress Historians is a monogram of three letters, ADH, interwoven to represent the interdisciplinarity of our membership, committed to scholarship in dress history. The logo was designed in 2017 by Janet Mayo, longstanding ADH member. The Journal of Dress History The Advisory Board The Editorial Board of The Journal of Dress History gratefully acknowledges the support and expertise of The Advisory Board, the membership of which is as follows, in alphabetical order: Sylvia Ayton, MBE, Independent Scholar, United Kingdom Cally Blackman, MA, Central Saint Martins, United Kingdom Penelope Byrde, MA, FMA, Independent Scholar, United Kingdom Caroline de Guitaut, MVO, AMA, Royal Collection Trust, United Kingdom Thomas P. Gates, MA, MSLS, MAEd, Kent State University, United States Alex Kerr, PhD, FBS, The Burgon Society, United Kingdom Jenny Lister, MA, The Victoria and Albert Museum, United Kingdom Timothy Long, MA, Independent Scholar, United States Jane Malcolm–Davies, PhD, The University of Copenhagen, Denmark Susan North, PhD, The Victoria and Albert Museum, United Kingdom Martin Pel, MA, Royal Pavilion and Brighton Museums, United Kingdom Anna Reynolds, MA, Royal Collection Trust, United Kingdom Aileen Ribeiro, PhD, The Courtauld Institute of Art, United Kingdom Georgina Ripley, MA, National Museums Scotland, United Kingdom Gary Watt, MA, NTF, The University of Warwick, United Kingdom Rainer Wenrich, PhD, Catholic University, Eichstaett–Ingolstadt, Germany Contents Articles The (Saint) Birgitta Schools: Dressmaking and Fashion between Tradition and Renewal in Stockholm, 1910–1935 Maria Carlgren 1 Paintings Undressed: A Sartorial Investigation into the Art of Antoine Watteau, 1700–1720 Axel Moulinier 23 “It Is Not Impossible to Look Nice Sitting about on the Beach:” The Influence of Magazines in the Making and Wearing of Hand–Knitted Bathing Suits by Young Working Women in England during the 1930s Emmy Sale 47 Support and Uplift: How Technology Defined the Bra during the Twentieth Century Lorraine Hamilton Smith 73 The Norwegian Bunad: Peasant Dress, Embroidered Costume, and National Symbol Solveig Strand 100 Feminists in High Heels: The Role of Femininity in Second–Wave Feminists’ Dress in Finland, 1973–1990 Arja Turunen 122 Book Reviews Jay McCauley Bowstead, Menswear Revolution: The Transformation of Contemporary Men’s Fashion Shaun Cole 144 Lesley Ellis Miller, Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion Olga Dritsopoulou 147 Sarah Magill, Making Vintage 1940s Clothes for Women Julie Eilber 150 Peter McNeil, Pretty Gentlemen: Macaroni Men and the Eighteenth–Century Fashion World Alison Fairhurst 153 Eleri Lynn, Tudor Fashion Sidsel Frisch and Rosalind Mearns 156 Javier Irigoyen García, Moors Dressed as Moors: Clothing, Social Distinction and Ethnicity in Early Modern Iberia Laura Pérez Hernández 159 Edwina Ehrman, ed., Fashioned from Nature Madeleine Luckel 162 Andrew Bolton, Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination Alice Mackrell 165 Clare Backhouse, Fashion and Popular Print in Early Modern England: Depicting Dress in Black–Letter Ballads Allison Pfingst 168 Recent PhD Theses in Dress History 171 A Guide to Online Sources for Dress History Research Jennifer Daley 182 The Advisory Board 213 Welcome Dear ADH Members and Friends, I hope you enjoy reading this issue of The Journal of Dress History, Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018, which contains six academic articles and nine book reviews. Included in this issue is a recurring guide, titled, A Guide to Online Sources for Dress History Research. This guide documents online sources that play a role in furthering the academic study of dress history. Additions and suggestions to this guide are warmly encouraged as A Guide to Online Sources for Dress History Research is a living document and will be updated and published in every issue of The Journal of Dress History. The Editorial Board of The Journal of Dress History encourages the unsolicited submission of academic articles for publication consideration on any topic of dress history, textiles, or accessories of any culture or region of the world. Articles can be submitted any time during the year, except for special themed issues, which have a specific deadline. Please note the following deadlines for, and titles of, the next two special themed issues of The Journal of Dress History. 11:59pm GMT, Sunday, 1 December 2019: The Victorian Age: A History of Dress, Textiles, and Accessories: 1819–1901 11:59pm GMT, Tuesday, 1 December 2020: Costume Drama: A History of Clothes for Stage and Screen As always, if you have comments on this issue or an interest in writing an academic article or book review for future publication consideration, please contact me. I look forward to hearing from you! Best regards, Jennifer Daley Chairman and Trustee, The Association of Dress Historians Editor–in–Chief, The Journal of Dress History [email protected] www.dresshistorians.org The Journal of Dress History Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018 The (Saint) Birgitta Schools: Dressmaking and Fashion between Tradition and Renewal in Stockholm, 1910–1935 Maria Carlgren Abstract The Birgitta Schools were two dressmaking schools, based in Stockholm, Sweden, and operated from 1910 to the 1930s. Because of a rift in 1914 between the two directors, Emy Fick and Elisabeth Glantzberg, the original institution was divided into two separate schools. Both retained the “Birgitta” name. This article analyses the two schools, based on visual artefacts, including trademarks, photographs, and garments, while utilising art history, visual studies, gender theory, and cultural sociology methodologies. The aim of this research is to interpret The Birgitta Schools in light of the contemporary discourses of femininity, fashion, and modernity, as a “whirlpool” of different aspects and attitudes that emerged from their work in the contexts of modernisation and the modern. Introduction The Birgitta School [Birgittaskolan], named after the Swedish Saint Birgitta [Bridget] (1303–1373), was a combined dressmaking school and fashion studio that
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